How to Refinish Hardwood Floors

Using a pry bar, carefully pry the shoe moulding from the wall. Make sure to label the shoe moulding and use painters tape to mark the corresponding wall. For rooms without shoe moulding, you can either remove the baseboard or use extra caution when sanding near the walls. Take any doors off their hinges.

Closely inspect the floor before refinishing, driving in any raised nail heads. If you’re ripping up the carpet, remove the carpet staples underneath. These fasteners will tear the paper on the hardwood flooring sanders.

Use a vacuum and/or a mop to remove any dirt and debris on the floor.

Do a third pass with 100-grit sandpaper. This will be the final sanding pass. Afterward, vacuum thoroughly with a brush attachment. Use a damp mop on the floor to pick up any remaining particles.

If the floor feels rough after sanding, buff it with a 120-grit screen. Buffing with a screen will smooth out fine scratches. Work along the grain, getting as close as possible to the walls. Use a sanding screen for the edges and corners, too. Finish up with a thorough cleaning — windowsills, walls, etc. It’s a good idea to go over the floor with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits.

After you’ve sanded the center of the room, do the edges using a power hand sander with paper of the same grit. In the corners, use a detail sander.

After sanding, vacuum thoroughly with a brush attachment.

Before you sand with the next grit, fill in deep gouges and holes with matching wood filler. Also, draw light pencil marks a few feet out along the edges. This will help you see where you’ve sanded, as hardwood flooring sanders remove pencil marks. For the second pass with the sander, use a medium, 60-grit sandpaper. Also, use 60-grit paper with the hand sander along the edges and the detail sander for the corners.

Clean up the dust with a vacuum and brush attachment.

Do a third pass with 100-grit sandpaper. This will be the final sanding pass. Afterward, vacuum thoroughly with a brush attachment. Use a damp mop on the floor to pick up any remaining particles.

If the floor feels rough after sanding, buff it with a 120-grit screen. Buffing with a screen will smooth out fine scratches. Work along the grain, getting as close as possible to the walls. Use a sanding screen for the edges and corners, too. Finish up with a thorough cleaning — windowsills, walls, etc. It’s a good idea to go over the floor with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits.

Stain in the direction of the wood grain using a foam applicator, making sure to work in manageable sections.

It’s generally recommended to remove any excess stain within the first few minutes after application. This can be done with clean cotton cloths or paper towels. Check the manufacturer’s directions to see if they have a preferred material or method for removing the excess.

The stain should be completely dry before you apply any wood finish.

Vacuum the entire room again and clean the floor with a tack cloth. It’s important to have a dust-free floor.

Complete the project by applying a polyurethane finish with a natural bristle brush and stain pad applicator. Stir the polyurethane thoroughly (no shaking) and apply it along the edges using smooth strokes. You don’t want any bubbles. For the center of the floor, use the stain pad applicator. Always maintain a wet edge and avoid creating bubbles.

Let the polyurethane dry according to the manufacturer’s directions and apply a second coat. Some products don’t require sanding between coats.

After the final coat has dried for a few days, you can reattach the shoe moulding. Return any furniture to the room, taking care not to slide it across the floor.