Replaced the stock extruder as it broke and since then every print fails. When printing, it print ok then under extruder and fails. I tried e/steps and flow rates. Slowing print speed, speeding up print speed. I've tried loosing the bolts, and then tightening them. When tight I makes a skipping sounds. When loose it doesn't seems to move much through. Is it the spring? I love this machine and printing things for my children but close to packing it up.
Test the esteps without the bowden tube connected.
Remove the nozzle and Bowden tube from the hot end and look inside for any clogs.
The other arm breaking probably let the plastic sit in the hotend and clog. I'd recommend replacing the nozzle
I removed a potential blockage and replaced the nozzle. Still not printing correctly
The clog is very likely in the heat break. You can order a pack of 5 on Amazon fairly cheap directly from Creality
The tensioner screw on the extruder is too tight.
Also, Guide your filament away from the Z-Axis screw. The might have played a role in some of your issue.
Agreed with everything you said. I personally printed the below design a few years ago and it's been working great ever since. I even downloaded the screw from McMaster Carr and printed that lol
I mounted my extruder on the top rail using this simple bracket. The filament comes down off the spool straight into the extruder and then down to the hotend, no need for a filament guide.
I would need that for a belt driven dual z setup....any ideas where i can find Something like that?
I don't see why this mount wouldn't work the same for dual Z screws, unless I don't understand the question. It's just a bracket that sits on the top rail.
Cause the belt that connects the z-screws would be in the way, will send a pic in evening
Replaced the stock extruder
You did also replace the brass gear?
So I took the filament out and noticed teeth marks all the way down the filament. The teeth on the gear look worn. There is no screw to remove the gear. After a Google and some "tips". Looks like I have a older motor so either a brute force or replace the motor.
There are guides on how to remove the gear from the motor. I reccomend using steel gears as they don't wear down for a really long time. Also your tension on the arm is too tight and that can lead to issues too
so either a brute force or replace the motor.
Replace. The arms are longer on the ones with grub screws too, they're just simply better than the press fit style that you have.
I got a tiny pulley puller from Amazon, and use steel gears now. A new motor cost about the same as the pulley puller. I think I paid about $20 for the one I have and the motor is like $17. I tried heating the gear with a torch while I had the motor wrapped in tinfoil to keep the heat off, and it still would t come off. I didn't get it very hot, though because I was worried about the shaft transferring heat back into it's bearings.
I printed this and it helped me remove many gears from extruder... Works a treat every time and even helps push a new gear on to the right height.
Really easy and useful once you have it.
If you zoom in on the extruder gear, it looks like the teeth are starting to wear away. Can’t 100% tell from the picture but no teeth = no grip = low nozzle pressure
I've replaced the weak spring with an upgraded bed spring, that eliminated my problems.
You should also calibrate your printer if you have replaced the extruder. Just follow Teaching Tech's instructions.
Your filament may be coming in at too much of an angle too.
From this angle I can't tell, but maybe you have the brass toothed gear upside down?
I got this same extruder, and I had to do most of the things other people mentioned. It ended up being several problems for me. I had to (A) replace the spring with a different spring from an assortment of springs I got at a hardware store because the original spring was too long, (B) print a filament guide to decrease the angle the filament was entering the extrurder at because it would occasionally kink, (C) calibrate e-steps. I don't see any ground-up filament around your toothed gear, so I don't think you need to start with (A).
Good luck, I know it's a PITA right now!
Looks like it might unfortunately be one of their pressed gears which in my experience is a major pain in the ass to remove and replace so I just bought a new stepper motor with the proper flat wall on the shaft and gears with the proper screw retainers.
I bought a 2 inch pulley puller, and used some random screw as a spacer to pull the gear off. I think a new motor would be about the same price, though.
Sorry to take so many steps back but what do you mean by tried e/step?
Is your bowden tube properly seated to the bask of the nozzle. Heat up the hot end, pull tube from hotend and loosen nozzle 1/2 to full turn. Push bowden tube back in against the loosened nozzle and replace lock clip then tighten the nozzle.
I just installed the very same one, installed it with everything from the box and was having the same issues. Watched a tutorial and apparently there is meant to be a washer underneath in between the lever and the main base plate. Once i did this it worked fine.
Your tensioner on the arm is wayyy too tight. How exactly do your prints fail? If you're getting filament breakages this is definitely why. It can do a lot of weird stuff.
so i just replaced my "stock" extruder with a bondtech dual gear extruder and ill say this, i wish i could have back all my time trying to figure out extrusion issues on the stock style extruder, the dual gear extruder seems like it will never lose grip on the filament.
I recently did the same thing, replacing the stock extruder for my second ender 3 pro printer. Had the same fixed gear on the motor. I printed a little press with a screw and nut and I removed the gear (I made it myself but there are models online). But surprise... the shaft of the motor is to short and dose not have a D shape. I put the new gear upside down and tighten it with the 2 little screws on the side. But the most important part it was that it was under extruding, becose the gear and the pulley were to close and was a lot of tension and the filament wasn't strait. The gear must be in the center of the full assembly but I noticed that I can slightly change the position of the extruder on top of the motor. I managed to get the proper distance between the gear and the pulley and everything works fine now. I have exactly the same type of extruder.
One more thing, soon I will buy a new motor. I don't like the fact that the shaft is to short and the way that the gear attaches to the round and short one.
I hope it helps.
Edit: I remembered that, in the process, I also changed the spring with a weaker one or a shorter one (this I don't remember) to reduce tension, but I think this didn't matter so much.
You say you removed a clog, but did you cut the Bowden tube perfectly square to resolve the cause of the clog? Because if you print with high temp filament and you get a puddle of molten plastic between the Bowden and the nozzle, and then you print PLA, the higher temp material will stay solid in your hotend and your print will fail
If you have a modded all metal hotend downgrade installed, when you retract, the plastic will get stuck in the heatbreak and cause a clog. So reducing retraction will help if you have an all metal heat break. If not, then cutting your Bowden perfectly square will fix it.
Had the exact same issue earlier this year but with the stock extruder straight out the box. Went through all the steps already recommended by everybody above, but after 2 months of thin walls and clogs in the bowden i gave up and went direct extrude.
r/ender3
r/FixMyPrint
r/ender3
r/ender3
r/ender3
r/ender5plus
r/ender3
r/ender3
r/240sx
r/ender3
r/FixMyPrint
r/FixMyPrint
r/3Dprinting
r/ender3
r/watchrepair
r/beetle
r/e46
r/3Dprinting
r/3Dprinting
r/3Dprinting
r/sewing
r/3Dprinting
r/3Dprinting
r/prusa3d
