Welcome to our guide to things to do in Aberystwyth, the seaside ‘capital’ of rural Mid Wales. It’s an elegant Victorian coastal town, home to a great university and close to some of the most beautiful scenery in Wales.
I’ve been visiting Aberystwyth for over 35 years, and loved the place at first sight. Its mix of Victoriana, student life and superb beaches and mountains nearby quickly seduced me, and it’s somewhere I try to visit whenever I’m within 50 miles of it.
In the first part of my Aberystwyth guide I show you the best things to see in Aberystwyth, before heading out of town to show you the nearby coastline, beaches and the vast empty spaces of the Cambrian Mountains.
Enjoy!
Things To Do In Aberystwyth – An Introduction
Aberystwyth – widely known as Aber – is one of the best seaside towns in Wales and one of the great Victorian seaside resorts of the UK, growing in popularity thanks to the completion of the railway there in 1869.
It has two beaches and is surrounded by spectacular coastal scenery to the north and south.
Aberystwyth’s seafront is wonderful, with fine Victorian architecture, one of the most magnificent buildings in Wales (the Old College), a traditional Pier and the ruins of a medieval castle built by England’s King Edward I.
Aberystwyth is a university town, and during term time its population increases by about 50%. It keeps the town young, and also by far the most cosmopolitan place in rural Mid Wales.
Aberystwyth is a great place to gain an introduction to the Welsh language, which is widely spoken in the town and surrounding area.
It is also a great base for exploring Mid Wales, with the beautiful Cambrian Mountains just a few miles away by car.
These are the must-see sites and best things to do in Aberystwyth:
Aberystwyth North Beach
North Beach Aberystwyth is one of the most popular Cardigan Bay beaches, a wide sloping sand and shingle beach between Constitution Hill and the Pier. It’s the better of the two beaches in Aberystwyth, a great place to spend time at any time of year, but most of all in summer.
Aberystwyth became popular with tourists with the arrival of two railways in 1869. Many of the fine buildings along North Parade, the Promenade, date from this Victorian heyday, when the west Wales coast became accessible to many for the first time.
Aberystwyth South Beach
South Beach is much the quieter of the two beaches in Aberystwyth. It’s on the south side of Castle Hill and is a wide, pebbly beach with great views along the coast. The row of brightly painted houses and B&Bs adds to the seaside feeling of cheer and brightness.
It’s around ten minutes’ walk from South Beach to Aberystwyth Marina, a pleasant sight but far from the most interesting part of town.
Aberystwyth Pier
Royal Pier Aberystwyth is the oldest pier in Wales, a slice of Victoriana from 1865, the year the railway arrived in Aberystwyth. It’s a step back to the late 20th century with its arcade, a mixture of traditional arcade games and the latest in video games. There’s also a fish and chip bar and a restaurant open during the season (usually March to November).
The Pier is also home to thousands of starlings which roost there in the autumn and winter months. The best starling murmurations, which occur around sunset, are usually in November, and again in late February and early March, as winter gradually gives way to spring.
Old College
Aberystwyth Old College – Yr Hen Goleg – is one of the most magnificent buildings in Wales, a neo-Gothic extravaganza on the seafront that brings to mind the Conciergerie in Paris, albeit far more daring and fantastical.
And with an even better setting, on the seafront, making a dramatic sight straight out of a Gothic novel when the sea is stormy.
It was originally intended to be a hotel, and when that fell through it was taken over by the fledgling University of Wales. It was the main building of Aberystwyth University until the 1960s, until the new campus was built on the hill in Penglais, on the outskirts of town.
It’s currently being restored, with a view to it being used as a postgraduate research centre in the future.
Aberystwyth Cliff Railway
The Cliff Railway funicular has been hauling passengers up steep Constitution Hill, at the northern end of Aberystwyth Promenade, since 1896.
It was one of the last additions from Aber’s Victorian era, and at the top you’re rewarded with amazing views along the Ceredigion coast and towards Snowdonia. On a clear day you can also see the tip of the Llŷn Peninsula and Bardsey Island.
The views are just as extensive in the Camera Obscura, another Victorian curiosity, which gives a bird’s eye view of a large part of Mid Wales.
Aberystwyth Castle
The ruins of Aberystwyth Castle are believed to be the fifth fortification on its site. It was built from 1277 by English King Edward I, as part of his Iron Ring of fortresses designed to subdue the Welsh but had to be rebuilt after being sacked by Welsh forces in 1282.
Edward’s second Castle in Aberystwyth may have been built by master military architect James of St George, who was also responsible for the World Heritage Castles in Gwynedd – Caernarfon, Conwy, Harlech and Beaumaris.
It’s a large concentric castle built on a headland between the two Aberystwyth beaches, with parts razed to their foundations but one standing tower remaining, looking out over Cardigan Bay. You can walk around the ruins for free, bring a picnic, sit and watch the sunset, whatever you wish.
Aberystwyth Castle continued to be used until the English Civil War in the 1640s. Before that, Welsh prince Owain Glyndwr captured it from the English in 1404, only to lose it five years later.
During the Civil War King Charles I set up a mint at the Castle, but it was eventually taken by Parliamentarian (Roundhead) forces and the Castle was slighted in 1649.
See Also: The 20 Best Castles In North Wales
Eating Out in Aberystwyth
We’ve eaten at many restaurants in Aberystwyth down the years. I can strongly recommend the restaurant in Gwesty Cymru, the 5-star hotel on the seafront, and also Baravin (pictured), which serves very good Mediterranean food with the occasional Welsh and even Asian twist.
My favourite lunch spot in Aberystwyth is Ultracomida, a Spanish deli and wine merchant on Pier Street.
I haven’t been there yet, but I’ve heard several good things about Mama Fay’s, a Caribbean restaurant on Portland Street.
National Library of Wales
If you have more than a passing interest in Welsh history or culture, than a visit to the National Library of Wales is a must. It’s long been one of my favourite things to do in Aberystwyth.
It’s up on Penglais hill next to the University, and there are free exhibitions on art, history, photography and certain literary works.
You can also register as a reader – for which you’ll need two forms of identification – in order to be able to use the excellent Reading Room.
Ceredigion Coast Path
The Ceredigion Coast path, along with those on Gower, in Pembrokeshire, Gwynedd and Anglesey, is one of the most rewarding sections of the Wales Coast Path.
The Path runs along Aberystwyth seafront, including both beaches, with intriguing sections both to the north and south of the town.
If you only have time for a walk in one direction, I’d suggest heading up north via Constitution Hill, then embarking on a roller-coaster of a walk past two beaches, Wallog and Clarach Bay, before you reach the village of Borth.
The route south of Aberystwyth is one of the quietest parts of the Wales Coast Path that I have walked (and I’ve walked most of it). There aren’t any beaches for quite a few miles, just wild cliff scenery, the occasional swooping seabird and great views in either direction.
Borth and Ynyslas Beaches
Borth is one long straggling street with caravans and holiday homes occupying much of the hill above. The food choice is limited to whatever you can find that goes with chips, but behind the sea wall you’ll find one of the most beautiful – and most mystical – beaches in Wales.
At exceptionally low tides, a petrified forest is revealed, the scattered tree stumps believed to be the remnants of the lost kingdom of Cantre’r Gwaelod.
This kingdom is surrounded by myths – it’s similar to the Atlantis idea – but there’s no question that some land was submerged in the area, and more has been revealed by the storms of the last few years.
Borth beach becomes Ynyslas beach near the northern end of the sands, and this section of the beach is surrounded by gorgeous dunes which are a haven for wildlife and rare orchids.
The Cambrian Mountains
The Cambrian Mountains are the remote upland heart of Mid Wales, and the northern part of them is very close to Aberystwyth. You’ll need a car to reach most of the area, and it’s worth trying to explore even a small part of it to get the full Mid Wales experience.
I have always called it the Empty Quarter of Wales, while others call it the Green Desert. Either way, you’ll have great swathes of it to yourself. I once climbed possibly its most famous mountain on a glorious sunny autumn day and saw just two other souls in eight hours.
Vale of Rheidol Railway
If you’re reliant on public transport, I’d strongly suggest taking a return trip from Aberystwyth to Devils Bridge on the gorgeous Vale of Rheidol Railway. And if you have a car, do the same.
It’s a rail romantic’s dream, a narrow-gauge railway with a steam train chugging and chuffing up through the Rheidol Valley to Devils Bridge, in the heart of the Cambrian Mountains.
The trip is like stepping back in time to the 19th century, with the train and then the sylvan setting of the famous waterfalls on the Afon Mynach. The village gets its name (Pontarfynach in Welsh) from the three bridges which improbably sit one above the other.
It’s one of the best things to do in Aberystwyth, and a return trip only takes around four hours.
Devils Bridge
The trip to Devils Bridge is like stepping back in time to the 19th century, with the train and then the sylvan setting of the famous waterfalls on the Afon Mynach. The village gets its name (Pontarfynach in Welsh) from the three bridges which improbably sit one above the other.
On the way from the station to the falls and bridges (there are separate entrances for each), you pass the Hafod Hotel, which was built in the mid-19th century. If you love Betws-y-Coed in Snowdonia, you’ll fall for this too.
The village is on the edge of the Hafod Estate, a famous landscaped area from the late 18th century. The mansion around which it was laid out is long gone, but there are still plenty of wonderful walks in the woods to enjoy.
Elan Valley
The drive to the Elan Valley is one of the best things to do around Aberystwyth. You could take a short cut there via the Cwmystwyth road, but to better appreciate the Elan Valley drive I’d suggest taking the A44 from Aberystwyth to where it meets the A470 at Llangurig, then head south to Rhayader and turn towards the Elan Valley from there.
The Elan Valley is a series of picturesque reservoirs and dams built to supply the city of Birmingham with water. The scenic drive takes you past all four dams, the most picturesque of which are the Garreg Ddu and Craig Goch dams.
Follow the road around the end of the lake, continuing over the tiny bridge over the river Elan. At the top of the steep hill that follows, you could follow the sign pointing left to the ‘Mountain Road to Aberystwyth’, which takes you to our next location.
See Also: Best Places To Visit In Wales In Autumn
Cwmystwyth
One of my favourite drives in Wales is the continuation of the Elan Valley route, climbing to the head of the Ystwyth valley before descending between steep, bare mountains that are bleak in the rain and gloom, but beautiful in the sunshine.
The village of Cwmystwyth (which means ‘Ystwyth Valley’) is several miles down the valley. Before you reach it, you pass the ruined lead mines that brought this remote place into being. As you descend, the landscape becomes gentler and more lush, eventually becoming the B4574 which takes you through the Hafod Estate to Devils Bridge.
Aberystwyth Noir and Hinterland
Aberystwyth has been the setting for a series of detective novels and a TV crime series, and both have added to interest in the area.
British author Malcolm Pryce wrote a series of six novels set in the town, including Last Tango In Aberystwyth and Aberystwyth, Mon Amour. The main protagonist of this series is Louie Knight, the only private detective in town, who spends his time delving into the (imagined!) criminal netherworld of the town.
Three series of Hinterland, a noir crime drama centred around a troubled detective, Tom Mathias, were shot between 2013 and 2016 around Aberystwyth.
He is a troubled character who tries to solve some murder cases in the area around Aberystwyth, and some of the cinematography is quite reminiscent of Danish noir crime series including The Killing and Borgen.
Hinterland was broadcast in two versions. The Welsh language version, Y Gwyll, was shown on S4C in Wales, while the English version (with some Welsh subtitled scenes) was shown on the BBC.
Strata Florida Abbey
The best-known historic site near Aberystwyth is the evocative ruin of Strata Florida Abbey, near the village of Pontrhydfendigaid.
It was a Cistercian monastery, founded in 1164 in remote country on the edge of the Cambrian Mountains. Its name means ‘Valley of Flowers’, and it’s also known by its Welsh name, Ystrad Fflur.
It had important links with the Welsh princes of Deheubarth, and was captured by rebel prince Owain Glyndwr in 1404. The Abbey was eventually destroyed following Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1539.
Much of Strata Florida was lost, and the most substantial remnant is the beautiful Romanesque west doorway, which probably dates from the late 12th or early 13th century. Some medieval floor tiles have also been preserved, and are under cover in what would have been the south transept of the church.
The neighbouring parish church may well have been built from the stones of Strata Florida Abbey. It’s worth a look inside, and there is also a memorial to medieval Welsh poet Dafydd ap Gwilym under a yew tree in the churchyard.
Cofiwch Dryweryn Graffiti
The most famous graffiti in Wales can be found on the main A487 road about ten miles (16 km) south of Aberystwyth.
Its message is ‘Cofiwch Dryweryn’ – Remember Tryweryn. This refers to a notorious episode in Welsh history when the Tryweryn valley – near Bala in North Wales – was flooded to make way for a reservoir, Llyn Celyn, for the City of Liverpool.
It was authorized by an Act of Parliament, thereby avoiding the need for local consultation, though there were many protests against it.
The village of Capel Celyn was one of a small number of communities where Welsh was the only language used, and its destruction gave rise to widespread discontent and stronger protests in support of the Welsh language.
The graffiti next to the A487 has been there since the 1960s, and it is regularly repainted. The wall has been vandalized several times, and copies of it have been made around Wales to keep reinforcing the message.
See Also: Landmarks In Wales – 58 of the top sights in Wales
New Quay
New Quay (not to be confused with New Quay in Cornwall) is one of the best seaside towns in Wales. It’s 23 miles down the coast from Aberystwyth, four beaches around a long bay with rows of colourful houses strung across the steep hilltop like festive ribbons.
It’s more intimate than Aberystwyth, its two main beaches more sheltered prom the prevailing winds and weather. There are enough things to do in New Quay to stay for a week – it’s the most best place in Wales for dolphin watching, with a resident pod a few miles down the coast.
Otherwise it’s a great day trip from Aberystwyth, full of fish and chip charm and great ice cream to cool you down too.
Aberaeron
Aberaeron is a genteel Georgian planned town between Aberystwyth and New Quay. It was built by Reverend Alban Gwynne, who set about building a port and harbour on the site in 1805.
The town is as colourful as nearby New Quay, but very different in feel. Whereas New Quay is about fish and chips, Aberaeron is about finer food, especially local seafood best enjoyed in the Harbour Master on the quayside. It’s also more of a shopping destination, with some excellent craft shops to explore.
Aberystwyth – A Personal Reflection
The first time I visited Aberystwyth was in January 1989, when two of us accompanied a friend attending an open day at the University of Aberystwyth. It was a cold, grim day with a bone-chilling blast of wind from the north-west.
But Aberystwyth started making a positive impression long before we had reached it – we loved the ‘Elvis Lives’ graffiti on a rock on the A44 road, which is still maintained all these years later.
While my friend attended his open day, my other friend and I spent a couple of hours exploring this seaside town. We stood on the Castle Hill, looking down the Ceredigion coast to the south and the grey outlines of the hills of southern Snowdonia to the north.
“You didn’t apply to come here, did you?”, Friend #2 asked.
“No. It never crossed my mind. They don’t have my course.”
“Same here. But it would be an amazing place to live for a few years.”
“It never crossed my mind,” I repeated. “But I rather wish it had.”
Friend #1 never made it to Aberystwyth – his course was sadly pulled a few months afterwards. But I’ve been back many times, either visiting an old friend who works at the University or with work.
Apart from my friend, I know of many other people who went to Aber to study and ended up staying for good. I even know some families of Aber alumni who decided to up sticks and move there to be near their children as well.
And every time I’ve visited – especially as I sniff the salt of the sea on the breeze – still feels just like that first time.
David Angel is a British photographer, writer and historian. He is a European travel expert with over 30 years’ experience exploring Europe. He has a degree in History from Manchester University, and his work is regularly featured in global media including the BBC, Condé Nast Traveler, The Guardian, The Times, and The Sunday Times. David is fluent in French and Welsh, and can also converse in Italian, German, Portuguese, Spanish, Czech and Polish.
Explore more of my articles on Wales here:
- Wales Bucket List – 40 of the best things to do in Wales
- Things To Do In Barmouth – A Wonderful Seaside Town in Southern Snowdonia
- Things To Do In Portmeirion – Explore the Gorgeous Italianate Fantasy Village In North Wales
- Best Beaches In North Wales – 22 beaches from Anglesey to the Cambrian Coast
- 20 Wonderful Rivers In Wales To Explore