Muscats and Topaques (formerly Tokays) from Rutherglen are internationally recognized for their unique style and quality. The majority of Rutherglen's vineyards are concentrated in the northern half of the region, where the Murray river separates it from New South Wales. The region surrounds the eponymous town of Rutherglen with approximately 780 hectares (1,930 acres) of vineyard area.
History of Rutherglen
In line with Victoria as a whole, vines were first planted in Rutherglen during the gold rush era, which began in 1851. The region boasts some of the oldest wineries in the country, which kept their winemaking alive during the dark days of phylloxera infestation and economic downturn. It was one of the very few areas to adopt precautionary measures against phylloxera by replanting vineyards with resistant rootstocks.
Modern-day Rutherglen vineyards are a mix of tradition and technological advances, demonstrated not only by its wine list of which ranges from the region's signature dessert wines to full-bodied reds, dry whites and sparkling wines, but also by the many new wineries which have made the region their home. Official recognition came in 1997 when Rutherglen was accorded GI (Geographical Indication) status.
Rutherglen terroir
Much of Rutherglen is a flat terrain, with the average altitude above sea level only reaching 550ft (170m). This, along with its inland location, makes the region's climate markedly continental. The very hot summer temperatures as well as ample sunshine hours of Rutherglen are ideal for achieving the required must weight for fortified wines.
The soil is largely alluvial in nature, thanks to deposits from the Murray river. A majority of the fortified wine which the region is famous for are grown on the lower slops of the hills where the soil is relatively an infertile loam. Closer to the Murray River, the predominate soil type is a fine sandy loam with a medium to heavy clay content that provides water retention.
Rutherglen's fortified categories
The regions foritified wines may be be labelled with the following terms, if meeting the associated requirements. They broadly respond to richness, complexity and age:
- Rutherglen: A blend of wines that average 3-5 years old with 180-220 grams per litre (24-29 oz/gal) of residual sugar.
- Classic: An average of 6-10 years old with 200-280 g/l (26.7-37.4 oz/gal) of residual sugar.
- Grand: An average age of 11-19 years with 270-400 g/l (36-53.4 oz/gal) of residual sugar.
- Rare: Minimum 20 years of barrel-aging with 270-400 g/l (36-53.4 oz/gal) of residual sugar.
Fortified Muscat
The most noble Muscat variety, the dark-skinned Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains, is used to produce Rutherglen's world-famous fortified wines. This grape variety is so intrinsic to the region's profile that it is more commonly referred to as Rutherglen Brown Muscat.
These fortified wines display a richness and depth which is almost unparalleled. The unique winemaking process involves a slow and oxidative barrel-ageing which imparts a complex array of flavors variously described as caramel, toffee, butterscotch, sweet spices, molasses, tea liquor and cassis liqueur.
Topaque (formerly Tokay)
Muscadelle is the other important grape variety here, used to make a unique style of fortified wine. The premium examples can be as good as the region's Muscat wines, if not better.
These wines were formerly labelled as Tokays, due to a misidentification of the variety and belief the variety came from Hungary's Tokaj region. In 2007 Rutherglen producers began to rename the style to the trademarked 'Topaque', to meet the terms of the Australia-European Community Agreement on Trade in Wine, which came into force in 2010.
Tawny and ruby
These are fortified wines made from red grapes; typically Shiraz, Grenache and Durif, along with some Spanish and Portuguese varieties. Tawnies are extensively aged and oxidate to lose color. Some producers such as Morris make Classic, Grand and Rare Tawnies.
A ruby fortified is barrel aged for a shorter period. It is therefore most likely to be seen at Rutherglen level (see above).
Table wines
Among Rutherglen's table wines, Shiraz leads the way, with deep-colored and full-bodied wines – often with higher than average alcohol levels. Select vignerons of Rutherglen produce the quintessential Australian wine style of Sparkling Shiraz. Other red varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon and regional specialties such as Durif and Mondeuse, which are often blended with Shiraz.
