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Julia Roberts and Armie Hammer in "Mirror Mirror," featuring costumes by Eiko Ishioka. The Snow White fantasy is one of five nominees for this year's Academy Award for Best Costume Design.
By CBSNews.com senior producer David Morgan
A regal costume for "Mirror Mirror."
The designs for the Snow White fantasy, which range from the outrageous to the sublime, were created by visual artist Eiko Ishioka, who won an Oscar for "Bram Stoker's Dracula." She had worked with director Tarsem Singh on three earlier films: "The Cell," "The Fall" and "Immortals."
Julia Roberts in "Mirror Mirror." Costume design by Eiko Ishioka.
It was Ishioka's last film before her death in January 2012. "She was born outside the box," said director Tarsem Singh. "She didn't just design pieces of clothing, she created works of art."
Lily Collins in "Mirror Mirror." Costume design by Eiko Ishioka.
"Every director is always trying to get people to think differently," said director Singh. "You never had to tell [Ishioka] that. Everything about her was unconventional, even her research and how she did it, and how much of it she did."
Lily Collins on the set of "Mirror Mirror." Costume design by Eiko Ishioka.
Julia Roberts and Lily Collins in "Mirror Mirror." Costume design by Eiko Ishioka.
Michael Lerner and Kathleen Fee in "Mirror Mirror." Costume design by Eiko Ishioka.
Makeup and hairstyle artist Felicity Bowring said her work was an outgrowth of Ishioka's costume concepts. "Everything stems from Eiko's designs," Bowring said. "It was delicious to work with her vibrant colors. Imagine people wearing vivid red, yellow, orange, green, hot pink and silver all in the same scene."
Julia Roberts in "Mirror Mirror." Costume design by Eiko Ishioka.
Creating wardrobe that was both fantastical and believable for the fable "Snow White and the Huntsman" was the task of Colleen Atwood, who received her tenth Academy Award nomination for costume design. She had previously been nominated for "Little Women," "Beloved," "Sleepy Hollow," "Lemony Snicket's A Series of Unfortunate Events," "Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street," and "Nine," and won Oscars for "Chicago," "Memoirs of a Geisha," and "Alice in Wonderland."
Charlize Theron in "Snow White and the Huntsman." Costume design by Colleen Atwood.
Atwood's designs incorporated materials from across the globe -- fabrics from Turkey, beetle shells from Thailand, sequins from China, and chain mail constructed in India. Jewelry from designer Cathy Waterman was also selected.
Charlene Theron in "Snow White and the Huntsman." Costume design by Colleen Atwood.
The cruel queen Ravena is dressed in 12 major costumes throughout the film, each handmade, requiring hundreds of hours of labor.
Kristen Stewart in "Snow White and the Huntsman." Costume design by Colleen Atwood.
The layered dress Snow White wears for most of the film is made from suede that complements Stewart's eye color.
As Snow White prepares for battle at the film's end, she dons a suit of armor, assembled from whatever the young woman found at hand. Atwood's design of a piecemeal suit "is not supposed to look like a slick, pulled-together suit," she said. "She can ride and fight in it, but there are very subtle clues that tell the audience that it has been thrown together in haste. There are leg pieces missing and the whole costume is not symmetrical."
The costume for the Huntsman (Chris Hemsworth) was practical attire made from rough organic materials that a hunter would find -- layers of animal skins, and a big, heavy coat that can be used as a blanket on which to sleep. Atwood also created a belt for knives and a rig for carrying (and easily unholstering) a double-axe.
Keira Knightley and director Joe Wright on the set of "Anna Karenina." Costume design by Jacqueline Durran.
Wright presented the adaptation of the Tolstoy romance as if performed on a theatrical stage. His decision to base the actors' wardrobe on 1950s fashion merely accentuated the stylization of the settings.
Durran's designs are of the style of '50s couture, but also maintain the silhouettes of the 1870s. "We associate 1950s couture with chic elegance, and so this would be a signifier to the audience and a way in for them to the image [the director] wants conveyed," said Durran.
Keira Knightley in "Anna Karenina." Costume design by Jacqueline Durran, who received her third Oscar nomination for the 19th century romantic drama. She had previously received nominations for "Pride & Prejudice" and "Atonement."
The image of Russian aristocrat Anna was exemplified by French clothes. Durran researched Balenciaga and Dior, and in one scene dressed Knightley in jewelry borrowed from Chanel valued at $2 million.
Keira Knightley in "Anna Karenina." Costume design by Jacqueline Durran.
"A lot of 1950s couture was itself looking back to an earlier time," said Durran. "We looked at some images from the time next to fashion pictures from the 1870s and although they were eight decades apart, the two periods meshed together very well."
Keira Knightley on the set of "Anna Karenina." Costume design by Jacqueline Durran.
"Anna's thematic scheme of color is dark -- particularly with the red she wears at the beginning, in the Karenin home," Durran said. "What she wears becomes somewhat lighter in tone when she becomes enraptured with Vronsky, before returning to the darker hues as she becomes anxious and paranoid that his affections towards her have waned."
Aaron Taylor-Johnson as Vronsky and Alicia Vikander as Kitty in "Anna Karenina." Costume design by Jacqueline Durran.
Olivia Williams as Countess Vronsky and Keira Knightley as Anna in "Anna Karenina." Costume design by Jacqueline Durran.
Aaron Taylor-Johnson as Vronsky and Keira Knightley as Anna, wearing a jet black taffeta ball gown, in "Anna Karenina." Costume design by Jacqueline Durran.
Jude Law as Karenin in "Anna Karenina." Costume design by Jacqueline Durran.
Law's costumes were simplified versions of tsarist uniforms of the late 19th century. Simplicity -- alluding to an air of monasticism -- was also reflected in his dressing gown and nightshirt.
Keira Knightley in "Anna Karenina." Costume design by Jacqueline Durran.
A ballroom sequence in "Anna Karenina." Costume design by Jacqueline Durran.
The female dancers' pastel-colored ball gowns were faintly tinted, as if decaying -- representing the decay of aristocratic society.
Aaron Taylor-Johnson as Vronsky and Alicia Vikander as Kitty in "Anna Karenina." Costume design by Jacqueline Durran.
Count Vronsky's uniforms -- pale blue and pure white -- helped the character stand out from others, as did the actor's blonde hair and blue eyes.
Cast members take a break during filming of "Anna Karenina." Costume design by Jacqueline Durran.
Amanda Seyfried as Cosette in "Les Miserables." Costume design by Paco Delgado, who received his first Academy Award nomination.
A theater and opera designer, Delgado also created costumes for the films "Biutiful," starring Javier Bardem, and Pedro Almodovar's "The Skin I Live In," starring Antonio Banderas.
A scene from "Les Miserables." Costume design by Paco Delgado.
Delgado's inspiration for the film's costumes included the works of Eugene Delacroix and Francisco de Goya, mixing historical accuracy with surrealism to represent characters of every social strata -- rich and poor, criminals and the law, sacred and profane. "Because this is a musical, and that's an unreal situation in life, we had to put some fantasy into it," said Delgado.
Anne Hathaway as Fantine in "Les Miserables." Costume design by Paco Delgado.
Dressed in muslin, Fantine looks neat and refined (for a factory worker, that is), but as she becomes more degraded, her costumes "are degraded into filthiness," Delgado said. To underscore the character's consumption, he used clingy fabrics and painted the sides of Hathaway's costumes with darker colors.
Helena Bonham Carter as Madame Thenardier in "Les Miserables." Costume design by Paco Delgado.
Samantha Barks as Eponine in "Les Miserables." Costume design by Paco Delgado.
Hugh Jackman as Valjean in "Les Miserables." Costume design by Paco Delgado.
Delgado said Jean Valjean's wardrobe reflects his slow climb from prisoner to success. "At the beginning, he is a convict with almost no expectations, and he has texture in every sense -- in his rough clothes and his beard," Delgado said. "Little by little, he starts getting more sophisticated and socially accepted, and we have less texture and more fine materials. In terms of color, he comes into a much more sophisticated palette."
Daniel Day-Lewis as President Abraham Lincoln, in Steven Spielberg's historical drama "Lincoln." Costumes by Joanna Johnston, who received her first Academy Award nomination.
Secretary of State William Steward (David Strathairn) hires the "Gang of Three" -- Schell (Tim Blake Nelson), Latham (John Hawkes), and Bilbo (James Spader) -- to secure votes in Congress in the historical drama "Lincoln." Costumes by Joanna Johnston.
Daniel Day-Lewis in "Lincoln." Costumes by Joanna Johnston.
"The president, he did like shawls -- a lot of men wore shawls at that time," Johnston said. She left it to Day-Lewis on when he would wear the shawl -- and acceded to his opinion when he deemed one shawl that Johnston designed as too immodest.
A scene from the period drama "Lincoln." Costumes by Joanna Johnston.
Johnston's eclectic resume includes "Hellraiser," "Who Framed Roger Rabbit," "Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade," "Back to the Future Parts II and III," "Far and Away," "Forrest Gump," "Saving Private Ryan" and "Valkyrie."
Sally Field as first lady Mary Todd Lincoln and Tommy Lee Jones as abolitionist Thaddeus Stevens in "Lincoln." Costumes by Joanna Johnston.
"Mary Todd Lincoln loved purples, blues, lilacs and creams and pinks -- those were her main colors that she was very keen on," Johnston said.
Sally Field as Mary Todd Lincoln, in "Lincoln." Costumes by Joanna Johnston.
The women characters' dresses were treasures, Johnston said, "because there were so few of them."
"I think in the end we had about 140 principal actors," Johnston said. "On normal films you have about 45, 50. It was a lot. I don't quite know how we did it."
Beyond the five Academy Award nominees, other costume designs were honored this year, with the announcement on Thursday, Jan. 18, 2013, of nominees for the 15th annual Costume Designers Guild Awards. Unlike the Oscars, the Guild nominates films in three separate categories -- period, fantasy and contemporary -- allowing for 15 nominated films in all.
Among the five nominees in the fantasy category was a film which actually stretched hundreds of years in time: "Cloud Atlas," with designs by Kym Barrett and Pierre-Yves Gayraud. Pictured at left are costumes for the film's futuristic scenes set in Neo-Seoul.
Another Costume Designers Guild Award nominee in the fantasy category is Judianna Makovsky's designs for "The Hunger Games."
Ann Maskrey, Richard Taylor and Bob Buck received a Costume Designers Guild Award nomination in the fantasy category for the J.R.R. Tolkien adventure, "The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey."
In the period category, along with Oscar nominees "Anna Karenina," "Les Miserables" and "Lincoln," is the quixotic Wes Anderson tale "Moonrise Kingdom." Costume design by Kasia Walicka-Maimone.
Late '70s fashion made a comeback in the drama "Argo," starring Alan Arkin and Ben Affleck. Jacqueline West was a Costume Designers Guild Award nominee in the period category.
Mark Bridges was a Costume Designers Guild Award nominee in the contemporary category for "Silver Linings Playbook."
Quvenzhane Wallis as Hushpuppy in "Beasts of the Southern Wild." Stephani Lewis was a Costume Designers Guild Award nominee in the contemporary category.
Berenice Marlohe as Severine in the James Bond thriller "Skyfall." Costume design by Jany Temime, a Costume Designers Guild Award nominee in the contemporary category.
Dev Patel in "The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel." Costume design by Louise Stjernsward, a Costume Designers Guild Award nominee (contemporary).
Jessica Chastain as Maya in "Zero Dark Thirty," the thriller directed by Kathryn Bigelow. Costume design by George L. Little, a nominee for the Costume Designers Guild Award in the contemporary category.
Winners of the Costume Designers Guild Awards in seven categories for film, TV and commercials will be announced February 19, 2013.
The Academy Award for Best Costume Design will be presented on February 24.