IT was nearly 16 years ago that Joe Swiers and Ollie Pudney took on a 150-year-old, run-down pub in Dartmouth Park and decided they could make something new.

The Bull and Last had long enjoyed a brilliant location, and had been popular with a mix of clientele ranging from muddy-knee’d Sunday morning footballers coming freshly sweaty from the Heath, muddy-booted dog walkers, and nightly visits from neighbours seeking a pint to wash the day’s efforts away.

The wave of swanky Sunday lunches served up in the ubiquitous NW5 gastro-pub’s had bypassed the old place, and its interior had gone from being ironically historic to simply shabby and, frankly, a little bit smelly.

In come Ollie and Joe, and The Bull – a once favoured resting place for weary travellers heading in or out of London – now had publicans who had a firm idea of what they liked, could see its potential and had the know-how to take a dream and turn it into reality.

Now, 15 years later, they are still at the helm and have created a landmark that has a clientele who return frequently and brings in visitors from a London-wide catchment area, such is its reputation.

The ground-floor bar still has that lovely pub vibe, with the thrum of conversation only kept down by the contented dining that halts chat.

Upstairs, the quieter dining room is a space for parties, or a more tete-a-tete experience with a carefully selected dining partner.

Finding a route from starter, main to dessert requires some technique: combinations offer different paths to a Epicurean experience and ending at a destination labelled satisfied.

The sharp leaves of a puntarelle and radicchio salad is offset by the more mellow tastes and textures of goat’s curd and parmesan. Hazelnuts add another layer and an aged balsamic dressing gave the last mouthfuls a puddle to swim through while being chased by a keen fork.

Unable to ever walk past Burrata when on a menu, this ball of creamy indulgence was served up on a grilled Asparagus Salad, Parsley Oil & Nasturtiums – the al dente asparagus providing a contrast to the collapsing ball of dairy decadence.

For the seafood fan, you cannot overlook the fish board, which comes with a delicate, house-cured Gravalax, a jumble of flavour and texture in their fish and prawn croquette, and finished off with a surprisingly light smoked Mackerel Pate and Brown Crab. Alongside this oceanic extravaganza, further contrasts come via a fennel and pickled cucumber salad, all scooped onto a slice of crispy-crusted soda bread.

Staying with fish, a barbecued cod as a main course is offset with the richness of a trout caviar butter, served in a little jug for you to liberally – or carefully, depending your gluttony levels – pour over. Shimeji mushrooms alongside a gently steamed side of calvo nero completes the meal. One suspects the calvo nero was wafted through some lemon and butter – it melted deliciously for a brassica.

When you consider the care taken over every aspect of the Bull, it is not surprising Ollie and Joe have ignored the temptation so many independents fall for – seeing that their vision works and deciding to do it all over again at a second site, and then a third… No matter how well paved the road of good intentions may be, by keeping their focus on the Bull, they have created a place that never falls below the high standards they have set and attracts return diners to sample an ever changing seasonal menu that never dips in quality.

And the Bull has added another string to its bow. Upstairs, seven beautiful en suite bedrooms have been created: out-of-towners come and stay with Heath views, residents in the area use it for visiting relatives and friends, and sometimes people living nearby have treated themselves to a night away while remaining home from home.

The Bull was once a major coaching inn on the road north from London: by converting upper rooms into places to stay, it remains true to its original use – though one suspects the giant feather mattresses are possibly a step up in comfort from what weary stagecoach travellers lay down in.

For those staying overnight and the morning trade, they do a breakfast that one suspects might not push you out the door and off to work – but instead encourage you to linger, groaning gently like an overfed Bull Seal, so might not be one for those with places to go and people to meet.

For Sundays, the Bull rolls out a roast that takes this traditional meal and supercharges it.

Choose from either a roast English Lamb Rump, or a Sirloin of Shorthorn Beef, obviously with all the trimmings. For the vegetarian, a fusion dish – Aubergine Parmigiana Wellington – comes as a main. And on Sundays, beer=battered haddock with chips and mushy peas competes for your attention with a shorthorn prime rib for two.

The Bull has managed to maintain everything a decent pub needs: a great selection of beers, ales and wine, a comfortable setting without being stuffy, an atmosphere of deep conversations and thoughtful silences, and with the added bonus of serving Michelen-level menus.

168 Highgate Road,
NW51QS
020 7267 3641
www.thebullandlast.co.uk