Fried, pickled or roasted: 5 ways to cook with Jerusalem artichokes
These tasty tubers can be used in more than just soups.
With their beautifully earthy, nutty notes, Jerusalem artichokes remind me of salsify, but they also have a distinct hint of artichoke hearts. What I like most about them is that they can be served in a variety of ways — raw, pureed, pickled or made into crisps. In Germany, they’re even fermented to make brandy. You can also use the skins washed, roasted and ground to add a breadcrumb-like texture to dishes.
These beautiful tubers are the root of a specific variety of sunflower, which is why in the US you’ll seem them on menus as ‘sunchokes’. They store their carbohydrates as inulin rather than starch —which some people find harder to digest — and lie dormant in the ground, withstanding low temperatures, meaning they can be harvested throughout the colder months.
Growing your own Jerusalem artichokes is incredibly easy as they require little maintenance. You can simply leave some of the tubers in the ground and they’ll produce next year’s crop. The only thing that’s essential once you’ve taken them out of the ground — unless you’re planning to peel them — is giving them a thorough clean. They’re knobbly beasts and mud can get in the crevices. Once clean, Jerusalem artichokes can be roasted, boiled or steamed. I prefer steaming, as they tend to retain their texture, and from there you can roast them, puree them or — a popular choice — make them into a delicious soup.
1. Pickled
Put finely sliced artichokes in a pickling liquid of three parts water, two parts vinegar and one part sugar, with star anise or other spices. Use in salads or on toast.
2. Fried
Steam the artichokes in their skins until tender. Once cooled, fry them in neutral oil until crisp; take out and dress with sea salt while still warm. Delicious dunked in a punchy aioli.
3. Roasted
Steam artichokes in their skins until tender. When cool, drizzle with olive oil and salt and roast at 200C until crisp (around 30 mins). Enjoy as a substitute for roast potatoes.
4. Brown butter
Poach peeled artichokes in salted water until cooked but still firm. Brown some butter and add the artichokes (bigger ones sliced). Great on toast or in a goat’s cheese omelette.
5. Crisps
Finely slice unpeeled artichokes in rounds and deep-fry until they resemble potato crisps. A lovely snack or great for adding texture and flavour to salads and other dishes.
Johnnie Collins is chef in residence at Oakley Court and 180 Studios.
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