What Does Formal Attire Mean?
Here's What 'Black Tie Optional' Really Means
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Okay, you’ve received the invitation for a wedding and at the bottom of the invitation are the three dreaded words: black tie optional. Do you wear a suit or a tuxedo? Do you wear a regular tie or a bow tie? What is a cummerbund, anyway?
Every man is going to have to face the mysteries of formal wear at some point in his life, so familiarizing yourself with the terminology will save you a million questions next time you have to dress for that dreaded black tie event. But first things first, no matter the occasion, keep an eye on how your suit fits.
If you’re at a business-casual lunch or at a white tie wedding, no one will recognize the merit of your suit if it doesn’t fit correctly -- even if you spent a fortune on it. For one, the shoulder pads should end at your shoulders, not before and definitely not after.
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As for the sleeves of your jacket, they should just hit the base of your thumb, while your shirt cuff should be peeking out around a half an inch after the cuff. Pants should have one inch of break at the bottom, not pooling over your shoe or, heaven forbid, showing off your ankle.
Yes, formal wear can be baffling. There’s nothing worse than showing up to an event to find out you’re the only one wearing a sport coat in a sea of tailcoats or, worse, you’re wearing a tailcoat in a crowd of suits. So to help you figure out what’s what in the world of formal attire, we’ve put together a cheat sheet on every type of formal attire there is and exactly what to wear for each.
Contents
When The Invite Says Formal...
Okay you got it -- the dreaded formal invitation. Don’t for one second think that you can break out your trusty old black suit you wear to your big meetings. There are many different types of formal, and each one requires a different suit or tux. Read on, so next time you receive a ‘white tie’ invite, you know it doesn’t simply mean put on a white tie.
White Tie
White tie is the most formal you can get – think gala, think opera, think big-budget wedding. Sadly, there isn’t much wiggle room for personal style when it comes to white tie. A white tie dress code requires the most formal outfit available: black or navy tailcoat, matching trousers with a satin seam running down the outer of each leg, a waistcoat, a white wing-collared dress shirt, a bow tie, a set of kid gloves, a boutonniere, a white silk scarf, cuff links and, to top it all off, a black top hat.
The rules of white tie are pretty strict. The tailcoat can be either black or dark navy, and the bow tie should be the same fabric as the waistcoat. Boutonnieres should be real – no fake flowers. Ditch the wristwatch -- pocket watches are the traditional timepiece for a white tie event. And while top hats and white gloves used to be the standard for white tie apparel, you should be safe leaving the top hat at home nowadays. These rules may seem pretty constricting, but luckily for us; white tie events are few and far between.
Black Tie
Black tie is one step down from white tie -- still formal, but no outdated headwear. Think a classic black tux, including jacket, trousers with a satin stripe down the side, a cummerbund, and a bow tie. A decent tuxedo will last you years of mileage and many a formal event, so consider investing in a quality tuxedo that fits well. Fit is key -- shelling out the extra dollars on a tailor will make you look that much more suave come event night.
Black Tuxedo
Black Tie Optional
Black tie optional gives you a choice: you can either break out the tuxedo from the back of your closet or you could just wear a suit. Realistically, if you’re on a budget or simply too lazy to hit the store, you can wear one of your nine-to-five suits. But if you are going to wear a suit, make sure it’s darker in color (navy or dark grey are ideal) and that you wear it with a pressed dress shirt and a solid tie to dress it up.
Formal
Formal is another step down after white tie and black tie. It’s still a level up from your traditional workday suit and tie, but no cummerbund is required here. There aren’t as many outfit restrictions for a formal event, so feel free to really let your personality show. Colored suits, patterned shirts, the world is your oyster. Just be sure to wear a full suit: tie, cufflinks, blazer and trousers. If the event is more fashion-forward (for example, the wedding of a graphic designer buddy or a work party at a hip bar), you can even play with the air tie or opt out entirely from wearing one.
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Day
There are also a slew of less common outfit guidelines, one of them being day formal. You probably won’t run into day formal too often -- it’s most often seen on members of wedding parties. Day formal consists of a black tailcoat, tan waistcoat, and grey satin-striped pants.
Beach Formal
Beach formal is a relatively new category in the world of formalwear, so feel free to dress at your discretion. Since the event will, as the name suggests, be at the beach, we recommend keeping it light. A white, cream, or light grey suit will look much more at home on the beach than a traditional black suit. For fabrics, opt for a cotton or linen suit, which will be much more forgiving when you’re sweating in the sun than a woollen suit. Feel free to leave the tie at home and try a patterned shirt – you are at the beach after all!
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When The Invite Says Semi-Formal...
Let’s set the record straight: semi-formal does not mean casual. Leave the sneakers behind, boys. If the invite says ‘evening semiformal’, consider it pretty similar to evening formal. You’ll need a tuxedo, black cummerbund or waistcoat, black bow tie, and a white scarf.
If the invite says semi-formal, traditionally it would mean breaking out your most formal, darker colored suit. Nowadays, you can definitely get away with a suit with a little more personality, but be sure to highlight the dress shirt and dress shoes regardless.
Cocktail
Decide your cocktail attire based on what the crowd will be like. Heading to an academic lecture or a mixer with your boss's boss? A classic black or navy suit will serve you well. Heading out to an art opening in the city? Let your personality shine through with a patterned shirt or a colored suit. There are no strict rules with cocktail attire, so play off the mood of the event. If you’re on the more daring side of the sartorial scale, try a pair of smoking sandals or loafers with your suit.
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When The Invite Says Casual...
Sorry guys -- casual does not mean you can roll out of the house in sweats. Business casual requires a certain level of pizzaz – think blazer and slacks instead of sweats and your favorite tee. Keeping an eye on the invite dress code will help you impress the crowd come cocktail hour. If you’re not sure of the dress code, ask around to see what your friends and colleagues are wearing. When in doubt, go with a classic navy or dark grey suit and tie -- worst case scenario you can slip the tie into your pocket if you’re overdressed.
Business Casual
Business casual basically translates into your nine-to-five apparel, unless you work in a laid-back office or if you work from home (no pyjamas, folks). A business-casual look should look professional, but let a bit of your personality play into it. A suit jacket with a more casual or non-matching trouser is fine, as is a dress shirt with regular trousers.
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Casual And Dressy Casual
Casual. Does. Not. Mean. Jeans. And. Sneakers. Seriously guys, don’t do it. You definitely have more freedom when it comes to choices, but for a casual dress code stick to a slim pair of trousers and a nice sweater, polo, or button-up. If the invite says dressy-casual, throw a blazer over it and call it a day.
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