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The Old Patagonian Express: By Train Through the Americas Paperback – November 7, 1989
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Starting with a rush-hour subway ride to South Station in Boston to catch the Lake Shore Limited to Chicago, Theroux winds up on the poky, wandering Old Patagonian Express steam engine, which comes to a halt in a desolate land of cracked hills and thorn bushes. But, with Theroux, the view along the way is what matters: the monologuing Mr. Thornberry in Costa Rica, the bogus priest of Cali, and the celebrated writer, Jorge Luis Borges, who delights in having Theroux read Robert Louis Stevenson to him.
- Print length404 pages
- LanguageEnglish
- PublisherMariner Books Classics
- Publication dateNovember 7, 1989
- Dimensions5.5 x 1.05 x 8.25 inches
- ISBN-10039552105X
- ISBN-13978-0395521052
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About the Author
PAUL THEROUX is the author of many highly acclaimed books. His novels include The Bad Angel Brothers, The Lower River, Jungle Lovers, and The Mosquito Coast, and his renowned travel books include Ghost Train to the Eastern Star and Dark Star Safari. He lives in Hawaii and on Cape Cod.
Product details
- Publisher : Mariner Books Classics; Reissue edition (November 7, 1989)
- Language : English
- Paperback : 404 pages
- ISBN-10 : 039552105X
- ISBN-13 : 978-0395521052
- Item Weight : 13.5 ounces
- Dimensions : 5.5 x 1.05 x 8.25 inches
- Best Sellers Rank: #191,149 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #37 in Railroad Travel Reference
- #52 in General South America Travel Guides
- #558 in Travelogues & Travel Essays
- Customer Reviews:
About the author
Paul Theroux was born and educated in the United States. After graduating from university in 1963, he travelled first to Italy and then to Africa, where he worked as a Peace Corps teacher at a bush school in Malawi, and as a lecturer at Makerere University in Uganda. In 1968 he joined the University of Singapore and taught in the Department of English for three years. Throughout this time he was publishing short stories and journalism, and wrote a number of novels. Among these were Fong and the Indians, Girls at Play and Jungle Lovers, all of which appear in one volume, On the Edge of the Great Rift (Penguin, 1996).
In the early 1970s Paul Theroux moved with his wife and two children to Dorset, where he wrote Saint Jack, and then on to London. He was a resident in Britain for a total of seventeen years. In this time he wrote a dozen volumes of highly praised fiction and a number of successful travel books, from which a selection of writings were taken to compile his book Travelling the World (Penguin, 1992). Paul Theroux has now returned to the United States, but he continues to travel widely.
Paul Theroux's many books include Picture Palace, which won the 1978 Whitbread Literary Award; The Mosquito Coast, which was the 1981 Yorkshire Post Novel of the Year and joint winner of the James Tait Black Memorial Prize, and was also made into a feature film; Riding the Iron Rooster, which won the 1988 Thomas Cook Travel Book Award; The Pillars of Hercules, shortlisted for the 1996 Thomas Cook Travel Book Award; My Other Life: A Novel, Kowloon Tong, Sir Vidia's Shadow, Fresh-air Fiend and Hotel Honolulu. Blindness is his latest novel. Most of his books are published by Penguin.
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This one in particular fed into my wish to " someday" travel. I was a poor student who thought travel was only for the rich. I didn't realize you could do it cheaply - if you don't mind a few discomforts. It gave the information I needed to take journeys that expanded my world view.
The book reads like a diary of his travel from Boston to Tierra del Fuego, most of the time by train. Along the way he meets both ordinary & famous people - most of whom he dislikes. At the beginning of his train trip he meets a self-centered young woman who gives him a rundown of her dietary needs and "sensitivities." She is a the first of many people who will annoy and confound him. He also manages to meet luminaries like Jorge Luis Borges. Even Borges doesn't distract him from train" schedules", breakdowns, people, and misunderstanding that - he thinks - exist only to thwart his enjoyment. He hates everyone and everything but manages to describe it all in hilarious prose.
I know many people dislike his grouchy persona - they wonder why he even travels. Give him a break - he is like one of those old - fashioned uncles (at least in literature) who fill your head with wonderful images of far away places while complaining about the most trivial problems. You know he's finicky, so all you take in is the wonder of discovering new places.
I will always love this book and Mr. Theroux for leading me out of small, Midwestern-town-USA. How else would I have found myself hitching a ride to Otoval market (ECUADOR) on top of a precarious truck carrying vegetables & chickens? Two Japanese sisters made the trip even more fun as we screamed & laughed all the way. A trip of a lifetime on a shoe string budget. Luckily I was young enough to ignore discomfort so that I could enjoy new vistas and people.
I will always keep my worn copy of this book. I give it 5 stars for inspiration, hilarity, and practical advice.
I liked the physical descriptions of all the places Theroux journeyed to in this book but we must remember that his depictions represented the world as it was forty years ago and often reflect typical American attitudes from that time as well. With that caveat, I can honestly say I loved his depictions of most places he visits. But I felt Theroux could be excessively snippy when depicting people, kind of ala Truman Capote. And his perceptions of the indigenous people he encounters were borderline racist, as if he were thinking, "How can people live this way. I just don't get it." Considering when the book was written, Theroux's judgmental attitude doesn't seem as much mean-spirited as subconscious in motivation, often reflecting his own culture shock.
When he isn't in that mode, however, his character depictions can be spot on, especially in his profiles of fellow tourists, some of whom seem so elitist (as he himself can be although he wisely keeps his opinions to himself rather than broadcasting them to other people on board) or these travelers can seem like barely seaworthy ships lost on the open sea. And sometimes Theroux has flashes of compassion and occasionally meets some very interesting characters who appear in one place and then reappear in another. Sometimes his depictions can be quite humorous even if they are not politically correct. But if the book had been totally politically correct, it would have been dreadfully dull.
I really admire Theroux's amazing ability to adapt to very extreme situations and settings while keeping his cool and not getting flustered, although later he admits the trip was risky and that he often courted danger. He refused to call it quits, nevertheless, though many people (locals and tourists) he encountered on the way encouraged him to do so: kind of like "You're going where, you say--oh God, that place is a total hell-hole. Turn back while you can."
The most disturbing part of the book for me was his account of the several evenings Theroux spent visiting Jorge Borges at his home in Buenos Aires. Borges came across as an insufferable snob, xenophobe, and racist. He tells Theroux that he wishes the South had beaten the North in the Civil War, that English is a much more literary language than Spanish, and that it's his English heritage that he's most proud of. I was in shock as I have always idolized Borges! Borges also revealed his love of Kipling as a great writer (which he is in some ways and Theroux admires him as well) but without seeing the neo-colonialism and patronization lurking in his works. Borges was not only blind physically but also socially and ethically, it appears. However, I'm well-aware that I'm using today's attitudes to look back on a much different time in terms of our contemporary sensitivity to certain cultural, racial, and literary issues. I will always admire Borges but perhaps not as intensely as before.
On another note, I was perplexed by the way Theroux describes certain places he visited as being backwards and barren, particularly Esquel in Chubut province of Patagonia. He does admit that it's not as bad as some of the other Patagonian stops he made, but he makes it seem like a mostly ugly, monotonous place out in the desert and with very little to recommend it. However, I did research that location more and saw pictures of it. It looked charming and inviting with a beautiful river and snow-capped mountains to the west. Again, I have to remind myself, forty years ago it probably was less appealing. Theroux regrets that he didn't take a camera on the trip, and I do too. Then we might have gotten a better idea how things were back then. But now I'm going to go back and read up on some of the other locales he spent a bit more time in and that came off as pretty awful overall. Again, maybe they used to be that way. I know from having visited Mexico in the 1960s and several times in the past ten years, it has changed tremendously in so many ways.
Still, I am glad I read this book. Even when I was flabbergasted at times at some of Theroux's comments, it was never boring and the writing always made me want to keep reading. Theroux is, in a way, a heroic figure, but one with some major flaws. It is sad to think that the months-long "train ride" he made from Boston to Esquel would be impossible to make today. The railroad has disappeared in my places and certain countries have become much more dangerous to foreigners than they once were. I definitely want to read more of his travel books.
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Reviewed in India on August 27, 2023