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Stockholm/Södermalm - Wikitravel
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Södermalm is an island-borough in southern Stockholm, known for its rugged terrain, and its diverse shopping and entertainment opportunities. At the western edge, Södermalm is connected to the smaller islands Långholmen and Reimersholme.
Until the 19th century, Södermalm mainly consisted of grazing lands and simple semi rural housing near urban Stockholm. As the railroad was built in 1860, Södermalm became a working-class district, until gentrification in the late 20th century. Some of the pre-industrial architecture remains above Slussen.
Stockolms södra station, a commuter railway station. Several subway stations and bus lines, with Slussen being the busiest station as it connects the red and green subway line as well as several bus lines. Connected to Kungsholmen by the scenic Västerbron ("Western Bridge"), as well as the Old Town and the southern suburbs.
Katarina kyrka, Högbergsgatan 13, +46 8 743 68 00 [1]. Open to the public M-F 11:00-17:00, Sa-Su 10:00-17:00. Katarina kyrka ("Church of Catherine"), named after Princess Catherine, mother of King Charles X of Sweden, can be seen from many parts of central Stockholm from its location on a Södermalm hill. The church was built 1656–1695 and has been rebuilt twice after being destroyed by fires. After the first fire in 1723, the church was given a larger, octagonal tower. Following a new fire in May 1990 which left almost nothing but the external walls, the church was faithfully reconstructed and reopened in 1995. Several notable Swedes are buried in the cemetery. The most well-known is former Foreign Minister Anna Lindh, who was assassinated in 2003.
The northern parts of Södermalm offer some excellent viewpoints with panoramas of the central parts of the city:
Walking eastwards from Slussen up Katarinavägen you will reach the picturesque street Fjällgatan, with a view of Gamla Stan from the east.
Monteliusvägen, a walking path that you reach from Bastugatan (north of T Mariatorget) offers a similar view from the west. Benches and tables offer picnic possibilities.
Skinnarviksberget, a hill further west, close to the Zinkensdamm subway station, is a good option if you prefer cliffs to streets. When exiting the station turn back and head to the north. Walk up a small street to the right and climb the hill. Look for the "Kattenvägen" sign. A great alternative to watch the sun set in summertime.
Transport Museum (Spårvägsmuseet), Tegelviksgatan 22 (Bus 2 from Slussen) [2]. Open M-F 10:00-17:00, Sa-Su 11:00-16:00. Maybe not for everyone, but still entertaining, Spårvägsmuseet is a museum of Stockholm's public transportation. Walking through historical buses and subway cars is quite fun but not enough text is in English.
The Toy Museum, Leksaksmuseet, [3] with model railroads and a Mickey Mouse collection, among other things.
Admission 30 SEK (15 SEK reduced price) for both museums. Unfortunately both of these museums are closed due to a rebuilding project of the block that the museums where located in from industrial estates to apartments. The Transport Museum will open again in autumn of 2020, in Norra Djurgårdsstaden.
Between Slussen and Mariatorget, the Hornsgatan street has a narrow sett-paved side section on the north side, above the main street, nicknamed "Hornsgatspuckeln" ("the Hornsgatan bump") [4], with a lot of galleries. Some examples are the ceramics and glassware gallery blås & knåda (Hornsgatan 26, +46 8 642 77 67, [5]) Konsthantverkarna (Sodermalms torg 4, +46 8 611 03 70, [6]) and Grafiska Sällskapet ("The Swedish Printmakers' Association", Hornsgatan 6, +46 8 643 88 04, [7]).
Tantolunden is a big park, known for its quaint allotment gardens, and its beach. Crowded during summer. Good for outdoor games. Also contains a miniature golf course.
Fotografiska, the Swedish Museum of Photography [8], is a private museum opened in 2010, in an industrial building from 1906. Besides the exhibitions, they have a diner with a great waterfront view.
Stockholm City Museum, Stockholms stadsmuseum, [9].
Almgrens sidenväveri[10], a silk workshop, still operating 19th century machinery.
Scenic walk along the water from Eriksdalsbadet (T Skanstull) to Tantolunden (T Hornstull).
The island Långholmen (T Hornstull) has several good spots for swimming, including a small sandy beach.
Eriksdalsbadet, Hammarby Slussväg 20 (T Skanstull), +46 8 508 40 258 [11]. Offers both indoor and outdoor Olympic-size swimming pools.
Hammarby[12] plays their bandy home games at Zinkensdamms IP, Ringvägen 16 (T Zinkensdamm), on Södermalm.
Midnattsloppet[13] is a 10 km night-time running event held annually in mid-August on the streets of Södermalm. There is plenty of live music and other entertainment along the course, creating a party vibe that draws huge numbers of spectators. 2016: August 13th.
Victoria, Götgatan 67 (T Medborgarplatsen). Situated on the lively Götgatan street, this beautiful 1930s theatre screens a broad variety of Hollywood blockbusters as well as old classic movies ranging from the birth of cinema and onwards.
Rio, Hornstulls strand 3 (T Hornstull). Amidst the bars of the Hornstull district, this charming independent theatre, arranges screenings of movies of all sorts - from 3D-features to festivals of low-budget shorts.
Södermalm contains many stores for alternative, vintage and second-hand fashion.
Götgatsbacken, the northernmost section of Götgatan on Södermalm, is perhaps best known for its nightlife, but also has lots of clothes stores with different profiles, including a new, small shopping centre called Bruno.
The SoFo district [14], the "cleverly" rebranded area south of eastern Södermalm's Folkungagatan, has lots of designer clothes and design shops, as well as cafés and restaurants.
Ringen, Ringvägen 100 (T Skanstull), [15]. Open M-F 10:00-19:00, Sa 10:00-18:00, Su 12:00-17:00. Fashion, home decor, restaurants and more.
Skrapan, Götgatan 78 (T Skanstull/T Medborgarplatsen) [16]. A rather small shopping centre, opened in 2007, with a number of fashion stores and a rather diverse collection of other shops, in part geared towards the students living in the skyscraper on top.
Bruno, Götgatan 36 (T Slussen). A very small indoor shopping centre with a handful of fashion stores focusing on street wear.
Sneakersnstuff, Åsögatan 124, +46 8 743 03 22, [17]. Open M-F 11:00-18:30, Sa 11:00-17:00, Su 12AM-4PM. Passionate about sneakers, this store has a huge assortment of contemporary and classic designs, including limited-range models.
Boutique Sportif, Kocksgatan 60 A (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 411 12 13, [18]. Open M-F 11:30-18:30, Sa 11:00-17:00. Somewhat odd shop with a large number of very hip and rather expensive street wear brands.
Sivletto, Malmgårdsvägen 16-18 (T Skanstull), +46 8 643 39 72[19]. Open Tu-Th noon-7PM, F noon-6PM, Sa noon-4PM. Going through a rather anonymous door on a silent back street, down a spiral staircase leading down into a dimly lit cellar, it is hard to believe you're on the right track. But when you step down, you will find yourself in the midst of a fascinating celebration of American 1950’s culture. Retro and vintage clothes, but also a lot of other stuff from the era, as well as a hairdresser and a café. Well worth a visit just for a look around.
Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, Bondegatan 46 B (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 642 80 55 [20]. Traditional tailoring, modern designs, mostly in black and white.
Nakkna, Tjärhovsgatan 3 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 615 29 50 [21]. Sophisticated young fashion in low-key colors.
Lisa Larsson, Bondegatan 48, second hand store.
Beyond Retro, Brännkyrkagatan 82, second hand store.
Stockholms Stadsmission, Skånegatan 75, second hand store.
Emmaus, Götgatan 14, second hand store.
Myrorna, Götgatan 79, second hand store.
Judiths, Hornsgatan 75, second hand store.
La Principessa, Rosenlundsgatan 1, second hand store.
Pet Sounds Records, Skånegatan 53 (T Medborgarplatsen) [22]. A record store with independent pop, alternative rock and other genres of music with more cred than chart placements. A real institution among Stockholm's music fans.
Multi Kulti, S:t Paulsgatan 3 (T Slussen), +46 8 643 61 29 [23]. A small but well-stocked music store specialising in the genres popularly called "world music", with welcoming and knowledgeable staff.
Tio gruppen/Ten Swedish designers, Götgatan 25 (T Slussen) [24].
Coctail, Skånegatan 71 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 642 07 40, and Cocktail Deluxe, Bondegatan 34 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 642 07 41 [25]. Open M-F 11:00-18:00, Sa 11:00-16:00, Su (generally) noon-4PM. Two rather eccentric sister stores with a collection of colourful household items and other stuff. Good for small gifts.
Some places focus only on coffee, others offer a food menu too. Many of these are great places for fika.
Drop Coffee, Wollmar Yxkullsgatan 10 (T Mariatorget). Arguably the best coffee in Stockholm. 3rd-wave style with single-origin pourovers, etc. Modern Nordic design with a comfortable environment. Coffee-focused, with some pastries.
Cafe Blå Lotus, Katarina Bangata 21 (T Medborgarplatsen or Skanstull). Great for lunch and a coffee. Homey decor.
Fabrique, four locations in Södermalm including Rosenlundsgatan 28 (T Mariatorget). Bakery with the best kanelbulle (cinnamon rolls). Many locations all around the city.
Johan & Nyström, many locations including Swedenborgsgatan 7 (T Mariatorget). Very hip space with modern minimalist decor. Great coffee, try the espresso tonic if you're out for something funky. Coffee-focused, with some pastries.
il Caffè, many locations including Södermannagatan 23 (T Medborgarplatsen or Skanstull). Cozy, good coffee.
Kaffe, Sankt Paulsgatan 17 (T Slussen). Espresso bar.
Cafe Rival, Mariatorget 3 (T Mariatorget). A nice café, which like the hotel next door is owned by Benny Andersson of ABBA fame. (You won't find any traces of ABBA in the place, though.)
Skåningen Kaffebar, Skånegatan 12 (T Medborgarplatsen). Very good coffee with excellent personal service. Small outdoor service where you can smoke.
Cafe Helgalundens Korta Varor, Grindsgatan 35 (T Skanstull). Extraordinarily good coffee and sandwiches. Not to mention the service. They also carry a good selection of Swedish indie music, some truly hard-to-find DVD's and a few freshly printed T-shirts. All of it is sold at very affordable prices.
Fåfängan - Café and Restaurant at the top of Klockstapelsbacken (Buses from T Slussen to Londonviadukten) [26]. A café close to the eastern tip of Södermalm with a good view of the city. Music some days during lunchtime.
Vurma, Bergsunds strand 31 (T Hornstull) [27]. Also on Kungsholmen and in Vasastan.
String, Nytorgsgatan 38 (T Medborgarplatsen or Skanstull) [28]. WiFi access.
Muggen, Götgatan 24 (T Slussen), ☎ 08-641 14 15, [x]. A mainstream café with modern design in a central Södermalm location.
At Medborgarplatsen there are several food wagons featuring street food from Greek to Polish. One can get fried calimari pita bread for SEK 35 with a drink. Kabbas, Falafa, bratwurst, Polish sausages are all under SEK 50, walking south on Skaraborgsgatan towards Globen are several more budget-priced kabba places.
Jerusalem Kebab, Götgatan 59, a very simple kebab bar, with great value for small money.
Chutney Bar & Matsal, Katarina Bangata 19, offers a choice of vegan dishes for 88 SEK. Self-service salad, water, fruit tea and chutneys are free. Often quite packed but it's normal to share a table with strangers here.
Folkets kebab, Hornsgatan 92 (T Zinkensdamm), and Folkungagatan 62 (T Medborgarplatsen), both on Södermalm. Very nice kebab shops. The buffet at Medborgarplatsen (open 11:00-19:00) is great, 69 SEK.
Creperie fyra knop, Svartensgatan 4 (T Slussen), +46 8 640 77 27. Open 5-11PM. Authentic French-speaking crêpes/galettes place. The place is often crowded and the service can be very French, in all senses of the word, but the food is excellent. Booking recommended. Mains 70-92 SEK.
Nystekt Strömming, Södermalmstorg, in the square (T Slussen). Typical Swedish food, difficult to find elsewhere. Fried herring in all variants, e.g. with mashed potato. Just a small stand, outside the northern exit of the Slussen subway station. Very good and quite famous! Open 11:00-18:00 in the summer, 11:00-15:00 in winter. 75 SEK for a plate with mashed potatoes, fried herring and three sides.
Health Bar & Café, Repslagargatan 16 (T Slussen). This small and rather anonymous restaurant serves surprisingly good budget Asian food, with a healthy profile. No alcoholic beverages. Closes at 19:00.
Holy Cow[29], Ringvägen 87 (T Skanstull). Great Indian food, friendly staff.
FLFL Levantine Kitchen[30], Skånegatan 87, (T Medborgarplatsen). Simple restaurant with a nice vibe that offers houmous, falafel and other staples from the eastern parts of the Mediterranean. Serves alcohol! Generous opening hours (for Stockholm). Not a fast food joint.
Pelikan, Blekingegatan 40 (T Skanstull), +46 8 556 090 90 (Reservations +46 8 556 090 92). (See also the "drink" section). Offers a small selection of Swedish dishes (including the famous Köttbullar (meatballs)). The selection changes according to the season. The food is excellent and very good value for the money.
Urban Deli Nytorget, Nytorget 4 (T Medborgarplatsen) Inventive modern Scandinavian for brunch, lunch, dinner. Also has a small grocery store/deli and coffee.
Meatballs for the People, Nytorgsgatan 30 (T Medborgarplatsen). Arguably the best Swedish meatballs in Stockholm.
Hermans, Fjällgatan 23 (T Slussen), +46 8 643 94 80 [31]. Sumptuous weekend vegetarian buffet (theme changes weekly) followed by delicious coffees, teas, and desserts (140-190 SEK depending on beverage/dessert choice). The view over Stockholm is amazing, go there at sunset and sit on the back terrace. They sometimes have live entertainment.
Ai Ramen, Erstagatan 22 (T Medborgarplatsen / Bus 2 or 66 to Erstagatan). Hip ramen spot.
Mormor Dumplings, Bondegatan 58, Lovely little dumpling place in Södermalm. Very authentic Hot Pots and popular among the Chinese community of Stockholm. 10 dumplings for 105 kronar, in a hot pot 119. Mixed, meat or vegetarian.
Omnipollos Hatt, Hökens gata 1A (T Slussen). Unique craft beers and pizza, do great vegan pizza.
Bleck, Katarina Bangata 68 (T Skanstull). Good beer and food.
Pane Vino, Brännkyrkagatan 93 (T Zinkensdamm. Great pizza.
Barbro, Hornstulls strand 13 (T Hornstull). Trendy place offering a combination of Japanese bistro & happening bar, plus an art-house cinema.
Svejk, Östgötagatan 35 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 641 33 66 [32]. On the cheap end of mid-range, this friendly, cozy and unpretentious Czech restaurant serves Central European fare and a wide selection of Czech beer. Great value for money.
Ho's, Hornsgatan 151 (T Hornstull), +46 8 844420. While Stockholm has a fair number of cheap Chinese restaurants, most serve a rather bland and watered-down version of the most popular "westernized" staple dishes. While the competition is not all that fierce, Ho's stand out as a quality choice, with a wide selection of dishes with more spice and taste.
Koh Phangan, Skånegatan 57 (T Medborgarplatsen) [33]. Authentic Thai restaurant with great food. Booking recommended.
Nem Nem Quán, Åsögatan 90 (T Medborgarplatsen), +46 8 641 94 47. Excellent and decently authentic Vietnamese food. Cheap lunch offers. Booking recommended.
Gondolen, Stadsgården 6 (T Slussen), +46 8 641 70 90, [34]. Gondolen is a fancy and expensive restaurant run by the famous chef Erik Lallerstedt, in the peculiar 1930s elevator building Katarinahissen. There is an inexpensive branch named Köket in the same premises where you can eat the best of Swedish cuisine for considerably less than in the main dining room, although you'll miss out on the fabulous view of the city. Dress code may apply! Mains in main dining room 185-300 SEK, tasting menu 650 SEK.
Södermalm is full of pubs, and the main nightlife street is Götgatan. Occasionally, people go for a pub crawl along Götgatan, having one drink at each bar; without any chance to finish off the whole street in one evening. In weekend nights, most bars along the street get crowded, but there are many hangouts in the rest of the island.
Akkurat, Hornsgatan 2 (T Slussen). Friendly English-style pub offering good food, real ale, plenty of beers from all over the world as well as 450 different whiskies. A place where younger and older drinkers meet.
Bishop's Arms. Warm and cosy English-style pubs offering good food, real ale and other beers from around the world. Live jazz music Wednesday evenings. Although this chain runs 25 pubs in Sweden, they all have a pleasant atmosphere, notable for the absence of loud music.
Bellmansgatan 10 (T Mariatorget)
Folkungagatan 105 (T Medborgarplatsen)
Debaser Strand, Hornstulls strand 4 (T Hornstull) [35]. Stockholm's premier rock club. The name of the place was taken from an old song by The Pixies, and many of the bands that play there know the Pixies discography by heart, but they also have other types of music there than alternative rock.
Indigo, Götgatan 19 (T Slussen), +46 8 643 58 59. A really small bar with an eclectic colour scheme, usually drawing a rather young crowd. This is a good place to start the evening.
Oliver Twist, Repslagargatan 6 (T Slussen). Warm and cozy English-style pub offering good food, real ale, and other beers from around the world.
Södra Teatern Bar, Mosebacke Torg 1-3 (T Slussen). Open Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, this very relaxed and stylish bar offers a marvellous view of Stockholm from its lounge. Be sure to come before 23:00 to get seats offering the best view.
Mosebacke Etablissement, Mosebacke Torg 3 (T Slussen), +46 8 556 098 90. In the same building as the Södra Teatern theatre and bar, this is a laid-back restaurant, bar and music venue. In the summer, its large beer garden with a panoramic view is extremely popular with Stockholmers and tourists alike. Indoors, you will find lots of clubs and live music in a wealth of genres, including brunches with live jazz on weekends 10:30-03:00.
Medborgarplatsen is a major nightlife hub. The outdoor seats are immensely popular during the warm seasons. The backstreets, such as Östgötagatan, are more calm.
Trädgården, Hammarby slussväg 2, (T Skanstull) is a summer-only open-air nightclub, that is well worth a visit.
Carmen, Tjärhovsgatan 14, T Medborgarplatsen. Cheap beer, pub grub, and a lot of young broke hipsters at this Södermalm bar.
Gröne Jägaren, Götgatan 64, T Medborgarplatsen. Cheap beer since 1692 and karaoke. There are several other places in the hood and you will probably find a seat.
Kelly's, Folkungagatan 49, T Medborgarplatsen. Cheap beer, cider and shots for as little as 24 SEK each. Minimum age of 23 to enter. Hard rock music and poor acoustics. You will blend in well if you wear black leather and tattoos.
Vampire Lounge[36], Östgötagatan 41, T Medborgarplatsen. A small basement bar with atmospheric Gothic furnishing. Great cocktails. Gets crowded at weekend nights.
Kvarnen, Tjärhovsgatan 4, T Medborgarplatsen, +46 8 643 03 80. A beer hall with old traditions. Popular with fans of the football club Hammarby IF. In recent years this place has expanded, adding more modern, trendy bars in adjoining rooms. Has a wide selection of beers and food at decent prices.
Och himlen därtill, Götgatan 78, T Medborgarplatsen, +46 8 660 60 68, [37]. Open M-Th 18:00-01:00, F-Sa 18:00-03:00. Once upon a time, the landmark skyscraper on Götgatan housed the offices of the Swedish Tax Agency. After major renovations, the building reopened in 2008, transformed into the unlikely combination of a small shopping mall, student apartments and, on the 25th and 26th floors, an exclusive-looking sky bar and restaurant offering visitors one of the most spectacular panoramas over the city. Enter from inside the Skrapan shopping center.
Pelikan, Blekingegatan 40, T Skanstull, +46 8 556 090 90 (Reservations +46 8 556 090 92). An old style working-class beer hall with a very authentic feeling, for those traditionalists who think Kvarnen has sold out in recent years. High noise level but quite a friendly crowd. Also offers simple and authentic Swedish food at a reasonable price.
Scandic Malmen, T Medborgarplatsen. A hotel bar with several rooms, good for large groups.
Söderkällaren (Former BZ, Indian Star), Tjärhovsgatan 12 (T Medborgarplatsen). Cheap beer and reggae music.
Thai Boat[38], Östgötagatan 100, (T Skanstull). An outdoor boat bar, for fans of Thailand.
Baras (T Medborgarplatsen). A chain of bars/clubs around Medborgarplatsen. All are good spots for cheap beer, but they can get quite crowded during weekends.
Big Ben[39], Folkungagatan 97, (T Medborgarplatsen). Stereotypical English pub, best known for its stand-up comedy club, with free-entrance shows in English every Thursday on 20:00. Live music at weekend nights.
Acco Hostel, Ansgariegatan 10, [40] ([email protected]). Free bed linen and towels, free access to computers with Internet connection in the lobby, free WiFi access in all rooms, free access to washing machine and dryer, free tea and coffee, free luggage storage room, 24/7 security observation.
Skanstulls vandrarhem, Ringvägen 135 (T Skanstull), ([email protected]) [41]. You don't require a STF card at Skanstulls vandrarhem but the prices are still cheap and the standard is higher than the STF hostels. And compared to the STF hostels, this is more flexible. Skanstulls hostel opened in May 2007 and is a clean and central hostel. Very close to popular SoFo. Book in advance since it is almost always fully booked.
Långholmen, Långholmsmuren 20 (T Hornstull), ([email protected]) [42]. Spectacular hostel built in an old prison where you actually stay in the old cells (making them limited to the size). The place is clean and the staff is nice and friendly. The atmosphere is really one of a kind. It is also a hotel and the breakfast buffet holds top-standard and costs 75SEK . They have a guest kitchen, internet terminals, washing machine/dryer, and there are a lot of green areas and bathing opportunities around. Subway stop is about 7 minutes by walk.
Zinkensdamm, Zinkens väg 20 (T Zinkensdamm), , [43]. Very nice and fairly big youth hostel and hotel. It is very clean, the staff is helpful and friendly, however the rooms are rather small. Features a fairly big guest kitchen, a nice garden, Internet terminals, and laundry machine/dryer.
Gustaf af Klint, Stadsgårdens Kajplatser 153 (T Slussen), [x]. A boat-hostel with hotel-standard cabins.
Den Röda Båten/The Read Boat[44] (T-Slussen) is a boat-hostel. The boat was launched in 1914.
Rygerfjord at Söder Mälarstrand (T Mariatorget): A decommissioned diesel passenger ship, transformed to a hostel/hotel, with rooms at different price levels. [45]
Clarion Hotel Stockholm, Ringvägen 98 (T Skanstull) [46]. Ideal location, with lots of restaurants, a walkway along the water, and a laid-back vibe all just outside the hotel's door. Huge hotel with over 500 rooms, but the friendly staff ensure that guests feel welcomed, and there's personalized touches to be had, such as automatic checkout via email and free internet.
Hilton Slussen, Guldgränd 8 (T Slussen) [47]. International business hotel with an excellent view of the Old Town and the City Hall. Sleek and modern hotel, with professional, English speaking staff. Tremendous amount of choice from fresh fruit, to cereals, fresh waffles, pancakes, pastries for breakfast. Be sure to check out the interesting wood work displayed all around the hotel, various wood types are entwined with interesting room features.
Hotel Rival, Mariatorget 3 (T Mariatorget) [48]. Owned by a former member of ABBA, Benny Andersson, who has restored a 1930's Art Deco red velvet cinema into a hip, elegant, and comfortable hotel. Personable staff abound, and patrons enjoy tasteful decor and bright, albeit small rooms with comfortable beds and good linens. Lobby and restaurant are trendy without being overbearing and the hotel faces a very charming city square with garden and fountain.
Nightlife in Medborgarplatsen usually gets wild. During weekend nights, a police van is parked at the square, with the primary mission task to resolve drunk brawls. Closing time (01:00 and 03:00) are worst.
The welfare services at Mariatorget attract homeless and disadvantaged people, some with mental illness or drug addiction. However, these people rarely cause trouble.
