Review: Ritz Paris

So, what's the story behind this place?
In 1898, Swiss hotelier César Ritz partnered with French chef Auguste Escoffier to open what soon became known as one of the most luxurious hotels in the world, thanks to such then-innovative touches as private bathrooms, telephones, and electricity in each room. Over the decades, the Ritz became a favorite of everyone from kings and queens to Marcel Proust and Coco Chanel; the latter, who lived here for 34 years, has a suite named for her, while fellow regular Ernest Hemingway’s name adorns both a suite and (what else?) a bar. But even an icon needs a re-fresh, so in 2012, the hotel closed for the first time in its history, re-emerging four years later with updated technologies, new facilities, and a look that’s brighter and lighter, but still gilded to the core. The majestic grand staircase still winds its way up from the lobby, chandeliers and tufted chairs abound, and liveried staffers stand at attention.

Who are the other guests?
The crowd is all deep-pockets and haute couture, including fashion, tech, and media elites, press-shy billionaires, and ladies of leisure.

Tell us about the digs.
The 142 rooms and suites are generous and elegant, with a color scheme of creams and pale pinks or blues accented by rich brocades, Louis XV furnishings, pastoral oil paintings, chandeliers, and signature flourishes like key-shaped light switches and silk tulip lampshades. The design of each of the Prestige Suites aims to reflect their respective namesakes, so you’ll find antique books lining the Marcel Proust space, and a collection of worldly souvenirs in the F. Scott Fitzgerald. All rooms have marble fireplaces, while higher floor rooms and most suites have balconies or terraces.

Food and drink

The first thing to know is that the chef, Eugénie Béziat, is the first woman to take the culinary reigns. Her talent speaks for itself but flew somewhat under Parisian radars. The 40 year-old chef grew up in Gabon, the Congo, and the Ivory Coast until she was eighteen, finding her way into cooking only at age 23, after a life-changing meal chez Hélène Darroze. Before she got the call from the Ritz, she had earned a Michelin star at La Flibuste on the French Riviera where she developed her own style. That extends to this upgraded culinary throne where she, thankfully, dispenses with the trend of obsequious homages to the heritage of the place and the legends that once ran the show. On the plate, her origins, memories, and deep flavor reservoir are unmistakable sources of inspiration but never lead into "fusion" territory. It is dynamic right from the first dish: fresh herbs in a yuzu gel with an herbaceous, tangy kick and continues apace with a braised tomato cake with rosemary, accompanied by a grapefruit and gentian granita. A plump grilled oyster is served with a sauce made from Para watercress, a Madagascan plant that is grown in the Paris region (plenty of other ingredients come from the Ritz's own vegetable gardens) served with an oyster tartare. And what may very well become her signature dish is the one that is most visually striking: an onion matured and cooked in clay, which was presented and opened tableside, comes with an heirloom Houdan chicken in a citrus jus and a tartlet garnished with yassa-style minced chicken thigh meat. And a grilled lobster tail was served in a bath of bissap which she says reminds her of an African beach barbecue. Both are clever nods to her formative years in West Africa. It hardly takes any additional courses to grasp the chef's bold vision and technical prowess. It is among the most exciting and unexpected fine dining experiences to play out in Paris. Dessert is overseen by the Ritz's supremely talented pastry chef François Perret, en place since 2016. He deftly blends his signature style with Béziat's risk-taking ambitions for desserts like a revisited crunchy chocolate soufflé with kororima seeds and sea salt, and a honeycombed croustillant, topped with two types of honey, almond and orange. —Lindsey Tramuta

We’re craving some deep, restorative sleep. They got us?
Sink into a flurry of down and cotton on King-size beds.

Please tell us the bathroom won’t let us down.
The marble bathrooms have been refreshed and modernized (look for the TVs now hidden in the mirrors), but still feature beloved original touches like fluffy, peach-colored robes and towels (a hue personally chosen by Mr. Ritz), and golden swan bathtub taps.

Maybe the most important topic of all: Wi-Fi. What’s the word?
Wi-Fi is complimentary and, thanks to the recent re-wiring, strong.

How about room service: Worth it?
Whatever you want, whenever you want, can be delivered to your door. Note that you'll need to order coffee and tea, as there are no facilities for making them in most of the rooms.

Any other standout services or features? Whether it’s childcare, gyms, spas, even parking—whatever stuck with you.
There are several places to indulge your taste buds, from the glass-ceilinged Bar Vendôme brasserie (try the Japanese breakfast in the morning), to the Salon Proust for a decadent afternoon tea replete with perfectly spongey Madeleines.

If you love what you've savored, book a class at the L'Ecole Ritz Escoffier cooking school to up your kitchen game (kid’s classes are also offered.) Get to the always-packed Bar Hemingway early to snag a seat, then sip on cocktails while indulging in some prime people watching. Launched in September 2021, the Ritz Bar is a dramatic, lantern-topped space serving glamorous cocktails concocted by Romain de Courcy, a rising star mixologist, that are inspired by astrological signs.

Also indulgent: facial treatments using Biologique Recherche or massages featuring French-made oils formulated specially for Ritz Paris, a dip in the shimmering pool, and a quiet drink in the lush central garden. The shopping arcade houses luxury boutiques and a Ritz concept store.

What was most memorable—or heartbreaking—about your stay?
The impeccable service and attention to detail will have you feeling like royalty.

Bottom line: worth it, and why?
As long as you're prepared for the sticker shock, this is must-stay for history buffs and hotel junkies.