South African Safari

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Were you on our Safari? If so, click [HERE] for group photos.

Friday September 13, 2013

Not a lot of excitement today, both of us working all day, although getting away a little early we were both twiddling our thumbs by 4.30 due to being so organised. Our flight is with South African Airlines direct to Johannesburg, departing at 11.50pm.� Sarah took us to the airport where we did what everyone does-WAIT.

Saturday September 14, 2013

As far as flight were, it was not terrible as we slept half of the journey and watched movies for the rest.� An interesting fact though, because of turbulence and poor weather the pilot takes an alternate route which takes us down to latitude 50-he tells us that if it wasn�t night we should have seen icebergs!!!

We arrive at Johannesburg at 06:00am which sounds great being 6 hours later, unfortunately there is a time difference of 6 hours behind which means it was a 12 hour flight!� Once we are through customs, we wait again for our next flight onto Victoria Falls.

This flight is only 1 hour and 40 mins.

Our Victoria Falls get away doesn�t start well!!� Our driver is not at the airport so we catch a taxi to the Drifters Lodge where we are met by Bev-the manager.� She is lovely but gives us the bad news about our tour on Sunday.� As we haven�t had our yellow fever vaccination for Zambia, we may not be allowed back into South Africa so that trip is off the table.� Bev is very helpful and arranges a game drive for us tomorrow.

We also had a river cruise booked but 15 minutes after our pick-up time we rang and found out they had us down for the following night, unlike our itinerary, but we move on as we head off to town and within minutes spot 2 warthogs (Pumba) who look scary but have no interest in us.� We went to a local restaurant called Mama Africa for dinner and after the flights we are tired so we are in bed by 19:00-Robert is asleep by 19:02!!!!!!!!!!.� We are both a little overwhelmed with the thought of actually being in Africa.

Sunday September 15, 2013

Up early to be collected at 06:15 for our game drive.� Our driver/guide is Orpheus (who actually says (Hakuna Matata) takes us 20 km out of town to the Stanley Livingstone Private Game Reserve.� The chances for seeing game seems good as before we have even left the town we see a troop of baboon.� The reserve is a fenced 6000 hectare dedicated to preserving the African wildlife.� Within a very short time we see a herd of kudus (deer) and then we stop to allow a herd of buffalo cross the road.� Orpheus tells us that buffalo kill more people in Africa than any other animal.� Also they actively seek out and kill lion cubs-a sort of preventative measure to reduce the predator numbers.

Next we travel to a ranger station where we are fortunate to see 7 BLACK rhinos which are part of the breeding program in the park.� Most stay at a distance but one big bull comes right up to me in the vehicle-spellbinding. Next we head off to look for the big cats but although Orpheus points out lots of spoor we do not see any.� As we are heading back the last sighting we have is a young giraffe busily having breakfast.

Back in town and we decide to take a helicopter flight over the falls.� The flight takes 15 minutes and gives us a stunning view of the Falls, Zambezi river and the river valley.� Robert sees a herd of elephants as an added bonus.

At 15:45 we are picked up again for a sunset cruise along the Zambezi River.� The River is ~2700 km long and is the only African river to empty into the Indian Ocean.� Within 10 minutes from setting out we see hippos quickly followed by sightings of warthogs, various birds and one lonely big lizard. An American asked one of the staff if that is the biggest croc we would see and was told with a completely straight face in all seriousness-�Sir that is a lizard not a crocodile�. Add to this a sunset of incredible deep pink beauty which invokes all the magic of Africa.

Monday September 16, 2013

Today is our last day in Victoria Falls and to finish our short break here we are taking a walking tour to-you guessed it �The Victoria Falls-known as Mosi-oa-Tunya (The smoke that thunders) by the locals.� The gorge formed by the water and falls marks the boundary of Zimbabwe and Zambia.� Today our guide is Fifo who collects us at 08:00.� Once at the Falls he gives a short talk on the history and facts and we set off.� The walk is 1700 metres with 16 viewpoints and will take about 2 hours-depending on Robert�s photo stops.� Our first stop is the statue of David Livingstone-the first European to see the falls although he never actually came to the Zimbabwean side.� Next is Devils Cataract so named because it was believed by the missionary�s that devil worship was practised at this point.� Next is a spectacular view of the Falls where we are sprayed with fine mist which is good luck.� At each stop Robert takes photos from every imaginable angle particularly at point 10 known as Rainbow Falls where the Falls plunges dramatically 108 metres into the gorge with a rainbow forming.� The last view point is the bridge joining the two countries.� It was designed by Cecil Rhodes (Rhodesia was named for him until it became Zimbabwe after Independence) in 1903 but he didn�t live to see it completed in 1905.� There is where the bungy jumping takes place and while we were there a guide with a group of French tourists told them (my French is a little rusty) that mostly it was the crazy Australians who jump here.�

On our way out we see a performance of African dancers who are happy to have a photo with them.� Our last stop is an ancient Boab Tree which is estimated to be between 1000 and 1500 years old.

Once back at the lodge we pack up and wait for our transfer to the airport for our flight back to Johannesburg before the start of our Safari.

Tonight after a BBQ and briefing with Zane (our guide and driver) and the other travellers we are in bed early for a 05:00 wake up.� There are 6 from Belgium, 4 from Switzerland, 2 from the Netherlands, 1 each from Norway and Germany.� We are the only 2 from an English speaking country.� Robert has been struggling with the side effects of the malaria tablets and has a fairly ordinary night.

Tuesday September 17, 2013

After an early breakfast we are off.�� As we travel out of Johannesburg we pass through suburbs similar to any city in the world teeming with the trappings of civilisation-Woolworths, KFC and Harcourts real estate. Within an hour we are part of the longest traffic jam I have ever seen.� Luckily the highway soon clears and is bordered on both sides by farmland-superficially similar to our wheat belt in early summer.� Today we are travelling to a private reserve which will take most of the day. Along the way we stop at several Photo points (Robert will be in heaven).

As we climb steadily the scenery changes to low scrubby bush dissected by huge electrical pylons and occasionally passing medium size towns.� Our first stop is a town called Belfast which is famous for fly fishing.� After leaving Belfast the scenery changes to lightly wooded rolling hillsides as we climb higher into the Drakensberg Ranges.� Many of the towns we pass are very quaint and would fit into any Alpine country-steep roofs and painted window boxes.� Our lunch stop is a small town called Pilgrims Rest which has the first of many small markets-and so the SHOPPING BEGINS!!!!!!!� After lunch we head to Blyde Canyon to view the Burchill Potholes. These are formed by the sand and river water over eons.� Two rivers meet at this point-one called Treur (Tears of Sadness) and the other Blyde (Happiness).� Zane tells us that this is the 3^rd largest canyon in the world.� Next we travel to view the 3 Rondawals-a group of rock formations resembling rondavels (round bush huts).� Here the scenery is similar to our Karajini Gorges-red, grey and brown striped rock faces.

Our last stop is the Drifters Lodge where we will be spending the next 2 nights-on the dirt road into the preserve we see eland, buffalo and a LIONESS! About 30 meters behind our vehicle walking away, as it was dusk and walking away a photo was not possible, first miss.

If Jo�burg was teeming the lodge is the total opposite-small permanent tent blending perfectly with the surroundings.� The view is amazing wherever you are-miles of African bush extending away into the horizon.� After a local stew called potjie we sit around a camp fire.� I headed back to our tent to get a jumper and am startled by a hyena which causes this brave Noni to run like crazy back to Robert-my hero.� Another early night listening to the sounds of the African Bush.

Wednesday September 18, 2013

After breakfast we set off on an early morning game walk.� Our guides are Zane, Carl and Joseph.� We will be looking for the Small Five-and we soon have found the ant-lion (an ant eating bug).� Along the way Joseph points out and tells us about the flora-and who eats it, where it grows and what it is traditionally used for.� One tree, the buffalo thorn, has long spindly branches loaded with spines.� When buffalo are threatened by a lion they back in under this bush, due to their skin being thicker, it does not penetrate the buffalo therefore escaping the lion.� It also has a large part to play in traditional life when a family member dies far from home.� When this happens one of the family takes a branch to wherever the body is and sweeps it with the branch to collect the soul.� Once back at the village it is offered to a baby goat and if it eats the leaves then the soul is within.� Thereafter whenever there is a celebration, food and drink are set out for the departed also.� Another important tree for the locals is the marula tree.� Each family has one which they believe houses their ancestors so they take their problems to the tree.�� We are joined by a small group in a 4wd who tell us that there are lions in the area.� Our guides now are on alert and we walk as quietly as possible for such a large group.� Although we see more tracks we are not lucky enough to see the pride-bummer, but we do spot a Lioness walking up a track away from us, about 50 meters away, although quite excited, there were further thoughts that we were on foot, as we were on high alert, no photos were permitted at that time, second miss!

Back at the lodge we freshen up and wait.� From the Communal Room veranda we are soon rewarded with Zebra and Impala not too far off coming to drink at a small water hole. Later right next to the wall a vervet monkey entertains us.� Robert�s big lens is a big hit bringing the animals up close and personal. During the rest period the property manager in Robert comes out-he thinks someone should cut down the trees as they are spoiling his camera view!!!� This afternoon activity is a four and a half hour game drive, the wildlife-impala and several varieties of birds (including Zazu).� At a water hole we see the iconic African scene-buffalo, impala and elephants all together.� Further along a dry river course we see a large herd of buffalo ambling along with ox pecker birds perched in prime position along their backs.� Soon we come across a herd of impala and a large troop of baboon.� Zane tells us that although the baboon will occasionally take a young impala the herd still find it safer to be in the baboon territory.� It seems a lion will think twice about taking on a troop of defensive baboon.� We also see a rhino, gnu, giraffe and small deer.

At sunset we stop for a sundowner and again Africa�s sunset is stunning in orange and pink- reminiscent of every doco seen.� Zane takes a group photo and then we are off to see more game with a spotlight.� In short order we come across an elephant family, more small deer and in a tree a large eagle.� We catch a glimpse of a bush baby but he is too quick to photograph.� Although we once again don�t see the elusive lion the drive has been filled with wonder.

Back at camp with have a braai (BBQ) dinner and off to bed.

Thursday September 19, 2013

After a 6:00 breakfast we are off to Hazyview Lodge-our next campsite along the Sabi river.� As we leave Balule camp we see impala, zebra and giraffe.� We also see steenbok and hornbills.�� Our first �p&t� is at Hoedspruit (hat stream) named for the man who threw his hat into the stream due to being fed-up of travelling the distance (spat the dummy) so he decided to settle there and start farming the area. We pass villages and the hillsides are dotted with houses.� In the distance the mountains are shrouded in a hazy mist.� The forest has changed and is denser and greener with splashes of colour from the bougainvillea flowers.�� Our next �p&t� is Hazyview townsite where we buy supplies and snacks.� The scenery has now changed to rainforest and when we arrive just before lunch at the Lodge we find it is built in the tree top canopy.� The view is shrouded in green trees, creepers and vines with the sound of the river not too far away.����

After lunch we head out for a short 2 hour hike down to the Sabi River floodplain.� We are looking for Hippo and Crocodile.� The trail winds through the rainforest which is cool and shadowy.� Zane looks for signs but we are out of luck today it seems.� Before turning back we come to a deep pool and some of us brave the crocs for a swim (actually Zane is sure there are none around) but we can still say we swam in an African river.� Back at the lodge we spend the afternoon resting and chatting with the lodge Manager.� Robert has the beginnings of a cold so after dosing up we go to bed hoping to sleep it off.

Friday September 20, 2013

After a late breakfast (07:30) we head out to travel to the Kruger National Park where we will spend the entire day on a game drive.� The park, which is named after Paul Kruger (a past president) is 2 million hectares and was opened to the public in 1927 although it had been a game reserve from the late 1880�s.� After 30 mins on the highway we enter the Park through the Phebeni Gate and within a few minutes we spot buffalo, a giraffe and a family group of warthog (Pumbaa) and impala�s.� Zane tells us that the impala were introduced as a food source for the predators so with the arches on their behind they are the Macca�s (fast food) of the bush. According to a book we have there are currently about 177 thousand impala in the park. Before lunch at Skusuza we have already seen hippos, zebra, elephant and more giraffes.�� Although not strictly allowed Zane takes us down a dirt road for about 2km after we were informed of an African Painted Dog family group.� These are very rare now and Zane says he only sees them 2-3 times a year.� He tells us that they are extremely effective hunters bringing down 90% of prey whereas the Leopard has a 40% success rate. After lunch we are off again and in mid -afternoon we come across a large herd of elephant and a small pride of Lions including cubs!!!� The scene is perfect until a large bull elephant takes exception to the lions and with a large trumpet charges and sees them off. Much of the terrain is now black as a controlled burn has been through the area recently.� Now we are all on the alert for a leopard.� At one point a small leopard tortoise stops us by walking under the truck and we wait while Zane bravely gets out and picks up the cute critter.� We continue through the park and at last at 16:20 a Leopard is spotted lazing on a mound. A beautiful creature. Everyone is very excited �we have now seen the BIG FIVE.� Around 17:00 we pull up at the accommodation for the night within the Kruger Park.� Each chalet is a cute rondavel with air con.� Another early night.

Saturday September 21, 2013

After an early breakfast we are at the gate at 5:59 and once again on the lookout for wildlife.� Within 5 minutes we see an impala herd.� Soon after an elephant family and a rhino.� We are seeing so much now that we are getting blas� and most sightings are only noted in passing with the spotter pointing through the window.� Impalas pass with hardly a mention.� The terrain is still black in places by the road but low bushland stretches away to an endless horizon.� Our next sighting is a small herd of wildebeest and then jackpot again.� A pack of 7 hyenas snoozing in the sun next to the road-with three dear little pups.� Our luck holds out and now we are lucky enough to see an elephant family crossing the road- also with young.� The Babies are so cute.� At 09:30 we are at the Malelane Gate which ends our magical stay in Kruger National Park.� Almost but not quite.� While Zane waits in the traffic queue to exit we walk across the bridge over Crocodile River and see crocodiles.

We travel south and at 11:00 we are in Jeppes Reef at the border of South Africa and the Kingdom of Swaziland where we collect another passport stamp.� We are not staying in the Kingdom and are only passing through.� The scenery is very similar although more farm land and livestock is everywhere, often on the road verges.� The villages seem to be poorer than those we saw in South Africa.� The houses seem to be all mud brick, square and very small.� After travelling quite some time the farmland changes to sugar cane-huge tracts of it which is the principle income for the country. The view is now bordered on both sides by distant mountains as we stop on the roadside for lunch.� After lunch the road cuts through the Royal Game Preserve.� Within minutes we see a giraffe and Zane tells us that in all the trips he has done this is the first animal he has seen.� We pass more prosperous towns although we see more traditional homesteads-often just rondavels made with sticks.� Although quaint they are probably not very comfortable to live in.�� By mid-afternoon the landscape is once again low bushland and Lembobo Range is in the distance on all sides.� The weather has been overcast all day and low cloud shrouds the ranges in some places.� At 15:25 we are once again at a border and after having our passports validated we cross once again into South Africa-Zululand. We steadily climb higher, the landscape changes to lightly wooded farmland. �Around 16:45 our first non-planned adventure-breakdown.�� Surprisingly not as much fun as you imagine-it is very cold and takes a couple hours before we are on the road again.� Finally at 19:30 we at the Drifters Zululand lodge in the Hluhluwe game preserve.� The rooms are spacious and well-appointed with an uninterrupted view of False Bay. After a late dinner we head to bed around 11:30.� It has been a long day.

Sunday September 22, 2013

After a very leisurely breakfast the group head off on a hike-I elect to stay in and catch up on some washing etc.� They head down to False Bay where Zane talks about the history of the bay and shows the group some skulls to compare the different animals.� He points out some flora: including a fever tree so named because the locals thought it caused fever when it was actually the fact that it grew near water with the fever being caused by mosquitoes.� They saw a sausage tree and a monkey orange tree-some of the group tasted it but not big brave Robert-let�s face it a fruit is still a fruit.� Back at the camp Zane also points out a huge Leopard Orchid growing in the fork of a tree.� After lunch we split into 2 open vehicles for a game drive through Hluhluwe Impolozi Park.� Our guide is Sancha a local who has been guiding here for more than 13 years.� Just through the gate and we come across a warthog family-Sancha tells us that they have adapted very quickly and each night they sneak out of the park to the car park and sleep in the drains �safe and cool.� Soon we see the usual suspects-buffalo, baboon and impala.� This park supports over 2000 white rhino and 400 black rhino and very soon we see groups of them.� So many that they are relegated to the not worth a mention group now.� Until we come across a mother and her 3 month old calf.� The calf has us spellbound and Sancha says that each rhino has a distinct personality.� This one is going for the cutest baby award!!� We travel along and Sancha points out animals, birds and plants with little anecdotes about everything.� Unfortunately we don�t spot any of the big cats but some of the views are lovely and in the last 30 minutes we happen to come across a herd of giraffe catching a last glimpse of the sun over the mountains.� A perfect way to end the drive.

Tonight we have dinner outside around a fire in the old Drovers camp site up the road and then in bed by 22:00.

Monday September 23, 2013

The usual morning routine of loading the truck and then breakfast, we are off by 08:00.� Our first stop is a highlight for me-a local high school called The Ezifundeni Secondary School.� Here we are greeted by the Principal Mr Dubesani.� The school has 950 students with 3 streams of study: Human studies, Economics and Science.� All students are taught maths and languages, Zulu, English and Afrikaans.� 70 students are in their final year in ages ranging from 14-18.� Some will go next year to Uni but it is very expensive and only wealthy families can afford it. He takes us to a classroom where the Year 12 students gather to sing for us.� It is joyful and they are having the time of their lives singing and dancing.� They sing hymns, a wedding song and finally one which is the equivalent to our drinking songs-in this one the aim is to see who is the most fit by kicking above their heads.���

Next we walk down to the village and visit a Shangam (village fortune teller)-local wise woman.� She casts a range of bones, shells and pebbles and tells us our group fortune-it is all good!!.� The Principal invites us to ask questions and when it is my turn I ask about the grandchildren�s future-they will all be healthy, happy and successful in life.� Of course I burst into tears-surprise I am usually so controlled!!� It has been a wonderful experience.

On the road again (sounds like the lyrics of a song eh) and we head for Umdloti on the Dolphin Coast.� The journey is through farmland and housing estates and takes about a couple of hours.

We arrive at the Lodge which is literally on the beach and very modern-it has only been open 3 weeks. After lunch we take a walk to the �village� which is a few shops and a tavern.� The Bush Tavern has Wi-Fi so we spend the afternoon there.� Dinner is a fish braai-Roberts favourite- NOT!� As usual early to bed.

Tuesday September 24, 2013

Today starts with whales passing by some way out to sea and the beautiful sunrise which we seem to see every day here.� After breakfast we are off to Durban.�� As we travel on the N3 we pass Pinetown, Harrismith, Ladysmith and large tracts of farmland.� As we enter the city Zane tells us that it is the biggest city on the African east coast with a population of 3.5 million (90% of which are Indians).� The first point of interest is a huge soccer stadium built for the World Cup Soccer and now only used for bungy jumping!!.� As we pass through the districts close to the wharf area we see whole buildings which are completely destroyed internally and large groups of men standing around.� It is less than salubrious.� We are going to the uShaka Market Village and Marine World.� The central feature is a replica of an old ship that appears to have been beached complete with rust which houses restaurants and part of the aquatic centre. Very interesting.� As we are not really interested in the marine park we spend the next couple of hours wandering through the market village-which is really a collection of boutiques stores.� Finally we head to Spur restaurant which has Wi-Fi-yay.� Zane suggests an Indian restaurant for lunch whose house speciality is Curry Bunny-not a rabbit though-it is curry served in a � (or �) loaf of bread.� Then we are off again heading to our next stop in the Drakensberg (dragon home) Mountains which the locals call Ukhahlamba (place of spears).� We pass high density housing for a short while but soon the scenery is a patchwork of traditional villages, farmland and pine trees.� As we climb the scenery changes and is dominated by the mountains and rolling grassland covered hillsides.�� At a place called Alpine Heath Village (which is a classic alpine village nestled against the hillside-complete with sloping roofs and window boxes)� we transfer to a 4x4 vehicle and are given an �African massage� for the next 40 minutes as we climb over the tracks to the Lodge.� Our accommodation for the next two nights is in log cabins with an endless vista of the mountains-it is very very quiet-no electricity, no cars and only about 25 people.

Wednesday September 25, 2013

Did I say it was quiet-big mistake-as early in the morning the birds start up-where is a bebe gun when you need one?�

After breakfast we head off on a 14km hike which will take us to a height of 2250 metres.� Our first point of interest is a small cave in which Zane shows us some rock paintings.� These were done by the Bushman (an almost extinct tribe) who lived here.� The paintings are of the bushman, animals including a dog and an archer (the dog has dated the drawings to approximately 300 years old). Zane tells us this tribe used toxic tipped arrows to hunt and would track the injured prey for days until they were consumed by the poison.� Next we scramble up a granite face which brings us out on a ridge above a vulture eyrie which is easily spotted by the white face of the rock due to the bird poo.� The flock had almost died out as the farmers had almost eradicated the hyena in which the vultures needed the hyena poo for minerals and calcium.� The farmers have seen the error of their ways and now leave crushed cow bones around for the vultures to consume so the numbers have grown from only a few to over 60 now.� We take a group photo, have a short rest and snack. While here the managers dog (Bella) give some of us a near heart attack in how close she sits to the edge with us trying to entice her away without success. Shortly after we start a really arduous trek uphill-it is reminiscent of the Everest Trek-careful plodding one foot after another.� Finally we arrive at the crest of the mountain and the view spreads out before us from horizon to horizon.� After a rest and lunch we are off again on the descent which is not much easier with several rocky screes to transverse.� Finally we arrive back at the Lodge for a much needed shower and drink.� Robert then promptly falls asleep.

Thursday September 26, 2013

After transferring back to our truck we head off around 09:00.� After about 45 minutes we stop at Little Switzerland-which is typically African-thatched roofs!�� The scenery is once again rolling grasslands with occasional homesteads.� Our first photo stop is Sterkfontein Dam.�� Soon after we enter the Golden Gate National Park-which is the only park where domestic animals are allowed to mix.� It is a small park-only 1300 sq km.� We spot zebra, wildebeest and kudu.� �The park is flat grasslands circled by low rocky hills.� Then it is across to Clarens-an arty village.� Robert and I spend the time at the adventure park-zip lining and quad bike riding.� Whilst on the ride we tour the outskirts of the village-the houses are a mix of very poor and wealthy.�� We arrive at Fouriesburg in Eastern Free State around 17:00.� This town is where the last stand was made against the British by the Boers in 1902 in which they lost. The group is split over 3 guest houses for the night, ours is nice and very roomy including a spa (but not operating) and an indoor pool, it would have been a very upmarket home in its day.� An early night for an early start tomorrow.

Friday September 27, 2013

Up at 04:30 for a 05:00 depart.� Today we will be driving all day (750 km) to our accommodation for the next 2 nights in the Drifters Lodge in Karoo.� The grasslands are extensive and only broken by the long straight ribbon of road.� Grazing cattle are common with the mountains shrouded in low cloud a constant backdrop.� Around 09:30 is the first photo stop-a very windy high pass called Loots Berg Pass. �We pass some small hamlets and a large shanty town which highlights how poor some of the South Africans are.� Around mid-morning we reach the foothills and the landscape changes slightly-more low scrubby trees and we spot ostrich and kudu.� As we climb into the hills� the sign posts point to distinctly European names-like Roux Ville, Marseilles, Dwertzorp and East London!� At 13:00 we stop in Niue Bethesda for a drink and (some of the group ) beer tasting.�� In one field we see a large flock of cranes which Zane tells us is South African national bird.�� Our road now is a dirt track which cuts through the grassland.� There are hundreds of termite mounds showing evidence of aardvarks� in the area.� At around 16:00 we arrive at the Karoo Lodge for the next two nights �our rooms are in stone cottages (our cottage is named Aardvark) inside an extensive game preserve nestled by the Sneeuberg Mountains.� Before dinner our host Jay gives us a quick talk on the history of the area-The Lodge was built in the 1860�s and is heritage listed.� Up until about 15 years ago it was a working sheep farm and there is a lot of environmental damage on the property due to overgrazing.� Since taking over the Drifters group have begun the process of repair and also returning the indigenous wildlife-like kudu, springbok, aardvark, and zebra.� There are even some leopards somewhere although the current hosts have never seen them, only their tracks.

After a dinner of a traditional South African dish called Bubutti which is like a sweet curry, we dress up for a party-our costumes are made from black garbage bags.� I am a zebra and Robert is a black donkey-2 animals which is illegal in South Africa to have on the one property due to cross breeding.

Saturday September 28, 2013

After a late breakfast everyone (except 1 other and myself due to coming down with the dreaded cold) head off on a nature hike.� The walk is over mostly flat ground and Robert sees ostrich, zebra, springbok and hyrax locally known as dassie (a small animal which is closely related to elephants and beluga whale but resembles a fast moving quokka).� Zane introduces a national past time sport of springbok poo spitting-Robert does not indulge!!!!!� The idea is to keep it in your mouth as long as possible soaking up your saliva to make it heavier, the one which spits it the furthest wins, Zane wins of course. This region is ancient and there is some fossil evidence on the property.� Zane points out the fossil remains of a squat hippo like animal-Dicynodontus which lived here during the Triassic Period (~260 million years ago). Zane locates a very small Scorpion under a rock; these are night predators but can be easily located with a UV light in the dark. Zane points out candle bush which was traditionally used as a candle due to its slow burning properties. The group returns for lunch and split up for the afternoon-Robert heads out again and spends the afternoon stalking and photo hunting 2 zebra although from the photos it seems they were keeping a close eye on him too!� Dinner is a braai under a canopy of bright stars clearly visible without the visual pollution of the townships. Dinner is topped off with toasted marshmallows.

Sunday September 29, 2013

Another early start today so after taking some cute photos of the pet springbok baby we are off.� We arrive in Graaff-Reinet by 08:30.� This is the 4^th largest town in the Cape area and population ~62000, founded in 1786 and was named after a Governor of the Cape Colony and his wife.� This is a very orderly town with a beautiful church and a distinct mediterrean flavour with white buildings decorated with green louver shutters.

After a stroll through the town we are once again on the road.� Travelling on the N9, we soon leave the plains behind and pass through the Ouberg Pass along a winding road climbing into the Outeniqua Mountains.� Our route now takes us through hilly countryside with the usual low grey-green scrubby bushes but now there are thousands of aloe vera plants with vibrant orange foliage and flowers. Cactus plants are also very prominent.� We wind through the mountains-and after a picnic lunch just outside of Uniondale we cross the Outeniqua Pass.� The scenery is dramatic and Zane pulls in for a photo op.� The view reminds me of a crumpled green duvet spread over the mountains-very appealing after several days of flat grasslands in the drier regions. Our next point of interest is George- a very large prosperous orderly town until we reach the outskirts where the hillside is covered with a shanty town.� Soon after we enter uncleared land covered in pine trees and scattered amongst a surprising amount of Eucalyptus-Ghost and Salmon Gum.

The road winds around the mountains which dominate the scenery along with large sweeping bends, dramatic ravines and ocean views.� We arrive in the late afternoon at the Knysna Lodge for three nights.� Our room is almost a suite with a Jacuzzi �decorated in a Victorian style complete with window seats taking in the view of the Knysna Lagoon.� Knysna is a medium coastal town with a pop of ~76,000.�

Zane takes us to a waterfront restaurant for dinner and Robert and I have the Game Plate-ostrich, springbok and kudu steaks. It is all very good-once I get past the fact I am eating the very animals I came here to see!!

Monday September 30, 2013

Robert is up early to photograph the sunrise-looking very trendy on the deck in his jammies and socks with thongs!!!� Today we decide to leave the main group and in company with three others spend the day visiting some sanctuaries.� Our first stop is the Elephant Sanctuary-which has been operating for 11 years. It covers 38 square hectares and is a rehab centre. The elephants come here to be rehabilitated when they are injured, orphaned or as in Thabo�s case needs to be re-educated.� He came from Kruger National Park where he had become destructive and as Patrick says very naughty.� We are taken on a 1 hour informative tour by Patrick who has worked here for 9 years, he obviously loves his job and is very passionate about the welfare of the African elephant.�� He introduces us to the 4 female elephants: Jabu (Zulu for happy and 18 years), Tandi (Zulu for love and 17 years), Amaroula (the famous tree and alcohol here and 19 years) and Tumelo (Sotho for believe and 11 years). The male resident elephant is Thabo which is Zulu for mountain and he is only 12 years old. Next the women in the group are allocated an elephant to lead to the forest-I have Jabu and she places her trunk in my hand and we walk a short distance through a small forest.� In a clearing the elephants and trainers show us some behaviours which are natural to them-kneeling and shaking etc.� Patrick is adamant that the way is to teach not train them.� In fact the Sanctuary�s motto is just that.� After some time taking pics the guys are given an elephant to lead back.� We learn a great deal from Patrick about the habits, lifestyle and threats to the elephants and leave with a DVD and a deeper appreciation of this amazing creature.

Next stop is Monkeyland-which not surprisingly is a monkey sanctuary.� It is the world�s first primate sanctuary and a world leader in rehab providing a safe natural environment for previously caged primates. Again we have a young guide who points out the various species and is a well of information.� We see golden spider monkeys, kampuchean monkeys, lemurs (murmurs all around from people singing �I like to move it, move it� �everyone knows King Julian) and a beautiful gibbon.� Whilst it is clear the monkeys are slightly tame due to exposure to humans they generally ignore us and go about their business.� We also see quite a few tortoises one of which is getting a hard time from a kampuchean monkey-for no apparent reason.� After lunch we head to our last sanctuary called Birds of Eden-the largest single free flight aviary in the world.� Now regular readers will know we are not bird people but we are very impressed with this compound.� Inside a raised wooden walkway spirals and meanders through beautiful indigenous vegetation populated with many previously caged birds from all corners of the world.� It houses many species including golden pheasants, green turaco, South American macaws and pink and grey galahs. At regular intervals are viewpoint rest stops to enhance the experience.� Towards the end of the walk we come across wetland complete with Pink Flamingos and a pair of black swans.� We would encourage anyone planning on a coming to this area to make the time to visit these sanctuaries�-well worth it.� At 15:45 Zane collects us and we all go to another sanctuary called Tenikwa which is for wild native cats.� Our guide is Siswe and he is, again, a well- informed guide who shows a video which reinforces our belief that we must stand and take action if we are to save the diverse wildlife for our grandchildren.� This sanctuary is primarily a rehab and education centre. Only hand reared or captive born animals are shown to the public.� The bulk of the work is behind the scenes away from human contact as much as possible.� This increases the rate of survival once the animal is released.� An important function of the centre is to educate farmers in ways to protect their flocks (mainly sheep) without having to eradicate the native cats.� We are shown several species of smaller animals: meerkats, marabou birds, cranes, African hunting cat, caracal and baboons.� But then we are taken into an enclosure with two cheetahs that are free to roam.� They are incredibly beautiful creatures with a natural grace. They were hand reared and appear very affectionate and tame-for their handlers, but we all keep to a quiet group close to each other being careful not to eyeball the cat for too long!� Next we try our luck with the elusive leopard-the enclosure has a raised wooden deck which the leopard is under so although we are very close to him as we walk over-we can�t get photos!! Still not many can say they have been within 10 centimetres of a leopard.�����

Back at the Lodge we have ostrich casserole for dinner-tastes like beef not chicken.� Another great day.

Tuesday October 1, 2013

Today is our leisure day and everyone has decided to go whale watching.� Our boat is called Oyster Catcher, seats only 10 and is driven by Stephan.� As we putt out to the heads Stephan points out rock formations of interest: Knysna nostrils and the Needle caves-so named for the salt stalactites in the mouth of the caves.� He also points out various birdlife including a pair of Oyster Catchers which are almost extinct. Then we pass through the Knysna Heads which due to their currents is the 3^rd most dangerous entrance to the ocean in the world. As we travel to the whale site we see some cape fur seal, dolphins and lots of birds. Sadly once we are stopped waiting for the whales to surface mal de mer strikes and I spend the remainder of the trip head in a bucket. As not many whales swim around in the bottom of a bucket I don�t see any whales (5^th trip trying) but apparently the others were fortunate to have a pair very close to the boat.� Back on dry land-which I feel like kneeling down and kissing-we walk back into town for some shopping and eventually lunch.� Tonight we have a braai and chocolate bananas for dinner.

Wednesday October 2, 2013

Today is Robert�s birthday and at breakfast Zane gives him a card and the group all sing Happy Birthday for him.� Then at 08:30 we are off again for a long day-final destination Cape Town.� As we head out we pass rolling hillsides bordered by the coastline on the left.� We stop at our first point of interest (around 10:15) which is an aloe vera products shop and factory that was established in 1986.� Back on the road and we pass more eucalypts and also some varieties of wattle-very aussie like.� The scenery is a checkerboard of farmland with the mountains forming a dramatic backdrop passing through towns called Swellendam and Riviersonde.� After lunch we are back in the mountain passes on a winding road hugging the hillside.� The hillside is covered in very low green vegetation and very few trees.� On the lower slopes we pass occasional wine and horse properties. Zane turns off the N2 onto the R43 which is the Whale Coast Route where we pass through a large town called Hermanus.� We are fortunate to see some Southern Right Whales off in the distance but the highlight is a visit to Stony Beach African Penguin Colony.� Like so many animals we have seen on our tour the penguins are a threatened species with only 30,000 breeding pairs left.

On the road again and at ~16:30 Zane pulls into a mountainside layby for a group shot with Cape Town as a backdrop in the distance.� As we near our final destination the scenery is cloud shrouded rocky mountains with splashes of purple wildflowers on our right and the ocean to the horizon on our left.

Finally at 17:37 we hit the outskirts Cape Town known as the Mother City.� This is the oldest city in SA and has a population of 3.8 million. We pass miles and miles of shanty housing and then hit traffic!!� Our lodge for the next three nights is in Sea Point and although the room is very small, it is quite nice.�

Tonight we go to a traditional restaurant for dinner.� Robert has a smoked game meat platter for a starter-which is surprised to find is raw but smoked.�� Evind orders the deep fried caterpillars and shares them-they are surprisingly good.� Robert has Serengeti platter for main which has chicken, springbok and crocodile.� Check out how adventurous we are!!!

Thursday October 3, 2013

Today we leave the group to visit Robben Island-where Dr. Nelsen Mandela was incarcerated as a political prisoner for ~18 years.� We caught the local bus to the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront where the Nelson Mandela Museum is.� The museum is well set up with storyboards detailing the history of the area from before the dinosaurs through to being discovered by the Dutch right up to the emancipation of Mandela in 1990. We are very lucky to have a clear shot of Table Mountain which has been named as the 7^th Wonder of the Natural World.� Whilst waiting for the ferry to the island we visit the Chavonnes Battery Exhibition.� In 1999 during wharf renovation the remains of a fort (mid 1700 and named for the governor from 1714-1721) were excavated from under a fish factory. The walls and foundations became an exhibition in the basement of the new building.� Story boards throughout detail the history from the Ottoman Empire in the 15^th century to the English occupation in the 17^th century.

At 13:00 we board the ferry to Robben Island which is 11.4 km from the mainland. The island is 13 square km and had been used as a penal colony for many years.� It was only closed in 1996.� Once on the island we are bussed about and our guide tells us about the buildings and policies which the island is infamous for.� He points out structures which were built for the wardens, war defences, common law criminals, political criminals and the only privately owned building on the island which is the Good Shepherd Anglican Church.

After the bus tour we are taken to the prison where we are met by a former political prisoner who walks us through the buildings and tells us about the daily life of an inmate.� We see the cell of prisoner 466/64 which was how Dr. Mandela was known for 27 years of his life.� The prison housed many of the people who were instrumental in eventually bringing about the social changes which swept apartheid out of Africa.� Many of the prisoners called the prison their university as they completed their degrees while incarcerated-most notable and current is the President of the country-Mr Zuma.� Our guide tells us that he is happy to come and talk to people on the island about his life and that the island is not a reminder for revenge and torture but a testament to the hope for humanity.� It is very poignant and meaningful and of course-I cry.

Back on the mainland we wander (and shop) again.� We find a square called Nobel Square which has slightly over life size statues of SA 4 Nobel prize laureates:� Nelson Mandela, FW de Klerk, Desmond Tutu and Albert Luthuli.� They stand on a plinth which has quotations from each person.� A place for reflection and remembrance.

Friday October 4, 2013

Today the group head up to Table Mountain but sadly it is closed due to poor weather.� Back down again and we head to an area of Cape Town where the houses are all painted in bright colours.� Evind tells me it was done to celebrate the abolishment of slavery and the practice has been kept up.� Some of the roads are still cobbled here and all are very narrow.� Zane takes us to the V&A Waterfront and we spend a couple of hours meandering.� In the afternoon we walk to the SA Museum and spend an hour there before heading back to the lodge for a final dinner with the group.

Saturday October 5, 2013

Sadly Table Mountain is closed again today so to fill in the day we board the Mini Peninsular Blue Route hop on hop off bus.��� We are given headsets and grab the front seats on the top deck.� This route has 15 points of interest with the first being 3 Anchor Bay-so named as the Dutch East India Company (who had the monopoly on the economics of Cape Town for a long time) strung a chain with �you guessed it-3 anchors across the bay to discourage smugglers.� Next is the Cape Town Stadium which was built for the 2010 FIFA cup-remember the vuvuzela drama?� Next we pass the Victoria and Alfred (the son not Albert the consort) Waterfront through town up past the Cape Town Int. Conference Centre which can cater for 12000 conferees.� As we head out of town we pass the 3^rd oldest mosque which was built in 1802 and then the Mt Nelson Hotel where many of the rich and famous like Winston Churchill, John Lennon and U2 have stayed.� It is apparently also famous for its High Tea.� Just In the distance is Table Mountain (2000ft above sea level and first climbed by Europeans in 1503) which often has a cloud along the top known as the table cloth but today the cloud cover is more like a doona. Our next point of interest is the Kirsten Bosch Botanical Gardens which are the 7^th largest in the world.� We see many strelitzia known as�� Mandela�s Gold specially bred to honour a visit by him in the 1990�s.� Soon we pass the location of District 6-which was declared a white zone in 1966 where thousands of black South Africans were forcibly removed and their homes bulldozed. Now it is just a large patch of open land.� Along the route we pass the Hospital where in 1967 Christian Barnard made heart history and a Grecian temple dedicated to Cecil Rhodes (who once owned nearly a million acres of Africa (which he bequeathed to the state).� We pass a shanty town known as Imizamo Yethu which originally had 20 squatters and now is home to thousands.� Heading along the coast road we pass a structure know as Castle Liechtenstein which was built by someone with a lot of time and money on their hands!!!� Down through Hout Bay past the 12 Apostles (if you count them there are more than 12) and Campo Bay which is the Venice Beach of Cape Town.� The houses are opulent with private lifts, high fences where a parking bay costs as much in this area as a small house anywhere else.� Finally after a very interesting couple of hours we return to Sea Point to wait for our transfer to the airport.

We have our final catch up with Zane prior to him setting off on his next tour.

Departing Cape Town at 6.00pm for our trip home, next stop Johannesburg at 8.00pm. Nice short trip to prepare ourselves. Departing 10.05pm for the long haul of 9.5 hours! (2 hours shorter than arrival, not sure how that works, must be downhill)

Sunday October 6, 2013

We arrive around 1.25pm which is a reasonable time. We have booked the next 2 days off for recovery, returning to work Wednesday.� And another chapter in our travel book closes leaving us with incredible memories and hundreds of photos.