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A fashion genius. A fascinating, if enigmatic, character. A rigorous and passionate artist. The world's most iconic fashion designer.
Such are the epitaphs pouring in for the legendary designer Karl Lagerfeld, who died on February 19 at the American Hospital of Neuilly just outside Paris.
It's a guess that the man who, with his overflowing creativity resurrected the fashion house of Chanel, was 85 years old. But, as with most of his persona and private life, his true age is clouded in mystery.
He liked to say that he didn't know his real date of birth.
"With his stinging verve, powdered ponytail and opaque sunglasses, he has upset the history of fashion in general and that of Chanel and Fendi fashion houses in particular, to capture the tune of time with humor," writes Le Point in its obituary.
His career began when the then-20-year-old arrived in Paris, the world's fashion capital, with his mother and after winning a fashion-related contest started to work as the design assistant for the couturier Pierre Balmain.
Soon, with his indefatigable energy and creativity and his playful luxury style, he went independent, creating clothes for other brands including Chloé and Fendi, as well as his own.
In 1983, 12 years after the death of Coco Chanel, he became artistic director of the house on Rue Cambon that was suffering difficult times. His discipline and work ethic earned him the nickname of "Kaiser of Fashion" and gave Chanel a second wind.
He stayed at the creative helm of Chanel until his death, even as he had been designing for Fendi since 1965 and also designing collections for his brand.
Around 2000, he decided to change his image, losing 40 pounds and to accelerate his career, multiplying his projects, working with a new generation of stars, models and socialites while leading a modern, trend-saturated luxury industry.
"He collaborated with H&M, starred in the film Lagerfeld Confidential, dressed a revered bottle of Coca-Cola Light, made his cat, Choupette, into a star and worked in some of his most spectacular fashion parades (from the launch of the Chanel rocket at the Grand Palais to the Cuba cruise parade)," recalls Le Point. "Inexhaustible agitator, he does not miss an opportunity to tackle its rivals, like the House of Pucci about which he said: 'I think that the tattoos are horrible. It's like wearing a Pucci dress for life.'"
He became a globally-recognized figure, not only for his couture but also because he cut a striking figure wearing "a distinctive ensemble of crisp white, high-collared shirts with black tailored jacket and jeans, punctuated with a tie, shades, fingerless gloves and black boots," as described by the BBC.
"I am like a caricature of myself, and I like that. It is like a mask. And for me the Carnival of Venice lasts all year long," he once said of his signature look.
His passing permanently marks the world of fashion: Before Lagerfeld and After Lagerfeld.
