The khinkali dumpling gets a modern makeover at Kinkally

THERE are many twists to the story of Kinkally, a new Georgian restaurant in Charlotte Street, Fitzrovia.

The first is to their signature dish, the khinkali dumpling, which is known for its distinctive twisted shape. At Kinkally, this pastry gets a modern makeover – with colourful doughs and surprising fillings.

A second twist was in delays to the opening, during which their new chef had to visit eight countries in a desperate quest to pass the English exam required by his work visa.

This journey inspired their Nomad cocktail, served in the downstairs bar called Kinky.

This is the first restaurant from Diana Militski, who was inspired by trips to Georgia.

She has renovated a site in Charlotte Street once occupied by Herman ze German, hiring top architects to transform the space.

Step inside and the atmosphere is elegant, minimalist, and sophisticated. The designers describe an interplay between wood and stone and drawing inspiration from the Caucasus Mountains.

We started with a drink downstairs, cleverly lit with spotlights in various pops of colour.

The bar is bathed in a soft red and orange light, behind which a team of skilled young bartenders mix an ambitious menu of drinks.

The Artist, for example, is a shake-up of east London vodka, cherry, thyme and goat’s cheese; the Mastery a blend of east London gin, cucumber, sesame and Tonka beans.

Upstairs, we took our seats for a procession of small plates followed by the dumplings – the star of the show.

The menu here lifts traditional dishes to a new level, using plenty of technical skill.

One dish featured chunks of beetroot cooked in such a way that their texture became firm and squidgy – reminiscent of a wine gum. These were served with a cherry plum sour sauce and wild mint.

A rabbit pâté was smooth and rich, scooped into a quenelle then topped with cubes of poached quince. This came with a sweet bread called nazuki, infused with cinnamon, nuts and raisins.

The wine list includes three Georgian wines by the glass that are well worth a try.

Georgia is often described as the birthplace of winemaking. We enjoyed a complex orange wine fermented in the traditional quevri, a huge clay vessel that is buried underground.

The dumplings are smaller in size than those you might find across Georgia. The chef plays with different colours and stripes in the dough. Fillings might include mussels with braised leeks and a limoncello foam or Wagyu beef with a peppercorn plum sauce.

We enjoyed eating them messily with our fingers, although chopsticks or a knife and fork are also available.

In the wrong hands, a highly styled venue like Kinkally could feel intimidating to some.

But the staff here are extremely friendly and clued-up – making a heroic effort to explain the drinks and dishes.

If you are curious about Georgian food – served with a twist – then Kinkally should be top of your list.

Kinkally
43 Charlotte Street, W1T
www.kinkally.co.uk
@kinkally.restaurant
@bar.kinky