I can’t believe it’s taken me so long to visit Morges! Even when I lived in nearby Nyon for a year and pretty much visited all the picturesque villages around Lake Geneva, I thoroughly managed to overlook this handsome small town with its gorgeous lakeside promenade. Shame on me!

Strolling through Morges

From the train station I meandered down toward the lake and into the heart of the old town. Grand-Rue is car free and a joy to wander along, drop in and out of small boutiques, artisan stores and galleries or just window shops.

Chocoholics find handmade chocolate delicacies with the finest ingredients at the Confectionery Fornerod L’Arlequin (Grand-Rue 58 – right next to the Alexis-Forel museum.) Locals come here to buy their croissants, to have their morning coffee and read the newspaper or even meet for lunch in the tearoom or on the terrace.

Grand-Rue in the pretty town of Morges on Lake Geneva, Western Switzerland At the east end of the car-free Grand-Rue is the protestant church with its light filled interior. It features a glass portrait of the Swiss reformer Huldrych Zwingli.

Morges was a prehistoric settlement with pile-dwellings dating back to the Neolithic period. Then, in 1286 Luois de Savoy built the four tower castle and founded the city of Morges. During the Middle Ages it was the seasonal residence of the court of Savoy and the seat of the Bernese bailiff until the Canton Vaud (VD) became independent of Bern in 1803.

Some of its remarkable facades are reminders of the early modern era, like the Hôtel de ville. The Town Hall is the oldest public building of its type in the Canton Vaud and was built between 1515 and 1520. Audrey Hepburn married here in 1969.

Then, walking down toward the Tourist Office and the Castle Morges, the lovely window display and the little table pulled into “La Bôite a Thé” (Grand-Rue 97), a charming little store chock full with tea from all around the world as well as an impressive display of tea cups and théières (tea pots), and candles. Chairs and tables in the back of the store invite you to linger and try some tea and maybe a gelato.

The Castle of Morges

Morges Castle was built by the Savoy and was their summer residence and the seat of the Bernese Bailiff in the Middle Ages – Morges, Switzerland Morges Castle, built by the Count of Savoy in 1286

Morges Castle is a typical example of the Savoyard quadrangular building style with four hefty towers at each corner, one of them larger than the rest. It was the seat of the Bernese bailiff in the middle ages and now houses four military museums, one of them featuring over 10,000 pewter figurines.

The Elegant Lake Promenade

The lake promenade exudes an air of elegance and sweet idleness. You can walk from here practically without interruption along Lake Geneva to Lausanne. The pretty, flower-filled town has a privileged location on Lake Geneva.

The houses along the Lake Promenade in Morges exude an old world charm. The long quay directly on the lake from the marina all the way to the “Parc de Vertou” at the east end of Morges is dedicated to the Russian composer Igor Stravinsky who lived here with his family between 1915 and 1917 in a stately villa close by the lake, now transformed into a beautiful high-end B&B, the “Maison d’Igor”.

Every year, thousands of Dahlias – approximately 100 varieties – decorate the scenic shoreline from July to October between the “Temple de Morges” and the “Parc de Vertou”.

On this sunny mid-October day, flowers were still blooming, the trees had not yet changed their colour, the lake was sparkling, and the mooring boats were slightly swaying in the wind. The Savoy Alps and Mont-Blanc massif glistening in the distance beyond the lake. People were wandering along the quays, playing chess on a grand checkerboard in the park or sitting on benches and soaking up the rays of the warm sun. Teenagers were sitting on the sidewalk, enjoying themselves and exchanging their secrets.

The Belle Époque Casino in Morges

The Belle-Époque building of the Casino Morges dates back to 1900 and is a mixture of neo-Baroque, neo-Louis XV and neo-modernism. It’s a bit of a hotchpotch of building styles but it does exude great charm with its richly decorated façade and the iron balustrades. It houses a restaurant, bar, stage, and a gallery. Opposite the Casino is a pier, which is a very important turning point for the time of freight train transport. These days it is a stop for a recreational cruise on Lake Geneva.

Lake promenade in Morges, Switzerland. In a distance, the galley ‘La Liberté’ the only seafaring galley in the world and the biggest sailing boat on European lakes – Lake Geneva

The large white sails of the galley “La Liberté ” which anchors off Morges were already stored away for the season (you can see it in the picture above in the distance behind the girls). The imposing 55m long wooden vessel is a masterpiece in shipbuilding. It was built in 1992 by unemployed craftsmen and fashioned after a 17th century model under the guidance of architect Jean-Pierre Hirt. It is the only seafaring galley in the world and the biggest sailing boat on European lakes. It’s in service between May and October.

I sat down on a bench, my eyes gazing dreamily over the peaceful deep blue lake to the Savoy Alps, and I daydreamed of eras gone by. The atmosphere along the quays was such that I easily could imagine myself sauntering along the quays in the early 20th century, wearing something fancy with an elaborate hat, and a sun umbrella in my hand. After an ‘exhausting walk’ along the shore I’d sit myself down in the garden of the Mont Blanc Hotel for afternoon tea.

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The Lake Geneva Region, Switzerland

Good to Know

Where in Switzerland is Morges?

The “City of Flowers” lies on the shore of Lake Geneva between Lausanne and Geneva in the French speaking part of Switzerland.

Morges is a town in the wine region on Lake Geneva 15 minutes by train from Lausanne

Getting there

  • By train: Morges is only a 15minute train ride from Lausanne and 30 minutes from Geneva;
  • By Car: Via A1, Exit Morges – 50 km from Geneva and 15 km from Lausanne;
  • By Boats: Regular cruise services in summer (winter limited tours) to and from Geneva, Nyon, Lausanne, Thonon-les-Bains, Yvoire (not all boats run every day, so do check availability on the Lake Geneva boating website)
  • Nearest Airport: “Geneva Cointrin” 40 minutes by direct train.

Getting around

The whole region is well connected by train and buses. The town itself is quite small and easy to explore by foot;

The little Train of Morges operates between Easter and the end of September. They also offer a tour through the vineyards.

Museums

  • Alexis Forel Museum houses a doll and toy collection and furniture form the 16th to the 19th century. It’s housed in a beautiful historic building: Grand-Rue 54;
  • Castle Morges: brimming with history with its four museums – military, artillery, police and historic pewter figurines – open March to October;
  • Paderewski Museum: dedicated to the Polish musical heritage. Ignacy Jan Pederewski and Henryk Opienski – both famous Polish composers – spent time in Morges: Centre Culturel, Place du Casino 1;
  • Bolle Foundation: engravings, postcards, photographs and a special exhibition commemorates Audrey Hepburn who lived in nearby Tolochenaz for 30 years: Place du Port 1.

Restaurants

You won’t get hungry in Morges. From local fairs to fabulous Chinese cuisine, from a quick tasty kebab at the Turkish take-out to tarts, sandwiches and chocolates, no tummy will have a reason to growl. Many restaurants have terraces or outdoor seating on the streets.

For the chocoholics – Chocolatier Fornerod, Grand-Rue 58

For the serious gourmet. And by the way, the canton Vaud is one of the top gastronomic areas in Switzerland. Two of the most prestigious gourmet temples are found nearby:

l’Hôtel de Ville in Crissier: Frédy Girardet was a “Chef of the century” and his successor – BenoÎt Violier – is well under way to become one. Three MICHELIN stars – unique cuisine: Rue d’Yverdon 1, 1023 Crissier, Telephone :+41 21 634 05 05

Ermitage Bernard and Ruth Ravet: Just a short walk from the Vufflens-le-Château train station is another gourmet temple, the Relais & Châteaux Ermitage which also offers charming hotel rooms: Route du Village 26, Vufflens-le-Château, Telephone +41 (0)21 804 68 68

Stay overnight in this pretty town

Morges makes a great base for exploring the Lake Geneva region and the La Cote vineyards between Morges and Nyon, the Lavaux Vineyards between Lausanne and Montreux (Swiss Riviera) and even the Valais vineyards – particularly between Sion and Sierre.

The town is easy to navigate on foot and by car and nice hotels and B&Bs are close enough to the train station for visitors arriving by public transport.

***Romantik Hotel Mont Blanc is located at a privileged site on the shore of Lake Geneva. Get a room toward the lakefront for great views. Keep in mind that this Hotel was built before large bathrooms were ‘en vogue’, and the rooms themselves are on the smaller side too. Classic, old-world charm. Centrally located and great for an evening stroll on the lake or arrival by boat. Although it has a lift, I would not recommend it for people who rely on wheelchairs at all times due to the small bathrooms.

B&B La Maison d’Igor: Its 8 rooms were beautifully restored in 2012, and the “Maison de MaÎtre” was once the residence of Igor Stravinsky who lived and composed here. The property includes a beautiful garden toward the lake and a restaurant – a perfect getaway. Rue St-Domingue 2, (corner “Avenue des Paquis” – bus stop #702 “St Dominque”).