Istanbul，Turkey.05,2016

伊斯坦堡，土耳其
Istanbul，Turkey.05,2016

Please note, photos are posted and stored at my FaceBook account,please check if interested.https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587

前言-獨白
Prewords - Monologue

我是這時空的旅人，穿梭於古老的山川海洋之間，摩肩接踵來來去去的靈魂，悠遊於浩瀚不可測的人世慾望大海，彈指細數轉眼如晨露消融於溫暖陽光裡的眾多輝煌時代、雄心萬丈的帝國，我是旅人，徘迴於沒有開始，也沒有結束的生存，而停泊於在我踏上的地方...休息。

I am a traveler in this time and space,touring somewhere among ancient mountains and oceans,rubbing shoulders with numerous souls that come and go passing by me ,and loitering in the unfathomable desires of sea.I am counting ,counting the unnumbered magnificent eras and ambitious empires in history,the existence of which melted instantaneously from earth,as morning dews in the warm and bright sunshine,disappeared fast.
I am a traveler,in the existence of having no beginning nor destiny,stepping on places where are my berths...for resting.

看，這人類文明交匯的土耳其，是我今夏的假期所在地。明確的說是指伊斯坦堡和附近一些些小城市而已，度假嘛，不用那麼累。
Behold,the intersection of human civilization,Turkey, where is the place I spent for my summer vacation. To be exactly speaking,I mean Istanbul and a few towns nearby.Well,it's just for fun,so there's no need to be exhausted.

這次我要改變一下下寫作的手法，不同於印度之旅，這次會分成兩個主要部分，一部分是屬於旅遊情報性質的，讓有興趣的朋友可以參考著走即可，另一部分比較偏向參訪感想，這一部分就比較難，因為若沒有什麼事發生，就沒得寫了，看著辦吧。
I would change my writting methods distinctively from my previous India tour.This time I will write two parts.One is full of traveling information that ,if interested,you can just follow my itinerary or use it as a reference.The other will be based on true experience,but it would be difficult for me if there is nothing special happens.We'll see.

文章會PO在背包客棧 http://www.backpacker.com.tw under the author's name: 501happyme.Go check if interested.
照片和影片就比較難處理了，會慢慢PO在我的FB詳細介紹，有興趣的，請大家自己無聊的時候看看。
　　Articles will be posted at http://www.backpacker.com.tw
　　under the author's name: 501happyme.Go check if interested.
As for photos and films,they would be a tall job for me,but I will still post them gradually after sorting out my data.Please feel free to browse them whenever you feel bored.


臉書會逐漸先ＰＯ出，背包客棧會等全文告一段落才整體ＰＯ出。
Face Book comes the first for my postings,Backpacker dot come would be later,but in whole.
If interested ,please check my FB,https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587






(2).簡單歷史背景紀要/Briefly historical backdrop:

如果對旅遊地有基本的歷史演化認識，遊玩起來比較有點邏輯和了解，要與生活的周遭事物馬上關聯起來是不可能，但至少比較不會霧煞煞一頭霧水，而且更增遊覽樂趣，不過終究不是來研究歷史或相關科目，我建議稍微了解即可，對有興趣的點自己再深入收集資料閱讀。
If we have a basic knowledge about the development of Turkish history,which would help us get more fun and have logical understanding during our stay in Turkey.It's apparently impossible to associate local surroundings with us immediately,but ,at least,we wouldn't be lost and have no any clue at all about Turkey.Besides,knowing Turkish history background only adds up touring fun.However, I am not coming here to study its history or relevant subjects.If there're particular issues,I can always dip into internet for their further information.That'll be all,and you should do the same for fun.

1.歷經羅馬帝國、拜占庭帝國、和奧圖曼土耳其帝國，共122為最高權力者的統治，時間長達1600年。
Istanbul City, as a capital of Roman Emprire,Byzantine,and Ottoman Empire, has 122 rulers within the time as long as 1600 years.

2.11/5/330，羅馬帝國君士坦丁大帝遷都到此，並取名為"Byzantine"，故"東羅馬帝國"又稱為"拜占庭帝國"，絲路的終點，也是當時基督教中心，極盛時期與長安、巴格達並稱世界三大首都。
On 11th,May,330,King Constantinus of Roman Empire moved here and named it as "Byzantine".Thus,East Roman Empire is usually called as "Byzantine Empire".Istanbul was the end of Silk Road,also the religious center of Christianity.It was peered with other two cities as top 3 at that time,Chang An(now Xi An,China),and Badhdad.Iraq.

3.6/4/1204，地理位置是各方勢力的逐鹿焦點，淪為第4次十字軍東征隊之手，後帝國拿回但已元氣大傷。
On 6th,April,1204,(So we see Istanbul's geological position is very important to all powers in ancient times.)Istanbul came into the hands of Crusades for the 4th time.It was restored by Byzantine empire,but Byzantine from that on,starting to lose its control strength in this area.

4.29/5/1453，奧圖曼帝國的蘇丹穆罕默德2世攻下Constantinopol。
On 29th,May,1453,Sultan of Ottoman Empire,Mohmed II seiged and obtained Constantinopol.

5.13/10/1923，土耳其第一次世界大戰英雄凱末爾(Mustafa Kemal Ataturk)領導的國民會議遷都到安卡拉，結束伊斯坦堡為歷代王朝首都的命運。
On 13th,Oct,1923,Mustafa kemal Ataturk in World War I moved Congress to Ankara,which sealed its fate as being a capital.

6.6th,May,2016,歐盟和土耳其達成難民處理協議，土耳其每收容一位遣返的難民，歐盟就接受一位敘利亞難民，終於暫時止住如潮浪銳不可擋的難民潮，土耳其也因此向歐盟要求免簽證待遇。
EU and Turkey reach a pact that when Turkey receives a migrant deported from EU,EU will accept a Syrian refugee in exchange.Due to the latest development of migrating siutaion,this pact wards off the refugee waves temporarily,and because of this pact,Turkey is asking EU for free Visa treatment.


之後........新情勢在我旅遊東歐國家時發生的。
　　　Later on.........new development happened when I was in Eastern European countries.

[但是土耳其總理達夫托葛魯（Ahmet Davutoglu），和土耳其總統艾爾段（Recep Tayyip Erdogan）意見不和，他昨天宣布將辭去總理職務， 但是他是歐盟與土耳其就難民安置協議協商取得成果的關鍵人物，歐盟深怕協議生變，何況艾爾段與歐盟國家齟齬不斷，包括他要對嘲諷他的德國談話節目主持人提訴、日前土耳其當局也逮捕一名荷蘭記者。此外，土耳其政府對庫德族的慘忍手段、對新聞自由的戕害也一直是國際關注的焦點。]這段取自中央通訊社（The Central News Agency，簡稱中央社）。

　　 [Turkish prime minister Ahmet Davutoglu resigned yesterday,due to the disagreement with Turkish president Recep Tayyip Erdogan.However,he is the main negociator with EU,and he is the key leader to reach the pact of re-arrangement for refugees with EU.EU is worried that the pact would not be held tight.Besides,Erdogan keeps disputing with EU members,including Erdogan is suing a talk show host in German.And the other day,Turkish Authority also arrested a Dutch journalist.Plus that Turkish government is using cruel approaches to Kurdishes,and infringement of freedom of speech and media,all of these things make Turkey one of the international focuses]....excerted from The Central News Agency,translated by me for my own use only,of course.(if you have problem with this paragraph,just advise me. I will take it down at once.)


我來到北有黑海，南有馬爾馬它和愛琴海的土耳其，在這風雨飄搖的政治情勢中，今天土耳其股匯市大跌，心想人總會走出一條路的，看著蔚藍的天空下高聳的叫拜塔，我真的到了.................
Here I am in Turkey.A nation with Black Sea to its North,Marmara and Aegean Sea to its South.At the time of political turmoil,today Turkish stock market was plummeted,so was its currency.I was thinking...people always can find a way. I was looking at the pinnacle of minarets in blue sky...well,Here I am.




(3).General Points/一般重點

1.土耳其簽證/Turkish visa

現在取得土耳其簽證很簡單，只要上網訂，跟著土耳其共和國外交部電子簽證申請系統的網站(https://www.evisa.gov.tr/zh/)
的1、2、3步驟填寫相關資料就完成了，而且今年2月開始，台灣民眾不用費用，完全免費，不過要注意的是，這是30天單次進出的簽證，一年最多可以申請3次進出土國，一旦離開土耳其，就必須再上網申請以便再次進土耳其。(比如像我是把土耳其當進入歐洲的跳板，所以離開歐洲要回來土耳其接飛回台灣的班機時候，就要另行上網再申請一次Visa.，為什麼要這樣?因為我喜歡在旅程最後一站買紀念品，這樣不用帶著一堆東西跑來跑去，土耳其很好買，但一定要先比價。)
It's very easy for Taiwanese citizens to get Turkish Visa.Just get on the website of Electronic Visa Application System,Ministry of Foreign Affairs,Republic of Turkey(https://www.evisa.gov.tr/zh/),then follow the 1,2,3 steps to apply for e-visa.It'll be done instantly. And there's no fee for Taiwanese people starting in Feb,2016.Thus,it is totally free of charges.
Note that it is the Visa that offers a single entry/exit for 30 days.You can apply 3 times upmost a year.Once you get out of Turkey,you need to apply a new one to come in again.(For example,I use Turkey as a stepstone to enter Europe.So,if I want to leave Europe to get back Turkey to catch my connecting flight back to Taiwan, I need to apply a new visa for this.Why so? well,I like to shop in my last stop of journey,so I don't neet to carry my souveniors all around.Turkey is a very good place for shopping,but you must compare prices before making any payment.)



2.Exchange Rate 匯率

機場匯率最差，不要在機場換太多錢，市區到處有很多換匯商店(cash exchanger)，特別不是在觀光重點區的換匯商店所提供的匯率較好，伊斯坦堡是大都市，交通便利，電車稍微多坐個1、2站，就有很好的換匯商店，大部分在各站出口附近。
由於行前訂飯店時，飯店有提供免費接機或免費送到機場的一次性服務(要善用旅館的服務)，所以已經商請飯店免費接機，到飯店check in 後再用走的，走到附近有ATM的銀行機器換錢即可，我的附近是Ziaat Bank，走路少於10分鐘(我在番紅花城山下的市區也用ATM換錢)，注意ATM提供100Euro為單位的匯率較佳(ATM會顯示匯率，再考慮要不要換)，土耳其用Euro換比美金還好用些。但是我覺得看個人習慣，因為每次都沒有換很多錢，都是一點點，所以不用太計較，除非我每次要換個好幾千元美金再說，哈哈哈，我又不是要搬家，換那麼多幹嘛?
The exchange rate at the Ataturk airport is worse than anywhere in city.Don't exchange too much if not necessary.
There are cash exchangers everywhere.The better rate you can get is always not in the area of sightseeing spots.However,Istanbul is a metropolitan,the public transportation is convenient.Thus,just go a little bit far from those spots,then you'll find one that offers good rate.Usually,you can find cash exchangers in the streets nearby the exit/entrance of every tram or Metro stations.
I used my hotel's service to pick me up at the airport,so I didn't exchange money at the airport.(Usually,hotels would provide airport pickup or delivery to airport for free,when you order accommodation.So,take good advantage of this free service from your hotels.)After I checked in,I'd walked to nearby ATM to exchange money.There is a bank called "Ziaat Bank".It took me 10 minutes by walk to get to its ATM.(I also did this when I was in the city area in Safranbolu.).
ATM provides all information including rate to you before you make any exchange,so don't worry.Usually,people think it is more convenient in using Euros than US Dollars in Turkey, but I think it's a matter of individual habits.No need to haggle hard and care too much,unless you wanted to exchange thousands of Dollars.Hahaha, I am not moving to Turkey,why I bother myself so much for ?

我在伊斯坦堡的飯店是4星的旅館:Hotel Arcadia Blue。位置離蘇丹艾邁德廣場，走路只要3分鐘，而且也只要３分鐘就可到外面街道上的電車站T1(是伊斯坦堡最重要的公共交通動線），它的頂樓餐廳的陽台往外眺望，沒有任何建築物可以擋住，景色絕佳，另外相關常識是，所有的伊斯坦堡的建築物，高度不可以超過蘇丹艾邁德清真寺的叫拜塔的高度，任何城鎮都一體適用這個規定。

　I lived at a 4-starred hotel in Istanbul,Hotel Arcadia Blue(http://www.hotelarcadiablue.com/). It's location is superb,just took me 3 minutes to walk to Sultanahmet Square,and 3 minutes to reach T1 station (Line Tram 1-the most important transporting line.) at street outdoors.Its terrace of rooftop restaurant has no other buildings to block the panoramic view.The relevant knowledge is that,the height of all buildings in Istanbul can't excess the height of Sultanahmet Camii's minarets'.This rule is also applied to any towns and cities in Turkey.



3.Istanbul card/伊斯坦堡卡

用IST Card乘坐公共交通是最便宜的移動方式，可多人共用，但是如要搭遊輪玩博斯普魯斯海峽就不包括在內，機場有賣，或路邊書報攤、主要捷運站(如Taksim Square,Sultanahmet,Eminonu,或有頂大市場Grand Bazaar)也有購票機，或任何有寫 "Akbil"或"Dolum Noktasi" 的任何商店，也可以加值（注意加值機沒有英文，不過先放好卡，按一下紐，放錢讓他吃進去，然後就好了。哈哈哈，不知道就拜託旁邊的人幫你用一次，下次就會了。）加值機在每一站進出口都有設置。

Istanbul Card is the cheapest and efficient way to travel around Istanbul,and it can be used by a group of people together.But　it excludes taking Bosphorus Cruise(you need to buy the ticket at Eminonu ferry.)You can buy the card at the airport,or any main Metro station(like in Taksim Square,Sultanahmet,Eminonu,Grand Bazaar,etc.),or any roadside newstands or shops with words "Akbil" or "Dolum Noktasi".You also can use them for depositing more money in your card.

Please note,there is no English version on the depositing machines for your IST Card.I acted like putting my card on the pad,pressed the button,and then put my bill note into the slit,then it's done.Lol,if you don't know how to operate it,just ask people around you for demonstration once.You'll get it next time. The depositing machines are almost in each entrance or exit of each station.

若真有想搭計程車的時候，市區3.20TL起跳，每公里跳表2TL，空轉超過5分鐘後，每分鐘另加0.35TL，計程車司機有的會繞遠路，有的故意會騙日夜間價錢不同，所以可以參考下列網址，得知各點大約價錢，以防被騙，https://www.theistanbulinsider.com/istanbul-tax...tourist-ought-to-know/
If you really want to take a cab,then remember that flat rate starts from 3.2TL,then 2TL per Km.If your taxi stucks in a traffic over 5 minutes,an incremented rate of 0.35TL per minute will be charged.Go check this web page for reference,https://www.theistanbulinsider.com/istanbul-tax...tourist-ought-to-know/


我到達當天就買好了，因為第一天沒事，會先去巴士總站買好下星期要到番紅花城的來回車票，順便去看一下號稱全國最大，像百貨公司般的巴士總站長甚麼樣子。但這之前，需要先去參觀Dolma Bahce Palace，因為有每日參觀人數限制，不但要先預約，星期一和星期四又不開放，而且還限制參觀時間(25分鐘就會被踢出來了，但沒辦法，是世界遺產)，所以行前先要飯店幫忙預約，參照下面景點中的Dolma Bahce Palace項目，或在它的網站自己找找相關資訊 。
I have not many things to do on my first day in Istanbul.Thus,I'll go to book and buy my bus ticket to Safranbolu at the biggest bus headquarter in Turkey.I've heard it's like a department store having many stores in it.I'll go and check .But Before all this, I need to get on line to register a ticket for visiting Dloma Bahce Palace.Why?Because it has daily limit for visiting numbers,and it closes on every Monday and Thursday,and it only offers 10-25 minutes' short tour.Perhaps my hotel would like to book for me beforehand? I can't complain much,for it is listed as an UNESCO asset.

***補充:街頭小攤上賣的伊斯坦堡卡是空卡，必需自己到車站機器去加值，要加多少自己再決定即可，所以路邊的newstand是沒有在幫客人加值的。

4.Museum Card Istanbul

我建議，如果不是專愛參觀博物館的人，不需要買這一張，這一張在很多觀光重點都不能用，都需要另行購票（我真的有被騙的感覺），但是這張搭遊覽博斯普魯斯海峽的船有打折。
買這一張，參觀各博物館用，85TL，使用效期只有5天(120hrs)，主要是它可以在各特約商店有打折
。
上網可預訂，但官方網站 https://muze.gov.tr/buy_museum_pass 我覺得英文很差，土耳其是觀光大國但對國際觀光客在語言上不是很方便，因 為我住在聖蘇菲亞博物館附近，所以去參觀時順便買了。
I suggest ＮＯＴ to buy this card,unless you love seeing museums very much.Price 85TL,for 120hours' usage(5 days).It provides discount at participated stores,especially,It offers discount of 25% off,when taking Bosphorus Cruise. But you need to buy tickets in many important touring spots,this card is useless at all.I really felt I was scammed after I bought it.

I think its website is not so good in designs and its English version is not so good,either.Although Turkey is big for tourism,but it is not so friendly in using English for international tourists.I bought one at the ticket booth ,when I visited Sophia Church,because I lived nearby.Hahaha,a mistake.
Official website, https://muze.gov.tr/buy_museum_pass

***
相關照片 Relevant Photos,
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1570880616540246

1.Map of public transportation in Istanbul,very useful.
2.ICard01, my souvenir-a set of sparkling tea set,and Istanbul Card.
3.ICard02, my Istanbul Card,and Museum Card on the cover of a health magazine.You can see a man is peeing.....,well it is talking about prostate cancer.....Ah~hahahaha.
4.ICard03-04, Museum Cards can't be used in many places.
5.A standing sign at every station,indicating all stops and direction of that transporting line.
6.ICard06, the T1 station that nears my hotel and right beside Square.

***





5.建議大家如果沒有特殊愛好，可以選住在蘇魯克吉區，但我這種閒閒的人，我就喜歡住靠近重要景點或交通樞紐附近，交通發達的地方我就覺得沒差，但如果該地不是，就一定要選接近火車站或巴士站附近，免得走到腳斷掉。由於伊斯坦堡後，我要往保加利亞首都索非亞，不想搭飛機，所以會提早到巴士總站買票和訂位，必須提早2個星期訂比較好，火車票訂好就可以訂索菲亞的飯店，和訂要到Rila Monestary的行程。(人還在土耳其伊斯坦堡時就先辦好)。

Otogar 是巴士總站，我稍後再介紹。
到處都有飯店、餐廳、咖啡館、酒吧、市場、購物中心，都不用操心，但真的要比價，價格在不同商店、街道、或城鎮差很多，我意思是”差非常多”。

If you don't have any special preference for hotels,then I suggest it'd be better to stay in Beyoglu district.As for me, I like to stay near any famous tourist spots or transporting centers.It doesn't matter that much if local transportation developed well,but if not, then I must choose somewhere near main train stations or bus headquarter.So that I wouldn't walk too much till I my legs break.
I will go on my journey to Sofia,Bulgaria after Istanbul,Turkey,and I choose to take bus.So I will go to buy and book my ticket and reserve seat earlier by 2 weeks around.After all the chores,I then can book my hotel in Sofia and buy the one-day tour to Rila Monestary(I will get all these things done,while I am still in Instanbul.)

　 Otogar is the bus headquarter.I will introduce it later.
　　 Hotels ,restaurants,cafes,bars,markets,and shopping malls are everywhere.Don't worry anything.However,you really need to compare prices,for the pricing at different stores , streets ,or towns vary very much.I meant "very much".

***
相關照片 Relevant Photos,

RoofTop views from hotel (http://www.hotelarcadiablue.com/).

VfRT01-12,views.
VfRT13-14,outside street.
VfRT15-16,yoghurt and honey hotel provides.Turkey is also famous for its Yoghurt products.God,Turkey has many excellent products with inexpensive price.
VfRT17-20,extra photos.
***



未完，待續。　continuing.....

Updated information,即時更新02.Aug.2016

政變約在7月15，16日開始，雖然很快的歷經失敗，平息，但是重新站穩腳跟的土耳其總統Erdogan，卻開始限制言論自由，清除異己，將軍中，司法等體系全部洗牌一番，我在7/26又重新回到了伊斯坦堡，而停留的時間，伊斯坦堡市內所有公共交通一律免費(7,26-28晚上24:00止)，是政府變相的鼓勵民眾自由上街頭支持 Erdogan，是變相的操縱演給西方領袖看，"瞧瞧，民眾是多麼的支持我"，同一時間，我個人認為是親 Erdogan在德國移民的組織發動在科隆的支持土耳其示威遊行，以便塞住自由民主世界對 Erdogan在政變之後，不人道的清除異己，和宣佈戒嚴的批評，雖然宣布了三個月的戒嚴，但我個人認為土耳其的民主和自由正遭受危害，Erdogan有可能在個人私慾上要將權力一把掌握，從而使土耳其變成一個獨裁的國家，當初民眾上街是為了維護得來不易的民主自由，現在卻被當權者利用、扭曲，我祈禱我的土耳其朋友們都平安，希望事情可以很快地回復，目前街頭大致安定，沒甚麼問題，但是，有要到土耳其玩的台灣朋友，入夜後(約晚上8、10點後吧)，沒事，這段時間暫時就不要出門去了，特別是女性朋友。


It all started on 15th or 16th,July,the coup failed,now it's calmed fast.However,after Turkish president Erdogan regained his power,he turned his claws to limit the freedom of speech ,and wash away all dissidents in millitary and juridicial system,with un-justified means.
I was back to Istanbul on 26th,July.During my short period of stay, all public transportation in Istanbul was free(26,July -28 July,till 24:00).I think it was Turkish government encouraging people going up to streets to let western leaders(who criticize him much.) know ,"look at this, my people who support and love me so much.They are not afraid at all,so they all come out to show it."
Meanwhile,I personally think it was the Turkish people or individuls or migrating institutes in Koln,Germany,who held the street demonstration to show the supports to the current Turkish government,especially to Erdogan himself,in order to silence westerners' critisim about his cruel and inhumanitarian means of oppressing dissidents and releasing 3 months' curfew. Even though it is only for 3 month's restraint in freedom,but I again personally think Turkish Freedom and democracy is in jeopardy.Erdogan could hold every power based on his individul desires and then turn Turkey into an autocratic country.
I think ,when people went on streets to protest the coup at the very beginning,they were simply wanting to protect the freedom and democracy that are hard to get in the past.Now they are kind of being used,and the purpose to serve democracy and freedom is twisted by current political power
I sincerely pray for my Turkish friends to be safe and peaceful,and wish all the turmoil would be calmed down and things would be restored back to its normal condition soon.
So far,there's no problem at all on the Istanbul streets.It seems situation is under controlled and normal.But,if any Taiwanese friends who want to travel in Turkey,please remember if there's no other particular things you need to take care, then you'd better stay at hotel and not go out after night falls (8 or 10 pm)for the time being.Especially for the security of female.


(4).Main tourist spots and activities 主要觀光景點和活動。

1.蘇丹艾哈邁德廣場/公園Sultanahmet Square

這區有T1站直接停廣場旁邊(或者你要稱公園也可以，古代是賽馬場兼體育館)，路上被切劃成一條條的電車線，配上架空劃過頂頭天空的電纜，不免慶幸高雄輕軌採用較新型的電車設計，不然感覺活動空間都是一條條的線分隔開，而沒有一眼望去無遮無擋的清明。這個地方是很多著名景點的集中地，是一定必到之處，兩旁商店當然林立，餐廳、咖啡廳、百貨、shopping malls、糕餅店、換匯店、雜貨店、小攤販、各式各樣商店都有，走路逛街是必然，一下子不用幾分鐘又到了T1的下一站了，因為站與站的距離也不遠，因此，如果你是急驚風的性格，只怕不需要在伊斯坦堡停太多天就玩完了，但是，我是不可以，因為千里而來，還是算辛苦的，旅遊不是要像孫悟空(magic monkey)在如來佛手中寫"到此一遊"，也不要像集郵，到一個地方就蓋一個章，然後當自己來過了，而是要慢慢體會，希望將自己的靈魂與該地能做一個完善的交流，沒有美化，沒有幻想，而是享受短暫但切切實實的生活時光。這天，清晨4點多一些，我太過順利就到達飯店了，暫時還不能入住(飯店都約12:00中午才可以)，行李一丟就先到廣場去了，五月的清早，很冷，風又大，但是整個公園幾乎沒有其他人，迎面而來歡迎我的卻是幾隻狗狗，直接接近我，還以為是流浪犬，正心中警戒，忽然發現每隻左耳都有一個小圓形的塑膠片的東西，應該是類似晶片的身分證吧，才發現是公家養的，像是對我表示友善，要帶路似的，我也就跟著它們往廣場的方向去了，當然手機一拿就亂拍了，美景在沒有觀光客的阻擾下，格外美麗，心情很高興，整個廣場就我一人在玩，沒有雜音，沒有管制，彷彿是另一個世界，完全忘了，就上幾個星期而已，一群德國觀光客才在廣場的其中一個紀念碑被恐怖份子炸死，流連忘返了2個多小時，反正要留很多天，就回去拜託看看飯店是否可以讓我提早Check in,是不行，但飯店送我到頂樓餐廳免費用早餐，感恩。



You can reach this area by taking T1.A stop is right beside the park(an ancient horse-racing arena or stadium).
I saw the roads cut by train rails,along with the cable wires across sky,that making the space be separated by a line after another,and which made my sight to the far end being blocked to some extent.Thinking then,it was a good thing that tram system in Kaohsiung is adopting the latest design withut cable wires to spoil people's eyesight.
There are many famous tourist spots in this area,and they are must-seen.Thus,it is inevitable to have many restaurants,cafe shops,department stores,shopping malls,cake stores,cash exchangers,street vendors,and so on,along the streets nearby.It is also common thing to just take a walk in this area.Very soon,you'd find yourself reaching to the next top of T1 in minutes,for it was not a long distance between stops.So,if you were in a fast-paced lifestyle,then it would just take you few days to finish the tour in Istanbul.But,I couldn't do this.I'd flied a long way to be here,and the flight was hard to me more or less.I couldn't accept to visit a place like having a stamp on my passport and then call it "I have been here or there".No,No,No,it was never my lifestyle.I wanted to live a place like domestic people did.for a time being at least.I wanted traveling not beautified but real and without delusion.I wanted my soul to interact with a place properly,so that I could enjoy my time there,as in a real world.
On this early morning,it just passed 4:00 am,I had already reached my hotel due to my smooth transportation.I couldn't check in yet until 12:00 around.Anyway, I left my luggages at my hotel and headed to the park directly.It was windy and chill.There were no others in the park,but a few dogs.They seemed to approach to welcome me.At first,I thought they were stray dogs.I was then kind of being alert.Thereafter I found that there was a small and round chip attached on each dog's left ear,to realize that they were adopted by people.They seemed to show friendly and I followed their lead to the park.It was beautiful,so I kept taking pictures with my mobile.It was even more beautiful especially there were no other tourists around.I had a light mood,I felt happy.There was no noise,no others,just me alone.I seemed to be in another world,and I'd totally forgotten there were a group of Germany tourists who got killed by a suicidal terrorist attack,right beside a column monument ,just a couple of weeks ago.In 2 hours or so,I went back to my hotel to see if they could allow me to check in early,I got a no,but they gave me a breakfast at the rooftop restaurant for free.I was appreciated very much for this is a good start,a sign of good luck.



要將廣場當作是長條型的面積範圍，以蘇丹艾哈邁德清真寺(藍色清真寺)為起點，一直散步到另一頭聖蘇菲亞教堂(AYASOPHY 博物館)為另一點，兩旁咖啡館、博物館、2列樹木、1個重點涼亭(德皇威廉噴泉)、3個柱狀紀念碑(牆柱、蛇柱、圖特摩斯三世方尖碑)、還有一個改建成外頭粉紅色Hamma的土耳其浴館的“Haseki Hurrem蘇丹哈馬姆”（1556年，在藍色清真寺和聖索菲亞之間，它位於西牆上)。這個蘇丹哈馬姆我就沒花錢去了，因為當地人說很貴，主要客人都是觀光客，土耳其浴館當地很多家，想體驗不要花太多錢，我反而是行程自己安排得太緊，結果一直到番紅花城才洗到。

To tour the square,you need to see it as an area of rectangular shape,starting from Sultanahmet Mosque,take a walk to the other end of Ayaosofy Museum.There were cafe shops, museums,2 parallelled trees,one German Fountain,3 column monuments(Walled Column,Serpent Column,and Theodosius Obelisk)，and a pink Turkish Hamma,which was reconstrcted from "Haseki Hurrem"(built in 1556-1557,on western wall,between Sultanahmet mosque and Ayaosofy Church).Domestic people told me it was expensive and mainly for tourists,so I skipped it.I don't think you need to spend a fortune to experience traditional Turkish Hamma.However,due to my tight schedule,I had my first Hamma experience after I reached Safranbolu.



廣場有餐車賣常見的麻花芝麻麵包，很便宜，沒吃早餐可以買來吃，但我沒有吃，一直到有次到警局去，該分局警察請我吃才算吃到，說來真是話長。不過附近餐館和糕餅店很多可是百年老店呀，身材已經放棄的，就撩下去吧。
There are dining carts selling sesame bread with pretzel shape with very cheap price.You can buy for a quick breakfast,but I didn't have chance to eat them,until I went to a police station in Istanbul,the police officers there treated me with them.Anyway,it's a long story.There are many hundred-yeared old cake store in this area too.For those who give up slim-shapped body,eat,eat,don't hold back,lol.

Marmara 大學就在方尖碑後方，有天看到許多人進進出出，我也跟著進去，裡面在辦某位藝術家的展覽，現場有提供小點心和飲料，剛進去有人來關切，但是他不會英文，我也不會土耳其語，就讓我進去參觀了，看一圈就趕快走了，哈哈，因為我沒有邀請卡，人家也不好意思趕我的樣子，我自由行就是來亂的。
Marmara University is right behind obelisk.One day,I saw many people going in and out.I followed in also.There was an artist holding an exhibition inside.They even hired waitters to serve guests snacks and beverage.Someone came to say something to me,but he didn't speak English and I didn't know Turkish.So,I guessed in the end I was permitted to tour freely without invitation card.hahaha,I felt embarrassed.So after touring a round,Ileft quickly.Well,I was truely a free tourist or an unexpected guest.


另外，廣場中的兩顆明珠，蘇丹艾哈邁德清真寺和聖蘇菲亞博物館，經年累月都有部分在整修，沒有完整全貌可看，感覺有些些遺憾。還有伊斯坦堡是個大都會，常住人口數超過一千七百萬人，比高雄還是台北都還多，人們來自土耳其各地，所以如果路上有人搭訕(我常常被搭訕，不知道為什麼?拉鍊沒拉嗎?)，說他(她)來自其他城鎮，不要驚訝，要不要一起去喝一杯，聊一聊天，我說啊，各位小朋友，叔叔是練過的，這種不管怎樣，請都不要答應去，因為有些人跟某些酒吧還是餐廳有合作，帶去消費會被騙錢，更糟會被搶，一般來說，土耳其人很熱情和親切，性格也較"土性"一些，我個人很喜歡，但是世上壞人本來就很多，桃花不要亂剪，另外消費的時候，土耳其人都會報貴一些，無非不是想多賺一點，對我而言，還好，服務若好，我也都會多給小費，原則上如果不是太離譜，小錢不用計較，但如果你個性是很實際的人，那你就要記好，當初你同意的價格，不要到付錢時被呼嚨了。餐廳一般會在吃完後奉上一杯土耳其茶，其實就是紅茶，用土耳其鬱金香玻璃杯裝，旁邊方糖有包起來，有的比較講究會用巧克力糖，這一陣子比較流行花茶系，我個人很喜歡蘋果茶，重點是，這不應該收錢的，記住了。

There are two most shinning pearls in park,Sultanahmet Mosque and St.Ayaosofy Museum.Both buildings are under maintainence all year round.I felt bad slightly for not having a whole view for both buildings.
Istanbul is a metropolitan city,with constant population of 17 millions,which is larger than Kaohsiung or Taipei.Even the diversity of people is complex.They come from different towns or villages in other Turkish areas.Thus,I have more chance to meet people from all over Turkey,but ,as you know,people are complex animals.If someone is trying to lure you to nearby bars or restaurants for a closer chitchat or something,please reject this offer.Because you might be scammed to an expensive bar or restaurant,which those people work for commission from.Even worse scenario is you might get robbed off.
Usually,when I make purchases,Turkish people might quote me with price a bit high,which I can tolerate.I think it is normal for people wantting to earn more money a bit more.Especially if their service is really good,I might tip them off without complaint.
To me,Turkish people are passionate and kind,their personality is a bit "down-to-earth".I like them a lot.But bad guys are everywhere in this world.Basically,if the price is not too gone far,I usually wouldn't care that much.However,if you are a practical person,hahahaha,then you must remember the price you agreed before your payment made.Don't forget this...lol.
There is one thing I should mention here.Usually,when you are done the dinning at restaurant,waitters would bring you a cup of tea to end your meal.The tea should be free of charge.Don't forget this,either. Turkish tea,black tea,is served with sugar cubes wrapped in paper(some even use chocolate instead),in a tulip shape of glass cup.Now in Turkey,it is also popular to serve flower tea.I personally prefer apple tea.




本來要注重景點的，但說起土耳其人就一時思緒泉湧，因為人的因素是形塑當地文化的靈魂，土耳其人很常抽菸，也大多用香水、古龍水、醒膚水(啊，這種很便宜，一瓶可用2、3個月，可是我已經快爆箱了，旅途還有好幾個月啊)、化妝水,然後再抽菸，男女老少常常抽菸，路上香水味加煙味，美食味再加煙味，海風緩緩也加一點煙味，土耳其人講話也呼煙味，路上走路、聊天、路邊戶外雅座都抽菸，我覺得台灣人若抽菸還會稍微遮一下，他們沒有，都大辣辣的，還擺POSE。

I should have focused on touring spots.However,once it comes up with the ideas about Turkish people,I couldn't help but put aside the description of tourist location for a while.People are always the soul of cultures.Turkishes smoke a lot,they also use a lot of perfume,colon,skin lotion(you can get bottles of that kind with very cheap price,but my luggages were going to explode for having too many things already.And yet I have months' itinerary to go.)They use perfume and smoke cigerates.Men,women,the old and the young,who all smoke.Thus,when you walk on streets ,you'd smell someone is smoking.You also smell cigerates from restaurants,from seaside when wind blows.You even smell cigerates when Turkishes taling to you.You smell cigerates everywhere.I think if Taiwanese smoke,people would act to cover,sort of, but here,no,people smoke like hell,and they even make gestures and poses when smoking.lol.

***
相關照片 Relevant Photos,
Around Square Part 1/2
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1571808869780754
Around Square Part 2/2.
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1571810229780618

SS01-21, Around Square.
SS22-27, German Fountain.德皇威廉噴泉
SS28-33, Haseki Hurrem蘇丹哈馬姆
SS34-40, Thutmose III Obelisk圖特摩斯三世方尖碑
SS41-53, Marmara University,Walled Column,Serpent Column 馬爾瑪拉大學、牆柱、蛇柱。
SS54-60, Other views in Square.

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continuing....未完....

2.Sultanahmet Mosque 蘇丹艾哈邁德清真寺

我說人家明明是寺廟，是莊嚴的地方，我就不懂，為什麼一堆眉眉，還是肖年人喜歡穿短褲或熱褲去參觀這種，世上很多宗教都會要求服裝，這裡當然也是，要露也要看場所啊，這不是一般常識嗎?所以女性就包一包吧，實在受不了的話，晚上再去夜店，看是要裸哪裡，只怕沒人會管你，這邊特別提醒一點，現在很多人喜歡穿像海灘褲的半長褲，注意了，只要褲長超過膝蓋就可以，所以很多人不注意，穿的都是"短褲"，但女性不可以穿短褲進去。真不清楚，哈，門口有很大看板，慢慢看吧。

I don't quite understand why some people would like to visit temples without a sense at all.There are many temples(or churches) in the world(no matter what religions they are) having dress code.Here is the same to sultanahmet Mosque,females need to wrap themselves tight.Otherwise,you should choose to expose at the right ocassion,like nightclubs if you really couldn't stand the religious restraints,lol.
There is one thing needed to be aware of,which is the beach shorts(pants) that many men love to wear nowadays.Beach pants are cozy ,but for temples or churches,the wearers must make sure its length can cover their knees.As for women or females,forget the beach pants or shorts,for they are not accepted by temples at all.If you still have question about this,there is a big,big sign stating the regulations in front of temple's gate.

外表部分又是在整修，還好可以進去參觀，庭院覺得還好，因為寺廟看太多都已經麻痺了，何況對面還有一家更富麗堂皇的蘇菲亞博物館，藍色清真寺是有提供正常宗教活動的場所，其歷史背景就不用多說了，網路一堆，請自行方便了，站在中庭的廣場上，正中是洗手腳的亭子，周遭靠牆也有，周圍騎樓下有放置看板，正展出相關出版品，由中庭往上看，清真寺的宏偉不用再多說，不過古蹟總是讓我感覺舊舊的，還有一點點髒髒的，進去前有現場要求雇用的私人導遊在拉客，許多景區都這樣，我只是設法甩開，自行參觀。他說為什麼跟你說話不看著我?]，我心想就不要買，幹嘛抬頭看你說話，惹一些有的沒的幹嘛?]，若不是現場人多，裡面充滿的波斯圖案配上吊燈和寬廣場所，還真有些迷幻效果。

Parts of the appearances of Mosque were under maintainence,but it still allowed visiters to get into.The first court or garden I thought it was o.k.after seeing too many temples,I was sort of being numb.Besides,there was another one, Ayaosofy Museum,which was more magnificent and just located in opposite to it.
Sultanahmet Mosque(Blue Mosque) is a temple offering regular religious activities still.To its historial background,find or google it yourself to save my nagging.I stepped into its middle courtyard,it was spacious like a square,with a pavillion that offered people to wash their hands and feet on all its four sides,before getting into mosque.there were other facets along the walls.It was displaying publication when I visited it.A lot of broads with information laid out in the corridors.It needs no words to describe,of course,when I was looking up the mosque from its middle courtyard,its magnificence,and imposing beauty.Looking around,I felt the building was kind of old and a bit of dirty though.
At the gate,I saw private touring guides were solicitating their potential clients.It was a common thing in famous tourist sites.One talked to me ,said,"Why don't you look at me while I am talking to you? It's rude,bro...", I was thinking,"I don't want to buy your service,then why do I need to bother myself to get into the trouble? bro, leave me along". Inside,it's full of tourists.However,the spacious ground,wide and large chandeliers,Persian patterns that created a mirage so illusional.

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相關照片 Relevant Photos,
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1572248889736752

BM01-27, outlooks and courtyard.外觀和中庭.

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3.聖蘇菲亞博物館 AYASOPHY Museum

http://ayasofyamuzesi.gov.tr/
聖索菲亞博物館星期一不開，托比卡皇宮星期二不開，若要一天玩完，要避開這兩天，或分別日前往。
Ayaosofy Museum closes on Monday,and Tokapi Palace Museum closes on Tuesday.Thus,you need to choose other weekday to tour both sites at one time,or you can just visit them separatly.

第一眼有點吃驚，因為外牆是粉紅色的，紅磚砌的，但看起來粉粉的紅，入口附近有賣博物館卡的販賣機，穿過旋轉柵欄順著路走，路旁還有咖啡廳，我常問當地人，你們的餐廳、咖啡廳這麼多，這麼競爭，會賺錢嗎?是沒有人要在家煮飯嗎?
旁邊入口下面和附近亂堆一些古希臘還是羅馬時代的石頭（其實是Theodosian的遺跡），不過對老石頭和老頭沒興趣，進去後，直接就看到大廳的門，但會先踏上的是長廊，果然是東正教的格局，大理石地板，牆板，拜占庭風格的天花板和雕飾，半空懸掛的吊燈放出金黃的柔光，挑高的天花板連光線也難以充溢，形成高聳令人精神為之一凜的氣勢，走廊兩端是叫拜塔的底層。進入大廳後，整個空間被切成一半，一半在施工，一半開放參觀，看得出很宏偉，但還是覺得很遺憾，沒有在這一次觀賞到全貌，難不成，土耳其人一物兩賣？要我下次再花錢來看？鷹架倒形成另類視覺感受，但是鷹架不是重點吧，然而，我還是覺得很美，太厲害了（不是指土耳其賣一半場景，但收全票，哈哈），給我的感覺是整個以金色和黑色為基底色調，若不是在施工，看得出帝國的威勢顯赫，蘇丹Mahmud一世的圖書館室用金色的圍牆隔開，不會是真的金子吧？？？也看到了大理石大水罐（１隻，另一隻在施工那邊），哭柱也在施工那一邊也沒看到，但是各吊燈和主吊燈還是超美，頂頭聖母聖子壁畫氣勢磅薄，待了一會，就去蘇丹石墓或稱前洗禮室，我覺得像大樓的中庭，放了相關石頭做的器具，和一個石頭大浴缸，由下往上看，忽然覺得建築物滿現代的，出來的出口，頂頭放了一面鏡子，鏡中反映對面聖母聖子和國王教徒在兩側的壁畫，超有心機的，出口還有另一個洗禮池，做成用涼亭蓋住。希望下次施工的部分可以開放。

I was kind of suprised to see its pink walls when approaching,which used red bricks as materials,but it looked pink in color.
There was a vendor machine selling Museum cards by the entrance.There was even a cafe shop after you went through the turnstile and walked up the road.I asked locals a lot about the restaurants and cafe shops in city.With so many restaurants and cafe shops,I wondered if no one cooked at home? and could them earn enough money with competition so fierce?

There were scattered stones you could see before the gate(the stones were actually the ruins since Theodosian times.),but I was not interested in those stones ,nor old men or anyting too old,lol.So I went straight to enter and then I saw the hall through high doors.I went into the long corridor before I could step into the main Hall.You could tell its orthodox architectural style from the marble walls,and floors,and the carvings on them.The chandeliers in corridor hanging low and emitting soft golden light.The ceiling was so high that even natural light couldn't fill the space.I felt it so imposing that made me compose myself a little.The ground floor on each end of corridor were the base floor of two minarets.
I went into the Hall,that half of the hall was under maintenance with scalffolds that overlaped one another to the ceiling.So the hall was separated in halves.At least, people could appreciate half of it,but still I felt a little sorry for not being able to see the whole(I wondered,could it be a conspiracy that Turkishes like to sell you ticket twice for the same site? lol.). Even though the scalffolds looked interesting,but they were not the point here.The church was still magnificent even you only got to see half of it.I still felt its greatness with golden and black colors as the base motiff to understand that the empires were so ambitious and grand.
The Library of Sultan Mahmud I was separated to visitors by golden railings that intertwined as a wall.Could it be real gold?(I thought it was,yes,it is made of gold.)
I also saw the giant marble water jar(the other one was in maintenance side,so was the weeping column.).
However, I still felt the main chandelier and others were beautiful,and the fresco on the ceiling about St.Maria and the Holy Baby was so imposing in momentum.I was there loitering for a while ,then I went to Baptistery(older one) room.That place had some facilities or equipments made of stones,including a big bathtub.When I looked up and suddenly I felt this part of the building was quite modern.
When walking out to the last part to the exit,I saw a mirror that reflected the image of St.Maria and Baby from the mural above the door in the opposite way.It was a tricky fun,wasn't it?
After going out,there was another baptistery pool covered by a pavillion.
Anyway,I hope I could see the whole view in my next time's visit.


***
相關照片 Relevant Photos,
Part 1,
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1572396376388670
Part 2,
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1572398936388414

AM01-13,outlooks.
AM14-21,corridor
AM22-54,The Hall,water jar,main praying altar,and The Library of Sultan Mahmud I.
AM55-60,The Baptistery.
AM61-66,The exit with mirror,and the latest Baptistery pool.

***




4.地下宮殿 Basilica Cistern

　　　　走出廣場，沿著馬路往Tokapi皇宮博物館方向走下去（其實很近），不久有一小圓環，一眼就看到地下宮殿的入口建築物，說是地下宮殿，只不過是古代的儲水池。
結果博物館卡不能用，要另掏腰包買門票，下去後，有放置一些全圖模型，有設咖啡店，還有設給觀光客穿古時奧圖曼時期的服裝，然後拍照，這當然是要付費的，這個地下規模宏偉的儲水池的最高潮展示物品，就是沿著標誌走到最後，兩根有刻梅杜莎蛇髮女妖的柱子，不過因為整個地下儲水功能在現代都已經喪失，為了展示和觀光用途，各柱下方也設有燈光來照明和營造氣氛，低水位的水池有放養一些鯉魚，漫步其中很有趣，小心腳滑，在土耳其或東歐旅遊時，只要有水的景點，幾乎都有人投擲錢幣許願，真是的，人啊!有那麼多願要許?
Walked out the Square,went along the road to Tokapi Palace Museum(the distance was quite short though),before long,I reached a small road circle.There it was the entrance of Basilica Cistern on the opposite of the road.Though its was "palace",but it was just an ancient reservoir.
I needed to pay the ticket for Museum Card was invalid here.There they were displaying a model of buildings in this area,a cafe shop,and a shop for tourists to wear royal clothes from Ottoman times and then take photos.Of course,you needed to pay for the fun.
The scale of this cistern was great and it was to the climax by showing us two columns of Medusa's head in the end along the road.Just follow the signs and you'll get there.The Museum also equipped with lights on the bottom of each column to illuminate and create an atmosphere of mystery.The level of water was low,but they raised some carps in the water.I felt it's fun by just taking a walk around.Beware the slippery paths,please.
I've also noticed ,during my travel in Turkey and Eastern Europe,that people loved to toss coins into water ,as long as there is a pool or fountain,to make wishes.Goodness,I said,people always have countless wishes to make.I feel three black lines across my forehead,lol.


***
相關照片 Relevant Photos,
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1572409783053996

BC01-07,Entrance,ticket,and shops.
BC08-16,Columns.
BC17-29,Medusa.r
BC30-32,More columns.

***

5.博斯普魯斯觀光渡輪(Bosphorus Tour ferry)、艾米諾努港區 Eminonu、and 阿納多盧要塞 Anadolu Kavagi

五月天的土耳其天氣好的不得了，氣溫又在攝氏20度上下，在廣場混了許多天覺得無聊了，今天決定去坐船晃晃博斯普魯斯海峽，坐船就要到位於金角灣的Eminonu港口去坐，Eminonu港區大致從Galata 橋到捷運M2(綠)線的Halic站之間(此站是在橫跨金角灣在海中間的橋站，在Ataturk阿塔圖克橋和 Galata 橋之間，所以下站環顧四周海景，別有一番風味。)
一般遊客會在Galata橋散步遊玩跨海灣的景色，橋上兩旁都有人在釣魚，海風吹來有魚腥味，當然還有煙味，我的媽，陽光照來很容易現出原形，所以防曬和太陽眼鏡必備，我是三天後就已經放棄了，因為已經來不及，有黑到別人很羨慕那種膚色(哈)，這時你可以往橋那頭的Galata 塔或Taksim商業區去玩，我要坐船，所以就散步往艾米諾努Eminonu港區去。

The weather in May was terrifically excellent,the temperature was about 20 degrees Celsius.I had been hanging around many days at the Square and I'd gotten bored.Thus,I had decided to take a cruise today along Bosphorus Strait.I needed to take a ship there in Eminonu district,Golden Halic.Eminonu was bwtween Galata Bridge and M2's Halic stop(,which was built in the middle of bridge that crosses the sea.Halic stop is between Ataturk and Galata bridge.It'd give you a different kind of wonderful views after getting off the metro stop to just take around you.)

General tourists might love to take a walk across Galata bridge and get seaview.There were many locals fishing from bridge.When the sea wind blew over,I could taste the fish smell,and of course,the cigerates.My Goodness,the sun was so big,I might get sunburned if I didn't wear sunglasses and use sunproof lotion.Truth is I had already given up the struggle to prevent from sunburn in 3 days after my arrival in Istanbul.Ha,I'd gotten the complexion that might envy everybody though.

You could go to bridge's one end that leads you to the Galata Tower or Taksim business District,But I went the other end to Eminonu port,for I wanted to take a cruise.


T1 站有Eminonu站，直接到站下車就馬上看到很多觀光照片上的景色，手機拿起來就要猛拍，身為觀光客一點都不要客氣，由Galata橋往港口方向拍，可以得到藍色清真寺為背景，由港口往另一頭拍，可以得到Galata 塔為背景，港口很熱鬧，小吃攤很多，停泊在靠岸的海上船餐廳也可以點來吃，土耳其餐食是世界三大菜系之一，伊斯坦堡可也是以海鮮出名，大家有興趣就試試吧，我個人覺得衛生應該還好，我沒有在土耳其澇塞過，但如果你一定要吃餐廳，在港區往Galata橋橋下去，整排都是餐廳，不過慎選日曬方向，不要吃完人也變黑了，死阿逗啊都不怕曬，他們可以坐外面，我可要坐裡面，餐廳價位有比在其他市區貴許多，但我不是天天可以來，所以好歹也消費個經驗，結論是，也還好，就景色取勝啦(來呦，來呦，人客來坐呦)。

You could take directly T1 to Eminonu for there was a stop in front of port.As I arrived,I did what a standard tourist would do by holding my mobile phone and starting to take pictures.Don't be shy,I was a tourist, whatelse could I act to the beautiful sight?You can have Blue Mosque as your photos' background if you took pictures from Galata bridge to Eminonu. If you took pictures from Eminonu to the other side,you'd get Galata Tower as your photos' background.There were many street food carts in port and you also could order your meal from boat restaurants.The port was a hustle and bustle spot.
Turkish cuisine is one of the top 3 gourmandise in the world.Istanbul is also famous for seafood.You should give it a try if interested.I thought the food hygiene was all right,for my stomach had never had problem with it.If you preferred to dine at a restaurant,a fancy place,you could go under the Galata bridge.There,you'd see a row of restaurants which you could choose from.However,you might need to pick a good spot away from sunshine to prevent from getting too much suntanned.Those caucasians who were not afraid of being suntanned ,loving to sit outside near sea,but not me please,lol.I sat indoors.The pricing of those restaurants was higher than other areas' though.But I couldn't be here often,at least I should have dined here for a experience.My conclusion of consumption was that they're all right,basically those restaurants were taken advantages of the good location to raise their pricing.

港口有很多販賣船票的公司，因為在伊斯坦堡坐船往亞洲區或其他海峽沿岸的城鎮都很方便，也是日常交通選項之一，我要坐渡輪玩海峽，所以走一下下就到了賣票的地方(往港口小吃攤的另一頭再下去)，http://en.sehirhatlari.istanbul/en (可以查各船班表，很實用)，這時用博物館卡可以打75折，航線可以自選要近的還是遠的，我是選直接到黑海交接處的A.Kavagi漁村，也是最後一站，航程約1.5小時，來回就3小時了，這時旁邊有台灣小朋友跟男友正在考慮要不要坐，聽到來回要6小時，就"蛤~"，哈哈哈，真是，應該是臨時起意想玩的吧
? 其實遊客如果只想沾一下下遊覽海峽的風光，又不想花時間，可以選半小時航程的，或一小時航程的，都有，因為渡輪是日常交通工具之一，沿岸停泊很多地點，只是要選下船的地方附近有景點可以順便玩的比較好。為什麼要約6小時呢?我沒有打錯，因為船送你到地點後，會停一些時候，這時是讓遊客趕快利用時間往山上去玩古蹟阿納多盧要塞，當然你可以搭計程車上去，比較多人都是步行上山，我要用走的，玩好再回來，記得接下午3:00那一班船回去，時間上用走的來回加上停留在山上遊逛的時間都夠，回到山下渡口，還有時間在旁邊餐廳吃一頓等船，因此這條旅遊線是一日遊(早上10:00左右出發的船，下午3:00回來的船)。


There are couples of shipping companies that sell cruise and boat tickets.In Istanbul it is convenient to take a ship as a way for your daily transportation.I wanted to take a cruise,so I headed to further from the port(where food carts were).Soon,I saw the ticket booth.You can check the shipping tablet for time and ferry stops by this website (http://en.sehirhatlari.istanbul/en).It is very useful.Now,finally,my Museum card got me 25% discount off my cruise fee.

You can choose short cruising or long cruising line.I chose the long cruising line with the final destination in Anadolu Kavagi,a small fish village.It'd take me 1.5 hour to get there,and another 1.5 hour to get back.So,there were 3 hours in transportation along.It happened to have a Taiwanese couple inquiring for curising time at the booth.When they heard it would take them 6 hours to finish the whole tour,they showed a hesitation instantl.It might be in a whim for them to take a cruise before they knew all the information.

Actually,if tourists wanted to taste the Bosphorus Strait and didn't want to spend much time on it,they could choose short cruising line instead.Boats and cruise ships are the regular public transporting vehicles,they have many ferry stops along the Strait.You could always get off the ship at any ferry stop,but it would be better if there was a tourist site to see nearby the ferry.

Why 6 hours? I didn't make a typo here.I was talking about the longest cruising line.It will take 3 hours in a round trip,and then the ship would stay another 3 hours for passengers to use time to tour the Anadolu Kavagi Fortress uphill.So it's total 6 hours.Of course,if you wanted to leave earlier,you could take a taxi up to Fortress.Nonetheless,I went up hill by foot.The time was enough for a leisure walking to and fro,and I still had enough time to eat at a restaurant downhill while I was waitting for the ship to start off.Thus,it was one day tour.


跟著其他遊客上山，路途要20多分鐘，沿途有標誌，山下入口處也有看板，再來就是要爬階梯了，要到山頂是那種可以讓人流汗的長度，高度其實不高，但還是汗流浹背，中間有點昏頭迷路，但是又有狗狗帶路(這趟旅途狗狗一直是我的守護神)，我並沒有在爬山路途中的餐廳停留吃喝一下，非常順利一口氣就到達目的地，炎熱的日照和滿身汗水，一下子就被山頂涼風吹得不知去向，古時山寨已經荒廢，也沒有整理價值，只留斷垣殘壁和石磚堆積成的大門成觀光景物，通往裡面的入口有用鐵門和雜物隔起來，裡面都已經雜草叢生，但是地理上是監看海峽和黑海交接處的理想地點，因此附近仍有軍事基地，登高望遠，遠方博斯普魯斯橋橫跨海峽，再過去就是黑海了。

I followed other tourists going up hill.It took about 20 minutes more.There were road signs and a big board stating the location of stair entrance.Then it's time to climb the stairs.The climbing would make you perspire a lot.It was not that high.I thought I was the sun that made me kinda lost.And then my tour gardian ,a black dog,showed up once more to lead me to the hill.Thus,I went straight to the Fortress without resting at the cafe shop on the way.

It was windy and a little chill.My perspiration was blew off right away as I reached the Fortress.The Fortress was dilapidated and discarded for not having any serious value left.The tourism is the only residual remanents.The entrance to the Fortess had been blocked with steel rails and various stuffs.I took a peek at inside,it was all weeds.However,the location is ideal still to surveillance the intersection of Black Sea and Bosphorus Strait.Thus,there was a millitary base nearby to serve this purpose. Seeing the view from above,I could see the Bosphorus Bridge across the gate of the Strait.A little further beyong the bridge it was Black Sea.

回程走到附近禮品店逛了一下，這地方我是建議不要花錢買東西，因為價格比市區貴許多，這個漁村不賺觀光客的錢，不然要賺什麼?

Going back to the ferry,I had spent some time in souvenir shops.I suggest that not to spend your money here,for they had higher price.This was a remote fish village,if they wanted to slash some money,tourists were their targets.

海峽兩岸景色優美，看玩不盡，沿岸有許多美麗的建築物，大的可以看到Dolma Bahce 多瑪巴哈切皇宮博物館，小的有Ottomman帝國時期樣式的民間富人房舍，我特別喜歡在岸邊有配備遊艇的高級住宅，伊斯坦堡是全土耳其最富有的地方，有錢人也是很多，海鳥鳴叫，波光粼粼，一會兒看到不遠處的少女島，再一會兒又回到艾米諾努了，結束了悠閒、美美的一天，心中也印下了博斯普魯斯海峽藍藍的海水，洗盡了心中紛亂的雜絮。

The scenery views on both banks of the Strait made me feel happy and have some fun.There were many beautiful houses and mensions along the Strait,like a bigger one,Dolma Bahce, or smaller ones with Ottoman style.The houses looked expensive.I personally loved the ones with a yacht berthed in the backyard.Istanbul is the richest city in whole Turkey.
I fell into a trance with seabirds sound and glittering sea waves.Before long,I saw Kiz Kulesi not far away,and a while later,my ship was approaching Eminonu very soon.This was then the time to end my one day tour in Bosphorus Strait,with crystally blue sea waves printed on my mind,which seemed to wash away my chaotic thoughts.


補充:遊客喜歡搶坐船隻的外圍，船裏頭反而沒甚麼人要坐，五月天，有日照的一邊溫暖，但漸漸會炎熱，陰涼的一邊，涼風徐徐，但漸漸會風大和寒冷，所以可以走動的位置比較好，如果坐中間進出會不便。船上有賣餐點，很便宜(台幣約10-20元)，我喜歡喝土耳其紅茶，再稍微涼冷的天氣，喝一口溫熱紅茶，人很舒服。

Others:

Most tourists loved to sit ourskirt of the ship.Seldom people would choose to sit in the ship cabin.In May,if you chose seats with sunshine,it would be getting hotter.On the other hand,if you chose seats in the shade,it'd be getting cold.So,choose seats that can make you move around without trouble others.There is a restaurant section on ship,the price was cheap.You could buy a cup of hot Turkish tea in chilling days(NT$10-20 around),that would make you feel very comfortable.



***
相關照片 Relevant Photos,
Eminonu
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1573918052903169

Em01-24, Views while I was walking towards Eminonu ferry.
Em25,exhausted after bathed,and noticed I was starting to lose weight bit by bit.

Bosphorus Cruising
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1573921379569503
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1573925756235732

BrsCrg01-02 ,The boat ticket.
BrsCrg03-09 ,Views from ferry boat.
BrsCrg10-38 ,Views of the Bosphrus Strait.
BrsCrg39-53 ,Views of Anadolu Kavagi.
BrsCrg54-76 ,Views of the Fortress of A.Kavagi.
BrsCrg77-80 ,Views of Kiz Kulesi from afar.

***

6.Dolma Bahce 多瑪巴哈切皇宮博物館

http://www.millisaraylar.gov.tr/portalmain-en/VisitingInfo.aspx

本來要求飯店幫我預約參訪時間，結果飯店人員說這陣子有恐怖攻擊，人沒有以前多，我隨時去隨時可以進去，真的嗎？街頭感覺不出來呀，遊客還是很多啊，其實土耳其當地人出外旅遊的人也很多，所以如果台灣擔心陸客會少很多，國人要多多學習別的國家的人，自己人要多支持國內旅遊，如果擔心國旗能見度在國際不高，那可以學習土耳其，隨處都看到星月旗，當然國人對青天白日滿地紅旗有不同意見就是了（那就公投選新樣式呀，這樣國人對國旗就會意見一致，不用再吵了，搞不好吵得更兇也說不定）。

I'd asked my hotel to book a reservation of visiting the palace for me.Nonetheless,my hotel's staff at counter advised me that I should just go for not having many people recently,ever since the terrorist attack that happened weeks ago.However,I didn't feel any atmospheric change in the streets due to the horrible incident.Still,there were many domestic people and tourists on the streets.I was thinking,if Taiwan worried about tourists from China would decrease drastically due to political disputes,then we might learn from other countries to support our own domestic tourism.And if we thought our national flags were seldom seen,we might learn from Turkey.Turkishes hang their national flags(the flag of a moon and a star) everywhere as whatever they like.But we have different argument about our national flag(the flag of Blue sky with white sun and red ground) so far in Taiwan Island( Perhaps we could end the argument by holding a referendum.Or we might get into a more fierce quarrel.)


　　　　皇宮裡面不可以照相，知道後真是無言，電影看過會忘，我不知道可以記多久，現在很多博物館只要不使用閃光燈都可以讓你照，Dolma Bahce很小氣說(可以查看官網有釋出的宣傳照，或Google上也有內部照片，雖然跟自己的會不同)，坐了電車到T1的Kabatas站出來，沿著靠海灣的馬路走一小段，一會兒會經過有賣船票去"王子島"的地方，照著指示標誌走，馬上到皇宮外圍的清真寺，旁邊有設現代化的公廁，因為有點不搭所以記憶滿深的，再過去一點點就看到花園入口售票的地方了，靠近售票處前的大道上還有外圍建物，鐘樓，到之前看到房屋都往鄰近山坡上層層建立，感覺景觀很奇妙。

It's camera prohibited that I felt so unhappy.Who knows how long I would memorize the things I'd seen inside,I couldn't even sure I'd remember the movies I had watched weeks ago.Nowadays museums tend to allow visitors to take photos as long as they don't use flash light,but Dolma Bahce doesn't(you still can see relevant photos by browsing internet or googling interior pictures,though I prefer to have photos of my own views.)

Take the T1 and get off the tram at Kabatas station,walk a short distance along seaside of the Halic,then you will pass by the boat ticket booth to "Prince Isle".Just follow the direction signs,you will go by the outskirt buildings like Royal Palace Mosque(there is a public toilet beside it.The public toilet is new and modern that makes it incoherent with the mosque's style,and I remember quite clear because of this reason.),and you go a little bit further more,you'll see another outskirt building,the Clock Tower.

Before I reached the ticket booth beside the gate of Palace,I had appreciated the scene that, across the road,layer and layer of houses built gradually up the hill.I felt the scene was wonderful though for I didn't see this in my hometown.


古蹟當然又是部分在維修中啦，可是皇宮的歷史並不久遠，19世紀中建的，算滿新的，屬巴洛克風格，當然，我的博物館卡又是不能用，要另行買票，心中又罵了一遍，進入大門後就是漂亮的花園，心情馬上又好起來，前園很廣又靠著海灣邊，海邊的圍牆有著雕刻華麗的一排側門和路燈，真的很美麗，皇宮真的是不同凡響，慢慢晃啊晃的漸漸靠近皇宮主建物了，發現再10多分鐘就可以參加下一班的英文導覽了，我就在門內接待的地方邊穿塑膠鞋套邊坐下休息，人數真的還好，還真的不用預約，但是如果你與一群朋友一起來，而且又不要等(每小時一班，但不同語言班次不同)，你們可以在入園的售票地方買獨家導覽的參觀行程，這樣一到馬上就有人帶上去，沒辦法在現場買，現場也不接受私人參訪，只有參加導覽才可以，我的那一團有可愛的小朋友，隨時給你哭鬧一下，跟導覽員的土腔英文犯衝好不熱鬧，真是的，這些家長是在想什麼啊，一定要帶小孩子來看他們現在還不懂的事物嗎?需要在這裡把家庭不好的教育成果展現出來嗎?但是，請注意，即使你認為自己的參觀權益受損也不可以嘮叨或斥責他們的小孩子，這些人雖然是觀光客，然而土耳其當地人也是很寵小孩(又親又抱的)，我這陣子發現即使東歐或土耳其的民眾在巴士或其他公共場所帶著哭鬧的小孩，也沒人敢出聲斥責或抱怨，就當自己倒楣吧，忍一忍就過去了，記住不可以罵人ㄡ(該死的Daniel，剛才在哭，現在倒是在花園追母雞玩，我恨到他的名字都可以記到現在，就知道剛剛在裏面他有多煩了)。

Of course,parts of palace were under maintenance AGAIN.However,the history of Dolma Bahce is not old at all,it was built in mid of 19th century,with baroque style,Thus,it should be counted as new.Anyway,my museum card can't be valid here once more.I needed to buy ticket(quite upset for the function of the museum card).

My mood had changed to the bright side ever since I entered and saw the beautiful royal garden.The garden was wide and closed beside the seaside(the bank of Halic Bay).There were a row of side gates and street lamps with magnificently carvings.They were truly beautiful,really beautiful and uncommon compared to other public construction.I loitered in the garden and was slowly approaching the main building. Finally at the side door,I discovered I could attend next shift of English guiding in 10 minutes.I quickly enrolled and sat on chair inside the foyer to put on the plastic shoe bags and rest a while.
It was true then my hotel's information.I didn't need to book a reservation prior to my arrival.Today it was not crowded.However,if you came with a bunch of your friends and you didn't want to wait for your suitable guiding time with other visitors or the language you want,you could buy a group guiding just for yourselves at the entrance ticket booth.You couldn't buy it at the foyer,and the guards and receptionists wouldn't accept it at the right spot.Besides,it's mandatory to join the guiding tour,they don't accept tours for individuals.
Thus,if you don't want to wait the suitable guiding shift,you can buy this at the entrance,then you can start up the tour right away as you enter the foyer.

There were little kids in our group,and they didn't behaved right with their naive smile while touring around the palace.Their noises collided with our guide's English with heavy Turkish accent,making me have a headache.Well,I thought those parents were not responsible ones,why they had to bring their little children to see something they still couldn't understand.They just annoyed others and infringed others rights.Was it the right timing and occasion to show their failure of family education here?
However,please note ,even if you felt so upset about their impolite behavior,it was still not your duty to reprimand their kids.I've noticed that people in Turkey or Eastern Countries spoiled their youngsters very much.There were no one who would
scold them in buses or any public ocassions even they were behaving bad.It was the cultural thing.So just endure or see it as your bad luck.Remember it is not your business,do not scold them(the dame kid,Daniel,chasing hens merrily in garden now.He totally forgot how he disrupted our guiding with his horrible crying.You could imagine how annoying he was for I still could remember his name yelled by his parents all the way during our tour.)


我真的覺得值回票價，因為不可以照相錄影，但網路上都有，說什麼這裡是接待外賓的地方、客人等待的房室啦、皇太后接待外賓的大廳啦、龐然大物的吊燈等等等，我記憶中皇宮是說不盡的奢侈、華麗、金碧輝煌，土耳其的民族英雄凱末爾也臨終在這裡，看著一間又一間美輪美奐的房間，然而我內心逐漸漠然，不知怎地總覺得一切是過往雲煙，非常地不踏實起來，出來後因為出口處是有雕飾的高台(仍然在皇家花園裡)，一堆人馬上又恢復觀光客的本性，大家又照相起來了，到此參觀還未結束，因為皇宮在不同棟大樓還有劃分多處的展示廳，拿著票朝著指示走去了。

I really thought it was worthy to visit Dolma Bahce.Even though you couldn't take photos(but you still can see it from internet.)，guests' waitting rooms，the lavish Reception Hall of the Queen Mother，or huge and grand chandeliers and so on.In my memory,I only could remember its extravagant luxuriance,golden,magnificence,and imposing grand.Turkish hero Mustafa Kemal Ataturk who also died in here.I didn't know why my mind starting to feel empty gradually,while I was touring those beautiful rooms.I felt so unreal,and thought everything in the world ,no matter how grand things were,would pass away in time eventually.

When the guiding tour was over,my group stepped into the exit where was the stairs leading to the imperial garden.The stairs were built high with baroque carvings.So,every one soon restored our tourists' nature,starting to take photos.
Finishing to visit the main building of royal palace,but the touring didn't end here.There were other exhibition in other buildings,so I headed to them with the ticket held in my hand.


(國立皇宮繪畫博物館)正展示近代繪畫，大部分是人物油畫，如果剛才隨團參觀感覺束縛，那麼同樣在不同棟的皇宮看畫展，卻可以讓人有獨自漫步皇宮廳室的自在，圖畫分布在不同屋室，一間一間看過去，腳下的木質地板也跟著吱吱作響，超有趣的感覺，除了畫展，沿途過去還有皇家鐘錶展屋，皇家飼養的家禽，以及供皇家人私探皇宮外面的水晶亭，這間要走到上面的花園要先經過一長廊，剛好有個人展，是一位業餘的畫家，接待人員給我看了他的3D畫作，因為剛看過皇宮另一棟的畫展，看到這業餘的水準就還好，這個水晶亭我覺得是當時皇家人偷得半日閒的娛樂場所。

(National Palaces Painting Museum)They were displaying oil paintings.Most of them were the theme of figures.If you felt guiding tours in main building were constrained,then walking around in these displaying rooms alone giving you a specail funny feeling and loitering freedom among royal rooms,especially with the squeaking sound coming from the wooden floor.In addition to painting display,there were others,like house of clocks,royal birds garden,and the crystal pavilion,where was for the royal members to peek at outside world.In order to reach the crystal pavilion,I needed to walk through a long corridor,where happened was holding an exhibition of the works of an amateur painter.The receptionist there kindly showed me the painter's 3D paintings.But I felt the paintings were just fine ,because I just saw a seies of excellent oil paintings in other buildings.The crystal pavilion was to provide an entertaining ocassion for royal members.


到此才算結束，還以為只是1、2小時的行程，沒想到花了我大半天，不過我心滿意足的離開，走回頭碰到捷運站，附近有廁所才想起要尿一下，土耳其公廁里拉1元(台幣約10元)。

It took me more than half of a day to finish the tour.That's beyong my expectation.I went to a metro station with contented heart and I'd found a public toilet nearby.It took every user 1tr(NT$10) to release the natural call.


***
相關照片 Relevant Photos,
Dolma Bahce Palace

https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1574259339535707
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1574264596201848


DB01-02,Ticket and Brochure.
DB03-10,Pedestrian passage
DB11-17,Royal mosque.
DB18-20,Street view outside.
DB21-23,Clock Tower.
DB24-32,Front square and the main gate.
DB33-55,Imperial Garden.
DB56-59,The Clock Museum.
DB60-71.The Bird pen.
DB72-79,The Crystal Pavilion and more garden.
DB80-82,The Exit.

***

continuing......未完待續中

7.Otogar 巴士總站 the Bus Headquarter

坐上M1捷運線可以到達，這裡的M1線在Otogar站會分岔成往機場的M1A,和往Kirazli站(接M3)的M1B，列車進站的時候，你會看到車頭有顯示往機場或往另一Kirazli站的，如果在這站上車，想到機場又趕時間的話，就不要坐錯了。

Hop on M1,then you can reach the bus headquarter,Otogar station,where splits into two lines.One goes to the Ataturk airport is M1A,the other is M1B that goes to Kirazli station to link with M3.You can see the indication sign on the head of each incoming train.

　　　　我過幾天想去玩另一個世界遺產的村莊：番紅花城，就先過來買巴士票，搭捷運到站後，乘手扶電梯往上出站，出口有警衛，往旁走去就是市集，應該說是還是在商場裡面，有很多餐廳、雜貨店、理髮廳、很多服飾店和賣其他商品的店面，跟我讀到的以為是百貨公司差很多，就只是大商場這樣，不過價格很是實在，可以在這裡安心消費。

I wanted to visit an UNESCO village,Safranbolu,so I came over to buy my bus ticket few days earlier.As I got off the station,took the escalator going up to the exit upstair,then I saw the guards by the exit turnstiles.I turned to the side to enter the shopping mall,where had many restaurants,grocery stores,barber shops,fashion shops,and other stores that were selling other commodities.You could feel easy to consume here for the pricing here was for general public,though Otogar is a shopping mall not a department store.

　　　　走出商場就看見總站分A,B,C,D區，每一區有很多巴士公司的辦公室，即使是同一巴士公司，但有分跑不同的路線，辦公室也就在不同區，怎麼辦呢？就開口問人了，各個巴士公司的辦公室都有銷售人員，大家都在同一地方營業，非常競爭的樣子，銷售人員都跑到路邊拉人吆喝了，但是這裡的人英文不好，就耐心慢慢問到有銷售人員熱心地回答，可是他的英文我真的聽到霧煞煞，害我一直不敢下決定買，就推託說要到外面上個廁所再來，後來到土耳其最大巴士公司Metro櫃台問，而有銷售人員很順利找到會說英文的人幫我解決購票問題，由於這家每天每1、2小時都有班次，所以根本就不需要提前購票，反正我票買了，還讓我先選座位，土耳其的巴士是主要交通工具，水準和設備都很好，長程車上還提供飲料和小點心，
價格很便宜，又不太誤點，雖然說可以上網，但是我覺得對這點不用期待，內建的上網設備對外國人沒什麼方便的，好不容易有找到會說英文的，就趕快也順便買了到保加利亞首都蘇菲亞的巴士票，比其他交通工具還便宜說，不過這是因為我沒有時間上的急迫性，所以可以很彈性的選擇對我有利的交通工具的關係，每家辦公室都有編號，上車地點在辦公室後面，買票的辦公室不見得是上車的地點，要問清楚，要他們直接寫編號在票面上註明。http://www.metroturizm.com.tr/

Walk out the mall,then you could see the A,B,C,or D bus sections outside.There were many bus offices at each section.Same bus company might have different offices at different bus section running different routes.So,what was I going to do then? with so many offices here.Well,I needed to ask to find a way out.

Different bus salespersons were all working at the same location.The competition was so fierce that the salespersons even yelled outside by the curbs to solicite enough passengers for their sales.However,most people's English here was not good.I'd found a salesperson who was evry enthusiastic in promoting his bus company,but I couldn't decide for I really didn't understand him completely.I needed to found an excuse to go away in the end.like I needed to pee et cestera.

At last,I came to the office of Metro Tourism Company,that is the biggest bus company in Turkey.One of the salespersons could speak English and got me to buy the ticket to Sanfrabolu finally.He even let me choose my seat in the bus.Metro Toursim Bus company provided regular bus from Istanbul to Safranbolu at every 1 or 2 hours,thus I didn't need to buy ticket beforehead.However,I did it anyway.

Buses are the main public transportation in Turkey with good quality.The conductor on bus offers snacks and beverage on board during driving on roads.For buses running long distance,there are surely another driver standing by on the same bus,and Turkish buses are mostly on time in timetable.As to the internet service on buses,I think it is not working right for foreigners.So,forget this internet on bus.

Since I'd finally been offered with someone who could speak English and liked to help,I quickly bought another ticket to Sofia,Bulgaria.Comparing the fees with other vehicles,I used the convenience of Turkish buses under the condition that I had plenty of flexible time to adjust my itinerary for this travel.

There was number hang outside for each office.The boarding site is not neccessary to be the same office that you buy ticket.Thus,you need to make sure the information is clear and ask your ticket seller to write down on your ticket,in case you'd forget.


　　　　後來從番紅花城回來的時候，下車的地點在巴士總站的旁邊的空地，我人生地不熟，經過巴士的車掌先生比手畫腳才知道要自己走上上面的公路，就可一眼看到巴士總站，再沿路繞過去就到了，約５分鐘，因為巴士總站占地非常廣，要走到捷運口，有段小距離。

Later on,when I got back from Safranbolu,I got off at a bus parking lot.I had never been here before,so I didn't know where to get to the Otogar station.However,the conductor told me with a lot of hand gestures to show me how to get there.Just go up to the upper road then you will see immediately that the Otogar station in plain sight,then it will take about 5 minutes by going along the road to the bus headquarter.Yes,it will take few minutes to get to metro entrance for a little of distance there.


　　　　長途巴士幾乎都配有２位司機，還有車掌先生或小姐服務，我覺得品質算非常好，如果沒有愛吵的小鬼就好了，天，小朋友可以好幾個小時一直說個不停，這是巴士的天生缺點，討厭這情形的就不要搭巴士了，你無法制止的，當地人很寵小孩。

Long distance buses have at least 2 drivers on board,plus Miss or Mr.conductor to serve passengers.All in all,I feel the quality was very good,if there were not annoying children.My goodness,little children could make noises for hours,which made my bus trip so uncomfortable.This is the shortcome that I'd think of about taking bus.If you hate this condition,then you might consider taking other vehicles instead.People here spoiled kids a lot,so you couldn't constrain them.



***
相關照片 Relevant Photos,
Otogar Bus Station

https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1576279402667034

OBS01-02,Bus Station.
OBS03 ,The tickets to Safranbolu and Sofia,Bulgaria

***





　　　 8.國立考古學博物館和托卡比皇宮,Archaeological Museum and Tokapi Palace.

　　　　這是位於蘇丹艾哈邁德廣場不遠處的觀光地點，走路也不用10分鐘就到門口了，走進古城牆左手邊就是整片公園，右手邊往山坡走上去，會先到考古博物館，出來後再往上走就到托卡比皇宮，這時總算博物館卡可以用了。

It is not far from Sultanahmet Square.It takes less than 10 minutes by foot to get to the front gate,then walk into the ancient wall,you'll see a whole park in the left,and walk up to the small hill,you'll arrive at the Archaeological Museum.Tokapi Palace Museum is a little further up the hill.And at last,my Museum card can be functional again.


　　　　當下好奇先往公園去，走了好久都還不到盡頭，還好公園整理得不錯，小部分施工中，但遊客還是很多，就往回走去參觀博物館了，考古博物館存放很多羅馬時期的石雕物品，年代久遠，雖然展出品很多是石棺上的雕刻，但展出場所規劃的很棒，有一展出廳就整個呈現古羅馬帝國的貴族屋室的結構，走在其中很有當時時空的生活感觸。外頭建物雖然在維修中（好像每間都在維修中），但裡頭的展出品非常值得參觀，不要錯過。

Due to curiosity,I walked to park first.The park was well managed,clean and neat,even though some parts were under construction,but there were many tourists there.It seemed to take me forever to walk.I went back heading to museums at the right of the gate after walking a long while.The Archaeological Museum had many pieces of stone sculptures from ancient Roman period,and most of them were gravestones with delicate carvings.The exhibition ocassion was well designed.They were even displaying a whole
layout of an ancient wealthy house in one particular indoor space,which made me feel like walking and living in old times.Parts of the building were under maintenance(it seems so for every famous tourist site.),but the exhibition was great,do not miss them because of the maintenance.


　　　　大門裏頭還有另外兩個較小間的博物館，國立考古博物館的對面還有裝飾磁磚博物館(Tiled Pavilion Museum)，是跟伊斯蘭文化相關的陶、瓷器和圖騰，另外是靠近門口的古代東方博物館(The Musuem of The Ancient Orient)，它的外面還有咖啡廳旁邊有放置很多古希臘和羅馬時期的石柱等，直接放在空地上形成一石林花園，外頭物品雖然沒什麼價值，但陽光穿梭其間很是視覺享受。

There are two other smaller museums inside the same premise of Archaeological museum.One is Tiled Pavilion Museum,displaying ceramics,porcelain utensils and totems regarding to Islamic culture.The other is The Musuem of The Ancient Orient,displaying stone scultures and carving from very old times(basically all is more than 3000 years) in this area.There is a cafe shop beside the later.Many less valued stone scultures and carving from Greek and Roman times are laid beside the cafe shop,which form into a stone forest creating an unique atmosphere.While walking among these stones with sunlight sifting into space like threads,I'd had a lot of fun enjoying the vision from my eyesight.

博物館沒有太多人參觀，我反而感覺很舒服，可是後頭觀光客聚集地之一的托卡比皇宮才是重頭戲，博物館出來後沿路上去，沒多久就聽到人聲就知道很多人在那裏了，前面花園已經很多人排隊或坐或站，後頭一團又一團的人跟著入園，前天才看過另一家皇宮，現在又一家，說實在的，現代的有錢人住的上億豪宅，只怕沒有這些皇宮差，只是沒有歷史背景加持罷了。

http://topkapisarayi.gov.tr/en
http://topkapisarayi.gov.tr/sites/default/files/geziplani.pdf

There were not many people visiting museums,but I felt wonderful for the quiet moment.I understood Tokapi was the main tourist site up there.I was out of museums then heading to Tokapi.Not for long,I'd heard people's noises coming from the first yard of Tokapi palace. Sure it was many visitors having already gathered there in lines or sitting or talking in clusters,and more tourists coming group by group.I had been at Dolma Bahce the other day,now Tokapi.To be frankly speaking,wealthy people nowadays might live in a more extravagant mension than these palaces ,except they were no history background to crown their lavish homes.

想自己逛又不想完全不知道皇宮歷史，現在大多數的觀光景點都有語音可以租，這裡20里拉(約NT$200)一台，我就懶得邊聽邊逛，每次出國都參觀至少30、40個點以上，到後頭前面都已經忘光了，所以我現在除非很有興趣或好玩的景點才會租，更遑論現場購買導遊解說，但是會事前稍微查一下景點背景，所以對我而言，對後頭的後宮寢居比較有興趣，應該活色生香吧?想到就很好笑。我因為是從考古博物館旁邊的路過來的，所以並沒有從大門進來，直接就進入第一前院的花園，就已經很多人了，花園四周有售票亭、咖啡館、還有一個教堂 (Hagia Eirene Church)，覺得還好，不過不能跟泰國曼谷的皇宮花園比，所以就晃呀晃的進入第二道大門排隊受了安檢，環顧四週感覺皇家的大門裝飾得美輪美奐，那後宮應該很值得期待，進入大門後就是二院花園，方方正正的格局，四周宮室有物品展出，跟著大家一起排隊觀看，一間又一間的，我忽然覺得好無聊，雖然那一顆寶石很大顆，但又不能照相也不能摸，就自己亂逛了，三院、四院花園已經沒在管了，後面會有金頂的涼亭，站在山坡上往外看，當然又是全覽海峽風光，官方建物很多都是在監視進出海峽的船隻，這是地理上的必然。

If you wanted to tour all by yourself,but had no knowledge about palace's history,fear not,now almost museums would have audio guide for rent.Here it costs Tr20(about NT$200) for each.
I was tired of listening to introduction and seeing around at the same time,So,I didn't rent.I might just forget all the information in few days,because I had visited too many sites already.I could visit 30-40 sites averagely for each travel,it has no way that I could remember every one of them clearly.Thus,now I would rent audio guide unless I had special interests in certain sites.Nonetheless,I would still dig some simple background prior to my visit to those sites.
To me,what Tokapi interested me is the Harem in the back of palace.I felt funny whenever thinking about the lustful aspect in harem's living.
I entered the first yard from side door coming from Archaeological museum,not from the first main gate.There were many tourists there already hanging around cafe shop,ticket booth,and Hagia Eirene Church.I felt it's all right if compared to the garden of Thailand's royal palace.
Then,I went to get in line ready to pass the check point for the 2nd yard.After I entered the 2nd gate,there was the 2nd garden in square shape. Rooms around the garden were exhibiting various royal objects.Even though the glanderous gate looked fantastic,and the diamond in one of the exhibiting rooms was huge,I slowly felt bored while waitting in line to enter rooms.So,I went to loiter myself along the palace,not caring which garden I was at anymore.When approached to the back ,I saw a pavilion with golden cap,right where was on the top of the hill,visitors could look over the whole view of the Strait.It is geologically logic for emperor to have a building up hill to watch out ships sailling to and fro the Strait.


皇宮的其他地方我覺得沒甚麼，所以趕快參加導覽後宮的班次，不可以拍照，所以由皇宮導覽員帶領著一間看過一間，逛的時候是很好玩，因為沒有想到風格滿質樸的，當然器具和磁暖爐都是很漂亮，這個皇帝也太不會玩了，也不會建一點遊樂設施，哈，差點忘了，皇太后也就是皇帝的媽媽也是住在這一棟，哈哈，不過後宮的隔音應該不會太好。最後出去的時候，我就特地從第一院正門回去了。

I finally felt bored ,and I quickly joined the English guiding shift for harem.Then I'd found out it was prohibited to take photos.Too bad.It was fun though as tour guide showed us one room to another.I had never thought that the deco and motiff were realistic and humble,of course royal utensils and porcelain heaters were pretty and expensive.But still,I felt the emperor had no fun.He should have built harem more sexual,hahaha,yeah,probably not,for I almost forgot that the emperor's mother lived in the harem too.Besides,the wall didn't look soundproofed.

In the end, I went back to my hotel by going through the first gate,that I had missed when entered.

***
相關照片 Relevant Photos,
Archaeological Museum

https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1576284489333192
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1576289485999359
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1576291065999201

ArMm01 ,The news stand on the way to Tokapi
ArMm02-07,Million Stone on the way to Tokapi
ArMm08-11,Random photos on the way to Tokapi
ArMm12-20,The Park in the right after entered.
ArMm21-26,On the way to Archaeological Museum.
ArMm27-49,The Musuem of The Ancient Orient.
ArMm50-58,The stone forest.
ArMm59 ,The office building.
ArMm60-71,Tiled Pavilion Museum
ArMm72-94,Archaeological Museum
-----------------------------------------------
Tokapi Palace
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1576295639332077
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1576300035998304


TPM01-05,The Front Gate of Tokapi Palace.
TPM06-12,The Garden of The First Yard.
TPM13-19,The Garden of 2nd Yard.
TPM20-30,The The Palace.
TPM31-41.The Garden of 3rd Yard.
TPM42-49,The Rear End of palace.


***



///continuing....未完待續...///

9.塔克辛廣場區Taksim Square和 卡拉達塔 Galata Tower


http://www.galatakulesi.org/

坐著T1到 Kabatas站，當天我是逛完多瑪巴哈切皇宮，回程的時候走回Kabatas站轉搭捷運到塔克辛廣場的，塔克辛廣場周遭是以流行服飾的商業街著名，所以可以看到很多紅男綠女，當然穿出漂亮、穿出有型，首要條件就是要年輕，這裡大多是年輕人的天下，也是觀光客聚集地，大人小孩都有，這裡最著名的觀光活動之一就是搭有懷舊風味的電車(T2線)，電車行駛的超慢也很短(參考交通地圖即可)，經過的街道就是大家最愛逛的獨立大道(Istiklal Caddesi)，路上行人穿梭不停，街頭藝人也會聚集人潮，有的商店也將攤子擺出來一點到路上，比如土耳其冰淇淋攤、小首飾攤等也會招來客人，電車當然就快不起來，所以我是用兩隻腳走的，個人感覺是冬天下雪的日子搭T2線的電車比較有風味。

I got off T1 at the station of Kabatas,and made a tour to Dolma Bahce Palace.I went back to Kabatas station again after the tour at palace,and then I took metro transferring to Taksim Square.Taksim Square is famous for fashion shops,and all youngsters like to hang around in this area, showing off their youth,styles and beauty.You can see not only chic young people,but also this area is a gathering center of tourists for all ages.
The most well-known activity here is to take the history Tramway,T2,which is full of nostalgic atmosphere.Tram runs very slow in T2 route,which is also very short(You can get the route in details from metro map as reference.).The tram goes through the famous Istiklal Caddesi(avenue),passing crowds of pedestrians,street artists,and so on.Some of shops even move their stalls outward a little further into the road,like Turkish ice cream stalls,small accessories stalls,all of which make the speed of tram contained.
I walked through the avenue and felt it would be more pretty and romantic to take a tram in winter time.


從捷運出來就是廣場上，馬上可以看見圓環正中間的一戰後共和國紀念碑，這種我是沒啥興趣，四周環顧了一下，周圍建築物並沒有很高，有點出乎意料，變得很空曠，圓環旁邊正是T2的電車的招呼站，電車會慢慢開到下一個捷運站 Sishane 附近，用走的可以慢慢逛到卡拉達塔，我並沒有想要在這裡購物，行李已經很重了，移動已經很辛苦，所以就走向卡拉達塔了。

I was at Square right after I got out of the metro exit.In the center of the Square was the Public monument,that I had no interests at all.I looked around and felt kind of being surprised to know there were no many skyscrapers around the Square,which made it spacious sort of.The T2 station was right by the Square.The tram drove slowly heading to the next station Sishane,and from there you could walk to Galata Tower.
I didn't have the mood to shop here,or have any intention to add my luggage's weight ,so I directly walked to Galata Tower.

在巷道中走著走著，抬頭一見卡拉達塔被簇擁在周圍房屋之間還真是一幅美麗的景象，來到塔下，旁邊有賣咖啡點心的餐車，周圍也是有餐廳、咖啡廳的，我知道塔上也有餐廳，往入口排隊，大廳旁的櫃台要買票，因為天殺的博物館卡又不能在這裡用，買好票排隊坐電梯，出電梯要爬個2、3層吧，會經過餐廳，最後當然就是在塔上窄窄的觀景陽台瀏覽四周美景，未免也太窄了，而且風還很大，手機可要拿好了。

I walked and walked in narrow lanes,and when I raised my head,I saw a beautiful and picturesque scene all of the sudden in front of me.Galata Tower was surrounded by delicate houses layer by layer.When arrived at the foot of the Tower,which were surrounded by many restaurants and cafe shops.I knew there was a restaurant up there too in the Tower.I wasted no time and went in line to pay my permission fee,for Museum Card,once more,was not valid here.
I went up tower by taking elevator.I went up 2 or 3 layers of stairs after elevator.I passed the restaurant there,and finally got into the narrow balcony of Galata Tower to enjoy the beautiful 360 degrees of panoramic view.The balcony was really narrow and it was windy up here,so you'd better hold tight your mobile phone as you took pictures.

塔上風光是真的美，如果大家不需要"excuse me"的走來走去就更美了，想要靜靜凝望美景又不想擠，可能要在樓下餐廳消費，然後坐在靠窗的位置了。

It would be a prettier sight,if people didn't move to "excuse me" all the time.If you like to enjoy the view quietly without being disturbed,then you might consider to book a table closing to a window at downstairs restaurant.

***
相關照片 Relevant Photos,
Galata Tower
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1578170349144606
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1578173049144336
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1578174369144204

Gt01-18,The Tower.
Gt19-25,Views around Galata Bridge.
Gt26-36,Views around Eminonu Ferry.

Rlf01-05,On Board to Rumeli Fortress.
Rlf06-08,extra pictures along the Strait.
Rlf09-16,Rumeli ferry and the host of the station.
Rlf17-23,The restaurant that nears Rumeli ferry and its host.
Rlf24-29.My tour was aborted by heavy rain,on the road to hills.

Ti01-06,On the road of Independence Avenue and Taksim Square.
Other part of the city.
Akr01-05,Around Aksaray Station.
Akr06-11,The biggest department store in this area(Aksaray),Victoria mall.

***



10.艾郁普蘇丹清真寺 Eyup Sultan Mosque 和Pierre Loti Cafe 皮爾洛帝咖啡館

背景background:

知名法國作家Louis Marie-Julien Viaud(1850-1923)，原是海軍軍官，用筆名Pierre Loti出過2本較知名的書，一本是"冰島漁夫"(Pecheurs D'Islande)，另一本是關於土耳其的"阿齊亞特"(Aziyade)，他旅遊過很多國家後，其中較喜愛土耳其，常常到山丘上邊俯瞰整個金角灣，邊沉思寫作，當時只有幾把小凳子，和簡單的爐子煮土式咖啡，原來茶館叫"Rabia Kadin Kahvesi"，現在就直接叫Pierre Loti Coffee House(Tarihi Pierre Loti Kahvesi)，事實上山上周遭商家和小攤販都會用Loti什麼什麼的當店名。

A renowned French writter,Louis Marie-Julien Viaud(1850-1923),was a navy official with penname "Pierre Loti".He had published books.Tow of them were more outstanding than others.One is Pecheurs D'Islande,the other is about Turkey's Aziyade.
He had traveled in many countries before settling down in Turkey.He went up to this hill where he could overlook the whole Halic Hatti bay,when he was working at his books.At the time,there were only few stools and a simple oven to cook Turkish coffee.The original cafe was "Rabia Kadin Kahvesi",which now is called Pierre Loti Coffee House(Tarihi Pierre Loti Kahvesi).As a truth of matter,many stores,shops,or small stalls in this area are using "Loti" in their store signs.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Eyup is a conservative neighborhood on north of the Golden Horn . It can be reached via the Halic Hatti ferry line from Uskudar, Karakoy, or Eminonu.
位在金角灣(Halic Hatti)北邊，捷運沒有到，電車也沒有到，所以要搭船去(不然你就坐巴士去)，我並不是要專門拜訪這家清真寺，而是位於山上的紀念洛帝的咖啡館，因為居高鳥瞰北金角灣，風景非常優美。很多人也許有疑問，認為是否值得一遊，我自己的結論是非常值得]。

Eyup couldn't be reached by metro cars or trams.So I took a ship to be there(or you could take a bus instead).Visiting its mosque was not my purpose,I was to visit the unique cafe shop,Pierre Loti Cafe.The Loti cafe shop was on the top of the small hill,it offered a magnificent sight of the north of Halic Hatti to see.If many of you had questions about its tourist value,I would say,don't be".It was totally worthy to pay a visit,and which was my conclusion.


船要在Eminonu碼頭再往旁邊走去，靠近巴士站那裏的另一個小碼頭搭金角灣航線(Golden Halic Line)，一直坐到Eyup Iskelesi碼頭下船。巴士站旁的小碼頭外面會貼船的班次時間，或裡面有放來回班次時間表的看板，大約每小時一班，我前幾天坐了博斯普魯斯海峽的郵輪，坐上癮了，金角灣還沒坐船玩過，所以喜歡搭船去，另外我不喜歡跟人家擠巴士，坐船變得非常輕鬆。

I walked over the bus station beside Eminonu port to get to the small ferry with Golden Halic line.I should get off my ship at Eyup Lskelesi ferry.At the ferry by the bus station,I'd found the timetable of ships inside the waitting room.It was about a ship per hour.I loved to take a cruise and since I had never had my Halic Hatti cruise yet,It's definitely to choose it as my transporting vehicle this time.Crowding buses wouldn't be my option,taking a ship made things easier to me.


Eminonu巴士站的旁邊有間大學，過個馬路到對面就有一個大市場，走入巷子馬上南北百貨都有，價格平實，這時想要採買的人可以在這裡買一些有的沒的，等船的時間，我買了兩套茶湯匙，一套鑲藍眼睛，另一套鑲各色寶石，來配我前幾天買的整套茶具(我瘋了，結果我帶著整套茶具遊歐洲)。
There was an University by the ferry,and a big market opposite to the road ahead.The traditional market offered with fair prices and diverse goods,that made me buy two set of spoons to cope with my tea set,while I was waitting for my ship to come during the time.One set of spoons has Turkish gems of Blue eye,the other was coated with various colors of gems.(I ended up to carry the whole set of tea utensils with me to travel Europe this time,really.....crazy.)

出了Eyup Iskelesi碼頭後，隨著指示標誌(其實是跟著大家走)過個馬路再走個不到10幾分鐘就到了清真寺，沿途會有很多商家販賣商品，我順手買了玫瑰身體乳，里拉10元一盒，品質不錯，用完後很後悔沒有大採買，也買了很多條唸珠鍊給家人，這裡稍微說明一下，當然大家比較知道保加利亞的玫瑰谷出產大量玫瑰，而且每年6月初還有玫瑰節，其實土耳其和東歐諸國(保加利亞、羅馬尼亞、匈牙利、和捷克等)都有出產玫瑰相關產品，因為是中古時期由印度輸出的玫瑰品種(突厥薔薇 Damascus Rosa)而來的，所以後來在保加利亞又大買了一些補貨，因為保加利亞物價比較便宜，買得非常滿足。

I exited the Eyup Iskelesi ferry,and followed the signs(I actually followed other tourists) to cross the road.It took me less than 10 minutes to arrive at the square of the mosque.
There were many shops and stores along the way.I bought some skin lotion with rose flavor.It was about Tr$10 a box.It's quality was nice and I was so regret that I didn't buy more after I used it back at my hotel.I also bought a lot of strings of rosary beans.
Here,I think I need to explain a little bit.It is common knowledge that Kazanlak rose Valley of Bulgaria exports quite a lot of rose products.It also holds a rose festival in the beginning of June yearly.The specimen of roses are "Damascus Rosa,which were imported from India in middle ages.In the route of the rose delivery,it didn't end at Bulgaria.Thus,basically all countries along the delivery route are producing rose products or relevant rose goods.Thus,when I next traveled to Bulgaria,I bought a lot of goods there to quench my thirst in this product.


我當時是想用走的上山，我是從清真寺廣場的方向去的(廣場剛好在做活動，中間有噴水池，四周都是商店很熱鬧)，花了很多時間，我覺得快要30-40分鐘，反正流了很多汗(應該過馬路後，先到艾郁普蘇丹清真寺後面公墓的路上去還比較近，約15分鐘路程)，不想跟我一樣的，可以在出碼頭，過馬路後，跟著指示標誌和問路人，往纜車站去上山，不用幾分鐘就可以到洛帝咖啡館，走到纜車站也不用幾分鐘就是，但是我是第一次來，想好好走走這地方，反正走上山一定是會流汗的，所幸安全到達，洛帝咖啡館是在公墓的上方，下山的時候我是走公墓的通道，公墓整理的非常好，每個墓地也都有人獻花，聽說墓碑上的墓誌銘是吸引人的一點，但是我看不懂。

I had decided to walk up to the hill.I started from the square of Eyup Sultan Mosque(there they were holding an activity,and people were around the fountain in the center of the square.Stores were full of customers and crowds were everywhere.It was hustle-bustle.). I thought I had spent too much time about 30-40 minutes to get there ,and I had perspired a lot.(I should have gone to the back of the mosque and taken the road beside it.It just took 15 minutes to get to the top)
Anyway,if you don't like to make it a sport,you might just get across the road after ferry exit,follow the sign or ask other people to get to the cable station.In few minutes,you'll get to the Loti cafe.However,I had made a decision to walk for the very first time in here.I got there safely anyway.Pierre Loti Cafe was above the cemetery.I walked down the aisle of the cemetery when going down hill.The cemetery was well managed and people were still coming to make a tribute with flowers.I had heard that the epitaphs were well-known,but it's too bad,I couldn't understand the language.



到了咖啡館後，本想坐在露天雅座喝個咖啡休息一下，沒想到全都客滿，人好多，我就直接進入皮爾洛帝咖啡館，哈，怎麼會這樣?裡面沒有人，土耳其跟其他歐洲人一樣喜歡坐外面，當然他們佔住了欣賞風景的位置，幾杯飲料可以坐很久，我只好慢慢在屋內欣賞紀念館的風采，順便也向櫃台點了一份土耳其咖啡，這是我第一次喝土耳其咖啡，皮爾洛帝咖啡館的土式咖啡品質非常好，館內不大，但是很有溫馨質樸的風味，濃郁香醇的土式咖啡滿足了我的味蕾，只是土式咖啡從來不是以量取勝，也沒有在過濾的，所以後頭沙沙的咖啡渣卻道盡土耳其人不著琢磨的個性，當然底層咖啡渣不要喝，坐了一會就去逛店內的紀念品了。

It was packed with people at the outdoor seats of Pierre Loti cafe.Too many customers already,but I entered inside to discover there was no other customers there.Ha ! how come? I guessed that Turkishes were acting like Europeans preferring to sit outdoor and enjoy sunshine.With few cups of beverages,they could sit for a long time.
Well,I had no choice,thus,I went inside to order my coffee.Meanwhile,I took a slow tour to appreciate the cafe(or museum if you prefer to call it this way.)
This was actually my first time tasting Turkish coffee.Pierre Loti Cafe provided an excellent Turkish coffee with high standard of quality.I was sitting in the cabin full of cozy,amiable,and modest motif ,while the coffee soaked my palate with dense aroma.Of course,I only drank the upper part of the coffee,and left the sediment of coarse,sandy coffee in the bottom of the cup.The way that Turkish coffee served was in quality and never in quantity.It also gave me a sense that Turkish people had down-to-earth characteristic and were unfined in personality.
I'd sat for a long while ,before I got up to tour around its souvenir shop.


咖啡館紀念品店內可以買到各國語言的版本，休息了滿久後，就出去了，既然露天座位全滿，那就往山上纜車站旁的觀景台欣賞金角灣風光也是可以，往山下樓梯下去一下子就到了，果然風光明媚，望著海灣中的兩座綠蔭清翠的小島，藍色的天空，白色的雲，波光粼粼的海水， 山上陣陣沁涼微風，靜靜凝望一會，是該離開了，忽然很想家鄉，因為知道這裡不是我的歸處。

You can find different language versions of Loti's publication here.I went out of the cafe after I'd made sufficient resting.It was still crowded at outdoor seats.Thus,I went to the observatory platform of the cable car station,where was just below the outdoor cafe.I got down stairs to be there right instantly.The view was stunning out of question.I was mesmerized while looking at the two green isles in the bay,feeling the breeze flowing across my skin, reflecting the light of the glistening sea waves in my eyes,in the blue sky,in the white clouds.I was petrified for some time,and then I thought of Kaohsiung out of blue.I missed it because I knew this was not my home.I'd go back home eventually.


回到碼頭，在碼頭旁邊有遊海的船出租，裝扮得像古時貴族的交通工具船，雖然好看，我可是眼尖的很，岸上風雖不大，但船在海上上下起伏滿大的，我應該會吐，所以才不要坐，直接回市區飯店結束了今天的旅程了。

Back to the ferry,I'd found there was a boat renting shop beside the ferry.All boats were adorned with royal style.Though they looked good,the boats were up and down violently from time to time on sea.There was no way that I might take one of them,I would throw up at this weather.Thus,I went straight back to my hotel and called it an end for today.


超清楚的地圖:


*** Part 2/2
相關照片 Relevant Photos,
Pierre Loti Cafe
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1578185805809727
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1578188975809410

PLc01-03,Setting off to Pierre Loti Cafef
PLc04-31,Around Eyup Sultan Mosque and its square.
PLc32-37,The road up to the cafe shop.
PLc38-54,Pierre Loti cafe.
PLc55-64,At the observatory platform near the cable car station.
PLc65-74,The road goes down through the cemetery.
PLc75-76,The boats that are renting.


***


continuing,but approaching to the end,待續但將告一段落。

11.有頂大市集 Grand Bazaar.

坐T1可以在Beyazit站下車，直接就在入口的街上，聽說在拓建，商店好多，Henry站的筆直的招呼我入座，殷勤的服務，白襯衫黑西裝長褲，介紹我吃全套燒烤，吃著吃著就閒聊起來，啊，我在每個地方好像都這樣會跟當地人互動，行為一定是很隨便懶散，要我下次再來，好吧，反正我頭腦都自動記一些有的沒的，休息一會，往市場去了，這趟旅程快要結束，我就要離開了，並不想買東西增加重量，兩旁服飾店一一走過，照個相還會有人跳進來被拍，看到印有T2車的T-Shirt，一時手癢又買了好幾件，入口有荷槍士兵維安，快速進入後，來到金光閃閃的首飾街(或走道)，買不起啊，而且也沒興趣，拐個彎，來到賣甜點的糖果街，吆喝聲不絕於耳，又拐個彎，來到五彩繽紛的燈具街，瓷器杯盤、小人像等等，一會又來到賣服飾和行李箱等等的街，沿路各店店員都會想與人攀談，以便銷售，行進中耳邊傳來清真寺廣播的聲音，來到公共洗手台，早就頭昏，腳也酸，不久，來到了咖啡街,出乎意料，每一家都裝潢得很有自己的特色，看看時間有點晚了，希望下次可以再來逛。

Take T1 and get off at the station of Beyazit,where is right on the front street to the entrance of Grand Bazaar.There were numerous stores and I'd heard that the market was still expanding.Henry stood straight at his restaurant,wearing white shirt and black long pants, soliciting customers to come inside.I ordered a whole set of grilled meats.Henry served me the meal with indigence.We chitchatted for a long while ,which came to me that I seemed to interact with local people this way whatever country I was in.I must have had the quality of personality that was lazily easy to get involved with people.Henry wanted me to visit his restaurant next time when I finished my lunch."Fine",I said.It wouldn't be a problem for my brain had a naughty habit in memorizing these trivial stuffs.

I was heading to the market's entrance,taking photos from time to time.Sometimes,young people made mischievous games to me like making a sudden move to jump in front of my camera while I was clicking the shot.My trip this time was drawing to its end,and at this moment I really didn't have any intention to buy more sounenirs to add up my luggages' weight.However,I was here at the Bazaar where were many fashion shops along the road to the entrance,and that seduced me.Of course,I ended up buying more T-shirts.

Passed the entrance quickly that was guarded by armed policemen,I came to the lane full of shops selling shining gold and gold accessaries. I couldn't afford to buy these and have no interests,either.Making a turn to other lane where was full of candy concession stands,I was bombarded by a series of selling yell from shop to shop.Walking on ,I came to the lane,where shops were decorated with various sparkling Turkish lamps,disks,and porcelain figurines,so colorful and pretty.Before long, I stepped into the lane that was selling diverse clothes ,suitcases and bags,when the broadcasting sound from nearby muslim temples hovering around my ears.Meanwhile,those salesmen were trying to attract your attention so that they could introduce their products to you.All of these was undergoing around a public rinsing vase stand.I arrived,finally at the coffee lane where I could ease my sour legs and dizzy brain.To my surprise,every cafe shop was decorated with unique style,which I was very pleasant to take a rest here.Later I took a glance to the clock to know it's quite late and time to leave.I hoped that I could come back next time.

***
相關照片 Relevant Photos,
Grand Bazzar
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1580525075575800

GB01-02,My lunch and Henry.
GB03-04,Lane that leads to entrance of Bazaar.
GB05-16,Grand Bazaar.

***




(5).重返伊斯坦堡。Back to Istanbul.

7月15日看著飯店裡的電視，幾天下來，在新國家初來乍到的新鮮興奮心情早已經平復，一路上來也終於來到這次旅程的最後一站，美麗的布拉格，遊客總是如織，無意識翻著手機，號外消息忽然躍上眼簾，土耳其發生軍事叛亂政變，總統Erdogan人不在首都安卡拉但不知去向，首都機場被叛軍控制，有人傷亡，心理一下子嚇了一跳，幸好我人早早離開，可是我還是需要回土耳其接回台灣的班機，那多等幾天看看情況再決定是否由布拉格直接飛回去，因為土耳其一下子發生這種事情，跟我印象中的土耳其內部情勢有出入，隔天長榮飛機被迫中途返回台北，沒辦法降落伊斯坦堡，我仍然掙扎是否要另買機票的決定中，再過一個星期，土耳其國內的情勢發展快如星火燎原的進展，總統Erdogan返回伊斯坦堡，率領軍警一一掃蕩反叛勢力，民眾也因為歷代先賢先烈的生命犧牲，要維護得來不易的民主自由體制，配合擁護現任執政黨的力量，在國家面臨動盪關頭一起上街頭發出抗議，橫跨歐亞兩洲的蘇丹艾哈邁德大橋擠滿主動表態的民眾，很快地由叛軍掌控的兩座大橋一一收復，民眾也主動配合警力，一起包圍了叛亂勢力，土耳其全國各地風起雲湧，民心團結同向，叛軍在沒有全面軍方和民意支持下，很快地就宣布失敗，伊斯坦堡Ataturk國際機場也很快宣布回復正常起降，注視著土耳其航空的網站即時公布欄，心下稍微安定下來，但是我想事情應該沒有那麼快可以結束。

That day,On July 15th,My eyes blankly stared at the TV in my hotel's room.The excitment being in a new country had died off in few days,and I also had come to the last stop,Prague,eventually.Beautiful Prague was always packed with tourists.
I flipped around my mobile senselessly and then a breaking news jumped up my eyes saying,A coup in Turkey broke out.President Erdogan was no where to be found in capital Ankara.The capital airport had falled into the hands of rebels,and there were people died and wounded in the armed conflicts.
What the....!!! I was surprised,even though I luckily left Turkey far before this event occurred.I still need to get back to Istanbul to catch up my connecting flight back to Taiwan according to my schedule.So,what to do ? I'd decided to wait for more few days to see if I needed to buy an airticket from Prague to Taipei directly,because this was not Turkey that I usually knew.
Next day,I kept following the news to know that Eve Airliners was forced to flew back to Taipei on the way to Istanbul.It couldn't land in Instanbul along with other countries' airplanes.However,I was still indecisive in purchasing an air ticket back to Taiwan from Prague.
Since I still had had plenty of time to make up my mine,I kept following the Turkey's situation,which had experienced a rapid and violent proceeding in the following week since then.President Erdogan had returned to Istanbul and started leading police and part of military forces to expel and arrest rebels.Meanwhile,Turkish people,in the moment of truth when their country was in jeopardy,were also showing their support to democracy they'd gotten by sacrificing many people's lives in the past, and held a huge demonstration by going out to crowd and take back the control of Sultanahmet Bridge and Galata Bridge,the two main bridges that links two continents,Europe and Asia.Very soon,the determination of having a steady and safe life swept everywhere in Turkey.People united together to resist the threat from the coup.The rebels was beaten very soon without having people's support.The coup has failed.
Reading the latest announcement on the board at Turkish Airliner,I felt composed much.Even though I had given it a thought that things wouldn't calm down that soon.



果然重新穩固腳步的Erdogan趁著民心支持安定的力量，開始進行一連串的清算報復動作，這些一連串的行政動作和命令，讓一般民眾或百姓不會主動跟外國人談及對政府的異見，很短的時間內，Erdogan 將國內軍、教、司法、公務部門中，將近2萬人解職和入獄，全都待審，2萬人是牽扯了多少家庭啊，清除異議者的勢力讓一般民眾也開始噤聲，逐漸全面掌控土耳其國家力量的總統，開始出現與歐盟不同的意見衝突，為了應付西方國家的批評，土耳其政府一方面展現強硬姿態，一方面運用各種資源來維持民意，全國在7月26-28日期間，公共交通一律免費，就是鼓勵民眾將畏懼的心理去除，儘量讓生活回復安定的步調，從而轉化成支持政府的力量，一時街頭人群穿梭不絕，熱鬧更勝以往，我在政變2個星期後，又重新回到了伊斯坦堡，晴朗白日藍雲下的街頭，在土耳其人一心維護安定的渴望下，日常生活已經感覺不太出來曾有經歷流血衝突。

After the coup failed,President Erdogan had regained the strength and taken the advantage of people's support,starting taking revenge on political dissidents.In a very short time,there were nearly 20,000 people arrested and forced to resign from their origional posts in different departments of millitary,education,jurisdiction,and public services.They all were put in jails.They were suffering from the failure of the coup along with their family members.Imagine so many families there were got involved in this event.People felt this also,and started to be silient about their government.
President Erdogan was gradually taking over all power.With this,he started to show tough approaches to flight back his counterparts' criticism in western countries.In order to lengthen the image of people's support,he opened all public vehicles free of charge letting people go outdoors as best as they could to create the supportive impression,during the time of July 26th to 28th.In a blink of eyes,there were more people hanging around streets than before.
I came back to Istanbul in two week's time after the coup.In the blue sky,under people's craves for a steady and safe daily living,I didn't felt there were once bleeding and cruel arms conflicts in the street any longer.



到底安不安全?我想百姓的行為是最好的說明，看著路旁堵住出入口翻覆的卡車，往機場的路上揮舞著土耳其國旗的激進人士，各主要觀光人潮景點持槍站崗的軍警人員，各行各業一口同聲"愛土耳其"的政治正確，即使逐漸穩定的日常生活，還是嗅得出一絲絲緊張氣息，我下塌飯店的女性主管仍然指出，這一段時間，女性在晚上還是不要出門比較好，但是尋求安穩生活是人類共同願望，因此我是樂觀看待土耳其國內情勢會很快地恢復以往。
Thus,was it safe in Instanbul?People's behavior would be the best evidence I thought.I'd looked at the truck that toppled over by the roadside to block an entrance,the police or soilders hold weapons guarding every gate of main tourist sights,and almost everyone chanted the same slang with political correct,"I love Turkey".Even daily life here was gradually restored,I still could smell a slight of tension.
Even though the hall manager at my hotel had made an advice that it would be better women stay at home at night,I began seeing the situation in Turkey would restore back to its previous condition very soon, with the confidence that I had in Turkish people.After all,having a steady and prosperous life style is all humans' expectation.


說到一如往常，伊斯坦堡街頭常常橫行的扒手，在全國交通免費下，又開始出來活動了，我的手機就是被摸走了，雖然沿途我一直防範警戒中，仍然遭殃，出門的人群真是太誇張的多，擠在人群裡正中扒手下懷，何況我是外國人，被當目標本來就是理所當然，這下子可慘了，因為這趟旅程的美好照片80%在手機裡，回飯店告訴了櫃檯，希望可以有比較好的主意，飯店幫我報了警，大廳經理Ellena也協助我報案，警察也來了，但並沒有做實際筆錄，我跟著大廳經理跑了兩趟警局，我來到了號稱"全土耳其最美的警察局"之稱的海濱(馬爾馬拉海)警察局(Yesilkoy Sehit Sakir Tosun Polis Merkezi Amirligi)，這個警局承辦人員跟我要手機的imei號碼以便追蹤，可是誰會沒事帶這個號碼，Ellena 用她的手機幫我撥回台灣，中華電信也沒有留我的資料，隔天我人就要回去了，當事人不在現場，警局傾向"吃案"，哈哈，案件不成立啦，我做人很是識相，算了吧，為了安撫我的失落情緒，警局長官邀請我一起在後花園喝了下午茶，吃吃麻花麵包，大家聊一聊天，拍拍照(還有帶平板備用)，看著海灘帶狗散步的人，心想，我現在是在幹嘛?忽然多出了一個景點?回飯店後，很快地用平板查了一下Google的雲端備份功能，哈，不幸中之大幸，竟然有備份，雖然手機遺失了，但美好紀念的照片和影音，總算保留了95%，休息整理了一下，到大廳和Ellena分享了這個好消息，人一振奮，我又有出去玩的精神了，明天就要回去，這個下午我還是要去外面逛逛玩玩，我與土耳其的緣分還真有點不同。

Speaking of being as usual,the well-known pocketlifters in Istanbul went back to business again.I was the new victim,my mobile was stolen without my knowing when it occurred.I just couldn't escape to be the target, as being a foreigner that made me even more distinctive in crowded Istanbul streets,even I kept vigil all the way.
Bad thing finally happened,what was I going to do about it?I hadn't had clear clue,so I went down to lobby to tell my hotel counter staff,hoping to have a piece of advice.My hotel called the police for me with the assistance of lobby manager,Ms.Ellena,I went to police station twice.The police officer at the station (Yesilkoy Sehit Sakir Tosun Polis Merkezi Amirligi) asked for my mobile's Imei code,well,how could I have it with me?which means the case couldn't stand,besides,I wouldn't be here tomorrow for I must leave to catch my flight.
In order to soothe my disappointed mood,the officers were so kind to invite me to their backyard to have some tea and bread.We chatted,talked a while at the so-called "the most beautiful police station in Istanbul",because it was by the sea beach,which made the premise like a resort.This became my unexpected tour spot in this journey.
After we went back to my hotel,I'd used my flat PC to check if the auto backup function working normal.It turned out fine.95% of my photos in this journey were saved.I was so thrilled to know this,which boosted my mood.I quickly shared this good news with Ellena,and decided to use the remaining time to keep on touring the city later.I think my fate intertwined with Turkey somehow in an unique way.


Hereby,I thank WOW Istanbul Airport Hotel,and its manager,Ms.Ellena.And the officers at the police station at Yesilkoy Sehit Sakir Tosun Polis Merkezi Amirligi,for the assistance and excellent service.May you all have a wonderful life forever.

***
相關照片 Relevant Photos,
Halic Station
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1580527842242190

HS01-23

***


.江山易改，後會有期。See you,Istanbul.(Ending.......)

本來想家的心情，在最後2天受到手機被竊，資料卻又有備份的上下反覆情緒中，早就煙消雲散，很想多留幾天，但好像又不需要，倦鳥要歸巢了，正想要拖著沉重的行李到捷運站去，服務人員一時被我的小費感動到，幫我叫了飯店免費的接駁車直接送到機場報到，真是喜出望外，本來只是想把為數不多的一些里拉當順水人情送給Porter，卻換來額外服務，人還真是不可以太計較，算來算去，算不贏天，近機場通道車輛必須停車受檢，附近還是有愛國分子繼續搖旗吶喊，機場WiFi雖然免費提供，但還是需要手機獲得確認碼，未入關前的大廳，有一家冰淇淋攤子，可以消費換密碼，不需再用到手機，對手機遺失的人就比較實用。

My homesick in the last two days had dissipated fully,all gone in the process of my mood being up and down in the minute that my mobile was stolen,and next minute data was saved.I felt like staying for more couples of days,but my schedule seemed to not comply with my idea on a whim.
I was going home.I still had some Turkish money left,so I gave some away to my porter.Surprisingly,in return he offered my a free ride to airport directly free of charge.I learnt that there were many things in life couldn't be calculated,and we shouldn't act tightfisted.A generous man could have a more generous gain.You'll never know.
Some people still swung national flags on the road to airport,and all cars must stop at the check points.
I finally reached at Ataturk International airport,where supplied free WiFi,but you needed your mobile to receive confirming code.I lost my mobile,but there was a ice cream concession stand in the lobby,where I bought its ice cream and got its password for its free WiFi,no mobiles needed then.


終於到達候機室了，回台灣的候機室在最後面幾個候機門，離海關非常之遙遠，不管如何，再會了土耳其，喝著手中的啤酒，往樓上看機場夜景，忽然一個西方人摔倒在樓梯，手上熱??的咖啡灑了一地，還好吧?心想:好了，我要回去了，不要再給我"意外驚喜"。還好沒有笑人家。

The gate to my flight was near the back of the airport asile.It was very far from airport customs.Anyway,I didn't wait there,I went to buy a pint of beer nearby my waitting room,and then I went to appreciate the airport night view upstair.Suddenly,a man tripped and fall on the stairs,his coffee splashed on the ground.I hold my laughing and asked,: Are you all right? I was thinking on my mind," please,no more surprises.".


土耳其是一個地理位置非常重要，觀光資源非常豐富的國家，只來一次是無法滿足，雖然一時政治動盪，相信土耳其很快可以恢復元氣，江山樣貌雖然歲歲月月不同，但藍天白雲下的清真寺叫拜塔依然聳立千年不移，後會有期了。

The geographical location of Turkey shows its importance,and people shouldn't be content by just visiting it one time,for Turkey is a country full of natural resources.I believe that Turkey will restore its glory pretty soon.We'll get aged in time,but there are things like minarets standing for thousands of years in the clean,blue sky.I believe we meet again there,see you,Istanbul,till someday.

***
相關照片 Relevant Photos,

Police Station,Wow hotel and Airport
https://www.facebook.com/trevor.chang.587/posts/1580531422241832
PS01-05,Police station.
WHA01-03,WOW hotel.
WHA04-11,World Trade Center.
WHA12-14,Airport.

***

/// 全篇完 The End ///