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528 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 1992
"Travel, which is nearly always seen as an attempt to escape from the ego, is in my opinion the opposite. Nothing induces concentration or inspires memory like an alien landscape or a foreign culture. It is simply not possible (as romantics think) to lose yourself in an exotic place. Much more likely is an experience of intense nostalgia, a harking back to an earlier stage of your life, or seeing clearly a serious mistake. What makes the whole experience vivid, and sometimes thrilling, is the juxtaposition of the present and the past-...."While he reflects on his own life, he has some unexpected encounters. This idea of "paradise" is the first to go:
"I paddled away thinking how I had once seen these islands as idyllic. I had been wrong. An island of traditional culture cannot be idyllic. It is, instead, completely itself: riddled with magic, superstition, myths, dangers, rivalries, and its old routines. You had to take it as you found it. The key to its survival was that it laughed at outsiders and kept them at arm's length.... On this visit I had felt an undercurrent of violence - and it was not only because I had been threatened. It was something in the air - a vibration, the cries of certain birds, the way the wind whipped the trees, the stifling darkness of some jungle paths, and the sudden noisy jostling in the leaves that shocked me and left me breathless."Immediately after leaving the Trobriand Islands, there was a major battle between two groups, leaving over 30 people injured and one dead. It isn't just danger that wipes out the ideal paradise - it is more frequently the European influence, the missionaries, the move away from traditional work toward junk food. (Who could ever forget the comparison between human flesh and Spam?)
"In Samoa, as in other Polynesian places, I found myself muttering against missionaries and generally rooting for heathens..."Throughout the book, Theroux also discusses the people from the original Oceania cultures in contrast to others - the large Indian populations in Fiji, Chileans on Easter Island, Australian tourists everywhere, and the Japanese in Hawaii. According to the author, family is so important that outsiders may never assimilate. I'm not sure he's right but it was an interesting perspective. It is also useful to view some of these islands from the water instead of the land - beauty, danger, perspective.
"Still, life went on in its passive Polynesian way and somehow people managed still to dance, to drink, to smoke and fish and make love."
"It was in the Trobriands that I had realized that the Pacific was a universe, not a simple ocean.A fascinating account of Paul Theroux's travel in Oceania! In this book, he visits New Zealand, Australia, Trobriand Islands (PNG), Solomon Islands, Vanuatu, Fiji, Tonga, Western Samoa and American Samoa, Tahiti, Marquesas, Cook Islands, Easter Islands and finally, Hawaii. While visiting these places, he brings along a collapsible kayak, which he sometimes uses to paddle around the islands he visits.
I especially recalled how one day sailing back to an island we were delayed, and night fell. There were stars everywhere, above us, and reflected in the sea along with the sparkle of phosphorescence streaming from the bow wave. When I poked an oar in the ocean and stirred it, the sea glittered with twinkling sea-life. We sped onward. There were no lights on shore. It was as though we were in an old rickety rocket ship.
It was an image that afterwards often came to me when I was traveling in the Pacific, that this ocean was as vast as outer space, and being on this boat was like shooting from one star to another, the archipelagos like galaxies, and the islands like isolated stars in an empty immensity of watery darkness, and this sailing was like going slowly from star to star, in vitreous night."