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© Lonely Planet Publications

CO NTE NT S INTRODUCING TOKYO 2 HIGHLIGHTS

4

THE AUTHORS

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GETTING STARTED When To Go Costs & Money Internet Resources

16 16 20 21

BACKGROUND History Arts Architecture Environment & Planning Government & Politics Media

22 22 30 38 40 41 42

NEIGHBOURHOODS Itinerary Builder Imperial Palace & Marunouchi Central Tokyo Ginza Tsukiji & Shiodome Akihabara & Kanda Ueno TOKYO POP Asakusa Akasaka Roppongi Ebisu, Daikanyama & Meguro Shibuya Harajuku & Aoyama Shinjuku Ikebukuro Sumida River Odaiba

43 46 50 55 61 64 67 70 77 85 91 94 100 105 109 114 121 125 130

SHOPPING Imperial Palace & Marunouchi Ginza Asakusa Central Tokyo Roppongi Ebisu & Daikanyama Shibuya Harajuku & Aoyama Shinjuku Ikebukuro Odaiba

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EATING Imperial Palace & Marunouchi Central Tokyo Ginza Tsukiji & Shiodome Akihabara & Kanda Ueno Asakusa Akasaka Roppongi Ebisu & Daikanyama Shibuya Harajuku & Aoyama Shinjuku Ikebukuro Sumida River Odaiba & Around

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ENTERTAINMENT Dance Opera Classical Music Bars Karaoke

175 177 178 178 178 184

136 136 138 138 139 140 141 142 145 146 147

156 157 158 160 160 161 162 163 164 165 167 168 169 171 173 173

© Lonely Planet Publications

I NTRO DUCI N G TO K YO

TOKYO LIFE Tokyo never stops. Change trains during rush hour at Shinjuku Station and you’ll experience Tokyo at its most dizzying, with rivers of people pouring from the platforms. Gaze out from the observation deck at the nearby Metropolitan Government Offices and you’ll see a vast labyrinth of a city that seems to continue forever. This metropolis of over 12 million people (expand that to 33 million if you include the greater metropolitan area) has been constantly reinventing itself following natural disaster, war and an endless architectural construction-demolition cycle. Tokyo is far from beautiful, but it is totally modern. What it lacks in greenery and historic structures is made up for by an almost playful chameleon character, with new redevelopment zones transforming neighbourhoods like Roppongi, Marunouchi and Shiodome into chic new centres of entertainment, business and media. Grand municipal schemes to host the Olympic Games in 2016 and to bury elevated expressways may again reconfigure the urban landscape. Meanwhile, yet another subway line will be added when the Fukutoshin Line starts funnelling people between Ikebukuro and Shibuya in 2008. Even though Japan’s population has started a long decline because of low birth rates and zero immigration, Tokyo is still evolving. Social pressures are often the subject in izakaya (Japanese-style pubs). The government seems incapable of preparing for the system-wide shock that workforce shrinkage will deliver to the slowly recovering economy. Leaders are often mired in corruption scandals, yet the Japanese have kept the same party in power virtually uninterrupted since 1955. Between beers, they may say there are no viable alternatives. Politics is a prickly subject, and touchier topics like Tokyo’s Yasukuni Shrine honouring the war dead, and indeed WWII in general, are best avoided. The most popular visitors are usually those with a deep curiosity for Japanese culture, and Tokyoites delight at trying to explain their native foods, social etiquette or the writing system. Tokyo’s millions are almost as intensely interested in themselves as outsiders, and devour articles on the sex lives of the elderly, the latest schoolgirl prostitution scandal or trends in yoga for pets. Turn on the TV and you’re bound to see infantile buffoonery on the variety shows and firemen belting out their best enka blues on the national karaoke programme. Beneath its staid corporate face, the city is a child at heart. Tokyo’s joie de vivre, frantic pace and pure energy never lets up.

Women in kimonos outside Kubuki-za (Kabuki Theatre, p61), Ginza

Tokyoites inhabit a singular capital inimitably yoking past and future, where Zen temples nestle in sci-fi cityscapes and centuries-old madness for cherry blossoms coexists with an insatiable desire for nonstop novelty. Old and new are forever juxtaposed in Tokyo: its residents are at home both donning loincloths to shoulder a portable Shinto shrine through Asakusa’s religious festivals and piloting humanoid fighting machines in Akihabara’s robot sport tournaments. Tradition, happily, is not ossified, but feted along with innovation. The workaholic stereotype is very true – death from overwork is legally recognised in Japan – but stroll through a neon-lined row of Shinjuku yakitori joints on the weekend, or any cherry grove in spring, and you’ll see that people take pleasure very seriously here. There is ever-flowing sake, deep respect for freshly filleted fish and heartfelt karaoke, and constant curiosity about how outsiders view this archipelago at the end of the world. Orderly, efficient Tokyo works stunningly well for a metropolis its size, yet it has about as many masks as there are hostess clubs in Kabukichō. Peeling back each façade reveals a city that’s far less Western than first impressions suggest; nearly everything Tokyoites do, from taking out the trash to cheering a ball game, is profoundly un-Western. Their reverence for ritual, courtesy and the power to ganbaru (persevere) gives this super-dense megalopolis a calm at the heart of the storm. This is wa – social harmony – and it’s the force that makes Tokyo more a series of one-of-a-kind experiences than a collection of sights.

2

Bright lights illuminate the classic meeting place outside Studio Alta, Shinjuku (p114)

3

© Lonely Planet Publications

TH E AUTH O R S Matthew D Firestone

Matt is a trained anthropologist and epidemiologist who should probably be in the midst of a successful academic career by now, though somehow he can’t seem to pry himself away from Japan. Smitten with love after a fifth grade ‘Japan Day’ fair, Matt started down the road to being a full-fledged Japanophile after being diagnosed with a premature taste for green tea and sushi. After graduating from college and moving to Japan to work as a bartender, Matt taught himself Japanese while learning a thing or two about the Tokyo underworld. These days however, he prefers moonlighting as an English teacher when he’s not on the road writing guidebooks to far-flung locales in Africa and Central America.

MATT’S TOP TOKYO DAY Exploring every corner of Japan’s sprawling capital can take several lifetimes, especially since each of Tokyo’s neighbourhoods is defined by its own unique urban stylings. However, a great introduction to the city is to walk from Harajuku through Aoyama to Shibuya, which takes in historic temples, ultramodern storefronts, cos-play (costume play) kids and high fashion–clad yuppies. Starting at Meiji-jingū (p109), one of Tokyo’s most historic

shrines, wind your way down Omote-sandō (p142). Along the way you’ll pass by trendy teens sporting bizarre fashions, as well as Tokyo’s rich and beautiful frequenting a whole slew of name-brand boutiques. After arriving in Shibuya (p105), get lost in the urban jungle of neon-lit streets for a bit of retail therapy.

Timothy N Hornyak

A native of Montreal, Tim Hornyak moved to Japan in 1999 after watching Kurosawa’s Ran one too many a time. Since then he has written on Japanese culture, technology and history for titles including Wired News, Scientific American and Far Eastern Economic Review. He plays bass in a rock band in Tokyo, has lectured on Japanese robots at the Kennedy Center in Washington, and has travelled to the heart of Hokkaidō to find the remains of a forgotten theme park called Canadian World. His interest in haiku poetry has taken him to Akita-ken to retrace the steps of Basho, as well as to Maui to interview poet James Hackett. His favourite robot is Astro Boy, but he firmly believes that the greatest Japanese invention of all time is the onsen (hot spring).

LONELY PLANET AUTHORS Why is our travel information the best in the world? It’s simple: our authors are independent, dedicated travellers. They don’t research using just the internet or phone, and they don’t take freebies in exchange for positive coverage. They travel widely, to all the popular spots and off the beaten track. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, cafés, bars, galleries, palaces, museums and more – and they take pride in getting all the details right, and telling it how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.

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© Lonely Planet Publications

WHEN TO GO As one of the world’s most exciting cities, Tokyo will enchant regardless of when you visit. In fact, if you take a quick look at the calendar of festivals (see right), you’ll quickly realise that Tokyo hosts a number of big events every single month. Festivals aside, the weather can have an impact on your trip, especially since summers (June to August) are stiflingly hot and humid, while the winter chill (December to February) can severely limit your outdoor time. But if you happen to time your visit to coincide with the blooming of the cherry blossoms in the spring (March to May) or the changing of the leaves in autumn (September to November), you’ll catch Tokyo at its best.

ADVANCE PLANNING Check out some of Tokyo’s top websites (p21) and find out the latest from local media, including expat magazines. Check to see if your trip coincides with popular festivals (right). Make sure your passport and other documents are in order. Give some thought to possible itineraries (p46) and how to best manage your time, especially if you are planning some excursions (p218). Scout around for a good hotel (p202) and consider which restaurants are worthy of your yen (p150). On the day before you leave, reconfirm your fight (and make sure the oven is turned off ).

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Otherwise you might want to time your visit so you can catch one of several annual sumō tournaments, which take place in January, May and September (see p125), or perhaps a baseball game or two (p198), which are played from March to October.

FESTIVALS

Old Edo was home to an abundance of matsuri (festivals), which originated in farming communities as expressions of the Shintō religion. Spring festivals were held to supplicate the local gods and to secure a plentiful harvest, while autumn festivals were held in thanks and celebration of a rich harvest. Summer and winter festivals were less common, though this changed with the rise of large urban settlements, where they were held in the hope of circumventing pestilence and plague. Today, Tokyo’s civic calendar is jam-packed with matsuri as well as a mix of events from traditional flower viewings to trade shows covering everything from motorcycles to design. For a list of Japan’s national holidays see p249.

January & February SHŌGATSU (NEW YEAR’S HOLIDAY)

1 to 3 January While Tokyo comes to a virtual halt on the first few days of the year (also referred to

SETSUBUN

3 or 4 January Setsubun marks the first day of spring in the traditional calendar, a shift once believed to bode evil and bring disaster. To ward off the oncoming evil, temples erupt into metaphysical food fights as rowdy suppliants throw tiny sacks of roasted beans and shout, ‘Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!’ (‘Devil out! Fortune in!’).

SEIJIN-NO-HI (COMING-OF-AGE DAY) 15 January Arrows fly at Meiji-jingū (p109) during traditional archery displays in the celebration of the world of the grown-up.

QUIRKY EVENTS Hari-kuyō (February; left) Setsubun (February; left) Design Festa (May & November; p18 & p20) Takigi Noh (July & August; p18) Samba Carnival (August; p19)

UME HANAMI

Early March Before the riot of cherry blossoms comes to town, the plum trees do their own number. Mt Takao, in far western Tokyo, fairly explodes with them. The closest station to Mt Takao is Takaosanguchi Station on the Keio Line.

HIWATARI MATSURI

Mid-March Mountain monks take the lead in this festival in Mt Takao by walking over hot coals. If you’re feeling invincible (or drunk), you’re also welcome to try.

ST PATRICK’S DAY PARADE

Mid-March

www.inj.or.jp/stpatrick_e.html Sometime around 17 March, crowds line the Omote-sandō route (Map p110) rain or shine for the wearin’ and drinkin’ of the green. The parade is usually led by local Irish dignitaries and well attended by Tokyo’s sizable, cohesive and always merry Irish expat community.

HANAMI (CHERRY-BLOSSOM VIEWING) Late March to April

HARI-KUYŌ Early February Women mourn the passing of broken pins and needles by burying their beloved sartorial pals in cubes of tofu or in radishes at Sensō-ji (p85).

Late March through April sees the muchanticipated and glorious reign of the cherry blossom. See the boxed text (p20) for details on the best spots for these blossom-viewing parties.

March & April

TOKYO INTERNATIONAL ANIME FAIR Late March or Early April

HINA MATSURI (GIRLS’ DAY)

3 March Homes and public spaces are decorated with squat dolls dressed in the traditional dress of the hina (princess). Around this time, dolls made by children are set adrift on the Sumida River (Map p86) from Sumida-kōen near Azuma-bashi. There’s also a Boys’ Day held in May (see Otoko No Hi, p18).

GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO

GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO

Diving head first into the world’s largest megalopolis is daunting to even the most intrepid of travellers. From language barriers and cultural shock to budget woes and the ever present threat of getting lost, Tokyo is not exactly the gentlest of destinations. With that said, the challenge of seeking out the heart and soul of modern Japan is rewarding in itself, especially since Tokyo never ceases to assault your senses and blow your mind. Depending on your preferred style of travel, a trip to Tokyo can be as organised or as spontaneous as you’d like it to be. In the modern age of travel, all of your accommodation can be booked online before you ever step foot on a plane, and there is no shortage of guided city tours (see p255) to help you catch your bearings. But, Tokyo is perhaps best experienced by simply putting down the guidebook, getting lost in the crowds and finding your own secret corner of the city. Truth be told, Tokyo is the most expensive destination in Asia, and you certainly will not be able to survive here on a shoestring budget. However, one of the biggest misconceptions about Japan is that it is prohibitively expensive – on the contrary, Tokyo is arguably a better bargain than New York, London and most European capitals. Of course if you do have the cash to burn, Tokyo will roll out the tatami mat for you, and cater to your every conceivable whim without sparing even the slightest bit of style and class.

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G E T TI N G STAR TE D

as O-Shōgatsu, ‘Honourable New Year’), the city’s large Shintō shrines and Buddhist temples swell with visitors; Sensō-ji (p85) and Meiji-jingū (p109) are good places to start. Although both of these places get extremely crowded – Meiji-jingū gets millions of visitors alone – it can be a particular thrill to be part of the crowds of people from all walks of life, many of whom are dressed in fine kimono and purchasing seasonal trinkets. You may also want to stop in at Yasukuni-jinja (p55), where the shrine’s dramatic nō (stylised dance-drama) is performed in honour of the shrine’s god. On 2 January, you should consider a visit to the Imperial Palace (p50) as the emperor and imperial family make a brief appearance in one of the inner courtyards – it’s one of the very rare occasions when visitors are allowed a glimpse into imperial life behind bulletproof glass.

www.taf.metro.tokyo.jp/en Tokyo’s International Anime Fair at Tokyo Big Sight (Map p131) brings in everyone from the 17-year-old animephile living next door to big-screen voice actors and some 170 exhibitors. Sorry, cos-play (costume play) is sadly not permitted inside as the decorum of this bit of the event is surprisingly serious – in an anime sorta way.

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First Week in April Happy birthday Buddha celebrations happen across Japan. Look for the parade of children in Asakusa, pulling a white papiermâché elephant.

TOKYO MOTORCYCLE SHOW Early April At Tokyo Big Sight (Map p131) the biggest motorcycle show in Japan has been letting the good times roll since the 1970s.

May & June 5 May This is the male counterpart to Hina Matsuri (see p17). Homes where boys live fly koinobori (banners or windsocks in the shape of a carp), a symbol of strength, never-ending struggle and other masculine virtues.

KANDA MATSURI

Mid-May

www.kandamyoujin.or.jp One of the city’s three big matsuri, this festival features the obligatory music, dancing and a healthy dose of sake. The highlight is the parade of mikoshi (portable shrines) through the streets of Kanda (see Kanda Myōjin, p69).

SANJA MATSURI

Mid-May Another one of the city’s three big matsuri, this three-day festival attracts around 1.5 million spectators to Asakusa-jinja (p86). The highlight is watching half-naked men (and women, although not half-naked) carry more than a hundred mikoshi around the shrine and neighbouring Sensō-ji. The crowd sheds its reserve and things get rowdy, so grab a beer or two and feel free to jump into the action and let it all hang out – so to speak.

DESIGN FESTA

Mid- to Late May

www.designfesta.com At Tokyo Big Sight (Map p131), this two-day arts and design fair brings in 6000 exhibitors (professionals and amateurs alike) and some 50,000-plus visitors, making it the biggest art event in Asia. Also held in midNovember (see above).

IRIS VIEWING

Early to Mid-June

Mizumoto-kōen (3-2 Mizumoto-kōen, Katsushikaku) & Horikiri Iris Garden (2-19-1 Horikiri, Katsushika-ku)

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SANNŌ-SAI

Mid-June Tokyoites turn out to Hie-jinja (p91) for this matsuri with music and dancing and the usual frenetic procession of mikoshi, at the former protector shrine for Edo Castle.

July & August INTERNATIONAL GAY & LESBIAN FILM FESTIVAL

Mid-July

IGLFF; www.tokyo-lgff.org; various venues An outgrowth of the Gay Art Project, IGLFF has nearly 20 seasons beneath its belt. The festival highlights the best gay and lesbian films from both Japan and around the world.

SUMIDA RIVER HANABI

Last Saturday in July Summertime in Japan is synonymous with exhibitions of fireworks (hanabi), which happen throughout the country. The ones on the Sumida River (Map p86) are among the most spectacular around. Although you may have seen fireworks displays elsewhere, they probably haven’t prepared you for the grandness of this one, which goes on, marvellously, for hours.

TAKIGI NOH

July or August As the summer weather starts to peak, shrines, temples and parks stage evening outdoor nō backlit by bonfires. Meiji-jingū (p109), Kichijoji Gesoji and Shinjuku (Map p116) are the usual spots for evening performances within the city limits. This is a great bit of old Edo that has been preserved in modern Tokyo.

O-BON Mid-August For several days, Japanese city dwellers return to their ancestral provinces to gather with family and visit the graves of ancestors, marking the time when Buddhist teaching says the dead revisit the earth. Bon-odori (folk dances) by people in yukata (light cotton kimono) are held throughout Japan, but the one at Yasukuni-jinja (p55) is famous, illuminated by bonbori (paper lanterns).

FUKAGAWA HACHIMAN

Mid-August The latest of the city’s three big matsuri is famous for its traditional chant of ‘wasshoi! wasshoi!’ as spectators pour sacred water over the mikoshi carriers along the route. Needless to say, everyone gets wet, which is certainly welcomed if the August sun is beating down. Tomioka Hachimangū (p125) is located near Monzen-nakacho Station on the Tokyo Metro Tozai Line.

KŌENJI AWA ODORI

Late August More than 10,000 participants do the Fool’s Dance along a 2km stretch. If you happen to find yourself along the parade route at Kōenji Station (Map pp48–9), you’re welcome to break into your own rendition.

SAMBA CARNIVAL

Last Saturday in August This universally loved event, which is staged by the Nikkei Brazilians, features roughly 3500 dancers moving their fleshy way down Kaminarimon-dōri in Asakusa (Map p86) past a half-million spectators. The dancing is topnotch, and the judged competition is fierce, drawing dancers all the way from Rio.

Mid-September

www.tgs.cesa.or.jp; Makuhari Messe Get your geek on when the Computer Entertainment Suppliers Association stages this massive expo at a convention centre on the way to Narita Airport (Makuhari Messe is about 30 minutes east of Tokyo, via the JR Keiyō Line from Tokyo Station to Kaihin Makuhari Station). The holding of the event in 2008 marks its 17th year, and you can expect more than 130 exhibitors and 175,000 visitors over three days.

NINGYŌ-KUYŌ Late September Childless couples pray for children by offering dolls to Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy. More interesting for spectators is the ceremonial burning by priests of all the dolls held in the temple precinct from the previous year. See Kiyōmizu Kannon-dō (p71) for more info. TOKYO INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL

EDO TENKA MATSURI Late October This festival in Marunouchi (Map pp52–3) began in 2003 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of Edo, and is held every two years (next is 2009). You’ll find exhibits and demonstrations of traditional Edo crafts, as well as a parade of mikoshi. TOKYO METROPOLITAN CHRYSANTHEMUM FESTIVAL Late October to Mid-November Chrysanthemums are the flower of the season (as well as the flower of the imperial family), and this dazzling display in Hibiyakōen (p61) is certainly cause for celebration, and has been ever since 1914. You can also catch dazzling chrysanthemum displays at Shintō shrines, including Meiji-jingū (p109) and Yasukuni-jinja (p55).

November & December

September & October TOKYO GAME SHOW

TIFF – the biggest in Asia – maintains its integrity by keeping a feature-length film competition at its core. The TIFF pays special attention to films from Asia, although there are always selections in English.

GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO

GETTING STARTED WHEN TO GO

OTOKO NO HI (BOYS’ DAY)

These parks in Eastern Tokyo show off more than 100 unique iris species. Saturdays and Sundays bring drum performances and larger crowds; weekdays are better for a quiet walk. These parks are best reached by taking the Keisei Line to Kanamachi Station.

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HANA MATSURI

Late October

TIFF; www.tiff-jp.net Bigger doesn’t necessarily mean better when it comes to film festivals, though the

TOKYO JIDAI MATSURI (FESTIVAL OF THE AGES)

3 November On National Culture Day, locals, dressed in splendid costumes representing figures from Japanese history parade around the Sensō-ji temple precincts in Asakusa (Map p86). This festival takes after a much bigger (and older) one in Kyoto, held a couple of weeks earlier.

TOKYO DESIGNERS’ WEEK Early November www.tdwa.com Video, furniture and fashion are a few of the genres represented at venues around the city, mostly in arts enclaves such as Aoyama, Harajuku and Roppongi. Parties happen in the evenings.

SHICHI-GO-SAN (SEVEN-FIVETHREE FESTIVAL) Early to Mid-November This adorable festival celebrates children of these tender ages, who were once thought to be in danger of imminent misfortune. Parents dress girls aged seven and three and boys aged five in wee kimono and head to Shintō shrines and Buddhist temples throughout town, grandparents often in tow. It’s a prime photo opportunity.

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© Lonely Planet Publications The city’s trees undergo magnificent seasonal transformations during kōyō. For listings of optimum foliage-viewing pleasure, see boxed text, (below).

DESIGN FESTA

Mid-November

www.designfesta.com; This enormous art and design festival at Tokyo Big Sight (Map p131) is held for a second time in mid-November. See also p18.

This biennial event organised by the Japan Robotics Association and friends attracted more than 100,000 people in 2007. The next event scheduled is for 2009.

TOKYO IN BLOOM Owing to the seasonal nature of Japanese culture, monitoring the progress of spring blossoms and autumn foliage is an obsession up and down the archipelago – the national news carries maps of their progress. Even though Tokyo is largely hemmed in by concrete, blossom-viewing and leaf-peeping are still a big deal.

Hanami Cherry blossoms seem to burst out overnight sometime between the end of March and the beginning of April, representing the climax of spring. Hanami (cherry-blossom viewing) parties begin with the earliest buds and endure to the last clinging blossoms. Both daytime parties and moonlit soirees are standard, as crowds flood the parks with beer and good humour. Hama Rikyū Onshi-teien (p66) – there are about a hundred cherry trees here, including a few wild varieties. A small admission fee keeps the crowds at bay. Zōjō-ji (p98) – about a hundred trees are found here at Shiba-kōen, with the temple for a backdrop. Shinjuku-gyōen (p119) – a prime cherry-blossom attraction, this garden has several varieties of cherry trees, including the spectacular yaezakura (double-blossoming cherries). Ueno-kōen (p70) – ground zero for the hanami explosion as enthusiasts vie for the best angle on Ueno’s 1000 flowering trees. Yasukuni-jinja (p55) – there are more than a thousand cherry trees in the grounds of the shrine; check out the cherry trees lining the nearby Imperial Palace moat as well. Yoyogi-kōen (p108) – there is plenty of space here to stretch out and admire the park’s 500 or so cherry trees.

Kōyō During the kōyō (autumn foliage season), which runs from about mid-October to early November, Tokyo’s trees virtually explode in colour. Look especially for the maple, which goes through a minor spectrum of yellows and oranges before climaxing in a fiery red. Some of the best spots include the following. Kitanomaru-kōen (p51) – located just north of the Imperial Palace, this grassy expanse is a great place for an autumn stroll and/or a picnic. Koishikawa Kōrakuen (p58) – a lovely pond and surrounding gardens make this park one of Tokyo’s best foliage spots. Shinjuku-gyōen (p119) – this sprawling garden’s many leaf-peeping locales include the Western-style garden. Ueno-kōen (p70) – as popular for autumn foliage as for cherry blossoms. Yasukuni-jinja (p55) – the tree-lined walkway leading to this temple explodes in a fury of autumn colours. Yoyogi-kōen (p108) – this sprawling park is dotted with picturesque ginkgo, zelvoka and cherry trees.

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HOW MUCH? 1L petrol ¥135 1L bottled water ¥145 Kirin beer at a bar ¥700 Kirin beer from a vending machine ¥300 Pack of cigarettes ¥280 Souvenir T-shirt ¥2000 Onigiri (rice ball) ¥120 Cup of coffee in a café ¥450 Cinema ticket ¥1800 2km taxi ride ¥660

value than one to London, Paris or any other European capital. Although shoestringers will have to part with a bit more cash than they’re perhaps used to, it is possible to survive in Tokyo for around ¥5000 a day, though you will have to sleep in dormitories, subsist on noodles and rice, and limit your sight-seeing to cut down on entrance and transport fees. More realistically, a budget of ¥10,000 to ¥15,000 will allow you to bed down in a private room, sample Tokyo’s spectacular culinary offerings and snap a few hundred shots at sights around the city. If money is no object, then welcome to paradise – Tokyo is a rich person’s fantasy come true. Throughout this book, we have broken down sleeping and eating listings based on price. For instance, budget sleeps are rooms costing ¥6500 or less, midrange rooms cost between ¥6500 and ¥16,000, and top-end rooms will cost more than ¥16,000. Budget eats will cost around ¥1000 or less for lunch, and ¥2000 or less for dinner. A quality midrange meal can run upwards of ¥5000, while haute cuisine can easily run to ¥20,000 per person. As any Tokyoite will tell you, you don’t need to raid the shelves of the convenience

INTERNET RESOURCES

There is a vast treasure trove of Japan-related info on web. Before touching down in Tokyo, take a few moments to check out the following sites: Hyperdia (www.hyperdia.com) Having problems finding your way around Tokyo? Resident expats use this English site to make sense of Tokyo’s overwhelming transportation grid. Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO; www.jnto .go.jp/eng) The JNTO offers an extremely comprehensive guide to tourism in Tokyo and the whole of Japan. Japan Times (www.japantimes.co.jp) Tokyo’s most widely circulated English-language newspaper is a great way to catch up on the latest Japan headlines. Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Includes summaries on travelling in Tokyo, the Thorn Tree Forum, travel news and links to the most useful travel resources on the web. Metropolis (www.metropolis.co.jp/default.asp) Japan’s most popular English-language weekly magazine is a great insight into what’s happening around the country. The Man in Seat 61 (www.seat61.com) The source for all your train-related inquiries in Japan as well as the rest of the world. Tokyo Notice Board (www.tokyonoticeboard.co.jp) From apartment listings to job openings, this weekly Englishlanguage classified zine is worth checking out.

GETTING STARTED INTERNET RESOURCES

GETTING STARTED COSTS & MONEY

INTERNATIONAL ROBOT EXHIBITION Late November to Early December

COSTS & MONEY

Tokyo, once known as an impossibly expensive city, has become a lot more affordable in the last 10 years – or at least prices have frozen, giving the rest of the world a chance to catch up. Truth be told, it’s still possible to spend thousands of dollars on a five-star hotel room, and wine and dine on gourmet cuisine until your bank account is in the red, but Tokyoites are quick to point out that their city is as expensive as you want it to be. In fact, for every upmarket hotel or sophisticated restaurant in the capital, there are numerous affordable guesthouses and cheap noodles shops scattered about. And, in light of the recent plummeting of the US dollar and the strengthening of the British Pound and the euro, a trip to Tokyo is arguably better

stores or to eat rāmen (noodles) three times a day to survive here. Generally speaking, anything that requires a lot of space costs a lot (eg bowling alleys, cinemas, domestic produce), so you can save a bit if you avoid these minor pleasures. Also, although most museums and cinemas don’t generally offer discounts to adults, concessions are usually available to students, children and senior students. And finally, you should know, too, that Tokyo’s little-kept secret, the bargain lunch set, can sometimes put your foot in the door at places that might otherwise be beyond your budget.

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KŌYŌ (AUTUMN FOLIAGE SEASON)

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ 21

© Lonely Planet Publications Continued from previous page.

Clubs Live Music Comedy Cinemas Jazz SPORTS & ACTIVITIES Health & Fitness Watching Sport

184 186 187 188 189 191 192 197

SLEEPING Imperial Palace & Marunouchi Central Tokyo Ginza Shiodome Akihabara & Kanda Ueno Asakusa Akasaka Roppongi Ebisu Shibuya Shinjuku Ikebukuro

201

EXCURSIONS Nikkō Hakone Kamakura Enoshima Izu-hantō

217 221 225 229 233 234

TRANSPORT

237

DIRECTORY

245

LANGUAGE

259

BEHIND THE SCENES

268

INDEX

273

204 205 205 206 207 207 208 210 211 211 211 213 214

WORLD TIME ZONE 283 MAP LEGEND

284

© Lonely Planet Publications

SAMURAI: THOSE WHO SERVE

HISTORY IT CAME FROM THE SWAMP!

LIVE BY THE SWORD, DIE BY THE SWORD

Few would have guessed it, but Edo was to play a central role in Japan’s life as a warrior state. The rise of the samurai was linked to how strong a hold the imperial court had over the nation. From the earliest days of the Yamato dynasty, it was the custom to relocate the capital following the death of an emperor (presumably to free the capital from the taint of death). However, this custom was altered in 710 with the establishment of Japan’s first permanent capital at Nara. By the end of the 8th century, the Buddhist clerical bureaucracy had become vast, threatening the authority of the imperial administration. The emperor responded by relocating the capital once again and establishing a new seat of imperial power at Heian-kyō (modern-day Kyoto). From that point on, Kyoto generally served as the capital until the Meiji Restoration in 1868, when Tokyo became the new chief city.

22

BACKGROUND HISTORY

BACKGROUND HISTORY

The monstrous metropolis that is Tokyo, population 12 million, has come a long way from its origins as a collection of shallows and tidal pools at the mouth of the Sumida-gawa (Sumida River). Fertility was the focus of its first permanent inhabitants and this fecund swampland edging the Kantō plain was perfect for incubating new life. They were a pottery-producing culture who settled here during the late Neolithic Jōmon period (Jōmon means ‘rope marks’ for the design on pottery fragments discovered from this time) around 10,000 BC. These early Tokyoites lived as fishers, hunters and food-gatherers, and likely benefited from the fauna-rich marshland that was left behind after what is now Tokyo Bay rose to cover most of the valley where Tokyo now sits. Some 4000 years later, during the Yayoi period (400 BC–AD 250), wet-rice farming techniques were introduced from Korea. Shintō – Japan’s native religion – also began to develop during this time. Shintō, similar to animism, involves the worship of gods who inhabit animals and objects in nature. By AD 300 Japan was already, more or less, a unified nation, with its cultural base in the Kansai area (around the present-day cities of Nara, Kyoto and Osaka), while the Kantō region remained a distant backwater. While the Roman Empire rose and declined, Edo (the old name for Tokyo) continued as a sleepy fishing village for another thousand years. Meanwhile, the proto-Japanese nation came under the control of the Yamato clan (forerunners of the current imperial family), who claimed a handy direct descent from the sun goddess Amaterasu and introduced the title of tennō (emperor) around the 5th century. This was called the Kofun period, named for the earthen mounds in which the nobility were interred. But the most important event in Japan’s early history was the arrival of Buddhism in the 6th century, from India via China and Korea. Buddhism introduced a highly evolved system of metaphysics, codes of law and the Chinese writing system, a conduit for the principles of Confucian statecraft.

The prime duty of a samurai, a member of the warrior class, was to give faithful service to his daimyō (feudal lord). In fact, the origin of the term ‘samurai’ is closely linked to a word meaning ‘to serve’. Over the centuries, the samurai established a code of conduct that came to be known as bushidō (the way of the warrior), drawn from Confucianism, Shintō and Buddhism. Confucianism required a samurai to show absolute loyalty to his lord. Towards the oppressed, a samurai was expected to show benevolence and exercise justice. Subterfuge was to be despised, as were all commercial and financial transactions. A real samurai had endless endurance and total self-control, spoke only the truth and displayed no emotion. Since his honour was his life, disgrace and shame were to be avoided above all else, and all insults were to be avenged. From Buddhism, the samurai learnt the lesson that life is impermanent – a handy reason to face death with serenity. Shintō provided the samurai with patriotic beliefs in the divine status both of the emperor and of Japan – the abode of the gods. Seppuku (ritual suicide), also known as hara-kiri, was a practice to which Japanese Buddhism conveniently turned a blind eye and was an accepted means of avoiding dishonour. Seppuku required the samurai to ritually disembowel himself, watched by an aide, who then drew his own sword and lopped off the samurai’s head. One reason for this ritual was the requirement that a samurai should never surrender but always go down fighting. Since surrender was considered a disgrace, prisoners received scant mercy. During WWII this attitude was reflected in the Japanese treatment of prisoners of war – still a source of bitter memories. In quiet moments, a samurai dressed simply but was easily recognisable by his triangular eboshi, a hat made from rigid black cloth. The samurai’s standard battle dress or armour (yoroi in Japanese, usually made of leather or maybe lacquered steel) consisted of a breastplate, a similar covering for his back, a steel helmet with a visor, and more body armour for his shoulders and lower body. Samurai weaponry – his pride and joy – included a bow and arrows (in a quiver), swords and a dagger; and he wasn’t complete without his trusty steed. Before entering the fray, a samurai was expected to be freshly washed and groomed. The classic samurai battle took the form of duelling between individuals rather than the clashing of massed armies. Not all samurai were capable of adhering to their code of conduct – samurai indulging in double-crossing or subterfuge, or displaying outright cowardice, were popular themes in Japanese theatre. Though the samurai are long gone, there are echoes of bushidō in the salaryman corporate warriors of today’s Japan. Under the once-prevalent lifetime employment system, employees were expected to show complete obedience to their company, and could not question its decisions if, for example, they were transferred to New York. The salaryman system has greatly changed in the past two decades with growth in part-time employees and corporate restructuring, but you can still see hordes of blue-suited warriors rushing to their duties every morning in train stations. Instead of swords, they wield business cards. Corporate honour is paramount, and suicide is still a common method of atoning for social disgrace (methods include jumping off a train platform, not seppuku). Next time you see a salaryman in his cups, spare a thought for these overworked drivers of the Japanese economy. Like the samurai of old, they are the bedrock of the social order.

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BACKG RO U N D

From Kyoto’s early days, a samurai class in the employ of the daimyō (feudal lords) emerged. The relationship was one of absolute service; samurai were sworn to do anything for the sake of their clan and lord, and were always prepared to die (see above). Much of Japan’s subsequent history revolved around bloody struggles for power among the daimyō while the emperor mostly watched impotently from the sidelines in Kyoto.

10,000 BC

AD 710

794

1185

Tokyo area inhabited by pottery-making people during late Neolithic Jōmon period. The Kantō region around Tokyo is among the most densely settled in this era.

Japan’s first permanent capital established at Nara, ending the practice of moving the capital following an emperor’s death. The city is modelled on Chang’an, capital of Tang dynasty China.

Imperial capital moved to Heian-kyō, renamed Kyoto in the 11th century. It is laid out in a gridlike pattern and in accordance with traditional Chinese geomancy principles.

First shōgunate established at Kamakura under Minamoto no Yoritomo after defeating the ruling Taira clan; the Minamoto and Hōjo clans held power until Emperor Go-Daigo wrested power from the Hōjo in 1333.

1457 Waka (31-syllable poem) poet Ōta Dōkan orders construction of first Edo Castle. Developed by shōgun Tokugawa Ieyasu in the 17th century, it became the largest fortress the world has ever seen.

1467 Ōnin civil war devastates Kyoto; aristocrats flee to Ōta Dōkan’s stronghold. The conflict begins the Sengoku Jidai, or Warring States period, which lasts to the early 17th century.

23

BATTLE FOR SUPREMACY

BOOMTOWN EDO

In securing a lasting peace nationwide and ruling from Edo, Tokugawa Ieyasu laid the foundation for Tokyo’s ascendancy as one of the world’s great cities. In 1603, the emperor appointed him shōgun (military administrator), and the Tokugawa family ruled from Edo Castle (Edo-jō), on the grounds of the current Imperial Palace. It built up into the largest fortress the world had ever seen, with elaborate rituals shaping the lives of its many courtiers, courtesans, samurai and attendants. Edo would also grow to become the world’s largest city, topping one million in the early 1700s and dwarfing much older London and Paris, as people from all over Japan flocked here to serve the growing military class. This was the result of a canny move by the Tokugawa that ensured their hegemony. They implemented the sankin kōtai system of alternate residence. This demanded that all daimyō

24

BACKGROUND HISTORY

BACKGROUND HISTORY

By the time Portuguese traders and missionaries arrived in 1543, feudal lords had carved Japan into a patchwork of fiefdoms. One of the most powerful daimyō, Oda Nobunaga of the Chūbu region, near present-day Nagoya, was quick to see how the Portuguese could support his ambitious plans. He viewed their Christianity as a potential weapon against the power of the Buddhist clergy and made ample use of the firearms they introduced. By the time he was assassinated in 1581, Oda had united much of central Japan. Toyotomi Hideyoshi took over the job of consolidating power, but looked less favourably on the growing Christian movement, subjecting it to systematic persecution. Toyotomi’s power was briefly contested by Tokugawa Ieyasu, son of a minor lord allied to Oda. After a brief struggle for power, Tokugawa agreed to a truce with Toyotomi; in return, Toyotomi granted him eight provinces in eastern Japan, including all of the Kantō region and Edo. While Toyotomi intended this to weaken Tokugawa by separating him from his ancestral homeland Chūbu, the upstart looked upon the gift as an opportunity to strengthen his power. He set about turning Edo into a real city. When Toyotomi Hideyoshi died in 1598, power passed to his son, Toyotomi Hideyori. However, Tokugawa Ieyasu had been busily scheming to secure the shōgunate for himself and soon went to war against those loyal to Hideyori. Tokugawa’s forces finally defeated Hideyori and his supporters at the legendary Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, moving him into a position of supreme power. He chose Edo as his permanent base and began two-and-a-half centuries of Tokugawa rule.

in Japan spend at least one year out of two in Edo. Their wives and children remained in Edo while the daimyō returned to their home provinces. This dislocating ransom policy made it difficult for ambitious daimyō to usurp the Tokugawas. The high costs of travelling back and forth with a large retinue eroded their financial power as well. Society was made rigidly hierarchical, comprising (in descending order of importance) the nobility, who had nominal power; the daimyō and their samurai; the farmers; and finally the artisans and merchants. Class dress, living quarters and even manner of speech were all strictly codified, and interclass movement was prohibited. When Tokugawa Ieyasu died in 1616, his ashes were briefly laid to rest in Chūbu before being moved to Nikkō (p224). Generations of Tokugawas made improvements to the vast Tōshō-gu Shrine dedicated to his memory there, transforming it into one of the grandest in all Japan. A smaller version stands in the large park Ueno-kōen (p72) in Tokyo. The castelike society imposed by Tokugawa rule divided Edo into a high city (Yamanote) and a low city (Shitamachi). The higher Yamanote (literally ‘hand of the mountains’) was home to the daimyō and their samurai, while the merchants, craftsmen and lower orders of Edo society were forced into the low-lying Shitamachi (literally ‘downtown’). One distinguishing feature of those days was the pleasure quarters, where samurai would come to indulge in activities forbidden in the Yamanote: wine, women and song and not necessarily in that order. The most legendary of these districts was the Yoshiwara, to the northeast of present-day Asakusa. Otherwise the typical residential neighbourhood of the Shitamachi featured squalid conditions, usually comprising flimsy wooden structures with earthen floors. These shantytowns were often swept by great conflagrations, which locals referred to as Edo-no-hana, or flowers of Edo; the expression’s bravura sums up the spirit of Shitamachi. Under great privation, Shitamachi subsequently produced a flourishing culture that thumbed its nose at social hardships and the strictures of the shōgunate, patronising both the kabuki theatre and sumō wrestling, and generally enjoying a joie de vivre that the dour lords of Edo castle

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The one interruption came when the warlord Minamoto no Yoritomo defeated the ruling Taira clan and established the first shōgunate in Kamakura (southwest of Tokyo) in 1185. Although the emperor remained the nominal ruler in Kyoto, the Minamoto clan ran a bakufu (military government) from Kamakura until 1333, when it was toppled by a rebellion and official power reverted to Kyoto. Near the mid-15th century, a waka (31-syllable poem) poet named Ōta Dōkan constructed the first castle at Edo on the site of an old fortress above Hibiya Cove. By 1467, when the disastrous Ōnin civil war was devastating the capital in Kyoto, many aristocrats and monks had fled the capital to become supplicants in Dōkan’s secure eastern hold. This was a foretaste of Edo’s explosive growth, but despite Dōkan’s contribution to establishing the city, his overlord ordered his assassination.

ALL ABOARD! Just as arteries and veins pump blood through the body, Tokyo’s trains are the circulatory system of this city. Japan’s first train line was built in 1872, connecting Tokyo with Yokohama; visitors can still see the original station near present-day Shimbashi Station. But even the most enthusiastic trainspotter of those days could not have imagined today’s rāmen (noodle) bowl of a train map, a tangle of lines now operated by the Japan Railways (JR) and 13 subway lines operated by not one but two municipal systems. Tokyo’s transit system also stands out for its network of privately operated commuter train lines, ferrying suburbanites into hubs along the JR Yamanote Line, which loops around the city centre. Some of these early trains were streetcars connecting neighbourhoods of this fast-growing city, others shuttled holidaymakers as far as Nikkō (p221) and Hakone (p225), some 100km away. Many private rail lines have namesake department stores. In 1929 Osaka-based Hankyū Railway became the pioneer in the train-line-as-real-estate-mogul concept, developing residential suburbs along its rail routes and connecting them to large retail complexes at its hubs. Tokyo rail operators followed suit, particularly after WWII; major hubs now include Shinjuku, Shibuya and Ikebukuro. Up to that point, department stores mainly catered to well-heeled consumers in chi-chi neighbourhoods such as Ginza and Nihombashi, but the train-affiliated stores were more democratic, allowing greater ease of access. That pattern continues today.

1600

1638

1853

1868

1872

1889

Tokugawa Ieyasu, victor in the Battle of Sekigahara, establishes his capital in Edo, forming a shōgunate and beginning two-and-a-half centuries of peace under Tokugawa rule, known as the Edo period.

Sakoku national isolation policy; Japan cuts off all contact with the outside world save limited trade with Dutch and Chinese off Nagasaki. The policy remains in place until the 1850s.

Black ships of the US navy arrive in Japan under the command of Commodore Matthew Perry, who succeeds in forcing Japan open to US trade at ports of Hakodate and Shimoda.

Meiji Restoration; Tokugawa shōgunate loyalists are defeated in civil war. The emperor casts off his figurehead role and assumes a position of supreme authority. Imperial residence moves to Edo, which is renamed Tokyo.

Japan’s first train line connects Shimbashi in Tokyo with Yokohama to the southwest, with services between Osaka and Kōbe launched two years later, and Osaka–Kyoto services in 1877.

Constitution of the Empire of Japan promulgated. Based on a Prussian model of constitutional monarchy, the emperor wielded great power but shared it with an elected Diet (parliament).

25

THE ‘EASTERN CAPITAL’ IS BORN

Tokyo: Exploring the City of the Shogun (2007), Sumiko Enbutsu – A veteran Tokyo walker presents a delightful series of strolls through historic areas. Tabloid Tokyo: 101 Tales of Sex, Crime and the Bizarre from Japan’s Wild Weeklies (2005), Mark Schreiber – This hilarious compilation of translated Japanese tabloid articles exposes the city’s sordid underbelly. The sequel is Tabloid Tokyo 2. Edo, the City that Became Tokyo (2003), Akira Naito – This beautifully illustrated history begins with primeval Edo, continues on to evil Edo, and concludes with the surrender of Edo Castle to the emperor. There are wonderful maps throughout. Tokyo Sights and Insights: Exploring the City’s Back Streets (1992), Ryosuke Kami – This paean to vanishing neighbourhoods presents vivid sketches of districts off the tourist path. Low City, High City (1983), Edward Seidensticker – Chronicles the decline of Edo between the time of the Meiji Restoration and the Great Kantō Earthquake. A follow-up to this book, Tokyo Rising, charts the capital’s postwar growing pains.

and its annexe in Nihombashi (1914) was called the grandest building east of the Suez Canal. However, if the Meiji Restoration sounded the death knell for old Edo, there were two more events to come that were to erase most traces of the old city.

A CATFISH JUMPS – THE GREAT KANTŌ EARTHQUAKE

Japanese have traditionally believed that a giant catfish living underground causes earthquakes when it stirs. At noon on 1 September 1923 the catfish really jumped – the Great Kantō Earthquake caused unimaginable devastation in Tokyo. More than the quake itself, it was the subsequent fires, lasting some 40 hours, that laid waste to the city, including some 300,000 houses. A quarter of the quake’s 142,000 fatalities occurred in one savage firestorm in a clothing depot. (There are some sombre reminders of the earthquake exhibited at the Kantō Earthquake Memorial Museum; see p128). In true Edo style, reconstruction began almost immediately. The spirit of this rebuilding is perhaps best summed up by author Edward Seidensticker (see Low City, High City boxed text; above): popular wisdom had it that any business which did not resume trading within three days of being burnt out did not have a future. Opportunities were lost in reconstructing the city – streets might have been widened and the capital transformed into something more of a showcase.

BACKGROUND HISTORY

BACKGROUND HISTORY

26

Edo’s transformation from a grand medieval city into a world-class capital required an outside nudge, or gaiatsu (external pressure). This came in the form of a fleet of black ships, under the command of US Navy Commodore Matthew Perry, that sailed into Edo-wan (now known as Tokyo Bay) in 1853. Perry’s expedition demanded, in the name of US President Millard Fillmore, that Japan open itself to foreign trade after centuries of isolation. Other Western powers were quick to follow in demanding the Japanese open treaty ports. The coming of Westerners heralded a far-reaching social revolution against which the antiquated Tokugawa regime was powerless. In 1867–68, faced with widespread antigovernment feeling and accusations that the regime had failed to prepare Japan for the threat of the West, the last Tokugawa shōgun resigned and power reverted to Emperor Meiji. In 1868 Meiji moved the seat of imperial power from Kyoto to Edo Castle, renaming the city Tokyo (Eastern Capital). This was known as the Meiji Restoration, and signified that power was restored to the emperor, and the imperial and political capitals were once again unified. The Meiji Restoration was not an entirely peaceful handover of power. In Edo, some 2000 Tokugawa loyalists put up a futile last-ditch resistance to the imperial forces in the brief Battle of Ueno. The struggle took place around the beautiful temple Kanei-ji (p72), which, along with Zōjō-ji (p98), was one of Edo’s two mortuary temples for the Tokugawa shōgunate. The word Meiji means ‘enlightenment’ and Japan’s new rulers pushed the nation into a crash course in industrialisation and militarisation. In 1872 the first railroad opened, connecting Tokyo with the new port of Yokohama, south along Tokyo Bay, and by 1889 the country had a Western-style constitution. In a remarkably short time, Japan achieved military victories over China (1894–95) and Russia (1904–05) and embarked on modern, Western-style empire-building, with the annexation of Taiwan (1895), then Korea (1910) and Micronesia (1914). Nationalists were also busy transforming Shintō into a jingoistic state religion. Seen as a corrupting foreign influence, Buddhism suffered badly – many valuable artefacts and temples were destroyed, and the common people were urged to place their faith in the pure religion of State Shintō. During the Meiji period, and the following Taishō period, changes that were taking place all over Japan could be seen most prominently in the country’s new capital city. Tokyo’s rapid industrialisation, uniting around the nascent zaibatsu (huge industrial and trading conglomerates), drew jobseekers from around Japan, causing the population to grow rapidly. In the 1880s electric lighting was introduced. Western-style brick buildings began to spring up in fashionable areas such as Ginza. In 1904 Mitsukoshi became Japan’s first Western-style department store,

TOKYO TOMES

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frowned upon. Today, the best glimpses we have into that time come from ukiyo-e (woodblock prints; see p35). Another feature of Edo that has left its mark on today’s Tokyo was the division of the city into machi (towns) according to profession. Even today it is possible to stumble across small enclaves that specialise in particular wares. Most famous are Jimbōchō, the bookshop area; Kappabashi, with its plastic food and kitchen supplies; and Akihabara, which now specialises in electronics and manga (comic books), but in the past has been a bicycle retailing area, an area specialising in domestic household goods and a freight yard.

THE BEGINNING OF SHŌWA & WWII

From the accession of Emperor Hirohito (Shōwa tennō to the Japanese) and the initiation of the Shōwa period in 1926, Japanese society was marked by a quickening tide of nationalist fervour. In 1931 the Japanese invaded Manchuria, and in 1937 embarked on full-scale hostilities with China. By 1940 a tripartite pact with Germany and Italy had been signed and a new order for all of Asia formulated: the Greater East Asia Co-Prosperity Sphere. On 7 December 1941 the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor, bringing the USA, Japan’s principal rival in the Asia–Pacific region, into the war.

1923

1926

1944–45

1947

1952

1955

Great Kantō Earthquake kills more than 140,000 and razes over half the city’s wooden structures. An estimated 300,000 houses are destroyed, but the city’s reconstruction plan is only partly realised due to money shortages.

Hirohito ascends the Chrysanthemum Throne to become the Shōwa emperor. Presiding over Japan’s military expansion across East Asia and atrocities committed by Japanese forces, he is spared trial by Allied forces after WWII.

US firebombs Tokyo and drops two atomic bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki; US occupation begins. The American overlords embark on a successful programme of demilitarisation and democratisation.

New constitution adopted, including Article 9 in which Japan renounces war and the possession of armed forces. Despite this, Self-Defense Forces are eventually built up into a formidable military arsenal.

US occupation ends; Japan enters a period of high economic growth. The Korean War provides a shot in the arm for Japanese manufacturers, who supply US forces.

Liberal Democratic Party founded; it goes on to hold a virtually uninterrupted monopoly on power into the 21st century despite recurring corruption scandals and deep-seated factionalism.

27

Since the end of WWII, right-wing and nationalist sentiments have generally taken a back seat to moderate political views or outright apathy. However, there remain pockets of right-wing sentiment. These are most visible to the visitor in the form of sinister black buses and vans, which ply the streets of big cities blaring patriotic Japanese songs (that unfortunately always sound like the TV theme songs for kids’ manga cartoons) at ear-splitting volume. These vehicles represent the propaganda arm of the uyoku – far-right political parties and organisations. When not playing music, speakers often deliver lengthy diatribes against Japanese politicians or a litany of nationalist sentiments. Japanese pedestrians studiously ignore black buses blaring 100 decibels of noise, and when regular citizens do pay them any notice at all, it is usually to dismiss them as cranks. There is, however, a dark side to the uyoku: it acts as a volunteer police force for right-wing and right-leaning politicians, effectively prohibiting criticism of the emperor. This is done by intimidating would-be critics with threats of violence, which are occasionally carried out.

THE POSTWAR MIRACLE

Tokyo’s phoenixlike rise from the ashes of WWII and its emergence as a major global city is something of a miracle. Once again, Tokyoites did not take the devastation as an opportunity to redesign their city (as did Nagoya, for example), but rebuilt where the old had once stood. During the US occupation in the early postwar years, Tokyo was something of a honky-tonk town. Now-respectable areas such as Yūrakuchō were the haunt of the so-called pan-pan girls (prostitutes), and areas such as Ikebukuro and Ueno had thriving black-market zones. The remains of Ueno’s black market can be seen in Ameyoko Arcade (p70), which is still a lively market. In 1947 Japan adopted its postwar constitution, with the now-famous Article 9, which barred the use of military force in settling international disputes and maintaining a military for warfare (although the nation does maintain a self-defence force). By 1951, with a boom in Japanese profits arising from the Korean War, Tokyo rebuilt rapidly, especially the central business district, and the subway began to take on its present form. The once-bombed-out city has never looked back from this miraculous economic growth. During the 1960s and ’70s, Tokyo reemerged as one of the centres of growing Asian nationalism (the first phase was in the 1910s and ’20s). Increasing numbers of Asian students came to Tokyo, taking home with them new ideas about Asia’s role in the postwar world.

28

CITY OF THE FUTURE

Tokyo has weathered a long hangover since the heady days of the bubble economy. The doldrums have finally given way to lacklustre growth and unemployment that flirts with record 5% highs, but the government maintains the economy is still on a recovery path. The declining birth rate and population pose major problems for Tokyo and Japan – the birth rate for the capital is below 1% (even lower than the national average of 1.24%), while Japan’s elderly continue to make up an ever-larger share of the population. No-one really knows how the system will manage to support the 30% of the population that is projected to be over the age of 65 in the next 25 years. The workforce is shrinking, but there are few signs that Japan is ready to embrace Western-style immigration, recently making all foreign visitors to the country subject to fingerprinting and facial photography upon entry as part of its security policy. The government may fear deception and fraud, but domestic headlines are rife with corporate malfeasance scandals, from revelations that buildings in Tokyo have been constructed with forged quake-resistance data to news that Japanese paper companies have been passing off unused paper as recycled material. Japan is also struggling with its international role, particularly the leeway allowed by its ‘Peace Constitution’; former Prime Minister Koizumi Junichirō’s decision to deploy SelfDefense Force (SDF) troops to aid allies in the war in Iraq was met with massive protests. The Defense Agency has been promoted to a fully fledged ministry and Japanese military cooperation with the US has escalated. One result was that the ruling Liberal Democratic Party (LDP) lost control of the upper house of parliament in 2007, allowing opposition Democrats to cancel an SDF antiterrorism refuelling mission in the Indian Ocean for several months until its resumption in 2008. Although Prime Minister Yasuo Fukuda managed a rare summit meeting with Chinese leaders, Japan’s international image has continued to suffer due to its ‘scientific’ whale-hunting programme and a perceived lack of repentance over its wartime atrocities. The government

1964

1968–69

1972

1989

1995

2007

Tokyo Olympic Games are held, marking Japan’s postwar reintegration into the international community and the first time the Games are hosted by a non-Western country.

Tokyo University students take over administrative buildings to protest the Vietnam War. No-one is allowed to graduate in the 1969 academic year and entrance examinations are cancelled.

Okinawa, captured and held by US forces in WWII, is returned to Japan. High concentration of US military bases on the islands has angered locals ever since.

Death of Emperor Hirohito; Heisei era begins as Hirohito’s son Akihito ascends the Chrysanthemum Throne; stock market decline begins, initiating a decade-long economic slump in Japan.

Doomsday cult Aum Shinrikyō releases sarin gas on the Tokyo subway, killing 12 and injuring more than 5000. Guru Shōkō Asahara is sentenced to death for Aumrelated crimes in 2004.

Ruling Liberal Democratic Party (LDP) loses majority in the House of Councillors to the opposition Democratic Party of Japan. Financial scandals and political gaffes by LDP members and a national pension accounting scandal are blamed.

BACKGROUND HISTORY

BACKGROUND HISTORY

Despite initial successes, the war was disastrous for Japan. On 18 April 1942 B-25 bombers carried out the first bombing and strafing raid on Tokyo, with 364 casualties. Much worse was to come. Incendiary bombing commenced in March 1944, notably on the nights of the 9th and 10th, when some two-fifths of the city, mainly in the Shitamachi area, went up in smoke and 70,000 to 80,000 lives were lost. The same raids destroyed Asakusa’s Sensō-ji (p85), and later raids destroyed Meiji-jingū (p109). By the time Emperor Hirohito made his famous capitulation address to the Japanese people on 15 August 1945, much of Tokyo had been decimated – sections of it were almost completely depopulated, like the charred remains of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, after they were devastated by atomic bombs. Food and daily necessities were scarce, the population was exhausted by the war effort and fears of marauding US military overlords were high.

One of Tokyo’s proudest moments came when it hosted the 1964 summer Olympics. In preparation the city embarked on a frenzy of construction unequalled in its history. Many Japanese see this time as a turning point in the nation’s history, the moment when Japan finally recovered from the devastation of WWII to emerge as a fully fledged member of the modern world economy. Construction and modernisation continued at a breakneck pace through the ’70s, with the interruption of two Middle East oil crises, to reach a peak in the late ’80s, when wildly inflated real-estate prices and stock speculation fuelled what is now known as the ‘bubble economy’. Based on the price paid for the most expensive real estate at the time, the land value of Tokyo exceeded that of the entire United States, and Japanese companies went on a purchasing spree of international icons including Pebble Beach Golf Course, the Rockefeller Center and Columbia Pictures movie studio. When the bubble began to burst in 1989 with the crash of the stock market, the economy went into a protracted slump that was to last more than 15 years. There were other, more disturbing, troubles in Japanese society. In March 1995 members of the Aum Shinrikyō doomsday cult released sarin nerve gas on crowded Tokyo subways, killing 12 and injuring more than 5000. This, together with the Kōbe earthquake of the same year, signalled the end of Japan’s feeling of omnipotence, born of the unlimited successes of the ’80s.

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THE UYOKU

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On 6 September 2006 Japan exhaled a long-held breath – news had just broken that a future emperor was born. Tipping the scales at 2.56kg, Prince Hisahito, son of Prince and Princess Akishino, was the first male child born into the moribund Imperial Family in more than four decades, averting a crisis of succession to the Chrysanthemum Throne. Japanese had been debating a change to the 1947 Imperial Household Law to allow females to ascend the throne since reigning Emperor Akihito’s eldest son, Crown Prince Naruhito, has had no male children. The amendment might have made his young daughter, Princess Aiko, the first reigning empress since Empress Go-Sakuramachi in the 18th century; the succession laws were modified in the 19th century so that only men could be emperor. Following Prince Hisahito’s birth, a government bill to change the 1947 law was dropped, and the debate, which even included proposals to have concubines for Imperial princes, was quietly shelved. Currently third in line for the throne, the baby prince will eventually face tremendous pressure from the arch-conservative Imperial Household Agency to produce a male heir and maintain the world’s oldest continuous hereditary monarchy. But if, like most men in the Imperial Family, he only has daughters or no children at all, it will be déjà vu all over again.

ARTS

Tokyo’s density has a sheer visual quality that sometimes makes it seem like a lurid anime or video-game backdrop. In its better moments it may resemble an ukiyo-e (wood-block CONTEMPORARY ART VENUES print), such as when snow blanches the roof of National Art Center, Tokyo (p99) Sensō-ji in Asakusa. That’s when it’s easy to Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan (National Museum see where the Japanese of old found inspiration of Modern Art; p74) in producing the wealth of traditional arts that Mori Art Museum (p95) Tokyo has helped foster. But the aesthetics of Museum of Contemporary Art, Tokyo (p127) the built environment can also take the form of something as simple as the adorable, expressive graphics in advertisements or the way a department store clerk wraps a package. If it’s Art with a capital A you’re after, Tokyo is experiencing a renaissance. You’ll find it in the large museums, in matchbox-sized galleries, decorating the streets, at train stations and convention halls, on hulking stages and in tiny underground theatres in quiet neighbourhoods, and, incredibly, a lot of it is really good.

CONTEMPORARY ARTS Visual Arts

Tokyo has one of the world’s most vibrant contemporary art scenes and dozens of galleries throughout the city at which to view it. The opening of the Mori Art Museum in 2003 was something of a watershed for the contemporary arts. More than a dozen excellent art galleries are consolidated in buildings such as Complex in Roppongi (p99) and near the eastern bank of the Sumida-gawa (p127). It’s fair to say that the city’s contemporary aesthetic heartbeat has never been heard more clearly. Artists to look for include Miyajima Tatsuo, whose sculptures and installation pieces often incorporate numeric LCD displays; Sugimoto Hiroshi, famous for his time-transcending photos (eg exposing the film to a movie screen while the entire movie runs); and Nara Yoshitomo

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Music

Tokyo has a huge, shape-shifting music scene supported by a local market of audiophiles willing to try almost anything. International artists make a point of swinging through on global tours, and the local scene surfaces every night in one of the city’s thousands of ‘live houses’. Western classical music (p178) is performed by several outstanding local orchestras, such as the NHK Symphony Orchestra and the Tokyo Philharmonic Orchestra, and by visiting ensembles. Opera (p178) too has come to stay. Notable companies include the Fujiwara Opera, which specialises in French and Italian operas, and the Nikkai Opera, which mounts performances of Mozart and Wagner. The jazz scene is enormous (see p186), as are the followings for rock, House, electronica and Latin jazz. Mainstream music is dominated by the commercial J-Pop. Some of the biggest acts are young aidoru (idol) singers who owe their popularity to cute looks and a flood of media appearances. The all-girl group Morning Musume has been the standard in recent years, keeping things fresh by regularly ‘graduating’ some of its dozen-or-so members and holding auditions for new ones. The boy-band equivalent is SMAP, which has prospered since 1991 with about half as many members. Other current top J-Pop artists include singer-songwriter Utada Hikaru, the Korean-born Boa, Hamasaki Ayumi and long-time favourite Southern All Stars. Japanese bands also follow Western music trends such as hip-hop and rap. Tokyo is famous for its cutting-edge club music scene. DJs here are as numerous as they come; some of the biggest names are DJ Cornelius, Ken Ishii and DJ Kentaro. Enka is a musical style popular among older generations but its nostalgic charm occasionally attracts younger audiences too. Its lyrics and emotions emphasise themes of longing and tears, and musically it’s usually languidly paced and in a musical scale that borrows from traditional Japanese music. Tokyo is also one of the only cities in Asia where you may have the luxury of seeing up-andcoming performers playing in intimate venues. See p186 for more on where to go to check out the wide variety of music on offer. And no discussion of the Tokyo music scene can be complete without a mention of karaoke. Karaoke started in Japan in 1971 and remains wildly popular, as a walk down just about any alley at night will evidence. Go with a group, and you’ll almost certainly be expected to perform; most karaoke bars and ‘karaoke boxes’ (private rooms with karaoke equipment) have at least a few English songs.

BACKGROUND ARTS

BACKGROUND ARTS

has turned to Japanese pop culture products such as anime (animated film) and manga as a foreign policy tool in the hopes that popular cartoon heroes will be better than bureaucrats at convincing people to embrace ‘cool Japan’. Little of this phases Tokyo, however. It has continued to build new subway lines and megacomplexes such as Tokyo Midtown, and has mounted a bid to host the Olympic Games in 2016. With that old Edo pluck, Tokyoites shrug off the looming demographic crisis and hope the Games can give their city a shot in the arm as it carves out a new role for itself as a centre of anime, manga, video games and other globally hot media.

and Murakami Takashi, both heavily influenced by manga (Japanese comics, p78). The signature style of Kusama Yayoi is motifs of dots and nets, which make their way onto hanging art, sculptures and even clothing. Ishiuchi Miyako appeared in the Japan pavilion at the 2005 Venice Biennale, with her collection Mother, exploring artefacts of her own mother’s turbulent life in penetrating photographs.

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CRISIS AVERTED – FOR NOW

Commercial Theatre

Commercial theatre in Tokyo encompasses classical and contemporary dramas and musicals, both home-grown and imported, staged by large entertainment companies and starring wellknown actors, singers and other celebrities. If you’re struck by a sudden hankering for a Royal Shakespeare Company production of Romeo and Juliet, or a Japanese-language performance of the Phantom of the Opera you might just be in luck. Popular but quirky, the all-female Takarazuka troupe offers a musical experience that is unlike any other. Founded in 1913, partly as an inversion of the all-male kabuki theatre and partly as a form of entertainment for a growing male middle-class with money to burn, Takarazuka combines traditional Japanese elements with Western musical styles. Interestingly, in light of its history, its most devoted admirers now comprise young women who swoon with romantic abandon over the troupe’s beautiful drag kings. Takarazuka adopted its present revue format in the late 1920s, and except for the WWII years – during which the troupe proved an ideal propaganda tool – has continued to perform musicals and revues set in exotic locations.

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Butō

Cinema

Japan has a vibrant, proud, critically acclaimed cinematic tradition. Renewed international attention since the mid-1990s has reinforced interest in domestic films, which account for an estimated 40% of box-office receipts – nearly double the level of most European countries. This includes not only artistically important works, but also films in the science- fiction, horror and ‘monster-stomps-Tokyo’ genres for which Japan is also known. The golden age of Japanese cinema began with Kurosawa Akira’s film Rashōmon, which won both the Golden Lion at the 1951 Venice International Film Festival and an Oscar for best foreign film. The increasing realism and high artistic standards of the period are evident in such milestone films as Tōkyō Monogatari (Tokyo Story; 1953), by the legendary Ōzu Yasujirō; Mizoguchi Kenji’s classics Ugetsu Monogatari (Tales of Ugetsu; 1953) and Saikaku Ichidai Onna (The Life of Oharu; 1952); and Kurosawa’s 1954 masterpiece Shichinin no Samurai (The Seven Samurai), which was later remade into the classic Western movie, The Magnificent Seven. The 1960s gave the world such landmarks as Ichikawa Kon’s Chushingura (47 Samurai; 1962, based on the Akō incident) and Kurosawa’s Yōjimbo (1961). Up against TV and, later, video, cinema attendance in Japan declined through the 1980s, yet Japanese filmmakers continued to set standards: Kurosawa garnered acclaim worldwide for Kagemusha (The Shadow Warrior; 1980), which shared the Palme d’Or at Cannes, and Ran (1985). Imamura Shōhei’s heartrending Narayama Bushiko (The Ballad of Narayama) won the Grand Prix at Cannes in 1983. Itami Jūzō became perhaps the most widely known Japanese director outside Japan after Kurosawa with such biting satires as Osōshiki (The Funeral; 1985), Tampopo (1986) and Marusa no Onna (A Taxing Woman; 1988). Ōshima Nagisa scored critical success with Senjo no Merry Christmas (Merry Christmas Mr Lawrence) in 1983. In the 1990s Japanese directors received top honours at two of the world’s most prestigious film festivals: Unagi (Eel; 1997), Imamura Shōhei’s black-humoured look at human nature’s dark side won the Palme d’Or in Cannes and ‘Beat’ Takeshi Kitano took the Golden Lion in

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Tokyo Story (Tōkyō Monogatari; 1953) – Ōzu Yasujirō’s story of an older couple who come to Tokyo to visit their children only to find themselves treated with disrespect and indifference. Godzilla (Gojira; 1954) – It’s become almost a cliché, but watch it again and you’ll find a powerful metaphor in this city that spent the first half of the 20th century being beaten down and getting right back up again. The Bad Sleep Well (Warui Yatsu Hodo Yoku Nemuru; 1960) – Kurosawa Akira’s first film after breaking from Toho studios centres on a protagonist who marries the boss’s daughter as part of an intricate plan to avenge his father’s death. Tokyo Pop (1988) – Fran Rubel Kuzui’s breezy comedy about a lonely American songstress who finds redemption, fame and love in the here-today-gone-tomorrow world of J-pop. Shall We Dance? (1997) – A bored salaryman risks it all to learn the low-brow art of ballroom dancing. Footage includes some wistful shots of Tokyo at night. Distance (2001) – A subtle meditation on togetherness and loneliness, Koreeda Hirokazu’s follow-up to After Life follows four people into the woods as they seek the truth about lovers and friends who belonged to a murderous cult. Though clearly an examination of the phenomena of Aum Shinrikyō (see p28) and the subway sarin attacks, this film is blissfully free of dogma. Lost in Translation (2003) – Tokyo takes on a muted gleam in Sofia Coppola’s Oscar-winner about two guests at the Park Hyatt, sharing a moment away from loveless marriages. Bill Murray is in finest deadpan form, and the movie made Scarlett Johansson a star. Tokyo Godfathers (2003) – Kon Satoshi’s animated film uses a group of homeless men to explore the city’s postbubble underside. They come across a baby and don’t quite know what’s hit them. Nobody Knows (Dare mo Shiranai; 2004) – Koreeda Hirokazu’s slow and depressing but somehow life-affirming tale of four children forced to fend for themselves after their heinous mother abandons them. Based on true events. Kamikaze Girls (Shimotsuma Monogatari; 2004) – One of the daffiest buddy movies ever made, and the only one we know that pairs a country girl obsessed with Lolita outfits from Tokyo boutiques with a biker chick who spits to punctuate her sentences. Written and directed by Tetsuya Nakashima. Train Main (Densha Otoko; 2005) – After a shy otaku (supergeek) falls for a woman he defended from a drunkard, he turns to online pals for help with his feelings of love. This hit from director Masanori Murakami helped put otaku and Akihabara culture on the map.

BACKGROUND ARTS

BACKGROUND ARTS

In many ways, butō (contemporary dance)is Japan’s most exciting dance form. It is also the newest, dating only from 1959, when Hijikata Tatsumi (1928–86) gave the first butō performance. Butō was born out of a rejection of the excessive formalisation that characterises traditional forms of Japanese dance and of an intention to return to the ancient roots of the Japanese soul. Butō performances are best likened to performance art rather than traditional dance. During a performance, one or more dancers use their naked or seminaked bodies to express the most elemental and intense human emotions. Nothing is forbidden in butō and performances often deal with taboo topics such as sexuality and death. For this reason, critics often describe butō as scandalous, and butō dancers delight in pushing the boundaries of what can be considered tasteful in artistic performance.

TOKYO ON FILM

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Underground Theatre

Theatre the world over spent the 1960s redefining itself, and it was no different in Tokyo. The shogekijō (small theatre) movement, also called angura (underground), has given Japan many of its leading playwrights, directors and actors. Like their counterparts in the West, these productions took place in any space available – in small theatres, tents, basements, open spaces and on street corners. Today’s shogekijō takes on realistic themes, such as modern Japanese history, war and environmental degradation. Socially and politically critical dramas (such as those by Kaneshita Tatsuo and Sakate Yōji), psychological dramas (eg by Iwamatsu Ryō, Suzue Toshirō and Hirata Oriza) and satirical portrayals of modern society (eg by Nagai Ai and Makino Nozomi) have come to the fore and even attracted attention overseas. Venues include the Suzunari Theatre outside the city centre in Shimokitazawa, and Die Pratze, near Kagurazaka Station in Tokyo. And there always seems to be at least one troupe performing English-language theatre. See p177 for listings.

Venice for Hana-bi (Fireworks; 1997), a tale of life and death, and the violence and honour that links them. The undisputed king of current Japanese cinema, ‘Beat’ Takeshi is a true renaissance man of the media; he stars in and directs his films, and is an author, poet and frequent TV personality. These days, a new generation of directors is emerging, it includes: Izuru Kumasaka, whose Asyl-Park and Love Hotel won Best First Feature at the 2008 Berlin Film Festival; Koreeda Hirokazu with Dare mo Shiranai (Nobody Knows; 2004), winner of the Best Actor prize at the Cannes Film Festival for its young star Yagira Yūya; and Kurosawa Kiyoshi with Cure. Naturally, the world’s blockbusters also screen widely in Tokyo. See p188 for cinemas.

Fiction

Most of Japan’s national literature since the Edo period has been penned by authors who have written about or spent most of their lives in Tokyo. From Natsume Soseki to Mishima Yukio to Murakami Haruki, the literature written in and about the metropolis has served as the playground of the national imagination. Not surprisingly, both of Japan’s Nobel Laureates, Kawabata Yasunari and Ōe Kenzaburo spent the bulk of their writing lives in Tokyo (Ōe eventually left to escape the Japanese press). And the trend continues as a new generation of Tokyo writers takes the stage. In April 2004 the Akutagawa Prize – one of the nation’s most prestigious – was awarded to the two youngest Japanese writers to have ever received it, both of them women: 19-year-old Kanehara Hitomi and Wataya Risa, aged 20. The previous youngest winners included Ōe Kenzaburo and current Tokyo governor Ishihara Shintarō, who were both 23 when they won.

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Poetry

While Japanese traditional poetry, such as the 17-syllable haiku or the 31-syllable waka, is most closely associated with the ancient capital of Kyoto, it has a history in Tokyo as well. Japan’s most famous poet of all time, Matsuo Bashō, led a literary society here and began his journey to write his renowned work Oku no Hosomichi on the banks of the Sumida-gawa. Today it’s not uncommon to see large busloads of retirees setting off on haiku composition trips, often to inspired locations such as the stops on Bashō’s journey through northern Japan. Haiku remains extremely popular and its five-seven-five syllable structure is also used in the media to construct ad slogans. Contemporary poetry in Tokyo is alive and well and read mostly by the dedicated. One exception to this trend is Tanikawa Shuntaro (Map of Days, Naked), whose inspired verse has earned him not only a loyal following, but interviews in fashion and pop culture magazines. Also of note is Shiraishi Kazuko (Let Those Who Appear), whose rowdy, lyrical poetry has earned her comparisons to American Beat poet, Allen Ginsberg.

TRADITIONAL ARTS

You don’t have to visit a museum to see old art forms in Tokyo. From kabuki-attired pitchmen in TV ads to lacquered mousepads to folding fans sensu (folding fans) emblazoned with corporate logos, traditional arts and crafts are everywhere in the capital, and are subject to continuous innovation.

Painting

From AD 794 to 1600, Japanese painting borrowed from Chinese and Western techniques and media, ultimately transforming these towards its own aesthetic end. By the beginning of the Edo period (1600–1868), which was marked by a wide range of painting styles attracting enthusiastic

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Wood-block Prints

Far from the Chinese-inspired landscapes and religious-themed paintings, ukiyo-e (literally ‘pictures of the floating world’; wood-block prints) were for the common people, used in advertising or in much the same way posters are used today. The subjects of these wood-block prints were images of everyday life, characters in kabuki (p36) plays and scenes from the ‘floating world’, a term derived from a Buddhist metaphor for life’s fleeting joys. Edo’s particular floating world revolved around pleasure districts such as the Yoshiwara. In this topsy-turvy kingdom, an inversion of the usual social hierarchies imposed by the Tokugawa shōgunate, money meant more than rank, actors and artists were the arbiters of style, and prostitutes elevated their art to such a level that their accomplishments matched those of the women of noble families. The vivid colours, novel composition and flowing lines of ukiyo-e caused great excitement when they finally arrived in the West; the French came to dub it ‘Japonisme’. Ukiyo-e was a key influence on impressionists and post-impressionists (eg Toulouse-Lautrec, Manet and Degas). Yet among the Japanese, the prints were hardly given more than passing consideration – millions were produced annually in Edo, often thrown away or used as wrapping paper for pottery. For many years, the Japanese continued to be perplexed by the keen interest foreigners took in this art form. The compact but exceptional Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Art Museum (p111) has rotating exhibitions, while the Edo-Tokyo Museum (p125) has a section describing ukiyo-e and how they were made.

BACKGROUND ARTS

BACKGROUND ARTS

I Am a Cat (1905–1906), Sōseki Natsume – Sōseki’s best known for Kokoro, but this merciless turn-of-the-century narrative, told from the point of view of a cat, is way more fun. Snow Country (1948), Kawabata Yasunari – Written in the years just before WWII, this novel by one of Japan’s two Nobel Laureates tells the tale of a Tokyo dilettante’s cruel, tragic affair with a mountain geisha. The Sailor Who Fell from Grace with the Sea (1963), and After the Banquet (1960), Mishima Yukio – If you’re looking for unsettling beauty, reach for the former. History buffs will want the latter tome, which was at the centre of a court case that became Japan’s first privacy lawsuit. A Personal Matter (1964), Kenzaburo Ōe – A 27-year-old school teacher’s child is born brain-damaged. His life claustrophobic, his marriage failing, he dreams of escaping to Africa while planning the murder of his son. Coin Locker Babies (1980), Murakami Ryu – A coming-of-age tale centred on the lives of Kiku and Hashi, two boys left to die in coin lockers by their mothers. Both survive. The latter part of the book follows Hashi through Toxictown, a futuristic danger zone. This is Murakami at his most poetic. Norwegian Wood (1987), Murakami Haruki – Set in the late ’60s against the backdrop of student protests, Norwegian Wood is both the portrait of a young artist (as recounted by a reminiscent narrator) and an ode to first loves. Murakami is perhaps Japan’s most celebrated novelist, and this is his most celebrated work. Kitchen (1988), Yoshimoto Banana – Yoshimoto gets a bad rap as a lightweight writer. It’s true, Kitchen relentlessly chronicles Tokyo’s fast-food menus and ’80’s pop culture, though underlying the superficial digressions are hints at a darker deeper world of death, loss and loneliness. Idoru (1997), William Gibson – This novel paints Tokyo’s dark postearthquake future, after the grim reconstruction made possible by ominous nanotechnology. Shinjuku looms large, as does megawatt Akihabara. Out (1998), Kirino Natsuo – A gritty thriller about downtrodden female employees of a bentō (boxed-lunch) factory who become a band of murderesses. Winner of Japan’s grand prize for crime fiction. Snakes and Earrings (2003), Hitomi Kanehara – This Akutagawa Prize–winner traces the downward spiral of a woman spellbound by a mysterious tattoo artist. Tokyo Year Zero (2007), David Peace – In devastated postwar Tokyo, a not-so-saintly police detective tracks a serial killer.

patronage, Japanese art had come completely into its own. The Kanō school, initiated more than a century before the beginning of the Edo period, continued to be in demand for its depiction of subjects connected with Confucianism, mythical Chinese creatures or scenes from nature. The Tosa school, which followed the yamato-e (Japanese world) style of painting (often used on scrolls during the Heian period from 794–1185), received commissions from nobility eager for scenes from ancient classics of Japanese literature. Finally, the Rimpa school (beginning from around 1600) absorbed the earlier styles of painting and progressed beyond conventions to produce a strikingly decorative and delicately shaded form of painting. The works produced by a trio of outstanding artists from this school – Tawaraya Sōtatsu, Hon’ami Kōetsu and Ogata Kōrin – rank among the finest from this period.

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TOKYO FICTION

Ceramics

Japan has one of the world’s great ceramic traditions, from early Jōmon earthenware to the humble aesthetic of the tea ceremony and brightly coloured vessels sold overseas for big prices. Tokyo is not a significant centre for ceramic making, but has some great venues to learn about ceramic styles and their appreciation. Various museums around town host ceramics exhibitions – Tokyo Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan (Tokyo National Museum; p73) is a particularly good example. Department-store art galleries are also good places to catch a show. The remarkable online gallery www.e-yakimono.net has all the information you need about ceramic styles and appreciation.

Folk Crafts

The mingei (folk crafts) movement was launched in the early 20th century as an attempt to counter desire for cheap mass-produced goods and promote the works of ordinary craftspeople instead. Central to the mingei philosophy is yo no bi (beauty through use), where everyday objects should bring pleasure through their aesthetics, touch and ease of use. Mingei movement leaders included potters Hamada Shoji (1894–1978) and Kawai Kanjirō (1890–1966), the eccentric genius potter and painter Munakata Shikō (1903–75), Serizawa Keisuke (1895–1984) for his amazing textiles and the British-born potter Bernard Leach (1887–1979). To see some mingei works, visit the Crafts Gallery (p51) of Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan (National Museum of Modern Art).

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Tea Ceremony



Nō originated from the combination of indigenous Shintō-related dance and mime traditions, and dance forms that originated elsewhere in Asia, and it really came to the fore in Kyoto between 1350 and 1450. Rather than a drama in the usual sense, a nō (dance-drama) seeks to express a poetic moment by symbolic and almost abstract means: glorious movements, grand and exaggerated costumes and hairstyles, sonorous chorus and music, and subtle expression. Actors frequently wear masks while they perform before a spare, unchanging set, which features a painting of a large pine tree. Most nō plays centre around two principal characters: the shite, who is sometimes a living person but more often a demon or a ghost whose soul cannot rest; and the waki, who leads the main character towards the play’s climactic moment. The elegant language used is that of the court of the 14th century. Some visitors find nō rapturous and captivating; others (including many Japanese) find its subtlety all too subtle. If you are going to take in a nō performance, familiarise yourself with the story and characters beforehand. If all else fails, the intermissions of nō performances are punctuated by kyōgen (short, lively comic farces). For performance information, see p176.

Kabuki

If nō has a history of catering to the elites, with themes of the afterlife and classical Japanese legend, kabuki originated as art for the common people, with dialogue, lively music, breathtaking costumes, an absence of masks, casts of dozens and stagecraft that was – and remains – unique in the world of theatre. Although kabuki is most closely associated with Edo, it began in Kyoto around 1600 when a charismatic shrine priestess called Okuni and her troupe started entertaining crowds with a new type of dance people dubbed ‘kabuki’, a slang expression that meant ‘cool’ or ‘in vogue’. Okuni’s dancers were not above prostituting their talents, and when fights for the ladies’ affections became a bit too frequent, order-obsessed Tokugawa officials declared the entertainment

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BACKGROUND ARTS

BACKGROUND ARTS

First things first: the tea ceremony is not about drinking tea (well, only a little). As much a philosophy as an art, sadō (the way of tea), combines a host of related arts and crafts: ceramics, kimono, calligraphy, ikebana, food, traditional architecture and garden design. Originally the pastime of samurai and Zen priests, sadō placed great emphasis on the aesthetic qualities of simplicity and naturalness, which together with humility create a spirit called wabi-sabi. Tea-master Sen no Rikyū codified the practice in the Momoyama period. Today a proper tea ceremony takes place in a tea room of 4.5 tatami mats. Seasonal ikebana and scroll paintings, the selection of ceramics and utensils used in the preparation and serving of the tea, the sweets accompanying the tea, and the design of the adjoining garden should all unite to create an ‘only-in-this-moment’ experience. Opportunities to participate in a full tea ceremony are exceedingly rare anywhere in Japan; if you are invited, accept (but not so eagerly as to show immodesty). Otherwise, many places around town offer the same sort of whisked green tea (matcha) with a sweet in far less formal settings. The teahouse at Hama Rikyū Onshi-teien (p66) is particularly lovely, located in the centre of a pond. Inquire at shrines, temples and smaller museums for other options.

a threat to public morality. Women’s kabuki was banned, and troupes of adolescent men took over the female roles, a development that only fed the flames of samurai ardour. Finally, in 1653, the authorities mandated that only TRADITIONAL ART VENUES adult men with shorn forelocks could perform kabuki, which gave rise to one of kabuki’s Bijutsukan Kōgeikan (Crafts Gallery; p51) most fascinating and artistic elements, the Musée Tomo (p99) onnagata (an actor who specialises in portrayTokyo Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan (Tokyo National ing women). Museum; p73) Over several centuries, kabuki has develUkiyo-e Ota Memorial Art Museum (p111) oped a repertoire of popular themes, such as famous historical accounts and stories of love-suicide, while also borrowing copiously from nō (opposite), kyōgen and bunraku (below). Many kabuki plays border on melodrama, while others vary from stories of bravery to elaborate dance pieces. Unlike Western theatre, kabuki is actor-centred. Kabuki actors are born to the art form – the leading families of modern kabuki go back many generations – and training begins in childhood. Sons often follow their fathers into the yago (kabuki acting house) to train in order to perpetuate an ancestor’s name on stage. Thus, the generations of certain families (eg Bando and Ichikawa) run into the double digits. The Japanese audience takes great interest in watching how different generations of one family perform the same part. Actors today enjoy great social prestige, and their activities on and off the stage attract as much interest as those of film and TV stars. Ingenious features of kabuki include the revolving stage (a kabuki invention), the hanamichi (a raised walkway connecting the stage to the back of the theatre, which is used for dramatic entrances and exits), koken (on-stage assistants) and hikinuki (on-stage costume changes). Another unique aspect of kabuki is the kakegoe, enthusiastic fans who shout out the name of the yago (home studio) of their favourite actors at pivotal moments such as well-known lines of dialogue or poses called mie. Actors note they miss this reinforcement when performing overseas (but don’t try it yourself!). See Kabuki-za (p176 and opposite) for more details.

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Ikebana

Key differences between ikebana (flower arranging) and western forms of flower arranging are the illusion of space, the interplay between the flowers and the vessels or baskets used to display them, and the sense of balance created when a flower is placed just so. The popularity of ikebana is evident in the eye-pleasing creations in the city’s shop windows and the tokonoma (sacred alcoves) of its private residences. Bamboo baskets, remarkable for their complexity and delicacy, are popular for use in ikebana. See p196 for information about ikebana classes.

Puppet Theatre

Japan’s traditional puppet theatre developed at the same time as kabuki, when the shamisen (a three-stringed lute), imported from Okinawa, was combined with traditional puppetry techniques and jōruri (narrative chanting). Bunraku, as it came to be known in the 19th century, addresses many of the same themes as kabuki, and in fact many of the most famous plays in the kabuki repertoire were originally written for the puppet theatre. Bunraku involves large puppets – nearly two-thirds life size – manipulated by up to three black-robed puppeteers. The puppeteers do not speak; a seated narrator tells the story and provides the voices of the characters, expressing their feelings with smiles, weeping and starts of surprise and fear. Although bunraku is most closely associated with Osaka, the best place to see it in Tokyo is the New National Theatre (Shin Kokuritsu Gekijō; p178).

Rakugo

A traditional Japanese style of comic monologue, rakugo (literally, ‘dropped word’) dates back to the Edo period (1600–1868). The performer, usually in kimono, sits on a square cushion on a stage. Props are limited to a fan and hand towel. The monologue begins with a makura (prologue), which is followed by the story itself and, finally, the ochi (punch line, or ‘drop’, which is another pronunciation of the Chinese character for raku in rakugo). Many of the monologues in the traditional rakugo repertoire date back to the Edo and Meiji periods, and while well known, reflect a social milieu unknown to modern listeners. Accordingly, many practitioners today also write new monologues addressing issues relevant to contemporary life.

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part heaving neon anarchy. Disasters and lax planning laws have obliterated most heritage buildings and modern ones are scrapped and rebuilt every 20 years or so, giving the cityscape an inspired heterogeneous character similar to an immense Escher print. Unlike Kyoto, laid out under grid-based Chinese geomancy principles, the city of Tokyo evolved concentrically around Edo Castle, and its medieval design has a strong labyrinthine dimension; several excellent English-language books explore these themes (p27). The resulting cityscape is a fantastic mishmash of impermanent structures grafted onto ancient patterns, so old and new are always right before your eyes.

FOREIGN INFLUENCES

EARLY STYLE ICONS

The best known of Japan’s 20th-century builders was Tange Kenzō (1913–2005). The mixing of Le Corbusier and traditional Japanese forms can be seen in Tange’s buildings, including the National Gymnasium (1964; p108) in Yoyogi-kōen, Hanae Mori Building (p112) and Sōgetsu Kaikan (1977; p93). His skyscraping Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices (1991; p116) was modelled after the great European cathedrals – look up from the plaza below and see if it doesn’t remind you of Notre Dame in Paris. Also look out for the Fuji TV Headquarters (1996; p132) in Odaiba; its latticelike frame suspends a giant orb that looms like the Death Star over Tokyo Bay. In the 1960s architects such as Shinohara Kazuo, Kurokawa Kisho, Maki Fumihiko and Kikutake Kiyonori began a movement known as Metabolism, which promoted flexible spaces and functions at the expense of fixed forms in building. Kurokawa’s Nakagin Capsule Tower (Map p65; 8-16-10 Ginza, Chūō-ku; bŌedo Line to Tsukijishijō) is a seminal work, designed as pods which could be removed whole from a central core and replaced elsewhere. His last great work, the National Art Center in Roppongi (2006), weaves undulating vertical forms into a strikingly latticed, organic structure.

TEMPLE OR SHRINE? The quickest way to distinguish a Buddhist temple from a Shintō shrine is to examine the entrance. The main entrance of a shrine is customarily a torii (Shintō shrine gate), usually composed of two upright pillars, joined at the top by two horizontal crossbars, the upper of which is normally slightly curved. Torii are often painted a bright vermilion, though some are left as bare wood. In contrast, the mon (main entrance gate) of a temple is often a much more substantial affair, constructed of several pillars or casements, joined at the top by a multitiered roof. Temple gates often contain guardian figures, usually Niō (deva kings). Keep in mind, though, that shrines and temples sometimes share the same precincts, and it is not always easy to tell where one begins and the other ends.

38

NEXT GENERATION BUILDERS

CONTEMPORARY BUILDINGS Spiral Building (1985; p113) Clean lines and a user-friendly interior have made this design by Maki Fumihiko one of Aoyama’s best-loved buildings. Asahi Flame (1989; Map p86) Famously capped by a representation of a golden flame come to be known as the ‘golden turd’, Philippe Starck’s late Bubble-era design is one of Tokyo’s most recognisable modern structures. Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices (1991; p116) Tange Kenzo’s new city hall has both heft and airiness; great, free observatories mean it’s popular too. Edo-Tokyo Museum (1992; p125) Architect Kikutane seems to have thumbed his nose at time in designing a history museum that so clearly represents a vision of the future. Wonderful Star Wars feel. Fuji Television Japan Broadcast Center (1994; p132) The signature building of Odaiba, and well worthy of the title. Museum of Contemporary Art, Tokyo (1995; p127) Yanagisawa Takahiko’s wild design feels like an experiment in outrageous geometry. Steel and concrete blend harmoniously into the surrounding urban park. Tokyo International Forum (1996; p52) This wonder of glass stands tall in Ginza. Prada Aoyama Building (2003; p113) Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron’s creation is a marvel of white-on-white, encased in a crystalline honeycomb. Roppongi Hills (2003; p94) Jon Jerde created a phenomenon of East-meets-West, ancient-meetsfuture and stark beauty-meets-crass-commercialism. National Art Center, Tokyo (2006; p99) Kisho Kurokawa’s last great work is an undulating meshwork embracing seven large exhibition halls unsupported by columns.

BACKGROUND ARCHITECTURE

BACKGROUND ARCHITECTURE

Until the end of the Edo period (1600–1868), the city’s houses and shops were almost entirely constructed of wood, paper and tile, and early photos show a remarkable visual harmony in the old skyline. Japan first opened its doors to Western architecture with the Meiji Restoration. Japanese architects immediately responded to these new influences, but some 20 years later, a nationalistic push against the influence of the West saw a resurgence in the popularity of traditional Japanese building styles. This ambivalence towards Western architecture continued until after WWI, when foreign architects, such as Frank Lloyd Wright came to build the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo (since demolished for safety reasons, although the façade can be seen at Meiji Mura, a culture-history park near Nagoya, two hours from Tokyo on the bullet train). Wright introduced the International Style, characterised by sleek lines, cubic forms and materials such as glass, steel and brick. Other pre-WWII monoliths still stand in Marunouchi and Yūrakuchō opposite the east side of Hibiya Park; American bombers spared them and they were used for postwar command facilities. After WWII the aggressively sculptural stone and concrete work of French architect Le Corbusier exerted strong influence on Japanese architects, and by the mid-1960s Japanese architects were beginning to attract attention on the world stage for their unique style.

Shinohara finally came to design in a style he called Modern Next, incorporating both modern and postmodern design ideas combined with Japanese influences. This style can be seen in his Centennial Hall (1987) at the Tokyo Institute of Technology, an elegant and uplifting synthesis of clashing forms in shiny metal cladding. Maki, the master of minimalism, pursued design in a modernist style while still emphasising elements of nature – such as the roof of his Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium (1990; p197), which takes on the form of a sleek metal insect. Another Maki design, the Spiral Building (1985; p113) is a favourite with Tokyo residents for its user-friendly design, gallery space, café and shops. Isozaki Arata, who originally worked under Tange, also promoted the Metabolist style before becoming interested in geometry and postmodernism. His work includes the Cultural Centre (1990) in Mito, about an hour from Tokyo, which contains a striking geometric, snakelike tower clad in different metals, and the Museum of Contemporary Art in Los Angeles. Kikutake, meanwhile, went on to design the Edo-Tokyo Museum (1992; p125). This enormous structure, encompasses almost 50,000 sq metres of built space and reaches 62.2m (the height of Edo Castle) at its peak. Another Tokyo architect to break onto the international scene in recent years is Taniguchi Yoshio. He had some important commissions in Japan – including the Gallery of Hōryū-ji Treasures (p74) at Tokyo Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan (Tokyo National Museum) – but his first overseas project was as big as they get: the 2004 renovation and expansion of the Museum of Modern Art in New York.

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ARCHITECTURE Tokyo’s awesome built environment looks part Legoland, part sci-fi video-game backdrop,

In the 1980s a second generation of Japanese architects began to gain recognition within the international architecture scene, including Ito Toyo, Hasegawa Itsuko and Andō Tadao. This younger group has continued to explore both modernism and postmodernism, while incorporating the renewed interest in Japan’s architectural heritage. One of Ito’s most striking recent designs, built in 2004, TOD’s Omote-sandō Building (Map p110; 5-1-15 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku), looks as if it was wrapped in surgical tape. Andō’s architecture utilises materials such as concrete to create strong geometric patterns that have so regularly appeared in Japan’s traditional architecture. Two of his landmarks are around Omote-sandō: Collezione (6-1-3 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku) and Omote-sandō Hills (Map p110; 4-12 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku). See also p112. Across the street from Omote-sandō Hills is the new Christian Dior store (5-9-11 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku) by a young protégée of Ito’s, Sejima Kazuyo, together with her partner Nishizawa Ryūe in the firm SANAA. They and others like them are quietly becoming the next generation of great Japanese architects; projects include museums in Spain, in New York and Toledo, Ohio, USA.

39

in the world and an ongoing commitment to recycling programmes continue to make Tokyo one of Asia’s most environmentally viable supercities. Adding to the liveability of the city are the numerous parks that dot the landscape. There are thousands ranging from pocket parks to riverside promenades and sprawling affairs dating back to samurai times, frequented year-round as the city’s mild climate makes them accessible and the marked changes in seasons make them appealing.

THE LAND

GREEN TOKYO

Tokyo has an excellent recycling system duly enforced by garbage collection services. In apartments, homes and businesses, all garbage must be separated into burnable, nonburnable and recyclable bags. Garbage that is not appropriately bundled is simply not picked up. Foreign visitors are often surprised at the lack of garbage bins in public places. Eating while walking in Japan is almost never done, except at fairs or the occasional ice-cream cone. Otherwise, the rule is to hold on to your rubbish (trash) until you get home. Under duress, train stations and convenience stores usually have bins, typically separated into those for paper (sometimes newspapers and magazines), cans, bottles, and other rubbish, with handy pictures. Overall awareness of environmental problems is mixed in resource-poor Japan. While some Japanese manufacturers lead the pack when it comes to products that save energy (Toyota’s Prius was the first mass-produced gasoline-electric hybrid vehicle), others are ridiculously wasteful when it comes to packaging – it’s common to find, say, a bag of marshmallows or cookies with each item sealed individually in plastic. Meanwhile, climate change has forced large cities such as Tokyo to institute public campaigns to lower surface temperatures through measures such as installing rooftop gardens. Laws passed in 2002 require all new and reconstructed buildings to include a roof garden. The measures were adopted to combat Tokyo’s infernal summer heat – temperatures have risen 3°C in the last hundred years – and also to beautify its concrete expanse. Another strategy is keeping air-conditioner use to a minimum by dressing down in summer – the government’s popular Cool Biz fashion campaign has seen stuffy bureaucrats, politicians and businessmen renounce their suits and ties in the sweltering months for open-neck shortsleeve shirts. The Warm Biz campaign encourages them to dress more warmly to save on heating costs.

40

Tokyo has looser building restrictions than many giant cities, and this is evident in its chaotic, ugly sprawl. Japan, where buildings are regarded as disposable commodities and usually junked after 20 years, has long been criticised for its failure to protect historic structures from the wrecking ball – landowners have inordinate power to decide what kind of buildings will go up on their property, often only a tiny slice of land. Tokyo’s neglect to limit businesses to certain zones began after WWII, when reconstruction was paramount. But in 2006 the Tokyo Metropolitan Government finally moved to protect the skyline surrounding three early-20th-century buildings – the Diet, the State Guest House and the Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery. It was probably too little too late, but the declining birth rate means that more space will open up and the ordinance may serve as a precedent for better planning and preservation. Tokyo is also encouraging the renovation of decrepit office buildings and boosting train services to reduce congestion. In 2008 it will launch yet another subway line, the Fukutoshin Line running between Ikebukuro and Shibuya.

GOVERNMENT & POLITICS

Based in Shinjuku, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government is the bureaucracy running the metropolis, which has the 127-member Metropolitan Assembly as its legislature and a governor. However, Tokyo’s 23 inner wards, or ku, have autonomous local governments with their own elected assemblies and mayors. Within Tokyo and surrounding the 23 wards are 26 cities, five towns and eight villages, all of which have their own assemblies. Local politics in Tokyo is very much overshadowed by national politics because the Japanese parliament, the Diet, is located here too. It’s divided into two houses: the lower, House of Representatives, and the upper, House of Councillors. The party that controls the majority of seats is the ruling party and has the right to appoint the prime minister, who appoints a cabinet. In theory, the Diet is a multiparty governing body; in practice, it is controlled by the conservative Liberal Democratic Party (LDP), which since its formation in 1955 has held sway with the exception of a few years in the mid-1990s. See p91 for information about tours of the National Diet.

BACKGROUND GOVERNMENT & POLITICS

BACKGROUND ENVIRONMENT & PLANNING

Tokyo is famously earthquake prone because it lies at the junction of the Eurasian, Pacific and Philippine tectonic plates. To compound the problem, much of the city and many crowded residential areas are built on loosely consolidated landfill, which could theoretically mix with underground water during a big tremor, causing portions of the city to collapse. On 17 January 1995 the city of Kōbe (about 600km from Tokyo) was devastated by an earthquake measuring 7.2 on the Richter scale, and it left Tokyoites wondering ‘what’s in store for us?’ Although imperceptible earthquakes happen nearly every day in Japan, the last one to give Tokyo a major shakedown was the 7.9-magnitude 1923 Great Kantō Earthquake (p27). Thankfully, Tokyo today is not the city it was in 1923. Its architects have been leaders in designing buildings to withstand earthquakes; some skyscrapers are on rollers or casters, others are reinforced at intervals. Yet the prospect of another major quake remains a grim one, and the devastation in Kōbe served as a reminder that no amount of earthquake preparation is too much. Meanwhile, more and more skyscrapers are going up in Tokyo due to relaxed building codes. The government’s Meteorological Agency in 2007 launched a quake warning system that broadcasts alarms 10 to 20 seconds before strong shocks are expected to hit an area based on preliminary vertical tremors. So far, its prediction rate has had mixed success. To learn about earthquake safety, visit the Ikebukuro Bōsai-kan (p123).

URBAN PLANNING & DEVELOPMENT

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ENVIRONMENT & PLANNING Comprehensive pollution laws (introduced in 1967), one of the best public-transport systems

ECONOMY

Although it looked as if Japan was going to take over the world economically through the 1980s, by the 1990s Japan’s economy was in a certifiable recession and remained so until very recently. Unemployment hovered around 5% (high by national standards), homelessness rose (visible in major encampments in districts such as Ueno and Shinjuku), corporations approached bankruptcy and bank loans turned into bad debts. The result: deflation, increased public debt and

WHAT’S IN A KEIRETSU? Businesspeople from abroad who come to work in Tokyo are often mystified by the structure of companies and interpersonal relationships. Business, they quickly learn, is never just business, but depends on a complex set of social relationships and corporate bonds that can never be accessed in a few meetings but must be built over years. At the centre of this system, and of the economy, are keiretsu, alliances of businesses based on cross-shareholding (aka business cartels). This configuration, with a bank at its core, links a number of companies together. Each keiretsu, however, has only one enterprise in each industry, preventing competition within the group. Although for years foreign companies, especially those from the USA, whinged about the exclusivity and seeming impracticality of these tight-knit alliances, they have recently begun to adopt the model themselves. In Japan, keiretsu are often viewed as safety zones for lifetime employment, with employees being shifted horizontally from one enterprise to another as components of the group become less fiscally viable. But the bad loan crises of the 1990s hit keiretsu banks hard, forcing some to merge with rivals. The conglomerates remain a force in Japanese business, but they are weakening as the prospect of lifetime employment continues to evaporate and surviving globalised competition becomes increasingly paramount.

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growing concern over how to support a greying populace (Japan has one of the world’s oldest populations, with life expectancies over 77 years for men and 85 for women). However, 2005 marked the beginning of a turnaround, which appears, finally, to have traction – land values in the city rose for the first time since 1991, and the Nikkei index is once again climbing high. Some smart Tokyoites used the bubble to regenerate. People under 40 began to reject the stability of lifetime employment in favour of more compelling, often more flexible, independent jobs. The emblem of this movement was Horie Takafumi, who in 1995 dropped out of Tokyo University (Japan’s most prestigious) at the age of 23 to found a consulting company that eventually morphed into Livedoor, one of Japan’s leading internet services and DVDrental empires. Horie’s showy personal trappings – fast cars, T-shirts instead of suits, brash corporate takeover bids and being a general media hound – infuriated the old-line corporate world. They also landed him in a book-cooking scandal that has periodically splashed across the headlines in recent times.

MEDIA

BACKGROUND

BACKGROUND MEDIA

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Tokyo is Japan’s media capital. Terebi (TV) networks based here include NHK (the national broadcaster), Fuji TV, Nippon TV, TBS and TV Asahi; their headquarters are destinaNEWS SITES tions for Japanese visitors. Breakfast broadJapan Times (www.japantimes.co.jp) casts vary from sober reporting of world news Mainichi Daily News (http://mdn.mainichi.jp) to chipper chatter about the latest pop-star Nikkei Net (www.nni.nikkei.co.jp) gossip. Daytime TV focuses on cooking and Kyodo News (http://home.kyodo.co.jp) chat shows for housewives, and late-afternoon Asahi Shimbun (www.asahi.com/english) anime (p78) for kids. Infotainment, variety and quiz shows are popular night-time fare. Programming from overseas is typically dubbed, but many Japanese TVs have a ‘bilingual’ button for watching shows in their original language. Japanese are voracious readers, and the country’s newspapers have the world’s highest circulation rate. Major shimbun (newspapers) include the liberal Asahi Shimbun, the conservative financial daily Nihon Keizai Shimbun (aka Nikkei) and the more populist Mainichi Shimbun, right-wing Sankei Shimbun and Yomiuri Shimbun, which boasts the world’s largest circulation. Sports newspapers are targeted at male readers (often with racy photos to match), and the lurid shūkanshi (weekly tabloids) compete intensely for the most sensational stories – you’ll see them advertised on trains citywide. See p251 for English-language publications. The quality of Japanese journalism depends heavily on the news provider. A typical government corruption scandal might first surface as a scoop in a more aggressive weekly tabloid, be picked up by TV variety shows, then appear in mainstream newspapers before finally making headlines on conservative NHK. The public broadcaster’s coverage of politics ranges from timid to reverential, mirroring that of putatively independent press agencies such as Kyodo News. In all media, however, granting anonymity to sources is extraordinarily common; even eyewitnesses to traffic accidents will have their faces blurred or voices distorted in a TV news report. Though there is a high degree of press freedom in Japan, social mores and systems such as exclusionary press clubs mean mainstream media are generally better at roles such as reporting breaking news than investigative journalism and criticism. Freelance journalists and independent media struggle against company-centred thinking but have small, dedicated readerships. Despite their traditional love of newspapers and NHK, Japanese are increasingly relying on the internet and mobile phones for news and other information. Japanese online forum 2channel (http://2ch.net) can log more than three million posts in a single day, covering everything from political scandals to suicide notes and hate speeches, and is the largest site of its kind on the net; its popularity is gaining on traditional media.

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N E I G H BO U R H O O DS

Imperial Palace (p50) – The Imperial Palace remains the home of the Japanese imperial family. Meiji-jingū (p109) – Easily the most beautiful and peaceful spot in Tokyo. Takeshita-dōri (p109) – The undisputed teen fashion capital of Japan. Runs through the heart of Harajuku. Shibuya Crossing (p105) – One of the largest intersections in the world, Shibuya Crossing overwhelms. Sensō-ji (p85) – The most sacred spot in Tokyo. Roppongi Hills (p94) – This complex presents the new face of stylistic Tokyo. Akihabara Electric Town (p67) – An entire neighbourhood dedicated to geek culture. Tsukiji Central Fish Market (p64) – The world’s largest fish market is simply not to be missed. La Qua Spa (p58) – The perfect place to heal your body and recover from jet lag. Ameyoko (p70) – Catch a glimpse of the old Shitamachi at this bustling shopping street full of open-air markets. What’s your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/tokyo

2 km 1 mile

Tokyo Bay

N E I G H BO U R H O O DS

Ariake

Tokyo Bay

Shinagawa-ku

Minato-ku

Kami±saki

Meguro-ku

Mita

Ebisu NakaMeguro

HirŸ

EBISU, DAIKANYAMA & MEGURO (p100)

Daikanyama

Meguro ShimoMeguro

ROPPONGI (p94)

Higashi Azabu MaruyamachŸ SakuragaokachŸ

Shibuya DŸgenzaka

UdagawachŸ

KitaAoyama Jinnan

SHIBUYA (p105) KamiyamachŸ

Jing¥mae

Shibuyaku

Harajuku

Sendagaya

HARAJUKU & AOYAMA (p109)

MinamiAoyama

NishiAzabu

MotoAzabu

Roppongi

Azabudai

Roppongi Hills

Shiba Daimon

TSUKIJI & SHIODOME (p64)

Shiodome

Shimbashi

Aomi

KŸtŸ-ku

ODAIBA (p130)

Minato-ku Tsukiji

HatchŸbori

GINZA (p61) Akasaka Toranomon UchisaiwaichŸ

Ginza

AKASAKA Kasumigaseki (p91)

KyŸbashi

Marunouchi

Chiyodaku NagatachŸ

HirakawachŸ

IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI (p50) Yaesu

Nihombashi Yoyogi

ShinjukunichŸme

Shinjuku

Shinjuku-ku

Fukugawa

Shin-±hashi

Shin-±hashi KodemmachŸ

SUMIDA RIVER (p125) IwamotochŸ

KandaNishikichŸ ±temachi

SHINJUKU (p114)

KabukichŸ

NishiWaseda

Takadanobaba

KitaShinjuku

ku

IKEBUKURO (p121)

CENTRAL TOKYO (p55)

JimbochŸ

Kotobuki TaitŸ

Asakusabashi Kotobuki

AKIHABARA & KANDA (p67)

SarugakuchŸ

HongŸ

Yushima

Ueno

Ueno

UENO (p70)

Higashi- Nishi- Kaminarimon Ueno Asakusa

Higashikomagata

Sumidaku

ASAKUSA (p85) Kita-

Asakusa

Hanakawado

Imado

TaitŸku Negishi

BunkyŸku

Yanaka

Arakawa-ku

Ikebukuro MinamiNishiIkebukuro Ikebukuro Mejiro Toshima-

NEIGHBOURHOODS

44

0 0

‘even Tokyoites joke among themselves that getting lost in their own city is a matter of course.’

Kioi-chŸ

The target of relentless Allied fire bombing during WWII, old Edo burnt to the ground in a fiery maelstrom. However, as Japan transformed itself into one of the world’s largest and most dynamic economies, the modern city of Tokyo quickly rose from the ashes. Today the greater Tokyo area numbers upwards of 35 million people, and is regarded by demographers as the largest metropolitan area in the world. Lacking the geometric precision of gridded cities common to Europe and North America, the urban complexity of Tokyo can be absolutely mindblowing to the uninitiated. In fact, even Tokyoites joke among themselves that getting lost in their own city is a matter of course. However, the key to breaking down Tokyo into manageable pieces is to simply view the capital as an amalgamation of minicities. Despite its fairly repetitious façade of stale concrete, blazing neon and jumbled electrical wires, Tokyo is actually made up of distinct neighbourhoods, each of which is distinguished by its own unique character and flair. Like Edo before it, Tokyo has long thought of itself in terms of the high city and the low city. The high city or Yamanote, home of the shōgun (and the nobles and samurai who served him), was a rarefied place, while the low city, or Shitamachi, was reserved for the commoners. If you look at a JR (Japan Rails) transit map today, you’ll notice a green ring around the city centre. This is the JR Yamanote Line, which loops around the heart of the city, connecting east and west, old and new. Transit, among a slew of other political, cultural and economic factors, has eliminated the distinctions between the high city and the low city. However, the unique heritage and idiosyncrasies of Tokyo’s mini-cities are still very much alive, and a quick stroll through each of the neighbourhoods is still the best way to get acquainted with the many faces of the capital. We begin at the centre of it all, the Imperial Palace, which is the geographical and spiritual heart of both Tokyo and Japan. Next we head east towards Ginza and the Sumida-gawa (Sumida River), which marks the eastern boundaries of Yamanote, and retains its high-stepping airs as the most prestigious shopping district in the country. Continuing north through the electronics district and geek capital of Akihabara, we arrive at the venerable cultural centres of Ueno and Asakusa, which form the living, breathing heart of the historic Shitamachi. Crossing the river brings us to Ryōgoku, seat of sumō culture, and the southeasterly manmade island of Odaiba, which has no intention whatsoever of taking you back to old Edo. Southwest of the Imperial Palace is the government district of Akasaka and the pleasure district turned design centre of Roppongi. In the southwesterly corner are the fashionable residential areas of Ebisu and Meguro, though class gives way to youth in the adjacent fashion hubs of Harajuku and Shibuya. Continuing north, we finish our tour at the high-rise-meetslow-rise cacophony of Shinjuku and Ikebukuro, two of the city’s most important financial and commercial districts. Indeed, the appeal of Tokyo lies in its multitude of layers, all of which must be peeled back in order to fully delve into the core of the city. Of course, penetrating the heart of the world’s largest metropolitan area is no easy task, though few urban destinations can offer as much variety as Tokyo. From the highfalutin boutiques of Ginza and the trendy street fashions of Harajuku, to the cheery fishmongers of Ueno and the chanting monks of Asakusa, Tokyo will lay siege to your senses from the moment you set foot on her streets.

as Tokyo can take several lifetimes to fully explore. Each of Tokyo’s neighbourhoods is best thought of as a city unto itself, adding layers of complexity to a capital defined by both tradition and modernity. However, most of its top sights can be checked off in a few days, though you should slow down and save enough time to savour a fine Japanese meal or take in one of the capital’s numerous cultural attractions. Indeed, the beauty of Japan is often revealed in the subtle nuances that lie behind the dense crowds and blazing neon.

AREA

ACTIVITIES Sights Central Tokyo

Shibuya & Harajuku

HOW TO USE THIS TABLE

The table below allows you to plan a day’s worth of activities in any area of the city. Simply select which area you wish to explore, and then mix and match from the corresponding listings to build your day. The first item in each cell represents a well-known highlight of the area, while the other items are more off-the-beaten-track gems.

Museums

Eating

Shopping

Entertainment

Imperial Palace (p50)

Bridgestone Museum of Art (p52)

Tsukiji Central Fish Market (p64)

Akihabara Electric Town (p67)

Kabuki-za (p176)

Yasukuni-jinja (p55)

Idemitsu Museum of Arts (p53)

Peter (p156)

Sony Building (p61)

Tokyo Dome (p58)

Kagurazaka (p60)

JCII Camera Museum (p58)

Kyūbei (p158)

Tsukiji Outer Market (p65)

La Qua Spa (p58)

Meiji-jingū (p109)

Tobacco & Salt Museum (p106)

Coucagno (p167)

Omote-sandō Boulevard (p142)

Bunkamura (p107)

Hachikō Statue (p105)

Tepco Electric Energy Museum (p107)

Nobu (p168)

Takeshita-dōri (p144)

Cerulean Tower Nō Theatre (p176)

Love Hotel Hill (p105)

Toguri Museum of Art (p108)

Fonda De La Madrugada (p168)

Mandarake (p143)

Kanze Nō-gakudō (p176)

Sensō-ji (p85)

Shitamachi Museum (p75)

Asakusa Imahan (p162)

Kappabashi-dōri (p138)

Sumida-gawa (River) Cruise (p87)

Asakusa-jinja (p86)

Kokuritsu Kagaku Hakubutsukan (National Science Museum; p74)

Komagata Dojō (p162)

Edo Shitamachi Dentō Kōgeikan (Traditional Crafts Museum; p89)

Ueno Kōen (Ueno Park; p70)

Chingodō-ji (p87)

Daikokuya (p163)

Taiko-kan (Taiko Drum Museum; p89)

Shinjuku & Ikebukuro

Roppongi & Akasaka

Odaiba

Ebisu & Daikanyama

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Ueno Dōbutsu-en (Ueno Zoo; p73)

Ameyoko (p70) Japan Traditional Craft Center

Shinjuku-gyōen (p119)

Japanese Sword Museum (p116)

Isetan & Seibu (p171)

Metropolitan Government Offices (p116)

Sompo Japan Museum of Art (p117)

Daidaya (p170)

Hanazono-jinja (p119)

Ikebukuro Bōsai-kan (Ikebukuro Earthquake Hall; p123)

Park Hyatt Delicatessen (p170)

Kabukichō (p119) Kinokuniya Bookshop (p119 & p143) Golden Gai (p119) Sunshine City (p121)

Tokyo Tower (p95)

Mori Art Museum (p95)

Vinoteca (p164)

Roppongi Hills (p94)

Blue Note Tokyo (p189)

National Diet Building (p91)

Suntory Museum of Art (p95)

China Room (p164)

Axis (p99)

Grand Prince Hotel Akasaka (p184)

Zōjō-ji (p98)

National Art Center, Tokyo (p99)

Fukuzushi (p164)

Complex (p99)

Heartland (p182)

Fuji TV Studio (p132)

Miraikan (p130)

Ōshima Endomae-dokoro (p173)

Venus Fort (p147)

Ō-edo Onsen Monogatari (p130)

Toyota Mega Web (p132)

Fune no Kagaku-kan (Museum of Maritime Science; p131)

Tsukiji Tama Sushi (p173)

Decks Tokyo Beach (p147)

Daien-ji (p100)

Meguro Parasitological Museum (p103)

Mushroom (p165)

Yebisu Garden Place (p141)

Yebisu Garden Cinema (p188)

Shizen Kyōiku-en (Institute for Nature Study; p101)

Meguro Museum of Art, Tokyo (p103)

Toki no Ma (p166)

Daikanyama Address (p141)

Beer Museum Yebisu (p100)

Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Meguro gajoen (Meguro Wedding Hall; p104) Photography (p103)

NEIGHBOURHOODS ITINERARY BUILDER

NEIGHBOURHOODS ITINERARY BUILDER

Asakusa & Ueno

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ITINERARY BUILDER Planning an itinerary through the world’s largest megalopolis is no small task, especially

New York Grill and Bar (p181)

(p123)

Ricos Kitchen (p165)

47

y

ri

i-

a-d Ÿri

Ÿri

Akasaka

Sak ura d

Gaienmae

dŸ ri aam

y Ao

Roppongi

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Expw y

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Shirokanetakanawa

ri dŸ

Shizen KyŸikuen k Za Go n n s u ke Meguro o

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uto

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2 8 TennŸzu-Isle

E

Sh

Shinagawa Daiba

To Haneda Airport (10km)

Tokyo Teleport

ShiokazeWest kŸen Promenade

Roppongi pp96–7 Ebisu, Daikanyama & Meguro p102 Shibuya p106 Harajuku & Aoyama p110 Shinjuku p116 Ikebukuro p122 Sumida River p126 Odaiba p131

r Rive da

16 Sengakuji

21

48

9 Shinonome

Shirokanedai

Gotanda

To Narita Airport (51km)

ShijnToyosu

KŸtŸ-ku

Shinagawa-ku

Akasaka p92

Aomi Jugochi Wharf East

Jugochi Wharf West

INFORMATION Immigration Information Centre ࠫࠚࠗ࠹ࠖ࡯ࡆ࡯ ....................................1 C6 Japan Travel Bureau (JTB) ࠫࠚࠗ࠹ࠖ࡯ࡆ࡯ ....................................2 C6 Seibo International Catholic Hospital ⡛Უ∛㒮 ............................................................3 A2

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191-200) International Aikidō Federation ࿖㓙ว᳇㆏දળ ..........................................12 B3 Takadanobaba Citizen Ice Skate Rink

Toyosu

Tatsumi Tokyo Bay

Asakusa p86

ENTERTAINMENT (pp175–90) Ageha ࠕࠥࡂ ........................................................9 F5 Die Pratze ࠺ࠖࡊ࡜࠶࠷ .............................10 C2 Hot House ࡎ࠶࠻ࡂ࠙ࠬ ............................11 A2

Shijo-mae Shibaura FutŸ

Ueno p72

Kiba

Shin-kiba

9

Takanawadai

10

Sh

4

Hinode

hi as

tema Ya

Meguro

Lo o p Line

Akihabara & Kanda p68

EATING (pp149–74) Les Deux Bleue ࡟࠼࠘࡯ࡉ࡞࡯................. 6 E5 Sakana-ya Ajisen ⢓߿๧ᴰ .............................7 E4 TY Harbor Brewery ࠹ࠖ࡯ࡢࡂ࡯ࡃ࡯ࡉ࡞ࡢ࡝࡯ .........8 C6

Minato-ku 6

wa Mita

Meguro-ku

Kachidoki HammamatsuchŸ

Tsukiji & Shiodome p65

SHOPPING (pp135–48) Bingoya ஻ᓟደ ....................................................5 B3

Tsukishima

7

Takeshiba

ShibakŸen

Ginza p62

SIGHTS (p124) Gokoku-ji ⼔࿖ኹ .................................................4 B2

Tsukiji

ya-ga

Nakameguro

Ojima

Monzen-nakachŸ

ShintomichŸ

Etchujima

Tsukiji Shiodome

Minato-ku

Shibu

NishiOjika

i-b ok id

Ebisu

Ginza

UchisaiwaichŸ obo ri-d Ÿri

ch

ri

Ebisu

Kikukawa

HatchŸbori

Ka

Ÿ eiji- d M Daikanyama

Hiro-o

Azabuj¥ban

Morishital

Onarimon

ri Roppongi-dŸ

Shibuya

11

RoppongiitchŸme KamiyachŸ

Roppongi

Sumiyoshi

Metropolitan Kiba Park

3

i Ÿr i-d m ru Ha

Shibuya

Nogizaka

Aoyama Rei-en (Aoyama Cemetery)

Sot

7 Shuto Expwy No

Higashi-nihombashi HamachŸ

KayabachŸ

Hibiy a-d ori

Akasaka

YoyogikŸen To Suzunari Theatre (2 km)

KeiyŸdŸri

Bakuroyokoyama

Kameido

KinshichŸ

RyŸgoku

Tokyo

oridŸr i

-dŸ

Omurai

Kiyosumi shirakawa

Chiyoda-ku

NagatachŸ

Oshiage

mi

Meiji-dŸr i

as h

ama

Aoy

d

Ex

Sumida-ku

Central Tokyo p56

15

Su

Imperial Palace

Uch ib

Shinanomachi

g n-hi

MeijikŸen

Harajuku

Shinjuku-dŸri

pw

Gaie

Sendagaya

Meijijing¥gyoen

Yotsuya

Hikifune

Imperial Palace & Marunouchi pp52–3

NEIGHBOURHOODS GREATER TOKYO

8

Keisei-Hikifune

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

Hirai

NingyŸchŸ

o

12

KŸjimachi HanzŸmon t Shu

MinamiShinjuku

Shibuyaku

Ichigaya

e

Ÿri

Shinjuku ShinjukuYoyogi gyoen

Kanda

BudŸkan

ri Ÿ-dŸ Ch ¥

KŸen-d

NEIGHBOURHOODS GREATER TOKYO



s KŸ

1

Akebonobashi YotsuyasanchŸme

Shinjuku Ÿ aid -K

Akihabara

JimbŸchŸ

Kudanshita

Shinjuku-ku

ri

SuehirochŸ KuramaebashidŸr i

Ochanomizu

L in

Yasukuni-d Ÿ

12

Wakamatsukawada

p

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TaitŸ Asakusabashi

Ushigomekagurazaka

5

13

Seibu Shinjuku

5

Kagurazaka

UshigomeyanagichŸ

±kubo

Asakusa

oo

±kubo-dŸri

Asakusa SumidaKoto toi-d kŸen Ÿri AsakusakŸen

KasugadŸri

2

oL Chu

Shin±kubo

Koishikawa KŸrakuen

10

Waseda

Ueno

7

-

ToyamakŸen

Ueno- Ueno kŸen

d Ÿ ri

Kasuga

y pw Ex

Edogawabashi

Takadanobaba

Shinobaz u

15

dŸri HongŸ-

13

HigashiMukŸjima

22 20

Todaimae Nezu

Waseda University

Yahiro

19

TaitŸ-ku

Omokagebashi

11

14

18

o

ri

ri

Gokokuji

16

ut Sh

dŸ n-

Kishimonjinmae

Koishikawa Botanical Garden MyŸgadani

Takadanobaba

To Mandarake Nakano Superstore (3 km); Tokyo Keibajo(13km)

Yanaka Cemetery

sa

-dŸri

4

-dŸ

GakushiIn-Shita

Nippori

BunkyŸ-ku

Ha k u

dŸri M eiji-

Ochiai Central KŸen

Me

jiro

Shin-Mejiro

Shin±tsuka

MAP INDEX Yotsugi

Minamisenju Minowa

Sengoku

Mejiro

3

6

±tsuka 17 MukŸhara

Toshima-ku To International Yoga Center (3km)

Kangafuchi

Arakawa-ku

Sugamo

Ikebukuro

2 km 1 mile

KeiseiTateishi

Kita-ku

Komagome

o5 yN

Ikebukuro

KanamechŸ

Tabata To Tokyo Tomin Golf Course (2km)

Rikugien

Sh ut

KŸshinZuka

Sh uto E

lonelyplanet.com

Senkawa To East West Japanese Language Institute (1.5km); Kyumeikan (8km) 14

w xp

lonelyplanet.com

0 0

GREATER TOKYO

㜞↰㚍႐ࠪ࠴࠭ࡦࠕࠗࠬࠬࠤ࡯࠻ ࡝ࡦࠢ ...............................................................13 A2 SLEEPING (pp201–16) Andon RyokanⴕἮᣏ㙚 ..............................14 E1 Four Seasons Chinzan-sō ࡈࠜ࡯ࠪ࡯࠭ࡦ࠭ ᬞጊ⨿ .............. 15 B2 Hotel Accela ࡎ࠹࡞ࠕࠢ࠮࡜ ....................16 E1 Hotel Bellclassic ࡎ࠹࡞ࡌ࡞ࠢ࡜ࠪ࠶ࠢ ......................... 17 B1 Hotel New Azuma ࡎ࠹࡞࠾ࡘ࡯޽ߠ߹................................18 E1 Hotel New Kōyō ࡎ࠹࡞࠾ࡘ࡯⚃㓁 .......19 E1 Juyoh Hotel ࡎ࠹࡞ኼ㓁 ................................20 E1 Ryokan Sansuisō ᣏ㙚ጊ᳓⨿ ..................... 21 B6 Tokyo Backpackers ᧲੩ࡃ࠶ࠢࡄ࠶ࠞ࡯࠭ ..........................22 E1

49

KYŌKYO (IMPERIAL PALACE) Map pp52–3

⊞ዬ The Imperial Palace is the permanent residence of Japan’s emperor and imperial family. Given the recent birth of future emperor Prince Hisahito, the frequent nervous breakdowns of Princess Masako and the debate regarding Princess Aiko’s right of ascension, new stories surrounding the imperial family are splashed across the Japanese tabloids on a daily basis. Of course, unlike their royal counterparts in the UK, life in the Imperial Palace is rigidly controlled by a secretive organisation known as the Imperial Household Agency, which keeps any potential scandals under wraps. Completed in 1968, the palace itself is a somewhat staid, contemporary reconstruction of the Meiji Imperial Palace, which was targeted by aerial bombers during WWII. However, on these grounds once stood Edo Castle, which in its time was the largest castle in the world. The first Edo Castle was home to a prominent feudal lord,

50

though the grounds were abandoned following his assassination in 1486. In 1590, Tokugawa Ieyasu chose the grounds as the site for an unassailable castle from which the shōgun was to rule all Japan until the Meiji Restoration. Edo Castle was fortified by a complex system of stone walls, moats, watch towers and armouries. However, this didn’t stop the commoners from rising up, and by the

TRANSPORT: IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI Train The JR Yamanote Line stops at brick-fronted Tokyo Station, which borders the Imperial Palace to the west. Yūrakuchō Station, one stop south, may be more convenient to some destinations. Metro The Marunouchi Line runs along the east side of the Imperial Palace and connects with Tokyo Station. The Toei Mita, Chiyoda and Hanzōmon Lines also have stops near Tokyo Station and around the Imperial Palace.

HIGASHI-GYŌEN (IMPERIAL PALACE EAST GARDEN) Map pp52–3 ᧲ᓮ⧞ %3213-2050; admission free; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun Mar-Oct, closed for imperial functions & from 4pm Nov-Feb; bMarunouchi, Tozai, Chiyoda or Hanzōmon Line to Ōtemachi (exits c13b or c8b) Higashi-gyōen is the only corner of the Imperial Palace proper that is regularly open to the public, and it makes for a pleasant retreat from the grinding hustle and bustle of Tokyo. Here you can get up-close-andpersonal views of the massive stones used to build the castle walls, and even climb the ruins of one of the keeps, off the upper lawn. Although entry is free, the number of visitors at any one time is limited, so it never feels crowded. Entry here is through one of three gates: Ōte-mon on the east side and Hirakawamon and Kitahanebashi-mon on the north side. Most people enter through Ōte-mon, which is situated closest to Tokyo Station, and was the principal entrance to Edo Castle for more than 200 years. Here you may want to make a stop at the Museum of Imperial Collections, which mounts small exhibits of the 5000-plus artworks held within the palace.

KITANOMARU-KŌEN (KITANOMARU PARK) Map pp52–3 ർߩਣ౏࿦ bHanzōmon Line or Shinjuku or Tōzai Line to Kudanshita (exit 2), or Tōzai Line to Takebashi (exit 1a) This large park north of the Imperial Palace grounds is home to a few noteworthy mu-

seums as well as the Nihon Budōkan (%32165123; 2-3 Kitanomaru-kōen). Westerners know the 14,000-plus-seat Budōkan as Tokyo’s legendary concert hall for big acts from the Beatles to Beck, but it was originally built as the site of martial arts championships (judō, karate, kendō, aikidō) for the 1964 Olympics (budō means ‘martial arts’). These arts are still practised and exhibited here today – for more information, see p192. Located in a position southeast of the Budōkan is Kagaku Gijitsukan (Science Museum; %3212-2440; www.jsf.or.jp/eng; 2-1 Kitanomarukōen, Chiyoda-ku; adult/child ¥600/250, student ¥400; h9am-4.50pm), which features a good selection of exhibits aimed primarily at children and teenagers. There is little in the way of English explanations, but there is an excellent bilingual guidebook (¥200) available. Even without a guidebook or an understanding of Japanese, you can still stand inside a soap bubble, and visit the ‘methane boy’ (he emits exactly what you think he emits). In the south of the park, facing the Imperial Palace East Garden, is the contemporary art museum Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan (National Museum of Modern Art, MOMAT; %5777-8600; www .momat.go.jp/english; 3-2 Kitanomaru-kōen, Chiyoda-ku; adult/senior & child/student ¥420/free/130; h10am5pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun, 10am-8pm Fri). All pieces date from the Meiji period onwards and impart a sense of a more modern Japan through portraits, photography and grim wartime landscapes. Its collection of over 9000 works is arguably the best in the country. Situated conveniently nearby, MOMAT also operates the Bijutsukan Kōgeikan (Crafts Gallery; 1 Kitanomaru-kōen, Chiyoda-ku; adult/senior & under 15/student ¥200/100/70; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun), which is an excellent museum to visit. It stages changing exhibitions of mingei crafts: ceramics, lacquerware, bamboo, textiles, dolls and much more. Artists range from living national treasures to contemporary artisans. Its red-brick building is an important cultural property in its own right – it dates from 1910, when it was the headquarters of the imperial guards, and was rebuilt after destruction in WWII. The gate at the northern end, Tayasumon, dates from 1636, making it the oldest remaining gate in the park.

51

NEIGHBOURHOODS IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI

NEIGHBOURHOODS IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI

Eating p156; Shopping p136; Sleeping p204 The geographical and spiritual heart of Tokyo and Japan is the Imperial Palace (below), which has been the centre of national affairs since the year 1600. Under the watch of shōgun Tokugawa Ieyasu and his descendants, the city of Edo expanded at a breakneck pace, on its way to becoming a military stronghold and one of the world’s largest cities. Edo Castle (Edo-jō), which grew to include the thick stone walls and expansive moat that remain today, became the focus of the shōgun’s power. Although few other vestiges of the castle survived Allied bombing, its imposing grounds still house the reconstructed Imperial Palace. However, in truth most of the area’s power-brokering takes place a short walk away in adjacent Marunouchi. Here, government ministries, national financial institutions and corporate headquarters attend to the daily ebb and flow of the world’s second-largest economy. The historic Yamanote has greatly expanded beyond this tract of land, though the Imperial Palace and Marunouchi recall the era when the high town was the command post of a nation. The monolithic ministry and insurance industry buildings fronting the palace survived WWII, and still carry out their original functions. At nearby Tokyo Station, legions of salarymen (office workers) pass through the turnstiles, each devoting their time and energy to keeping Japan’s financial gears churning. Northeast of the Imperial Palace lies the remnants of Edo’s rough-and-tumble low city, namely the historic Shitamachi and the modern district of Ueno. The electronics district of Akihabara is to the east, and the glitzy Ginza and the fish market at Tsukiji are to the south. The bustling government and business district of Akasaka is to the southwest, while the districts collectively known as Central Tokyo lie to the north and northwest. Once you’ve arrived at Tokyo Station, the western exit will take you out towards the Imperial Palace. It is an easy, accessible five-minute walk through Marunouchi’s rows of banks and blue suits and onward to one of the most open spaces in the city, within which lives the most cloistered family in Japan. The eastern exit takes you to Yaesu and more of the financial district.

time Commodore Perry and the black ships brought about the end of shōgunal rule in 1868, large sections of the old castle had already been destroyed. In the years to follow, the Emperor Meiji took up power in Edo, and much of the remaining castle was torn down to make way for the new Imperial Palace. The palace itself is closed to the public for all but two days a year: 2 January (New Year’s holiday) and 23 December (the Emperor’s birthday). But it is possible to wander around its outskirts and to visit the gardens, from where you can catch a glimpse of the palace’s most famous landmark, the double-barrelled bridge, Nijū-bashi.

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I M PE R IAL PAL AC E & M AR U N O UCH I

Kiy

Kanda

JimbŸchŸ ␹଻↸

om izu

KandaKeisatsu

t M oa

KitanomarukŸen (Kitanomaru Park) ർߩਣ౏࿦

13

± tsu

ma-d Ÿri

Yasukuni-dŸri Ogawamachi

4

19

See Central Tokyo Map p56

Suzuran-dŸri

35

21

KandaNishikichŸ ␹↰㍪↸

-dŸri

IwamotochŸ ጤᧄ↸

See Akihabara & Kanda Map p68

KodemmachŸ ዊવ㚍↸ JR Kanda

Sh u

15

to

No

KodemmachŸ

Expw

a

ri

Shin-nihombashi

See Sumida River Map p126

y No

±temachi ᄢᚻ↸

Area not open to public

Ÿ-dŸ

5

14

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to Shu

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10

Ch¥

Takebashi

oat HanzŸ M

500 m 0.3 miles

AwajichŸ

1

7

9

Fukiage Imperial Gardens

Nihombashi ᣣᧄᯅ

2

24 Eitai-

Chiyoda-ku ජઍ↰඙

dŸri

ShimodŸkan Moat

Mitsukoshimae

3

±temachi

26

33

U c h i b o r i- d Ÿ

18

12 Wadakura Square

Kokuritsu GeikijŸ

Sa25 ku ra-

Yaesu ౎㊀ᵮ

Yae s

dŸ ri

27

Nihombashi ᣣᧄᯅ

u-d

6

Ÿri

KyŸbashi ੩ᯅ

TOKYO INTERNATIONAL FORUM Map pp52–3

᧲੩࿖㓙ࡈࠜ࡯࡜ࡓ %5221-9000; 3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; admission free; bJR Yamanote Line to Yūrakuchō, or Yūrakuchō Line to Yūrakuchō (exit a4b) Located between Tokyo and Yūrakuchō Stations, the Forum is truly one of Tokyo’s architectural marvels. Architect Rafael Viñoly won Japan’s first international architecture competition with his design that matches a building with this sort-oftrapezoidal lot, hemmed in by train tracks on the east side. Completed in 1996, the Forum sits on land that had previously been the site of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices, which moved to their present location in Shinjuku (p116).

31

Hibiya-kŸen (Hibiya Park) ᣣᲧ⼱౏࿦ Hibiya

Y¥rakuchŸ

Y¥rakuchŸ 34 30

See Ginza Map p62

-dŸ n-± has i

ri

࿖ળ೨ᐸ๺ᑼᐸ࿦

KyŸbashi

JR Y¥rakuchŸ

-dŸ

See Akasaka Map p92

ori

Kokkaimae

National Garden Diet (Japanese Building Style)

Marunouchi 22 ਣߩౝ

Nij¥bashimae 11

Ginza S

Shi

Kokkai-gijidŸmae

(pp50–4) SIGHTS Bridgestone Museum of Art ࡉ࡝࠵ࠬ࠻ࡦ⟤ⴚ㙚 .....8 E4 Higashi-gyōen (Imperial Palace East Garden) ᧲ᓮ⧞...................................................................................... 9 C2 Hirakawa-mon ᐔᎹ㐷 .........................................................10 C2 Idemitsu Museum of Arts ಴శ⟤ⴚ㙚 ...........................11 C4 Imperial Household Agency ችౝᐡ ..............................12 B3 Kagaku Gijitsukan (Science Museum) ⑼ቇᛛⴚ㙚 ...13 B1 Kitahanebashi-mon ർ᪃ᯅ㐷...........................................14 B2 Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan (National Museum of Modern Art) ࿖┙ㄭઍ⟤ⴚ㙚........................................15 B1 Kyōkyo (Imperial Palace) ⊞ዬ...........................................16 B3 Museum of Imperial Collections ਃߩਣዏ⬿㙚 .........17 C2 Nihombashi ............................................................................. 18 F3 Nihon Budōkan ᣣᧄᱞ㆏㙚..............................................19 B1 Nijū-bashi ੑ㊀ᯅ ..................................................................20 B3 Tayasu-mon ↰቟㐷..............................................................21 B1 Tokyo International Forum ᧲੩࿖㓙ࡈࠜ࡯࡜ࡓ.... 22 D4 Tokyo Stock Exchange ᧲੩⸽೛ขᒁᚲ....................... 23 F3 Ōte-mon ᄢᚻ㐷 ................................................................... 24 D2

8 ri

Sakuradamon

Uc hib

Kokkaimae Garden (Western Style) ࿖ળ೨ᐸᵗᑼᐸ࿦

Yaesu Central Exit

Hibiy

1

TOKYO

28

36

Sot ob or i -dŸ ri

Moat saki Baba

Imperial Palace Plaza

20

Tokyo 30

ri

oa t

Imperial Palace Outer Garden

23

Nihombashi 5

INFORMATION American Pharmacy ࠕࡔ࡝ࠞࡦࡈࠔ࡯ࡑࠪ࡯.....(see 29) Babasakimon Police Box 㚍႐వ㐷੤⇟ ......................... 1 C4 Bank of Japan ᣣᧄ㌁ⴕ .........................................................2 E2 Bank of Tokyo-Mitsubishi ᧲੩ਃ⪉㌁ⴕ ........................3 E2 Jimbōchō Post Office ␹଻↸ㇷଢዪ ............................... 4 C1 Post Office ㇷଢዪ ....................................................................5 E3 Tokyo Central Post Office ᧲੩ਛᄩㇷଢዪ...................................................................6 D4 Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau (TCVB) ᧲੩࿖㓙ㇷଢዪ..............................................................(see 34) Tokyo International Post Office ᧲੩࿖㓙ㇷଢዪ ........7 E2

TakarachŸ

aku ra

The glass eastern wing looks like a fantastic ship plying the urban waters, while the west wing is a cavernous space of vaulted steel and glass. At night, the glass hall is lit up by hundreds of precisely placed beams, and takes on the appearance of a space colony. Although it’s used principally for its meeting halls and convention venues, for the casual visitor there are restaurants, cafés and shops throughout.

BRIDGESTONE MUSEUM OF ART Map pp52–3

ࡉ࡝࠵ࠬ࠻ࡦ⟤ⴚ㙚 %3563-0241; www.bridgestone-museum.gr .jp/en/; adult/under 15/student/senior ¥800/ free/500/600; h10am-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; bGinza or Tozai Line to Nihombashi (Taka-

-dŸri

Ch¥Ÿ-ku ਛᄩ඙

shimaya exit), Ginza Line to Kyōbashi (Meidi-ya exit) or JR Yamanote or Marunouchi Line to Tokyo (Yaesu Central exit) Tokyo has a love affair with all things French, so it shouldn’t come as too much of a surprise that French impressionist art looms large in the civic imagination. The Bridgestone Tyre Company’s collection, which was previously kept as a private collection by Bridgestone founder Ishibashi Shojiro, is one of the best French impressionist collections you will find in all of Asia. Though French painting is undoubtedly the main attraction (think Renoir, Ingres, Corot, Matisse et al), the museum also exhibits sculpture and some works by Japanese impressionists as well as European pieces that employ abstract or neoclassical aesthetics.

SHOPPING (pp135–48) Maruzen ਣༀ......................................................................... 25 E3 Mitsukoshi ਃ⿧...................................................................... 26 E3 Takashimaya 㜞ፉደ............................................................. 27 E3 EATING (pp149–74) Hump ࠩࡂࡦࡊ.....................................................................28 D3 Kua 'Aina ࠢࠕࠕࠗ࠽.............................................................29 D3 Peter ࡇ࡯࠲.............................................................................30 C4 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191–200) All Japan Kendō Federation ోᣣᧄ೶㆏ㅪ⋖..........(see 19) Imperial Palace Cycling Course Bike Pick-up................31 C4 SLEEPING (pp201–16) Marunouchi Hotel ਣࡁౝࡎ࠹࡞ ................................... 32 D3 Palace Hotel ࡄ࡟ࠬࡎ࠹࡞ .............................................. 33 D3 Peninsula Hotel ࠩ࡮ࡍ࠾ࡦࠪࡘ࡜᧲੩......................34 C4 Sakura Hotel ࠨࠢ࡜ࡎ࠹࡞...............................................35 C1 Yaesu Terminal Hotel ౎㊀ᵮ࠲࡯ࡒ࠽࡞ࡎ࠹࡞ ...... 36 E3

IDEMITSU MUSEUM OF ARTS Map pp52–3

಴శ⟤ⴚ㙚 %3213-9402; www.idemitsu.co.jp/museum, in Japanese; 9th fl, 3-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; adult/student ¥800/500; h10am-5pm Tue-Thu,

53

NEIGHBOURHOODS IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI

M

KamidŸkan Moat

Marunouchi Central Exit

a-do

ri Supreme Court

32 ShinMarunouchi Building

16

i bor daura Sak

NEIGHBOURHOODS IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI

National Theatre (Kokuritsu GekijŸ)

52

±temachi

±temachi

17

Ch¥Ÿ-ku ਛᄩ඙

IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI

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IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI

In Tokyo, finding a place from its address can be difficult, even for locals. The problem is twofold: first, addresses are given within a district rather than along a street (only major streets have names or numbers); and second, building numbers are not necessarily consecutive, as prior to the mid-1950s numbers were assigned by date of construction. During the US occupation after WWII, an attempt was made to impose some ‘logic’ upon the system, and main streets were assigned names, though the city reverted to its own system after the Americans left. Tokyo, like most Japanese cities, is divided first into ku (wards – Tokyo has 23 of them), which in turn are divided into chō or machi (towns) and then into numbered chōme (cho-may), areas of just a few blocks. Subsequent numbers in an address refer to blocks within the chōme and buildings within each block. In English, addresses are most often written, for example, ‘3-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo’: the ‘3’ refers to the chōme; the ‘5’ narrows down the field to a single block within the chōme; and the ‘1’ indicates a specific building, all within the Marunouchi district of Chiyoda ward. A number followed by an F in an address indicates the floor within the building. Note that when written in Japanese the order is reversed (‘Tokyo, Chiyoda-ku, Marunouchi 3-5-1’). Of course! Generally you have to ask for directions. Numerous kōban (local police boxes) are there largely for this purpose. Businesses often include a small map on their advertisements or business cards, or most are happy to email you a map. It was not too long ago that you needed this map to show to a taxi driver, but nowadays if you have the address they can generally get you there by means of a navigation system. If you’re arriving by train or subway, be sure to also get the closest exit number from the station. We’ve provided transit information throughout this guidebook, including exit numbers where useful. Otherwise, you can pick up a bilingual road atlas (Kodansha publishes the excellent Tokyo City Atlas) or buy a map that shows every building in every chōme. More and more there are also directional signs in English to important locations. see a replica of the original wooden bridge, visit the Edo-Tokyo Museum (p125).

This excellent collection of Japanese art, sprinkled liberally with Chinese and Korean pottery and a few stray Western pieces, is the result of the lifetime passion of petroleum magnate Idemitsu Sazo. As there is no permanent display, exhibits change every few months, highlighting the complete depth of Idemitsu’s collection. The museum also provides broad views across to the grounds of the Imperial Palace.

TOKYO STOCK EXCHANGE Map pp52–3

YASUKUNI-JINJA (YASUKUNI SHRINE) Map p56

NIHOMBASHI Map pp52–3 ᣣᧄᯅ bGinza Line to Mistukoshimae (exits B5 or B6) or Nihombashi (exits B11 or B12) Even with the bronze lions guarding it, you could be forgiven for walking right past this granite bridge under an expressway, where Chūō-dōri meets Nihombashi-gawa. Still, it bears mention for its historic significance. Nihombashi (‘Japan bridge’) was the point from which all distances were measured during the Edo period, the beginning of the great trunk roads (the Tōkaidō, the Nikkō Kaidō etc) that took daimyō (feudal lords) between Edo and their home provinces. To

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᧲੩⸽೛ขᒁᚲ %3665-1881; www.tse.or.jp; 2-1 Nihombashi Kabutocho, Chūō-ku; admission free; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri with the exception of holidays; bTōzai Line to Kayabacho (exit 11) or Toei Asakusa Line to Nihombashi (exit D2) The Tokyo Stock Exchange (TSE) has been operating since 1878, and today it is the world’s second-largest capital market after the New York Stock Exchange. The two main indices of the TSE are the benchmark Nikkei (an index of 225 companies selected by the Nihon Keizai Shimbun, Japan’s leading economic daily) and the broader TOPIX index, which covers all 1600 companies on the TSE’s prestigious 1st Section. Though the Tokyo Stock Exchange no longer echoes with the flurry of unbridled activity (the trading floor closed in the spring of 1999, and now all trading is by computer), it’s still worth a visit. You can walk through the visitors galleries, or inquire about the 40-minute guided Englishlanguage tour (with video presentation).

㕏࿖␹␠ %3261-8326, Yūshūkan 3261-0998; www .yasukuni.or.jp; 3-1-1 Kudankita, Chiyoda-ku; shrine admission free, Yūshūkan admission adult ¥800, student ¥300-500; h9am-5.30pm Mar-Oct, 9am5pm Nov-Feb; bTōzai, Hanzōmon or Toei Shinjuku Line to Kudanshita (exit 1) If you’ve kept up with international headlines, you might recall several news stories about China, Korea and other Asian nations taking to the streets every time a Japanese politician (such as former Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi) visited Yasukuni-jinja. Literally ‘For the Peace of the Country Shrine’, Yasukuni is the memorial shrine to Japan’s war dead, some 2.5 million souls who died in combat. However, although the conservative right wing in Japan stands by its patriotic duty to honour its war dead, the complete story is just a tad more controversial (to say the least). To put things in perspective, it’s important to fully understand the history of Yasukuni-jina. Although the shrine only dates back to 1869, in the years leading up to and during WWII, it was chosen as Tokyo’s chief shrine of State Shintō. During this time, Yasukuni-jinja became the physi-

cal representation of the Japanese government’s jingoistic policy. Needless to say, the Asian countries that suffered under the harsh grip of Imperial Japan are less than ecstatic when heads of state stop by and pay their respects. Of course, that’s only half the story. Despite a post-war constitutional commitment to the separation of religion and politics as well as a renunciation of militarism, in 1979 14 class-A war criminals (as determined by the US-led International Military Tribunal for the Far East) including Hideki Tojo (infamous WWII general) were enshrined here amid worldwide protests. And, as if to add salt to the wound, leading Liberal Democratic Party (LDP) politicians have made a habit of visiting the shrine on the anniversary of Japan’s defeat in WWII (15 August).

TRANSPORT: CENTRAL TOKYO Train The JR Chūō and JR Sōbu Lines stop at Iidabashi and Suidōbashi, which are located at the centre of this area. Metro Useful stations include Iidabashi (Toei Ōedo Line), Kōrakuen (Marunouchi Line), Kagurazaka (Tōzai Line) and Hanzōmon (Hanzōmon Line).

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NEIGHBOURHOODS CENTRAL TOKYO

NEIGHBOURHOODS IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI

Sat & Sun, 10am-7pm Fri; bJR Yamanote Line to Yūrakuchō, or subway Chiyoda or Toei Mita Line to Hibiya (exit A1 or B3)

Eating p157; Shopping p138; Sleeping p205 More a collection of contiguous neighbourhoods than one unified district, the area north and west of the Imperial Palace spans the spectrum from historic gardens and samurai quarters to baseball stadiums, amusement parks and war memorials. Commonly referred to as Central Tokyo, the bulk of historic Yamanote is somewhat lacking in terms of an identifiable character, though its continued wealth and status is evident in the soaring steel and glass skyscrapers that line the streets. However, Central Tokyo does have a number of noteworthy sights, which are definitely worth seeking out amid the urban sprawl. Closest to the Imperial Palace is the infamous Yasukuni-jinja (below), a controversial shrine to Japan’s war dead that is plastered across the international headlines every time a Japanese politician stops by to pay their respects. Although a quick pass through the onsite WWII history museum is somewhat sobering to say the least, it does feature high on the itineraries of politically savvy foreign travellers. Northwest of the palace is Kōrakuen, which originally housed the pleasure gardens of the Yamanote nobility. Today, it continues to be a place of amusement, especially since the neighbourhood is home to the Tokyo Dome (p58), the fabled home of the Yomiuri Giants, the Japanese equivalent of the New York Yankees. Also in the shadow of the dome is Koishikawa Kōrakuen (p58), a traditional Japanese garden that is no longer reserved for the highest of classes. West of the palace is Kagurazaka, which offers up quaint old-Edo streetscapes and hide-and-seek alleys, which would provide the perfect setting for a romantic tryst or a shady backroom deal. Central Tokyo is roughly bordered by the grounds of the Imperial Palace to the east, the government and business district of Akasaka to the south and greater Shinjuku and Ikebukuro to the west and northwest.

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SIGHTS (pp55–60) Baseball Hall of Fame & Museum ㊁⃿૕⢒ඳ‛㙚 ............................ (see 9) JCII Camera Museum ᣣᧄࠞࡔ࡜ඳ‛㙚 .......................... 6 B4 Kakurenbo-yokochč..............................7 B1 La Qua Spa ࡜ࠢ࡯ࠕࠬࡄ.............(see 9) Leafcup ࡝࡯ࡈࠞ࠶7ࡊ....................8 C2 New Ōtani Art Museum ................(see 20) Tokyo Dome ᧲੩࠼࡯ࡓࠪ࠹ࠖ....9 D1

DRINKING (pp175–90) Grand Prince Hotel Akasaka ࠣ࡜ࡦ࠼ࡊ࡝ࡦࠬࡎ࠹࡞⿒ဈ(see 19)

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191–200) Academy of Language Arts ࠕࠞ࠺ࡒ࡯ࠝࡉ࡜ࡦࠥ࡯ࠫ ࠕ࡯࠷................................................18 C1 EATING (pp149–74) La Qua Spa ࡜ࠢ࡯ࠕࠬࡄ............. (see 9) Beer Bar Bitter ࡆࠕࡃ࡯  Leafcup ࡝࡯ࡈࠞ࠶7ࡊ.................(see 8) ࡆ࠲࡯..............................................13 C1 (pp201–16) Canal Café ࠞ࠽࡞ࠞࡈࠚ.............14 C1 SLEEPING Kado ࠞ࠼...........................................15 B1 Grand Prince Hotel Akasaka ࠣ࡜ࡦ࠼ࡊ࡝ࡦࠬࡎ࠹࡞⿒ဈ 19 B5 Seigetsu 㔿᦬ ....................................16 B1 Hotel New Ōtani ࡎ࠹࡞࠾ࡘ࡯ࠝ࡯࠲࠾...............20 A5 ENTERTAINMENT (pp175–90) Tokyo International Youth Hostel Session House ᧲੩࿖㓙ࡎࠬ࠹࡞ ........................21 C1 ࠮࠶࡚ࠪࡦࡂ࠙ࠬ ..................... 17 A1

Regardless of your political leanings, a visit to Yasukuni is highly recommended, especially since it’s one of the most beautiful shrines in Tokyo. Yasukuni-jinja’s enormous torii (gate) at the entrance is, unusually, made of steel, while the second set is made of bronze. The beautiful inner shrine is laid out in the style of Japan’s most important Shintō edifice, Ise Shrine (100km southeast of Kyoto), and there are often seasonal displays of ikebana in the inner courtyard. The grounds are charmingly home to a flock of doves, which balances out all the war hawks who are about. Beyond the inner shrine, visitors are likely to come away with mixed feelings about the shrine’s museum, the Yūshūkan, Japan’s oldest museum (1882). It starts, fittingly enough for a war memorial, with stately cases depicting Japan’s military heritage and traditions, punctuated by displays of swords and samurai armour, and art and poetry extolling the brave, daring and indomitable spirit of the Japanese people. However, as you gradually progress through Japan’s 19th- and early-20thcentury military conflicts – the Meiji Restoration, Satsuma Rebellion, tussles with Russia, occupation of Korea, and elsewhere – tempers tend to get a bit heated. But the source of the most controversy is the section of the museum covering the ‘Greater East Asian War’, which you probably know as WWII. While there is undoubtedly value in offering the Japanese perspective, one can also understand the anger of Japan’s neighbours at the ap-

parent watering down of the hardships they endured at Japan’s hands. Consider this gem about the Rape of Nanjing (here called the ‘Nanking Incident’) of December 1937: ‘The Chinese were soundly defeated, suffering heavy casualties. Inside the city, residents were once again able to live their lives in peace.’ Or you might learn that Japan was forced into attacking Pearl Harbor due to American and British foreign policy of the time, or that ‘The US had no interest in bringing the war to an early end.’ If this strikes you as blatant and altogether despicable revisionism, many of Japan’s neighbours feel the same. That said, many of the exhibits are fascinating and harrowing. Note the kaiten (human torpedo), essentially a submarine version of the kamikaze aeroplane. You can listen to the final message of a kaiten pilot to his family – it’s in Japanese but it’s easy to note how young he sounds. There’s also the ‘miracle coconut’ inscribed and set afloat by a Japanese soldier in the Philippines shortly before his death in 1944. The coconut floated in the Pacific for 31 years before washing up very near his widow’s hometown – you can still make out the Japanese characters. The walls of the last few galleries of the Yūshūkan are covered with seemingly endless photos of the dead, enough to leave a lump in many throats and make one wonder about the value of any war. As such, the feelings engendered by having to pay to visit a place of such solemnity can be mixed – feelings the attached gift shop, selling gaily decorated biscuits, chocolates and curry, doesn’t do much to dispel.

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NEIGHBOURHOODS CENTRAL TOKYO

NEIGHBOURHOODS CENTRAL TOKYO

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CENTRAL TOKYO INFORMATION Belgian Embassy...................................1 British Council ࡉ࡝࠹ࠖ࠶ࠪࡘࠞ࠙ࡦࠪ࡞ ....... 2 British Embassy ࠗࠡ࡝ࠬᄢ૶㙚... 3 Indian Embassy ࠗࡦ࠼ᄢ૶㙚 ....... 4 Irish Embassyࠕࠗ࡞࡜ࡦ࠼ᄢ૶㙚 5

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CENTRAL TOKYO

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TOKYO DOME CITY Map p56 ᧲੩࠼࡯ࡓࠪ࠹ࠖ There’s no shortage of stellar attractions awaiting you inside Tokyo Dome City:

Tokyo Dome ᧲੩࠼࡯ࡓ %5800-9999; www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/e; 1-3-61 Kōraku, Bunkyō-ku; all-day pass adult/child ¥4000/3000, night ticket (after 5pm) ¥3000/2800; h10am-10pm; bMarunouchi Line to Kōrakuen, or JR Chūō or JR Sōbu Line to Suidōbashi (west exit) Although the grounds were originally home to the historic Kōraku-en Stadium (1937), the Tokyo Dome (aka ‘Big Egg’) opened with great fanfare in 1988, and has never once looked back. Then again, it’s hard to remain nostalgic about the past when you’re home to the Yomiuri Giants, the most successful franchise in the history of Japanese baseball. The dome itself is an engineering marvel, especially considering that the Teflon roof is supported by nothing but air – the pressure is 0.3% higher indoors than out (what will the Japanese think of next?). You can take a stadium tour (%3817-6086; adult/child from ¥1000/600) on the rare occasions when no events are on, though it’s best to call in advance to confirm your spot. The Tokyo Dome is surrounded by an amusement park with the usual assortment of coasters and spinners, as well as a healthy smattering of bars, restaurants and shops. If you don’t want to invest in an all-day pass offering access to all of the rides (see information at the beginning of this listing), tickets are available for individual rides (¥400 to ¥1000). If you’re looking to catch the Yomiuri Giants in action, the baseball season typically runs from the end of March through October – see p198 for more details.

࡜ࠢ࡯ࠕࠬࡄ %5800-9999; www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/e/laqua/spa.htm; 1-3-61 Kōraku, Bunkyō-ku; entrance ¥2565, charge for Healing Baden ¥525, extra charge for late night bathing ¥1890; h11am-9am; bMarunouchi Line to Kōrakuen, or JR Chūō or JR Sōbu Line to Suidōbashi (west exit)

KOISHIKAWA KŌRAKUEN (KOISHIKAWA KŌRAKU GARDEN) Map p56

ዊ⍹Ꮉᓟᭉ࿦ %3811-3015; 1-6-6 Kōraku, Bunkyō-ku; adult/sen ior & child ¥300/free; h9am-5pm; bToei Ōedo Line to Iidabashi (exit C3) This 70,000-sq-metre formal Japanese garden is one of Tokyo’s most beautiful and least visited (by foreigners at least) – if you have the slightest interest in gardens, you should make a beeline for here. Established in the mid-17th century as the property of the Tokugawa clan, the garden incorporates elements of Chinese and Japanese landscaping, although nowadays the shakkei (borrowed scenery) also includes the otherworldly cool of the Tokyo Dome. The garden is particularly well known for plum trees in February, irises in June and autumn colours. Of particular note is the Engetsu-kyō (full moon bridge), which dates from the early Edo period.

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Kōrakuen means ‘the garden of later enjoyment’, which comes from a Chinese proverb about maintaining power first and enjoying it later – we assume this sounds better in Chinese.

JCII CAMERA MUSEUM Map p56 ᣣᧄࠞࡔ࡜ඳ‛㙚 %3263-7100; www.jcii-cameramuseum.jp; 25 Ichiban-cho, Chiyoda-ku; adult/child/student ¥300/ free/100; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; bHanzōmon Line to Hanzōmon (exit 4) What’s that? You didn’t know that Japan is obsessed with photography? This museum, established in 1989 by the Japan Camera Industry Institute, takes it a step further, for those for whom equipment is the thing. Holdings consist of over 10,000 cameras, of which as many as 600 may be on show at any one time. Highlights of the collection include the world’s first camera, the 1839 Giroux daguerreotype (one of an estimated seven worldwide) and the Sony Mavica, a prototype for the original digital camera,

Baseball Hall of Fame & Museum ㊁⃿૕⢒ඳ‛㙚 %3811-3600; 1-3-61 Kōraku, Bunkyō-ku; adult/child ¥400/200; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun MarSep, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Oct-Feb; bMarunouchi Line to Kōrakuen, or JR Chūō or JR Sōbu Line to Suidōbashi (west exit) Baseball arrived in Japan in 1872, courtesy of an American teacher at the school that eventually became Tokyo University. Since then it has been a national obsession among Japanese of all ages. From the establishment of college and professional baseball leagues in 1922 to the Japanese team winning the bronze medal at the 2004 Olympics, this museum walks you through the glorious history of the Japanese sport. Be sure to pick up the comprehensive English-language pamphlet so you don’t miss anything. The entrance to the museum is adjacent to Gate 21 of the Tokyo Dome. from which images had to be downloaded to a floppy disk. Behind the museum is the JCII photo salon (%3261-0300; admission free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun) with a changing roster of photography exhibits. Exiting Hanzōmon Station, walk around the Diamond Hotel. The photo salon is in this alley, while the museum entrance is through to the next street.

free, nonguests from ¥500; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun), which displays a decent collection of modern Japanese and French paintings as well as wood-block prints. Otherwise, visitors may be blown away by the hotel’s sheer mass: two towers, 1533 guest rooms, nearly three dozen banquet rooms and 37 (!) restaurants and bars. Be sure to pick up a map. Also see p205.

HOTEL NEW ŌTANI Map p56

YAMATANE BIJUTSUKAN (YAMATANE MUSEUM OF ART) Map p56

ࡎ࠹࡞࠾ࡘ࡯ࠝ࡯࠲࠾ %3265-1111; www1.newotani.co.jp/en/tokyo /index.html; 4-1 Kioi-chō, Chiyoda-ku; bGinza or Marunouchi Line to Akasaka-mitsuke (Belle Vie exit)

ጊ⒳⟤ⴚ㙚 %3239-5911; 2 Sanbanchō, Chiyoda-ku; adult/student ¥600/500, special exhibitions extra; h10am-5pm TueSun; bHanzōmon Line to Hanzōmon (exit 5)

The New Ōtani was a showplace when it opened in 1964 to coincide with the Tokyo Olympics. Even though the mantle of tippy-top hotel has since gone elsewhere, it remains worth visiting for its 400-year-old garden (admission free; h6am-10pm), which once belonged to a Tokugawa regent, and for the New Ōtani Art Museum (%3221-4111; hotel guests

This exceptional collection includes some 1800 Japanese paintings dating from the Meiji Restoration and onward, of which around 50 are on display at any one time; exhibits change approximately every two months. Some names to look for: Hayami Gyoshū (1894–1935), whose Dancing Flames is an important cultural property;

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NEIGHBOURHOODS CENTRAL TOKYO

NEIGHBOURHOODS CENTRAL TOKYO

La Qua Spa

The most sophisticated onsen (hot spring) in Tokyo, La Qua is the ultimate destination for public bathers looking to spoil themselves beyond comprehension. Spanning five floors of the Tokyo Dome, La Qua is a veritable pleasure palace that quickly overwhelms the senses of even the most passionate of hedonists. Start things off on the bathing floor in whichever hot, cold, indoor, outdoor, still, bubbling, natural or mineral pool takes your fancy. When you’ve had enough, sweat it out in the sauna for a while, or visit the attendants’ station and sign up for akasuri, a cleansing scrub that removes all of the dead skin from your body. If you want the complete La Qua experience, spend the extra money and head up to the Healing Baden. Here you can unwind in a variety of nature-themed rooms set at different temperatures – breathe in the hot, dry desert air just moments before you watch your breath condense in the Arctic room. If you really want to go the whole distance, you can spoil yourself by shelling out a few thousand yen on a full body massage. At La Qua you can choose from toe-stepping Thai massage, deep tissue Swedish massage or the obligatory Japanese-style shiatsu massage. If you start to get hungry, reunite with your friends of the opposite sex on the rendezvous floor, and recharge in any of the inviting bars and restaurants. After eating and drinking your fill, grab a seat in the massage chair lounge, turn on your personal TV and fully give in to the food coma. Bliss! (For a quick primer on the proper onsen etiquette, see the boxed text, p193.)

KAGURAZAKA Map p56 ␹ᭉဈ bTōzai Line or Yūrakuchō Line to Iidabashi (exit B3) Kagurazaka is worth a visit more for an atmospheric stroll than for any particular sights. Its intimate kakurenbo yokochō (hideand-seek alleys) recall bygone days of Edo, or a city like Kyoto which wears its history on its sleeve. But this is Tokyo, which means that the denizens of the nearby government and business districts come to broker their power, and deals are being made behind the wooden façades and slid-

ing gates of the expensive restaurants and nightspots. From Sotobori-dōri, head up Kagurazaka Hill and turn right at Royal Host restaurant. The back alleys will be on your left in a few blocks.

RIKUGI-EN (RIKUGI GARDEN) Map pp48–9

౐⟵࿦ %3941-2222; 6-16-3 Hon-Komagome; admission ¥300; h9am-5pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Komagome, south exit This fine garden has landscaped views unfolding at every turn of the pathways that crisscross the grounds. The garden is rich in literary associations: its name is taken from the six principles of waka poetry (31-syllable poems), and the landscaping invokes famous scenes from Chinese and Japanese literature.

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KABUKI-ZA (KABUKI THEATRE) Map p62 ᱌⥰પᐳ %3541-3131; www.shochiku.co.jp/play/kabukiza /theater/index.html; 4-12-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku; bHibiya or Toei Asakusa Line to Higashi-Ginza (exit 3) Located along the eastern end of Harumidōri is this famed kabuki theatre – even if you don’t plan on attending a performance, it’s worth stopping by for a quick look. Reconstructed in the 1950s, the building remains true to its 1920s fusion of Western and Japanese architecture. If you do plan on sitting in on a few acts, keep in mind that it’s OK to bring your lunch and something to sip on. See p176 for information on shows.

SONY BUILDING Map p62 ࠰࠾࡯ࡆ࡞ %3573-2371; Sukiyabashi Crossing; admission free; h11am-7pm; bMarunouchi, Ginza or Hibiya Line to Ginza (exit B9) Right on Sukiyabashi Crossing is the Sony Building, which attracts gadget hounds in search of gizmos that have yet to be re-

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leased. Kids love the free Playstation games on the 6th floor, while adults tend to lose an hour or so perusing all the latest audio and video accessories. If nothing else, you can put your feet up and relax for a while in one of the building’s two Hi-Vision theatres.

HIBIYA-KŌEN (HIBIYA PARK) Map p62 ᣣᲧ⼱౏࿦ Admission free; bChiyoda, Hibiya or Toei Mita Line to Hibiya (exits A5 & A13) Built around the turn of the 20th century at the height of Meiji Restoration, this

TRANSPORT: GINZA Train The JR Yamanote Line stops at Shimbashi Station, which borders Ginza to the west. From the station, it’s a five- to 10-minute walk to reach central Ginza. Metro The Ginza and Marunouchi Lines are the best way to get to Ginza, which is centred on the aptly named Ginza Station.

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NEIGHBOURHOODS GINZA

NEIGHBOURHOODS CENTRAL TOKYO

Eating p158; Shopping p136; Sleeping p205 Proudly reigning alongside 5th Avenue, Beverly Hills and the Champs-Elysées, Ginza is one of the most famous upmarket shopping districts in the world. Lined with brand-name shops and luxury boutiques, Ginza is as much a destination as it is a lifestyle. While Tokyo’s hordes of salarymen slave away at the office, their wives shop till they drop, feeding millions upon millions of yen into the Japanese consumerist machine. There are clusters of department stores throughout Tokyo, but Ginza’s have long been the leaders. The department stores here are shopping extravaganzas, to be sure, but they’re so much more: highlights include traditional Japanese products and kimono displayed as if in art galleries, in-store art galleries that actually are art galleries of current up-and-coming artists, and wildly bustling food floors called depachika (p171). Tokyoites sometimes point out that Ginza has lost a bit of its glamour over the past few years, particularly since Aoyama, Ebisu and Daikanyama have become increasingly trendy. However, Ginza, or the ‘silver mint’, is still where Tokyoites determined to shop often begin their mission. The neighbourhood also remains the shopping mecca for Japanese tourists visiting from the countryside. Since it was one of the first areas of Tokyo to modernise during the Meiji Restoration, Ginza has a European air that is atypical of urban Japan. With brick buildings, wide boulevards, treelined streets, gas street lamps and other past emblems of Western modernity, Ginza is indeed a rarity in the urban jungle of Tokyo. Even if you’re not out to empty the wallet and get your shopping fix, Ginza is still perfect for a leisurely stroll or for lingering over a cup of coffee. On Sundays Ginza is at its best when the district closes to motor vehicles, allowing the lively alleyways and lanes to come alive with pedestrians. Ginza is bounded to the north by the Imperial Palace and the commercial district of Marunouchi. To the east and south are Tsukiji and Shiodome, where you’ll find fish and grocery markets alongside soaring skyscrapers. Ginza itself, almost completely encircled by the Shuto Expressway, is about as grid-like as Tokyo gets. Within these confines, the neat rows of squares make for easy navigation through the boutiques, galleries and cafés.

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and Okumura Togyū (1889–1990), whose Cherry Blossoms at Daigoji Temple is a masterpiece in pastel colours. The museum is located on the ground floor of the KS Building.

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leafy park just west of Ginza was Tokyo’s first Western-style park. At the time, Western design was the height of fashion, and it doesn’t take long to notice the similarities to public spaces in London, Paris and New York. If you’re in need of a break on a quiet afternoon, find your way to one of the two ponds for a cup of tea at a pavilion.

GALLERY KOYANAGI Map p62 ࠡࡖ࡜࡝࡯ዊᩉ %3561-1896; www.gallerykoyanagi.com; 8th fl, 1-7-5 Ginza; admission free; h11am-7pm Tue-Sat; bGinza, Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exit A9), or Yūrakuchō Line to Ginza-itchōme (exit 7) This gallery exhibits photography and prints in a space conspicuously set off by blinding white light. The staff speaks fluent English and is willing to talk about the work on the walls, which includes some of the leading artists of Japan and abroad, like Sugimoto Hiroshi and Marlene Dumas. Enter around the rear of the building housing the White Bell jewellery shop on Chūō-dōri.

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INFORMATION American Express ࠕࡔ࡝ࠞࡦࠛࠠࠬࡊ࡟ࠬ............ 1 B1 Citibank ࠪ࠹ࠖࡃࡦࠢ...................... 2 B2 Ginza Post Office ㌁ᐳㇷଢዪ ......... 3 B3 Kyōbashi Post Office ੩ᯅㇷଢዪ .. 4 C3 St Luke's International Hospital ⡛〝ട࿖㓙∛㒮...............................5 D3 Tourist Information Center ᧲੩੤ㅢળ㙚.................................... 6 B1

SHOPPING (pp135–48) Hakuhinkan Toy Park ඳຠ㙚 ......14 B3 Hayashi Kimono ᨋ߈߽ߩ .......... 15 A2 Itōya દ᧲ደ ......................................16 C2 Matsuya ᧻ደ ....................................17 B2 Matsuzakaya ᧻ဈደ.......................18 B2 Mitsukoshi ਃ⿧ ...............................19 B2 Muji ήශ⦟ຠ...................................20 B1 Seibu ⷏ᱞ..........................................21 B2 Takumi ߚߊߺ................................. 22 A3

SIGHTS (pp61–3) Gallery Koyanagi ࠡࡖ࡜࡝࡯ዊᩉ 7 C1 Ghibli Museum...................................... 8 C2 Hachiman-jinja (Hachiman Temple) ౎ᐈ␹␠............................ 9 A3 Kabuki-za (Kabuki Theatre) ᱌⥰પᐳ ........................................(see 30) Shiseido Art House ⾗↢ၴࠕ࡯࠻ࡂ࠙ࠬ ...................10 B2 Shiseido Gallery ⾗↢ၴࠡࡖ࡜࡝࡯ ........................11 B3 Sony Building ࠰࠾࡯ࡆ࡞ .............12 B2 Tokyo Gallery ᧲੩↹ᑈ...................13 B3

EATING (pp149–74) Birdland ࡃ࡯࠼࡜ࡦ࠼ .................23 B2 Kyūbei ਭ౓ⴡ ...............................(see 11) L'Osier ࡟ࠬ࠻࡜ࡦࡠࠝࠫࠚ ......24 B2 Matsuya ᧻ደ .................................(see 17) Miravile Impact ࡒ࡜ࡧࠖ࡞ ࠗࡦࡄࠢ࠻........25 C2 Mitsukoshi ਃ⿧ ............................(see 19) Nair's ࠽ࠗ࡞ .....................................26 C2 Nataraj ࠽࠲࡜ࠫ ............................ (see 2) Sakata ߐ߆↰ ...................................27 C1 Ten-Ichi ᄤ৻ .....................................28 B2 Yūrakuchō Yakitori Alley ᦭ᭉ↸὾߈㠽ᮮৼ......................29 B2

ENTERTAINMENT (pp175–90) Kabuki-za (Kabuki Theatre) ᱌⥰પᐳ .........................................30 C3 Takarazuka Gekijō ᧲੩ቲႦ഍႐ .............................. 31 A2 DRINKING (pp175–90) Aux Amis des Vins ࠝࠩࡒ·࠺·ࡧࠔࡦ.........................32 C2 Lion Beer Hall ࡜ࠗࠝࡦࡆࠕࡎ࡯࡞ .................33 B3 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191–200) Konparu-yu Onsen ߎࠎ߬ࠆḡ(see 11) Ōi Keibajō ...........................................34 B2 SLEEPING (pp201–16) Ginza Nikkō Hotel ㌁ᐳᣣ⥶ࡎ࠹࡞.......................... 35 A3 Hotel Seiyō Ginza ࡎ࠹࡞⷏ᵗ㌁ᐳ...........................36 C1 Imperial Hotel Ꮲ࿖ࡎ࠹࡞.......... 37 A2 Mercure Hotel Ginza Tokyo ࡔ࡞ࠠࡘ࡯࡞ࡎ࠹࡞㌁ᐳ........38 C2 Mitsui Urban Hotel Ginza ਃ੗ࠕ࡯ࡃࡦࡎ࠹࡞㌁ᐳ....... 39 A3

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Tsukiji ▽࿾

SHISEIDO ART HOUSE Map p62 ⾗↢ၴࠕ࡯࠻ࡂ࠙ࠬ %3571-0401; www.shiseido.co.jp/house-of -shiseido; 7-5-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku; admission free; h11am-7pm Tue-Sun; bJR Yamanote Line to Shimbashi (Ginza exit) or Toei Asakusa Line to Shimbashi (exits 1 & 3) Underwritten by the cosmetics giant Shiseido, this space is also a classic Ginza concoction: soft-sell corporate promo. Most will be drawn by the alluring, wonderfully displayed themed exhibitions (past ones have included speciality handbags and cosmetics for men), and along the way you might find yourself distracted by advertising icons of the history of Shiseido.

the house thereof. The result is an everchanging selection, particularly of installation pieces, which lend themselves well to the high-ceilinged space. With a history dating back to 1919, it’s also one of the oldest galleries in the area.

places of worship elsewhere (or relocated them to the rooftops of Ginza’s temples of commerce). Near Shimbashi Station, this is one shrine that remains at street level, a feat that was achieved by building over the top of it.

HACHIMAN-JINJA (HACHIMAN TEMPLE) Map p62

TOKYO GALLERY Map p62

౎ᐈ␹␠ 7-4 Ginza; admission free; bJR Yamanote Line to Shimbashi (Ginza exit) or Toei Asakusa Line to Shimbashi (exits 1 & 3) It’s so small that you might stroll past and not notice it – which is exactly what makes Hachiman-jinja worth pausing for. Realestate values in Ginza have generally forced

᧲੩↹ᑈ %3571-1808; 8-6-18 Ginza; admission free; bGinza Line to Shimbashi (exit 1) One of our favourite small galleries, the Tokyo Gallery collaborates with a large studio in Beijing, and shows challenging, often politically pointed works by Japanese and Chinese artists. The staff speaks English and is very friendly.

SHISEIDO GALLERY Map p62 ⾗↢ၴࠡࡖ࡜࡝࡯ %3572-3901; www.shiseido.co.jp/e/gallery/html; 8-8-3 Ginza, Chūō-ku; admission free; h11am7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; bJR Yamanote Line to Shimbashi (Ginza exit) or Toei Asakusa Line to Shimbashi (exits 1 & 3) This gallery in the basement of Shiseido’s Ginza boutique is more experimental than

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Nakagin Capsule Tower ...................................... 2 Namiyoke-jinja ᵄ㒰␹␠ .................................3 Tsukiji Central Fish Market ▽࿾Ꮢ႐ ..........4 Tsukiji Outer Market ႐ᄖᏒ႐.......................5

Ky¥Shibariky¥ Onshi-teien ᣥ⦼㔌ችᕲ⾦ᐸ࿦

EATING (pp149–74) Daiwa Sushi ᄢ๺ኼม .......................................6 C2 Din Tai Fung 㥊ᵏ⽃ ...........................................7 B1 Edogin ᳯᚭ㌁.......................................................8 C1 Yappari Tako ߿ߞ߬ࠅߚߎ .......................(see 1)

Takeshiba Takeshiba Ferry Terminal

Tokyo Bay Hinode

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To Izu Islands (112km); Ogasawara Islands (1000km)

the market is not as odoriferous as you might think, you still don’t want to wear your nicest clothing (and especially not your best shoes). Tradition has it that you should finish your visit here with a sushi breakfast. Daiwa Sushi (p160) is within the market itself and gathers long, long queues. Between the Central Fish Market and the Outer Market (see right) is Namiyoke-jinja, the Shintō shrine where wholesalers and middlemen come to pray before work. Highlights are the giant gold parade masks used for the lion dance and the dragon-shaped taps over the purification basins. If you have arrived too late to see the fish auctions, or maybe you just can’t stand the thought of dead sea creatures,

SLEEPING (pp201–16) Conrad Hotel ࠦࡦ࡜࠶࠼ࡎ࠹࡞ .............. 9 B2 Hotel Villa Fontaine Shiodome ࡎ࠹࡞ࡧࠖ࡜ࡈࠜࡦ࠹࡯࠿᳤⇐....10 A2 TRANSPORT (pp237–44) Water Bus Pier ᳓਄ࡃࠬਸ਼ࠅ႐ ...............11 C2

we can almost guarantee you will find something of interest in Tsukiji’s Outer Market. With that said, if you hate food in general, well, there is not much we can do to help you. The Outer Market is neither as famous nor as breathtakingly busy as its inner counterpart. But that is usually a blessing, given that it allows you the time you need to browse all kinds of seafood (naturally) and produce, noodle shops, tiny cafés and cooking supply shops. In addition, you’ll also find boots, baubles, baskets, plates, picks (of the tooth variety) and pottery, all at reasonable prices. It can be quite an education to see how those Japanese foods you’ve always loved are actually made, and to learn what all those tiny bowls and plates are used for. In

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NEIGHBOURHOODS TSUKIJI & SHIODOME

Train Shimbashi Station (JR and subway lines) is the transit hub for Shiodome. Shimbashi is also the terminus for the Yurikamome Line for Odaiba. Metro The best way to reach Tsukiji fish market is to take either the Hibiya Line to Tsukiji Station, or the Toei Ōedo Line to nearby Tsukijishijō. Waterbus Sumida-gawa (Sumida River) water taxis stop at the pier on the east end of Hama Rikyū Onshi-teien (Detached Palace Garden; Map p65). Destinations include Asakusa and Odaiba.

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If it lives in the sea, it’s probably for sale in the Central Fish Market, where acres and acres of fish and fish products change hands in a lively, almost chaotic atmosphere. Everything is allotted its own area, and a quick scan of the loading docks will reveal mountains of octopus, rows of giant tuna, endless varieties of shellfish and tank upon tank of live exotic fish. About 2246 tonnes of fish, worth over 1.8 billion yen (US$15.5 million), are sold here daily; that’s 615,409 tonnes of fish worth some US$4.25 billion a year. It’s not unheard of for a single tuna to fetch an incredible ¥20 million! The auctions are not officially open to the general public, but if you are of a mind to go (trust us – it’s worth it!), you have to be there around 5am to see the action. Afterwards, you are free to visit the wholesalers market, and wander

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▽࿾Ꮢ႐ www.tsukiji-market.or.jp; admission free; hearly morning, closed 2nd & 4th Wed of most months, Sun & public holidays; bToei Ōedo Line to Tsukijishijō (exit A1) or Hibiya Line to Tsukiji (exit 1 or 2)

around the seemingly endless rows of fishmongers. The stalls are set up to sell directly to restaurants, retail stores and other commercial enterprises. In fact, some of the hundreds of merchants have been here for more than 20 generations! The hustle and bustle can be intoxicating, and as long as you’re there before 8am, some kind of push and pull will doubtless be going on. Keep in mind, however, that the market shuts completely by 1pm for cleaning. Although

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Eating p160; Sleeping p206 An early morning visit to the Tsukiji fish market (below), arguably Tokyo’s top attraction, will awaken all your senses. From the sights and sounds of fresh tuna being sliced up with samurai-like precision to the smells and tastes of a sushi breakfast so fresh it still wriggles in your mouth, Tsukiji is a world unto itself. Since most of the action takes place between the hours of 5am and 8am, you’re either going to have to set the alarm clock for the wee hours of the morn or alternatively party all night long in the nearby pleasure district of Roppongi (p94). Prior to 1923, the city’s fish market was ensconced in Nihombashi as it had been throughout the Edo era. Of course the whole place smelled, well, fishy, and the market’s well-off neighbours had grown weary of looking at its ugly façade. Fortunately for them (not so much for others), they got a reprieve when the deadly Great Kantō Earthquake flattened it. Though some of the more stubborn stall-keepers insisted on returning to the old location, the market was officially moved to the old naval lands at Tsukiji, where it is now the world’s largest fish market. But not for much longer; the market is scheduled to move east to the Toyosu neighbourhood, east of the Sumida-gawa (Sumida River), in 2012. To see what the neighbourhood will look like once the move is complete, look just a little south. Here you’ll find the skyscrapers of Shiodome business district – pretty much all the construction you see here has been done in the new millennium. The markets of Tsukiji rest on the banks of the Sumida-gawa (Sumida River) on what were once old naval lands. Heading away from Tsukiji to the northwest on foot via Hanatsubaki-dōri will land you on the west end of Ginza, while walking just a few minutes to the southwest will bring you to the gates of Hama Rikyū Onshi-teien, one of Tokyo’s most expansive gardens. Shiodome is the cluster of tall buildings on the other side of the Shuto Expressway. Although this largely residential and commercial district doesn’t attract as many tourists as the surrounding areas, it is home to one of the city’s most appealing skylines.

TSUKIJI CENTRAL FISH MARKET

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T SU K I J I & S H I O D O M E

HAMA RIKYŪ ONSHI-TEIEN (DETACHED PALACE GARDEN) Map p65 ᵿ㔌ችᐸ࿦ %3541-0200; adult/senior ¥300/150; h9am5pm; bToei Ōedo Line to Shiodome (A2 or A3 exit) or Tsukijishijō (exit A2) Once a shōgunal palace extending into the area now occupied by the fish market, this traditional Japanese garden is one of Tokyo’s finest. The Detached Palace Garden features a large duck pond with an island that’s home to a charming tea pavilion, as well as some wonderfully manicured trees (black pine, Japanese apricot, hydrangeas, camellias etc), some of which are hundreds of years old. Besides visiting the park as a side trip from Ginza or Tsukiji, consider ar-

riving by boat from Asakusa via the Sumidagawa cruise aboard the Suijō Bus (p87).

ADVERTISING MUSEUM TOKYO Map p65

ࠕ࠼࡮ࡒࡘ࡯ࠫࠕࡓ᧲੩ %6218-2500; www.admt.jp; B1 fl, 1-8-2 Higashi Shimbashi, Minato-ku; admission free; h11am6.30pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4.30pm Sat & public holidays; bGinza, Toei Asakusa or JR Yamanote Line to Shimbashi (Shiodome Shio-site exit or exit A3) Dentsu, Japan’s largest advertising agency, operates this rather extensive museum of Japanese ads in the basement of the Caretta building. The collection covers wood-block printed handbills from the Edo period through sumptuous Art Nouveau and Art Deco Meiji- and Taisho-era works to the best of today. Although there’s not a lot of English signage, the strong graphics of many of the ads stand alone, and there’s a video room where you can watch awardwinning TV commercials from around the world.

AK I HABAR A & K AN DA

AKIHABARA ELECTRIC TOWN Map p68

⑺⪲ේ㔚᳇ⴝ Denki-gai; west of JR Akihabara; bJR Yamanote or JR Sōbu Line to Akihabara (Denki-gai exit) What the Tsukiji Central Fish Market is to the food trade, Akihabara is to Japan’s legendary electronics industry: bustling, busy and fun to watch. Bonus: you don’t have to get up early in the morning to catch the action (afternoon is prime time). Big box retailers (Ishimaru Denki, Laox, Onoden, Satō Musen and Yamagiwa among them), wholesale shops and tiny stalls all compete to sell you everything from big appliances to microscopic components, robots, mouse pads and next year’s computers, some at a steep discount from prices on the outside. Some items are intended for export (make sure the voltage and plugs match what you use at home), others are just coming onto the market, so even if you have no intention of shopping now, it’s worth a peek to see what you may be buying two years hence. Akihabara can no longer claim exclusive rights to the title of the city’s electronics centre (thanks to increased competition from denser hubs like Shinjuku and

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Ikebukuro), yet it is still quite the scene. As the electronics business has moved elsewhere (and competition has come in from – gasp! – Korea, China and Taiwan), Akihabara has turned to the boom market in cartoon manga (comics), often pornographic, to round out its fiscal activity.If you like your pornography of the PG-13 variety, don’t miss the opportunity to have a cup of coffee and a pastry in any of Akihabara’s wholly unique Maid Cafés (see p161).

TRANSPORT: AKIHABARA & KANDA Train The JR Yamanote and Keihin-Tōhoku Lines both stop at Akihabara and Kanda. Akihabara is also served by the JR Sōbu Line, which runs from east to west across Central Tokyo. Metro Since the Hibiya Line stops a bit east of the main electronics neighbourhood, the JR is more convenient. For Kanda, the Marunouchi Line stops at Awajichō, close to the traditional restaurant neighbourhood. To get to Jimbōchō, take either the Toei Shinjuku or the Hanzōmon Lines to Jimbōchō Station.

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NEIGHBOURHOODS TSUKIJI & SHIODOME

Eating p160; Sleeping p207 Akihabara is just as much Tokyo’s centre for electronics as it is for otaku (geek) culture. From multistoreyed computer stores and back-alley discount camera shops to anime cafés and the latest in geek fashions, Akihabara is one of Tokyo’s most bizarre districts. Indeed, for many years Akihabara was off the radar screen for most foreign visitors, aside from a few in-the-know tourists looking to score some cheap electronics. However, following the rapidly increasing global popularity of anime, otaku culture and all things Japanese, a visit to Akihabara is becoming something of a Tokyo staple. With its street touts hawking cheap goods, electronic bells ringing with inimitable sound and fury, geeks of all ages decked out in anime garb, and a frenetic street scene of lights, beeps and endless pedestrian traffic, Akihabara can quickly overwhelm the senses. Of course part of the reason why you are in Akihabara is to stand at the ground zero of geekdom, though you can always manage to find respite in the neighbouring commercial and residential district of Kanda. During the Edo period, the vibrant green banks of the Kanda-gawa were famously depicted in wood-block prints. Streets in the neighbourhood were lined with artisans’ shops, and a residential district served as a rowdy, overcrowded home to workers and craftsmen. These days, however, Kanda’s vital spirit has been channelled by the thousands of students who inhabit Ochanomizu, the area that lies north of Kanda proper. Nihon University and Meiji University, two of Japan’s most prestigious private universities, are located nearby, and a couple of enclaves cater to them with clusters of shops as in days of old. Akihabara and Kanda lie firmly within the bounds of Yamanote, between the Imperial Palace and Marunouchi to the west and Ueno to the east. Electric Town is to the west of Akihabara Station, while Kanda is west of the grounds of the Imperial Palace.

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short, the Tsukiji Outer Market is a one-stop shop for anything you need to prepare and serve that next great Japanese meal. Be sure to first check your country’s import restrictions if you plan to take any food products home with you.

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␹↰᣿␹ %3254-0753; www.kandamyoujin.or.jp; 2-16-2 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku; admission free; bMarunouchi Line to Ochanomizu (exit 2) Hidden behind the main streets, this littleknown but quite splendid Shintō shrine boasts vermillion-coloured halls surrounding a stately courtyard. It traces its history back to AD 730, though its present location dates from 1616. The kami (gods) enshrined here are said to bring luck in business and in finding a spouse. It is the home shrine of the Kanda Matsuri (Kanda Festival; p18) in mid-May, one of the largest festivals in Tokyo.

TOKYO ANIME CENTER Map p68

IwamotochŸ

IwamotochŸ ጤᧄ↸

See Sumida River Map p126

-dŸri

KodemmachŸ ዊવ㚍↸

Shin-nihombashi

See Imperial Palace & Marunouchi Map pp52–3

Nihombashi ᣣᧄᯅ

±temachi

Higashi-gyoen (Imperial Palace East Garden)

±temachi

Eitai-

dŸri

Mitsukoshimae

TOKYO WONDER SITE Map p68

AKIHABARA & KANDA INFORMATION Bank of Tokyo-Mitsubishi UFJ ᧲੩ਃ⪉㌁ⴕ.......................................1 C2 Kanda Post Office ␹↰ㇷଢዪ .........2 C2

(pp67–9)

Akihabara Electric Town ⑺⪲ේ㔚᳇ⴝ ......................................3 Ishimaru Denki ⍹ਣ㔚᳇....................4 Kanda Myōjin (Kanda Shrine) ␹↰᣿␹ ...............................................5 Nicholai Cathedral ࠾ࠦ࡜ࠗၴ .......6 Onoden ࠝࡁ࠺ࡦ..................................7 Satō Musen ࠨ࠻࠙ࡓ࠮ࡦ ................8 Tokyo Anime Center ᧲੩ࠕ࠾ࡔ࠮ࡦ࠲࡯...................... 9 Tokyo Wonder Site ࠻࡯࡚ࠠ࡯ࡢࡦ࠳࡯ࠨࠗ࠻ .....10 Yamagiwa ࡗࡑࠡࡢ ..........................11

C2 C2 C1 B2 C2 C2

Yamagiwa ࡗࡑࠡࡢ.......................... 12 C2 Yushima Seidō (Yushima Shrine) ḡፉ⡛ၴ............................................. 13 B2

SHOPPING

(pp135–48)

Akihabara Radio Center ⑺⪲ේ࡜ࠫࠝ࠮ࡦ࠲࡯............... 14 C2 Disk Union ࠺࡙ࠖࠬࠢ࠾ࠝࡦ..........................15 A2 Issei-dō ৻⺈ၴ.....................................16 A2 Kayōdō Hobby Lobby ᶏᵗၴࡎࡆ࡯ࡠࡆ࡯....................(see 7) Laox ࡜ࠝ࠶ࠢࠬ................................. 17 C2 Tsukumo Robotto Ōkoku ࠷ࠢࡕ ࡠࡏ࠶࠻₺࿖................................... 18 C2

C2

EATING A1 C2

(pp149–74)

@Home Café.......................................... 19 C2 Botan ߷ߚࠎ ........................................ 20 C2

Isegen ޿ߖḮ....................................... 21 Kanda Yabu Soba ␹↰߿߱ߘ߫. 22 Marugo Tonkatsu ߣࠎ߆ߟਣ੖...................................23 Matsuya ᧻ደ........................................ 24

C2 C2 C2 C2

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191–200) Chiyoda Sogo Taikukan Pool ࡉ࡝࠵ࠬ࠻ࡦ⟤ⴚ㙚.................... 25 C4

SLEEPING

࠻࡯࡚ࠠ࡯ࡢࡦ࠳࡯ࠨࠗ࠻ %5689-5531; www.tokyo-ws.org in Japanese; 24-16 Hongo, Bunkyō-ku; admission free; h11am7pm Tue-Sun; bJR Sōbu Line to Ochanomizu or Suidōbashi Operated by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government, Tokyo Wonder Site comprises

three floors of galleries with the aim of promoting new and emerging artists. There is a regularly changing programme of exhibitions, competitions and lectures in media ranging from painting to video art.

NICHOLAI CATHEDRAL Map p68 ࠾ࠦ࡜ࠗၴ %3295-6879; [email protected]; 4-1 Surugadai, Kanda, Chiyoda-ku; donation ¥300; h1-4pm Tue-Fri AprSep, 1-3.30pm Tue-Fri Oct-Mar; bChiyoda Line to Shin-Ochanomizu (exit C12) This Russian Orthodox cathedral is named for St Nicholai of Japan (1836–1912), who first arrived as chaplain of the Russian consulate in the port city of Hakodate (Hokkaidō) and through missionary work soon amassed about 30,000 faithful. The Tokyo building, complete with a distinctive onion dome, was first constructed in 1891. The original copper dome was, like parts of so many grand buildings, damaged in the 1923 earthquake, forcing the church to downsize to the (still enormous) dome that’s now in place. If you’re interested in attending worship services, inquire inside for times.

YUSHIMA SEIDŌ (YUSHIMA SHRINE) Map p68

ḡፉ⡛ၴ %3251-4606; 1-4-25 Yushima, Bunkyō-ku; admission free; h9.30am-5pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-5pm Oct-Mar; bMarunouchi Line to Ochanomizu (exit 2) Established in 1632 and later used as a school for the sons of the powerful during the Tokugawa regime, Yushima Seidō is one of Tokyo’s few Confucian shrines. There is a Ming dynasty bronze statue of Confucius in its black-lacquered main hall, which was rebuilt in 1935. The sculpture is visible only from 1 to 4 January and the fourth Sunday in April, but you can turn up at weekends and holidays for a chance to see the building’s interior.

(pp201–16)

Hotel My Stays Ochanomizu ࡎ࠹࡞ࡑࠗࠬ࠹ࠗ࠭ᓮ⨥ࡁ᳓ 26 New Central Hotel ࠾ࡘ࡯࠮ࡦ࠻࡜࡞ࡎ࠹࡞.......... 27 Presso Inn Kanda ࡊ࡟࠶࠰ࠗࡦ␹↰......................... 28 Yama-no-Ue (Hilltop) Hotel ጊߩ਄ࡎ࠹࡞................................... 29

B2 C3 C3 B2

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NEIGHBOURHOODS AKIHABARA & KANDA

1

ri

a 25

KodemmachŸ

o yN

Ÿ-dŸ

5

±temachi ᄢᚻ↸

UchiKanda ౝ␹↰ Nihom bashi -gaw

Ch¥

Exp wy

xpw to E

to

Takebashi

Shu

Sh u

᧲੩ࠕ࠾ࡔ࠮ࡦ࠲࡯ %5298-1188; www.animecenter.jp; 4th fl, Akihabara UDX Bldg, 4-14-1 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku; admission free; h11am-7pm; bJR Yamanote or JR Sōbu Line to Akihabara (Electric Town or Denkigai exit) The recently opened Tokyo Anime Center is less a museum than a place for promoting the latest and greatest in the world of anime (animation) and its merchandising. Facilities include exhibit halls, a shop and a theatre for cinematic screenings of anime as well as appearances by voice actors and anime creators (some 200 events annually). Although it is still something of a work in progress, displays are planned to be in four languages, including English.

JR Kanda

No

NEIGHBOURHOODS AKIHABARA & KANDA

Chiyoda-ku ජઍ↰඙

68

Map p68

21

24 Sporting Goods 20 Neighbourhood ࠬࡐ࡯࠷↪ౕᐫⴝ AwajichŸ

㕏࿖ㅢࠅ Ogawamachi Yasukuni-dŸri 28 KandaKanda tachŸ ␹↰ᄙ↸ KandaNishikichŸ 27 ␹↰㍪↸

Suzuran-dŸri

SIGHTS

KANDA MYŌJIN (KANDA SHRINE)

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AKIHABARA & KANDA

TOKYO FOR CHILDREN

Eating p161; Sleeping p207 Forming part of the historic core of Shitamachi, Ueno has always proudly thumbed its nose at the high fashions and fickle trends of the high-class districts in Yamanote. Although rising real estate prices and recent gentrification have erased most vestiges of the old atmosphere, Ueno’s Ameyoko Arcade, which was once the site of the largest post-war black market, still holds true to its proud roots. Here you’ll find fishmongers, fruit and vegetable sellers, knockoff clothing vendors and a healthy smattering of open-air markets, all of which sell products that are more or less legit. Historically, Ueno Hill was famous as being the site of a last-ditch defence of the Tokugawa shōgunate by an estimated 2000 loyalists in 1868. Devoted to preventing the restoration of the emperor, these adherents stationed themselves at Kanei-ji, a grand temple compound located up on the hill. They were duly dispatched by the imperial army, which prompted the subsequent Meiji government to decree that Ueno Hill would become one of Tokyo’s first parklands. Today, Ueno-kōen is the neighbourhood’s foremost attraction and one of Tokyo’s most famous leafy retreats. Boasting a wealth of museums, shrines, a kid-friendly zoo, some phenomenal cherry-blossom viewing (p20) and the hallowed precincts of Tokyo University (Japan’s most prestigious institution of higher learning), Ueno Park for an afternoon is the perfect antidote to the urban grind. The sprawling Ueno Station is the nexus of the neighbourhood, with the greater Asakusa area to the east and Akihabara and Kanda to the south. In Ueno itself, all things lead to the park with its myriad art museums; to get here, take the Ueno-kōen (Ueno Park) exit from Ueno Station.

ࠕࡔࡗᮮ↸ h10am-8pm; bYamanote Line to Okachimachi (north exit) or Ueno (south exit), or Ginza Line to Ueno Hirokōji or Hibiya Line to Naka-Okachimachi (both exit A5) This unabashed shopping street is one of the few areas in which some of the rough readiness of old Shitamachi still lingers. Step into this alley paralleling the JR Yamanote Line tracks south of JR Ueno Station, and ritzy, glitzy Tokyo may seem like a distant memory. Ameyoko earned its notoriety as a famous black-market district in the years following WWII, though today it’s primarily a bargain shopping area. Simple shops spill out into the alleys, selling block after block of cheap clothing (for Japan, anyway), produce, dried fruit, dried nori (seaweed), dried mushrooms and dried squid. Some of the same tourist items on sale in Ginza sell here at more reasonable rates. Shopkeepers also stand on less ceremony than those in other shopping areas in Tokyo, brazenly hawking their goods with guttural cries to the passing crowds. In the Ameyoko Center building, Chinese, Korean and Southeast Asian mer-

70

chants have set up their own shopping arcade where you’ll find exotic cooking spices, fresh seafood, durian fruit and other unusual imported items.

UENO-KŌEN (UENO PARK) Map p72

਄㊁౏࿦ %3828-5644; admission free; h5am-11pm; bJR Yamanote Line or Tokyo Metro Ginza or Hibiya Line to Ueno (Ueno Kōen exit) Tokyo’s oldest public park has several names: its Sunday name, which no-one ever uses, is Ueno Onshi Kōen; some locals dub it Ueno no Oyama (Ueno Mountain); and English speakers call it Ueno Park.

TRANSPORT: UENO Train The JR Yamanote Line terminates at Ueno Station and is the best transport option for reaching Ameyoko. The private Keisei Line also terminates here, and has cheap connections to Narita Airport. Metro The Hibiya and Ginza Lines connect with Ueno Station and let you off near the park. If you’re heading to Tokyo University or Yushima Tenjin, take the Chiyoda Line to Yushima.

Tokyo deliberately cultivates spaces for children. Parks, museums and other venues are designed with wee ones in mind. And, even on a limited budget, you’ll find things here reasonably priced and accessible. The following should get you started: Fune No Kagaku-kan (Museum of Maritime Science; p131) Filled with detailed model ships, hands-on displays and a cool pool for piloting remote-control submarines. Ikebukuro Bōsai-kan (Ikebukukuro Earthquake Hall; p123) Younger children may be rattled, literally, by the simulations of earthquakes and fires, but it’s important preparation for older kids. Kodomo-no-Shiro (National Children’s Castle; Map p110; www.kodomono-shiro.jp/english/index.html; adult/child over 3 ¥500/400; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya, east exit, or Ginza Line to Omote-sandō, B2 exit) Has playrooms, puppet theatres, a swimming pool and a music lobby where kids can make all the noise they like. The Children’s Castle Hotel (p213) next door was built especially for those with young children and can be a convenient refuge for travelling families. It’s located off Aoyama-dōri. Meguro Parasitological Museum (p103) This museum is ideal for kids who like big worms and other scary bugs. Miraikan (National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation; p130) Offers interactive exhibits where kids can manipulate robots and micromachines, and explore the principles of superconductivity. Mori Art Museum (p95) This is a dramatic place to introduce kids to contemporary art. If they weary of the exhibits, excellent views await on the 52nd-floor observation decks. Tokyo Disney Resort (www.tokyodisneyresort.co.jp/index_e.html; 1-day pass adult/child 12-17/child 4-11 yr ¥5800/5000/3900, 2-day pass adult/child 12-17/child 4-11 yr ¥10,000/8800/6900; bJR Keiyo Line to Maihama) The world’s most successful theme park is home to kid-friendly Tokyo Disneyland as well as the more adult-oriented Tokyo DisneySea. Tokyo-to Jido Kaikan(Tokyo Metropolitan Children’s Hall; Map p106; %3409-6361; www.fukushihoken.metro .tokyo.jp/jidou/English/index.html; 1-18-24 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; admission free; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya, east exit [Miyamasuzaka]) Boasts six kid-friendly storeys and a number of ingenious play areas – check out the human body maze or get messy in the hands-on art studio, where children can make pottery and origami. It’s 300m northeast of Shibuya Station, next to Mitake-kōen. Ueno Dōbutsu-en (Ueno Zoo; p71) This fairly comprehensive zoo has all the usual lions and tigers and bears. If you’ve come with little ones, the real attraction here is the goat- and sheep-filled petting zoo.

NEIGHBOURHOODS UENO

NEIGHBOURHOODS UENO

AMEYA YOKOCHŌ (AMEYOKO ARCADE) Map p72

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UENO

There are a number of amusement parks, including the oldie-but-a-goody Hanayashiki Amusement Park (Map p86; %3482-8780; www.hanayashiki.net, in Japanese; 2-28-1 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; adult/child under 5/5-12 yr ¥900/free/400, rides cost extra h10am-6pm;) the more razzle-dazzle-y Tokyo Dome City (p58), the indoor amusements and food theme-parks of Namco Namjatown (p121) and one of the world’s tallest Ferris wheels (p132) in Odaiba. Whichever you prefer, Ueno Kōen makes for a pleasant city escape. There are two entrances to the park: the main one takes you straight into the museum and art gallery area, a course that might leave you worn out before you get to Ueno’s temples. Instead, it’s better to start at the southern entrance between Ueno JR Station and Keisei Ueno Station, and do a little temple-viewing en route to the museums. From the JR Station, take the Ikenohata exit and turn right. Just around the corner is a flight of stairs leading up into the park. Situated slightly to your right at the top of the stairs is the mother of all meeting

places, a statue of Saigō Takamori. Fans of the movie The Last Samurai should note that Katsumoto, the character played by Ken Watanabe, was loosely based on Takamori, a Tokugawa loyalist who gained legendary status among the common Japanese. The Meiji government, capitalising on this fame, posthumously pardoned Takamori, and granted him full honours. Today he remains an exemplar of the samurai spirit in Japan. Continue along the way, bear to the far left and follow a wide tree-lined path until you reach Kiyōmizu Kannon-dō, modelled after the landmark Kiyōmizu-dera in Kyoto. During Ningyō-kuyō (p19) those wishing to

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500 m 0.3 miles

UENO INFORMATION

NishiNippori

NishiNippori

Arakawa-ku ⨹Ꮉ඙

25

Nippori

6

Sendagi

38

35

32

37

conceive a child leave a doll here for the Senjū Kannon (the 1000-armed Buddhist goddess of mercy), and the accumulated dolls are burnt ceremoniously each 25 September. From the temple, continue down to the narrow road that follows the pond, Shinobazu-ike. Through a red torii (gate), located on an island in the pond, is Bentendō, a memorial to Benten, a patron goddess of the arts. Behind the temple you can hire a small boat (%3828-9502; row boats per hr ¥600, paddle boats per 30min ¥600; h9am-5pm Mar-Nov) to take out on the water, weather permitting. Make your way back to the road that follows Shinobazu-ike and turn left. Where the road begins to curve and leaves Shinobazu-ike behind, there is a stair path-

ri n-dŸ sue but

਄㊁

Keisei Ueno

5

UenohirokŸji 39

3 Okachimachi

24

Kita-Ueno ർ਄㊁ See Asakusa Map p86 2

15

NakUeno a-dŸ ri

ri

Yushima ḡፉ

Aesop 14 Bridge Tokyo Bunka 4 Kaikan UENO 12 Ueno

33 28 i-dŸri mach Naka Yushima 26

23

18

Ueno-kŸen 21 (Ueno Park) ਄㊁౏࿦ 13

Shinobazu16 ike

Toei Oedo Line

Hongo-sanchŸme

7

Iriya

Ueno

Asaku sa-dŸ ri InarichŸ

Higashi-Ueno ᧲਄㊁ NakaOkachimachi ShinKasugadŸri okachimachi Tsukuba Ex press Line TaitŸ

บ᧲

way to the right. Follow this path and take the second turn to the left. This will take you into the grounds of Tōshō-gū (%38223455), which was established in 1627 (the present building dates from 1651). This is a shrine which, like its counterpart in Nikkō, was founded in memory of Tokugawa Ieyasu (p224). Inside, beyond the subdued worship hall, Ieyasu’s shrine is all black lacquerwork and gold leaf. Miraculously, the entire structure has survived all of Tokyo’s many disasters, making it one of the few early Edo structures still extant. There’s a good view of the 17th-century, five-storey pagoda Kanei-ji, now stranded inside Ueno Zoo, to your right as you take the pathway into the shrine. The pathway itself is fronted by a stone torii and lined with 200 stone

lanterns rendered as gifts by daimyō in the Edo period.

UENO DŌBUTSU-EN (UENO ZOO) Map p72

਄㊁േ‛࿦ %3828-5171; www.tokyo-www.zoo.net /english/index.html; 9-38 Ueno Kōen, Taitō-ku; adult/child/student/senior ¥600/free/200/300; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun; bJR Yamanote Line or Tokyo Metro Ginza or Hibiya Line to Ueno (Ueno Kōen exit) Japan’s oldest zoo was established in 1882, and is home to lions, tigers and bears (oh my!). This being Asia, however, most visitors head straight for the rather sweet and sleepy-looking pandas, which were a gift to Japan from the government of China. Even if you’re not normally a fan of zoos, you should know that the animals in Ueno are well cared for, and all of them live in somewhat natural habitats. Although it’s small compared to zoos in your own country, it’s larger than you’d think given the obvious space constraints of Tokyo. Plus, all of the big-name animals from around the globe are well represented here. If you’re visiting the zoo with the kids, you can take a ride on the monorail to the petting zoo, where your precious wee ones can gently run their small, sticky hands over tame domesticates such as ducks, horses and goats.

EATING

(pp149–74)

Chalet Swiss Mini ࠪࡖ࡟࡯ࠬࠗࠬࡒ࠾ .........................25 C1 Futaba ߣࠎ߆ߟ෺⪲ ........................... 26 C4 Hantei ߪࠎ੪ ............................................27 B3 Izu-ei દ⼺ᩕ.............................................. 28 C4 Sasa-no-Yuki ╣ਫ㔐 .............................. 29 D2

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

(pp191–200)

Boat Hire...................................................... 30 C4 Kōdōkan Judō Institute ⻠㆏㙚......... 31 A4 Rokuryu Ōnsen ౐┥᷷ᴰ .................... 32 C3

SLEEPING

(pp201–16)

Hotel Parkside ࡎ࠹࡞ࡄ࡯ࠢࠨࠗ࠼ ........................ 33 C4 Ryokan Katsutarō ᣏ㙚ൎᄥ㇢........... 34 C3 Ryokan Katsutarō Annex ࠕࡀ࠶ࠢࠬ ᣏ㙚ൎᄥ㇢ .............................................35 B2 Sawanoya Ryokan Ỉߩደᣏ㙚 ..........36 B2 Suigetsu Hotel Ōgai-sō ᳓᦬ࡎ࠹࡞㡑ᄖ⨿ ............ 37 C3 Suzuki Ryokan ㋈ᧁᣏ㙚...................... 38 C1 Ueno First City Hotel ਄㊁ࡈࠔ࡯ࠬ࠻ࠪ࠹ࠖࡎ࠹࡞ .... 39 C4

TOKYO KOKURITSU HAKUBUTSUKAN (TOKYO NATIONAL MUSEUM) Map p72 ᧲੩࿖┙ඳ‛㙚 %3822-1111; www.tnm.jp; 13-9 Ueno Kōen, Taitōku; adult/child ¥420/free, student free-¥130, additional charges for special exhibitions; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun; bJR Yamanote Line or Tokyo Metro Ginza or Hibiya Line to Ueno (Ueno Kōen exit) If you visit only one museum in Tokyo, make it this one. The Tokyo National Museum’s grand buildings hold the world’s largest collection of Japanese art, and you could easily spend an entire day perusing the galleries here. The building dates from 1939, and is in the imperial style, which fuses Western and Japanese architectural motifs. The museum has four galleries, the most important of which is the Honkan (Main Gallery). For an introduction to Japanese art history from Jōmon to Edo in one fell swoop, head to the 2nd floor. Other galleries include ancient pottery, religious sculpture, arms and armour, exquisite lacquerware and calligraphy. The Tōyōkan (Gallery of Eastern Antiquities) boasts a collection of art and archaeological finds from all over Asia, with an emphasis on Chinese arts and archaeology. Heiseikan (Heisei Hall) is the newest, opened in 1999 to commemorate the marriage of Crown Prince Naruhito, and it is used for exhibitions of Japanese archaeology.

73

NEIGHBOURHOODS UENO



Shinobazu-dŸ

-dŸri

30

BŸtoike

Ky¥-Iwasaki-tei Gardens Ueno-Okachimachi

Marunouchi Line

i Line

HongŸ

NEIGHBOURHOODS UENO

SuijŸdobutsuike

17

Kasuga

72

20

Monorail

HongŸ ᧄㇹ

31 KŸrakuen

19 22

Ikenohata ᳰਯ┵

Tokugawa ShŸgun Rei-en (Tokugawa 8 ShŸgun Cemetery)

9

34

Keise

Todai-mae

10

Ueno ਄㊁

27 Nezu

Uguisudani

ri -dŸ

Lin e

otoi Kot

36

Nezu

Negishi ᩮጯ

Yanaka ⼱ਛ

Hi biy a

TaitŸ-ku บ᧲඙

BunkyŸ-ku ᢥ੩඙

29

Yanaka Cemetery

Eki-mae-dŸri

Hakusan

1

11

Hon-Komagome

Kokuritsu Seiyō Bijutsukan (National Museum of Western Art) Police Box ੤⇟............................................1 C2 ࿖┙⷏ᵗ⟤ⴚ㙚................................... 14 C3 Taitō-ku Ward Office บ᧲඙ᓎᚲ............................................. 2 D4 Saigō Takamori Statue ⷏ㇹ㓉⋓㌃௝........................................ 15 C4 Tourist Information Center.....................3 C4 Shitamachi Museum Ueno-kōen Information Centre ਅ↸㘑ଶ⾗ᢱ㙚................................... 16 C4 ਄㊁౏࿦ࠗࡦࡈࠜࡔ࡯࡚ࠪࡦ  ࠮ࡦ࠲࡯.....................................................4 C3 Tokyo Daigaku (Tokyo University) ᧲੩ᄢቇ.................................................. 17 B3 SIGHTS (pp70–5) Tokyo Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan (Tokyo National Museum) Ameya Yokocho (Ameyoko Arcade) ᧲੩࿖┙ඳ‛㙚...................................18 D3 ࠕࡔᮮ࠮ࡦ࠲࡯ࡆ࡞............................ 5 C4 Ameyoko Building...................................(see 5) Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Art Asakura Chōso Museum ᧲੩ㇺ⟤ⴚ㙚........................................ 19 C3 ᦺୖᓂ႟㙚................................................6 C1 Tōshōgu ᧲ᾖች....................................... 20 C3 Benten-dō ᑯᄤၴ ......................................7 C4 Tōyōkan (Gallery of Eastern Antiquities) ᧲ᵗ㙚 ............................. 21 D3 Heiseikan ᐔᚑ㙚 ........................................8 C2 Hyōkeikan ⴫ᘮ㙚 ......................................9 C3 Ueno Dōbutsu-en (Ueno Zoo) ਄㊁േ‛࿦............................................. 22 C3 Kanei-ji ኡ᳗ኹ.......................................... 10 C2 Kannon-ji ⷰ㖸ኹ ..................................... 11 C2 Yushima Tenjin (Yushima Shrine) ḡፉᄤ␹.................................................. 23 B4 Kiyōmizu Kannon-dō ᷡ᳓ⷰ㖸ၴ.............................................12 C3 SHOPPING (pp135–48) Kokuritsu Kagaku Hakubutsukan Ameyoko Arcade ࠕࡔࡗᮮৼ ...........(see 5) (National Science Museum) ࿖┙⑼ቇඳ‛㙚...................................13 D3 Matsuzakaya ᧻ဈደ .............................. 24 C4

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UENO

There are some 240 museums in Tokyo, ranging from the grand and world-scale to quirky one-room affairs of mindboggling specificity. If you’re planning on visiting any of them, here are some tips to keep in mind. Museum hours are generally 10am to 5pm, and nearly all museums are closed Mondays. Hours in this book refer to closing times, not to last-admission times (usually an hour prior to closure). Student discounts are common by school type (university, high school etc), and for the youngest visitors admission is usually free. Seniors discounts are less frequent. You may be required to show ID for any discount. The GRUTT Pass allows free or discounted admission to some 45 attractions around town within two months, and it can be excellent value. It costs ¥2000 and can be purchased at tourist offices, Lawson convenience stores, some hotels and the venues themselves. Inquire at tourist information offices. The Handy Guide and Handy Map published by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government come with tear-off coupons for discounted admission.

KOKURITSU KAGAKU HAKUBUTSUKAN (NATIONAL SCIENCE MUSEUM) Map p72 ࿖┙⑼ቇඳ‛㙚 %3822-0111 Mon-Fri, 3822-0114 Sat, Sun & holidays; www.kahaku.go.jp; 7-20 Ueno Kōen, Taitō-ku; adult/child ¥500/free; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; bJR Yamanote Line or Tokyo Metro Ginza or Hibiya Line to Ueno (Ueno Kōen exit) This large, sprawling, multistorey museum dedicated to the pursuit of science is packed with delights, especially if you’re travelling with the little ones. Displays (eg of the forest or animals of the savannah) are imaginatively presented, some allowing kids to climb up, down, around and even within. Other displays explain concepts of physics and mechanics by showing just how mystical things like magnets do what they do. Also, don’t miss the giant, life-sized replica of blue whale that soars over the entrance to the museum. And of course, there are dinosaurs, dinosaurs and more dinosaurs…

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There is English signage throughout, though it’s not as extensive as the Japanese signage. An English-language audio guide is available (¥300). Note the different contact number for weekends and holidays.

KOKURITSU SEIYŌ BIJUTSUKAN (NATIONAL MUSEUM OF WESTERN ART) Map p72 ࿖┙⷏ᵗ⟤ⴚ㙚 %3828-5131; www.nmwa.go.jp; 7-7 Ueno Kōen, Taitō-ku; adult/child ¥420/free, student ¥70-130; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun, 9.30am-8pm Fri; bJR Yamanote Line or Tokyo Metro Ginza or Hibiya Line to Ueno (Ueno Kōen exit) Designed by Le Corbusier in the late 1950s, this museum has its roots in French impressionism, but runs the gamut from medieval Madonna & Child images to 20th-century splatter painting. All the big names are here, particularly Manet, Rodin, Miró and the Dutch Masters. It also hosts wildly popular temporary exhibits on loan from such stalwarts as the Prado Museum in Madrid. Much of the original collection was amassed by Matsukata Kōjiro (1865–1950), president of a shipbuilding company and later a politician. He would travel frequently to Europe on business and bring back treasures to inspire young, up-and-coming Japanese painters. Some 400 of his works were impounded in France during WWII, and it was only after Matsukata’s death that they were allowed to be shipped to Japan.

TOKYO METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART Map p72 ᧲੩ㇺ⟤ⴚ㙚 %3823-6921; www.tobikan.jp; 8-36 Ueno Kōen, Taitō-ku; admission free, charges for special exhibits vary; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; bJR Yamanote Line

SHITAMACHI MUSEUM Map p72 ਅ↸㘑ଶ⾗ᢱ㙚 %3823-7451; 2-1 Ueno Kōen, Taitō-ku; adult/ child/student ¥300/free/100; h9.30am-4.30pm; bJR Yamanote Line or Tokyo Metro Ginza or Hibiya Line to Ueno (Ueno Kōen exit) This museum re-creates life in the plebeian quarters of Tokyo during the Meiji and Taishō periods through an exhibition of typical Shitamachi buildings. Take off your shoes and look inside an old tenement house or around an old sweet shop while soaking up the atmosphere of long-gone Shitamachi. For some more detailed info, pick up the English-language leaflets describing the various buildings in detail. On weekends the museum stages kamishibai: narratives told by performers using lovely painted cards.

TOKYO DAIGAKU (TOKYO UNIVERSITY) Map p72 ᧲੩ᄢቇ bChiyoda Line to Nezu (exit 2) or Yushima (exit 1) Most kids in Japan dream of gaining admission to Tokyo University or simply Tōdai, Japan’s most prestigious institution of higher learning. Much like Harvard and Oxbridge in the West, admission here practically ensures later admission to the halls of power in both business and government. With that in mind, high-school students spend years studying at home and in cram schools for Tōdai’s rigorous admission exam. The campus itself is not beautiful, but does hold historical interest. In 1968–69 Tōdai became the centre of a national crisis when students thrice took over the main administrative building, Yasuda

YUSHIMA TENJIN (YUSHIMA SHRINE) Map p72

ḡፉ␹␠ Yushima Tenmangū; %3836-0753; 3-30-1 Yushima, Bunkyō-ku; admission free; h8am-5pm; bChiyoda Line to Yushima (exit 1) Across the way from Tokyo University, this particularly attractive Shintō shrine traces its lineage back to the 5th century. In the 14th century, the spirit of a renowned scholar was also enshrined here, which leads to Yushima Tenjin’s current popularity: it receives countless pilgrims in search of academic success. Amid the buildings with their painted accents and gold trim (the latest reconstruction was in 1995), students hang messages written on wooden tablets called ema, left in hope that lofty exam scores will gain hopeful high-school students admission to the power generator across the street or universities nationwide.

ASAKURA CHŌSO MUSEUM Map p72 ᦺୖᓂ႟㙚 %3841-4549; 7-8-10 Yanaka Taitō-ku; adult/student ¥400/150; h9.30am-4.30pm Tue-Thu, Sat & Sun; bJR Yamanote Line to Nippori (north exit) The primary work of sculptor Asakura Fumio (1883–1964) consisted of realistic sculptures of people and cats, but the real attractions are the Japanese house, studio and garden, designed by the artist himself. Upstairs in the Morning Sun Room and the Poised Mind Room are some excellent ink scrolls and beautiful old tansu (wooden chests).

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Finally, there is the Gallery of Hōryū-ji Treasures, which displays masks, scrolls and gilt Buddhas from Hōryū-ji, the first Buddhist temple in Japan. In order to protect the artefacts, some of which are more than 1000 years old, this wing may be shut when it’s raining or humid. A fifth building, Hyōkeikan (Hyōkei Hall) was built in 1909, with Western-style architecture that is reminiscent of a museum you might find in Paris. Used for special exhibitions, the Hyōkeikan displays temporary exhibits, a good number of which are in fact rotating exhibits from France and other European countries.

Established in 1926, this museum hosts special exhibitions of everything from traditional Japanese arts, such as ink brush and ikebana, to avant-garde shows paid for by groups of artists who collaborate to rent gallery space. One annual event taking place in November, which consistently draws hundreds of thousands, is the exhibit of the Nitten. The Nitten is considered to be the leading association of Japanese artists, in Japanese- and Westernstyle painting, calligraphy, sculpture and craft as art. The museum also boasts an excellent, free art library.

Hall, ousting the school’s president and other administrators before finally being ousted themselves. In order to make an example of the students, police employed tear gas as well as blasting the students’ stronghold with fire hoses on national TV in what came to be called the battle of Yasuda castle. Today, students at Tōdai are a bit more tame, and have a reputation among the Japanese as being somewhat conservative, stodgy and eccentric in comparison to other university students. Regardless of their disposition, standing among the hallowed halls of Japan’s top university is a memorable experience, even if only to rub shoulders with the future Japanese elite.

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or Tokyo Metro Ginza or Hibiya Line to Ueno (Ueno Kōen exit)

A MEDLEY OF MUSEUMS

NIPPORI TO NISHI-NIPPORI 0 0

Walking Tour

Spared from aerial bombing during WWII, Nippori (near Ueno) is imbued with the slowness of a former age. This nook of Tokyo is filled with small temples, atmospheric old cemeteries and little shops.

1 Tenno-ji (ᄤ₺ኹ The Heaven’s King Temple belongs to the Tendai sect, one of the most important Buddhist traditions in Japan. The undisputed highlight of this small but tranquil temple is the large Buddha image occupying the central courtyard. Cast in 1690, and modelled after the Great Buddha in Kamakura (p232), this rather solemn statue has weathered the many disasters of both old Edo and modern Tokyo.

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3 Kannon-ji (ⷰ㖸ኹ) Although there’s no shortage of small temples and shrines in Nippori, Kannon-ji is distinguished by the fact that its consecrated to Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy. Belonging to the Shingon sect, Kannon-ji features a comforting representation of the female incarnation of Buddha as well as a small cemetery from where you can steal views of the modern city beyond.

4 Sandara Kōgei (ߐࠎߛࠄᎿ⧓ደ) Retail therapy of the Shitamachi variety can be yours at this quaint little family-run basket store, which sells a variety of traditional baskets as well as rustic Japanese crafts. Although most of Tokyo once brimmed with stores of this variety, sadly they’ve gone the way of glitz and glamour.

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WALK FACTS Start Nippori Station (south exit) End Nishi-Nippori Station Distance 2km Time Three hours with stops Fuel Stop Chalet Swiss Mini

5 Asakura Chōso Museum (ᦺୖᓂ႟ 㙚) This cutesy-cool museum (p75) is home to a charming collection of Asakura Fumio’s quirky sculptures (many of them cats) as well as a marvellous Japanese garden behind the main building. The entire house was designed by the artist himself.

6 Chalet Swiss Mini (ࠪࡖ࡟ࠬࠗࠬࡒ࠾) No walk through historic Shitamachi would be complete without a stop at this historic restaurant (for more information see p162), which somehow managed to survive the aerial bombing of WWII. True to its moniker (and its Europhilic atmosphere), the Chalet Swiss Mini serves up a great fondue. After getting your energy back, continue north past a few small temples until you reach JR Nishi-Nippori station.

Eating p162; Shopping p138; Sleeping p208 As the thriving core of the historic Shitamachi district, Asakusa (a-sock-sa) is where the spirit of old Edo proudly lives. The neighbourhood is centred on the magnificent temple of Sensō-ji (also known as Asakusa Kannon-dō), which was founded in the 7th century, not only before Tokyo was Edo, but also before Edo was even a glimmer of an idea. As Edo rose, Asakusa emerged as a bustling commercial centre and bawdy entertainment area, becoming the sturdy beat of Shitamachi’s rowdy heart. Sadly, Asakusa has never fully recovered from the great earthquake of 1923, before it was flattened once again by aerial bombing in the closing months of WWII. Although the brightest lights have shifted elsewhere, this works to Asakusa’s advantage: it retains a close-to-the-ground feeling of the common people not readily visible in other parts of town. Also, time spent on the tranquil grounds of the rebuilt Sensō-ji offers a glimpse of Lost Japan that is difficult to experience outside places like Kyoto. This being Shitamachi, Asakusa is undeniably bustling and full of life, and lends itself perfectly to a directionless stroll. Here, more than any other district in Tokyo, you’ll be rewarded by closing the book, ignoring the map and just getting lost in the side streets and back alleys. Up one street, you might find a charming ryokan (traditional inn) or a fastidious sembei (rice cracker) maker, while down the next lane could be a marvellous public bath frequented by the yakuza (Japanese mafia). Nevertheless, you should not be afraid to put the book down and do it yourself – Asakusa is ripe for your own personal discovery. Asakusa is bounded on the east by the Sumida-gawa (Sumida River) and by Ueno to the west. All of the destinations in this section are easiest reached via Asakusa Station on the Ginza Line. There is also an Asakusa Station on the Toei Asakusa Line, a slightly longer walk. From either subway station, head away from the river along Kaminarimon-dōri; the Kaminarimon Gate marks the entrance to Sensō-ji. Through the gate, the lively Nakamise-dōri shopping arcade leads straight to the temple.

SENSŌ-JI (SENSO TEMPLE) Map p86 ᵻ⨲ኹ %3842-0181; 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; admission free; h24hr; bGinza Line to Asakusa (exit 1) or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit A5) Asakusa’s raison d’être, Sensō-ji enshrines a golden statue of Kannon, the Goddess of Mercy, which was miraculously fished out of the nearby Sumida-gawa by two fishermen in AD 628. In time, a structure was built to house the image, which has remained on the spot through successive reconstructions of the temple, including a complete postwar reconstruction following the aerial bombings at the end of WWII. The temple precincts begin at the majestic Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate), which houses a pair of ferocious protective deities: Fūjin, the god of wind, on the right; and Raijin, the god of thunder, on the left. Straight on through the gate is the lively shopping street Nakamise-dōri, which was recently renovated to include an attractive covered awning that keeps out the elements. Everything is sold here from tourist trinkets like purses made from obi (kimono sash) fabric to Edo-style crafts and wigs to

be worn with a kimono. Along this route are also stands that specialise in salty, crunchy sembei and ningyō-yaki (snacks in the shape of pagodas, fish and more), made of pancake batter with a dollop of anko (bean paste) baked inside. Nakamise-dōri leads north to another gate, Hōzō-mon, whose fierce guardians you must pass to reach the main temple compound. To your left stands a 53m-high five-storey pagoda, a 1973 reconstruction of a pagoda built by Tokugawa Iemitsu. The current structure is the second-highest pagoda in Japan.

TRANSPORT: ASAKUSA Train The Tōbu Nikko Line terminates at Asakusa Station, offering the most convenient connections to Nikko (p221). Metro The Ginza Line stops at Asakusa, just in front of Azuma-bashi. The Toei Asakusa Line also stops at a separate Asakusa Station nearby. Waterbuses Water taxis arrive and depart regularly from beneath Azuma-bashi.

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normally don’t have a morbid bent, a stroll through this historical and rather scenic cemetery (for more information see p99) is a great way to catch a glimpse of old Edo. With camera in hand, spend some time wandering the row upon row of ancient tombstones while keeping an eye out for the rather territorial cats in residence. After a circuit through the cemetery, stroll through the adjacent residential neighbourhood where you’ll find a handful of small shops selling Buddhist religious objects.

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NIPPORI TO NISHI-NIPPORI

To Sanya Hotel District (1km)

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The temple grounds resound with cameras and voices with accents from across the country and around the world. The Kannon image (a tiny 6cm) is cloistered within, but despite its seclusion, a steady stream of worshippers makes its way to the temple, where they cast coins, pray and bow in a gesture of respect. In front of the temple, smoke winds its way up from a huge incense cauldron around which supplicants stand wafting the smoke and its scent to their bodies and over their heads to ensure good health.

ASAKUSA-JINJA (ASAKUSA TEMPLE) Map p86

ᵻ⨲␹␠ Asakusa Kannon-dō; 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; bGinza Line to Asakusa (exit 1) or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit A5)

See Sumida River Map p126

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191–200) Asakusa Kannon Sento ᵻ⨲ⷰ㖸᷷ᴰ ...............................28 C2 Jakotsu-yu Ⱜ㛽ḡ...........................29 B2 SLEEPING (pp201–16) Asakusa View Hotel ᵻ⨲ࡆࡘ࡯ࡎ࠹࡞......................30 B2 Capsule Hotel Riverside ࠞࡊ࠮࡞ ࡎ࠹࡞޽ߐߊߐ࡝ࡃ࡯ࠨࠗ࠼ 31 C3 K's House ࠤࠗ࠭ࡂ࠙ࠬ᧲੩...32 B4 Khaosan Guesthouse ࠞࠝࠨࡦ᧲੩ࠥࠬ࠻ࡂ࠙ࠬ...33 C3 Ryokan Shigetsu ᣏ㙚ᜰ᦬...........34 C3 Sakura Hostel ࠨࠢ࡜ࡎࠬ࠹࡞ ..35 C2 Sukeroku no Yado Sadachiyo ഥ౐ߩኋ⽵ජઍ...........................36 B1 Tokyo Ryokan ᧲੩ᣏ㙚................37 B2 TRANSPORT (pp237–44) Waterbus Pier ᳓਄ࡃࠬ⊒⌕ᚲ 38 D3

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ENTERTAINMENT (pp175–90) Asakusa Engei Hall ᵻ⨲Ṷ⧓ࡎ࡯࡞ 27 B2

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The proximity of this Shintō shrine, behind Sensō-ji and to the right, testifies to the comfortable coexistence of Japan’s two major religions. Asakusa-jinja was built in honour of the brothers who discovered the Kannon statue and is renowned as a fine example of an architectural style called gongen-zukuri. It’s also the site of one of Tokyo’s most important festivals, the Sanja Matsuri (p18), a three-day extravaganza of costumed parades, about 100 lurching mikoshi (portable shrines) and strippedto-the-waist yakuza sporting remarkable tattoos. Niten-mon gate, which marks one of the entryways to Asakusa-jinja, was erected in 1618 as a private entrance to the temple for the Tokugawa shōgun. The gate was built here at the same time as Tōshō-gū

(p223), which burned at this location and was moved to Ueno for fire prevention. The gate’s weathered wooden pillars, plastered with votive papers left by Shintō pilgrims, and its enormous red paper lantern certainly merit a stop on your way out of the compound. Remarkably, Nitenmon is the only structure in the temple precincts to have survived Asakusa’s various disasters.

SUMIDA-GAWA (RIVER) CRUISE Map p86

㓈↰Ꮉࠢ࡞࡯࠭ Suijō Bus; %0120-977-311; www.suijobus.co.jp; bGinza Line to Asakusa (exit 5), Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit A5) for Azuma-bashi Pier Though the heavily developed Sumidagawa is no longer a quaint river, it is still famous for its 12 bridges, and a trip via waterbus is an excellent way to survey Tokyo’s old geography. The Suijō Bus departs from a pier located by Asakusa’s Azuma-bashi for the stately garden Hama Rikyū Onshi-teien (p66; ¥620, 35 minutes) and Hinode Pier (¥660, five minutes further). From Hinode Pier you can continue on the journey to Odaiba Marine Park (¥400, 20 minutes) or the Museum of Maritime Science (p131; ¥520, 25 minutes). Boats leave once or twice per hour between 9.45am and 6.30pm (until 7.10pm on Saturday and Sunday), and English leaflets

describe the dozen or so bridges you’ll pass under en route.

DEMBŌ-IN (DEMBO GARDEN) Map p86

વᴺ㒮 %3842-0181; admission free; bGinza Line to Asakusa (exit 1) or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit A5) To the left of the temple precinct lies Dembō-in, a garden that adjoins the residence of the chief priest of Sensō-ji. The grounds are thought to have been designed sometime in the late 18th century to resemble those of Katsura-rikyu, the sprawling imperial villa in Kyoto. Dembō-in is not usually open to the public, but if you’d like to take a peek at the 12,000-sq-metre area, whose pond is reputedly shaped like the Chinese character for ‘heart’, call ahead to the main office, which is to the left of the five-storey pagoda.

CHINGODŌ-JI (CHINGODO SHRINE) Map p86

㎾⼔ኹ Admission free; bGinza Line to Asakusa (exit 1) or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit A5) This odd, peaceful little shrine on the banks of Dembō-in pays tribute to tanuki (raccoon dogs who figure in Japanese myth as mystical shape-shifters and merry pranksters). Tanuki are normally depicted

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ASAKUSA Sumida-gawa (river) cruise INFORMATION 㓈↰Ꮉ᳓਄ࡃࠬ࠲࡯ࡒ࠽࡞...14 C3 Asakusa Post Office ᵻ⨲ㇷଢዪ .... 1 B3 Taiko-Kan (Taiko Drum Museum) Asakusa Tourist Information Center (JNTO) ᄥ㥏㙚..............................................15 B3 ᵻ⨲ⷰశ᩺ౝᚲ............................... 2 C3 Tokyo Hongan-ji ᧲੩ᧄ㗿ኹ......16 B3 Sensōji Hospital ᵻ⨲ኹ∛㒮 ........... 3 C2 SHOPPING (pp135–48) SIGHTS (pp85–9) Bengara ߴࠎ߇ࠄ...........................17 C2 Asahi Flame Building ..........................4 D3 Kanesō ߆ߨᗉ..................................18 C3 Asakusa-jinja (Asakusa Temple) Maiduru ߹޿ߠࠆ...........................19 B3 ᵻ⨲␹␠ ............................................. 5 C2 Matsuya ᧻ደ ....................................20 C3 Chingodō-ji (Chingodō Shrine) Miyamoto Unosuke Shoten ㎾⼔ኹ .................................................. 6 C2 ችᧄවਯഥ໡ᐫ........................(see 15) Edo Shitamachi Dentō Kōgeikan Satō Sample ࠨ࠻࠙ࠨࡦࡊ࡞ ...21 B2 (Traditional Crafts Museum) ᳯᚭਅ↸વ⛔Ꮏ⧓㙚 ..................... 7 B2 EATING (pp149–74) Five-Storey Pagoda ੖㊀Ⴁ.............. 8 C2 Asakusa Imahan ᵻ⨲੹ඨ ...........22 B2 Hanayashiki Amusement Park Daikokuya ᄢ㤥ኅ ...........................23 C2 ⧎߿ߒ߈ ............................................ 9 C2 Daikokuya ᄢ㤥ኅ ........................(see 34) Hōzō-mon ቲ⬿㐷 .............................10 C2 Komagata Dojō 㚤ᒻߤߗ߁........24 C3 Kaminarimon Gate 㔗㐷 ..................11 C3 Namiki Yabu Soba Niten-mon ............................................12 C2 ਗᧁ߿߱ߘ߫ ...............................25 C3 Sensō-ji ᵻ⨲ኹ...................................13 C2 Sometaro ᨴᄥ㇢.............................26 B3

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KAPPABASHI-DŌRI (KAPPABASHI STREET) Map p86 ว⠀ᯅㅢࠅ bGinza Line to Tawramachi (exit 3) A 10-minute walk west of Sensō-ji, Kappabashi-dōri is the country’s largest wholesale kitchenware and restaurant-supply district. Gourmet accessories include colourful, pat-

TEMPLE & SHRINE ETIQUETTE Visitors to Tokyo are often nervous about committing some dreadful faux pas at a temple or shrine. Relax – as with most other aspects of their lives, the Japanese are not particularly rigid in these matters and certainly wouldn’t judge a foreign visitor for not adhering to ritual. If photography is forbidden at a shrine, it will be posted as such; otherwise, it is permitted and you should simply use your discretion when taking pictures so as not to interfere with other visitors. At both shrines and temples, you can buy amulets called omamori, for traffic safety, academic success, good health, safe pregnancy and more, usually for ¥300 to ¥500. Omamori run the gamut from minimalist paper or wooden charms to small but elaborate brocade bags embroidered with the name of the shrine or temple and your wish. Another popular memento is shūin-chō (pilgrimage books; around ¥1000), which are blank fanfold books; purchase one at the first shrine or temple you visit, and then have it inscribed at each subsequent shrine or temple (around ¥300), usually with lovely calligraphy.

Shintō Shrines

Buddhist Temples Unless the temple contains a shrine, you will not have to purify yourself before entry. The place of worship in a temple is in the hondō, which usually contains a Buddhist altar and one or more Buddha images. The standard practice is to toss some change into the offering box, which sits in front of the altar, step back, place your hands together, pray and then bow to the altar before backing away. Most temples sell omikuji (fortunes written on little slips of paper). These usually cost ¥100. Either pay an attendant or place the money in an honour-system box. Fortunes are dispensed randomly from a special box containing sticks with different numbers written on their ends. Shake the box until one stick pops out of a hole in the box’s top. Show this to the attendant and you will be given a fortune matching the number on the stick (remember to return the stick to the box!). This will be written in Japanese under one of four general headings: dai-kichi (big luck), kichi (luck), sho-kichi (small luck) and kyō (bad luck). Kichi is considered best – your luck is good, but getting better – whereas dai-kichi implies that it’s great now but otherwise all downhill. Sho-kichi is moderately grim and kyō is the worst. Some fortunes are translated into English, or you can ask someone on the temple grounds to read your fortune for you. Once you’ve read it, fold the fortune and tie it to a nearby tree branch so that the wind can disperse the bad luck; there’s always a tree nearby festooned with the white fortunes, or sometimes there’s a clothesline-type contraption for the same purpose.

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TOKYO’S RED LIGHTS In early Edo times, Asakusa was a halfway stop between the Yamanote and the pleasure quarters of the Yoshiwara, but in time the area emerged as a pleasure quarter in its own right. Originally starting out as the hub of kabuki theatre, that most beloved of Edo entertainments, the resulting fairground atmosphere harboured a wealth of decidedly more secular entertainment. In time, beneath in the very shadow of Sensō-ji, Asakusa became known as the principal destination for those in search of the pleasures of the flesh. When Japan ended its isolation with the Meiji Restoration, it was in Asakusa that the first cinemas, music halls and Western operas appeared. It was also in Asakusa that another Western export – the striptease – first found a Japanese audience. Surprisingly, striptease almost failed to catch on due to the popularity of a rival form of risqué entertainment, namely female sword fighting (to modern ears, the idea of scantily clad jousting females might sound a bit strange, but at the time it was the height of erotic entertainment). However, following the inspired introduction of a bubble-bath show, the pursuit of the carnal became a permanent fixture of the Asakusa spirit. Today, you can still see girlie-show venues at the fringes of central Asakusa. terned noren (split doorway curtains), pots and pans, restaurant signage, tableware and a number of bizarre Japanese kitchen gadgets to make you go ‘hmmm?’ The key drawcard for overseas visitors is the plastic models of food, such as you see in restaurant windows throughout Tokyo. Whether you want steak and chips, a lurid pizza, a bowl of rāmen or a plate of spaghetti bolognaise complete with an upright fork, you’ll find it here.

EDO SHITAMACHI DENTŌ KŌGEIKAN (TRADITIONAL CRAFTS MUSEUM) Map p86

ᳯᚭਅ↸વ⛔Ꮏ⧓㙚 %3842-1990; 2-22-13 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; admission free; h10am-8pm; bGinza Line to Asakusa (exit 1) or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit A5) Gallery Takumi, as this hall is also known, is a great place to view dozens of handmade crafts that still flourish in the heart of Shitamachi. The gallery on the 2nd floor is crammed with a rotating selection of works by neighbourhood artists: fans, lanterns, knives, brushes, gold leaf, precision woodworking and glass just for starters. Craft demonstrations take place most Saturdays and Sundays around noon. If anything you see strikes your interest, staff can direct you to artisans or shops selling their work.

TAIKO-KAN (TAIKO DRUM MUSEUM) Map p86

ᄥ㥏㙚 %3842-5622; 2-1-1 Nishi Asakusa, Taitō-ku; adult/ child ¥300/150; h10am-5pm Wed-Sun; bGinza Line to Tawaramachi (exit 3) More than 600 drums make up this collection, gathered from around the world,

though only about 200 are available at any one time in the splendidly interactive drum exhibit. You have free rein to touch or play any instrument without a mark – those with a blue dot should be handled carefully, while a red dot means ‘off limits’. If you are inspired by the display, you can buy a Japanese-style drum and lots of other festival products at Miyamoto Unosuke Shoten (p138).

SHITAMACHI Walking Tour

If you squint a little, Shitamachi, or the Low City you’ll see before you, still looks something like the settings depicted in the wood-block prints famously produced here in Edo times. Luckily, the area retains much of its traditional working-class feel – sort of a rough, gruff, friendly spirit distinctly different from other zones of reinventionaddicted Tokyo.

1 Chingodō-ji (㎾⼔ኹ) Located on the ground of Sensō-ji (p85), this small temple is an interesting oddity. Founded in 1883, it was constructed for the tanuki (raccoon dogs) living in the Sensō-ji precincts. These beasts, which local lore has as relentless shape shifters and hedonists, are sculpturally depicted with enormous testicles. As you enter, also notice the jizō statues, protectors to travellers and children. There are often stalls set up along the stretch of road outside the temple precincts. Along with workaday clothing and shoes, you can find interesting festival accessories here, including the obligatory tanuki cell phone strap. See p87 for more information.

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NEIGHBOURHOODS ASAKUSA

NEIGHBOURHOODS ASAKUSA

Just past the torii (gate) at most larger Shintō shrines is a chōzuya (trough of water) with long-handled ladles perched on a hishaku (rack) above. This water can be used to purify yourself before entering the sacred precincts. Some Japanese forego this ritual and head directly for the main hall. The traditional way to purify oneself is to take a ladle, fill it with fresh water from the tap, pour some over one hand, transfer the ladle and pour water over the other hand, then pour a little water into a cupped hand, rinse your mouth and spit the water out. Make sure that any water you have used for washing or rinsing goes on to the ground beside the trough (not into the trough, which would make it impure). Once you have purified yourself, head to the haiden (hall of worship), which sits in front of the honden (main hall) enshrining the kami (god or gods) of the shrine. Here you’ll often find a thick rope hanging from a gong, in front of which is an offerings box. Toss in a coin, ring the gong by pulling on the rope (to summon the deity), bow twice, place your hands in the prayer position to pray silently, clap twice, bow once more and then back away. Some Japanese believe that a ¥5 coin is the luckiest offering at a temple or shrine (the word for ¥5, go-en, is a homonym for fate), and that the blessing engendered by the offering of a ¥10 coin will come in the future (since 10 can be pronounced ‘tō’ in Japanese, which also means ‘far’). Many shrines sell ema (wooden votive plaques), on which you can write a wish before hanging it on a rack for the purpose. Your wish does not have to be in Japanese.

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with enormous testicles on which they can fly. Since (needless to say) they make for great subject matter, they frequently pop up in Japanese wood-cuts like Utagawa Kuniyoshi’s The Seven Wonders of the Clowning Raccoon, in which the tanuki is shown cheerily dancing his way round a geisha house.

Asakusa ᵻ⨲

m i s e-

dŸri

Kaminarimon 㔗㐷 Kamina rimon-dŸ ri 4

ri

Koku sai-d Ÿri

Tawaramachi

DembŸin AsakusakŸen 1

ShinNak a

5

END

U mam ich-dŸr i

Nishi- Asakusa 3 Asakusa Imahan ⷏ᵻ⨲

Metro-dŸri

Asakusa ashih on-d Ÿri

OrangedŸ

Kapp ab

2

Sushiya-dŸ ri

Kappab ashi-dŸ ri

NishiAsakusa ⷏ᵻ⨲

6

200 m 0.1 miles

Asakusa START

WALK FACTS

2 Hanayashiki Amusement Park (⧎ ߿ߒ߈) This nostalgia-inducing amusement park (%3842-8780; 2-28-1 Asakusa; adult/child ¥900/400;h10.30am-6pm Wed-Mon), Tokyo’s oldest, dates back to 1853, and is an absolute delight for the young ones. If you’re having trouble finding the entrance, just listen for the delighted shrieking of young children, as well as the rollercoaster creaking and whooshing along its aging wooden tracks.

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The centrepiece of Asakusa’s old cinema district is this performance hall (for more information see p187), where rakugo (performances of stand-up comedy or long tales) are still held today. Unfortunately, the district itself is a little down-at-heel nowadays, and the few remaining cinemas don’t screen much besides Japanese pornography. However, as you wander through this historic area, consider that this was once the liveliest of Tokyo’s entertainment districts and the preferred haunt of everyone from prostitutes and gangsters to novelists and artisans.

AK A SAK A

4 Kaminarimon-dōri 㔗㐷㆏ࠅ The major street running through Asakusa is lined with traditional Japanese restaurants, any of which are perfect for a relaxing lunch break. Although there’s no shortage of delicious spots in this stretch of town, our recommendation is Asakusa Imahan (for more information see p162), a historic shabu-shabu restaurant where you can easily spend an hour or so swishing thinly sliced cuts of raw meat in a boiling pot filled with stock.

Eating p163; Sleeping p210 During the Meiji era, Akasaka was the district of Tokyo most densely populated by geisha. These female companions, who were highly trained artists and masters of conversation, continued to occupy the area during both world wars. During the American occupation, Akasaka’s geisha houses served as the settings for notorious backroom deals that jumpstarted the economy, sealed political alliances and shaped the modern nation of Japan. Although Tokyo’s geisha are sadly no more, Akasaka remains as Tokyo’s centre of both explicit and exclusive power. With the National Diet Building just a few minutes’ walk away in the Nagatachō area, Akasaka fills with bureaucrats, politicians and high-powered businessmen at the end of the day. The geisha houses may be long gone, but Akasaka’s backstreets and late-night bars still echo political murmurings and business deals. Politics aside, Akasaka is also home to Hie-jinja (below), which comes alive in the spring when the cherry blossoms complement its row of rust-red torii, and in autumn when children in traditional costumes arrive for Shichi-go-san (p19). One of Tokyo’s most exuberant matsuri takes place here, offering an excellent chance to see one of the rowdy, colourful processions of mikoshi. Akasaka is situated southwest of the Imperial Palace, due north of Roppongi and west of Aoyama. The neighbourhood is centred on Hie-jinja, though the pull of the National Diet Building to the shrine’s east is strong. Nearby is a cadre of luxury hotels, most notably the Hotel New Ōtani (see p59 and p205), which is known for its splendid garden and intimate art gallery.

5 Tokyo Hongan-ji (᧲੩ᧄ㗿ኹ) If you’re

HIE-JINJA (HIE SHRINE) Map p92

NATIONAL DIET BUILDING Map p92

ᣣᨑ␹␠ %3581-2471; www.hiejinja.net/eindex.htm; 2-10-5 Nagatachō, Chiyoda-ku; admission free; bGinza or Namboku Line to Tameike-Sannō (exit 5 or 7)

࿖ળ⼏੐ၴ %3581-3111; www.sangiin.go.jp; 1-7-1 Nagatachō, Chiyoda-ku; h8am-5pm MonFri, closed national holidays; bYūrakuchō, Hanzōmon or Namboku Line to Nagatachō (exit 1), or Marunouchi or Chiyoda Line to Kokkai-gijidōmae (exit 1)

looking to escape the tourist crowds and explore one of Asakusa’s little-known corners, this atmospheric but rather unknown temple complex is the perfect antidote to the sensory overload of Sensō-ji.

6 Kappabashi-dōri (߆ߞ߬ᯅ㆏ࠅ) Tokyo’s wholesale restaurant supplies area (for more information see p88) is shop upon shop selling plastic food models, bamboo cooking utensils, batik cushions and even the akachōchin (red lanterns) that light the back alleys of Tokyo by night. Go one – see if you can get a good deal on a plastic sushi model!

This Shintō shrine traces its roots to the sacred Mt Hiei, northeast of Kyoto, and it has been the protector shrine of Edo Castle since it was first built in 1478. The present site dates from 1659, though the shrine was destroyed in the 1945 bombings and later rebuilt in 1967. These days, the shrine is chiefly known as the host of one of Tokyo’s three liveliest matsuri, Sannō-sai (p18; 15 June). Given the shrine’s protector status, the festival was regularly attended by the shōgun, and even now the route of the festival’s mikoshi terminates at the Imperial Palace. When the festival’s not on, the shrine makes for a colourful yet quiet break. A highlight is the walk up through a ‘tunnel’ of orange torii, especially dramatic on a sunny day. The shrine is also great for a visit when the cherry blossoms are out or the leaves are changing. Oh, and if you’re wondering about the carved monkey clutching one of her young, she is emblematic of the shrine’s ability to offer protection against the threat of a miscarriage.

Built on a site once inhabited by feudal lords, the National Diet was completed in 1936 with its landmark pyramid-shaped dome. The chambers – the Shūgi-in or House of Representatives (the Upper House) and the Sangi-in or House of Councillors (the Lower House) – have been the scene of fist fights and wrestling matches over the occasional hot-button issue. Recently things have been a bit more tame, though you can still take in the occasional hot-tempered plenary session. Free 60-minute tours (%5521-7445) of the Sangi-in are available when the Diet is not in session, taking in the public gallery, the

TRANSPORT: AKASAKA Metro The Yūrakuchō, Hanzōmon, Namboku, Chiyoda, Marunouchi and Ginza Lines all converge in the Akasaka area, including Nagatachō, Akasaka, Akasaka-Mitsuke and Tameike-Sannō Stations.

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NEIGHBOURHOODS AKASAKA

NEIGHBOURHOODS ASAKUSA

Start Asakusa subway station (exit 6) End Tawaramachi subway station Distance 2km Time Two hours Fuel Stop Asakusa Imahan (p162)

3 Asakusa Engei Hall (ᵻ⨲Ṷ⧓ࡎ࡯࡞)

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0 0

SHITAMACHI

19

17 Hills 5

Ark

20

2 14

16 9

SŌGETSU KAIKAN Map p92 ⨲᦬ળ㙚 %3408-1126; www.sogetsu.or.jp/english/index .html; Sōgetsu Kaikan Bldg, 7-2-21 Akasaka, Minato-ku; h10am-5pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 10am8pm Fri; bGinza, Hanzōmon or Toei Ōedo Line to Aoyama-itchōme (exit 4) Sōgetsu is one of Japan’s leading schools of avant-garde ikebana offering classes in English (p196). Even if you have no interest in flower arranging, it’s worth a peek in for the building (1977) designed by Tange Kenzō and the giant, climbable piece of installation art that occupies the lobby, by the revered Japanese-American sculptor Isamu Noguchi.

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191–200) Sōgetsu Kaikan ⨲᦬ળ㙚 ...................................................(see 8) World Union of Karate-dō Organisation ........................ 19 E4 SLEEPING (pp201–16) ANA Intercontinental Tokyo ANA ࠗࡦ࠲࡯ࠦࡦ࠴ࡀࡦ࠲࡞ࡎ࠹࡞᧲੩ ..................... 20 D4 Asia Center of Japan ࠕࠫࠕળ㙚.....................................21 B4 Hotel Avanshell Akasaka ࡎ࠹࡞ࠕࡃࡦࠪࠚ࡞⿒ဈ .......................................... 22 D3 Hotel Ōkura ࡎ࠹࡞ࠝ࡯ࠢ࡜ ........................................... 23 E4

Ÿri i-d

MinamiAoyama ධ㕍ጊ

Gaienmae

Shibuya-ku ᷦ⼱඙

Prince Chichibu Memorial Rugby Stadium

Jing¥ Ky¥io (Jing¥ Stadium)

i mik

Ÿri a-d yam Ao

ie

Gaien -nis h

Aoyama Rei-en (Aoyama Cemetery) 㕍ጊ㔤࿦

AoyamaitchŸme

n-

hig

Nogizaka

21

K

ntique St) ri (A -dŸ otto

Roppongi ౐ᧄᧁ

AkasakadŸri

10

Akasaka

Minato-ku ᷼඙ 3

8

Area not open to public See Harajuku & Aoyama Map p110

Jing¥ gaien ␹ችᄖ⧞

23

Hospital

Toranomon ⯥ࡁ㐷 Toranomon

See Roppongi Map pp96–7

22

12 15

sak Aka

13

ri a-dŸ 1

18

Akasaka ⿒ဈ

6

Ÿri hi-d as

-Na IchŸ

National Stadium

ENTERTAINMENT (pp175–90) B-Flat ࡆ࡯ࡈ࡜࠶࠻............................................................ 16 D4 Suntory Hall ࠨࡦ࠻࡝࡯ࡎ࡯࡞ ..................................... 17 D4 DRINKING (pp175–90) Hobgoblin ࡎࡉࠧࡉ࡝ࡦ.................................................. 18 D3

Akasaka Imperial Residence

Ga

JR Shinanomachi

SHOPPING (pp135–48) Nogi-jinja Flea Market ਫᧁ␹␠ࡈ࡝࡯ࡑ࡯ࠤ࠶࠻ ........................................... 9 B4 EATING (pp149–74) Asterix ࠕࠬ࠹࡝࠶ࠢࠬ......................................................10 C4 Daidaiya ᯍኅ......................................................................... 11 D2 Delhi ࠺࡝࡯........................................................................... 12 D3 Lotus Palace............................................................................ 13 D3 Rakutei ᭉ੪ ........................................................................... 14 D4 Yamaya ߿߹߿⿒ဈᐫ ....................................................... 15 D3

4

11

i i-dŸr tsug Hito

Benkeibori Moat Yotsuya

Shimbashi ᣂᯅ

UchisaiwaichŸ

obo r

Sot

Toranomon

Kasumigaseki 㔰ࡩ㑐

pp Ro

Tameike-sannŸ

Kokkai-gijidŸmae

7

NagatachŸ ᳗↰↸ Akasakamitsuke

NagatachŸ

Kioi-chŸ ♿የ੗↸

i-dŸ ri

ri dŸ

UchisaiwaichŸ ౝᐘ↸

aiKo kk

Hibiya-kŸen (Hibiya Park) ᣣᲧ⼱౏࿦

Ch iyo da Lin e

Kasumigaseki

Kokkaimae Garden (Japanese Style) ࿖ળ೨ᐸ๺ᑼᐸ࿦

Mo at Kokkaimae Garden (Western Style) ࿖ળ೨ᐸᵗᑼᐸ࿦

No 4 National Diet Library Shuto

Expwy

Supreme Court

HirakawachŸ ᐔᴡ↸

National Theatre (Kokuritsu GekijŸ) See Central Tokyo Map p56

Sakuradamon

Imperial Palace Plaza

Imperial Palace Outer Garden KamidŸkan Moat

Fukiage Imperial Gardens

Area not open to public

Imperial Palace

ShimodŸkan Moat Fukiage Imperial Gardens

See Imperial Palace & Marunouchi Map pp52–3

Chiyoda-ku ජઍ↰඙

i

dŸri

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Shinjuku-

gi

HanzŸmon

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500 m 0.3 miles

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KŸjimachi

Sak urad a-d Ÿri

ori

0 0

Ata godŸr i

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AKASAKA

ori

a-d

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SIGHTS (pp91–3) Hie-jinja (Hie Shrine) ᣣᨑ␹␠ ...........................................6 D3 National Diet Building ࿖ળ⼏੐ၴ ....................................7 E2 Sōgetsu Kaikan ⨲᦬ળ㙚 ..................................................... 8 C3

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NEIGHBOURHOODS AKASAKA

NEIGHBOURHOODS AKASAKA

ri i-dŸ ach Tam

wy Exp to Shu

Hib iy

Ÿr i r i -d ibo Uc h

i or -b da

INFORMATION Akasaka Post Office ⿒ဈㇷଢዪ ........................................1 D3 American Embassy ࠕࡔ࡝ࠞᄢ૶㙚.................................2 E4 Canadian Embassy ࠞ࠽࠳ᄢ૶㙚..................................... 3 B3 Citibank ࠪ࠹ࠖࡃࡦࠢ..........................................................4 D2 Koyasu Drug Store Hotel Ōkura ሶ቟࠼࡜࠶ࠣࠬ࠻ࠕ࡯ࡎ࠹࡞ࠝ࡯ࠢ࡜ ..............(see 23) Roppongi Post Office ౐ᧄᧁㇷଢዪ ................................5 D4

emperor’s room (from where he addresses the Diet at the start of each session) and central hall (featuring a floor mosaic of a million pieces of marble and murals depicting the four seasons). For the tours, it is best not to arrive before 9am to avoid the largest tour groups. And unless you’re here for a protest, leave your red headbands, which are de rigueur among demonstrators, in your suitcase.

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ra ku Sa

AKASAKA

ROPPONGI HILLS Map pp96–7 ౐ᧄᧁࡅ࡞࠭ %6406-6000; Roppongi 6-chōme; admission free; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 1c) Opened in 2003 to an incredible amount of fanfare, Roppongi Hills was the dream of real-estate developer Mori Minoru, who long envisaged a transformation of Roppongi. Since then, an incredible amount of lofty praise has been vaulted at the complex, which is arguably the most architecturally arresting sight in Tokyo. Simply put, Roppongi Hills is a feast for the eyes, enhanced by public art such as Louise Bourgeois’s giant, spiny alfresco spider called Maman and the benches-cum-sculptures on Keyakizaka Street. With expertly drawn lines of steel and glass, expansive tree-lined public spaces and a healthy smattering of the city’s top bars, restaurants and shops, Roppongi Hills stands as a testament to a new concept in urban planning. Rather than building larger and taller residential towers, it is argued developers should instead focus on useable space that can better serve the community.

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And truth be told, although most Tokyoites can’t even dream about owning a high-rise apartment at the city’s most prestigious address, Roppongi Hills has become a destination in its own right. The centrepiece of the complex is the 54-storey Mori Tower, which is home to some of the world’s leading companies as well as the Mori Art Museum and Tokyo City View (opposite). At the base of the tower are the marvellous Grand Hyatt Tokyo (p211) and some 200 shopping, drinking and dining establishments including internationally known brands and chefs (eg Joël Robuchon). On the plaza below, the TV Asashi network headquarters adjoins an ancient samurai garden and the Roppongi Hills Arena, where you can often catch outdoor

TRANSPORT: ROPPONGI Metro The Hibiya and Toei Ōedo Lines both run through Roppongi, but the Hibiya Line drops you closer to Roppongi Crossing, Roppongi’s main intersection.

MORI ART MUSEUM Map pp96–7 ᫪⟤ⴚ㙚 %5777-8600; www.mori.art.museum; Mori Tower, Roppongi 6-chōme; admission varies; h10am-10pm Wed-Mon, 10am-5pm Tue; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 1c) Perched on the 52nd and 53rd floors of Mori Tower in the Roppongi Hills complex, the high ceilings, broad views and thematic programmes of this new museum have somehow managed to live up to all the hype. Exhibits are consistently beautifully presented and run the gamut from Bill Viola and Sugimoto Hiroshi to the Da Vinci Codex and the silver of Georg Jensen. Admission to the museum includes Tokyo City View (%6406-6652; www.tokyocityview.com; adult/child/student ¥1500/500/1000 if purchased separately; h9am-1am), on the 52nd floor. There are observatories atop other tall buildings in town, but none can match Roppongi Hills for its central location and undeniable ‘cool factor’. The observatory is open longer than the museum. If you’re visiting the museum, you also get admission to the observatory; otherwise you have to purchase a separate admission. Note that the museum is subject to closure between exhibitions, but Tokyo City View is open daily.

TOKYO MIDTOWN Map pp96–7 ᧲੩ࡒ࠶࠼࠲࠙ࡦ %3423-8000; Minato-ku; admission free; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 8) Following the impressive lead of Roppongi Hills, Tokyo Midtown wowed the legions of crowds who arrived on opening day in 2007. A composite urban district of ultramodern buildings surrounding a historic Japanese garden, Tokyo Midtown is perhaps the only project to surface in recent years that can give Roppongi Hills a run for its money. Following the same design and urban planning lines that made Roppongi Hills so successful, the Tokyo Midtown complex brims with sophisticated bars, restaurants, shops, art galleries, hotels and leafy public spaces. Escalators ascend alongside manmade waterfalls of rock and glass, while soaring planters full of bamboo

draw your eyes to the lofty heights of the towers above. Aside from the myriad opportunities for parting with serious cash while simultaneously buying status, the highlight of the complex is undoubtedly Hinokicho-kōen. Formerly a private garden attached to the Azabu villa residence of the Mori family, a member of the Hagi Clan during the Edo Period, Hinokicho was reopened as a public park for the benefit of visitors to Tokyo Midtown. Adjacent to the park is the aptly named Midtown Garden, which was the former site of the Japan Self Defense Agency, though today it’s a cherry tree–lined grassy space that’s perfect for a picnic. Tokyo Midtown is also home to the Suntory Museum of Art (below), which provides a nice respite from all the rampant consumerism about, as well as the glamorous Grand Hyatt Tokyo (p211).

SUNTORY MUSEUM OF ART Map pp96–7 ࠨࡦ࠻࡝࡯⟤ⴚ㙚 %3479-8600; www.mori.art.museum; Tokyo Midtown, Minato-ku; admission varies; h10am6pm Sun-Mon, 10am-8pm Wed-Sat; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 8) Since its original opening in 1961, the Suntory Museum of Art has always subscribed to the underlying philosophy of ‘Lifestyle Art’. Adhering to this mantra, rotating exhibits focus on Japanese ceramics, lacquerware, glass dyeing, weaving and other facets of lifestyle art as opposed to more traditional paintings and sculpture. One of the more innovative museums in the city, the Suntory Museum is likely to thrive in its brand new location at the heart of Tokyo Midtown. Note that the museum is subject to closure between exhibitions.

TOKYO TOWER Map pp96–7 ᧲੩࠲ࡢ࡯ %3433-5111; www.tokyotower.co.jp/english; 4-2-8 Shiba-kōen, Minato-ku; adult/child ¥820/460; hobservation platforms 9am-10pm; bToei Ōedo Line to Akabanebashi (Akabanebashi exit) Tokyo Tower, which currently serves as the city’s principal radio and TV broadcasting tower, proudly bills itself as the world’s highest self-supporting steel tower, and the tallest man-made structure in Japan. However, with the planned 2011 opening of the Sumida Tower in Asakusa, it’s likely that Tokyo Tower’s days of fame are numbered.

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NEIGHBOURHOODS ROPPONGI

NEIGHBOURHOODS ROPPONGI

Eating p164; Shopping p139; Sleeping p211 Since the end of WWII, Roppongi has garnered a notorious reputation as a den of sin. A popular haunt for American soldiers on leave, wet-behind-the-ears foreigners fresh off the plane, Chinese prostitutes, Russian strippers, Nigerian bouncers and plenty of hungry women and hungrier men on the prowl, Roppongi is the unabashed hedonism capital of Tokyo. Most self-respecting Tokyoites and long-term foreign residents won’t go near the place, but it’s hard to deny that a good time is usually had by all who do. Dancing and flirting until the wee hours of the morning is the standard course of action in Roppongi, as is spending big, drinking hard and forgetting most of the night. Ten, 20 or 50 years ago, any Tokyoite could tell you exactly what you could do during the day in Roppongi: nothing. Yet in 2003, everything changed following the opening of Roppongi Hills, a masterfully designed shopping/dining/office/residential/hotel/gallery/museum complex. A visually stunning project aimed at redefining the cultural landscape of the neighbourhood, Roppongi Hills is now regarded as one of the capital’s principal landmarks. Though the complex was given a run for its money in 2007 with the opening of Tokyo Midtown (opposite), an equally impressive feat of urban architecture. Together, both complexes are seeking to transform Roppongi from a sleazy pleasure quarter into a high-class neighbourhood with all the bourgeois trimmings. And so far it’s working – real estate prices are on the rise, well-to-do men and women are changing addresses and high-class boutiques, bars and restaurants are popping up all over the neighbourhood. In the meantime, the posh cafés lining the streets near Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown are a world away from the liquor-soaked clubs in nearby Roppongi Crossing, though this may change in the years to come. Roppongi lies between Aoyama and Harajuku to the west and Ginza and Shiodome to the east, while to the north it eventually turns into stately Akasaka. The neighbourhood is centred on Roppongi Crossing (Roppongi kōsaten), where Roppongi-dōri meets Gaien-highashi-dōri in the shadow of the expressway. Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown lies west along Roppongidōri (if you’re facing Almond, head right).

performances. Just beyond, the brand-name shops ascending Keyakizaka are nothing short of marvels of modern design.

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INFORMATION Almond ࠕ࡯ࡕࡦ࠼...........................1 D2 Australian Embassy ࠝ࡯ࠬ࠻࡜࡝ࠕᄢ૶㙚..................2 E5 Citibank ࠪ࠹ࠖࡃࡦࠢ......................3 D2 Dutch Embassy ࠝ࡜ࡦ࠳ᄢ૶㙚....4 F2 French Embassy ࡈ࡜ࡦࠬᄢ૶㙚 ................................5 B6 German Embassy ࠼ࠗ࠷ᄢ૶㙚.... 6 B5 Italian Embassy ࠗ࠲࡝ࠕᄢ૶㙚....7 F5 Japanese Red Cross Language Service Volunteers ᣣᧄ⿒චሼ␠....................................8 H3 Japanese Red Cross Medical Centre ᣣᧄ⿒චሼ␠ක≮࠮ࡦ࠲࡯ ....... 9 B4 Manga Hiroba ߹ࠎ߇ᐢ႐............. 10 E2 Mizuho Bank ╙৻൘ᬺ㌁ⴕ ......... 11 D2 National Azabu Supermarket Pharmacy ࠽࡚ࠪ࠽࡞㤗Ꮣࠬ.(see 37) National Medical Clinic ࡯ࡄ࡯ࡑ࡯ࠤ࠶࠻⮎ዪ............(see 37) Nishi-Azabu Post Office ⷏㤗Ꮣㇷଢዪ..................................12 B3 Police Box ੤⇟.................................. 13 D2 South Korean Embassy 㖧࿖ᄢ૶㙚 ..................................... 14 D5 Tokyo Medical & Surgical Clinic ᧲੩ࠢ࡝࠾࠶ࠢ............................ 15 G3

SHOPPING (pp135–48) Axis ࠕࠢࠪࠬࡆ࡞.......................... 26 E3 Blue & White ࡉ࡞ࠕࡦ࠼ࡢࠗ࠻27 D4 Don Quixote ࠼ࡦࠠࡎ࡯࠹........ 28 D2 Japan Sword ᣣᧄಷ೶................. 29 G1 Muji ήශ ............................................30 C3 Roppongi Antique Fair ౐ᧄᧁࠕࡦ࠹ࠖ࡯ࠢࡈࠚࠕ.. 31 D2 Roppongi Hills ౐ᧄᧁࡅ࡞࠭..(see 22) Tokyo Midtown ᧲੩ࡒ࠶࠼࠲࠙ࡦ......................32 C2

DRINKING (pp175–90) A971 .....................................................52 C2 Agave ࠕࠟࡌ................................... 53 D2 BuL-Lets ࡉ࡟࠶࠷ ..........................54 C3 Heartland ࡂ࡯࠻࡜ࡦ࠼ ..............55 C3 EATING (pp149–74) Mistral Blue/Train Bar ࡒࠬ࠻࡜࡞ࡉ࡞࡯..................... 56 D2 China Room ࠴ࡖࠗ࠽࡞࡯ࡓ..(see 61) Motown House 1&2 ....................... 57 D2 Fukuzushi ⑔ኼม........................... 33 D3 Tokyo Sports Café Hawker Style Asian Canteen ᧲੩ࠬࡐ࡯࠷ࠞࡈࠚ .................58 C2 ᶏධ㢚㘵㘩ၴ .............................. 34 D3 Inakaya ↰⥢ደ..............................(see 41) SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191–200) Meidi-ya ᣿ᴦደ ...............................35 C2 Azabu-jūban Onsen Moti ࡕ࠹ࠖ ...................................... 36 D2 㤗Ꮣච⇟᷷ᴰ .............................. 59 D4 National Azabu ࠽࡚ࠪ࠽࡞㤗Ꮣ Koshi-no-Yu Sentō ⣶ߩḡ㌛ḡ (see 59) ࠬ࡯ࡄ࡯ࡑ࡯ࠤ࠶࠻ .................37 B4 Sumibi-Yakiniku Toraji SLEEPING (pp201–16) Arca Torre International ὇Ἣ὾⡺࠻࡜ࠫ  ࡎ࠹࡞ࠕ࡞ࠞ࠻࡯࡟౐ᧄᧁ.. 60 D2 ࠗࡦ࠲࡯࠽࡚ࠪ࠽࡞ .................38 C3 Vinoteca ࡧࠖࡁ࠹ࠞ .....................39 C1 Grand Hyatt Tokyo ࠣ࡜ࡦ࠼ࡂࠗࠕ࠶࠻᧲੩........61 C3 ENTERTAINMENT (pp175–90) Hotel Ibis ࡎ࠹࡞ࠕࠗࡆࠬ ......... 62 D2 Villa Fontaine Roppongi Annex Blue Note Tokyo ࡎ࠹࡞ࡧࠖ࡜ࡈࠜࡦ࠹࡯࠿ ࡉ࡞࡯ࡁ࡯࠻᧲੩..................... 40 A2 ౐ᧄᧁࠕࡀ࠶ࠢࠬ...................... 63 E2 Cavern Club ࠞࡃ࡯ࡦࠢ࡜ࡉ.... 41 D2

Tokyo Tower was built during the postwar boom of the 1950s when Japan was struggling to create a new list of monuments symbolising its modernity. Drawing inspiration from the Eiffel Tower, Tokyo Tower was built 8.6m taller than its Paris brethren. The similarities stop there as the Tokyo Tower was painted bright orange and white in order to comply with international aviation safety regulations. Truth be told, Tokyo Tower is something of a shameless tourist trap, though it’s good fun if you go with the right attitude. Elevators whisk visitors up to the observation deck, which provides some stunning views of the sprawling megalopolis that is Tokyo. The first floor boasts an enormous aquarium (adult/child ¥1000/500), while the third floor is home to a wax museum (adult/child ¥870/460) that retains some degree of retro-popularity.

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Club 3.2.8 ਃੑ౎.............................42 B3 Muse ࡒࡘ࡯࠭.................................43 B3 New Lex Edo ࠾ࡘ࡯࡟࠶ࠢࠬࠛ࠼࠘࡯....... 44 D2 Pasela Karaoke ࡄ࠮࡜.................. 45 D2 Salsa Caribe ࠨ࡞ࠨࠞ࡝ࡌ ......... 46 D2 Salsa Sudada ࠨ࡞ࠨࠬ࠳࡯࠳ ...47 C2 Space Lab Yellow ࠬࡍ࡯ࠬ࡜ࡏࠗࠛࡠ࡯ ............48 B3 Sweet Basil 139 (Stb139) ࠬࠗ࡯࠻ࡃࠫ࡞ 139 ................. 49 D2 Vanilla ࡧࠔ࠾࡜ ..............................50 C2 Virgin Toho Cinemas Roppongi Hills ࡧࠔ࡯ࠫࡦ TOHO ࠪࡀࡑ࠭౐ᧄᧁࡅ࡞࠭ ............51 C3

ZŌJŌ-JI (ZŌJŌ TEMPLE) Map pp96–7 Ⴧ਄ኹ %3432-1431; Shiba-kōen; admission free; hdawn-dusk; bToei Ōedo Line to Akabanebashi (Akabanebashi exit) Behind Tokyo Tower is this former funerary temple of the Tokugawa regime, one of the most important temples of the Jōdō (Pure Land) sect of Buddhism. It dates from 1393, yet like many sights in Tokyo, its original structures have been relocated and subject to war, fire and other natural disasters. It has been rebuilt several times in recent history, the last time in 1974. Nevertheless, Zōjō-ji remains one of the most monumental temples in town. The main gate, Sanmon, was constructed in 1605, and its three sections were designed to symbolise the three stages one must pass through to achieve nirvana.

The giant bell (1673; 15 tonnes) is considered one of the Great Three Bells of the Edo period. On the temple grounds there is a large collection of statues of the Bodhisattva jizō, said to be a guide during the transmigration of the soul (see p101 for more details).

NATIONAL ART CENTER, TOKYO Map pp96–7 NACT; %6812-9900; www.nact.jp; 7-22-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku; admission varies; h10am-6pm Sat-Mon & Wed-Thu, 10am-8pm Fri; bChiyoda

Line to Nogizaka (exit 6) This architectural marvel designed by Kishō Kurokawa, which opened in 2007 as Japan’s fifth national-class museum, has no permanent collection but boasts the country’s largest exhibition space for visiting shows, which have included painter Yokoyama Taikan and photographer Shigeo Anzai. The NACT is also worth visiting for its awesome undulating mesh façade, its café atop a giant inverted cone and the great gift shop.

AXIS Map pp96–7 ࠕࠢࠪࠬࠡࡖ࡜࡝࡯ %3587-2781; 5-17-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku; admission free; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 3) One of the most respected design showcases in Tokyo, as well as the publisher of a well-regarded design magazine, Axis is a multi-storey, multi-genre gallery and retail building. There’s always something new and daring in its art galleries, and the shops, chosen with care, include home

design at Living Motif (%3587-2784, 1st & 2nd fl), fabulously innovative textiles at Nuno (%3582-7997; www.nuno.com; B1 fl) and flashy duds and accessories for your inner auto mechanic at Le Garage (%3587-2785; 1st fl). Also see p139.

MUSÉE TOMO Map pp96–7 ᥓ⟤ⴚ㙚 %5733-5311; 4-1-35 Toranomon, Minato-ku; adult ¥1300, student ¥500-800; h11am-6pm TueSun; bHibiya Line to Kamiyachō (exit 4b) This marvellous museum may be one of Tokyo’s most elegant and tasteful. It is named for Kikuchi Tomo, whose collection of contemporary Japanese ceramics wowed them in Washington and London before finally being exhibited in Tokyo. Exhibitions change every few months and might include highlights of the Kikuchi collection or a special study of raku pottery; you can bet that the displays will be atmospheric and beautiful. The museum is behind the Hotel Ōkura.

COMPLEX Map pp96–7 ࠦࡦࡊ࡟࠶ࠢࠬ %5411-7510; admission free; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 3) If you’re here for only a few days and are seeking a peek into the Tokyo art scene, stop here. Several of the best commercial galleries in town inhabit the five-storey, aptly named Complex. Spaces are a mix of styles and intentions, a conflation of more established exhibitors such as Ota Fine Arts, known for showing big names like Kusama Yayoi as well as newer galleries.

TOKYO CEMETERIES Strolling through a cemetery may seem like a grim pastime, but in Tokyo the grave markers can be quite elegant, making the experience both historical and pleasant. Aoyama Rei-en (㕍ጊ㔤࿦; Map pp96–7; Aoyama Cemetery; h24hr; bChiyoda Line to Nogizaka, main exit) John Manjiro, the famously shipwrecked young fisherman who became the first Japanese person to go to America, is buried here, as is Professor Ueno, the master of Hachikō the Dog (p105). It’s a good alternative to the crowds at Ueno or Yoyogi-kōen during hanami (cherry-blossom viewing) season. You can stroll from either Roppongi or Aoyama. Yanaka Cemetery (⼱ਛ㔤࿦ Map p72; hdawn-dusk; bJR Yamanote Line to Nippori, south exit) One of Tokyo’s oldest cemeteries, it’s worth strolling the narrow lanes and continuing to Ueno on foot. Beyond the cemetery, the quiet Yanaka area has many old Buddhist temples and speciality shops. For a walking tour of the area, see p76. Zōshigaya Cemetery (㔀มࡩ⼱Ⴤ࿾; Map p122; hdawn-dusk; bYūrakuchō Line to Higashi-ikebukuro, exit 5) Not far south of Ikebukuro’s commercial hub is the old residential district of Zōshigaya. This cemetery, a collection of weathered headstones surrounded by small paths and greenery, is the final resting place of authors Lafcadio Hearn, Nagai Kafu and Soseki Natsume.

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NEIGHBOURHOODS ROPPONGI

NEIGHBOURHOODS ROPPONGI

SIGHTS (pp94–9) Aquarium...........................................(see 24) Axis ࠕࠢࠪࠬࠡࡖ࡜࡝࡯...........(see 26) Complex ࠦࡦࡊ࡟࠶ࠢࠬ............. 16 D3 Hinokicho-kōen ᷼඙┙ᯫ↸౏࿦............................ 17 D1 Midtown Garden ࡒ࠶࠼࠲࠙ࡦ࡮ࠟ࡯࠺ࡦ......... 18 D1 Mori Art Museum ᫪⟤ⴚ㙚 ...........19 C3 Musée Tomo ᥓ⟤ⴚ㙚.................... 20 F2 National Art Centre, Tokyo .............21 C2

Roppongi Hills ౐ᧄᧁࡅ࡞࠭.....22 C3 Suntory Museum of Art ࠨࡦ࠻࡝࡯⟤ⴚ㙚......................23 C2 Tokyo City View ᧲੩ࠪ࠹ࠖࡆࡘ࡯...................(see 19) Tokyo Tower ᧲੩࠲ࡢ࡯ ............. 24 F3 Wax Museum..................................(see 24) Zōjō-ji (Zōjō Temple) Ⴧ਄ኹ...... 25 G3

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ROPPONGI

BEER MUSEUM YEBISU Map p102 ᕺᲧኼ㤈㈬⸥ᔨ㙚 %5423-7255; www.sapporobeer.jp/english/when/ museum/museum.html; 4-20-1 Ebisu, Shibuya-ky; admission free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun, last entry 5pm; bHibiya or JR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (main exit) Let’s cut to the chase. Yes, this is the site of the original Yebisu brewery (1889; now owned by the giant brewer Sapporo). And yes, inside are giant pot-bellied beer vats, antique signage, cute beer ads and a cheesy Magic Vision Theatre. But really you’ve come for the Tasting Room, where you can try cheap draughts of everything from weizen and ale to porters and stouts – a four-glass tasting set will set you back only ¥400).

DAIEN-JI (DAIEN TEMPLE) Map p102 ᄢ౞ኹ %3491-2793; 1-8-5 Shimo-Meguro, Meguro-ku; admission free; h9am-5pm; bJR Yamanote Line or subway Namboku or Mita Line to Meguro (west exit) Established sometime around 1615, this small, photogenic temple hemmed in by

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trees commemorates stillborn and miscarried children as well as aborted fetuses. Located in the rear of the temple precinct is a separate tribute to the 14,700 people who died in the fire of 1772, which, in addition to flattening most of the wooden houses in surrounding Meguro, burned the original temple structure to the ground. As you enter, you’ll see red-bonneted jizō figures (small stone statues of the

TRANSPORT: EBISU, DAIKANYAMA & MEGURO Train The JR Yamanote Line stops at Ebisu and Meguro Stations. Daikanyama is located on the Tōkyō Tōyoko Line. Metro The Hibiya Line runs through Ebisu and connects with the main JR station. Meguro is served by the Namboku and Toei Mita Lines. Some locations east of Meguro are closest to Shirokanedai Station on the Namboku Line.

JAPANESE GODS & MYTHICAL CREATURES You can see representations of a myriad folk gods in temples, shrines and artwork. Common deities and supernatural creatures include the following. Benzaiten The goddess of art is skilled in eloquence, music, literature and wisdom. She holds a biwa (lute) and is often escorted by a sea snake. Bishamon The god of war wears a helmet and a suit of armour, and brandishes a spear. As a protector of Buddhism, he can be seen carrying a pagoda. Daikoku The god of wealth has a bag full of treasures slung over his left shoulder and a lucky mallet in his right hand. Ebisu The patron of seafarers and a symbol for prosperity in business, Ebisu carries a fishing rod with a large, red sea bream dangling on the line and can be recognised by his beaming, bearded face. Fukurokuju This god looks after wealth and longevity. He has a bald, dome-shaped head, a dumpy body and wears long, flowing robes. Hotei The god of happiness is instantly recognisable (in Japan and elsewhere in Asia) by his large paunch and Cheshire-cat grin. Originally a Chinese beggar-priest, he is the only god in this group whose antecedents can be traced to a human being. His bulging bag provides for the needy and is never empty. Jizō Bodhisattva and protector of children, the infirm, the aged and travellers. Often seen by the side of the road, and wearing a red bib and sometimes a cap, and often in clusters where tragedies have taken place. Jurojin This god also covers longevity. He sports a distinguished white beard and holds a cane to which is attached a scroll listing the life spans of all living beings. Kappa These are amphibious creatures about the size of a 12- or 13-year-old child. They have webbed hands and feet and a reputation for mischief, such as dragging horses into rivers or stealing cucumbers. The source of their power is a depression on top of their heads that must always contain water. A crafty method to outwit a kappa is to bow to it. When the kappa bows back, it empties the water from its head and loses its power. The alternatives are not pleasant: kappa are said to enjoy ripping out their victim’s liver through the anus! Kitsune This creature is a fox that has strong connections with the supernatural and is worshipped at over 30,000 Inari shrines as the messenger of the harvest god. Fushimi Inari Taisha, a shrine near Kyoto, is the largest of its kind and is crammed with fox statues. Maneki-neko The Beckoning Cat is a very common sight outside shops or restaurants. The raised left paw attracts customers – and their money. Shichifuku-jin The seven gods of luck are a happy band of well-wishers plucked from Indian, Chinese and Japanese sources. Their images are popular at New Year, when they are, more often than not, depicted as a group on a takarabune (treasure ship). Tanuki This creature is often translated as ‘badger’, but bears a closer resemblance to a North American raccoon. Like the kitsune, the tanuki is thought of as a mischievous creature and is credited with supernatural powers, but it is more a figure of fun than the fox. Statues usually depict the tanuki in an upright position with straw headgear, clasping a bottle of sake. Tengu The mountain goblin has a capricious nature – sometimes abducting children, sometimes returning those who were missing. Its unmistakable feature is a long nose, like that of a proboscis monkey.

Buddhist protector of travellers and children; for more details see the boxed text, above). Further into the temple precinct and completely lining one of its walls are Arhat (atonement) statues of the Gohyakurakan (the 500 followers of Buddha). Each of these exquisite stone markers, made to appease the souls that departed in the great fire, has its own design and facial expression. Water is often placed in front of the statues to ease the degree of the victims’ suffering.

SHIZEN KYŌIKU-EN (INSTITUTE FOR NATURE STUDY) Map p102 ⥄ὼᢎ⢒࿦ %3441-7176; www.kahaku.go.jp/english/visitor _info/shizenen/index.html; 5-21-5 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku; adult/child to 18 & seniors ¥300/free; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun Sep-Apr, 9am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Aug, last admission 4pm year-round; bNamboku Line to Shirokanedai (exit 1) Although the 200,000 sq metres of this land was the estate of a daimyō some six centuries ago and was the site of gunpowder

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NEIGHBOURHOODS EBISU, DAIKANYAMA & MEGURO

NEIGHBOURHOODS EBISU, DAIKANYAMA & MEGURO

Eating p165; Shopping p140; Sleeping p211 Home to a smart, stylish set of young professionals, wealthy families and privileged expats, Ebisu is one of Tokyo’s best-kept secrets. The entire neighbourhood, which screams status, privilege and excellent breeding, offers up some of the city’s most cosmopolitan eateries and lounges. Quick to scoff at the teen trends and fickle fashions of nearby Harajuku and Shibuya, Ebisu is cool, classy and always sophisticated. Up the hill and to the west of Ebisu is Daikanyama, which is characterised by a matrix of funky restaurants and bars run by eccentric proprietors, crazy buildings designed by local visionaries and unique shops defying classification. Equally prestigious as an Ebisu address, Daikanyama is something of a Ginza for high-class shoppers and diners in-the-know. One stop south from Ebisu on the JR Yamanote Line is Meguro, which is decidedly more working class than its ritzy neighbours. However, Meguro does have a number of unique sights including the intimate and haunting Daien-ji temple (below), the intimate and artful Meguro Museum of Art (p103) and the frankly icky Meguro Parasitological Museum (p103). Also nearby are the forests of the Shizen-Kyōiku-en, a nature preserve right in the middle of the big city. If you have even the slightest love for that deliciously malty alcoholic beverage known in Japanese as biiru, don’t miss the Beer Museum Yebisu (below), which has a bargain tasting room that serves up copious amounts of their famous brew. Also of note in Ebisu is the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography (p103), a point of pilgrimage for devout shutterbugs (and there are certainly a lot of them in Japan!). Ebisu and Daikanyama are located south of Harajuku and Aoyama and east of Roppongi. From the JR Ebisu Station, the east exit opens onto the Yebisu Sky Walk, a series of conveyor belts that will eventually deposit you in the courtyard of Yebisu Garden Place. This is the side of Ebisu designed for visitors, tourists and hardcore shoppers. If you want to see where locals live and play, head for the west exit and up the hill towards glitzy Daikanyama. From Meguro Station, Daien-ji, Meguro Gajoen and the Meguro Museum of Art are west of the station, while the Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum and National Park for Nature Study are east along Meguro-dōri.

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E B I SU, DAI K AN YA M A & M EG U RO

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warehouses in the early Meiji period, you’d scarcely know it now. Since 1949, this garden has been part of the Kokuritsu Kagaku Hakubutsukan (see p73), and aims to preserve the local flora in undisciplined profusion. There are wonderful walks through its forests, marshes and ponds, making this one of Tokyo’s least known and most appealing getaways. Bonus: admission is limited to 300 people at a time.

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⋡㤥඙⟤ⴚ㙚 %3714-1201; www.mmat.jp; 2-4-36 Meguro, Meguro-ku; adult/concession ¥1000/700; h10am6pm Tue-Sun; bJR Yamanote Line or subway Namboku or Mita Line to Meguro (west exit) Half local, half global, one part of this museum exhibits the work of Meguro artists, while the other is dedicated to international fine art and craft exhibits (think the work of Charles and Ray Eames). The building is a delight – it’s airy, spacious and well-lit compared with many other Tokyo art museums, which can want for space – and there’s a coffee shop with pleasant views of the grounds. Take the west exit of Meguro Station, walk straight ahead down Meguro-dōri and turn right just after crossing Meguro River (Meguro-gawa). Walk along the river and the museum is on your left, past the tennis court and swimming pool.

MEGURO PARASITOLOGICAL MUSEUM Map p102 ⋡㤥ነ↢⯻㙚 %3716-1264; 4-1-1 Shimo-Meguro, Meguro-ku; admission free; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; bJR Yamanote Line or subway Namboku or Mita Line to Meguro (west exit) Yeah, ew. Probably the grossest museum in Japan, this spot was established in 1953 by Satoru Kamegai, a local doctor concerned by the increasing number of parasites he was encountering in his practice due to unsanitary postwar conditions. The grisly centrepiece is an 8.8m-long tapeworm found ensconced in the body of a 40-year-old Yokohama man. Although there’s not a lot of English signage, little explanation is necessary (or even welcomed) as you can easily see how some of these nasties might set up house inside you. Fun for the whole family!

TOKYO METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHY Map p102 ᧲੩ㇺ౮⌀⟤ⴚ㙚 %3280-0099; www.syabi.com; 1-13-3 Mita, Meguroku; admission ¥500-1500; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; bHibiya or JR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (main exit) In a corner of Yebisu Garden Place, this fivestorey museum chronicles the history and contemporary use of still and moving images, and holds 23,000 works, roughly 70%

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NEIGHBOURHOODS EBISU, DAIKANYAMA & MEGURO

Skywalk

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NEIGHBOURHOODS EBISU, DAIKANYAMA & MEGURO

EbisuMinami ᕺᲧኼධ

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Monsoon ࡕࡦࠬ࡯ࡦࠞࡈࠚ .......24 C3 Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum ᧲੩ᐸ࿦⟤ⴚ㙚 ......... 12 D5 Mushroom ࡑ࠶ࠪ࡞࡯ࡓ .............. 25 B2 Rico's Kitchen SHOPPING (pp135–48) ࡝ࠦࠬࠠ࠶࠴ࡦ.............................26 D3 Daikanyama Address Toki no ma ᤨߩ㑆 ............................ 27 B3 ઍቭጊࠕ࠼࡟ࠬ ..........................13 A2 Zest Cantina Ebisu GDC ........................................................14 A2 ࠯ࠬ࠻ࠠࡖࡦ࠹ࠖ࡯࠽ Good Day Books ᕺᲧኼ................................................28 C3 ࠣ࠶࠼࠺ࠗࡉ࠶ࠢࠬ ...................15 C3 Hacknet ࡂ࠶ࠢࡀ࠶࠻ ................... 16 B2 ENTERTAINMENT (pp175–90) Kamawanu ߆߹ࠊߧ .......................17 A2 Liquid Room ࡝ࠠ࠶࠼࡞࡯ࡓ......29 C2 Matsuzakaya ᧻ဈደ......................... 18 B3 Milk ߺࠆߊ....................................... (see 31) Mitsukoshi ਃ⿧⊖⽻ᐫ ...................19 C4 Yebisu Garden Cinema Q Flagship Ebisu-nishi ᕺᲧኼࠟ࡯࠺ࡦࠪࡀࡑ ..............30 C4 ࡂ࠶ࠢࡀ࠶࠻ .............................. (see 16) Yebisu Garden Place DRINKING (pp175–90) ᕺᲧኼࠟ࡯࠺ࡦࡊ࡟࡯ࠬ..........20 C4 Footnik ࡈ࠶࠻࠷࠾࠶ࠢ............. (see 15) What the Dickens (pp149–74) EATING ࡢ࠶࠻ࠩ࠺ࠖࠤࡦ࠭ ................... 31 B3 Café Artifagose

SIGHTS (pp100–4) Beer Museum Yebisu ᕺᲧኼ㤈㈬⸥ᔨ㙚 .......................... 5 C3 Daien-ji (Daien Temple) ᄢ౞ኹ......6 C6 Meguro Gajoen (Meguro Wedding Hall) ⋡㤥㓷ค࿦ ........... 7 C6 Meguro Museum of Art, Tokyo ⋡㤥඙⟤ⴚ㙚.................................... 8 B5 Meguro Parasitological Museum ⋡㤥ነ↢⯻㙚.................................... 9 B6 Shizen Kyōiku-en (National ࠞࡈࠚࠕ࡞࠻ࡈࠔࠧࠬ............... 21 A2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191–200) Institute for Nature Study) Caffé Michelangelo Comm'Inn .............................................32 B3 ⥄ὼᢎ⢒࿦ ..................................... 10 D4 ࠞࡈࠚࡒࠤ࡜ࡦࠫࠚࡠ ..............22 A2 Konishi Japanese Cooking Class (pp201–16) SLEEPING Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Westin Hotel Tokyo ዊ⷏ࠫࡖࡄ࠾࡯࠭ Photography ᧲੩ㇺ౮⌀⟤ⴚ㙚........................11 C4 ࠢ࠶ࠠࡦࠣࠢ࡜ࠬ........................ 23 B5 ࠙ࠚࠬ࠹ࠖࡦࡎ࠹࡞᧲੩......... 33 D4

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EBISU, DAIKANYAMA & MEGURO INFORMATION Ebisu Eki-mae Post Office ᕺᲧኼ㚞೨ㇷଢዪ .......................... 1 Kōseichūō Hospital ෘ↢ਛᄩ∛㒮.................................... 2 Post Office ㇷଢዪ ............................... 3 Tokyo British Clinic ᧲੩ࡉ࡝࠹ࠖ࠶ࠪࡘ ࠢ࡝࠾࠶ࠢ ........................................ 4

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EBISU, DAIKANYAMA & MEGURO

TOKYO METROPOLITAN TEIEN ART MUSEUM Map p102 ᧲੩ᐸ࿦⟤ⴚ㙚 %3443-0201; www.teien-art-museum.ne.jp; 5-21-9 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku; admission ¥1000; h10am-6pm, closed 2nd & 4th Wed of the month; bNamboku Line to Shirokanedai (exit 1)

MEGURO GAJOEN (MEGURO WEDDING HALL) Map p102 ⋡㤥㓷ค࿦ %3491-4111; 1-8-1 Shimo-Meguro, Meguro-ku; admission free; bJR Yamanote Line or subway Namboku or Mita Line to Meguro (west exit) One look at the ads on virtually any subway car will tell you that wedding halls are big business in Tokyo. For better or for worse, Gajoen is one of the biggest, and as a study in anthropology you can hardly beat it. ‘Wedding hall’ doesn’t do justice to its many storeys of chapels, banquet halls, expensive restaurants and hotel rooms. The impossibly long corridor connecting them is lined with friezes of geisha and samurai and often festooned with flowers, while floor-to-ceiling windows look out on a drop-dead hillside garden. Even if there aren’t wedding bells in your future, it’s worth stopping by for a look.

S H I BU YA Eating p167; Shopping p141; Sleeping p211 Step out of Shibuya Station sometime after dark, and you’ll find yourself in the Tokyo of your dreams. At Shibuya Crossing, a mind-blowing spectacle of neon, streets radiate out like a starburst, and the crowd is a mix of diligently acquired elegance and adolescent exuberance. Much like New York’s Times Square and London’s Piccadilly Circus, Tokyo’s Shibuya Crossing is visual and aural candy at its best. Truth be told, Shibuya is not rich in history, and its paltry handful of sights pale in significance compared to those found in adjacent neighbourhoods. However, Shibuya is perhaps the best neighbourhood in Tokyo to take in the beating pulse of modern Japan by simply browsing, shopping, dining and watching the outrageous get-ups that have most recently come off the runways at Tokyo’s fashion shows. You will be rewarded here by putting down the guidebook and getting lost in the sea of rampant consumerism surrounding you. Shibuya is studded with department stores that vie for the patronage of cash-loaded young Japanese looking for their own unique fashion identity. The offshoots of the Tōkyū and Seibu department stores tend to be funkier than in other parts of the city, though the Tōkyū Hands (p142) is perhaps the gem among all of them. Shibuya, the neighbourhood, is at the centre of Shibuya ward, with nearly a million people within its bounds. Harajuku borders it to the north, Aoyama and Roppongi lie to the east and the sophisticated Ebisu and Daikanyama are just south. The most famous meeting place in Tokyo, which lies in front of Shibuya Station, is the Hachikō statue. This famous pooch even has his own exit from the station named after him, which is in fact the exit you should use for all of the sights listed in this section.

HACHIKŌ STATUE Map p106 ࡂ࠴౏௝ bJR Yamanote Line or subway Ginza Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit) In the 1920s, a professor who lived near Shibuya Station kept Hachikō, a small Akita dog, who came to the station every day to await his master’s return. The master died while at work in 1925, but the dog continued to show up and wait at the station until his own death 10 years later. Hachikō’s faithfulness was not lost on the Japanese, who built a statue to honour his memory. The story is more interesting than the statue itself, but Hachikō is perhaps Tokyo’s most famous meeting spot. The proud pooch is usually surrounded by hip-looking Tokyoites with mobiles in hand, coordinating the festivities to follow.

SHIBUYA CROSSING Map p106 ᷦ⼱ࠢࡠ࡯ࠪࡦࠣ bJR Yamanote Line or subway Ginza Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit) Across from Hachikō plaza is arguably one of the coolest intersections you will ever see in your life. Made famous in the West following Sofia Coppola’s Lost in Translation, Shibuya Crossing is remarkable for its throngs of people, blazing neon lights and enormous video screens, which sometimes

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display live videos of the street scene below. The sheer energy of the place is enough to stop you dead in your tracks while you loudly proclaim to yourself, ‘Wow – I’m in Tokyo!’

NEIGHBOURHOODS SHIBUYA

NEIGHBOURHOODS EBISU, DAIKANYAMA & MEGURO

Although this museum hosts art exhibitions (eg Meissen porcelain or pottery by important Japanese artists), its appeal lies principally in the building itself – it’s an Art Deco structure built in 1933, designed by French architect Henri Rapin. The interior details remain alluring, including etched tile trim, light fixtures sculpted to look like peaches and pumpkins, and the ‘perfume fountain’, sort of an early aromatherapy device. The house was originally home to Prince Asakano-miya (1887–1981), Emperor Hirohito’s uncle, who was pardoned for his part in

the ‘Rape of Nanjing’. It became a museum in 1983. The museum sits in the southwest corner of the Shizen Kyōiku-en (separate entrance and admission).

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of them Japanese. Displays often comprise exceptional work by photographers from both Japan and abroad, and there’s an extensive library of photographic literature from throughout the world.

LOVE HOTEL HILL Map p106 ࡜ࡧࡎ࠹࡞ࡅ࡞ bJR Yamanote Line or subway Ginza Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit) If you think that Japan is all about raked pebble gardens, geisha in kimono and Zen meditation, make a point of taking a stroll through Love Hotel Hill. Offering one of the largest concentrations of love hotels (see p202 for more details) in Tokyo, this famous hill is where most men and women out on the prowl hope the night will end. Depending on your tastes, you can bed down in a variety of themed hotels ranging from miniature Gothic castles and kitschy

TRANSPORT: SHIBUYA Train The JR Yamanote Line stops at Shibuya Station. You can also connect here to suburban private trains operated by the Tokyu and Keio Lines. Metro The Hanzōmon and Ginza Lines stop at Shibuya.

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Arabian palaces to traditional Japanesethemed inns and Balinese-inspired resorts. Although choosing where to go is the best part of visiting a love hotel (well, aside from the actual act itself ), our personal favourite is a particular Caribbean-themed love hotel with fake palm trees at the bedside – we’ll leave it to you to find it! To reach Love Hotel Hill, take the road up Dōgenzaka to the left of the Shibuya 109 building. At the top of the hill, on the side streets that run off the main road, is the main concentration of love hotels. Of course, the best way to get around this area is to meet a nice Japanese guy or girl to show you around! Also take note that should you need a little help enhancing your love life, nearby Love Hotel Hill is a variety of shops selling

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all sorts of herbal and chemical love tonics. Even if you read Japanese, it’s hard to know what the heck is in these things, though our sources tell us that these drugs will knock the socks off you and your partner.

TOBACCO & SALT MUSEUM Map p106 ߚ߫ߎߣႮߩඳ‛㙚 %3476-2041; www.jti.co.jp/Culture/museum/Wel come.html; 1-16-8 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku; admission ¥100; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; bJR Yamanote Line or subway Ginza Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit) For years, smokers have found solace in Tokyo’s cafés and bars, and for much of that time the government was in the business of supplying them through a tobacco monopoly. That company has since been privatised to Japan Tobacco Inc, which is the owner of this museum, a shrine to the

INFORMATION Across Travellers Bureau ࠕࠢࡠࠬ࠻࡜ࡌ࡞ .......................... 1 C3 Café J Net New New ࠞࡈࠚࠫ ࠚࠗࡀ࠶࠻࠾ࡘ࡯࠾ࡘ࡯............ 2 B2 HIS Travel ᩣᑼળ␠ࠛࠗ࠴࡮ࠕࠗ࡮ࠛࠬ .. 3 C3 Malaysian Embassy ࡑ࡟࡯ࠪࠕᄢ૶㙚 .......................... 4 B4 New Zealand Embassy ࠾ࡘ࡯ࠫ࡯࡜ࡦ࠼ᄢ૶㙚.......... 5 A2 No 1 Travel ࠽ࡦࡃ࡯ࡢࡦ࠻࡜ࡌ࡞................. 6 C2 Police Box ੤⇟..................................... 7 B3 Police Box ੤⇟..................................... 8 C3 Shibuya Police Station........................9 D3 Shibuya Post Office ᷦ⼱ㇷଢዪ.. 10 D3 SIGHTS (pp105–8) Bunkamura ᢥൻ᧛............................11 B3 Hachikō Statue ౎ජ౏௝................12 C3 Love Hotel Hill ࡜ࡉࡎ࠹࡞ࡅ࡞ ..13 B3 Shibuya Crossing ᷦ⼱ࠢࡠ࠶ࠪࡦࠣ ........................14 C3 Tepco Electric Energy Museum 㔚ജ㙚................................................15 C2 Tobacco & Salt Museum ߚ߫ߎߣႮߩඳ‛㙚 ...................16 C2 Toguri Museum of Art ᚭᩙ⟤ⴚ㙚 ......................................17 B3 Tokyo-to Jido Kaikan (Tokyo Metropolitan Children's Hall) ᧲੩ㇺఽ┬ળ㙚............................ 18 D2 SHOPPING (pp135–48) Beam Building ࡆ㧙ࡓࡆ࡞ ............19 B2 Loft ࡠࡈ࠻...........................................20 C3 Mandarake ߹ࠎߛࠄߌ................(see 19)

C2 NHK Hall NHK ࡎ࡯࡞....................... 41 B1 C2 Ruby Room ࡞ࡆ࡯࡞࡯ࡓ............. 42 B3 Shibuya O-East C3 ᷦ⼱ࠝ࡮ࠗ࡯ࠬ࠻........................ 43 B3 C3 Shibuya-Ax ᷦ⼱ࠕ࠶ࠢࠬ .............44 C1 Womb ࠙࡯ࡓ..................................... 45 B3 B3 C2 DRINKING (pp175–90) B2 Bello Visto ࡌࡠࡆࠬ࠻................. (see 53) B2 Chestnut & Squirrel .......................... 46 D3 Hub Pub ࡂࡉࡄࡉ ............................47 C3 EATING (pp149–74) Insomnia Lounge ࠗࡦ࠰ࡓ࠾ࠕ .48 C3 Coucagno ࠢ࡯ࠞ࡯࠾࡚............. (see 53) Pink Cow ࡇࡦࠢࠞ࠙ ..................... 49 D2 El Castellano ࠛ࡞ࠞࠬ࠹࡝ࡖ࡯ࡁ .................. 29 D3 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191–200) Kujiraya 㟗ደ .................................... (see 24) Eight Rent ࠛࠗ࠻࡟ࡦ࠻ ...............50 C3 Mayu (Cocoon) ➂..............................30 A2 (pp201–16) Okinawa ᴒ✽...................................... 31 B3 SLEEPING Shizenkan II ⥄ὼ㙚.......................... 32 D3 Arimax Hotel Sonoma ࠰ࡁࡑ............................... (see 42) ࠕ࡝ࡑ࠶ࠢࠬࡎ࠹࡞ ................... 51 B2 Capsule Land Shibuya......................52 B3 (pp175–90) Cerulean Tower Tōkyū Hotel ENTERTAINMENT Bunkamura Orchard Hall.............. (see 11) ࠮࡞࡝ࠕࡦ࠲ࡢ࡯᧲ᕆࡎ࠹࡞ 53 C4 Bunkamura Theatre Cocoon Creston Hotel ࠢ࡟ࠬ࠻ࡦࡎ࠹࡞54 B2 ᢥൻ᧛ࠪࠕ࠲࡯ࠦࠢ࡯ࡦ....... (see 11) Excel Tokyu Hotel Cerulean Tower Nō Theatre ࠛࠢ࠮࡞ࡎ࠹࡞᧲ᕆ ...................55 C3 ࠮࡞࡝ࠕࡦ࠲ࡢ࡯⢻ᭉၴ....... (see 53) Hotel Mets Shibuya Cine Amuse East/West ࡎ࠹࡞ࡔ࠶࠷ᷦ⼱........................56 C4 ࠪࡀࠕࡒࡘ࡯࠭............................. 33 B3 Shibuya City Hotel Cinema Rise ࠪࡀࡑ࡜ࠗ࠭............34 C2 ᷦ⼱ࠪ࠹ࠖࡎ࠹࡞........................ 57 B3 Club Asia ࠢ࡜ࡉࠕࠫࠕ ................. 35 B3 Shibuya Tōbu Hotel Club Quattro ࠢ࡜ࡉࠢࠕ࠻ࡠ ..... 36 B3 ᷦ⼱᧲ᱞࡎ࠹࡞.............................58 C2 Eggman ࠛ࠶ࠣࡑࡦ ........................37 C2 Shibuya Tōkyū Inn Eurospace ࡙࡯ࡠࠬࡍ࡯ࠬ........... 38 B3 ᷦ⼱᧲ᕆࠗࡦ .................................59 C3 JZ Brat ࠫࠚࠗ࠯࠶࠻ࡉ࡜࠶࠻ (see 53) (pp237–244) TRANSPORT Kanze Nō-gakudō (Kanze Nō Theatre) ⷰ਎⢻ᭉၴ . 39 B2 Shibuya Bus Terminal La.Mama ࡜ࡑࡑ ................................ 40 B3 ᷦ⼱ࡃࠬ࠲࡯ࡒ࠽࡞ ...................60 C3 Parco I ࡄ࡞ࠦࡄ࡯࠻ 1...................21 Parco II ࡄ࡞ࠦࡄ࡯࠻ 2..................22 RanKing RanQueen ࡜ࡦࠠࡦ࡜ࡦࠠࡦ........................23 Shibuya 109 ᷦ⼱ 109 ......................24 Shibuya Tōkyū Honten ᷦ⼱᧲ᕆᧄᐫ ................................. 25 Tower Records ࠲ࡢ࡯࡟ࠦ࡯࠼..26 Tsutsumu Factory ൮߻Ꮏᚱ .......... 27 Tōkyū Hands ᧲ᕆࡂࡦ࠭............... 28

bitter leaf, complete with pipes, paraphernalia and wood-block prints. Downstairs is a homage to Japanese modes of salt production, which until recently was conducted by cumbersome harvests from a reluctant sea. Among the exhibits is a grey, crystalline salt cylinder whose circumference could match that of a small whale. English signage is sadly limited, though the visual power of the exhibits here speaks for itself.

TEPCO ELECTRIC ENERGY MUSEUM Map p106

㔚ജ㙚 %3477-1191; 1-12-10 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku; admission free; h10am-6pm Thu-Tue; bJR Yamanote Line or subway Ginza Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit) Called Denryokukan, the Tepco Electric Energy Museum is the building on Jingū-dōri with the R2D2-shaped silver dome – it’s clearly visible from the Hachikō statue.

Operated by the Tokyo Electric Power Company, it offers seven floors of knowledge about electricity production and consumption; if you’re not fortunate enough to be invited to a Japanese home, the 4th-floor collection will give you a good idea of the state of the art. There are lots of hands-on exhibits, normally a hit with kids. Signage is almost entirely in Japanese, but there’s an excellent English handout on each floor.

BUNKAMURA Map p106 ᢥൻ᧛ %3477-9111; www.bunkamura.co.jp; 2-24-1 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; admission varies by event; hvary by event; bJR Yamanote Line or subway Ginza Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit) ‘Bunkamura’ means ‘culture village’ and it was Japan’s first crosscultural centre. Spinthe-globe exhibits feature the work of artists from Grandma Moses to Monet to Munakata Shikō as well as photographic displays by

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SHIBUYA

YOYOGI-KŌEN (YOYOGI PARK)

TOGURI MUSEUM OF ART Map p106

Sunday in Yoyogi-kōen used to be one of Tokyo’s prime attractions, when local bands gathered to give free concerts on the park’s pathways and kids in wild hairdos and 1950s get-ups gathered to gyrate to recorded rock and roll. Sadly, the police have put a stop to this and now Yoyogikōen is just another park. That said, with lots of wide open spaces and some flowering trees, it’s not a bad place for a picnic or playing some sport on the grass. It’s also worth a stop to view an early piece by architect Tange Kenzō, the National Gymnasium, which was built for the 1964 Olympics.

ᚭᩙ⟤ⴚ㙚 %3465-0070; www.toguri-museum.or.jp; 1-11-3 Shōto, Shibuya-ku; adult/child/student ¥1000/400/ 700; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun; bJR Yamanote Line or subway Ginza Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit) A few minutes’ walk from Bunkamura, the Toguri displays about 100 pieces at a time from its 7000-piece collection of fine Japanese, Korean and Chinese porcelain. The galleries are reasonably sized, there’s a pretty garden and the residential neighbourhood is so quiet that you’d never guess you’re just steps away from Shibuya’s hustle and bustle.

Map p106

ઍ‫౏ᧁޘ‬࿦ admission free; hdawn-dusk; bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku (Omote-sandō exit)

HAR A J U KU & AOYA M A Eating p168; Shopping p142 Few districts in Tokyo can offer as many contrasting styles and personalities as the adjacent neighbourhoods of Harajuku and Aoyama. The living, breathing souls of Harajuku are the aptly named ‘Harajuku girls’, who have been vaulted onto the global stage following the smash hit Rich Girl by American pop singer Gwen Stefani. Although Harajuku girls don’t exactly come from the hoods of Japan (Harajuku is in fact one of the most expensive strips of real estate in Tokyo), they are certainly an easily identifiable breed. With camera in hand, be sure to take a stroll down Takeshita-dori, or stop by the Sunday cos play (costume play) fashion show on Jingo-bashi – you’ll certainly photograph some interesting characters! If you cross the bridge and enter the grand, calming, tree-lined precincts of Meiji-jingū, you’ll quickly be transported back to old Japan. This serene shrine, which would probably be more at home in ancient Kyoto than in ultra-modern Tokyo, is one of the undeniable highlights of any trip to the capital. However, if you step just outside the shrine, and head east to the grand shopping boulevard of Omote-sandō, the contrasts continue. Home to the haut-est of haute couture, Omote-sandō is where Harajuku girls head when they grow up and earn a bit more cash. At the boulevard’s other end is Aoyama, domain of chic boutiques and ersatz Parisian cafés. Here too are fine museums, galleries and design stores, most notably Watari-Um (Watari Museum of Contemporary Art; p111) and the National Art Center, Tokyo (p99). Omote-sandō links Harajuku with Aoyama, which lie at the centre of the greater Shibuya ward. To the west is Shibuya and the broad expanse of Yoyogi Park, while to the east is Aoyama Cemetery and Roppongi. ᣿ᴦ␹ች Meiji Shrine; %3379-5511; www.meijijingu.or.jp; Kamizono-chō, Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku; admission free; hdawn-dusk; bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku (Omote-sandō exit) or Chiyoda Line to MeijiJingūmae (exit 3) Tokyo’s grandest Shintō shrine, this 1920 edifice enshrines the Emperor Meiji and Empress Shōken, under whose rule Japan ended its isolation from the outside world. Destroyed in WWII bombings and reconstructed in 1958, the shrine buildings occupy just a corner of the precinct’s 70 forested hectares (175 acres). In fact, its 100,000 trees are said to have been donated by 100,000 visitors from all over Japan. Meiji-jingū might be a reconstruction of the original but, unlike so many of Japan’s postwar reconstructions, it is altogether authentic. The main structure was built with prized hinoki cypress from the Kiso region of Nagano prefecture, while the cypress for the huge torii (gate) was imported from Alishan in Taiwan. If you’re there when a wedding is in progress, the procession is pure photographic gold. The grounds are also home to the Meijijingū Gyōen (admission ¥500; h9am-4.30pm), a lovely strolling garden. Once the property

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of two daimyō families, after it came under imperial control, Meiji himself designed the garden as a gift to the Empress Shōken. There are peaceful walks to the pond and teahouse and a good dose of privacy at weekdays, and spectacular irises and satsuki azaleas in season.

TAKESHITA-DŌRI (TAKESHITA STREET) Map p110 ┻ਅㅢࠅ bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku (Takeshita-dōri exit) This teeming alley, which lies at the heart of Harajuku, represents Tokyo’s propensity for both teenage kitsch and subcultural fetish. Boom boxes blare at full volume while young, angst-decorated adolescents browse through racks of cheap versions of the day’s latest trend. This is the place to

TRANSPORT: HARAJUKU & AOYAMA Train The JR Yamanote Line stops at Harajuku Station. Metro The Chiyoda Line runs beneath Omote-sandō, stopping at Omote-sandō Station and Meijijingūmae Station. The Ginza and Hanzōmon Lines also both stop at Omote-sandō Station.

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NEIGHBOURHOODS HARAJUKU & AOYAMA

NEIGHBOURHOODS SHIBUYA

MEIJI-JINGŪ (MEIJI SHRINE) Map p110

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the likes of Man Ray. It’s also a busy theatre, art house cinema and concert hall. It’s about seven minutes’ walk from Shibuya Station (turn right at the Shibuya 109 building).

500 m 0.3 miles

See Shinjuku Map p116

Police Box ੤⇟............................................1 C4

SIGHTS

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Design Festa ࠺ࠩࠗࡦ·ࡈࠚࠬ࠲................................2 C3 Jingū-bashi (Jingū Bridge) ␹ችᯅ..........................................................3 A4 Kodomo-no-Shiro (National Children's Castle) ߎߤ߽ߩၔ................................................ 4 B5 Meiji-jingū (Meiji Shrine) ᣿ᴦ␹ች.....................................................5 A2 Spiral Building ࠬࡄࠗ࡜࡞ࡆ࡞ .......... 6 C5 Ukiyo-e Ōta Memorial Art Museum ᶋ਎⛗ᄢ↰⸥ᔨ⟤ⴚ㙚....................... 7 B4 EATING (pp149–74) Watari-um (Watari Museum of Fonda de la Madrugada Contemporary Art) ࡈࠜࡦ࠳࠺࡜ ࡢ࠲࡝࠙ࡓ⟤ⴚ㙚.................................8 C3  ࡑ࠼࠘࡞ࠟ࡯࠳................................... 24 B3 Hannibal Deux SHOPPING (pp135–48) ࡂࡦ࠾ࡃ࡞ ࠼࠘.............................. 25 B2 A Bathing Ape Kinokuniya (Interim Store) ࠕ࡮ࡌࠗࠪࡦࠣ࡮ࠛࠗࡊ................. 9 D5 ♿ࡁ࿖ደ..................................................26 D4 Chicago Thrift Store ࠪࠞࠧ................ 10 B4 Kinokuniya International Commes des Garçons Supermarket ♿ࡁ࿖ደ...................... 27 D4 ࠦࡓ࠺ࠡࡖ࡞࠰ࡦ..............................11 D5 Las Chicas ࡜ࠬ࠴ࠞࠬ.......................... 28 B5 Condomania ࠦࡦ࠼ࡑ࠾ࠕ ............... 12 B4 Maisen ߹޿ᴰ .......................................... 29 C4 Fuji-Torii ߰ߓߣࠅ޿............................. 13 B4 Mominoki House Hanae Mori Building ࡕࡒࡁࠠࡂ࠙ࠬ................................... 30 C3 ࡂ࠽ࠛࡕ࡝ࡆ࡞................................... 14 C4 Nabi ࠽ࡆ .................................................... 31 C3 Hanae Mori Building Antique Natural Harmony Angolo Market ࠽࠴ࡘ࡜࡞ࡂ࡯ࡕ࠾࡯ ࡂ࠽ࠛࡕ࡝ࡆ࡞㛽⫃Ꮢ................. (see 14)  ࠕࡦࠧࡠ.................................................. 32 C3

look for outrageously gaudy jewellery, punk accessories, trendy hair boutiques, fast-food joints and cuddly toys. Also see p144.

JINGŪ-BASHI (JINGŪ BRIDGE) Map p110 ␹ችᯅ bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku (Takeshita-dōri exit) The epicentre of the Harajuku cos-play (costume play) scene, Jingū Bridge is best experienced on a warm and sunny Sunday afternoon when legions of bizarrely dressed teens parade before photographers as if they were on a Milan catwalk. From Lolitas and goths to French maids and anime characters, you never really know what will appear here!

35

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(pp109–12)

Hysteric Glamour ࡅࠬ࠹࡝࠶ࠢࠣ࡜ࡕ࡯.................... 15 A4 Issey Miyake ਃቛ৻↢ .......................... 16 C5 Kiddyland ࠠ࠺ࠗ࡜ࡦ࠼ ..................... 17 B4 Laforet Building ࡜ࡈࠜ࡯࡟.............. 18 B4 Oriental Bazaar ࠝ࡝ࠛࡦ࠲࡞ࡃࠩ࡯࡞.................... 19 B4 Spiral Records ࠬࡄࠗ࡜࡞࡟ࠦ࡯࠼.........................(see 6) Tōgō-jinja Fine Arts Market ᧲ㇹ␹␠㛽⫃Ꮢ................................... 20 B3 Undercover ࠕࡦ࠳࡯ࠞࡃ࡯............. 21 D5 Uniqlo ࡙࠾ࠢࡠ ...................................... 22 B4 Yohji Yamamoto ጊᧄ⠦ม ................. 23 D5

See Ebisu, Daikanyama & Meguro Map p102

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UKIYO-E OTA MEMORIAL ART MUSEUM Map p110 ᶋ਎⛗ᄢ↰⸥ᔨ⟤ⴚ㙚 %3403-0880; www.ukiyoe-ota-muse.jp/english .html; 1-10-10 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; adult ¥700, student ¥200-500 Tue-Sun, student free-¥250 Sat & Sun; h10.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun, closed 27th-end of the month; bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku (Omote-sandō exit), or Chiyoda Line to Meijijingūmae (exit 5)

Natural House ♿ࡁ࿖ደ ...................... 33 C5 Nobu ା ....................................................... 34 D6 Tetsugen Nikusho ㏽₵⡺අ................................................35 B5

ENTERTAINMENT

(pp175–90)

Aoyama Enkei Gekijō 㕍ጊ౞ᒻ഍႐ .......................................(see 4) Crocodile ࠢࡠࠦ࠳ࠗ࡞ .......................36 B4 Kokuritsu Nō-Gakudō (National Nō Theatre) ࿖┙⢻ᭉၴ................... 37 C1

DRINKING

(pp175–90)

Den Aquaroom ࠺ࡦࠕࠢࠕ࡞࡯ࡓ ............................. 38 D5 Tokyo Apartment Café ᧲੩ࠕࡄ࡯࠻ࡔࡦ࠻ࠞࡈࠚ ..........39 B4

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

(pp191–200)

Jingū Baseball Stadium ␹ች⃿႐ ................................................. 40 D2 Meiji-jingū Ice Skating Rink ᣿ᴦ␹ችࠕࠗࠬࠬࠤ࡯࠻႐ ......... 41 D1 National Stadium ࿖┙┹ᛛ႐........... 42 D2 Ohara School of Ikebana ዊේᵹ޿ߌ߫ߥ .................................. 43 C5 Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium Indoor Pool ᧲੩૕⢒㙚ࡊ࡯࡞........................... 44 C1

SLEEPING

(pp201–16)

National Children's Castle Hotel ሶଏߩၔࡎ࠹࡞ ..................................(see 4)

This cosy museum, which asks that you trade your shoes for a pair of slippers at the door, has an excellent collection of ukiyo-e (wood-block prints). The original collector, Ota Seizo, former head of the Toho Life Insurance Company, began to buy ukiyoe when he realised that many important examples of Japanese wood-block prints belonged to foreign museums, making it impossible for Japanese to view many of the genre’s masterworks. The museum usually displays no more than a few dozen works at a time from its collection of over 10,000 prints, including those by masters of the art such as Hokusai and Hiroshige.

WATARI-UM (WATARI MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART) Map p110 ࡢ࠲࡝࠙ࡓ⟤ⴚ㙚 %3402-3001; www.watarium.co.jp; 3-7-6 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; adult/student ¥1000/800; h11am-7pm Tue & Thu-Sun, 11am-9pm Wed; bGaienmae (exit 3) This progressive and often provocative museum was built in 1990 to a design by Swiss architect Mario Botta. Exhibits are always cutting-edge and sometimes artyfarty – think push-the-envelope photos

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NEIGHBOURHOODS HARAJUKU & AOYAMA

NEIGHBOURHOODS HARAJUKU & AOYAMA

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HARAJUKU & AOYAMA INFORMATION

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0 0

HARAJUKU & AOYAMA

1 Laforet Building (࡜ࡈࠜ࡯࡟ࡆ࡞)

2 Design Festa (࠺ࠩࠗࡦࡈࠚࠬ࠲) One of the strangest buildings in Aoyama, the headquarters of Design Festa (%3479-1433; 3-2018 Jingūmae; h11am-8pm) looks like an industrial, spider-webbed diorama, though the space is actually home to a slew of galleries. Design Festa is also responsible for the enormous art and design festival (p18) that takes place biannually at the Tokyo Big Sight (p133).

5 Tod’s (࠻࠶࠭) The Tokyo home of Italian

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WALK FACTS Start Harajuku JR Station (Omote-sandō exit) End Omote-sandō subway station Distance 2.5km Time One to two hours with stops

6 Hanae Mori Building (ࡂ࠽ࠛࡕ࡝ࡆ

7 Spiral Building (ࠬࡄࠗ࡜࡞ࡆ࡞)

SPIRITED AWAY TO THE GHIBLI MUSEUM

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looking to do a bit of antiquing, the basement of the building is home to a bustling market of more than 30 stalls.

࡞) The exquisitely mirrored surface of this building was designed by Tange Kenzō, one of Japan’s most influential architects. For anyone

2

1

footwear designer Tod’s, this shoe store (%64192055; 5-1-15 Jingūmae) is one of the most distinguished buildings in Aoyama. Wrapped in glass and supporting beams whose shapes reflect the winter-bared branches of the Zelkova trees along Omote-sandō, architect Toyo Ito’s structure makes a statement while echoing the elements of its environment.

When you saw Spirited Away by Miyazaki Hayao (or Princess Mononoke, Howl’s Moving Castle, My Neighbour Totoro and so on) you probably fell in love with its mythical themes, fanciful characters and outrageous landscapes. Needless to say, do did every kid in Japan, which means you need to arrange tickets long before you arrive at this museum (%general information 0570-055777, tickets 0570-000777; www.ghibli-museum.jp/ticket/overseas.html; 1-1-83 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka-shi; adult ¥1000, child ¥100-700; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon; bTōzai or JR Chūō Line to Mitaka, south exit) of the work of Ghibli, Miyazaki’s animation studio. Galleries walk you through the process of animation from concept to screen (English-speaking guides are usually on hand). Other highlights include a zoetrope presentation of a half-dozen Ghibli characters in motion, a mini-theatre presenting short films (in Japanese but usually easy enough to follow), a garden on the roof that sits beneath a 5m-tall robot from the Castle in the Sky, and a gift shop with exclusive themed merchandise (though much of it at exclusive prices). Special exhibits change annually. To top off the visit, every visitor is given an original frame from one of Miyazaki’s films. From Mitaka Station, follow the signposted walk along the Tamagawa Waterworks for 15 minutes to Inokashira Park, and turn right. Alternatively, a community bus (one way/return ¥200/300, approximately every 10 minutes) goes directly to the museum from the Mitaka Station.

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Meijijing¥mae

4 Louis Vuitton Building (࡞ࠗࡧࠖ࠻ࡦ ࡆ࡞) For several years running, the Japanese have had something of a love affair with Louis Vuitton, which is why this flagship store (%34782100; 5-7-5 Jingūmae; h11am-8pm) is usually packed wall-to-wall with shoppers. Meant to evoke a stack of clothes trunks, Jun Aoki’s design features offset panels of tinted glass behind sheets of metal mesh of varying patterns, creating a fabric-like effect.

500 m 0.3 miles

Designed by Tokyo architectural luminary Fumihiko Maki, the first floor of this building is dramatically crowned by a semicylinder. Inside you’ll find a listening station featuring Japanese and world music and an exhibition hall with displays of everything from fashion and accessories to sculpture and photography. If you have some time, it’s worth ascending the whimsical spiral ramp to a museum-style gift shop located on the 2nd floor.

7

9

MinamiAoyama ධ㕍ጊ

8 Commes des Garçons Building (ࠦࡓ࠺ ࠡࡖ࡞࠰ࡦ) The sloped windows of Kawakubo Rei’s flagship store (see p144 for more information) mildly prepare you for the architectural gems lying inside. Step through the entrance and admire the wares on display, which occupy minimalist, curvaceous spaces arranged in a disorienting maze of tilted walls.

9 Prada Aoyama Building (ࡊ࡜࠳㕍ጊ ࡆ࡞) Your final stop on the walking tour is this dazzling store (%6418-0400; 5-2-6 MinamiAoyama), which was designed by Swiss architects Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron. The resulting building is a weirdly organic, bubble-surfaced crystal of a venue in which the goods almost play a secondary role. The exterior itself is stunning, with its panels of convex glass, but the design of the interior’s six floors almost deceives the senses into seeing the space as a seamless whole. Once you’ve had your fill of architecture, turn back towards the Omote-sandō intersection; it’s just a few minutes’ walk to the Omote-sandō subway station.

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NEIGHBOURHOODS HARAJUKU & AOYAMA

NEIGHBOURHOODS HARAJUKU & AOYAMA

Ascend the circular interior as if in a shopping-focused video game, and you’ll soon discover the uniquely confusing half-floors of this building (for more information see p144), a popular shopping beacon in Aoyama. Of course, don’t spend too much time here as you still need to explore the surrounding neighbourhood. Around the corner you’ll find a number of experimental storefronts, many of them belonging to cutting-edge fashion boutiques.

START

Harajuku

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From the cos-play kids of Harajuku to the high-stepping fashionistas of Aoyama, Omote-sandō stretches out in a veritable catwalk of style and architecture.

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AOYAMA ARCHITECTURE

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Walking Tour

latest Mori development pales in comparison to the architectural splendour that is Roppongi Hills (p94), though this coveted strip of upscale boutiques and apartments is still one of the city’s elite domains of the rich and privileged. Originally built as public housing after the Great Kantō Earthquake left half the city homeless, today Mori Hills is easily recognisable by its long and elegant glass façade.

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AOYAMA ARCHITECTURE

3 Omotesandō Hills (⴫ෳ㆏ࡅ࡞࠭) The

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by Larry Clark, or vacuum-cleaner ballets choreographed by visiting Scandinavians. There’s an excellent art bookshop called On Sundays (%3470-1424; hhours vary) where you can browse through its enormous collection of obscure postcards.

TOKYO FOR FREE

WEST SHINJUKU (NISHI-SHINJUKU) TOKYO OPERA CITY Map p116 ᧲੩ࠝࡍ࡜ࠪ࠹ࠖ %5353-0770; www.operacity.jp; 3-20-2 NishiShinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; bKeio New Line to Hatsudai (north exit) Since opening in 1997, Tokyo Opera City has been recognised as one of the world’s most acoustically perfect concert halls, and this in a city that embraces classical music with fervour. It’s also one of the most architecturally daring, like a giant indoor A-frame.

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Even if you are unable to make it to a concert in Tokyo, Opera City is called home by two of Tokyo’s best art spaces. The two storeys of the Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery (%5353-0756; www.operacity.jp/ag; 3rd fl; admis-

TRANSPORT: SHINJUKU Train The JR Yamanote Line, JR Chūō Line and several other commuter lines stop at Shinjuku Station. The private Keio and Odakyū Lines come in handy for destinations west of the Yamanote Line. Metro The Marunouchi, Toei Shinjuku and Toei Ōedo Lines run through Shinjuku.

If you’ve been here for a few days, you’ve probably learned that yen is easy enough to spend quickly in the metropolis. To balance your budget, consider the many things to do that are completely free. These suggestions will cost no more than the train ticket to get to them. For an idea of current goings-on, including some freebies, check the website of Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO; www.jnto.go.jp).

Parks Unlike Tokyo’s gardens, most of Tokyo’s parks are free (Shinjuku-gyōen is the big exception to this rule), and provide a welcome escape from the omnipresent concrete and urban sprawl. Just grab a bentō (boxed lunch) and/or some baked bread and you’ve got yourself a picnic. Good spots are Kitanomaru-kōen (p51) near the Imperial Palace, Yoyogi-kōen (p108) near Harajuku, Ueno-kōen (p70) and Hibiya-kōen (p61) near Ginza.

Galleries Most private galleries don’t charge admission. Indeed, these galleries are often rented by individual artists who are delighted to help cultivate interest in their work. Ginza and Harajuku are the best places to hunt for them. Department store galleries (on upper floors) are another good bet – if these are not free, admission is often cheaper than a museum entry fee.

Temples & Shrines Shrines are almost always free in Tokyo and most temples charge only to enter their honden (main hall). Sensō-ji (p85) in Asakusa and Meiji-jingū (p109) in Harajuku are two good places to start.

Company Showrooms So they’re really just another form of advertising, but some showrooms in Tokyo are like small museums and most have hands-on displays and test-drives – all for free. Auto enthusiasts will love Toyota Mega Web (p132) in Odaiba, and just about everyone will find something intriguing at the Sony Building (p61) in Ginza. Other showrooms can be found in Ginza, Shinjuku and Harajuku.

Tsukiji Market Wander the world’s biggest fish market (p64) for hours at no cost.

Skyscrapers Several skyscrapers have free observation floors, eg Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices (Tokyo Tochō; p116), Shinjuku Sumitomo Building (p118) and Tokyo Big Sight (Tokyo International Exhibition Centre; p133).

Bookshops Unlike some other countries, in Japan no one will object to you spending hours reading books and magazines on display in bookshops. There’s even a word for the practice: yomitachi (a standing read). See Tokyo’s Bookshops (p143) for listings. sion varies by exhibition; h11am-7pm Tue-Thu & Sun, 11am-8pm Fri & Sat) showcase work by new and established Japanese artists. Meanwhile the NTT Intercommunication Centre (ICC; %0120-144-199; www.ntticc.or.jp; 4th fl; adult ¥800, student ¥600-400; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) has an excellent collection of cutting-edge works and installations that address the myriad intersections of art

and technology. Its superlative video library includes important works by artists such as Idemitsu Mako, Bill Viola and Nam June Paik, while installations on display include dreamy pieces such as works by Laurie Anderson, or Mikami Seiko’s World, Membrane and the Dismembered Body, designed especially for the museum’s eerie, echo-free chamber.

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NEIGHBOURHOODS SHINJUKU

NEIGHBOURHOODS SHINJUKU

Eating p169; Shopping p145; Sleeping p213 Shinjuku is anything but camera shy. Here, Bill Murray caught his first, jet-lagged glimpses of Tokyo in Lost in Translation, and Ridley Scott was rumoured to have drawn inspiration for his cult classic Blade Runner. More than any other neighbourhood, Shinjuku represents Tokyo’s sensory overload and breakneck pace. Its neon canyons crackle with an energy drawn from somewhere in the future, and its laissez-faire attitude draws 20- and 30-something party people to tiny nightspots stacked storeys high. Shinjuku’s raison d’être is its enormous commuter train station, which is the second largest in the world, and services an estimated 3.5 million passengers each day. This station also effectively divides Shinjuku into two very distinct neighbourhoods. The west side, Nishi-Shinjuku, which was once the site of a sizable reservoir, is now dominated by skyscraping office towers, luxury hotels and the imposing Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices, all connected by wide avenues that are definitely more New York than old Edo. A number of compelling museums have also brought contemporary art to the area, and played their part in rounding out the corporate edge. Not to be outdone by its higher-stepping other half, Shinjuku’s east side is spontaneous chaos, an area to wander with your neck craning up and around. Chief attractions here include the shrine Hanazono-jinja (p119), site of a great Sunday morning flea market, and the colourful if sleazy Kabukichō (p119) and Golden Gai (p119) entertainment areas. Tokyo’s gay district, Shinjuku-nichōme, is also located in East Shinjuku, and is perhaps one of the liveliest queer neighbourhoods in Asia. Just beyond, the park Shinjuku-gyōen (p119) remains one of Tokyo’s favourite spots for cherry-blossom viewing in the spring, and a calming respite at other times. Shinjuku is bordered by Harajuku to the south, greater Akasaka and the outskirts of the Imperial Palace to the east and Ikebukuro to the north. Shinjuku Station is the city’s biggest transit hub and the one everyone warns you about: take the wrong exit and you may find yourself a half-hour away from your destination. Yes, it is daunting, but here are some general guidelines. The classic rendezvous point opposite the station’s east exit, across Shinjuku-dōri, is in front of the Studio Alta building with its huge video screen. Continuing through the side streets away from the station, you’ll reach Yasukuni-dōri with its neon buildings, and beyond that the bawdy district of Kabukichō. Isetan (p146) and Mitsukoshi (p136) department stores and Shinjukunichōme are to the east via Shinjuku-dōri or Yasukuni-dōri (Shinjuku-sanchōme Station is the closest station for these locations). If you’re heading for the skyscrapers, there is a pedestrian tunnel towards Tochōmae Station on the Toei Ōedo Line, which may be the easier stop depending on your destination. There’s also a south exit, which is the closest access to Shinjuku-gyōen and the Takashimaya Times Square shopping complex.

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SHINJUKU

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See Harajuku & Aoyama Map p110

Shibuya-ku ᷦ⼱඙

᧲੩ㇺᐡ %5321-1111; 2-8-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; admission free; hobservatories 9.30am-11pm, north observatory closed 2nd & 4th Mon of the month, south observatory closed 1st & 3rd Tue of the month; bToei Ōedo Line to Tochōmae, (exit A3) Known as Tokyo Tochō, this grey granite complex designed by Tange Kenzō has stunning, distinctive architecture and great views from the observatories (%5320-7890) on the 45th floor of the twin towers of Building 1. On a clear day, look west for a glimpse of Mt Fuji. Back on the ground, stand in the Citizens Plaza and look up at Building 1 and see if it does not remind

Sendagaya ජ㚝ࡩ⼱

you of a computer-chip version of the great cathedrals of Europe. There’s even a ‘rose window’, only this being Tokyo the rose is replaced by a gingko leaf, in honour of the city’s official tree. With several modern sculptures scattered about, this is a good spot for a picnic lunch.

JAPANESE SWORD MUSEUM Map p116

ಷ೶ඳ‛㙚 %3379-1386; 4-25-10 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku; adult/student ¥525/315; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; bKeio New Line to Hatsudai (east exit) In 1948, after American forces returned the swords (katana) they’d confiscated during the postwar occupation, the Ministry of Education established a society to

INFORMATION Across Travellers Bureau ࠕࠢࡠࠬ࠻࡜ࡌ࡞ .......................... 1 Citibank ࠪ࠹ࠖࡃࡦࠢ...................... 2 Manga@Café Gera Gera ߹ࠎ߇༛⨥ࠥ࡜ࠥ࡜ ..................... 3 No 1 Travel ࠽ࡦࡃ࡯ࡢࡦ࠻࡜ࡌ࡞................. 4 Sakura House ࠨࠢ࡜ࡂ࠙ࠬ ........... 5 Shinjuku Main Post Office ᣂኋਛᄩㇷଢዪ............................... 6 Shinjuku Ward Office ᣂኋ඙ᓎᚲ ........................................ 7 Studio Alta Building ࠬ࠲ࠫࠝࠕ࡞࠲............................... 8 Tokyo Tourist Information Center ᧲੩ⷰశ᩺ౝ࠮ࡦ࠲࡯................. 9

B3 B3 C1 C2 C1

Kinokuniya ♿દ࿡ደ .......................20 Kinokuniya ♿દ࿡ደ .......................21 Sakuraya ߐߊࠄ߿ ...........................22 Sakuraya ߐߊࠄ߿ ...........................23 Sekaidō ਎⇇ၴ ................................. 24 Tōkyū Hands ᧲ᕆࡂࡦ࠭...............25 Yodobashi Camera ࡛࠼ࡃࠪࠞࡔ࡜.............................26

C3 C2 C2 C2 D2 C3 B2

EATING (pp149–74) B2 Christon Café ࠢ࡝ࠬ࠻ࡦࠞࡈࠚ27 D2 Imahan ੹ඨ........................................28 C3 C2 Isetan દ൓ਤ ................................... (see 19) Kinkantei ߈ࠎ߆ࠎ੪ ..................... 29 D2 C2 Kushiya-monogatari .........................30 C2 New York Grill A2 ࠾ࡘ࡯࡛࡯ࠢࠣ࡝࡞ ................ (see 53) Omoide-yokochō ᕁ޿಴ᮮৼ ......31 C2 SIGHTS (pp114–7) Park Hyatt Delicatessen Greenhouse ........................................ 10 D3 ࡄ࡯ࠢࡂࠗࠕ࠶࠻࠺ Hanazono-jinja (Hanazono ࡝ࠞ࠹࠶࠮ࡦ .............................. (see 53) Shrine) ⧎࿦␹␠ ........................... 11 D2 Takashimaya Times Square Japanese Sword Museum 㜞ፉደ࠲ࠗࡓ࠭ࠬࠢࠛࠕ..........32 C3 ಷ೶ඳ‛㙚 ..................................... 12 A4 NTT Intercommunication (pp175–90) ENTERTAINMENT Centre..............................................(see 16) Loft ࡠࡈ࠻ ..........................................33 C1 Sompo Japan Museum of Art ៊଻ࠫࡖࡄࡦ᧲ㇹ㕍ఽ⟤ⴚ㙚 13 B2 New National Theatre Teahouse ............................................. 14 D3 ᣂ࿖┙഍႐ ................................... (see 16) Shinjuku Pit Inn Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices ᧲੩ㇺᐡ.............................15 B2 ᣂኋࡇ࠶࠻ࠗࡦ............................ 34 D2 Space Zero ࠬࡍ࡯ࠬ࠯ࡠ.............. 35 B3 Tokyo Opera City ᧲੩ࠝࡍ࡜ࠪ࠹ࠖ ....................... 16 A4 (pp175–90) Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery.......(see 16) DRINKING Toto Super Space...............................17 B2 Advocates Café ࠕ࠼ࡏࠤࠗ࠷ࠞࡈࠚ .................. 36 D2 SHOPPING (pp135–48) Albatross ࠕ࡞ࡃ࠻ࡠࠬ .............. (see 31) Disk Union ࠺࡙ࠖࠬࠢ࠾ࠝࡦ .....18 C2 Arty Farty ࠕ࡯࠹ࠖࡈࠔ࡯࠹ࠖ .................. 37 D2 Hanazono-jinja Flea Market ⧎࿦␹␠ࡈ࡝࡯ࡑ࡯ࠤ࠶࠻ ..(see 11) Aurora Lounge Isetan દ൓ਤ ..................................... 19 D2 ࠝ࡯ࡠ࡜࡜࠙ࡦࠫ..................... (see 52)

preserve the feudal art of Japanese swordmaking. There are about 120 swords with their fittings in the collection, of which about a third are on view at any one time. The museum also showcases crafts of tempering and polishing steel. Its location, in a residential neighbourhood, is not obvious, but if you ask for the Token Hakubutsukan, someone should be able to help you.

SOMPO JAPAN MUSEUM OF ART Map p116

៊଻ࠫࡖࡄࡦ᧲ㇹ㕍ఽ⟤ⴚ㙚 %5777-8600; www.sompo-japan.co.jp/museum /english/index.html; 42nd fl, 1-26-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; adult/student ¥500/300; h10am6pm Tue-Sun; bJR Shinjuku (west exit)

Bar Plastic Model ࡃ࡯ࡊ࡜ࠬ࠴࠶ࠢࡕ࠺࡞......... 38 D2 Bon's ࡏࡦ࠭....................................... 39 D2 Clubhouse ࠢ࡜ࡉࡂ࠙ࠬ ............. 40 D2 Dubliners ࠳ࡉ࡝࠽࡯࠭.................41 C2 Garam ࠟ࡜ࡓ.....................................42 C2 GB........................................................... 43 D2 Kinswomyn ࠠࡦ࠭࠙ࡒࡦ............ 44 D2 La Jetée ࡜ࠫࠚ࠶࠹ࠗ................... 45 D2 New York Grill and Bar ࠾ࡘ࡯࡛࡯ࠢࠣ࡝࡞ ................ (see 53) Sky Bar Polestar ࠬࠞࠗࡃ࡯ࡐ࡯࡞ࠬ࠲࡯....... (see 52) SLEEPING (pp201–16) City Hotel Lonestar ࠪ࠹ࠖࡎ࠹࡞ࡠࡦࠬ࠲࡯......... 46 D2 Green Plaza Shinjuku ࠣ࡝࡯ࡦࡊ࡜ࠩᣂኋ ...................47 C1 Hilton Tokyo ࡅ࡞࠻ࡦ᧲੩...........48 A2 Hotel Century Southern Tower ࡎ࠹࡞࠮ࡦ࠴ࡘ࡝࡯ ࠨࠩࡦ࠲ࡢ࡯ .................................49 C3 Hotel Sunlite Shinjuku ࡎ࠹࡞ࠨࡦ࡜ࠗ࠻ᣂኋ ............. 50 D2 Hyatt Regency Tokyo ࡂࠗࠕ࠶࠻࡝࡯ ࠫࠚࡦࠪ࡯᧲੩.............................51 A2 Keiō Plaza Hotel ੩₺ࡊ࡜ࠩࡎ࠹࡞........................ 52 B2 Park Hyatt Tokyo ࡄ࡯ࠢࡂࠗࠕ࠶࠻᧲੩ ..............53 A3 Shinjuku Park Hotel ᣂኋࡄ࡯ࠢࡎ࠹࡞........................54 C3 Shinjuku Prince Hotel ᣂኋࡊ࡝ࡦࠬࡎ࠹࡞ ...................55 C1 Tokyo Business Hotel ᧲੩ࡆࠫࡀࠬࡎ࠹࡞ .................. 56 D2 (pp237–44) TRANSPORT Shinjuku West Exit Bus Terminal ᣂኋ⷏ญࡃࠬ࠲࡯ࡒ࠽࡞......... 57 B2

The private museum of the Sompo Japan insurance company concentrates most heavily on the lithography, sculpture and painting of Tōgō Seiji (1897–1980), whose subjects, most often women, resemble luminescent anime figures set against backdrops that hover between cubist and Art Deco. Tōgō was closely associated with the Sompo Japan’s forerunner, Yasuda Fire & Marine Insurance Company, and donated many of his works to the museum. The museum also caused a stir back in the 1980s bubble, when it famously purchased Van Gogh’s Sunflowers for a cool ¥5 billion; there are also a limited number of works by Gauguin, Cézanne and Van Gogh. The museum’s 42nd floor location also affords excellent views.

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Walking Tour

Looking up as you walk the streets of NishiShinjuku may put a kink in your neck, while peering down from those skyscrapers will make your jaw drop (smog willing). Within these towering structures lie delights as unexpected as a toilet gallery, the world’s largest pendulum clock and Matisse originals.

1 Shinjuku L Tower (ᣂኋL࠲ࡢ࡯) For anyone interested in test-driving the latest in bidet technology, the Shinjuku L Tower is home to the Toto Super Space (%3345-1010; 1-6-1 Nishi-Shinjuku; h10am-6pm, closed 1st & 3rd Mon), a hightech bathroom showcase scenically perched on the building’s 26th and 27th floors. Although Japan first-timers may be initially resistant to the, um, invasiveness of the spray, our recommendation is simply to relax your muscles and give in to the warm rush of water. ࡖࡄࡦ᧲ㇹ㕍ఽ⟤ⴚ㙚) The Sompo Japan Museum of Art (for more information see

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3 Pentax Forum (ࡍࡦ࠲࠶ࠢࠬࡈࠜ࡯࡜ ࡓ) Even non-photography buffs will appreciate the photo exhibits at this gallery (%33482941; 2-1-1 Nishi-Shinjuku; h10.30am-6.30pm), on the 1st floor of the Shinjuku Mitsui building. For true camera buffs, however, the best part is the vast array of Pentax cameras, lenses and other optical equipment on display. It’s completely hands-on – you can snap away with the cameras and spy into neighbouring buildings through the huge 1000mm lenses.

4 Shinjuku Sumitomo Building (ᣂኋ૑ ෹ࡆ࡞) Although this hollowed-out building is home to a large jewellery mall and a general shopping centre, the real attraction is the free observation platform on the 51st floor. Stop by for a quick bird’s-eye view of the urban jungle that is Shinjuku.

5 Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices (᧲੩ㇺᐡ) By now you’ve no doubt noticed the towering Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices (for more information see p116) where some 13,000 government workers sweat over the administrative paperwork of running Tokyo in these buildings. The Citizen’s Plaza features shops, restaurants, a passport section and, curiously, a blood donation room, though the views from the 45thfloor observation platform in Building No 1 are some of the best in the city.

6 Shinjuku NS Building (ᣂኋNSࡆ࡞) If you’re in the mood for a bit of eccentric high tech, the interior of this building, is hollow, like the Sumitomo building and features a 1600-sq-metre area from which you can gaze upward at the transparent roof. Overhead, at 110m, is a sky bridge. The square itself features a 29m pendulum clock, listed by the Guinness Book of Records as the largest in the world. 7 Park Hyatt Delicatessen (ࡄ࡯ࠢࡂࠗ

Ÿ aid ¥-K Ÿsh Mayndz Tower

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ࠕ࠶࠻࠺࡝ࠞ࠹࠶࠮ࡦ) If you’re looking for a rewarding nosh, the Park Hyatt Delicatessen (see p170 for more information) could easily compete with the best Jewish delis in New York.

EAST SHINJUKU (SHINJUKU) KABUKICHŌ Map p116 ᱌⥰પ↸ bJR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku (east exit) Tokyo’s most notorious red-light district, which lies east of Shinjuku Station and north of Yasukuni-dōri, is made up of soaplands (massage parlours), love hotels, peep shows, pink cabarets, porn booths, prostitutes and strip shows, all well attended by drunken salarymen out for the night. Female voices wail out invitations, while Japanese (and, increasingly, foreign) punks eke out a living passing out ads for karaoke boxes and peep shows. Remarkably, the area is generally safe (and much more interesting) to walk through at night, though it’s wise to go with a friend or more or you may find yourself the object of unwanted, and irritating, attention (both for males and females). However, most places are aimed solely at Japanese clients, hence foreigners are not permitted in most places.

GOLDEN GAI Map p116 ࠧ࡯࡞࠺ࡦⴝ bMarunouchi Line to Shinjuku-sanchōme (exit B3) This ramshackle block of tiny boîtes became golden just in time for the ‘64 Olympics. By day, there’s not much going on here except for dozens of stray cats. But by night, the closet-sized bars, some accessed by stairways steep enough to bruise your shins as you ascend, light and fill up, mostly with off-duty office workers. There’s been much speculation about the demise of Golden Gai’s rickety structures and narrow alleyways, but for the moment it seems a new generation is buying in and quietly setting up shop.

HANAZONO-JINJA (HANAZONO SHRINE) Map p116 ⧎࿦␹␠ %3200-3093; 5-17 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h24hr; bMarunouchi or Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-sanchōme (exit B3 or B5) During the day merchants from nearby Kabukichō come to this Shintō shrine to pray for the solvency of their business ventures, but at night the spotlights come on, legions of high school kids and salarymen show up, and action spills over from nearby Golden Gai and from further-away Yasu-

kuni-dōri. On Sunday the grounds become a marketplace (h8am-4pm), where you’ll find bargains on knick-knacks and, possibly, some antiques.

SHINJUKU-GYŌEN (SHINJUKU PARK) Map p116

ᣂኋᓮ⧞ %3350-0151; www.shinjukugyoen.go.jp; 11 Naito-chō, Shinjuku-ku; adult/child under 6/6-15 yrs ¥200/free/50; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun; bMarunouchi Line to Shinjuku-gyōenmae (exit 1) Though Shinjuku-gyōen was designed as an imperial retreat (completed 1906), it’s now definitively a park for everyone. The wide lawns and diverse design (the garden applies French, English and Japanese horticultural principles) make it a favourite for urbanites in need of a quick escape. To make an afternoon of it, head for the east side where the glassed-in greenhouse displays subtropical waterlilies the size of party platters. Alternatively, park yourself in the southern part of the park in the traditional teahouse. Expect lots of company during cherry-blossom season; however, Shinjuku Park is easily one of the top sakura-viewing spots in Tokyo.

EAST SHINJUKU (SHINJUKU) Walking Tour

This walking tour is best begun about an hour before dusk falls, when you’ll observe the perceptible change of East Shinjuku’s day life turn over to night. The neon burns brighter against the darkening sky, and the seedier side of Kabukichō likewise comes into sharper contrast.

1 Kinokuniya Bookshop (♿દ࿡ደᦠᐫ) This popular bookshop (%3354-0131; 3-17-7 Shinjuku; h10am-8pm) is a great time-killer. Here, you can pop in to browse its superb collection of foreign-language books and magazines on the 7th floor. And of course, this being Japan, no one will say anything to you if you decide to spend an hour or so reading something without buying it.

2 Isetan Building (દ൓ਤࡆ࡞) Packed to the gills with fashionable boutiques and trendy shops, this shopping mecca draws in crowds of fashionable Tokyoites ready to spend big. You can balance out your retail therapy by browsing the Isetan Art Gallery

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2 Sompo Japan Museum of Art (៊଻ࠫ

Building, is known mainly for its purchase of Van Gogh’s Sunflowers for a whopping ¥5 billion. Although the famous painting is the undoubtable highlight, the museum focuses on the largely figurative work of Japanese artist Tōgō Seiji.

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p117), located on the 42nd floor of the Sompo

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(admission free; hvary) on the 5th floor, which

hosts print, ceramic and fine art exhibits by Japanese artists.

3 Hanazono-Jinja (⧎࿦␹␠) This shrine (for more information see p119) nestles so close to Tokyo’s most infamous red-light

district (for more information see p119) is little more than a warren of alleyways devoted entirely to small, stand-up watering holes. Traditionally the haunt of bohemian Tokyoites, it’s deserted by day, but can be great fun at night. It’s said that the block is gradually being bought up by Seibu department store, but for now Golden Gai hangs tight.

5 Kabukichō (᱌⥰પ↸) Despite its reputation as Tokyo’s notorious red-light district (for more information see p119), Kabukichō is a relatively safe area to stroll around, though being aimed solely at Japanese clients, most of what goes on in these environs is pretty much off-limits to foreigners. Nevertheless, Kabukichō has everything from ‘soaplands’ (massage parlours) and peep shows to pornovideo booths and strip shows that involve audience participation.

6 Koma Theatre (ࠦࡑ഍႐) This enormous theatre started off as a cinema, but quickly switched to stage shows, and today hosts performances of a more mainstream variety than those elsewhere in Kabukichō. The square facing the Koma is ringed by cinemas, and is also a popular busking spot at night, though yakuza (mafia) are usually quick about moving anyone too popular along.

I K E BU K U RO Eating p171; Shopping p146; Sleeping p214 Never quite part of Shitamachi and in the postwar years the site of an enormous, gangcontrolled black market, Ikebukuro seemed destined to be the sleaziest of the three main Yamanote hubs. However, somehow Ikebukuro managed to evolve into a well-grounded, working-class neighbourhood that feels wonderfully lived in. Perhaps this is because the rents have stayed relatively stable, and young families, students and senior citizens have been able to set up shop here without going broke. Significantly overshadowed by the glitz and glam of Shibuya and Shinjuku, Ikebukuro lacks a definable character, though developers have been quick to capitalise on the neighbourhood’s up-and-coming status. Ikebukuro is currently home to two of the world’s biggest department stores, Tōbu (p146) and Seibu (p146), as well as an entire complex built around one of the tallest buildings in Asia, Sunshine City (below). The bright lights of Shinjuku are to the south, to the east are quiet lowland residential districts and to the west are Tokyo’s more remote wards. The JR Yamanote Line runs smack through the middle of the district, dividing Ikebukuro into east and west. Like Shinjuku, Ikebukuro’s east and west sides have different identities: the west end has the lion’s share of bars and good restaurants, while the east is home to the towering Sunshine City complex.

SUNSHINE CITY Map p122 ࠨࡦࠪࡖࠗࡦࠪ࠹ࠖ %3989-3331; bJR Yamanote Line to Ikebukuro (east exit) A complex of four buildings dedicated to commerce, Sunshine City ironically stands on the former site of Sugamo Prison where General Tojo, and others deemed Class-A war criminals by occupying forces, were executed. However, all echoes of that past are gone now, and this ‘city within a building’ is now focused on that quintessential Japanese pastime: shopping. If retail therapy isn’t your thing, the complex includes Sunshine 60, an office tower and one of the tallest buildings in Japan (the 60 refers to the number of floors). What’s billed as the world’s second-fastest lift whisks you to the top-floor observatory and sky deck (adult/child ¥620/310; h10am-9.30pm) where you can gaze out at the Lego blockesque buildings below or perhaps Tokyo’s horizon beyond. On the top floor of the World Import Mart building is the Sunshine International Aquarium (%3989-3466; adult/child ¥1800/900; h10am-6pm), home to more than 20,000 fish, while on the same floor the planetarium at the Sunshine Starlight Dome (%3989-3475; adult/child ¥800/500; hnoon-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-6.30pm Sat & Sun) is a nice diversion for space heads (shows in Japanese only). If you plan to visit more than one of these three venues, discounted combination tickets are available. Families with kids may want to visit Namco Namjatown (%5950-0765; 2nd fl, World Import Mart bldg; adult/child ¥300/200; h10am-10pm). Namjatown is owned by the arcade-game company Namco, which should tell you all you need to know about one half of the activities here (it can be pretty cacophonous!). The other half consists of three food theme parks. In the Ikebukuro Gyoza Stadium, 23 vendors from all over Japan compete for your business with their version of pan-fried dumplings. Denizens of the Tokyo Chou Crème Hatake peddle dozens of varieties of cream puffs, while Ice Cream City showcases innovative takes on the world’s favourite dessert – check out the Cup Ice Museum, displaying packaged ice cream in flavours from vanilla and chocolate to octopus and grilled eggplant. Finally, on the 7th floor of the Bunka Kaikan Centre you’ll find the quiet Ancient Orient Museum (%3989-3491; admission ¥500; h10am-5pm). It displays art and antiquities, sculpture and fragments, amulets and idols from Iran, Iraq, Uzbekistan and especially Syria. Exhibits change every six months; there are about 600 pieces on display at any one time.

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Start Shinjuku-nishiguchi (east exit) End Shinjuku-nishiguchi Distance 2km Time Two hours

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district that its clientele can make for some interesting people-watching. The shrine has a reputation for bringing success to business ventures – both legit and not-so.

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SHOPPING (pp135–48) Bic Camera ࡆ࠶ࠢࠞࡔ࡜.............. 15 B2 Bic Camera ࡆ࠶ࠢࠞࡔ࡜..............16 C2 Bic Camera (Main Store) ࡆ࠶ࠢࠞࡔ࡜ᧄᐫ........................17 C2 Bic Camera PC Store ࡆ࠶ࠢࠞࡔ࡜ PC ࠬ࠻ࠕ............18 C2 Blue Parrot ࡉ࡞࡯ࡄࡠ࠶࠻ .........19 A5 HMV ࠛࠗ࠴ࠛࡓࡧࠖ࡯................. 20 B2 Loft ࡠࡈ࠻ ....................................... (see 24) SIGHTS (pp121–4) Mandarake ߹ࠎߛࠄߌ ................. 21 D2 Mitsukoshi ਃ⿧ .................................22 C2 Ancient Orient Museum ฎઍࠝ࡝ࠛࡦ࠻ඳ‛㙚.............. 10 D2 Parco ࡄ࡞ࠦ .......................................23 C2 Cup Ice Museum Seibu ⷏ᱞ............................................ 24 B2 ࠞ࠶ࡊࠕࠗࠬඳ‛㙚 ................(see 13) Tōbu ᧲ᱞ............................................. 25 B2 Ice Cream City Tōkyū Hands ᧲ᕆࡂࡦ࠭...............26 C2 ࠕࠗࠬࠢ࡝࡯ࡓࠪ࠹ࠖ࡯.......(see 13) Ikebukuro Bōsai-kan EATING (pp149–74) ᳰⴼ㒐ἴ㙚 ..................................... 11 A2 Akiyoshi ⑺ศ ......................................27 A2 Japan Traditional Craft Center Ben's Café ࡌࡦ࠭ࠞࡈࠚ................28 A6 ో࿖વ⛔⊛Ꮏ⧓ຠ࠮ࡦ࠲࡯ .....12 B2 Gyros Hero ࡅ࡯ࡠࠬࡅ࡯ࡠ࡯ .... 29 B6 Namco Namjatown Ikebukuro Gyōza Stadium ࠽ࡓࠫࡖ࠲࠙ࡦ............................ 13 D2 ᳰⴼ㘾ሶࠬ࠲࠺ࠖࠕࡓ ........... (see 13) Sunshine 60 Building Kao Tai ࠞࠝ·࠲ࠗ ..............................30 A5 ࠨࡦࠪࡖࠗࡦ 60 ࡆ࡞ ..............(see 14) Marmara ࡑࡑ࡜ ................................31 A5

IKEBUKURO BŌSAI-KAN (IKEBUKURO EARTHQUAKE HALL) Map p122

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Sunshine City ࠨࡦࠪࡖࠗࡦࠪ࠹ࠖ .................. 14 D2 Sunshine International Aquarium ࠨࡦࠪࡖࠗࡦ࿖㓙᳓ᣖ㙚....... (see 14) Sunshine Starlight Dome ࠨࡦࠪࡖࠗࡦ ࠬ࠲࡯࡜ࠗ࠻࠼࡯ࡓ ................ (see 14) Tokyo Chou Crème Hatake ᧲੩ࠪࡘ࡯ࠢ࡝࡯ࡓ⇌ ........... (see 13)

Sasashū ╣๟.................................... (see 38) Seibu ⷏ᱞ......................................... (see 24) Taverna ࠲ࡌ࡞࠽..............................32 A5 ENTERTAINMENT (pp175–90) Jazz Spot Intro ࠫࡖ࠭࠭ࡐ࠶࠻ࠗࡦ࠻ࡠ..........33 A5 Tokyo Metropolitan Art Space ᧲੩⧓ⴚ഍႐ ..................................34 B2 Waseda Shochiku ᣧⒷ↰᧻┻...... 35 B6 DRINKING (pp175–90) Bobby's Bar ࡏࡆ࡯࠭ࡃ࡯............. 36 B2 Dubliners ࠩ࠳ࡉ࡝࠽࡯࠭............ 37 B2 Sasashū ╣๟....................................... 38 B1 ACTIVITIES (pp191–200) Conversation Café Mickey House ⧷ળ⹤༛⨥ࡒ࠶ࠠࡂ࠙ࠬ..........39 A5 Sendagaya Japanese Institute ජ㚝ࡩ⼱ᣣᧄ⺆ᢎ⢒⎇ⓥᚲ.....40 A6 SLEEPING (pp201–16) Crowne Plaza Metropolitan Hotel ࡎ࠹࡞ࡔ࠻ࡠࡐ࡝࠲ࡦ .............. 41 B2 Hotel Strix Tokyo ࡎ࠹࡞ࠬ࠻࡝࠶ࠢࠬ᧲੩.......... 42 B2 Hotel Sunroute Takadanobaba ࡎ࠹࡞ࠨࡦ࡞࡯࠻㜞↰㚍႐.....43 A6 House Ikebukuro ࡂ࠙ࠬᳰⴼ.......44 A1 Kimi Ryokan ⾆⟤ᣏ㙚 ..................... 45 B1 Sunshine City Prince Hotel ࠨࡦࠪࡖࠗࡦ ࠪ࠹ࠖࡊ࡝ࡦࠬࡎ࠹࡞ ............. 46 D2 Tama Ryokan ᄙ៺ᣏ㙚................... 47 B6 Toyoko Inn Kita-guchi No.1 ᧲ᮮࠗࡦ ..........................................48 C1

Kishibojinmae To Gokoku-ji (600m)

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INFORMATION Across Travellers Bureau ࠕࠢࡠࠬ࠻࡜ࡌ࡞ .......................... 1 C2 Ikebukuro Post Office ᳰⴼㇷଢዪ 2 B1 International Medical Center of Japan ࿖┙࿖㓙ක≮࠮ࡦ࠲࡯.... 3 B6 Kimi Information Center ⾆⟤ ࠗࡦࡈࠜࡔ࡯࡚ࠪࡦ࠮ࡦ࠲࡯ .. 4 B1 No 1 Travel ࠽ࡦࡃ࡯ࡢࡦ࠻࡜ࡌ࡞................. 5 B2 Police ⼊ኤ⟑ ........................................ 6 B2 STA Travel ࠛࠬ࠹ࠖ࡯ࠛ࡯࠻࡜ࡌ࡞............ 7 B3 Toshima Post Office ⼾ፉㇷଢዪ....8 D2 Toshima-ku Tourist Information Center ⼾ፉ඙ⷰశᖱႎ ࠮ࡦ࠲࡯ ........................................(see 23) Toshima-ku Ward Office ⼾ፉ඙ᓎᚲ ........................................ 9 C1

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ᳰⴼ㒐ἴ㙚 %3590-6565; 2-37-8 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Tōshima-ku; admission free; h9am-5pm Wed-Mon, closed 3rd Wed of the month; bJR Yamanote Line or Marunouchi Line to Ikebukuro (Metropolitan exit) Quick: what should you do in case of an earthquake? What if your house is on fire? This facility operated by the Tokyo Fire Department prepares you for these and other disasters by means of videos (available in English) and incredibly realistic simulations; it’s hard not to be rattled once the room starts a-shaking. A visit here is important preparation if you’re planning on living in Japan. Even if you’re not, it’s an important insight into a possibility that’s never far from the mind of any Japanese.

JAPAN TRADITIONAL CRAFT CENTER Map p122

ో࿖વ⛔⊛Ꮏ⧓ຠ࠮ࡦ࠲࡯ %5954-6066; www.kougei.or.jp/english/center .html; 1st fl, Metropolitan Plaza Bldg, 1-11-1 Nishi Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; admission free; h11am7pm; bJR Yamanote Line or Marunouchi Line to Ikebukuro (Metropolitan exit) Operated by the Japanese Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry, this showroom is less a museum and more

TRANSPORT: IKEBUKURO Train Ikebukuro is one of the hubs of the JR Yamanote Line, and the terminus of the Tōbu and Seibu commuter lines. Metro The Marunouchi Line terminates at Ikebukuro, while the Yūrakuchō Line also runs through it.

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GOKOKU-JI (GOKOKU TEMPLE) Map pp48–9

⼔࿖ኹ %3941-0764; admission free; hdawn to dusk; bYūrakuchō Line to Gokokuji (exit 1) Declared an Important Cultural Property, this temple gets surprisingly few visitors. One of the few surviving Edo temples, it dates from 1680, and was built by the fifth Tokugawa shōgun for his mother. Exiting the temple grounds and turning to the left, you’ll reach Toshimagaoka Goryo, an imperial mausoleum that is closed to the public.

SUM I DA R I V E R Eating p173 The area east of the Sumida-gawa (Sumida River), which is relatively off the radar screens of most foreign visitors, is more a collection of distinct districts than it is one single unit. Even so, there are a few noteworthy attractions for anyone interested in getting off the beaten path and exploring the varying faces of the Sumida-gawa. Of particular note is Ryōgoku (below), the centre of sumō culture, with its large number of sumō heya (stables). Also, the nearby Edo-Tokyo Museum (below), which gives a marvellous presentation of city history, is always a big hit with anyone looking for a glimpse of old Edo. To the south, the neighbourhoods of Kiyosumi and Fukagawa retain a Shitamachi feel not gussied up for tourist consumption, with some wonderful old gardens and temples. Stroll Eitai-dōri east of Monzen-nakachō Station on the 1st, 15th and 28th of each month for a street market with lots of local colour. Kiyosumi is also where you’ll find the Museum of Contemporary Art (p127), a remarkable building with consistently smart exhibitions. Perhaps because of this museum, or because rents remain relatively low, private galleries from other parts of Tokyo have begun to move here. Ryōgoku is a quick train ride from Akihabara or a quick taxi ride from Asakusa. Kiyosumi and Fukagawa are neighbours on the south side in Kōtō-ku, just across the Sumida-gawa from Ginza.

RYŌGOKU KOKUGIKAN Map p126 ਔ࿖࿖ᛛ㙚 www.sumo.or.jp/eng/index.html; 1-3-28 Yokoami, Sumida-ku; admission free; h10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri; bJR Sōbu or Toei Ōedo Line to Ryōgoku (main exit)

TOMIOKA HACHIMANGŪ (TOMIOKA HACHIMAN SHRINE) Map p126 ንጟ౎ᐈች %3462-1315; 1-20-3 Tomioka, Kōtō-ku; admission free; bTōzai or Toei Ōedo Line to Monzennakachō (exit 1) Next door to Fukagawa Fudō-dō, this large shrine dates from 1627, and is closely associated with the world of sumō. Around the back of the main building is the yokozuna

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EDO-TOKYO MUSEUM Map p126 ᳯᚭ᧲੩ඳ‛㙚 %3626-9974; www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp/eng lish; 1-4-1 Yokoami, Sumida-ku; adult/child ¥600/ free, student ¥300-450; h9.30am-5.30pm Tue, Wed, Sat & Sun, 9.30am-8pm Thu & Fri; bToei Ōedo or JR Sōbu Line to Ryōgoku (main exit) This massive, futuristic building is by far the best city-history museum we’ve ever

TRANSPORT: SUMIDA-GAWA (SUMIDA RIVER) Train The JR Sōbu Line is a main approach to Ryōgoku. It is the most convenient access to the sumō district but is slightly less convenient to the Edo-Tokyo Museum. Metro The Toei Ōedo Line connects the Ryōgoku, Kiyosumi and Fukagawa districts via Ryōgoku, Kiyosumi-Shirakawa and Monzen-Nakachō Stations. The Hanzōmon and Tōzai Lines also serve the last two stations, respectively.

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NEIGHBOURHOODS IKEBUKURO

Just north of Ryōgoku Station is this sumō stadium with its adjoining Sumō Museum (%3622-0366). Fifteen-day tournaments (basho) take place here three times a year (January, May and September) while three other tournaments are held in other cities in March, July and November. Together, these basho decide who will be the yokozuna or grand champion. Although small, the museum displays a rotating selection of interesting artefacts of sumō history and art (mostly wood-block prints). When sumō tournaments are on at the stadium, only those holding tickets to the matches can enter the museum. For details on watching tournaments, see p197. For details on eating chanko-nabe, the delicious and nutritious stew that is consumed in massive quantities by sumō wrestlers, see the listing for Tomoegata on p173.

stone, carved with the names of each of these champion wrestlers. Also of note are two treasured mikoshi (portable shrines), used in the Fukagawa Hachiman festival in mid-August. The current mikoshi date from 1991, and are encrusted with diamonds and rubies – look in the eyes of the phoenix and other birds on top. A flea market takes place here on the 15th and 28th of most months, from around 8am to sunset.

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a valuable resource for working artisans and crafts collectors. You’ll find on display more than 130 different types of crafts, ranging from lacquerwork boxes to paper, textiles to earthy pottery. You can also buy much the same from the discriminating collection. If you’ve had the misfortune to break your favourite ceramic cup or damage your kimono, the centre also conducts repair clinics (which are housed inside the massive Metropolitan Plaza building). Also see p146 for more information.

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SIGHTS (pp125–9) Bashō Kinenkan (Bashō Museum) ⧊⭈⸥ᔨ㙚.................................................1 B3 RyŸgoku Ryogok KeiyŸdŸri Edo-Tokyo Museum ubashi ᳯᚭ᧲੩ඳ‛㙚...................................... 2 C1 Fukagawa Edo Museum ᷓᎹᳯᚭ⾗ᢱ㙚...................................... 3 C4 Fukagawa Fudō-dō (Fukugawa Fudo Temple) ᷓᎹਇേዅ................... 4 C5 Kantō Earthquake Memorial Ch¥Ÿ-ku Museum ᧲੩ㇺᓳ⥝⸥ᔨ㙚............... 5 C1 ਛᄩ඙ Museum of Contemporary Art, Higashinihombashi Tokyo ᧲੩ㇺ⃻ઍ⟤ⴚ㙚....................6 D4 Ryoōgoku Kokugikan ਔ࿖࿖ᛛ㙚...(see 13) 12 Kikugawa HamachŸ Shugoarts ࠪࡘ࡯ࠧࠕ࡯࠷ ................. (see 7) ⩵Ꮉ 1 Taka Ishii Gallery i h s Morishita 7 ha ࠲ࠞࠗࠪࠗࠡࡖ࡜࡝࡯.........................7 B3 n-± Shi Tomio Koyama Gallery Shin-±hashi ዊጊ⊓⟤ᄦࠡࡖ࡜࡝࡯..................... (see 7) ᣂᄢᯅ Tomioka Hachimangū (Tomioka Hachiman Shrine) ንጟ౎ᐈች ................................ 8 C5 RyŸgoku

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SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191–200) Bike Hire ⾉ߒ⥄ォゞ...............................11 B1 Chüō-ku Sōgō Sports Centre ਛᄩ඙✚วࠬࡐ࡯࠷࠮ࡦ࠲࡯ .......12 B3 Ryōgoku Kokugikan ਔ࿖࿖ᛛ㙚 ........13 B1 TRANSPORT (pp237–44) Tokyo City Air Terminal (TCAT) ᧲੩ࠪ࠹ࠖࠛࠕ࠲࡯ࡒ࠽࡞............14 B4

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encountered. The permanent collection on the upper floors starts with a reconstruction of half of the bridge at Nihombashi (p54), on either side of which are thorough histories of Edo and Tokyo respectively, mostly with excellent English signage. Highlights are too numerous to mention, but we like the sections on the lodgings of the daimyō, woodblock printing, the evolution of kabuki and Tokyo’s headlong rush to Westernise. There

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are often special exhibits, but the extent of the permanent collection is usually enough to overwhelm most visitors.

KIYOSUMI TEIEN (KIYOSUMI GARDEN) Map p126 ᷡẴᐸ࿦ %3641-5892; 3-3-9 Kiyosumi, Kōtō-ku; adult/child/ senior ¥150/free/70; h9am-5pm; bToei Ōedo or Hanzōmon Line to Kiyosumi-shirakawa (exit A3)

MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, TOKYO Map p126 ᧲੩ㇺ⃻ઍ⟤ⴚ㙚 MOT; %5245-4111; www.mot-art-museum.jp; 41-1 Miyoshi, Kōtō-ku; adult/child ¥500/free, student ¥250-400; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun; bHanzōmon or Toei Ōedo Line to Kiyosumi-shirakawa (exit B2) Dedicated to showcasing postwar artists and designers from Japan and abroad, MOT also holds some 3800 pieces exhibited in rotation in its permanent collection gallery, by the likes of David Hockney, Sam Francis and Andy Warhol, as well as Japanese artists such as Yokō Tadanori. The building’s stone, steel and wood architecture by Yanagisawa Takahiko is a work of art in its own right – highlights include a sunken garden, V-shaped structural supports, and a water and stone promenade. The museum is located in Metropolitan Kiba Park. It takes about 10 well-signposted minutes on foot from the subway station.

ART GALLERIES Map p126 1-3-2 Kiyosumi, Kōtō-ku; bHanzōmon or Toei Ōedo Line to Kiyosumi Shirakawa (exit A3) An increasing number of galleries are moving out of Central Tokyo to an edgy space such as you might expect in New York or Los Angeles. The building faces the Sumida-gawa (Sumida River) on one side and a cement plant on the other, and downstairs are loading docks for a department store. But no matter: the gallery owners present some of the city’s most cutting-edge work. Galleries are on the 5th to 7th floors. Taka Ishii Gallery (࠲ࠞࠗࠪ ࠗࠡࡖ࡜࡝࡯; %5646-6050; www.takaishii gallery.com; free entry), Shugoarts (ࠪࡘ࠙ࠧࠕ࡯ ࠷; %5621-6434; www.shugoarts.com; free entry) and Tomio Koyama Gallery (ዊጊ⊓⟤ᄦࠡࡖ࡜ ࡝࡯; %3462-4090; www.tomiokoyamagallery .com; free entry) should give you a good start. Check for exhibitions and opening hours before setting out.

FUKAGAWA FUDŌ-DŌ (FUKUGAWA FUDŌ TEMPLE) Map p126 ᷓᎹਇേዅ Fukagawa Fudō Hall; %3461-8288; 1-17-13 Tomioka, Kōtō-ku; admission free; bTōzai or Toei Ōedo Line to Monzen-nakachō (exit 1) The history of this giant temple dates from 1703 as a sub-temple of Shinshō-ji in the city of Narita, one of the head temples of Shingon Buddhism. The main image, which is housed in a recently constructed inner hall, is Fudōmyō, a venerable Buddha depicted in murals by Nakajima Chinami (2004). On the 2nd floor is a gallery depicting all 88 temples of the 1400km pilgrimage route on the island of Shikoku – it is said that offering a prayer at each alcove

VISITING A SUMŌ STABLE Sumō stables, called heya or beya in Japanese, are where the sumōtori (wrestlers) live and train. There are over 50 heya in Ryōgoku, along with shops catering to their clothing needs as well as restaurants. Unfortunately, heya are not normally in the business of hosting guests, but a few of them occasionally open to allow visitors to observe training sessions. Some things to know: Times of visits are limited. Stables close during tournaments and for one to three weeks immediately before or after. Training usually begins around 6am and finishes by 10am, with the lower-rank wrestlers training earliest. The best time to see the wrestlers is usually around 8.30am. For most visitors, a half-hour visit is sufficient. Most heya prefer visits arranged in advance. Ask at tourist information offices or check out www.sumo.or.jp for information on which heya are open and how to arrange a visit, and do not be a no-show or cancel at the last minute. Discipline is a key element of sumō training, and you should also exercise discipline as a visitor. Sit quietly outside the dohyō (ring) and do not make noise or take photographs without permission.

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NEIGHBOURHOODS SUMIDA RIVER

NEIGHBOURHOODS SUMIDA RIVER

wa)

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This marvellous garden was the first location to be designated a site of scenic beauty by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government – and it’s easy to see why. The origins of Kiyosumi Garden date back to 1721 as a villa for a daimyō. Although the villa itself was destroyed in the 1923 earthquake, the property thereafter was purchased by Iwasaki Yatarō, founder of the Mitsubishi Corporation. He was able to use company ships to transport prize stones to here from all over Japan – count all 50 (they’re numbered). They’re set around a pond ringed with Japanese black pine, hydrangeas, Taiwan cherries and other plants designed to bloom at different times of the year.

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Matsuo Bashō (1644–1694) was born in what is now Mie prefecture in western Japan and by the age of 10 he began to compose haiku, the seasonal-themed Japanese poetry of five syllables in the first line, seven in the second and five in the third. In 1671 he published his first set of poems. By 1680 he became the leader of a literary circle in Edo. In 1681 one of his disciples planted a banana tree (bashō) by Matsuo’s cottage here in Fukagawa; the cottage came to be known as Bashō-an (banana house) and from that Matsuo took his pen name. Bashō soon embarked on an additional career, travel writer. He wandered the length of his homeland, documenting what he saw, Edo’s own Mark Twain, Bill Bryson or Pico Iyer. Here is one of his most famous verses, from 1686: Furu-ike ya Kawazu tobikomu Mizu no oto. The ancient pond a frog leaps in. The sound of the water.

museum, you can see some scrolls of poetry written by Bashō and those inspired by him, as well as souvenirs of his journeys. There’s no English signage, but it’s a unique opportunity nonetheless to enter his world. There’s a small garden out back, or walk out to the Sumida-gawa and take a left for a lookout where you can view the skyscrapers while contemplating Bashō’s long-lost Edo.

FUKAGAWA EDO MUSEUM Map p126 ᷓᎹᳯᚭ⾗ᢱ㙚 %3630-8625; 1-3-28 Shirakawa, Kōtō-ku; adult ¥300, student ¥50-300; h9.30am-5pm, closed

2nd & 4th Mon of the month; bToei Ōedo or Hanzōmon Line to Kiyosumi-shirakawa (exit A3) This museum re-creates a 17th-century Edo neighbourhood complete with a fire lookout tower, life-sized façades and buildings you can enter. Explore the shops like the greengrocer’s and rice shop, or slip off your shoes to enter the tenement homes and handle the daily utensils and children’s toys. Be sure to note the Inari shrine and the kura (storehouse) where belongings were kept for protection from fire and, just as big a danger, Edo’s legendary humidity.

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MATSUO BASHŌ

In 1689 he departed Fukagawa to research what would become one of his most famous works, Oku no Hosomichi no Tabi (The Narrow Rd to the Deep North), then later to the Kyoto area where he wrote Saga Nikki (Saga Diary). Upon returning home to Fukagawa, he wrote the verse: Moon viewing at my hut. Let me hang on the pillar like a banana leaf.

NEIGHBOURHOODS SUMIDA RIVER

NEIGHBOURHOODS SUMIDA RIVER

In 1694 he took one last journey, to the great city of Ōsaka, where he fell ill. His last poem before dying that October: On a journey, ailing My dreams roam about Over a withered moor. The above haiku are translated from Japanese and don’t conform exactly to the 5-7-5 rule, but one of haiku’s great legacies is its easy adaptability to other languages. To try one in English, use the 5-7-5 syllabication, include a reference to the season, and throw in a twist, so that by the end of the haiku, readers are transported somewhere they couldn’t anticipate. has the same effect as visiting each temple. One of the best times to visit is around 3pm, when priests read sutras in a thunder of taiko drums and fire.

KANTŌ EARTHQUAKE MEMORIAL MUSEUM Map p126 ᧲੩ㇺᓳ⥝⸥ᔨ㙚 %3622-1208; Yokoami-kōen, Sumida-ku; admission free; h9am-5pm Tue-Sun; bToei Ōedo Line to Ryōgoku (exit A1) This museum presents sombre exhibits about the 1923 earthquake that destroyed more than 70% of the city and killed more than 50,000 people. Maps chart the course of the devastating fires while cases display glassware, eyeglasses, binoculars, tools and other objects convoluted by heat. There is also a harrowing collection of photographs and paintings of the aftermath. The museum has generalised to cover other disasters to strike Tokyo prefecture, includ-

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ing WWII air raids and the volcanic eruption on one of the prefecture’s southern islands. The museum sits in Yokoami-kōen (Yokoami Park), with other memorial buildings and a garden dedicated to quake victims. A pleasant walk connects the park and the Ryōgoku Kokugikan (p125) through the former Yasuda garden (admission free; h9am-4pm), once the site of the Edo home of a daimyō (lord).

BASHŌ KINENKAN (BASHŌ MUSEUM) Map p126 ⧊⭈⸥ᔨ㙚 %3631-1448; 1-6-3 Tokiwa, Kōtō-ku; admission ¥100; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun; bToei Ōedo Line to Morishita (exit A1) Although it now takes just a matter of minutes from the central Nihombashi district, Fukagawa was considered a very remote area of Edo in 1680 when the revered haiku poet Matsuo Bashō arrived here. At this compact

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Public bathing in onsen (hot springs) is a Japanese obsession (see p193), and, believe it or not, they’ve managed to find an actual hot spring 1400m below Tokyo Bay. Of course, Ō-edo Onsen is so much more than just a mere hot springs complex. Something of Disneyland meets health spa, this bathing theme park re-creates an old Japanese downtown indoors, selling oldtimey foods, toys and souvenirs. Wander around in your colourful yukata (light cotton kimono) and you’ll fit right in. Sure it’s kitschy, but what the hey… Bathing opportunities (most separated by gender) include indoor and outdoor

TRANSPORT: ODAIBA Train Odaiba is on the Yurikamome Line from Shimbashi, which crosses the majestic, 918m-long Rainbow Bridge. An ¥800 day pass makes sense unless you plan to make a simple round trip. The Rinkai Line also approaches from the south and east. Waterbus The Suijo Bus stops at Odaiba Marine Park and Palette Town. Catch the waterbus (see Sumida-gawa River Cruise, p87) from Hinode Pier (Map p86).

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MIRAIKAN (NATIONAL MUSEUM OF EMERGING SCIENCE & INNOVATION) Map p131

ᧂ᧪㙚 %3570-9151; www.miraikan.jst.go.jp/index_e; 2-41 Aomi, Kōtō-ku; adult/child ¥500/200; h10am-5.30pm Wed-Sun; bYurikamome Line to Fune-no-kagakukan or Telecom Center In the 20th century, ‘2001’ had overtones of the future – ‘Miraikan’ means ‘hall of the future’, so it’s somehow fitting that that’s the year this futuristic building opened. Since then, it’s been a favourite of travellers with kids. Robotics (check out Asimo), home and automotive technology figure prominently, as do the newest in space and the life sciences. The Gaia planetarium, in its own orb, almost always books out – get a reservation ticket when you arrive. The building itself is as futuristic as its exhibits; glass of different degrees of clarity has been used for different parts of the exterior shell, to allow for capture of natural light, and ‘through holes’ and ‘wind gardens’ provide ventilation.

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ODAIBA

Tokyo Big Sight (East Exhibition INFORMATION Hall) ᧲੩ࡆ࠶ࠣࠨࠗ࠻ Telecom Center ࠹࡟ࠦࡓ࠮ࡦ࠲࡯1 B3 㧔᧲ዷ␜᫟㧕 ................................... 6 D1 SIGHTS (pp130–2) Tokyo Big Sight (West Exhibition Ferris Wheel ᄢⷰⷩゞ ....................... 2 C2 Hall) ᧲੩ࡆ࠶ࠣࠨࠗ࠻ Fuji Television Japan Broadcast 㧔⷏ዷ␜᫟㧕 ................................... 7 D2 Center ࡈࠫ࠹࡟ࡆᣣᧄ᡼ㅍ Toyota Mega Web ࠮ࡦ࠲࡯ ............................................. 3 B2 ࠻࡛࠲ࡔࠟ࠙ࠚࡉ.......................... 8 C2 Fune no Kagaku-kan (Museum of (pp135–48) Maritime Science) ⦁ߩ⑼ቇ㙚 .... 4 B3 SHOPPING Decks Tokyo Beach Miraikan (National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation) ࠺࠶ࠢࠬ᧲੩ࡆ࡯࠴ ......................9 B2 ᧂ᧪㙚.................................................. 5 B3 Venus Fort ࡆ࡯࠽ࠬࡈࠜ࡯࠻ ..... 10 B2 Ō-edo Onsen Monogatari (Ō-edo Onsen Story) EATING (pp149–74) ᄢᳯᚭ᷷ᴰ‛⺆..........................(see 14) Gompachi ᮭ౎ .................................. 11 B2

FUNE NO KAGAKU-KAN (MUSEUM OF MARITIME SCIENCE) Map p131 ⦁ߩ⑼ቇ㙚 %5500-1111; www.funeno kagakukan.or.jp /english/index.html; 3-1 Higashi Yashio, Shinagawa-ku; adult/child ¥700/400; bYurikamome Line to Fune-no-kagakukan This museum is ship-shape, literally. From the outside it looms like an ocean liner by the water’s edge, and inside are four floors

Hibiki 㗀 ................................................ 12 B2 Ōshima Endomae-Dokoro ᄢᔒḩᳯᚭ೨ಣ............................. 13 B2 Ten-Ten Tsune-Tsune Kaiten-bo ὐὐᏱᏱ࿁ォဌ.............................(see 9) Tsukiji Tama Sushi ▽࿾₹ኼม.....(see 9) SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp191–200) Ō-edo Onsen Monogatari (Ō-edo Onsen Story) ᄢᳯᚭ᷷ᴰ‛⺆............................. 14 B3 (pp237–44) TRANSPORT Waterbus Aomi Pier ᳓਄ࡃࠬ㕍ᶏ⊒⌕ᚲ ................... 15 B3 Waterbus Ariake Pier ᳓਄ࡃࠬ᦭᣿⊒⌕ᚲ ...................16 C2

of excellent displays related to every aspect of ships; don’t miss the stunningly crafted replicas of Japanese ships, and try the navigation simulator. Outside, the 83.7m icebreaker Sōya is preserved. The museum is full of activities for kids, including a pool next door used for swimming and demonstrations and instruction of small craft. There’s limited English signage but an English audio guide is available (¥500).

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NEIGHBOURHOODS ODAIBA

NEIGHBOURHOODS ODAIBA

ᄢᳯᚭ᷷ᴰ‛⺆ %5500-1126; 2-57 Aomi, Kōtō-ku; adult ¥15752827, child ¥840-1575; h11am-9am; bYurikamome Line to Telecom Center, or Rinkai Line to Tokyo Teleport (free shuttle bus)

pools, a foot bath, a bed of hot stones and the opportunity to be buried in hot sand. Massage services are available, as are relaxation spaces in case all that pampering makes you sleepy. Bathing products and rental of towels and yukata are included. Note: discounts are available if you arrive late at night or early in the morning; admission prices are highest between 11am and 6pm, and lowest between 5am and 8am. Visitors with tattoos will be denied admission.

1 km 0.5 miles

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Eating p173; Shopping p147 Odaiba is a manmade island in Tokyo Bay, cobbled together from the heady dreams of the Bubble Era. Reaching Odaiba is a journey, not so much in length as in attitude. You board a conductorless train around Shimbashi, and as it takes you across the width of Tokyo Bay and beneath the Rainbow Bridge, Odaiba’s futuristic buildings beckon while the skyline you just left continues to tempt. The architectural centrepiece of the island is the Fuji TV Headquarters (p132), whose 25th-floor observation deck opens onto views of the city. However, the focus of most visitors to Odaiba has always been and continues to be shopping. Malls like Decks Tokyo Beach and Venus Fort (for more information see p147) dominate the rest of the landscape, with heaps of big-name stores, theme dining and game arcades strewn about. If you’re looking for some non-retail therapy, however, the science museum Miraikan (below), the Museum of Maritime Science (opposite) and Ō-edo Onsen Monogatari (below) are all excellent alternatives. Most of Odaiba is navigable by foot, though jumping on and off the Yurikamome Line train can be wonderfully convenient. The western part of the island, fronted by Odaiba Marine Park, is home to luxury hotels, shopping and arcades, and a great number of eateries. The museums and other attractions generally lie to the east on the flats.

Ō-EDO ONSEN MONOGATARI (Ō-EDO ONSEN STORY) Map p131

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© Lonely Planet Publications ࠻࡛࠲ࡔࠟ࠙ࠚࡉ %3599-0808; www.megaweb.gr.jp; 1 Aomi, Kōtō-ku; admission free, virtual test drives ¥600; h11am-9pm; bYurikamome Line to Aomi (main exit), or Rinkai Line to Tokyo Teleport (main exit)

2 Fuji Television Japan Broadcast Center (ࡈࠫ࠹࡟ࡆᣣᧄ᡼ㅍ࠮ࡦ࠲࡯)

In the Palette Town development, Mega Web was designed to display the wares of the Toyota corporation. Yes, it’s a showroom, but against all odds it’s actually also fun. Test drive vehicles (advance reservation required), try the Mega Theater motion simulator or poke around in the History Garage with cars from the Golden Age. Some facilities close earlier; call ahead to confirm. Next door, don’t miss one of the world’s tallest Ferris wheels (Dai-kanransha), which is as high as the second viewing platform of the Eiffel Tower (the one in Paris, not Tokyo Tower!).

The headquarters of Fuji TV, an unmistakable ball-shaped structure straight out of the future, is home to one of the city’s best observatories. On a clear day you’ll get picturepostcard views of Tokyo Bay, Rainbow Bridge and the towering skyline of Shinagawa. A ticket to the observatory (adult/child ¥500/300) also gets you into the Fuji Studio (tour conducted in Japanese).

WALK FACTS Start Daiba Station (main exit) End Kokusai-tenjijō Seimon Station Distance 2.5km Time Three to four hours with stops Fuel Stop Tsukiji Tama Sushi (p173)

1 Decks Tokyo Beach (࠺࠶ࠢࠬ᧲੩ࡆ ࡯࠴) There’s no shortage of shopping on the island of Odaiba, though this day-atthe-beach themed shopping complex (for more information see p147) is the perfect place for perking yourself if the rain happens to start

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female-friendly shopping complex (p147) stages faux sunrises and sunsets amid a kitschy Italian Renaissance–theme, though none of this

The humorously named ‘Big Sight’ is an exhibition hall that looks like an Egyptian pyramid that fell to earth – upside down. If nothing else, it’s certainly one of Tokyo’s architectural wonders, though the main reason you’re here is to snag a good view of the bay from the roof of the hall, which is open to visitors any time a conference is not in session.

NEIGHBOURHOODS ODAIBA

NEIGHBOURHOODS ODAIBA

Pick and choose your stops on this walk. The entertainments of Odaiba are so humungous and sprawling that browsing one mall and one museum could take an entire day.

START

5 Venus Fort (ࡆ࡯࠽ࠬࡈࠜ࡯࠻ This

6 Tokyo Big Sight (᧲੩ࡆ࠶ࠣࠨࠗ࠻)

National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation (for more information see p130), you know it has to be good – especially if you’re travelling with the little ones. With enough hands-on exhibits to occupy the attention spans of even the most finicky of children (or adults), it’s easy to forget about your walking tour and lose an entire day here.

Walking Tour

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ᴰ‛⺆ Just as dangerous to your itinerary as the Miraikan, this onsen resort is the perfect spot to soak your travel-worn bones. Of course, Ōedo Onsen (for more information see p130 and p194) is so much more than a hot spring resort, especially since you can top off your bath with a stroll through the shops and restaurants of ‘Old Edo’ while sporting your finest yukata.

should detract from the real reason why you’re here, namely to cash in on some retail therapy. Designer shops and boutiques are aimed exclusively at women, so men may want to take a pass or continue on.

3 Miraikan (ᧂ᧪㙚) With a name like the

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falling. If you’re planning to be on your feet all day, it’s probably a good idea to eat your fill of fresh sushi at Tsukiji Tama Sushi (for more information see p173).

TOYOTA MEGA WEB Map p131

Jugochi Wharf West

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S H O PPI N G

Yodobashi Camera (p146) – Insanely busy, noisy electronics retailer. Go for the energy. Don Quixote (p140) – Hack your way through a jungle of novelty goods. Muji (p137) – Gorgeous designs, no labels. All cool. Mandarake (p143) – Get your manga comic fix at this respected chain. RanKing RanQueen (p142) – The best new products, ranked weekly. Oriental Bazaar (p144) – Big selection of souvenirs and quality antiques. Kaiyōdō Hobby Lobby (p140) – All the plastic figurines you could ever want, and more. Uniqlo (p143) – Popular clothier with stylish, cheap duds. Japan Sword (p139) – The real stuff: samurai swords in all their beauty and deadliness. Akihabara Radio Center (p140) – A billion tiny electronics parts in tiny stalls, this is old-school Akihabara. What’s your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/tokyo

S H O PPI N G You can shop ’til you drop in Tokyo – just watch the Japanese. People here shop as they work – long and hard – and while much of the booty is taken home and eventually worn or indulged in by the buyer, an equal amount is used as gifts to grease the wheels of complex social and business relationships. Above all, the craving for new products – shinhatsubai – is insatiable. Enough to fuel a chain specialising in the most popular new goods (see p142). The central dispensers of most goods are depāto (department stores), many of which are owned by the companies that also operate the train lines (p25) – hence the sprawling retail clusters around the busiest train stations. Of course, Tokyo has an abundance of smaller, more eccentric shops. Many are found on the backstreets of Harajuku, Shibuya and Ebisu and display items that are lovingly designed and crafted. Trendy Shibuya, a haven for teenagers always surfing the latest trends, has innumerable original storefronts tucked between chain stores. If you are in Tokyo for only a few days, head for Omote-sandō or Harajuku, which has some of the city’s most interesting high- and low-fashion boutiques. For status shopping, go straight to Ginza glam or the southern reaches of Omote-sandō and Minami-Aoyama. If you’ve got more time, roam through Ebisu, Shibuya and the odd little old-timey craft shops on the side streets and in the alleys of Asakusa. Foreign otaku (geeks) should definitely hit Akihabara (also see p67 and Shinjuku for manga and electronics. And a stroll down one of Tokyo’s shopping streets can reveal unexpected finds (opposite). Lastly, though bargaining is the norm in most of Asia, in Japan it’s simply not done – except at flea markets and the occasional electronics store. Just politely ask chotto, motto yasuku dekimasuka? (Can you make it a bit cheaper?)

IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI MITSUKOSHI Map pp52–3

Department Store

Though there are branches of this department store in Ikebukuro (Map p122), Ginza (Map p62) and Ebisu (Map p102), the flagship store in Nihombashi is still the most elegant. Check out the floor dedicated to the art of the kimono or peruse the morsels in the depachika (department store food floor;

Tokyo – one look around Mitsukoshi will testify to this. But tucked in between some of the more imposing façades are simpler pleasures like fine papers and shelves full of ingenious toys. Shopping options here truly reflect the breadth and depth of the city’s consumer culture, which is equal parts high fashion glitz and down-to-earth dedication to craft.

ITŌYA Map p62

DUTY-FREE TOKYO Most major department stores and many of the well-known tourist shops offer tax-exempt shopping for foreign tourists making purchases of more than ¥10,000. You must present your passport and a customs document will then be attached to it (this will be checked and removed as you exit the country). Most of the big stores have special tax-exemption counters where staff will be able to speak some English or at the very least have information that you can read.

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GINZA Ginza is the poshest shopping district in

Art Supplies

伊東屋 %3561-8311; www.ito-ya.co.jp, in Japanese; 2-7-15 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h10.30am-8pm Wed-Sat, 10.30am-7pm Sun-Tue; bGinza or Hibiya Line to Ginza (exits A12 & A13) Nine floors of stationery-shop love await visual-art professionals, as well as paper and paperclip fanatics, at Itōya. There is washi (fine Japanese handmade paper), Italian leather agendas, and even tenugui – beautifully hand-dyed handkerchiefs.

HAYASHI KIMONO Map p62

Clothes

林きもの %3501-4012; 2-1-5 Yūrakuchō, Chiyoda-ku; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; bHibiya Line to Hibiya (exit A5) This very friendly shop in the dowdy International Arcade under the railway has been selling quality kimono and yukata (light cotton summer kimono) for over forty years. The former may run about ¥10,000 in silk, and the latter (lightweight cotton) half that or even ¥2800 – many are very colourful and make excellent gifts. Foreigner-friendly sizes are also available.

MUJI Map p62

Clothes & Homewares

無印良品 %5208-8241; www.mujiyurakucho.com, in Japanese; 3-8-3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; h10am9pm; bJR Yamanote to Yurakuchō (Kyōbashi exit) or Yurakuchō Line to Yurakuchō (exit D9) Tokyo’s famously understated no-name brand is one of the hippest names in Paris. But Muji still sells simple, unadorned clothing and accessories for men and women. It also carries hard-to-find M and L sizes (though these, too, are small). This large outlet in Yurakuchō also has a great cafeteria.

Takumi has been around for more than 60 years, and has acquired an elegant selection of toys, textiles, ceramics and other traditional folk crafts from around Japan. Ever thoughtful, the shop also encloses information detailing the origin and background of its pieces if you make a purchase.

MATSUYA Map p62

Department Store

松屋 %3567-1211; www.matsuya.com, in Japanese; 36-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h10am-8pm; bGinza, Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exits A12 & A13) Matsuya offers fine men’s and women’s clothing on the 1st floor and a good breadth of traditional Japanese crafts, pottery and knick-knacks on the 7th. Boons for foreign visitors are the international shipping service, tax-exemption assistance and useful, in-store English-speaking guides. There’s another branch in Asakusa (Map p86).

MATSUZAKAYA Map p62

Department Store

松坂屋 %3572-1111; www.matsuzakaya.co.jp/ginza /index.html, in Japanese; 6-10-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h10am-8pm Thu-Sat, 10am-7.30pm; bGinza, Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exit A3) For 300 years Matsuzakaya has been selling traditional garments and crafts. Today the range is broader, though the store still has a first-rate kimono shop. Matsuzakaya is one of those grand department stores with a fabulous depachika in the basement. Also located at Ueno (Map p72) and Ebisu (Map p102).

SHOPPING GINZA

SHOPPING IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI

三越 %3241-3311; 1-4-1 Nihombashi-Muromachi, Chūō-ku; h10am-8pm bGinza or Hanzōmon Line to Mitsukoshimae (exits A2, A3, A5, A7 & A8)

p171). For the full effect, arrive at 10am for the bells and bows that accompany each day’s opening.

SHOPPING STREETS Ameyoko Arcade (Map p72; アメヤ横丁) One of Tokyo’s only old-fashioned, open-air pedestrian markets, and a good place for bargains – from spices to shoes. See p70. Hachiman-dōri (Map p102; 八幡通り) Lined with shops purveying high and low fashion trends, this street is a delightful treasure hunt for local designs. Kappabashi-dōri (p138; 合羽橋通り) Food, food everywhere, and nary a rice grain to eat – because it’s plastic. Nakamise-dōri (p138; 仲見世通り) Leading up to the grand gate that opens onto Sensō-ji, this is home to countless trinket, snack and knick-knack shops. Omote-sandō (p142 表参道) Known as the centre of Tokyo’s haute couture culture, Omote-sandō is the place to take in Tokyo fashion on parade. Takeshita-dōri (p144; 竹下通り) Takeshita-dōri is to teenagers what Omote-sandō is to dilettantes.

Craft

たくみ %3571-2017; www.ginza-takumi.co.jp, in Japanese; 8-2-4 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat; bJR Yamanote Line to Shimbashi (Ginza exit) or Toei Asakusa Line to Shimbashi (exits 1 & 3)

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TAKUMI Map p62

HAKUHINKAN TOY PARK Map p62

Toy Shop

博品館 %3571-8008; www.hakuhinkan.co.jp; 8-8-11 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h11am-8pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Shimbashi (Ginza exit) or Toei Asakusa Line to Shimbashi (exits 1 & 3) This layer cake of a ‘toy park’ is crammed to every corner with this year’s models of character toys, the hottest squawking video games, seas of colourful plastic and the softest plush toys ever invented. Hakuhinkan also harbours child-friendly restaurants and even a theatre.

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the heart of Edo’s low city, home to artisans, merchants and prostitutes. Its small lanes and winding alleyways are still full of surprises, from venerable doll shops to virtuosic drum makers such as Taiko-kan (p89). For straight gift shopping, Nakamise-dōri is not bad for souvenir trinkets – try the back streets for better-quality stuff. The long stretch of Kappabashi-dōri also yields uniquely Japanese curiosities in its little culinary-supply shops.

KAPPABASHI-DŌRI Map p86

Market

合羽橋通り bGinza Line to Tawaramachi (exit 3) It’s most famous for its shops selling plastic food models, but Kappabashi-dōri supplies many a Tokyo restaurant in bulk, selling matching sets of chopsticks, uniforms, woven bamboo tempura trays and tiny ceramic shōyu (soy sauce) dishes. This makes it the perfect street for stocking up if you’re setting up an apartment or seeking small, useful souvenirs.

NAKAMISE-DŌRI Map p86

Market

仲見世通り bAsakusa Station

YOSHITOKU Map p126

Traditional Dolls

吉徳 %3863-4419; www.yoshitoku.co.jp, in Japanese; 1-9-14 Asakusabashi, Taitō-ku; h9.30am-6pm; bJR Sōbu or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusabashi (exit A2 or main exit) Once known as doll-maker to the emperor, Yoshitoku has been crafting and distributing dolls since 1711. The 1st floor is filled with miniatures that depict kabuki actors, geisha and sumō wrestlers in minute detail and exquisite dress. Figures are designed with the serious collector in mind.

CENTRAL TOKYO A few stops east of Shinjuku, the height of buildings descend to a more human scale. A stroll up the Kagurazaka slope from Iidabashi Station will turn up several shops selling geta (traditional wooden sandals) and drawstring purses made from lavish kimono fabric. Elsewhere in the area, wedged in unexpected places between pharmacies, groceries and pachinko (vertical pinball-game) parlours, are shops carrying goods like Czech puppets and hand-painted kites. Jimbōchō is the place to go for rare books, both Japanese and English.

ASAKUSA TRADITIONAL PRODUCTS The following shops specialise in Asakusa traditional products. If there are other crafts you’re interested in, and there are dozens more, visit the Edo Shitamachi Dentō Kōgeikan (Shitamachi Traditional Crafts Museum, p89 or visit www .asakusa-e.com/dentokoge/dentokoge2.htm, in Japanese. Bengara (Map p86; べんがら%3841-6613, www.bengara.com, in Japanese; 1-35-6 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; h10am-6pm closed 3rd Thu monthly; bGinza Line to Asakusa (exit 1) or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit A5)) Sells noren, the curtains that hang in front of shop doors. Some noren are very artful, with the spirit of the mingei movement (p35). It’s one block east of Nakamise-dōri. Kanesō (Map p86; かね惣%3844-1379; www.kanesoh.com, in Japanese; 1-18-12 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; h11am-7pm; bGinza Line to Asakusa (exit 1) or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit A5)) This place has been selling knives since the early Meiji period. In a country where knives are a serious business, this shop is known as a favourite of the pros. Miyamoto Unosuke Shoten (Map p86; 宮本卯之助商店%3844-2141; www.miyamoto-unosuke.co.jp; 2-1-1 Nishi Asakusa, Taitō-ku; h9am-6pm Thu-Tue; bGinza Line to Tawaramachi, exit 3) If it’s festival products you’re after, Miyamoto is one-stop shopping, from mikoshi (portable shrines) to drums, clappers and festival masks. It’s on the ground floor of the building and downstairs from the drum museum (p89).

GIFT BOX Gift-giving in Japan is a complex art form, fraught with symbolism and design. While most Japanese will graciously forgive the faux pas of a foreigner, some basic etiquette is important. If invited to someone’s home, bring a small gift as a gesture of appreciation. Flowers are a good choice, as is a pretty package of sweets from a depachika. Bringing along some trinkets and speciality items from your home country will delight Japanese, but err on the side of modesty. Avoid anything in sets of unlucky four or nine, and don’t wrap gifts in funereal white. When offered a gift, the polite response is to initially refuse so as not to appear greedy. Conversely, when you offer a gift, expect to do a bit of gentle urging before it’s accepted. In group situations, give something to everyone (a shared box of biscuits, for example) but give individual gifts in private. It’s good form to give and receive with both hands. And unless the giver insists, politely resist the temptation to tear into it – until later.

BINGOYA Map pp48–9

Craft

備後屋 %3202-8778; www.quasar.nu/bingoya; 10-6 Wakamatsuchō, Shinjuku-ku; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun; bToei Ōedo Line to Wakamatsu-kawada (kawada exit) Richly dyed washi (handmade paper), batik textiles, ceramics and an assortment of folk crafts fill out the five floors of this wonderful shop. Find handmade glassware, cushions and Japanese tea cups for feathering your nest, or painted fans, happi (half-length coats) and washi-covered tea canisters.

PUPPET HOUSE Map p56

Speciality Store

パペットハウス %5229-6477; www.puppet-house.co.jp, in Japanese; 1-8 Shimomiyabi-chō, Shinjuku-ku; h11am-7pm Tue-Sat; bJR Chūō or JR Sōbu Line to Iidabashi (east exit) This is a wondrous workshop of functional international marionettes, run by a superfriendly couple who are happy to talk shop. Look for the sign of Punch in an alley near Mizuho Bank.

ROPPONGI Though Roppongi is best known for wild bars and pick-up joints, it’s also home to a few of the city’s most interesting and idiosyncratic shops and showrooms and its new shopping megamalls, Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown. Of special interest in Roppongi are the Axis showroom, showcasing contemporary design, and Japan Sword, which displays and sells the exquisite weaponry of the samurai.

JAPAN SWORD Map pp96–7

Antiques

日本刀剣 %3434-4321; www.japansword.co.jp; 3-8-1 Toranomon, Minato-ku; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am5pm Sat; bGinza Line to Toranomon (exit 2)

One of Tokyo’s most famous sellers of samurai swords and weaponry, it sells the genuine article – such as antique sword guards and samurai helmets dating from the Edo period – as well as convincing replicas crafted by hand. Be sure to inquire about export and transport restrictions.

AXIS Map pp96–7

Craft

アクシス %3587-2781; www.axisinc.co.jp, in Japanese; 517-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku; h11am-7pm Mon-Sat; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 3) Salivate over some of Japan’s most innovative interior design at this Roppongi design complex. Of the 20-odd galleries and retail shops selling art books, cuttingedge furniture and other objets d’interior design, a highlight is Yoshikin (%3568-2356; 2nd fl) for beautifully crafted, inexpensive kitchenware.

BLUE & WHITE Map pp96–7

Craft

ブルー アンド ホワイト %3451-0537; 2-9-2 Azabu-jūban; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat; bNamboku or Toei Ōedo Line to Azabujūban (exit 4)

SHOPPING ROPPONGI

SHOPPING CENTRAL TOKYO

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Nakamise-dōri, the long, crowded pedestrian lane running from Kaminarimon gate to Hōzōmon gate, has more than 80 stalls that for centuries have been helping the Japanese people fulfil their gift-giving obligations. The wide alley is chock-a-block

with small shops selling temple paraphernalia as well as traditional items of varying beauty and quality. The little arcade of Nakamise-dōri is also the place to pick up locally made, salty sembei (crispy rice crackers) and age-manju (deep-fried bean buns).

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ASAKUSA Now decidedly relaxed, Asakusa was once

Amy Katoh, the expat American behind this small crafts store, sells traditional and contemporary items like indigo-dyed

TRADITIONAL CRAFTS SHOPS Bingoya (left) Japan Traditional Craft Center (p146) Yoshitoku (opposite) Takumi (p137) Oriental Bazaar (p144)

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DON QUIXOTE Map pp96–7

Department Store

ドン・キホーテ %5786-0811; www.donki.com/index.php; 3-14-10 Roppongi, Minato-ku; h24 hrs; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 3) The Roppongi branch of this jam-packed, bargain castle is where Japanese kids of all ages come to stock up for fun. Don Quixote sells everything from household goods to French maid costumes, usually at cutrate prices. You’ll need to hack your way through cluttered aisles, but it’s possible to find funky gifts here.

ROPPONGI HILLS Map pp96–7 Shopping Mall 六本木ヒルズ %6406-6000; www.roppongihills.com/en; 6-10-1 Roppongi; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exits 1c & 3)

東京ミッドタウン %3475-3100; www.tokyo-midtown.com/en/; 9-7-1 Akasaka; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 8) Home to a bevy of museums, design centres and accommodation, recently opened Tokyo Midtown may not be as architecturally grandiose as rival Roppongi Hills, but it has a number of interesting shops like Idea Digital Code (%5413-3668; Galleria, 3rd floor), which sells very funky appliances, and designer goods retailer Style Meets People (%5413-3705; Galleria, 3rd floor).

EBISU & DAIKANYAMA Ebisu is often overlooked, though its shops, like its restaurants, are some of the most forward-thinking and interesting in the city. Yebisu Garden Place, an open-air mall connected to the Ebisu JR Station by moving walkways, is a good place to start. If you’re more interested in one-of-a-kind wares hotfoot it up the hill toward Daikanyama and Hachiman-dōri.

HACKNET Map p102

Bookshop

ハックネット %5728-6611; www.hacknet.tv, in Japanese; 1-30-10 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku; h11am-8pm; bHibiya or JR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (exit 4 & west exit)

This is a bookshop for serious designers, or those who can get high on the fumes of elegant design. Hacknet specialises in cuttingedge design books from across disciplines and around the world. The small, well-lit space is excellent for browsing and the staff is incredibly studiously unobtrusive.

GDC Map p102

ELECTRIC TOWN

YEBISU GARDEN PLACE Clothes

%5728-2947; www.gdcweb.jp, in Japanese; 12-7 Uguisudani-chō, Shibuya-ku; hnoon10pm;bTōyoko Line to Daikanyama (north exit) Tucked away on a Daikanyama backstreet, GDC is a popular casual wear label under director Kumagai Takashi that focuses on cool T-shirts with provocative designs like its ‘Black America’ series. Lines include the hip-hop-oriented Raw Fudge and Ventura, as well as outdoorsy Ugly for women.

Map p102

Shopping Mall

恵比寿ガーデンプレイス %5423-7111; www.gardenplace.co.jp; 4-20-3 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (east exit to Skywalk)

Q FLAGSHIP EBISU-NISHI

This large mall has loads of upper-end shops and a basement full of good restaurants. Most of the wares here are the usual department store fare – high-quality, glitzy and somewhat characterless. But the lovely alfresco courtyard and the openness of the space are a welcome departure from crowded shopping districts.

Map p102 Clothes %5456-9117; www.qshop.jp, in Japanese; B1 fl, 1-30-10 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku; hnoon-8pm; bHibiya or JR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (exit 4 &

SHIBUYA Shibuya is the fount of teen trendiness in

west exit) Sharing a building with Hacknet, Q Flagship Ebisu-Nishi presents its clothing and accessories like candy,or jewellery. Many pieces are originals by local and international designers, but the shop also designs a house collection. Sizes are limited generally to those fitting svelte Daikanyama figures.

Japan. If you’re over 30 you might feel way too old, but just cruise and amuse yourself in the madness. Music shops and cheap, outrageous apparel are everywhere, as are the hip kids who come to primp and pose. At weekends, the street in front of the 109 Building closes to all but foot traffic.

SHIBUYA 109 Map p106 KAMAWANU Map p102

Akihabara, or ‘Akiba’ if you’re an otaku (geek), is Tokyo’s electronics mecca, but it’s both hardware and software. It was born out of a postwar black market for radio parts, matured into household appliances and computers and now sells fantasy – manga (Japanese comic book), anime (Japanese animation) and associated merchandise like plastic figurines and costumes. There is now a plethora of ‘maid cafés’ (p161) where anime-esque girls will cater to male fantasies of being served by uniformed female servants. Akiba is ever protean and always a step ahead into the next consumer phase. Here are a few of its most distinctive shops. Akihabara Radio Center (Map p68; 秋葉原ラジオセンター%3253-1030; www.radiocenter.jp, in Japanese; 1-14-2 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku; hvaries; bJR Sōbu Line to Akihabara) A two-storey warren of fifty electronics stalls under the elevated railway that is the original, still-beating heart of Akihabara. Strictly for oldschool electronics otaku. Kaiyōdō Hobby Lobby (Map p68; 海洋堂ホビーロビー%3253-1951; www.kaiyodo.co.jp, in Japanese; 4fl Radio Kaikan, 1-15-16 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku; h11am-8pm Thu-Tue; bJR Sōbu Line to Akihabara) This is a collector’s plastic dream – heroic, sexy figurines from all walks of Japanese science fiction. Look for the Neon Genesis Evangelion statues outside. Tsukumo Robotto Ōkoku (Map p68; ツクモ ロボット王国%3251-0987; www.rakuten.co.jp/tsukumo, in Japanese; 1-9-7 Sotokanda, Chiyoda-ku; h10.30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-7.30pm Sun; bJR Sōbu Line to Akihabara) Fancy a bipedal humanoid robot? Or would a talking Hello Kitty do the trick? This shop is at the forefront of the home robot revolution; also sells DIY robot kits.

clever suspension bridges and four dozen or so designer boutiques selling clothing, eyewear and other sartorially stylish accessories. The open-air plaza is a treat on quiet afternoons, and weekends tend to be relatively free of mad throngs of shoppers.

Craft

かまわぬ %3780-0182; www.kamawanu.co.jp, in Japanese; 23-1 Sarugaku-chō, Shibuya-ku; h11am7pm;bTōyoko Line to Daikanyama (north exit) Looking for a unique, compact present from Japan? Kamawanu specialises in tenugui, dyed cotton cloths that are surprisingly versatile. These beautifully patterned kerchiefs – motifs take in everything from Mt Fuji to musical notes and skeletons – can be used as decorative art, bath towels, scarves or gift wrap.

DAIKANYAMA ADDRESS Map p102

Shopping Mall

代官山アドレス・ディセ %3461-5586; www.17dixsept.jp; 17-6 Daikanyamachō, Shibuya-ku; h11am-8pm; bTōkyū Tōyoko Line to Daikanyama (north exit) Just northwest of Daikanyama Station, this small retail complex is notable for its

Clothes

渋谷109 Ichimarukyū; %3477-5111; www.shibuya109. jp, in Japanese; 2-29-1 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; h10am-9pm; bShibuya (Hachikō exit)

SHOPPING SHIBUYA

SHOPPING EBISU & DAIKANYAMA

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In the first three months after its opening in April 2003, Roppongi Hills (p94) saw a staggering 26 million visitors pass through its doors. After a year, the count was up to a cool 46 million. The 200 retail stores, Mori Art Museum (p95) and nine-screen cinema (p188) still continue to draw the crowds.

TOKYO MIDTOWN Map pp96–7 Shopping Mall

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lonelyplanet.com

yukata (light cotton kimono or robe) and painted chopsticks, all in blue and white. Pick through tiny dishes of ceramic beads or collect bundled-up swatches of fabric for your own crafty creations.

Tokyo’s fad-obsessed fashionistas come to 109’s circular tower for the season’s freshest looks. Most of the clientele is girls under 20; the punk fabrics and wild designs reflect this – it’s what kids are wearing on the street.

TSUTSUMU FACTORY Map p106

Craft

包むファクトリー %5478-1330; www.tsutsumu.co.jp, in Japanese; 37-15 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku; h10am-7pm MonSat; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit) It’s the wrapping-paper centre of the packaging-excess capital: Tsutsumu, which translates into ‘wrapping’, carries hundreds of sorts of gorgeous washi as well as other kinds of paper, numerous greeting cards, and boxes.

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Women’s clothing Aus/UK Europe Japan USA

8 36 5 6

10 38 7 8

12 40 9 10

14 42 11 12

16 44 13 14

18 46 15 16

Women’s shoes Aus/USA Europe France only Japan UK

5 35 35 22 3½

LOFT Map p106 6 36 36 23 4½

7 37 38 24 5½

8 38 39 25 6½

9 39 40 26 7½

10 40 42 27 8½

96 48

100 50 M 37

104 52 M 38

108 54 39

112 56 L 40

41 42 41 42 16½ 17

43 43 17½

Men’s clothing Aus Europe Japan UK/USA

92 46 S 35

36

Men’s shirts (collar sizes) Aus/Japan Europe UK/USA

38 38 15

39 40 39 40 15½ 16

Aus/UK 7 8 9 10 11 12 Europe 41 42 43 44½ 46 47 Japan 26 27 27½ 28 29 30 USA 7½ 8½ 9½ 10½ 11½ 12½ Measurements approximate only; try before you buy Department Store

パルコ %3464-5111; www.parco-shibuya.com; 151 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku; h10am-9pm; bShibuya (Hachikō exit) Parco, divided into several stores located smack in the middle of Shibuya, carries contemporary designs for a very young crowd. In Parco I, you’ll find a good magazine and bookstore on the 7th floor and edgy shops on floors three through six. There’s another Parco in Ikebukuro (Map p122).

TŌKYŪ HANDS Map p106

ロフト %3462-3807; www.loft.co.jp, in Japanese; 21-1 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku; h10am9pm;bShibuya (Hachikō exit) Loft’s multiple levels of housewares, accessories, travel supplies and stationery are more compact than at Tōkyū Hands and, aimed towards younger shoppers, the bias leans towards fun and oddities. Stylish bedding and blob-shaped vases distract the shopper from titanium jewellery and trendy makeup before the kawaii (cute) plastic toys and mobile-phone charms do ‘em in. Another branch is in Ikebukuro (Map p122).

Department Store

東急ハンズ %5489-5111; www.tokyu-hands.co.jp/shibuya. htm, in Japanese; 12-18 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku; h10am-8.30pm; bShibuya (Hachikō exit) This is Tokyo’s favourite DIY store, with hardware and materials for home projects. What defines it is the sheer diversity of eccentric goodies: clocks that tick backwards,

Map p106

Specialty Store

ランキンランキン %3770-5480; www.ranking-ranqueen.net, in Japanese; 2nd fl, Shibuya Station, Shibuya-ku; h10am-11.30pm; bShibuya Come here to find what young Japanese are nuts about – the hottest, quirkiest consumer products, ranked every month according to sales. The No 1 selling teeth whitener? They’ve got it. The best-selling bath salts, bottled tea, cellulite killers and tools to make your face look smaller are all here too. Enjoy the madness.

HARAJUKU & AOYAMA Home to the famed Harajuku girls, Takeshita-dōri and the alleys packed with small, independent designers’ shops and secondhand stores, Omote-sandō is the most eclectic, experimental neighbourhood in Tokyo. High fashion rules the Aoyama end of Omote-sandō, where ‘fashionable’ has an entirely different meaning than it has for the hipsters of Harajuku layering haute couture with second-hand finds. Creatively active but solidly established, Aoyama is grownup, refined yet innovative. It’s no wonder artistic designers and high fashion flagship stores have made this section of Tokyo their creative home.

FUJI-TORII Map p110

Antiques

富士鳥居 %3400-2777; www.fuji-torii.com; 6-1-10 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-6pm Wed-Mon, closed 3rd Mon of the month; bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku (Omote-sandō exit) or Chiyoda Line to Meiji-jingūmae (exit 4) For more than half a century, this discriminating antique dealer has specialised in providing authentic lacquerware, ceramics, scrolls and ukiyo-e (wood-block prints) to interested buyers. Authenticity is guaranteed and there is also a helpful Englishspeaking staff.

CHICAGO THRIFT STORE Map p110

Clothes

シカゴ %3409-5017; www.chicago.co.jp, in Japanese; h11am-8pm; 6-31-21 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-8pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku (Omote-sandō exit) or Chiyoda Line to Meijijingūmae (exit 4) Stuffed to the rafters with funky hats, ties and coats, Chicago is a treasure trove of vintage clothing and used duds stacked

high and priced low. Of special note is the extensive collection of used kimono and yukata in the basement.

HYSTERIC GLAMOUR Map p110

Clothes

ヒステリックグラマー %3409-7227; www.hystericglamour.jp, in Japanese; 6-23-2 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-8pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku (Omote-sandō exit) or Chiyoda Line to Meiji-jingūmae (exits 1 & 4) It’s actually tongue-in-cheek rather than hysteric glamour, but whatever you want to call it, it’s sexy and fun. These designer confections are a good place to start for hip fashion with a Tokyo twist. There’s even a toddler line, the ultimate in designer punk for your little rocker.

UNIQLO Map p110

Clothes

ユニクロ %5468-7313; www.uniqlo.com; 6-10-8 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-9pm; bChiyoda Line to Meiji-jingūmae (exits 1 &4) Like Muji (p137), Uniqlo has made a name for itself by sticking to the basics. Offering inexpensive, quality clothing with clean,

BOOKSHOPS From manga to ancient manuscripts, Tokyo is a book lover’s paradise. Japanese are voracious readers and are spoilt for choice when it comes to literature shops. Here are some notable retailers dealing in English and Japanese books. Blue Parrot (Map p122; %3202-3671; www.blueparrottokyo.com; 3rd fl, 2-14-10 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; h11am-9.30pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba, Waseda exit) A fabulous resource of English books, magazines, DVDs, children’s books and internet access. Good Day Books (Map p102; %5421-0957; www.gooddaybooks.com; 3rd fl, 1-11-2 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; h11am8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu, east exit) The best selection of used English-language books in Tokyo, with a wide range of paperbacks, hardcovers and magazines. Issei-do (Map p68; 一誠堂書店%3292-0071; www.isseido-books.co.jp; 1-7 Kanda-Jimbōchō, Chiyoda-ku; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; bToei Mita or Toei Shinjuku Line to Jimbōchō, exits A6 & A7) An antiquarian bookseller, this one with a wonderful selection of old texts. The 2nd floor has many well-weathered volumes in English. Kinokuniya (Map p116; 紀伊國屋書店%5361-3301; www.kinokuniya.co.jp; Takashimaya Times Square, 5-242 Sendagaya, Shinjuku-ku; h10am-8pm;bShinjuku, south exit) One of the best selections of English-language titles on the 6th floor, with another nearby branch east of Shinjuku Station. Mandarake (off Map pp48–9; まんだらけ%3228-0007; www.mandarake.co.jp; 5-52-15 Nakano, Nakanoku; hnoon-8pm;bJR Chūō Line to Nakano, west exit) A must-stop for manga maniacs, Mandarake has more than a dozen shops spread throughout the Nakano Broadway mall. There are also branches in Shibuya (Map p106; %3477-0777; B2 fl, Shibuya Beam Bldg, 31-2 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku; hnoon-8pm; bShibuya, Hachikō exit) and Ikebukuro (Map p122; %5928-0771; B1 fl, Lions Mansion Ikebukuro, 3-15-2 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; h11am-8pm; bIkebukuro, east exit). Maruzen (Map pp52–3; 丸善%6214-2001; 2-3-10 Nihombashi, Chūō-ku; h9.30am-8.30pm; bGinza Line to Nihombashi (B3 exit)) Established in 1869, this is Japan’s oldest Western bookshop (recently rebuilt) and has one of the best selections of English-language books in Tokyo. Its founder is said to have invented Japanese curried rice – there’s a restaurant serving the dish here.

SHOPPING HARAJUKU & AOYAMA

SHOPPING HARAJUKU & AOYAMA

PARCO Map p106

Department Store & Homewares

RANKING RANQUEEN

Men’s shoes

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hand-blown glass pens and vibrating reflexology slippers. This is eight floors of oddball, functional stuff you never realised you needed. If you hit one store during your stay, let this be it. There’s another huge store in Shinjuku’s Takashimaya Times Square (Map p116).

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CLOTHING SIZES

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ORIENTAL BAZAAR Map p110

Craft

オリエンタルバザー %3400-3933; 5-9-13 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h10am-7pm Fri-Wed; bChiyoda Line to Meijijingūmae (exit 4) Carrying a wide selection of antiques and tourist items at very reasonable prices, Oriental Bazaar is an excellent spot for easy one-stop souvenir shopping. Good gifts to be found here include fans, folding screens, pottery, porcelain and kimono. The branch at Narita Airport opens at 7.30am for lastchance purchases.

A BATHING APE Map p110

Designer Wear

ア・ベイシング・エイプ %3407-2145; www.bape.com; 5-5-8 MinamiAoyama, Minato-ku; h11am-7pm; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omote-sandō (exit A4)

COMME DES GARÇONS Map p110

YOHJI YAMAMOTO Map p110

Wander down Omote-sandō to check out Yohji Yamamoto’s bold, timeless designs. Though there’s no sign on it, his flagship store is recognisable by its distinctive bronze façade, which you’ll want to get past for a look at the experimental interior.

コム・デ・ギャルソン %3406-3951; 5-2-1 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h11am-8pm; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omote-sandō (exit A5) The architectural eccentricity of Kawakubo Rei’s flagship store (see also p113) should come as no surprise – her radical designs have been refiguring the fashion landscape for more than 20 years. Both men’s and women’s fashions are on display. Most available sizes are quite small, but a quick circuit of the shop is interesting in itself.

If you’re struck with a sudden urge to fit into one of Tokyo’s youth subcultures, passing through the flowered arches of Takeshita-dōri will reveal all you need. You’ll find salons to pouf your hair into a gigantic fro, white platform Mary Janes to go with your bloody nurse’s outfit and creative inspiration from the teen tribes.

Designer Wear

三宅一生 %3423-1407; www.isseymiyake.com; 3-18-11 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h11am-8pm; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omotesandō (exit A4) Before Issey Miyake put Tokyo on the fashion map, Japanese designers were known

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Music

スパイラルレコード %3498-1224; www.spiral.co.jp, in Japanese; h11am-8pm; 5-6-23 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omotesandō (exit B1) Located just inside the entrance of the Spiral building, Spiral Records is both a vendor and an experimental label. The listening stations feature avant-garde tunes both new and old. The staff spins records while you browse.

LAFORET BUILDING Map p110

ISSEY MIYAKE Map p110

Market

竹下通り bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku (Takeshita-dōri exit)

SPIRAL RECORDS Map p110 Designer Wear

CONDOMANIA Map p110 Designer Wear

山本耀司 %3409-6006; www.yohjiyamamoto.co.jp; 5-36 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h11am-8pm; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omotesandō (exit A5)

TAKESHITA-DŌRI Map p110

meant to be worn for a fleeting season and then tossed into the trash. Sizes here fit tiny Tokyo teens, so unless you’re very petite, this will be a window-shopping, peoplewatching venture.

Shopping Mall

ラフォーレビル %3475-0411; 1-11-6 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-8pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku (Omote-sandō exit) or Chiyoda Line to Meijijingūmae (exit 5) This rounded ‘70s edifice must be the teen shopping capital of the world. The mall’s hundreds of shops sell the trendiest garb,

Speciality Store

コンドマニア %3797-6131; condomania.jp; 6-30-1 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h10.30am-10.30pm Mon-Thu, 10am11pm Fri-Sun; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omote-sandō (exit A5) Occupying a prime corner of the Omotesandō and Meiji-dōri intersection, the Condomania storefront may be Tokyo’s cheekiest rendezvous point. Inside are condoms of all colours, sizes and flavours.

UNDERCOVER Map p110

Streetwear

アンダーカバー %3407-1232; 5-3-18 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h11am-8pm; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omote-sandō (exit A5) Former punk band frontman Jun Takahashi’s take on youth-minded streetwear is still crazy after all this time. His Undercover Lab, designed by architect Astrid Klein, is just up from Yohji Yamamoto (opposite).

KIDDYLAND Map p110

may still be paying for next year. In fact, you yourself may be seduced by plastic-bobbled barrettes, Pokémon paraphernalia or nostalgia-inducers like Hello Kitty or Ultraman. Claustrophobes should avoid the store at weekends when it teems with teens.

Toy Shop

キデイランド %3409-3431; 6-1-9 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h10am-9pm; bChiyoda Line to Meiji-jingūmae (exit 4) Six floors of appealing products for your children to fall in lust with and which you

SHINJUKU Shopping in Shinjuku can be a little overwhelming. From the moment you step out of the train station (ringed by malls and department stores), the lights and noise make the whole place seem like the interior of a bustling casino. But there are some great shops amid all the chaos, and you can find just about anything your heart desires here. Two branches of the Kinokuniya bookstore (see p143 & p119) are here, as is stately Isetan, one of Tokyo’s most revered department stores ,which caters to the young set. It is also a great place to come to shop for electronics if you’re not motivated to trek all the way to Akihabara.

SEKAIDŌ Map p116

Art Supplies

世界堂 %5379-1111; www.sekaido.co.jp, in Japanese; 3-1-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h9.30am-9pm; bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjukusanchōme (exit C1) To the east of Shinjuku Station, Sekaidō, whose entrance is marked by a banner depicting the Mona Lisa, sells a broad array of art supplies such as pens, brushes and easels, as well as fine paper and a vast selection of manga.

EVERYWHERE VENDORS

SHOPPING SHINJUKU

SHOPPING HARAJUKU & AOYAMA

This A Bathing Ape Exclusive outlet of the uber-hip urban and hip-hop outfitter line is more like a museum than a shop, with fab sneakers on a rotating steel conveyor belt, mirrored surfaces and lots of sparkle. You can pick up Bape plastic models and some of the coolest bags in town.

to copy Western trends after they’d already hit the runway. Miyake’s work has changed such conceptions. Check out the A-POC garments – each made from a single piece of fabric.

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simple style, this chain has taken Tokyo by typhoon. You’ll find the original outpost in Omote-sandō, and you’ll stumble over dozens more all over town. Sizes run small.

Japan has the largest number of vending machines in the world – 5.5 million and counting – and they suck in nearly $60 billion yearly. They are remarkable for both their ubiquity – they can be found everywhere from bullet trains to desolate rural villages to the slops of Mt Fuji – and their variety. They dispense almost every consumer product conceivable: from cigarettes to sake, rice, popcorn, hamburgers, hot noodles, pornography, sex toys, bouquets, kerosene, toilet paper, fishing tackle, horseracing bets, travel insurance and underwear. Even, legends say, used underwear (for fetishists). Where do they all come from? Probably the best answer was from a newspaper cartoonist who drew a giant Japanese vending machine dispensing – you guessed it – vending machines. Tsutomu Washizu, author of Jidōhanbaiki no Bunkashi (The Cultural History of Vending Machines) has suggested that the Japanese love of convenience and automation has fuelled their popularity – that’s also why industrial robots are big in Japan. While the spread of online shopping, courier services and convenience stores has taken some wind out of their sails, vending machines in Japan are set to go high-tech: they will require special IDs from tobacco and alcohol purchasers to prevent underage sales, and onboard cameras will alert police to vandalism or theft. But do these quiet, fluorescent providers also address a deeper social need among a population that is constrained by rigid social hierarchies and protocols every day? Says Takashi Kurosaki, directorgeneral of the Japan Vending Machine Manufacturers Association: ‘People clearly want to purchase things without having to talk to others.’

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Department Store

伊勢丹 %3352-1111; www.isetan.co.jp; 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h10am-8pm; bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-sanchōme (exits B3, B4 & B5) In addition to its stunning food hall in the basement, Isetan boasts an excellent yukata department as well as several floors of designer goods. Check out the store’s I-club, a free service that provides Englishspeaking staff for visiting shoppers. The membership desk for this service is located on the 7th floor of the Isetan annexe building.

DISK UNION Map p116

Music

ディスクユニオン %3352-2691; www.diskunion.co.jp, in Japanese; 3-31-4 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h11am-9pm; bShinjuku (central east exit) The stairwell at Disk Union is papered with posters of old glam and punk bands. The place is known by local audiophiles as Tokyo’s best used CD and vinyl store. Six storeys carry a variety of musical styles. There’s a shop in the Jimbōchō area (Map p68) as well.

Photography/Electronics

さくらや %3352-4711; www.sakuraya.co.jp, in Japanese; 3-26-10 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h10am-10pm; bShinjuku (central east exit) With a few branches around Shinjuku, this is main rival to Yodobashi Camera (see below). Like Yodobashi, it offers an incredible selection of lenses and digital cameras, and prices are similar at both shops.

YODOBASHI CAMERA Map p116

Photography/Electronics

ヨドバシカメラ %3346-1010; www.yodobashi.com, in Japanese; 1-11-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h9.30am10pm; bShinjuku (west exit) Yodobashi is Tokyo’s largest and most highly regarded camera emporium, but in addition it also carries loads of computers and other electronics. Its prices are very competitive and tourists are waived Japanese consumption tax if a valid passport is shown.

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may be slightly cheaper in Ikebukuro – come here to buy no-frills stuff, not Prada. Ikebukuro has big department stores, but it’s never quite taken off as a shopping destination. What it is good for is bargains on wares you’ll find in other parts of the city. If you’re an anime or manga fan, check out the shops along Otome Rd by the Sunshine City complex (see Mandarake, p143).

JAPAN TRADITIONAL CRAFT CENTER Map p122

Craft

伝統的工芸品館 %5954-6066; www.kougei.or.jp/english/center .html; 1st & 2nd fl, Metropolitan Plaza Bldg, 1-11-1 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; h11am-7pm; bIkebukuro (Metropolitan exit) Though this spot bills itself as a museum (p123) it’s primarily a shop that carries traditional crafts in a variety of media. Lacquerwork, ceramics, natural-bristle paintbrushes and knives are on display and for sale.

SEIBU Map p122

Department Store

西武百貨店 %3981-0111; www2.seibu.co.jp in Japanese; 1-28-1 Minami-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; h10am9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm Sun; bIkebukuro station (east exit) One of the original big two of Ikebukuro’s department stores, Seibu occupies a huge block on the east side of Ikebukuro station and purveys all the usuals, with an impressive depachika for the foodies.

TŌBU Map p122

Department Store

東武百貨店 %3981-2211; www.tobu-dept.jp; 1-1-25 NishiIkebukuro, Toshima-ku; h10am-8pm; bIkebukuro (west exit) This is one of Ikebukuro’s two big department stores, and has a whopping 15 floors. Of particular note are the larger-than-average-sized togs (by Tokyo standards) to be found in the central building. This doesn’t mean an availability of plus sizes, but that some items will be larger than a typical small.

HMV Map p122

Music

%5953-6711; www.hmv.co.jp; 3rd fl, 1-22-10 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; h10.30am10.30pm; bIkebukuro (east exit) HMV has branches all over Tokyo, but this one in the Humax Pavilion Ikebukuro

ANTIQUE FAIRS & FLEA MARKETS After days of white-gloved attendants in Tokyo’s perfectly ordered department stores, one longs for the colourful anarchy and dust of a good flea market. Tokyo has loads of flea markets and antique fairs, many held on temple or shrine grounds, where you can spend hours among the bric-a-brac. Don’t get your hopes up about finding treasures, however, for gone are the days when astute buyers could cart off antique tansu (wooden chests) or virtuosic lacquerware worth thousands of dollars. Things to look for include old kimono, obi (belts used to fasten kimono), scrolls, pottery, old Japanese postcards, Chinese snuff bottles, antique toys and costume jewellery. Though bargaining is permitted, remember that it’s considered bad form to drive too hard a bargain. If your Japanese is lacking, bring a pencil and paper. The following are some of Tokyo’s better flea markets and antique fairs. Check with the Asakusa Tourist Information Center (TIC; p255) before going, as shrine and temple events sometimes interfere with the scheduling of markets. There are also comprehensive listings in Japanese at www.kottouichi.jp. Azabu-jūban Antique Market (Map pp96–7; hfrom 8am 1st Sat of the month; bNamboku or Toei Ōedo Line to Azabu-jūban) This flea market is held in the public square a block west of Azabu-jūban Station. Hanazono-jinja Flea Market (Map p116; 花園神社青空骨董市hdawn-dusk Sun; bMarunouchi or Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exit B3 or B5) A good mix of old and new feature at this market, ranging from antique ceramics to new junk jewellery and used yukata (light cotton summer kimono). Nogi-jinja Flea Market (Map p92; 乃木神社古民具骨董市hdawn-dusk 2nd Sun of the month; bChiyoda Line to Nogizaka, main exit) The place to go for ukiyo-e (wood-block prints) and antiques from Asia and Europe. Roppongi Antique Fair (Map pp96–7; h8am-7pm 4th Thu & Fri of the month; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi, exit 3) Another antique market that happens rain or shine; find good ceramics and quality dealers here. Tōgō-jinja Fine Arts Market (Map p110; 東郷の杜能美の市h4am-3pm 1st, 4th & 5th Sun of the month; bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku, Takeshita exit) Rummage through this trove of authentic antique wares and kimono, and odds and ends of various vintages. building is probably the best for its focus on J-pop and other contemporary Japanese music. Try the branch in the Ikebukuro Metropolitan Plaza for classical.

BIC CAMERA Map p122

Photography/Electronics

ビックカメラ %3988-0002; www.biccamera.com, in Japanese; 1-1-3 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; h10am9pm; bIkebukuro (east exit) Bic Camera carries lots of delicious food for shutterbugs. Bins of bargain film can be found in front and a variety of Japanese cameras are on display. The top floors stock a fairly extensive array of audio and video equipment, most of it at prices comparable to those in Akihabara (see p67). There are four other Bic stores in the neighbourhood.

ODAIBA Odaiba was designed as an entertainment and shopping mecca, so it should come as no surprise that two of its main attractions are malls with views over the water. You’ll find both big-name designers and small shops here. Venus Fort is worth a peek to take in its timed sunrise and sunset (artificial, of course).

DECKS TOKYO BEACH Map p131

Shopping Mall

デックス東京ビーチお台場 %3599-6500; www.odaiba-decks.com; 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; h11am-9pm; bYurikamome Line to Odaiba Kaihin-kōen (main exit) Decks is divided into two malls, Island and Seaside. Both house a rainy day’s worth of browsing, and if you’re hungering for Chinese food, the Island Mall boasts Daiba Little Hong Kong. There’s also Tokyo Joypolis, a high-tech amusement park run by Sega, with virtual reality games and indoor roller-coasters.

SHOPPING ODAIBA

SHOPPING IKEBUKURO

SAKURAYA Map p116

IKEBUKURO Prices on everyday commodities like eyeglasses

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ISETAN Map p116

VENUS FORT Map p131

Shopping Mall

お台場ヴィーナスフォート %3599-1735; www.venusfort.co.jp/multi/index_ e.html; 1 Aomi, Minato-ku; h11am-9pm Sun-Fri, 11am-10pm Sat; bYurikamome to Aomi (main exit) or Rinkai Line to Tokyo Teleport (main exit) Shopping officially became recreation when Venus Fort declared itself a retail theme park just for women. The faux Italian Villa and the staged sunrise and sunset every few hours add to the idea. Among the hundreds of shops, Gaultier has opened an outlet here, as has Donna Karan.

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E ATI N G

Inakaya (p164) – A loud and joyful beer and BBQ spot – Japanese style of course! Kyūbei (p158) – Exquisite sushi served on rare pottery. L’Osier (p158) – Regarded by France-loving Tokyoites as one of the city’s best. New York Grill (p169) – The views from this lofty Shinjuku restaurant are almost as good as the food. Rakutei (p163) – Tempura is regarded as a high art at this culinary temple. Peter (p156) – Foi gras meets fatty tuna at the Peninsula Hotel’s celebrated dining room. Canal Café (p157) – Savour a slow cocktail at one of the city’s few al fresco dining spots. Daiwa Sushi (p160) – This Tsujkiji institution will make you rethink sushi for breakfast. China Room (p164) – A Roppongi Hills affair all the way, this Chinese banquet-style restaurant is tops. Coucagno (p167) – Spot Shibuya shoppers from lofty heights at this landmark French restaurant. What’s your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/tokyo

Sushi & Sashimi

Who could ever weary of moonlit nights and well-cooked rice? Traditional Japanese Proverb

Tomes have been written about Japanese food, not least on the delights of noodles, the perils and pleasures of raw fish, and the health-inducing properties of everything from shiitake mushrooms and miso soup to pickled ginger and fresh wasabi. As visitors to Tokyo quickly discover, Japanese people are absolutely obsessed with food. In Japan the simple act of eating permeates every walk of life, fills the airwaves and bookshelves, and figures largely in most conversations. Indeed, an invitation to have a meal with a Japanese person is better seen as an opportunity to commune over food. Breaking bread (or splitting rice) is an act of mutual celebration, a way of reinforcing group identities and welcoming outsiders into the fold. Needless to say, the Japanese are voracious gourmands, and a highlight of any trip to Tokyo is its vast culinary landscape. From traditional Japanese staples such as sashimi and tempura, to more modern inventions such as rāmen (noodles) and shabu-shabu (sautéed beef), Japanese cuisine is as varied as it is simply delicious. See the Language chapter (p259) for more information.

ETIQUETTE

It’s hard to imagine how Tokyo could function without noodles. From traditional Japanese staples such as soba (buckwheat noodles) and udon, to that much beloved Chinese import that is rāmen, Tokyoites slurp down an impressive amount of noodles in their daily lives. Soba are thin, brownish buckwheat-based noodles, while udon are thick, white wheat noodles. Soba is more closely associated with the Kantō region, which includes Tokyo, while udon are more reminiscent of Kansai (around Osaka). With that said, the vast majority of restaurants throughout the country serve both. When hot, both varieties are served in a large bowl of light, bonito-flavoured broth. You can also order them served cold and piled on a bamboo mat; very refreshing in warm weather. Note that although it’s highly rude in the West, it is customary to slurp your noodles, both to cool them (when hot) and to enhance the flavour. The most popular type of cold noodles is zaru soba, topped with slivers of dried nori (海苔; seaweed). They come with a cup of cool broth and small plate of wasabi and sliced spring onions – stir these into the cup of broth and eat the noodles by dipping them in this mixture. Do not pour the broth over the noodles – it creates a huge mess! At the end of your meal, the server may give you some of the hot water used for boiling the noodles to mix with the leftover broth, which you drink like tea. Rāmen originated in China, but its popularity in Japan is epic. Your basic rāmen is a big bowl of noodles in broth, served with toppings

SUSHI PRIMER So, you’ve made it to the sushi restaurant, but now you’re feeling a bit dumbfounded about what to do next. Here’s a quick crash course to help you get started. If you’re seated at the sushi counter, you can simply point at what you want; most of the selections are visible in a refrigerated glass case between you and the itamae (sushi chef ). One portion (ichi-nin mae) usually means two pieces of sushi. If ordering à la carte feels like a chore, you can order a mori-awase (assortment, generally six or seven pieces); prices vary according to the type of fish used. Unless the sushi is already dressed with a sauce, you’ll probably want to dip it in shōyu (soy sauce) before popping it into your mouth. Pour just a little soy sauce at a time from the bottle on the counter into the small saucer provided (don’t fill the saucer), and if there is a side of wasabi, add a little at a time – it can be very hot! Remember, the soy sauce is used to flavour the fish and not the rice, so don’t dip your sushi rice-side down (plus, the rice tends to fall apart in the soy sauce). If you’re not good at using chopsticks, don’t worry, sushi is one of the few foods in Japan that it is perfectly acceptable to eat with your hands. Slices of gari (pickled ginger) are served to help refresh the palate. The beverage of choice with sushi is beer or sake, with a cup of cloudy green tea at the end of the meal.

EATING WHAT TO EAT & WHERE

EATING ETIQUETTE

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If you’re worried about putting your foot in it, relax – the Japanese don’t expect you to know everything, and are unlikely to be offended as long as you follow the standards of politeness of your own country. Just follow the locals for things such as lifting soup bowls and slurping noodles. Among the more important rules are those regarding chopsticks. Don’t stick them upright in your rice – that’s how rice is offered to the dead! Passing food from your chopsticks to someone else’s is a similar no-no – that’s how the bones of the dead are passed in Buddhist funeral rites. When taking food from shared plates, avoid using the end of the chopsticks that’s already been in your mouth – invert your chopsticks before reaching for that tasty morsel. When there are shared dishes, you will usually be given a torizara (small plate) to use as your own. Before digging in, it’s polite to say ‘itadakimas[u]’ (literally ‘I will receive’). At the end of the meal you should say ‘gochisōsama deshita’ (literally ‘it was a feast’), a respectful way of saying that the meal was good. Even if you’re just enjoying a cup of coffee or sampling some snacks at a shop, it’s polite to use these expressions. If you’re out drinking, remember that you’re expected to keep the drinks of your companions topped up – beer bottles in Japan

are typically large (at least 500mL) and the glasses small. Hold your glass with both hands while it’s being filled, and don’t fill your own glass; wait for someone to do this for you, and if you’re done just leave your glass full. The Japanese equivalent of ‘cheers’ is kampai! Don’t use the Mediterranean toast chin chin unless you want to induce peals of laughter. It translates to what boys have and girls don’t! The word for ‘delicious’ is oishii – if you only learn a handful of words in Japanese, make this one of them! If there’s something you don’t like, just leave it on your plate or in your bowl and don’t make a big deal of it. If you’re at a group dinner and have eaten enough, and the server brings more food, it’s best just to accept it and leave it, rather than send it back. If someone invites you to eat or drink with them, they will be paying. In any case, it’s unusual for bills to be split. Generally, at the end of the meal something of a struggle ensues to see who gets the privilege of paying. If this happens, it is polite to at least make an effort to pay the bill, though it is extremely unlikely that your hosts will acquiesce. Exceptions are likely among younger people or co-workers, for example, out for lunch together. If you’re arriving at someone’s home, it is polite to bring a gift. See p139 for suggestions. And if you have been someone’s guest, be sure to thank them upon leaving. Following up with a thank you note is an excellent touch.

The tonnes of fish that pass through the fish market in Tsukiji (for more information see p64) are the telltale signs of what locals are eating. Almost every Japanese meal you eat will probably include something fishy, and at times the sheer variety of seafood available in Tokyo can be overwhelming. With that said, the first thing most visitors in Tokyo are intent on eating is either sushi (すし or 寿司) or sashimi (刺身). Sushi is raw fish served with sweetened, vinegared rice while sashimi is slices of raw fish served with soy sauce for dipping. There are two main types of sushi: nigirizushi (握りずし; a small slice of fish served on a small pillow of rice) and maki-zushi (巻 き寿司; served in a seaweed roll). Lesserknown varieties include chirashi-zushi (ちら し寿司; a layer of rice covered in strips of fish, vegetables and julienned egg), oshi-zushi (押 し寿司; fish pressed in a mould over rice) and inari-zushi (いなり寿司; rice in a pocket of sweet, fried tofu). Nigiri-zushi and maki-zushi usually contain a bit of wasabi (わさび; hot green horseradish). Sushi shops run the gamut from cheap and cheerful kaiten-zushi (回転寿司; conveyor-belt parlours) and stand-up eateries to more expensive and highly refined bars and restaurants. Generally speaking, quality is equated to price, though it’s not necessary to eat at the best of the best to indulge in great sushi. With Tsukiji fish market right around the corner, chances are that everything you taste will be significantly fresher than the sushi you eat back home.

Noodles

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WHAT TO EAT & WHERE

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The history and lore behind nature’s most perfect food is worthy of textbooks. Originating in China, scholars debate exactly when this hardiest of noodles was first introduced to Japan. Although it may have crossed over at several times in the history of the nation, the first documented record of rāmen-eating was in the late 17th century by the shōgun of the Tokugawa. Of course, rāmen was not introduced to the Japanese masses until the Meiji era when the country first opened its doors to foreign interests. For most of Japan’s history, the diet consisted simply of steamed rice, vegetables and seafood, which partly explains why the country’s people suddenly became incessant gourmands in the late 19th century. During the Meiji era, American and European cuisine became the height of fashion, which sparked a large cattle- and pork-rearing industry in Japan. However, the real culinary revolution of the late 19th century was taking place in the Chinatowns of Kōbe and Yokohama, where Chinese immigrants opened up food stalls in the busy ports. Here, along with Chinese-style dumplings, Japanese commoners tasted their first bowls of hot, steaming rāmen. WWII put something of a damper on the Japanese obsession with eating gourmet, though the food industry was quick to bounce back. In the 1950s cheap US flour imports flooded the Japanese market, while ex-soldiers who had previously been in China proceeded to set up Chinese restaurants across the country. In a few short years rāmen shops took Japan by storm, becoming something of a neighbourhood landmark. Today, rāmen shops are found throughout the country, and although their nutritional value is somewhat debated, warming up with a bowl of rāmen remains the great social equaliser in Japan.

Izakaya

Izakaya (居酒屋) translates as ‘drinking house’, the Japanese equivalent of a pub. They’re great places for a casual meal, with a wide selection of food, hearty atmosphere and, of course, plenty of beer and sake. Izakaya can be identified by their rustic façades and the red lanterns outside their doors. Patrons typically order a few dishes at a time, from a selection of Japanese foods such as yakitori (焼き鳥; skewers of grilled chicken), kushiyaki (串焼き; other grilled skewers, often vegetables), sashimi and grilled fish, as well as Japanese interpretations of Western foods such as french fries

and beef stew. Say toriaezu (that’s all for now) when finished ordering each set of dishes. Izakaya food is usually fairly inexpensive. Depending on how much you drink, you can expect to spend just ¥2000 to ¥5000 per person.

Tempura

Tempura (天ぷら) consists of portions of fish, prawns and vegetables cooked in fluffy, nongreasy batter. Typically, tempura is served with a small bowl of ten-tsuyu (天つゆ; a light brown sauce) and a plate of grated daikon (大 根; white radish) to mix into the sauce ahead of time. Dip each piece of tempura into this sauce before eating it. Tempura is best when it’s hot, so don’t wait too long – use the sauce to cool each piece, and dig in. Although there are speciality tempura restaurants in Tokyo, the dish is commonly found elsewhere, such as at izakaya.

PLACES TO GO FOR BROKE Botan (p160) Coucagno (p167) Nobu (p168) Ōshima Endomae-Dokoro (p173) Peter (p156)

Sukiyaki, shabu-shabu and yakiniku are favourites of most foreign visitors to Japan, perhaps because you get to cook them yourself at the table. Sukiyaki (すき焼き) consists of thin slices of beef cooked in a broth of soy sauce, sugar and sake together with a variety of vegetables and tofu. After cooking, dip the ingredients one by one in raw egg before eating. When made with high-quality beef, such as that from Kōbe, it is a sublime experience. Shabu-shabu (しゃぶしゃぶ) consists of thin slices of beef and vegetables cooked by swirling the ingredients in a light broth (‘shabu-shabu’ is an onomatopoeia for the ‘swish-swish’ sound the beef makes in the pot), then dipping them in special sesame seed and/or citrus-based sauce. Yakiniku (焼肉) consists of thin slices of beef or pork that are grilled over hot coals, and then dipped in a variety of sauces. A variation on Korean barbecue, yakiniku is typically eaten with kimchi (キムチ; spicy pickled cabbage) and rice, and is currently one of the most popular types of cuisine in Tokyo. All three of these dishes are prepared in a pot over a fire at your table; your server will usually help you get started and keep a close watch. Take your time, add the ingredients little by little and savour the flavours as you go.

Okonomiyaki

The name means ‘cook what you like’, and okonomiyaki is an inexpensive opportunity to do just that. Sometimes described as Japanese

pizza or pancake, the resemblance is in form only. At an okonomiyaki restaurant you sit around a teppan (iron hotplate), armed with a spatula and chopsticks to cook your choice of meat, seafood and vegetables in a cabbage and vegetable batter. Some restaurants will do most of the cooking and bring the nearly finished product to your hotplate for you to season with katsuo bushi (鰹節; bonito flakes), soy sauce, ao-nori (青海苔; a sea green similar to parsley), Japanese Worcestershire-style sauce and mayonnaise. Cheaper places, however, will simply hand you a bowl filled with the ingredients and expect you to cook it for yourself. If this happens, don’t panic. First, mix the batter and filling thoroughly, then place it on the hot grill, flattening it into a thick pancake. After five minutes or so, use the spatulas to flip it and cook for another five minutes. Then season and dig in. Most okonomiyaki places also serve yakisoba (焼きそば; fried noodles) and yasaiitame (野菜炒め; stir-fried vegetables). All of this is washed down with mugs of draught beer. Also look for okonomiyaki at festivals and street fairs.

Shokudō

A shokudō (食堂) is the most common type of restaurant in Japan, and is found near train stations, tourist spots and just about any other place where people congregate. Easily distinguished by the presence of plastic food displays in the window, these inexpensive places usually serve a variety of washoku (和 食; Japanese) and yōshoku (養殖; Western) dishes.

THE HOLY TRINITY OF JAPANESE FOOD Although modern Japanese cuisine is highly refined, for millennia Japanese people survived on just three staple crops, namely rice, soya beans and pickled vegetables. Today these humble food items are often passed over in favour of fish and meats, though they continue to make a small but profound presence at virtually every meal. Rice is more than just food in Japan; it’s an essential component of Japanese culture. Throughout the majority of Japan’s history, communities were founded on and maintained by rice farming. In fact, the food is so central to the Japanese idea of eating that the word for rice, gohan (ご飯), is also the word for a meal. Despite the influx of foreign cuisines, rice remains the centrepiece of a Japanese meal. The humble soya bean has a revered place in the Japanese food pantheon, especially since it’s versatile and monstrously good for you. You probably are familiar with soy sauce (しょうゆ; shōyu) but may not know that miso (味 噌; fermented soya bean paste) also comes from the soya bean. Tofu (豆腐; soya bean curd) is another soya staple, as well as edamame (枝豆), which are whole soya bean pods that have been quickly boiled. Tsukemono (漬物; pickled vegetables) were essential to the diet of the Japanese who until very recently had no way of procuring fresh vegetables for much of the year. In honour of this tradition, pickles are still eaten today, with the most common being made from daikon (大根; a large, long white radish), eggplant, cucumber and mixed greens.

EATING WHAT TO EAT & WHERE

EATING WHAT TO EAT & WHERE

such as sliced pork, bean sprouts and leeks, though you can expect to see anything from Hokkaidō butter corn and fresh seafood to wontons and Chinese vegetables. Although you may be a loyal rāmen devotee in your own country, we can assure you that instant noodles in the West are ill-preparation for the deliciousness that is real rāmen. As the bread and butter of most Japanese, a large number of noodle shops in Tokyo are simple tachigui (立ち食い; stand-and-eat) affairs. Of course, depending on what kind of mood you’re in and how much cash you want to part with, you can instead choose a slower, more sophisticated sit-down noodle shop, or a highly refined restaurant serving up handmade noodles on impressive spreads (usually bamboo or other natural plant material served on fine china).

Sukiyaki, Shabu-shabu & Yakiniku

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THE HISTORY OF RĀMEN

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Kaiseki

Kaiseki (懐石; elegant ceremonial food) is the pinnacle of Japanese cuisine, where ingredients, preparation, setting and presentation come together to create a dining experience quite unlike any other. Born as an adjunct to the tea ceremony, kaiseki is a largely vegetarian affair (though fish is often served, meat never appears on the kaiseki menu). One usually eats kaiseki in the private room of a ryōtei (料亭; an especially elegant style of traditional restaurant), often overlooking a tranquil garden. The meal is served in several small courses, giving the diner an opportunity to admire the plates and bowls, which are carefully chosen to complement the food and season. Rice is eaten last (usually with an assortment of pickles) and the drink of choice is sake or beer.

Tonkatsu

Tonkatsu (豚カツ) is a deep-fried, crumbed pork cutlet served with a savoury sauce. Tonkatsu is a staple that appears in most Japanese restaurants, though you’ll have to head to the speciality shops for the good stuff.

Unagi

INTERNATIONAL FOOD Canal Cafe (p157) China Room (p164) Daidaiya (p163) Fonda de la Madrugada (p168) Hannibal Deux (p169)

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Fugu

The deadly fugu (globefish, aka puffer fish or blowfish) is eaten more for the thrill than the taste. The actual meat is rather bland but acclaimed for its fine texture. Nonetheless, if you have the money to lay out for a fugu dinner (around ¥10,000), it makes a good ‘been there, done that’ story. Since most of its internal organs (especially the liver) are highly poisonous, fugu can only be prepared by chefs who have a licence and have undergone extensive training. With that said, the danger of fugu poisoning is negligible, though Japanese joke that you should always let your dining companion try the first piece of fugu. If they are still talking after five minutes, you can consider the dish safe. If you’re eating fugu because you’ve been challenged by a Japanese friend, and you want to repay them with a cruel joke, hold your hand still and let your chopsticks drop onto the table (in case of poisoning, the extremities go first). On second thought, don’t do this, as it will probably alarm everyone else in the restaurant. For some liquid courage, try a glass of hirezake (toasted fugu fin in hot sake), the traditional accompaniment to a fugu dinner.

Sweets

Although most Japanese-style restaurants don’t serve dessert (plates of sliced fruit are sometimes served at the end of a meal), there is no lack of sweets in Japan. Wagashi (和菓 子; traditional Japanese sweets) are sold in speciality stores for you to eat at home. Many of the more delicate-looking ones are made to balance the strong, bitter taste of the special matcha (抹茶; whisked green tea) served during the tea ceremony. Even if you have the sweetest tooth in the world and have sampled every type of sweet that’s come your way, you may find yourself surprised by Japanese confectionery. Many sweets contain the red adzuki-bean paste called anko (あんこ). This earthy, rich filling turns up in a variety of pastries, including those you pick up at the corner bakery shop. Legions of foreign visitors have been surprised – not altogether unpleas-

antly – expecting chocolate and finding anko instead. With such a wide variety of sweets, it’s impossible to list all the names. However, you’ll probably find many variations on the anko with mochi (餅; glutinous rice) theme. Sweet shops are easy to spot – they usually have open fronts with their wares attractively laid out in wooden trays to tempt hungry shoppers. For Western-style sweets, try cafés, coffee shops and pastry shops for a variety of cakes, muffins and the like; these are also abundant in Tokyo. If all else fails duck into a convenience store for aisukurīmu (アイスクリー ム; ice cream) or chokorēto (チョコレート; chocolate).

Drinks

Unlike the Western world, sodas and other sweetened drinks rarely appear on the menu (with the exception of course being Westernstyle fast-food restaurants). Needless to say, the beverage of choice in Japan is o-cha (お 茶; green tea), which is served hot or cold depending on the time of year. You can also expect to find subtle variations on this traditional brew. Although the canned coffee you get from vending machines does resemble the watereddown brews you find in the US, Europeanstyle cafés serving the good stuff are found on virtually every corner in Tokyo. In addition to the standard cup of kōhii (コーヒー; coffee), you can also expect to find esupurēsu (エス プレッソ; espresso), kapuchīno (カプチー ノ; cappuccino) and even matcha-rāte (抹茶 ラッテ; matcha latte). When it comes to alcohol, the Japanese are avid consumers of bīru (ビール; beer), which tend to be light and easy-drinking lagers. Wain (ワイン; wine) and uisuki (ウイス キー; whiskey) are also fairly common tipples, though their high-status means that they’re significantly more expensive than in the West. Surprisingly, sake or nihonshu (酒 or 日本 酒; rice wine) is falling out of favour with the younger generation, though the potent shōchū (焼酎; distilled grain liquor) is becoming ever so fashionable.

Vegetarians & Vegans

Japan can be a frustrating place for vegetarians and vegans, especially since dashi (だし; fish stock) is used as a base for most dishes. On the bright side however, the more cosmopolitan

FOR VEGETARIANS Mominoki House (p169) Natural Harmony Angolo (p169) Nataraj (p159) Natural House (p166) Shizenkan II (p168)

neighbourhoods in Tokyo boast vegetarian eateries, many of them serving vegan meals and exclusively organic produce. For a list of the top picks for vegetarians, see above.

PRACTICALITIES

For first-timers (and some seasoned veterans) in Tokyo, deciphering Japanese menus is enough to make anyone lose their appetite. If you fall into this category, consider searching out restaurants where English menus are available. Throughout this chapter, we have added a simple ‘E’ to listings where this is the case.

Opening Hours

Restaurants in hubs such as Shinjuku, Ikebukuro or Shibuya are usually open seven days a week from 11am or noon until 9pm or 10pm, with many offering set specials during lunch hours. In smaller eateries in less central areas such as Ebisu or Asakusa, hours often run shorter, and it’s not unusual to find some places shuttered on Sunday, Monday or Tuesday. Generally, the lunch hour goes from 11am or noon to 2pm or 3pm, while dinner is served from 5pm or 6pm to 9pm or 10pm. Last orders are usually taken an hour or half-hour before the kitchen closes.

How Much?

Haute cuisine fetches high prices here, as anywhere else in the world. An upmarket sushi dinner can easily run to ¥20,000. But despite what you’ve heard about Tokyo’s exorbitant prices, it’s possible to eat very well on a midrange or even modest budget without needing to raid the shelves of the convenience stores or eating curried rice twice a day. Good washoku (和食; Japanese set meal) can be had for around ¥1000, and a tremendous bowl of noodle soup might set you back around ¥700. You should know, too, that Tokyo’s

EATING PRACTICALITIES

EATING WHAT TO EAT & WHERE

Even if you can’t stand the creature, you owe it to yourself to try unagi (うなぎ; freshwater eel) at least once while in Tokyo. It’s cooked over hot coals and brushed with a rich sauce composed of soy sauce and sake. Often you can sprinkle it with powdered sanshō (山

椒; Sichuan pepper), a pungent herb that has numbing properties in the mouth. Some unagi restaurants keep barrels of live eels to entice passers-by.

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At lunch, and sometimes at dinner, the easiest meal to order at a shokudō is a teishoku (定職; set-course meal), which is sometimes also called ranchi setto (ランチセット; lunch set) or kōsu (コース; set meal). This usually includes a main dish of meat or fish, a bowl of rice, miso soup, a small salad and some tsukemono (漬物; pickled vegetables).

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Booking Tables

Reservations are essential at many top-end spots. Some of the finer Japanese restaurants will be able to reserve a table for you over the phone, though in some cases it helps if you can speak some Japanese. If you don’t, your hotel can usually make the booking for you. As for midrange and budget spots, reservations are unnecessary except in the case of larger groups.

IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI There’s no shortage of restaurants in the proximity of Tokyo Station and the Imperial Palace, though a good number of them cater to the dine-and-dash lunch crowd. Of course, even salarymen (businessmen) and government workers need a nice sit-down meal from time to time, which is why you can expect to find a number of trendy and upmarket eateries scattered among the avenues.

PETER Map pp52–3

International ¥ ¥ ¥

ピーター %6270-2763; 24th fl, Peninsula Hotel, 1-8-1 Yūrakuchō, Chiyoda-ku; set courses from ¥10,000; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6pm-midnight; bJR Yamanote Line to Yūrakuchō (west exit); E It’s hard to put a price on unchecked luxury, especially when you’re talking about the main dining room at the Tokyo branch of the world-famous Peninsula Hotel. Offering an eclectic breadth of international cuisine, diners can choose from a variety of offerings ranging from fatty tuna sashimi spreads to duck foie gras, and create their own unique set course. While you’re sipping fine wine and spoiling your palette with some of the finest delicacies from around the world, enjoy the stunning view of Central Tokyo while pondering how good life can be.

HUMP Map pp52–3

Sushi ¥ ¥

ザハンプ %5293-4813; 2nd fl, Marunouchi MY Plaza, 2-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; sushi plates ¥2000-3000 h11.30am-late; bJR Yamanote or Marunouchi Line to Tokyo (Marunouchi exits); E Modelled after the original Hump, a famous Los Angeles sushi spot situated near the water in Santa Monica, this Marunouchi instalment marks the increasing popularity

RESTAURANT PRIMER

¥¥¥ ¥¥ ¥

over ¥5000 a meal ¥2000-5000 a meal ¥2000 a meal or less

KADO Map p56

of California-style sushi in Tokyo. The main dining room boasts spectacular views overlooking the moat of the Imperial Palace, though diners in the know opt for the private sushi bar where you can order your California rolls directly from the chef.

KUA ‘AINA Map pp52–3

Burgers & Sandwiches ¥

クアアイナ %5220-2440; 5th fl, Marunouchi Bldg, 2-4-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; burgers ¥750-1500; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, 11am-10pm Sun; bJR Yamanote or Marunouchi Line to Tokyo (Marunouchi exits); E From the shores of Haleiwa comes this Hawaiian burger chain, which serves up the obligatory pineapple-topped burgers in a tropical-themed setting. Lovers of avocado, fabulous chips, savoury mahi-mahi fillets and innovative microbrews would be wise to pop by for lunch, even if only to watch salarymen dreaming of warmer climes.

Traditional ¥ ¥

カド %3268-2410; 1-32 Akagi-Motomachi, Shinjukuku; dishes around ¥2000; h11.30am-11pm; bNamboku, Tōzai, Yūrakuchō or Toei Ōedo Line to Iidabashi (exit B3) If you haven’t had the privilege of eating dinner inside a Japanese home, a meal at Kado is a close approximation. Housed in a Shōwa-era house built in 1950, Kado reveals a rare glimpse of what life was like in Tokyo prior to the economic miracle that transformed the capital in the second half of the 20th century. Dishes, which emphasise traditional Japanese recipes and seasonal produce, are enhanced by the incredible service and familial ambience. There is no English menu, though the staff will try to accommodate you to the best of their ability.

BEER BAR BITTER Map p56

Belgian ¥ ¥

ビアバー ビター %5261-3087; 1-14 Tsukudocho, Shinjuku-ku; dishes around ¥2000; h5.30pm-late Mon-Fri; bNamboku, Tōzai, Yūrakuchō or Toei Ōedo Line to Iidabashi (exit C1); E

neighbourhood, Central Tokyo lacks a definable personality to influence its restaurant scene. However, the heart of the city is home to every imaginable type of restaurant, including a few gems that are definitely worth seeking out.

This backstreet restaurant in Kagurazaka can be tough to find (hint – look up!), though like all hidden establishments, it is certainly worth the effort. In addition to the standard Japanese pub offerings, Bitter has a number of traditional European staples on the menu including steamed mussels and shepherd’s pie, though don’t let these culinary concoctions distract you from the impressive Belgian beer menu.

CANAL CAFÉ Map p56

SEIGETSU Map p56

CENTRAL TOKYO More a geographic area than a contiguous

Italian ¥ ¥

Izakaya ¥ ¥

カナルカフェ %3260-8068; 1-9 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku; dishes around ¥2000; h5.30pm-11.30pm Tue-Sun; bNamboku, Tōzai, Yūrakuchō or Toei Ōedo Line to Iidabashi (exit B3); E

霽月 %3269-4320; 6-77-1 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku; dishes around ¥1500; h5pm-late; bNamboku, Tōzai, Yūrakuchō or Toei Ōedo Line to Iidabashi (exit C1)

When summer evenings in the capital hang heavy with humidity, you may long for a cold glass of white wine and a light meal by the riverside. Sadly, Tokyo has a regrettable dearth of alfresco restaurants with breathing room, though rare canalside spots such as this Iidabashi institution do exist. The speciality here is wood-fired thin-crust pizzas and Italian pastas such as scallop and shrimp in a light cream sauce, though the real reason

In a district that is increasingly becoming dominated by chain pubs, this traditional Japanese izakaya is perfect for all of your dining and drinking needs, especially since there are on-call shōchū consultants to help you match your meal to your booze. Although there isn’t an English menu, the speciality here is charcoal-grilled meats and vegetables, so you shouldn’t have too many problems pointing out what you want.

EATING CENTRAL TOKYO

EATING IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI

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You’ve made it to a Japanese restaurant, but now you’re feeling a bit dumbfounded about what to do next. Here’s a quick crash course to help you get started. When you enter a restaurant, often the entire staff will shout a hearty ‘irasshaimase!’ (welcome!). In all but the most casual places the waiter or waitress will next ask you, ‘nan-mei sama?’ (how many people?). Indicate the answer with your fingers, which is what the Japanese do, or respond with the number (eg san-nin for ‘three people’). You may also be asked if you would like to sit at a zashiki (low table on the tatami) or at a tēburu (table) or kauntā (counter) . More and more restaurants these days offer the fun compromise of hori-kotatsu seating: you sit on the tatami, but there’s a well beneath the table for you to place your legs. Once seated you will be given an o-shibori (hot towel), a cup of tea or water and a menu. The o-shibori is for wiping your hands and face. When you’re finished with it, just roll it up and leave it next to your place. Now comes the hard part: ordering. If you don’t read Japanese, you can use the romanised translations in this chapter to help you, or direct the waiter’s attention to the Japanese script. If this doesn’t work, there are two phrases that may help: ‘o-susame wa nan desuka?’ (‘what would you recommend?’) and ‘o-makase shimasu’ (‘I leave it to you’). If you’re still having problems, you can try pointing at other diners’ food or dragging the server outside to point at the plastic food displays in the window if the restaurant has them. When you’ve finished eating, you can signal for the bill by crossing one index finger over the other to form an X. This is the standard sign for ‘cheque please’. You can also say ‘o-kanjō o kudasai’. Remember, there is no tipping in Japan and tea and tap water are free. Usually you will be given a bill to take to the cashier at the front of the restaurant. At more upmarket places, the host of the party will discreetly ask to be excused and pay before the group leaves. Only the bigger and more international places take credit cards. When leaving, it is polite to say to the restaurant staff ‘gochisō-sama deshita’ (‘it was a real feast’).

you’re here is to savour a cocktail while soaking up the European atmosphere.

PRICE GUIDE

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little-kept secret, the bargain lunch set, can sometimes put your foot in the door at places that might otherwise be beyond your budget. Remember too that tipping is not customary, and if you try it, you may get chased down the street by staff wanting to reunite you with your change.

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city’s finest restaurants, with excellent sushi, marvellous French haute cuisine and ethereal surroundings. It can be challenging to find a modestly priced meal in the evenings, but poking around the resutoran-gai (restaurant towns) of department stores can turn up good lunch deals.

L’OSIER Map p62

French ¥ ¥ ¥

レストランロオジェ %3571-6050; 7-5-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku; set courses around ¥5000; hnoon-2pm & 6-9.30pm; bGinza, Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exit B6) In Tokyo, French restaurants are at the top of the culinary ladder, which is why it’s no small feat that local gourmets consider L’Osier to be the best around. But if you wish to analyse the foie gras yourself, you’ll need to book as far as possible in advance since a table at L’Osier is a highly coveted commodity. However, once the wine hits your head and the food hits your lips, you’ll key into the Art Deco–inspired surroundings and realise that Paris isn’t that far away after all.

TEN-ICHI Map p62

Tempura ¥ ¥ ¥

天一 %3571-1949; 6-6-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku; set courses around ¥5000; h11.30am-9.30pm; bGinza, Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exits A1, B3 & B6); E

Sushi & Sashimi ¥ ¥ ¥

Established in 1936, the unbelievable quality and flawless presentation of Kyūbei’s sushi and sashimi spreads is still revered in restaurant-rich Ginza. If you request it beforehand – and reservations are highly recommended – the owner will arrange for your meal to be served on fine pottery thrown by Rosanjin Kitaoji (for more information, see below). In a city reluctant to apply sushi superlatives, this spot is truly considered by Tokyoites to be one of the best.

BIRDLAND Map p62

Some Japanese seem to take perverse pleasure in challenging foreign visitors to try uniquely Japanese foods. Here’s a rogue’s gallery you may encounter: Basashi (馬刺し) Raw horsemeat served sashimi style. Although the taste is surprisingly similar to beef, keep in mind that you’re not eating cow. Fugu (ふぐ) Globefish, aka puffer fish or blowfish. Regardless of what you call it, it’s still deadly. For more information, see p154. Kujira (鯨) Whale meat. Need we say more? Nattō (納豆) Fermented soya beans that are firm in the centre and malodorous outside. When you pick one soya bean up with your chopsticks, it usually leaves gooey strings behind it. Probably the most vilified food among resident expats. Shiokara (塩辛) Squid intestines that are pickled until they’re pink. Verrry salty. Served as a side dish or as an accompaniment to beer (you should be very drunk before trying this). Shirako (白子) Literally ‘white children’ in Japanese, shirako is a term for the sperm-filled reproductive gland of the cod fish. Although it’s considered a delicacy, it tastes exactly like you’d think it would.

Yakitori ¥ ¥

バードランド %5250-1081; 4-2-15 Ginza, Chūō-ku; set courses ¥3000-5000; hTue-Sat 5.30-9pm; bGinza, Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exits A1, B3 & B6); E Commanding legions of yakitori-loving followers, Birdland is something of a destination for anyone in need of some seriously gourmet grilled chicken. Although yakitori comes in all shapes, sizes, colours and organs, you won’t have a difficult time ordering here – simply choose from one of several set courses and experience firsthand how many different ways there are to cook up a bird.

NAIR’S Map p62

TRAVEL YOUR TASTE BUDS

Indian ¥ ¥

ナイル %3541-8246; 4-10-7 Ginza, Chūō-ku; set courses ¥2000-3000; h11am-8.30pm; bHibiya or Toei Asakusa Line to Higashi-Ginza (exit A2); E Like Japan’s foremost living novelist, Murakami Haruki, Nair’s was born in 1949, signalling a shift in tone in postwar Tokyo. Though curry restaurants are now a dime a

dozen, this was one of the first to introduce naan and cardamom to Tokyo. Since quality midrange fare is a rare find in Ginza, this neighbourhood landmark tends to be extremely busy, though the crowds blend with the Bollywood music to create a festive atmosphere.

NATARAJ Map p62

Vegetarian ¥ ¥

ナタラジ %5537-1515; 7th-9th fl, 6-9-4 Ginza, Chūō-ku; dishes around ¥2000; h11.30am-11pm; bGinza, Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exit A2) Herbivores don’t have it easy in Tokyo, though thankfully there is reason to rejoice at this Indian-influenced vegetarian spot. Nataraj brings its warm colours, low-key elegance and animal-friendly cuisine to this enormous three-storey branch store in the heart of Ginza. Sizable set meals include appealing choices such as pumpkin curry and chickpea pakora, which go down well with an extensive wine and beer list of domestic and international favourites.

MIRAVILE IMPAKT

THE WORK OF ROSANJIN KITAOJI Rosanjin Kitaoji (1883–1959), a revered calligrapher and sculptor, is famous for despising ugly things and the people that created and condoned them. Through his professional career, he quite rancorously attacked any form of sloppiness or mediocrity that dared call itself art. Not surprisingly, Rosanjin was also a gourmand who was drawn to food in all its forms. As with art, in food he sought the ideal, the beautiful and the perfect. This in turn greatly influenced his pottery, which often seems to be a kind of meditation on the perfect container for the perfect dish. If you’re interested in experiencing Rosanjin’s pottery first hand, you can do so by calling ahead to Kyūbei (above) where the attention to detailed arrangement is a fitting tribute to pottery whose form so closely follows beauty.

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Map p62

Café ¥ ¥

ミラヴィル インパクト %5524-0417; 2-2-14 Ginza, Chūō-ku, Marronierdori, Gate 10F; desserts from ¥1500; h11am10pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Yūrakuchō (west exit); E It’s hard to know what’s more striking at this trendy café – the chic modern interior of bold colours and angular furniture, or the fact that everything on the menu here

will overload your sweet tooth. Specialising in just dessert, Miravile Impakt serves up an elegant three-course meal that is rounded out by designer teas and speciality coffees.

SAKATA Map p62

Soba & Udon ¥

さか田 %3563-7400; 2nd fl, 1-5-13 Ginza, Chūō-ku; noodles from ¥500; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-10pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-2pm Sat; bYūrakuchō Line to Ginza-itchōme If you eat only one meal out, you’d do well to eat it here. Sakata is widely recognised as one of the city’s most classic noodle spots, and the sanuki udon (a thick, silky noodle of exceptional firmness) here is divine. Gracious Sakata-san doesn’t speak English but will go out of his way to feed you if you look confused. Look for the 2ndfloor sign.

YŪRAKUCHŌ YAKITORI ALLEY Map p62

EATING GINZA

EATING GINZA

Since 1930 tempura at the much esteemed Ten-Ichi has rightfully earned its reputation as supernaturally light and nongreasy. The dignified dining area at the flagship Ginza shop is a pleasure, though you can expect to spend significant coin for the privilege of dining here. Ten-Ichi is regarded as the city’s best tempura, which means you’re going to need a reservation if you want to dine among those in the know.

KYŪBEI Map p62

久兵衛 %3571-6523; 8-7-6 Ginza, Chūō-ku; sushi plates ¥3000-5000; h11.30am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat; bGinza Line to Shimbashi (exit 1)

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GINZA Ginza has always been a stronghold of the

Yakitori ¥

有楽町焼き鳥横丁 Skewers from ¥100; bChiyoda or Hibiya Line to Hibiya (exit 1) Follow the smoke and steam that’s looping its way up from under the railway tracks to this warren of rickety outdoor yakitori stands. Each open-air corner is tended by its own chef who knows everything you’d ever need to about the fine art of grilling chicken. These stands offer little shelter from the elements, so dress accordingly.

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Tsukiji neighbourhood encircles the busiest fish market on earth. It is here that any hardworking, tough-talking fisherman will be proud to tell you that you’ll find the best sushi breakfast in Japan and the freshest sashimi in the world. Enjoy it now while you can, as the ageing market will uproot for bigger digs across Tokyo Bay by 2015.

DAIWA SUSHI Map p65

Sushi & Sashimi ¥ ¥

大和寿司 %3547-6807; Bldg 6, 5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chūō-ku; sushi spread ¥1500-3000; h5pm-1.30am Mon-Sat, closed 2nd Wed of the month; bToei Ōedo Line to Tsukijishijō (exit A2) Lines are pretty much unavoidable at Tsukiji’s best and most famous sushi bar, but once you’re past the noren (curtains) and your first piece of sushi hits the counter, gratification is inevitable. Unless you’re comfortable ordering in Japanese, the chef’s sushi sets are a good bet, which can easily be ordered by simply pointing at the picture menu. Though the staff may be too polite to say so, you’re expected to eat and run so others can partake in this quintessential Tsukiji experience.

EDOGIN Map p65

Sushi & Sashimi ¥

江戸銀 %3543-4401; 4-5-1 Tsukiji, Chūō-ku; sushi spread ¥1000-3000; h11am-9.30pm Mon-Sat; bToei Ōedo Line to Tsukijishijō (exit A2)

SAKANA-YA AJISEN Map pp48–9 Traditional ¥ 味泉 %3534-8483; 1-18-10 Tsukishima, Minato-ku; plates ¥1000-1500; h5.30-10.30pm; bYurikamome Line to Tsukishima (main exit) Although this neighbourhood sake pub is hidden away from the tourist masses on the island of Tsukishima, it’s the real deal, and worth seeking out if you want to sample real brews and indulge on traditional dishes. The

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YAPPARI TAKO Map p65

Izakaya ¥¥

やっぱりたこ %6215-8800; 1st basement fl, Shiodome City Center, Higashi-Shimbashi 1-5-2; plates around ¥1000; h11am-2pm & 5-11pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Shiodome (exit 2D) Although Yappari Tako serves up the full complement of your standard izakaya offerings, the real reason you’re here is to sample its speciality tako (たこ; octopus) dishes. If you’re having hesitations about sucking down a few plates of tentacled titbits, the attentive staff will offer you a glass of the shōchū of the day in order to ease your inhibitions and relax your throat.

DIN TAI FUNG Map p65

Dim Sum ¥

鼎泰豐 %5537-2081; 2nd basement fl, Higashi-Shimbashi 1-8-2, Caretta Shiodome; plates ¥300-500; h11am-9.30pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Shiodome (exit A2) This Taiwanese-style dim sum is the perfect choice for anyone who likes to try a little bit of everything. Whether you’re partial to traditional steamed dumplings and rich custard creams or more adventurous dishes such as chicken feet and fried rice flour balls, we guarantee you’ll eat your fill here. There’s no English menu, but this being dim sum, just inspect the carts as they whisk by your table and simply grab what looks good.

AKIHABARA & KANDA Kanda has a large concentration of longstanding traditional eateries, some specialising in dishes as simple as soba, others serving prewar favourites on traditional tatami. In stark contrast, Akihabara is home to cheap chain restaurants, few of which really stand out.

BOTAN Map p68

Traditional ¥ ¥ ¥

ぼたん %3251-0577; 1-15 Kanda-Sudachō, Chiyoda-ku; set courses around ¥5000; h11.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; bMarunouchi Line to Awajichō (exits A3 & A5) or Toei Shinjuku Line to Ogawamachi (exits A3 & A5)

Botan has been making a single, perfect dish in the same button-maker’s house since before the turn of the last century. Sit cross-legged on bamboo mats as chicken nabe (鍋; meat cooked in broth in an iron pan with vegetables) simmers over a charcoal brazier, allowing you to take in the scent of prewar Tokyo.

ISEGEN Map p68

Traditional ¥ ¥ ¥

いせ源 %3251-1229; 1-11-1 Kanda-Sudachō, Chiyoda-ku; set courses around ¥5000; h11.30am-2pm & 49pm Mon-Sat, closed Sat Jun-Aug; bMarunouchi Line to Awajichō (exits A3 & A5) or Toei Shinjuku Line to Ogawamachi (exits A3 & A5) From early autumn to midspring, this old Edo-style restaurant dishes up monkfish stew in a splendid communal tatami room. The rest of the year, when monkfish is out of season, expect the same traditional surroundings and a menu offering fresh river fish. Although there is no English menu, the communal surroundings mean that it shouldn’t be too hard to point out what you want to eat.

MARUGO TONKATSU Map p68 Tonkatsu ¥ ¥ とんかつ丸五 %3255-6595; 1-8-14 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku; plates ¥2000-3000; h11.30am-3pm & 5-9pm Fri-Wed, closed every 3rd Wed; bJR Yamanote or JR Sōbu Line to Akihabara (Denki-gai exit) In Akihabara’s megawatt circus, Marugo sits serenely unplugged in one of the few prewar houses remaining in the area. Although the serene interior full of nostalgic diners is nothing like the otaku (geek) parade that’s outside, Marugo survives by offerings some seriously delicious tonkatsu atop piles of fresh shredded cabbage.

KANDA YABU SOBA Map p68

Soba ¥

神田やぶそば %3251-0287; 2-10 Kanda-Awajichō, Chiyoda-ku; noodles from ¥500; h11.30am-8pm; bMarunouchi Line to Awajichō (exits A3 & A5) or Toei Shinjuku Line to Ogawamachi (exits A3 & A5); E A wooden wall and a small garden enclose this venerable buckwheat noodle shop. When you walk in, the staff singing out the orders will be one of the first signs that you’ve arrived in a singular, ageless place. Raised tatami platforms and a darkly wooded dining room set the stage for show-stopping soba.

@HOME CAFÉ Map p68 @ほぉ~むカフェ %5294-7704; www.cafe-athome.com; 7F Mitsuwa Bldg, 1-11-4 Soto-kanda, Chiyoda-ku; h11:30am9pm; bSōbu Line to Akihabara (Electric Town exit) Wanna walk on the wild side of Tokyo’s fetish for kawaii (cuteness)? Try being served coffee by girls dressed as French maids! You’ll be welcomed as go-shujinsama (master) the minute you barge into this café. The anime-esque staff, decked out in Victorian pinafores, is drowning in kawaii; titillating, perhaps, but it’s no sex joint. Maid cafés are where Akihabara’s otaku get their kicks. Dishes such as curried rice are even topped with smiley faces. Seconds, anyone?

UENO Holding on to its Shitamachi (Low Town) style and atmosphere, Ueno’s culinary landscape pales in comparison to the bigger players inside the Yamanote (High Town). Of course, after a long day of meandering the halls of Ueno-kōen’s many museums, you may want to stick around for dinner. While the local restaurants aren’t doing anything cutting-edge, they are satisfyingly down-toearth and modestly priced.

SASA-NO-YUKI Map p72

Traditional ¥ ¥

笹乃雪 %3873-1145; 2-15-10 Negishi, Taitō-ku; set courses ¥2000-4000; h11am-9pm Tue-Sun; bJR Yamanote Line to Uguisudani (north exit) Sasa-no-Yuki opened its doors in the thriving Edo period, and continues to serve tofu in elegant arrangements and traditional surroundings. Set meals allow you to sample a broad range of tofu delicacies, the majority of which are as inventive as they are delicious. Strict vegetarians should note that many dishes include chicken and fish stock, if not the meat itself. If you don’t read Japanese, you can select from the set courses based on price.

HANTEI Map p72

EATING UENO

EATING TSUKIJI & SHIODOME

Fat pieces of superfresh sashimi and sushi draw the crowds at this little hole-in-thewall spot just up the way from Tsukiji Central Fish Market. The teishoku (定食; lunchtime set) is a steal at ¥1000, especially since the fish literally comes from up the street. Though there’s nothing in the way of atmosphere, the locals who come here to eat provide the colour you need.

lack of an English menu means you’ll have to work hard here if you don’t speak Japanese, though it’s worth the effort to sample rare koshu (aged sakes) and the house speciality, anago (braised seawater eel).

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TSUKIJI & SHIODOME Right on the waterfront of Tokyo Bay, the

Traditional ¥ ¥

はん亭 %3828-1440; 2-12-15 Nezu, Bunkyō-ku; set courses ¥2000-3000; hnoon-2.30pm & 5-10pm Tue-Sun; bChiyoda Line to Sendagi (south exit) Skewers of kushiage (fried meat, fish and vegetables) arrive at your table six at a

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IZU-EI Map p72

Unagi ¥ ¥

伊豆栄 %3831-0954; 2-12-22 Ueno, Taitō-ku; set courses ¥1500-3000; h11am-2pm & 5-11pm;bJR Yamanote Line to Ueno (Hirokō-ji exit) Izu-ei specialises in unagi (eel), which you can take in two ways: in a bentō (lunch box) that includes tempura and pickled vegetables, or charcoal-grilled, sauced and laid on a bed of steamed rice, as unagi purists might insist. Try to get seated near an upstairs window for the best views of the large lily pads of nearby Shinobazu-ike. Although there is no English menu, there is a picture menu of sliced up eels to help you choose.

FUTABA Map p72

Tonkatsu ¥ ¥

とんかつ双葉 %3835-2672; 2-8-11 Ueno, Taitō-ku; plates around ¥2000; h11am-9pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Ueno (Hirokō-ji exit)

CHALET SWISS MINI Map p72

Swiss ¥

シャレースイスミニ %3822-6034; 3-3-12 Nishi-Nippori, Arakawa-ku; plates ¥1000-1500; h10am-6.30pm Tue & Wed, 10am-9pm Thu-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; bNishinippori (south exit); E Somehow this odd little school and café works. Nestled among the temples and shrines on a hill in Shitamachi, which was spared of the bombing during the war, it looks just like a Swiss chalet on a Hollywood movie set. It serves, not surprisingly, very good fondue, pastries and sandwiches, often to children who are just being let out of class upstairs.

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Kannon-dō) is Tokyo’s most-frequented tourist attraction, the neighbourhood itself retains its own working-class, laugh-out-loud character. Delightfully, almost none of the restaurants cater to tourists, and so, here you are, just another person in the neighbourhood to be fed and then sent gently on your way.

ASAKUSA IMAHAN Map p86

Shabu-Shabu ¥ ¥ ¥

浅草今半 %3841-1114; 3-1-12 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; set courses ¥5000-7000; h11.30am-9.30pm; bGinza Line to Tawaramachi (exit 3); E It’s fitting that the original branch of Imahan, the city’s most famous chain of shabu-shabu restaurants, is located at the heart of Shitamachi. While sitting at low tables on the tatami mats, you can get happy on sake while letting your meat and seasonal vegetables simmer away. Although it’s certainly an expensive affair, a meal at Imahan is the most dignified way to enjoy this much-revered Japanese culinary treat.

KOMAGATA DOJŌ Map p86

Traditional ¥ ¥ ¥

駒形どぜう %3842-4001; 1-7-12 Komagata, Taitō-ku; set courses ¥5000-7000; h11am-9pm; bGinza or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exits A2 & 4) The sixth-generation chef running this marvellous restaurant is continuing the tradition of transforming the humble river fish called the dojō (something like an eel) into various incarnations: grilled to misosimmered to stewed. The open seating around wide, wooden planks heightens the traditional flavour.

SOMETARO Map p86

Okonomiyaki ¥

染太郎 %3844-9502; 2-2-2 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; mains ¥750-1500; hnoon-10pm; bGinza Line to Tawaramachi (exit 3); E Sometaro is a fun and funky place to try okonomiyaki, which are Japanese-style pancakes filled with meat, seafood and vegetables that you cook yourself. It’s a friendly spot where the English menu even includes a how-to guide for even the most culinary challenged of restaurant goers.

DAIKOKUYA Map p86

Tempura ¥

DAIDAIYA Map p92

Asian Fusion ¥ ¥¥

大黒家 %3844-1111; 1-38-10 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; plates from ¥750; h11.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am9pm Sat; bGinza or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit 6); E

橙家 %3588-5087; 9th fl, Belle Vie, 3-1-6 Akasaka, Minato-ku; plates around ¥2000; h11.30am-2pm & 5pm-midnight; bGinza & Marunouchi Lines to Akasaka-mitsuke (exit 2); E

The long line around the building should tell you something about this much-loved tempura place before you catch the unmistakable fragrance of it. Sneak off to the other branch around the corner if the line seems to put too much distance between you and your ebi tendon (shrimp tempura over rice).

Although Asian fusion is all the rage outside Japan, it’s still catching on in Tokyo. Of course, it’s hard not to fall in love with this culinary mish-mash, especially once you’ve realised the benefits of eating rich Thai curries alongside innovative sushi rolls and savoury Chinese dumplings. Although the food at Daidaiya is always creative and daring, it pales in comparison to the restaurant’s eye-arresting ultramodern interior.

NAMIKI YABU SOBA Map p86

Soba ¥

並木やぶそば %3841-1340; 2-11-9 Kaminarimon, Taitō-ku; noodles from ¥500; h11am-10pm Fri-Wed; bGinza or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit A4); E Another member of the Yabu Soba family (see p161 for information on their sister store in Kanda) that has withstood the encroachment of high-rises, this little brown house continues to thrive as it has for almost 100 years. It specialises in tempura soba, which is still served at communal tables allowing for a boisterous dining experience.

AKASAKA This is where both fiscal and governmental business gets done. Good portions of it empty at night as limousines take officials and luminaries elsewhere for secret suppers behind thick doors. But since low-key, nonpower lunches need to happen and movers and shakers often work late, Akasaka has a few real finds in comfortable quarters.

RAKUTEI Map p92

Tempura ¥ ¥ ¥

楽亭 %3585-3743; 6-8-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku; set courses ¥3500-6000; h6-10pm; bChiyoda Line to Akasaka (exit 5) If the Japanese have elevated the deepfried to an art form, then the chefs at Rakutei create masterpieces nightly. The freshest seafood and the lightest tempura batter are prepared to order, resulting in tender prawn and sweet potato that actually does melt in your mouth. Although there isn’t an English menu, you can easily choose a set meal depending on how much yen you’re willing to part with.

ASTERIX Map p92

French ¥ ¥

アステリックス %5561-0980; B1 fl, 6-3-16 Akasaka, Minato-ku; set courses ¥2000-3000; h11am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat; bChiyoda Line to Akasaka (exit 7) Lunch at Asterix is a smashing deal, but dinner has its own merits – not as rushed, so you can linger over your wine while you mull the meal that is pleasantly dulling your senses just so. Portions here are large, but the dining room is petite, so reservations are advised. The menu is in French but not English, which may or may not make things easier on you.

DELHI Map p92

Indian ¥

デリー %3560-5188; 2-14-34 Akasaka, Minato-ku; curries around ¥1000; h11.30am-9.30pm; bChiyoda Line to Akasaka (exit 2) Tropical cultures tout the numerous benefits of eating spicy foods; among them, the flushing of toxins when one begins perspiring with the endorphin rush (or pain, as the case may be). For those who like it hot, Delhi serves a fiery Kashmir curry. Patrons with milder tastes will find equally delicious options on the menu.

LOTUS PALACE Map p92

EATING AKASAKA

EATING ASAKUSA

Like so many homestyle eateries, this place doesn’t look like much, in its nondescript corner building, but who needs charm when you make the best tonkatsu on the block? It’s a bit like a diner with matterof-fact service, but it knows its stuff and needs no gimmicks beyond the edges of the plate.

ASAKUSA Despite the fact that Sensō-ji (Asakusa

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time, counterbalanced with small, refreshing side dishes. Though courses are predetermined, and well worth the wait, you’ll have to decide when you’ve had enough (or they’ll keep coming) and whether to drink sake or beer. The backdrop is a lovely wood-and-bamboo Meiji-era house, which emphasises the Shitamachi charm of the restaurant.

Vietnamese ¥

ロータスパレス %5114-0747; 2-14-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku; noodles from ¥750; h11am-11pm; bGinza & Marunouchi Lines to Akasaka-mitsuke; E Lunch and dinner are an absolute steal at this foreigner-friendly Vietnamese noodle shop, which serves up set-course meals that are centred on huge bowls of pho (rice-noodle soup) and rounded out by

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Konbini (コンビニ; convenience stores) are a way of life for many Tokyoites, and even if you had never set foot in one at home you may find yourself visiting them daily here. Indeed, there seems to be a Sunkus, AM-PM, Lawson, 7-Eleven or Family Mart on just about every corner. Here’s the difference: Japanese convenience-store food tends to be both fresh and of decent quality, and whether you’re going home after a late night or heading out on a hike, it’s hard to do better. Some of our favourite konbini foods: Inari-sushi (いなり寿司) Sushi rice in a tofu pouch. If you find it a little sweet, cut it with soy sauce. Niku-man (肉まん) Steamed buns filled with pork, pizza flavourings, curry sauce and more. Oden (おでん) Fish cakes, hard-boiled egg, vegetables and more, stewing in a dashi (fish-stock) broth. Enjoy with hot mustard. It’s not winter without it. Onigiri (おにぎり) King of them all. A triangle of rice with a dollop of some treasure inside (salmon, tuna salad, marinated kelp etc), wrapped in a plastic sheath together with a sheet of nori (seaweed).

Quite possibly one of the hottest restaurants in the city at the time of writing, this inevitable crowd pleaser offers open-air dining overlooking the gardens of Tokyo Midtown. As these tables are some of the most in-demand seats in the capital, you would be wise to book in advance (in fact it’s necessary) to ensure that you don’t let down your better half. Although true Italian connoisseurs may find fault in the slight Japan-isation of the menu, the food here is nevertheless spectacular, and the alfresco dining is arguably the city’s best.

HAWKER STYLE ASIAN CANTEEN Map pp96–7

shrimp spring rolls and mung-bean pudding. If you need to put an extra spring in your step, the syrupy Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk will get you where you want to be.

ROPPONGI At any given hour, the population of Roppongi probably maintains the highest saturation of ethnic diversity (and perhaps also the highest saturation, drinkwise) in Tokyo. Long the district favoured by randy foreigners on R&R and Tokyo party people, it’s also adjacent to nearby embassies and upmarket hotels. So while some Roppongi restaurants serve indifferent sustenance to those merely fuelling up for a long night, some of Tokyo’s more refined culinary experiences exist amid the madness.

CHINA ROOM Chinese ¥ ¥ ¥

チャイナルーム %4333-8785; 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku; set courses from ¥6000; h11.30am-2.30pm & 610pm; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 1c & 3); E Located inside the world-famous Grand Hyatt Tokyo at Roppongi Hills, the China Room offers the most lavish and refined Chinese cuisine in the capital. From perfectly roasted Peking duck and fragrant shark-fin soup to rare oolong teas and handcrafted dumplings, the China Room is a feast for the senses that never fails to disappoint. In addition to widely known culinary classics, the China Room also offers rare Japanese seafood delicacies such as Niigata snow crab and Hokkaidō uni (sea urchin roe).

Sushi & Sashimi ¥ ¥ ¥

福寿司 %3402-4116; 5-7-8 Roppongi, Minato-ku; sushi spreads from ¥5000; h11am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 3) Arguably some of Tokyo’s best sushi is served at Fukuzushi’s lovely wooden counter, where the chefs can satisfy your palate with conventional favourites, but could just as easily piece together something more innovative if you wish. Reservations aren’t taken at this popular spot, so plan on a few minutes’ wait, though it’s a small inconvenience to dine on what will probably be the best sushi dinner of your life. There are no English menus, though you can always point at whatever sliver of fish takes your fancy – if money is no object, then this is the place to go big.

INAKAYA Map pp96–7

Owned by a Japanese man who fell in love with ‘chicken rice’, the national dish of Singapore, Hawker Style Asian Canteen is a small slice of Southeast Asia in the heart of Roppongi. If you’ve never eaten chicken rice before, the dish is basically chicken and rice (no surprise there), though the accompanying sauces and broth (for cleansing the palette) can make this a truly sublime culinary experience.

MOTI Map pp96–7

Indian ¥

モティ %3479-1939; 6-2-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku; plates around ¥1000; h11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exits 1C & 3)

Traditional ¥ ¥

田舎屋 %3408-5040; 5-3-4 Roppongi, Minato-ku; dishes around ¥2000; h5pm-5am; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Lines to Roppongi (exit 3) Once you’re bombarded with greetings at the door, the action doesn’t stop at this old-guard robatayaki (a place that grills food that goes beautifully with booze). It’s a party, it’s joyous, it’s boisterous – and that goes for the profusion of toothsome dishes as well as the attitude one must have when the bill arrives. Live large!

VINOTECA Map pp96–7

海南鶏飯食堂 %5474-3200; 6-11-16 Roppongi, Minato-ku; plates around ¥1000; h11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exits 1C & 3); E

Italian ¥ ¥¥

ヴィノテカ %5647-8301; Tokyo Midtown, Minato-ku; dishes around ¥2000; h11am-3pm & 5pm-late; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 8); E

THE GENTLE ART OF JAPANESE COOKING Think you’ve got what it takes to fry up some mean tempura? The following two schools will help get you started: Konishi Japanese Cooking Class (Map p102; %3714-8859; www.seiko-osp.com/private/sekigu/ kjcc/index.htm; 1405 Nissei Meguro-Mansion; 3-1-7 Meguro, Meguro-ku; bNamboku or Mita Line to Meguro, west exit, or JR Yamanote Line to Meguro, main exit) Friendly English instruction with small class sizes. A Taste of Culture (%5716-5751; http://tasteof culture.com) Offers Japanese cooking courses and market tours in various locations around the city.

YAKINIKU TORAJI INTERNATIONAL Map pp96–7

Yakiniku ¥ ¥

焼肉トラジインターナショナル %5786-2888; Roppongi Hills, Roppongi 6-chōme; plates ¥750-1000; h11am-11pm; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 1C); E Although it originates from the humble Korean dish known as bulgogi, yakiniku (grilled meat) at this Roppongi Hills establishment is anything but ordinary. Choose from a variety of immaculate cuts of meat, and then slow roast them over charcoals. Next, dip your perfectly cooked slices of meat in a variety of sauces before popping them into your mouth – delicious!

EBISU & DAIKANYAMA Ebisu and Daikanyama, though not on most short-term visitors’ radar, are home to a grown-up creative community of 30- and 40something designers, artists and architects. As such, the neighbourhoods are full of independent boutiques and European-style cafés, and the area’s sophisticated aesthetics and flavours reflect a hip and worldly population.

MUSHROOM Map p102

French ¥ ¥

マッシュルーム %5489-1346; 2nd fl, 1-16-3 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuyaku; set courses from ¥3000; h11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (west exit) Chef Yamaoka’s obsession with the taming of the ’shroom has sprouted this very cosy little French bistro, whose décor is dominated by a mushroom motif, of course. Three-course set lunches are amazing value and will transport you elsewhere – without the mindaltering side effects of course. Japanese skills will help in making a reservation, and French skills will help in interpreting the menu.

EATING EBISU & DAIKANYAMA

EATING ROPPONGI

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Map pp96–7

FUKUZUSHI Map pp96–7

Singaporean ¥

Loved by local expats, Moti maintains a loyal base of foodies who come for the set lunches and well-seasoned curries. Settle into one of the comfortable booths and watch as first one embassy staffer and then another comes and goes. Moti can fill to the rafters around noon.

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BEAM ME TO THE KONBINI

RICO’S KITCHEN Map p102

International ¥ ¥

リコスキッチン %5791-4649; 2nd fl, 4-23-7 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; plates around ¥2000; h11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (east exit)

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ZEST CANTINA EBISU Map p102

Mexican ¥

ゼストキャンティーナ恵比寿 %5475-6291; 1-22-19 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; plates ¥1500-2000; h11.30am-3.30am Mon-Sat; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (east exit); E You’d be forgiven for thinking you were eating Tex-Mex somewhere in America after walking into this cavernous Ebisu institution. Although the jumbo margaritas, enormous bowls of nachos and sizzling hot plates of fajitas are reason enough to stop

by, there’s something endearing about Japanese waiting staff in cowboy boots and hats.

TOKI-NO-MA Map p102

Izakaya ¥

時の間 %5722-8600; 2nd fl, 2-3-14 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; plates around ¥1500; h4.30pm-late; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (west exit) True to the Ebisu spirit, this izakaya is a class act. For your drinking pleasure, the attentive staff can recommend any number of limited-edition sakes, which change constantly depending on the season. For your eating pleasure, the attentive staff can recommend any number of unique dishes including satusma-ryouri (Kyūshū-style cuisine), wild game birds and a full assortment of seafood delicacies. Although there is no English menu, set courses are available if you can’t speak Japanese.

SELF-CATERING

Asian Fusion ¥

COUCAGNO Map p106

French ¥ ¥ ¥

モンスーンカフェ %5789-3811; www.global-dining.com; 4-4-6 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; plates ¥1000-1500; h11.30am3.30am Mon-Sat; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (east exit); E

クーカーニョ %3476-3000; 40th fl, Cerulean Tower, 26-1 Sakuragaokachō, Shibuya-ku; set courses from ¥6000; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-10pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit); E

Monsoon serves up a variety of pan-Asian cuisine from peanut satays to steamed shrimp dumplings in an evocative tropical café setting. Alfresco seating and fruity cocktails help stave off the oppression of Tokyo’s notoriously muggy summers, while tropical lagers and spicy curries will help you escape the depression of Tokyo’s notoriously grey winters.

Few restaurants in Tokyo can claim more stunning views than the highly praised Coucagno, which occupies the 40th floor of the Cerulean Tower, one of the most dramatic buildings in both Shibuya and Tokyo. From such lofty heights, the Shibuya street scene looks as if it’s populated by tiny ants, though attention quickly shifts to the food once the chef gets going. As you’d expect, everything from the delicate sauces drizzled across your roast duck to the perfect crust atop your crème brûlée is indeed a class act.

CAFFÉ MICHELANGELO Map p102

Café ¥

カフェミケランジェロ %3770-9517; 29-3 Sakuragaokachō, Shibuya-ku; plates ¥500-1000; h11am-11pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (west exit); E Stylish Daikanyama is exactly the locale this Parisian-style café is meant to occupy. The smart set comes here to be seen, but you could just as easily blend into the background. Pavement seating makes it a fine summertime lunch stop, with lovely reasonably priced lunch sets to enjoy with wine.

CAFÉ ARTIFAGOSE Map p102

Café ¥

カフェアルトファゴス %5489-1133; 20-23 Daikanyama, Shibuya-ku; plates ¥500-1000; h11am-11pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (west exit); E Follow your nose towards the yeasty scent of baking bread, and you’ll wind up at Café Artifagose where strong coffee and fine cheese and bread are your reward. If the neighbourhood shops tempt you more than a leisurely lunch does, pick up a pastry for later.

SHIBUYA After seeing the teenagers cruising Shibuya crossing and clusters of young fashionistas awaiting their cohorts at Hachikō Plaza, your attention span might only allow you a quick bite at a greasy spoon near the station before darting back into the melee. But for those nights when you need a bigger gastronomic thrill, stray outwards onto the streets spoking away from Shibuya Station and discover the neighbourhood’s more sophisticated delights.

KUJIRAYA Map p106

Traditional ¥ ¥ ¥

鯨屋 %3461-9145; 2-29-22 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; set courses from ¥5000; h11am-10pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit) We’ll leave it to you and your dinner companions to debate the ethics of this surprisingly popular restaurant, which serves nothing but whale meat. Conservation, environmentalism and morality aside, there are few places in the world where you can sample whale sashimi, fried blubber and fin steaks, though you’re going to have to leave your politics at the door. Although there is no English menu, you can order set menus based on price – whale meat isn’t cheap, which is probably to do with the fact that they’re endangered.

MAYU (COCOON) Map p106

Wine Bar ¥ ¥

繭 %5453-0301; 40-3 Kamiyamachō, Shibuya-ku; plates around ¥2000; h6pm-late; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit); E

EATING SHIBUYA

EATING EBISU & DAIKANYAMA

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Even if you’re here with money to burn, a visit to an everyday market or to the food halls in the more elegant department store basements (see p171) is well worth the time. Traditional family-owned shops are dotted around the city, and most sell seasonal produce (such as summer melons, autumn persimmons and winter strawberries) and daily basics such as fish, seaweed and rice. International supermarkets cater to Western palates. Although they charge import prices, fussy resident expats would starve without them. Kinokuniya International Supermarket (Map p110; %3409-1236; 3-11-7 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h9.30am-8pm; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omote-sandō, exit B2) Kinokuniya carries expat lifesavers such as Marmite and peanut butter, Belgian chocolate and herbal tea. Foreign imports such as cheese, salami and Finnish bread generally fetch high prices, much like the flawless fruit in the produce section. An interim store at 3.11.13 Minami-Aoyama (p110) is located just further south along Aoyama-dōri. Meidi-ya (Map pp96–7; %3401-8511; 7-15-14 Roppongi, Minato-ku; h10am-9pm; bHibiya Line to Roppongi, exit 2) Established in the 19th century, not too long after strangers in black ships started arriving on Japan’s shores, Meidi-ya specialises in higher-end groceries for foreign predilections. It’s a midsized store with a corresponding selection of goods, so you should find ample fixings for a picnic. There are other locations throughout the city. National Azabu (Map pp96–7; %3442-3181; 4-5-2 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku; h9.30am-7pm; bHibiya Line to Hiro-o, exit 2) Based in Azabu, where a high concentration of expats also happen to base themselves, National Azabu carries an impressive array of expat staples such as imported cheeses, wines, Vegemite and natural foods as well as hard-to-find produce. Also notable is the pharmacy with English-speaking staff and the small bookshop upstairs. Natural House (Map p110; %3498-2277; 3-6-18 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku; h10am-10pm; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omote-sandō, exit B4) Natural House serves the ecoconscious trendsters around Aoyama, meeting a growing demand for whole foods and organic produce. Along with bricks of rye loaves and pricey but nutritious bentō (boxed lunch), Natural House also peddles natural beauty products and health supplements. Yamaya (Map p92; %3583-5657; 2-14-33 Akasaka, Minato-ku; h10am-9pm; bChiyoda Line to Akasaka, exit 2) Yamaya’s shelves are stuffed primarily with European wines, though there’s also a representative selection of American and Australian grape as well. Most branches are discount retailers and offer some imported packaged foods in addition to wines and liquors.

MONSOON Map p102

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From light and fruity California wines to juicy New Zealand rack of lamb, this international bistro brings together the best flavours from around the globe to create some truly innovative meals. With vaulted wooden ceilings and hand-brushed walls, the setting at Rico’s Kitchen is personal and relaxed, which makes this the perfect spot for slowing down and enjoying the art of fine cuisine.

Arguably the strangest restaurant you’ve ever seen, the ultrachic interior of this trendy spot is highlighted by several fibreglass cocoons, each of which can seat up to four people. Although the cuisine is international with a strong European influence, the focus here is on the wine, with dishes chosen by the chef to highlight the selected bottles of the day. It can certainly get pricey to sample a few different bottles and dishes, but sipping wine and dining on homemade pasta in the comfort of your

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SONOMA Map p106

Californian ¥

ソノマ %3462-7766; 2-25-17 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; plates ¥1500-2000; h6-11.30pm Sun-Thu, 6pm4am Fri & Sat; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit); E Favourites such as polenta fries and pork chops with sage, brown sugar and apples form the mainstay of this unpretentiously inspired and priced Californian fusion menu. The interior resembles a Sonoma wine country restaurant and the menu is complemented by a strong selection of Californian wines.

EL CASTELLANO Map p106

Spanish ¥

エルカステリャーノ %3407-7197; 2nd fl, 2-9-12 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; plates ¥500-2000; h6-11pm Mon-Sat; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (east exit); E El Castellano’s success could be attributed to the warmth of its owner, who casts a friendly eye over the evening’s progress and affectionately greets his regulars with sunny Spanish hospitality. But that would discount the definite draw of his homestyle cooking, including a mean paella and the sangria that goes so well with it.

OKINAWA Map p106

Okinawan Izakaya ¥¥

If you’ve never been to the far-flung tropical islands of Okinawa, then this speciality izakaya will have you racing to the travel agent. Start things off right with a cold Orion Beer or a potent glass of awamori (Okinawan-style shōchū), and then jump right into Okinawan staples such as mimiga (pig ears), suki-soba (Okinawan-style soba) and rafute (stewed pork with brown sugar).

SHIZENKAN II Map p106

Vegetarian ¥

自然館 %3486-0281; 3-9-2 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; plates ¥500-1500; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (east exit); E Strict vegans and vegetarians looking to sample Japanese favourites may find it tough in Tokyo, though Shizenkan II fills

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HARAJUKU & AOYAMA Like the boutiques and galleries that flank Omote-sandō, and the winding lanes that diverge from it, the cafés and eateries in this area experiment relentlessly and insist on finding new directions. New takes on old standards abound and Western fuses with Japanese as chefs strive to become inventors in order to make a name. Surprisingly, all this innovation can be had without sacrificing comfort and beauty in the name of economy.

NOBU Map p110

Modern Japanese ¥ ¥ ¥

信 %5467-0022; 6-10-17 Minami-Aoyama, Minatoku; set courses from ¥6000; h11.30am-3.30pm & 5.30-10pm Mon-Fri, 6-11.30pm Sat & Sun; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omotesandō (exit B1); E Stemming from a childhood wish to become a sushi chef, Nobu Matsuhisa now has namesake restaurants in cities on four continents. His 1993 foray into the New York scene was financed by Robert De Niro, with subsequent Nobu restaurants established in Milan, Paris, London, Melbourne and Tokyo. His stunning, cutting-edge Japanese food doesn’t come cheap, but the experience of eating here is simply phenomenal.

FONDA DE LA MADRUGADA Map p110

Mexican ¥ ¥¥

フォンダデラマドゥルガーダ %5410-6288; 2nd basement fl, 2-33-12 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; plates around ¥2000; h5.30pm-2am Sun-Thu, 5.30pm-5am Fri & Sat; bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku (Takeshita exit); E Mariachis stroll through the enclosed courtyard – in a basement hacienda! – as you tuck into chiles rellenos (stuffed chillies) or appraise the mole (savoury, spicy chocolate sauce) drizzled over chicken or enchiladas. This is one of the few authentic Mexican restaurants in Tokyo free of grim guacamole and unfortunate Tex-Mex flourishes.

TETSUGEN NIKUSHO Map p110

Izakaya ¥ ¥

鐡玄 肉匠 %5774-4533; 1-5-6 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; plates ¥1500-2000; h6pm-1am; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omote-sandō (exit A2) There’s no shortage of bizarre (at least to a Western palate) delicacies on offer at Tetsugen Nikusho, which offers refined rustic yet sophisticated ambience in the heart of Tokyo. Depending on how brave (or drunk) you’re feeling, you can sample a whole range of traditional Japanese meats including rabbit, boar, deer, horse and frog as well as a whole bunch of sea critter parts that don’t really translate into English. Sadly, there isn’t an English menu on offer, though sometimes it’s better not to know what you’re eating.

NATURAL HARMONY ANGOLO Map p110

Vegetarian ¥¥

ナチュラルハーモニーアンゴロ %3405-8393; 3-38-12 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; plates ¥1500-2000; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-9pm Tue-Sun; bGinza Line to Gaienmae (exit 2) Downshift to the pace of Natural Harmony Angolo, where the wholesome food is pure and so is the smoke-free air. The menu is largely vegetarian, augmented with some fish dishes; set meals featuring the delicately prepared vegetables du jour come with a choice of white or brown rice. Try some cold, cloudy sake with your meal and meditatively decompress.

HANNIBAL DEUX Map p110

North African ¥ ¥

ハンニバル ドゥ %3479-3710; 3-53-3 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; plates ¥1000-3000; h11.30am-2pm & 5.30pmmidnight; bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku (Takeshita exit); E Even if you’ve never been to Tunisia (or had Tunisian food for that matter), you’ll recognise the fiery tajines and savoury couscous dishes on offer at this North African restaurant. The chef and much of the staff do in fact come from Tunisia, which is about all the proof you need that the food here is about as authentic as you’ll find in Japan.

MOMINOKI HOUSE Map p110

Japanese Health Food ¥

モミノキハウス %3405-9144; 2-18-5 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; plates ¥1000-2000; h11am-11pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku (Takeshita exit); E Boho Tokyoites and personages such as

Paul McCartney and Stevie Wonder have descended into Mominoki House’s multilevel, rabbit warren of a dining room since 1976. Chef Yamada’s menu consists mostly of Japanese wholefoods, much of it vegetarian but also including organically raised Australian perch and Hokkaidō venison. Food here is lovingly prepared, and enriching to both body and soul.

MAISEN Map p110

Tonkatsu ¥

まい泉 %3470-0071; 4-8-5 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; plates ¥750-1000; h11am-10pm; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omote-sandō (exit A2) Set in a converted public bathhouse, Maisen is rightfully famous for its tonkatsu – choose from shrimp, pork or premium kurobuta (black pig). There’s also a takeaway window for picking up bentō of tonkatsu accompanied by packets of Maisen’s savoury dipping sauce.

NABI Map p110

Yakiniku ¥

ナビ %5771-0071; 2-31-20 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; plates ¥500-1000; h11am-2.30pm & 6-11.30pm; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omotesandō (exit A2) Paying tribute to its progressive surroundings, Nabi offers an organic spin on the traditional Korean dish of yakiniku. While you’re grilling your meat and veg at your private tabletop barbecue, stop for a moment to appreciate the fact that you’re eating healthily and making the environment a cleaner place at the same time.

SHINJUKU At the end of the work day, a few million sturdy pairs of shoes carry Shinjuku’s workforce out of office doors towards the train stations. To avoid the worst of rush hour, most stop along the way for yakitori or rāmen or a more convivial sit-down affair with colleagues. Once inside most eateries on the east side of the station, the pace slows and the light show outside disappears. On the west side, restaurants within the towers of the luxury hotels are designed for the view-hungry.

EATING SHINJUKU

EATING HARAJUKU & AOYAMA

沖縄 %3464-2576; 1st basement fl, Shibuya Deli Tower, 2-23-13 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; plates around ¥1000; h5.30-11pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit); E

the gap with gluten cutlets and substantial lunch sets of prettily arranged piles of vegies. The food is flavourful and packs a nutritional wallop, and there’s even a health food shop in the front part of the restaurant in case you’re looking to stock the fridge at home.

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own cocoon is about as surreal a dining experience as you can imagine.

NEW YORK GRILL Map p116 Continental ¥ ¥ ¥ ニューヨークグリル %5323-3458; 52nd fl, Park Hyatt Hotel, 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; set courses from

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You may not be staying at the Park Hyatt, but don’t let that stop you from ascending to the 52nd floor to swoon over the stunning views of the city below. Splurge on a romantic, sumptuous supper backlit by sparkling night-time lights and live jazz. And yes, in case everything looks a bit familiar, the adjacent New York Bar (p181) was in fact where Bill Murray drank glass upon glass of Suntory whiskey in Sofia Coppola’s Lost in Translation. Reservations are advised, especially on weekends and for brunch.

KUSHIYA MONOGATARI Map p116

Traditional ¥ ¥

串家物語 %5728-2494; 1st basement fl, Shibuya Cine Tower, 2-6-17 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; set course ¥2500; h4-10.30pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit) The Tokyo branch of this popular Osaka chain specialises in kushiage, which are deep-fried skewers of grilled meats, fish and vegetables. For the bargain price of only ¥2500, you have up to two hours to fry up at your tabletop as many skewers as you’d like, though this is one of the few Japanese foods where it’s probably best to go easy and consider your waistline.

DAIDAYA Map p116

Asian Fusion ¥ ¥

Unabashedly cool with modern Balinesestyle design accents from floor to ceiling, this ultrasophisticated Asian fusion restaurant offers a nouvelle take on this already inventive cuisine. Dishes such as Kyshustyle sausages with homemade wasabimayonnaise are individually crafted works of art, and are presented in slow but steady stages to allow for the maximum amount of appreciation.

IMAHAN Map p116

Traditional ¥

今半 %5361-1871; 14th fl, 5-24-2 Sendagaya, Shibuyaku; plates around ¥1500; h11am-11pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku (new south exit); E Upstairs from the huge Takashimaya Times

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DADA CAFÉ Map p116

Café ¥

ダダカフェ %3350-2245; 5-23-10 Sendagaya, Shinjuku-ku; plates around ¥1000; h11.30am-11pm; bJR Yamanote to Yoyogi (east exit) This retro café, which is housed in a 70-year-old tenement building straight out of the Shōwa era, is a charming spot to reminisce about a Tokyo most of us have never known. While taking tea and noshing on immaculate spreads of honest Japanese cooking, take a moment to reflect on the Zenlike beauty of your surroundings.

PARK HYATT DELICATESSEN Map p116

Deli ¥¥

パークハイアットデリカテッセン %5323-3635; 1st fl, Park Hyatt Hotel, 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; sandwiches around ¥1000; h8am-8pm; bToei Ōedo Line to Tochōmae (exit A4); E Stop by the Park Hyatt Hotel for what is undoubtedly Tokyo’s top spot for New York– style sandwiches, which will make even the most hardened New Yorker sob for home. Everything from the sesameseed–coated crusty loaves of bread to the protein-packed slabs of cured Parma ham is either homemade on-site or imported direct from the source, which is why everything here just tastes so damn good.

CHRISTON CAFÉ Map p116

DEPACHIKA Hungry for the next culinary novelty, OLs (office ladies) and o-bāsan (grandmotherly types) prowl the mazes of depachika, the cavernous food halls in department store basements. Depachika often take up several floors, housing a staggering array of foodstuffs of the highest order, freshly prepared and often gorgeously packaged for presentation as gifts. Depending on the most au courant food trends, you could find black truffle oil or dessert vinegar just round the corner from the more traditional 573 grades of the season’s green tea and wagashi (delicate candies). Though samples are harder to come by these days, the sharp-eyed will find nibbles of sublime chocolate, sesame-seed sembei (crunchy rice crackers) and dried squid. Large department stores are often attached to major train stations – über-convenient for picking up museum-quality bentō (boxed lunch) for dinner, picnic items for a sunny afternoon or a fancy gift of flower-shaped okashi (sweets). If you can read Japanese, do as obsessive OLs do and monitor the day’s specials on www.depachika.com. If not, descend into one of the following basements, among Tokyo’s best depachika. Isetan (Map p116; %3352-1111; 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h10am-8pm; bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-sanchōme, exits B3, B4 & B5) The grandmother of them all. Matsuya (Map p62; %3567-1211; 3-6-1 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h10.30am-7.30pm; bGinza, Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza, exits A12 & A13) An upmarket Ginza stalwart. Also has branches in Asakusa and Ahikabara (see p137). Mitsukoshi (Map p62; %3241-3311; 4-6-16 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun; bGinza, Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza, exit A7) Classic style and status at this Ginza institution. Further outlets can be found in Ikebukuro, Marunouchi and Ebisu (see p136). Seibu (Map p122; %3981-0111; 1-28-1 Minami-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm Sun; bJR Yamanote Line to Ikebukuro, east exit) Spanning several city blocks, with a particularly comprehensive spice market. Takashimaya Times Square (Map p116; %5361-1111; 5-24-2 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; h10am-8pm, closed some Wed; bJR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku, new south exit) Like the 15-storey department store above it, this depachika is enormous.

KINKANTEI Map p116

Soba ¥

きんかん亭 %3356-6556; 2-17-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; noodles from ¥500; h7pm-late; bJR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku (east exit) Although the heart of Tokyo’s gay district is the last place you’d expect to find a 200year-old soba shop, Kinkantei is the real thing. Although purists swear that soba this traditional should just be eaten as is, more avant-garde diners can dress their dishes up with a whole slew of treats including the restaurant’s signature deep-fried nattō (fermented beans) wrapped in seaweed.

Izakaya ¥

クリストンカフェ %5287-2426; 8th fl, 5-17-13 Shinjuku, Shinjukuku; plates ¥500-1000; h5-11pm Mon, 5pm-5am Tue-Sat; bMarunouchi Line to Shinjuku-sanchōme (exit B5) Irreverent in the most orthodox sense of the word, this cathedral-like izakaya fetishises the Catholic aesthetic and turns this dining experience into something your inner goth will love. Reservations are definitely required here to feast on small plates to share with your brethren under gigantic altars and doleful images of the pietà.

OMOIDE-YOKOCHŌ Map p116

Yakitori ¥

思い出横丁 Nishi-Shinjuku 1-chōme, Shinjuku-ku; skewers from ¥100; bJR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku (west exit) Literally translated as ‘Memory Lane’ (and less politely known as ‘Piss Alley’) Omoideyokochō will be but a memory when it’s razed to make way for new development by mid-2009. A remnant of postwar Tokyo, the alley is lined with wooden shacks selling yakitori and cold beers to long-time regulars – stop by around 7pm to indulge in a few skewers and preemptive nostalgia.

IKEBUKURO After an afternoon spent wandering around Ikebukuro, you’ll have noticed that many of the area’s eateries are jammed with young salarymen with a bit of time on their hands. Accordingly, many places are very cheap and rather uninspired. However, nearby Takadanobaba, which is located at the crossroads of several universities, has its artsy cafés and international restaurants catering to students with big appetites and smaller budgets.

SHAMAIM off Map p122

Israeli ¥ ¥

シャマイム %3948-5333; 2nd fl, Art Bldg, 4-11 Sakae-cho, Nerima-ku; buffet ¥2000; h5pm-midnight, TueFri, noon-midnight Sat & Sun; bSeibu-Ikebukuro Line to Ekoda (south exit); E

EATING IKEBUKURO

EATING SHINJUKU

橙屋 %5362-7173; 3rd fl, Shinjuku Nowa Bldg, 3-3712 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; plates around ¥2000; h5pm-midnight; bJR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku (east exit); E

Square branch of Tōkyũ Hands department store, Imahan is all about beef. Apart from the house specialities of sukiyaki and shabu-shabu, Imahan serves such delicacies as fugu, marbled beef sashimi and scaleddown kaiseki dinners. Come with comrades, as this cookery is meant to be shared for maximum merriment.

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¥6000; h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-10.30pm; bToei Ōedo Line to Tochōmae (exit A4); E

A quick train ride from Ikebukuro will bring you to this Israeli-owned restaurant, which serves up an incredible all-you-can-eat feast that’ll having you dreaming about a trip to the Middle East. Gorge yourself on pita, hummus, meat skewers, cucumber salads and rice pilaf, but be sure to save some room for a hot cup of mint tea, some syrupy baklava and the obligatory apple

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small-plate affairs, allowing you to sample and share while swigging a Singha. While not the most complicated Thai food around, the room’s feel more than makes up for it.

SASASHŪ Map p122

BEN’S CAFE Map p122

Izakaya ¥

笹周 %3971-9363; 2-2-6 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; plates ¥1000-1500; h5-10pm Mon-Sat; bMarunouchi Line to Ikebukuro (exit C5) Sasashũ’s Japanese-style façade is easy to pick out between the modern concrete strip joints nearby. This relaxed izakaya is known for its highbrow sake selection and its traditional hearth, as well as some more unusual offerings including a rich and hearty kamonabe (duck stew). Japanese skills are helpful here, but you can also point at what others are enjoying to order for yourself.

TAVERNA Map p122

Local Waseda students and expats come to Ben’s to quell cravings for bagels or Belgian beer – or just to chill. The patio out front is a good place to sip wine and watch life amble by on warm evenings. Ben’s also hosts poetry readings and art exhibitions by local artists, and it has wi-fi access.

GYROS HERO Italian ¥

Map p122

Greek ¥

タベルナ %3232-1997; 2-5-10 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; plates around ¥1000; h5-10.30pm Mon-Sat; bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba (main exit); E

ヒーロスヒーロー %3205-8207; 2-14-5 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; plates ¥500-1000; h11am-11pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba (main exit); E

There are reasons why some people eat here every night, and why the sommelier, who started hanging around 23 years ago while still a student at Waseda, finally landed a job. Authenticity’s a part of it, but the charm of the owner probably clinches such unflagging loyalty. Easily the warmest Italian joint in the city, and you can’t beat the price.

A popular student haunt that offers great value for your yen, Gyros Hero puts together some seriously monster pitas, packed to the gills with meat and salad, and served up with sauces and golden fries. The Greek-inspired décor of soft pastels and pictures of tiny sun-drenched isles is a world away from the concrete and neon outside.

MARMARA Map p122

AKIYOSHI Map p122

Turkish ¥

The tiny wooden shack that marks the entrance and dispenses dirt-cheap takeaway kebab is so small you might pass it by without remark. Once through the door, however, you’ll see the stairs leading down to the spacious seating area where there’s sometimes live music, but always solicitous staff and a dizzying choice of Turkish delights. Thai ¥

カオ·タイ %3204-5806; 2-14-6 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; curries around ¥1000; h11.30am-2pm & 5-10pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba (main exit) From the bamboo-framed doorway to its snug dining room, Kao Tai feels like a warm slice of Southeast Asia. Most dishes are

Yakitori ¥

秋吉 %3982-0601; 3-30-4 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshimaku; plates around ¥500; h5-11pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Ikebukuro (west exit)

JAPANESE BREAKFAST A traditional Japanese breakfast consists of rice, miso soup and pickles, some kind of cooked egg, a piece of grilled fish and a cup of green tea. Tokyoites are also known to be fond of nattō (fermented soya beans; see the boxed text, p159) for breakfast, mixed into the rice with a dab of hot mustard. That said, the breakfast of choice for more and more Japanese these days is a cup of coffee, a thick slab of white toast, an egg and a small green salad. You can enjoy this as a mōningu setto (モーニン グセット; morning set) at small coffee houses for between ¥450 and ¥600. Many hotels serve both Western- and Japanese-style breakfasts.

lifts and skyscrapers on the opposite shore. How charming then at such a soaring height that this little spot, with its tiny counter and virtuosic sushi chefs, makes you feel like a bird in a very warm nest. If you’re travelling with a loved one, dining on sushi of this quality at such lofty heights is a romantic and altogether memorable experience, especially if the weather is cooperating.

SUMIDA RIVER Primarily a suburban residential area, the

TSUKIJI TAMA SUSHI

neighbourhoods east of Sumida-gawa are home to few noteworthy restaurants that are worth seeking out. However, if you have any interest in trying chankonabe (ちゃんこ鍋), the sumō wrestler’s staple, it’s worth heading to Ryōgoku for lunch or dinner.

TOMOEGATA Map p122

Chankonabe ¥ ¥

巴潟 %3632-5600; 2-17-6 Ryōgoku, Sumida-ku; set course from ¥1500; h11am-11pm; bJR Sōbu Line to Ryogoku (west exit) Given the preponderance of sumō stables in Ryōgoku, it’s only natural that you’d find restaurants serving the calorie-rich chankonabe. Recipes vary for this hearty stew, but count on beef, chicken, pork, fish and/or seasonal vegetables. Tomoegata has been serving it for generations – go with a group, or eat it all by yourself if you want to become big like a sumō wrestler.

ODAIBA & AROUND This artificially constructed pleasure island serves as a quick and easy escape for stressed out Tokyoites looking for a little R&R. Not surprisingly, Odaiba is home to dozens of restaurants catering to every conceivable taste and budget. Eating in Odaiba also means food with a view, especially if you cosy up alongside a picture window and gaze out across the bay.

ŌSHIMA ENDOMAE-DOKORO Map p131

Sushi & Sashimi ¥ ¥ ¥

大志満江戸前処 %5556-4808; 30th fl, Hotel Grand Pacific Le Meridien, 2-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; sushi spread from ¥6000; h11am-11pm; bYurikamome Line to Daiba (south exit); E The 30th floor of the Hotel Grand Pacific Le Meridien affords broad views of the cranes,

Map p131

Sushi & Sashimi ¥ ¥

築地玉寿司 %3599-6556; 5th fl, Decks Tokyo Beach, 1-61 Daiba, Minato-ku; sushi spread from ¥2500; h11am-11pm; bYurikamome Line to Odaiba Kaihin-kōen (main exit); E Settle yourself near the windows and sip from a huge, earthy cup of green tea while you wait for your sushi, which will come immaculately presented and perfectly fresh. The menu also includes set meals and udon if you prefer, though either way, this is a pleasant corner from which to take in good Japanese food and bay views.

HIBIKI Map p131

Japanese Pub ¥

響 %3599-5500; 6th fl, Aquacity Odaiba, 1-7-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; plates ¥1000-1500; h11am-11pm; bYurikamome Line to Daiba (south exit); E The inventive menu at this Japanese pubstyle restaurant emphasises top-quality meats and hearty side dishes, all of which perfectly accompany the extensive selection of booze on offer. However, don’t let all of this fine food and drink distract you from the incredible views of the Rainbow Bridge sweeping across Tokyo Bay.

GOMPACHI Map p131

Izakaya ¥

権八 %3599-4807; 4th fl, Aquacity Odaiba, 1-7-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; plates ¥1000-1500; h11am-11pm; bYurikamome Line to Daiba (south exit); E

EATING SUMIDA RIVER

EATING IKEBUKURO

ママラ %3227-5940; 4-9-9 Takadanobaba, Shinjukuku; plates around ¥1000; h11am-11pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba (main exit); E

KAO TAI Map p122

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Café ¥

ベンズカフェ %3202-2445; 1-29-21 Takadanobaba, Shinjukuku; plates ¥500-1000; h11.30am-11.30pm SunThu, 11.30am-12.30am Fri & Sat; bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba (main exit); E

If in the mood for yakitori, Akiyoshi is an approachable, ebullient place to partake. The open grill at centre stage ignites a festive, sociable space. The chefs work quickly to help move traffic along, but that doesn’t mean you can’t sit comfortably through several small courses and at least one conversation. There is no English menu, though ordering is simple with the picture menu.

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sheesha. The restaurant is located across the street from the south exit of Ekoda station, which is three stops away from Ikebukuro on the Seibu-Ikebukuro line.

The Glien Passage themepark is home to every conceivable type of restaurant, though Gompachi, a traditional izakaya, gets top marks for its sweeping views and delicious robatayaki (grilled skewers). There is an English menu available, though with all the wafting aromas of delicious roasting meats, chickens, fish and seafood filling the air, it is not necessary to look at a menu to figure out what you want to eat.

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© Lonely Planet Publications LES DEUX BLEUE Map pp48–9

Café ¥

レドゥブルー %3536-8326; 1st fl, LaLaPort Toyusu, 2-4-9 Toyosu, Minato-ku; plates ¥1000-1500; h11am11pm; bYurikamome Line to Toyosu (main exit); E Spend a bit of time in Tokyo, and you’ll quickly realise that the Japanese are avid dog lovers. Considering that a day out at Odaiba should be about the whole family, this dogfriendly café serves up tasty treats for both humans and their canine companions. Fill up on meaty burgers or tofu treats, though be sure to save some for Spot – after your meal, you can both burn off the calories by running around the fenced-in dog enclosure.

T Y HARBOR BREWERY Map pp48–9

Brew Pub ¥

ティーワイ ハーバーブルワリー %5479-4555; Bond Street, 2-1-3 Higashi-Shinagawa, Minato-ku; plates ¥1000-1500; h11.30am2.30pm & 5.30-10pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Shinagawa (east exit); E Sometimes a good beer can be hard to find, especially in a country that favours mass-produced lagers instead of fostering

a culture of microbrews. Fortunately, this American-style brew pub serves up any number of original homebrews that are sure to take the edge off while simultaneously pleasing the palate.

TEN-TEN TSUNE-TSUNE KAITENBO Map p131

Dim Sum ¥

点点常常回転坊 %3599-6705; 7th fl, Decks Tokyo Beach, 1-6-1 Daiba, Minato-ku; plates around ¥500; h11am11pm; bYurikamome Line to Odaiba Kaihin-kōen (main exit); E There is no shortage of great Chinese restaurants in ‘Little Hong Kong’, though we can promise you that you have never seen anything quite like this novelty dim sum spot. Drawing inspiration from kaiten-zushi (conveyor-belt sushi) restaurants, Ten-ten Tsune-tsune Kaitenbou (try saying that with your mouth full!) offers conveyor-belt dim sum feasts to hungry shoppers in need of a dumpling-fuelled boost. Although there is a limited English menu available, it is not hard to simply grab what looks good!

EATING ODAIBA & AROUND

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ 174

© Lonely Planet Publications

E NTE R TAI N M E NT

Kabuki-za (p176) – Reminiscent of Himeji Castle, this is the best kabuki venue in the world. Karaoke (p184) – Rent your own deluxe karaoke room and splurge on sweets. New York Grill and Bar (p181) – Have your Lost in Translation experience in this spectacular eyrie. Kokuritsu Nō-gakudō (p176) – Don’t say no to nō because it’s slow; it’s transporting theatre if given a chance. New National Theatre (p178) – This is a renowned venue for Western opera. Street Performers (p186) – Tokyoites may seem conformist until you meet the weekend buskers around Yoyogi-kōen. Blue Note Tokyo (p189) – Tokyo’s premiere jazz club. Session House (p178) – This small theatre hosts traditional, folk and modern dance. Aoyama Enkei Gekijō (p177) – A lovely round theatre nestled in the National Children’s Castle. Bunkamura Theatre Cocoon (p177) – Hosts many experimental modern dance troupes of international renown. What’s your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/tokyo

TRADITIONAL THEATRE Tokyo has one of the best traditional-theatre scenes in Japan. The Kabuki-za is splendid – watching a show here is a must-do. You’ve probably already been warned, but keep in mind that nō (stylised Japanese dance-drama) performances can feel like they’re crawling at a snail’s pace (see p36). Believe it or not, it’s even considered acceptable to doze (though not to snore). Takigi (torch-lit) nō performances are more rousing because of the fires.

CERULEAN TOWER NŌ THEATRE Map p106

セルリアンタワー能楽堂 %3477-6412; www.ceruleantower-hotel.com; B2

fl, 26-1 Sakuragaokachō, Shibuya-ku; admission varies; bShibuya (south exit) Performances in Japanese are held in this traditional theatre (you can also pop by just to admire it between 2.30pm and 5.30pm daily) in the Cerulean Tower Tōkyū Hotel (p212).

KABUKI-ZA (KABUKI THEATRE) Map p62

歌舞伎座 %3541-3131; www.shochiku.co.jp/play/kabukiza /theater/index.html; 4-12-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku; tickets ¥2500-17,000; bHibiya or Toei Asakusa Line to Higashi-Ginza (exit 3) Performances and times vary from month to month at Kabuki-za (p61) so check with the TIC (Tourist Information Center; p255) or the theatre for programme information. Be sure to rent a headset for blow-by-blow explanations in English, and pick up a bentō

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downstairs. A full kabuki performance (see p36) comprises three or four acts (usually from different plays) over an afternoon or an evening (typically 11.00am to 3.30pm or 4.30pm to 9pm), with long intervals between the acts. If four-plus hours sounds too long, you can purchase last-minute tickets for a single act, although seats are only on the highest balcony. Since some acts tend to be more popular than others, inquire ahead as to which to catch, and arrive well in advance.

KANZE NŌ-GAKUDŌ Map p106 観世能楽堂 Kanze Nō Theatre; %3469-5241; www.kanze.net, in Japanese; 1-16-4 Shōtō, Shibuya-ku; tickets from ¥3150; bShibuya (Hachikō exit) Kanze Nō-gakudō is one of Tokyo’s most highly regarded nō troupes. By far the most exciting are the rare outdoor night performances of Takigi Nō, where the masked actors are illuminated by huge burning torches. They are usually held on the grounds of a temple or shrine in Tokyo.

KOKURITSU NŌ-GAKUDŌ Map p110 国立能楽堂 National Nō Theatre; %3423-1331; www.ntj .jac.go.jp/english/index.html; 4-18-1 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; tickets ¥2800-5600; bJR Chūō Line to Sendagaya (west exit) This theatre stages the traditional chants and dances nō is famous for, as well as the interludes of kyōgen (short, lively comic farces) that serve as cathartic comic relief. The stark legends and historical dramas unfold on an elegant cypress stage.

While not really traditional theatre, the all-female Takarazuka Gekijō revue, going back to 1914, exposes Tokyo’s knack for complexity. These musicals are in Japanese, but English synopses are available. A mostly female audience swoons over actresses in drag. If you love camp, this is for you.

CONTEMPORARY THEATRE Tokyo has a lively contemporary theatre scene. Language can be a barrier, as most of the productions taking place in these alternative performance venues are in Japanese.

DIE PRATZE Map pp48–9 ディプラッツ %3235-7990; www.geocities.jp/kagurara2000, in Japanese; 2-12 Nishi-Gokenchō, Shinjuku-ku; admission varies; bTōzai Line to Kagurazaka (exit 1) Home to experimental theatre group OM-2, this small space features a variety of genres, from ballet to butō (contemporary dance style; p32) to experimental performance pieces. Die Pratze is northwest of the Imperial Palace, near Kagurazaka Station.

A good bit of Japanese would be helpful in getting the gist of these underground theatre pieces. Like most avant-garde theatre, plays here tend towards experimental explorations of contemporary issues.

DANCE Tokyo’s dance scene is a mixture of both international and indigenous styles. At venues around the city you will find all the usual Western dance forms – ballet, modern, jazz and experimental – in abundance. You may also be able to see butō (contemporary dance style) in its home environment, if your trip happens to coincide with a performance here.

AOYAMA ENKEI GEKIJŌ Map p110 青山円形劇場 Aoyama Round Theatre; %3797-5678; www .aoyama.org; 5-53-1 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; admission varies; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omote-sandō (exit B2) Found within Kodomo-no-Shiro (National Children’s Castle; p71) this midsized round theatre stages musicals, ballet and modern dance. Though the theatre is lovely, performances tend towards the conservative. Because of the venue’s location, many programmes are ideal for kids.

ENTERTAINMENT CONTEMPORARY THEATRE

ENTERTAINMENT TRADITIONAL THEATRE

Slicing into a pumpkin-sized, ice cream–topped loaf of toasted bread while swilling draft Kirin and belting out your fave Queen tunes in a room the size of a broom closet. Or quaffing thimble after thimble of sake with an unknown and increasingly rosy salaryman who then insists you join him at a bar down a dark lane in Roppongi. Or watching an unexpected shower of artificial snow falling on Kabuki actors who have just dispatched their samurai foes with feats of swordsmanship and acrobatics in The Tale of the Forty-Seven Rōnin, a beloved Japanese epic of loyalty, blood and revenge served very, very cold. That’s fun, Tokyo-style. The city will rock you ’til you drop in its live houses, drink you under the table in its izakaya (Japanese pubs) and mesmerise you with its traditional arts. Entertainmentwise, Tokyo is a microcosm of the best of Japan and the world, from the hippest hip-hop clubs to the old-timey rakugo storytelling venues. What Dr Johnson said of London also applies to this city on speed – if you’re bored in Tokyo, you might as well be dead.

宝塚歌劇 %5251-2001; http://kageki.hankyu.co.jp/english /index.html; 1-1-3 Yūrakuchō, Chiyoda-ku; tickets from ¥3500; bChiyoda, Hibiya or Toei Mita Line to Hibiya (exits A5 & A13)

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E NTE R TAI N M E NT

TAKARAZUKA GEKIJŌ Map p62

BUNKAMURA THEATRE COCOON Map p106

SUZUNARI THEATRE off Map pp48–9 ザ・スズナリ %3469-0511; www.honda-geki.com/suzunari .html, in Japanese; 1-45-15 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku; admission varies; bOdakyū or Keiō Inokashira Line to Shimokitazawa (south exit)

文化村シアターコクーン %3477-9999; www.bunkamura.co.jp/english; 2-24-1 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; admission varies; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit) This dance space in one of Tokyo’s liveliest arts complexes (p107) shows occasional

WHERE TO FIND WHAT’S ON Because of Tokyo’s sizeable expat community, there is loads of English-language information available about what’s going on in town. Below are several options, many of which you can pick up around town in hard copy, usually at music stores or in international supermarkets. Japan Times (www.japantimes.co.jp/entertainment.html) Comprehensive movie listings service, also available in the hard-copy newspaper. Metropolis (www.metropolis.co.jp) An excellent free resource that lists and reviews events, including contemporary film. Available in record stores and expat-frequented cafés and restaurants. Tokyo Q (www.tokyoq.com) Run by long-time expats who adore Tokyo, Tokyo Q is an excellent place to catch glimpses of the city from the inside. Reviews and listings cover clubs and bars – colourful, thoughtfully crafted and discriminating. Many listings include fairly detailed maps.

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SESSION HOUSE Map p56 セッションハウス %3266-0461; www.session-house.net, in Japanese; 158 Yaraichō, Shinjuku-ku; admission varies; bTōzai Line to Kagurazaka (exit 1)

SPACE ZERO Map p116 スペースゼロ %3375-8741; www.spacezero.co.jp, in Japanese; B1 fl, 2-12-10 Yoyogi, Shinjuku-ku; admission varies; bToei Ōedo or Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku (exit 6) This is a 550-seat, fine-art performance venue that happens to be located centrally in Shinjuku. Space Zero is host to contemporary dance performances and experimental theatre productions. You’ll find it in the basement of the Zenrōsai Kaikan building.

OPERA World-class opera can regularly be seen in Tokyo at venues such as the New National Theater, next to Tokyo Opera City (p114) in Shinjuku. The Japan Opera Foundation, managing the renowned Fujiwara Opera troupe, stages French and Italian operas.

NEW NATIONAL THEATRE Map p116 新国立劇場 Shin Kokuritsu Gekijō; %5351-3011; www.nntt .jac.go.jp/english/index.html; 1-1-1 Honmachi, Shibuya-ku; admission varies; bToei Shinjuku Line to Hatsudai (Theatre exit) This is a main venue for opera in Tokyo, with Fujiwara Opera, Nihon Opera Kyokai and Nikkai Opera performing here. Part of the New National Theatre’s arts complex, the Playhouse and the Pit are performance venues for modern dance, with the latter hosting just about every international dance luminary who passes through. A web resource is www.operajaponica.org.

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cians are trained in Japan and much of the nation’s talent makes its home in Tokyo. A thumb through one of the English dailies or a quick navigation through their websites will tell you what’s on.

TOKYO PHILHARMONIC ORCHESTRA www.tpo.or.jp/english/index.html Founded in Nagoya in 1911, the Tokyo Philharmonic is Japan’s oldest and largest orchestra with 166 members. Featuring distinguished foreign soloists and conductors and a perennial presence on the NHK TV New Year’s special, the Philharmonic is based at Tokyo Opera City in Shinjuku (p114) but also performs at Suntory Hall in the Ark Hills complex in Akasaka (Map p92) and at Bunkamura Orchard Hall (p106) in Shibuya.

TOKYO SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA www.tokyosymphony.com/e-tokyo One of Tokyo’s best, established in 1946, this orchestra premieres works by contemporary Japanese composers, such as Ikumu Dan and Yoshiro Irino. It also performs traditional works by Western masters, such as Berlioz, Mahler and Schoenberg. Check its website for performance times and venues.

BARS Alcohol is very much a social lubricant in Japan, and a lot of heavy drinking goes on in Tokyo, something you will realise very quickly if you happen to hop on any train after 10pm; violence, though, is quite rare. Roppongi, long the gaijin (foreigners; literally ‘outside people’) bar capital of Tokyo, has the lion’s share of bars per square metre, though Shinjuku is no slouch. Most bars in the city officially claim to be open from 5pm or 6pm until midnight, though many stay open until late becomes early again.

SHINJUKU

The streets and lanes radiating from the world’s busiest train station hide enough watering holes to souse an army. The largest red-light district in East Asia, Kabukichō, is northwest of the station and abuts the storied old drinking alleys of Golden Gai. Next door

DRINKS WITH A VIEW To decompress from pounding the pavement all day, rise to a different atmosphere. Savour spectacular views while sipping a vodka martini at these bars with views. Aurora Lounge & Sky Bar Polestar (right) Both have fine views from the Keiō Plaza Hotel in Shinjuku New York Grill and Bar (p181) Get the Lost in Translation experience with floor-to-ceiling vistas Top of Akasaka (p184) Feels like floating in a spaceship above Tokyo

is Shinjuku Ni-chōme, Japan’s gay mecca, home to about 200 gay and lesbian bars.

ADVOCATES CAFÉ Map p116

Gay & Lesbian

アドヴォケッツカフェ %3358-8638; B1 fl, 2-18-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h8pm-4am; bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-sanchōme (exits C7 & C8) This corner bar is so small that as the crowd magically expands during the course of an evening, it becomes more like a block party and takes to the streets. Advocates welcomes people of all genders, identities and nationalities. It’s great place to start off the night.

ALBATROSS Map p116

Arty/Stylish

アルバトロス %3342-5758; www.alba-s.com; 1-2-11 NishiShinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h5pm-2am; bShinjuku (west exit) Tucked away in aromatic Omoideyokocho (Memory Lane), Albatross and the surrounding yakitori (charcoal-broiled chicken and other meats or vegetables, cooked on skewers) joints would have been knocked down long ago if owners had let developers have their way. It’s a tiny postwar space for cheek-to-jowl chats and boasts the incredible rarity of a third-floor terrace right in the middle of the neon jungle.

ARTY FARTY Map p116

Gay & Lesbian

アーティファーティ %5362-9720; www.arty-farty.net; 2nd fl, 2-11-7 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h5pm-5am Mon-Sat, 4pm5am Sun; bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-sanchōme (exits C7 & C8) This bar for boys and gals has been the gateway to Tokyo’s gay neighbourhood, Ni-chōme, for many a moon. A cavernous

place with a dancefloor and intimate booths, Arty Farty is open to all in the community.

AURORA LOUNGE Map p116

Stylish

オーロララウンジ %3344-0111; 45th fl, 2-2-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h11.30am-11.30pm; bToei Ōedo Line to Tochōmae, exit B1) Perched 150m up in the Keiō Plaza Hotel (p213), this bar has great views and drinks. On the same floor, the crisp, elegant Sky Bar Polestar (スカイバーポールスター%33440111; h5-11.30pm Mon-Sat, 4-11.30pm Sun & public holidays) is built for gazing out over the city, with each seat facing the windows. Drinks start at ¥1500.

BAR PLASTIC MODEL Map p116 Arty/Stylish バープラスチックモデル %5273-8441; 1-1-10 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; h8pm-5am Mon-Sat, 6pm-midnight Sun; bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjukusanchōme (exit B5)

ENTERTAINMENT BARS

ENTERTAINMENT OPERA

Most dance aficionados consider Session House one of the best traditional, folk and modern dance spaces in the city. The small theatre seats only 100 people, which means that all performances have an intimate feel to them.

CLASSICAL MUSIC Many of the world’s top-flight classical musi-

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experimental works by international dance troupes. It has also been known to stage musical dramas, though these take place less frequently than dance programmes.

It’s true that in the last few years construction has started around Golden Gai, but some of those hammers are wielded by a new generation of iconoclastic bar masters rather than a major developer. Bar Plastic Model is one of the new joints, with an ‘80s soundtrack and decorated with retro knickknacks.

BON’S Map p116

Shots

ボンズ  %3209-6334; 1-1-10 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; admission ¥500; h7pm-5am; bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-sanchōme (exit B5) There’s a sign reading ‘American Bar’ out front, but Bon’s is about as American as anko (azuki bean paste). Look for this cosy dive on the Golden Gai’s (p119) southeast corner, next to the police box. It’s one of the few bars in the neighbourhood that will accommodate the odd nonregular patron.

CLUBHOUSE Map p116

Sports

クラブハウス %3359-7785; www.clubhouse-tokyo.jp; 3rd fl, 3-7-3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; hfrom 5pm MonFri, from 3pm Sat & Sun; bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-sanchōme (exit C3) This clubhouse looks like the kind of woodtrimmed beer bar you’d find at any ski lodge, and it’s a magnet for Tokyo’s diehard

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NEW YORK GRILL AND BAR Map p116 Bar ニューヨークグリル %5322-1234; 52nd fl, 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; h5pm-midnight Sun-Wed, 5pm-1am Thu-Sat; bToei Ōedo Line to Tochōmae, (exit A4)

Best Gay & Lesbian Bars

SHIBUYA

Advocates Café (p179) This Ni-chōme establishment has zebra-print walls and welcomes men and women. Ageha (p184) Massive club in Shin-Kiba holds gay parties every other month. Chestnut & Squirrel (opposite) A cosy, chatty lesbian bar in Shibuya with a seductive low-key vibe. GB (below) Busy, lighthearted pickup joint featuring Madonna videos on the tube. Kinswomyn (below) This Shibuya lesbian bar is perfect for chatting.

DUBLINERS Map p116

Pub

ダブリナーズ %3352-6606; www.dubliners.jp; 2nd fl, Lion Beer Hall Bldg, 3-28-9 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; hnoon1am Mon-Sat, noon-11pm Sun; bJR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku (east exit) The strains of an old Irish tune may meet you at the door. Live music, good beer and a warm break from Tokyo’s smooth, cool rhythm have made this one of the city’s most frequented international watering holes. Pub grub includes a few Irish standards in portions that are larger than normal for Tokyo. There’s a second branch in Ikebukuro (Map p122).

GARAM Map p116

Specialty

ガラム %3205-8668; www17.big.or.jp/~kamal; 7th fl, 1-16-6 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; admission from ¥1000;h8pm-5am; bJR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku (east exit) Garam is a cool little reggae club with a friendly owner and no Rasta poseurs. The house DJ spins a mix of dub, hip-hop and

roots reggae, but guest DJs also make appearances. The cover includes one drink.

GB

Bar

%3352-8972; 2-12-13 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku h8pm-3am A welcoming, dimly lit bar with 1980s videos on the tube and a cruise vibe. GB has friendly staff and decently generous drinks and makes for a great spot to begin the night.

KINSWOMYN Map p116

Gay & Lesbian

キンズウィミン %3354-8720; 3rd fl, 2-15-10 Shinjuku, Shinjukuku; h8pm-4am Wed-Mon; bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-sanchōme (exit C8) This established girls-only spot is welcoming and comfortable, and is run by a lesbian activist. English is spoken here, making it a perfect stop for visitors, but it’s more a spot for drinking and chatting than for dancing.

LA JETÉE Map p116

Shibuya mainly caters to teens and 20somethings, but more adult-oriented pubs and lounges abound. For Golden Gai–style old-timey watering holes, check out Nonbei Yokocho alley northeast of the station by the JR Yamanote Line tracks; most tiny bars there only seat a handful. Harajuku and Omotesandō have more sophisticated options.

BELLO VISTO Map p106

Bar

ベロビスト %3476-3000; 40th fl, 26-1 Sakuragaokachō, Shibuya-ku; h4pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 3pmmidnight Sat, Sun & public holidays; bShibuya, south exit) This 40th-floor eyrie on the Cerulean Tower keeps the interior lights dim so that you can see the lights on the far horizon. The 95-seat capacity ensures the atmosphere is always intimate. Cocktails and wine start at ¥1155.

CHESTNUT & SQUIRREL Map p106 Bar %090-9834-4842; www.chestnutandsquirrel .com; 3rd fl, 3-7-5 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; h8pm-

12am Wed) This café has international lesbian nights on Wednesdays and guest DJs. It’s in the Oishi Building behind the Shibuya police station.

Arty/Stylish

ラジェッテイ %3208-9645; 1-1-8 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; h7pm-late Mon-Sat bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjuku-sanchōme (exit B5) Kawai-san, the proprietor of this Golden Gai bar, knows more about film (especially that

HUB PUB Map p106

INSOMNIA LOUNGE Map p106

Arty/Stylish

インソムニア %3476-2735; B1 fl, 26-5 Udagawachō, Shibuyaku; h6pm-5am; bJR Shibuya (Hachikō exit) Insomnia Lounge is that rare Shibuya find: a bar for grown-ups. Good food, low music and a cosy, mirrored red interior make it the kind of place to come when you’re in the mood for conversation. The kitchen’s open late, and the oddly eyeball-esque mirrored wall behind the bar will induce insomnia if you’re not already feeling it.

PINK COW Map p106

ENTERTAINMENT BARS

ENTERTAINMENT BARS

You may not be lodging at the Park Hyatt, but that doesn’t mean you can’t ascend to the 52nd floor to swoon over stunning views of Mt Fuji and the city. There’s a cover charge of ¥2000 after 8pm.

A generally English ambience, pub food and a decent selection of beers attract a mixed crowd of 20-somethings, especially on weekends. The Hub has branches all over the city, though this is probably the most comfortable of the lot.

lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com

Though issues like gay marriage are not on the public radar screen in conservative Japan, media is rife with tarento (media celebrities) who are gay or who pretend, like pseudo leatherman Hard Gay. Social acceptance has been slow, but in 2007 the central and metropolitan governments joined the Tokyo Pride Parade for the first time. Entertainmentwise, the Tokyo scene is concentrated in Shinjuku Ni-chōme, a few blocks east of Shinjuku Station that house hundreds of gay and lesbian establishments. An English-language social networking site for gays in Japan is Homodachi (www .homodachi.jp), and there is the more comprehensive, info-stuffed Gay Japan (www.gay-jp.com, in Japanese) as well as www.japanvisitor.com, in English. A great place to get basic info and tips on Tokyo’s gay and lesbian scene is Utopia (www.utopia-asia.com), which has a page on Japan. For info on Ni-chōme, see the Japanese site www.shinjuku-2.com. Ni-chōme mainly caters to gay men, but more and more lesbian bars are opening up. There are usually lesbian theme-nights every month in Tokyo that make up the local party scene. Three big organisers are Goldfinger Party (www.goldfingerparty.com, in Japanese), Diamond Cutter (www.diamondcutter.jp, in Japanese) and Grand Panache (grand-panache.fem.jp, in Japanese).

rugby fans. Its comfortable, rugged interior is a friendly place to settle in for one of the fine imported or domestic beers and whatever game’s on the tube.

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of Chris Marker) than most of us ever will. No English is spoken here, though you’re welcome to practise your rusty Français. Unlike many Golden Gai establishments, this one is amenable to foreign visitors.

GAY & LESBIAN TOKYO

Arty/Stylish

ピンクカウ %3406-5597; www.thepinkcow.com; B1 fl, 1-318 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; h5pm-late, Tue-Sun; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omotesandō (exit B2) With its animal-print décor, rotating display of local artwork and terrific all-you-can-eat buffet (¥2625) every Friday and Saturday, the Pink Cow is a funky, friendly place to hang out. Also host to stitch-and-bitch evenings, writers’ salons and indie film screenings, it’s a good bet if you seek some artistic stimulation.

HARAJUKU & AOYAMA DEN AQUAROOM Map p110

Specialty

デンアクアルーム %5778-2090; B1 fl, 5-13-3 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; admission ¥500-1000; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat, 6-11pm Sun; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omote-sandō (exit B1) Darting fish within the walls of immaculate blue aquariums make a visual counterpoint to the bop of jazz basslines. But even prettier than the dark décor is the chic clientele hanging out here for the evening. Chill with a fruity cocktail in this velvety lounge and enjoy the view.

Pub

ハブパブ %3770-4135; www.pub-hub.com; B1 fl, 25-9 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku; h5pm-1am Sun-Thu, 5pm-2am Fri & Sat; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit)

LAS CHICAS Map p110

Café-Bar

ラスチカス %3407-6865; 5-47-6 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-11pm; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omote-sandō (exit B2)

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TOKYO APARTMENT CAFÉ Map p110

Café-Bar

東京アパートメントカフェ %3401-4101; 1-11-11 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; h11am-3am; bChiyoda Line to Meiji-jingūmae (exit 1)

ROPPONGI

Roppongi’s downhill slide into a jungle of pushy foreign touts luring drinkers to rip-off joints has slowed with the opening of posh megacomplexes Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown. It’s still the best place to drink in Tokyo, though it may not feel especially Japanese. There’s a great mix of cheap shotbars and upscale spots here.

A971 Map pp96–7

Arty/Stylish %5413-3210; www.a971.com, in Japanese; 9-7-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku; h7am-5am Mon-Fri, 10am5am Sat, 10am-12am Sun; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo

Line to Roppongi (exit for Tokyo Midtown) Tucked into an outside corner of the recently built Tokyo Midtown complex, this hip restaurant-bar pulsates with friendly drinkers on Friday and Saturday nights. The crowd, a good mix of gaijin and locals, spills out onto the surrounding sidewalk and the vibe is very laidback and conversational.

AGAVE Map pp96–7

Specialty

アガヴェ %3497-0229; B1 fl, 7-15-10 Roppongi, Minatoku; h6.30pm-2am Mon-Thu, 6.30pm-4am Fri & Sat; www.agave.jp; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 2) Rawhide chairs, cruzas de rosas (crosses decorated with roses) and tequila shots for the willing make Agave a good place for a long night in search of the sacred

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PROPAGANDA Map pp96–7

BUL-LET’S Map pp96–7

A shot bar calling itself Propaganda couldn’t possibly take itself too seriously, and it doesn’t. Happy hour (6pm to 9pm) specials cost around ¥500, and it’s sort of a pick-up scene if this is on your agenda.

Specialty

ブレッツ %3401-4844; www.bul-lets.com; B1 fl, 1-7-11 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku; admission ¥2000; hfrom around 6pm; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 2) This mellow basement space plays worldwide trance and ambient sounds for barefoot patrons. Mattresses in the middle of the floor provide refuge from the madding crowd, but don’t get the wrong idea – it’s not always tranquillity and deadbeats.

HEARTLAND Map pp96–7

Arty/Stylish

ハートランド %5772-7600; www.heartland.jp, in Japanese; 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku; h11am-5am; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 3) Named for the house beer from Kirin, Heartland is a chic, easygoing watering hole at the base of Roppongi Hills’ West Tower that caters to professional expats and Japanese. It doesn’t have the zoolike atmosphere of bars on Roppongi’s main drag and drinks are reasonably priced.

MISTRAL BLUE Map pp96–7

Shots

ミストラルブルー %3423-0082; www.trainbar.com; 5-5-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku; h6pm-3am Mon-Sat; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 3) This lovable hole in the wall, also known as Train Bar for its resemblance to the interior of a carriage, is about as unpretentious as it gets in Roppongi. The many foreign customers who have drained cheap beers here have left their mark – every surface, even the light bulbs, is covered with signatures.

MOTOWN HOUSE 1 & 2 Map pp96–7 Shots モータウンハウス %5474-4605; www.motownhouse.com; 2nd fl, 3-11-5 Roppongi, Minato-ku; h6pm-5am; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 3) The crass may call it ‘ho town’, but on the pick-up front it’s no worse (or better?) than its neighbours, and since it expanded to two venues, it can actually be quite relaxed. Drinks start at ¥800. Funk, soul, R&B and hip-hop dominate here, of course.

Shots

プロパガンダ %3423-0988; 2nd fl, 3-14-9 Roppongi, Minato-ku; h6pm-dawn Mon-Sat; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 3)

TOKYO SPORTS CAFÉ Map pp96–7

Sports

東京スポーツカフェ %3404-3675; www.tokyo-sportscafe.com; 7-15-31 Roppongi, Minato-ku; h6pm-5am Mon-Sat; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 4) With Kilkenny beer on tap, a pool table and a talking computerised alcohol tester, this friendly sports bar is the obvious choice for cheering on your favourite team. Sportswise, it’s more Rotherham United than Chicago Bulls, and many events here are broadcast live. By the early morning it can get quite rowdy.

IKEBUKURO

Off the beaten path for imbibing travellers, Ikebukuro’s wealth of restaurants, karaoke rooms and izakaya (Japanese-style pubs) make it worth the trip.

BOBBY’S BAR Map p122

Pub

ボビーズバー %3980-8875; 3rd fl, 1-18-10 Ikebukuro, Toshimaku; h6pm-3am Mon-Thu, 6pm-5am Fri & Sat; bJR Yamanote Line to Ikebukuro (west exit) One of Tokyo’s longest-standing and bestknown gaijin bars, perfect for those in need of a warm barstool, a dartboard and reasonably priced drinks (from ¥500). The crowd here is always international – a good mix of long-time expats and travellers.

SASASHŪ Map p122

Izakaya

笹周 %3971-9363; 2-2-6 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; meals from ¥6000; h5-10pm Mon-Sat; bMarunouchi Line to Ikebukuro (exit C5) The proprietor is famous for having been a kamikaze pilot whose number was just about up when the war ended. To celebrate his good fortune, he dedicated himself to knowing all there is to know about sake, making Sasashū a favourite of those seeking a dignified izakaya experience (p172).

OTHER NEIGHBOURHOODS

Great bars can be found throughout Tokyo, whether it be a friendly izakaya by a suburban station or a British pub in Ebisu.

AUX AMIS DES VINS Map p62

Specialty

オザミデヴァン %3567-4120; 2-5-6 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h5.30pm2am Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Sat; bYūrakuchō Line to Ginza-itchōme (exits 5 & 8) Even when it rains, the plastic tarp comes down and good wine is drunk alleyside. The enclosed upstairs seating area is warm and informal, and you can order snacks to go with your wine or full prix-fixe dinners. A solid selection of wine comes by the glass (¥800) or by the bottle.

FOOTNIK Map p102

Sports

フットツニック %5795-0144; www.footnik.net; 1-11-2 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; h11.30am-1am Mon-Fri, 3pm-1am Sat & Sun; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (east exit)

ENTERTAINMENT BARS

ENTERTAINMENT BARS

This subterranean room with a view doubles as a cool daytime coffee house and eatery. At night, the atmosphere goes a shade hipper and cocktails are served until closing. This is a good place to hole up for the evening if you’re out for the night on Omote-sandō.

worm. Luckily, this gem in the jungle that is Roppongi is more about savouring the subtleties of its 400-plus varieties of tequila rather than tossing back shots of Cuervo.

lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com

Slated to reopen in spring 2008, Las Chicas is also a restaurant and one of Harajuku’s core art spaces. But that doesn’t mean you can’t come here just to hang out in the bar area, which is the kind of place where you want to sit and sip for hours.

Cold pints cost only ¥700, and the bigscreen TVs broadcast – what else? – footy (er, soccer) for the footniks. Find this friendly pub downstairs from Good Day Books (p143).

HOBGOBLIN Map p92

Pub

ホブゴブリン %6229-2636; www.hobgoblin.jp; 2-13-19 Akasaka, Minato-ku; h11am-3pm & 5pm-1am Mon-Fri, 5pm-1am Sat; bChiyoda Line to Akasaka (exit 2), Ginza & Namboku Lines to Tameike-sannō (exit 9) Far better than your average Britpub replica, Akasaka’s Hobgoblin is run by an Oxfordshire brewery. It serves good pub fare, like toad in the hole, with excellent microbrews. You’ll find this Hobgoblin in the basement of the building next to the clearly marked Marugen 23 building.

LION BEER HALL Map p62

Pub

銀座ライオン %3571-2590; www.ginzalion.jp, in Japanese; 7-9-20 Ginza, Chūō-ku; h11.30am-11pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-10pm Sun; bGinza, Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exits A2 & A3) This is an almost-Bavarian beer hall smack in the middle of the otherwise ritzy, retailcrazed Ginza. Good pub food and a lovely 1930s mural on the wall only add to the atmosphere on weekend nights, which have been known to erupt into song.

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Map p56

Cocktail Lounge

トップオブアカサカ %3234-1121; 40th fl, 1-2 Kioi-chō, Chiyoda-ku; h5pm-1am;bGinza & Marunouchi Lines to Akasaka-mitsuke (exit 7) If you’re planning an intergalactic rendezvous, this cocktail lounge is the place. White tables on a purple carpet floating in the middle of the city create a very spacey atmosphere.

WHAT THE DICKENS Map p102

Pub

What the Dickens occupies the 4th floor of the Roob building, whose outstanding façade looks as if it’s finished with a layer of mud, and adorned with the mirrored replica of a hummingbird. The beer and pub grub are up to snuff, and good live music and the occasional poetry reading keep things rolling.

KARAOKE You can’t avoid it and you can’t beg off when the mic gets passed to you! Karaoke is a national pastime in Japan, an ice-breaker and welcome tonic for the strictures of the daily grind. The easiest way to understand the phenomenon is to simply take a swig of Asahi, fill your lungs with air and belt out your best version of ‘Bohemian Rhapsody’ no matter how offkey. Luckily, most group singing is not openmic bar-room style – it takes place in private rooms that are rented by the hour for around ¥600 per person. Parlours are ubiquitous but the big ones are in entertainment areas like Shinjuku and Shibuya. Popular chains include Big Echo and Karaoke-kan.

PASELA Map pp96–7 パセラ %0120-759-880; www.pasela.co.jp, in Japanese; 5-16-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku; h5pm-8am Mon-Fri, 2pm-10am Sat & Sun; ¥525 per hr per person SunThu, ¥630 per hr per person Sat & Sun; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 3) Pasela boasts decor that is a cut above the other yodelling parlours. With six floors of karaoke rooms including swanky VIP suites, this branch of the chain is right in the heart

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CLUBS You’ll find tons of techno and disco and house in the city, with most of the music starting when doors open, usually around 8pm – you won’t really want to arrive until 10pm or so, when the volume increases and the floor fills. Many clubs claim they close at midnight (they’re legally required to tell you so), but don’t buy it. At most places, you can dance until dawn. Your biggest concern is when the trains stop and start running.

AGEHA Map pp48–9 アゲハ %5534-1515; www.ageha.com; 2-2-10 Shin-Kiba, Kōtō-ku; h11pm-5am Thu-Sat; admission ¥4000; bYūrakuchō Line to Shin-Kiba (main exit) This gigantic waterside club rivals any you’d find in LA or Ibiza. Mostly international DJs appear here, with Japanese DJs filling out the mix. Counterbalancing the thumping dance floors are lounge spaces and a little pool area. Free buses run to the club every half hour from the east side of Shibuya Station on Roppongi-dōri; bring photo ID.

CLUB 3.2.8 Map pp96–7 クラブサンニイハチ %3401-4968; www.3-2-8.jp, in Japanese; B1 fl, 3-24-20 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku; admission ¥20002500; h8pm-5am; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 1) DJs at San-ni-pa (aka San-ni-hachi) spin a quality mix, from funk to reggae to R&B. With its refreshing un-Roppongi feel and a cool crowd of Japanese and gaijin, 328 is a fabulous place to boogie ‘til the break of dawn. Two drinks are included in the cover charge.

CLUB ASIA Map p106 クラブエイジア %5458-2551; www.clubasia.co.jp, in Japanese; 1-8 Maruyamachō, Shibuya-ku; admission around ¥2500; h11pm-5am; bShibuya (Hachikō exit) This massive club is worth a visit if you’re on the younger end of 20-something.

SALSA CARIBE Map pp96–7

CLUBS Ageha (opposite) Club 328 (opposite) Ruby Room below Space Lab Yellow right Events here are usually jam-packed every night. Occasionally the club hosts some of Tokyo’s bigger DJ events and hip-hop acts.

MUSE Map pp96–7 ミューズ %5467-1188; B1 fl, 4-1-1 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku; Sat admission ¥2000, incl 2 drinks (women get in free);h7pm-12am Mon-Fri, 9pm-12am Sat; www .muse-web.com/etop.htm; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 3) Muse, a catacomblike underground space with intimate booths, dance floors and billiards, has an excellent mix of locals and foreigners. There’s something for everyone here, whether you want to dance up a storm or just feel like playing darts or table tennis.

NEW LEX EDO Map pp96–7 ニューレックスエドゥー %3401-1661; B1 fl, 3-13-14 Roppongi, Minato-ku; admission from ¥2000; h8pm-5am; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 3)

サルサカリベ %3746-0244; www.salsacaribe.jp; 2nd fl, 53-4 Roppongi, Minato-ku; admission Fri & Sat ¥1500; h7pm-5am Sun-Thu, 7pm-7am Fri & Sat; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 3) The narrow bar Salsa Caribe has long been a gathering place for an internationally diverse crowd that usually arrives at midnight and leaves in the early hours of the morning – only after every man has danced with almost every woman in the room.

SALSA SUDADA Map pp96–7 サルサスダーダ %5474-8806; www.salsasudada.ne; 3rd fl, 7-13-8 Roppongi, Minato-ku; admission Fri & Sat ¥1500; h6pm-6am; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 4) Tokyo’s sizable population of Peruvian and Colombian workers, many of whom grind away at factories in Kawasaki and Yokohama, come here to salsa and merengue, as do many salsa-mad locals. If you don’t know how to dance, they’ll teach you (lessons held nightly).

SPACE LAB YELLOW Map pp96–7 スペースラボイエロー %3479-0690; www.club-yellow.com; B1 & B2 fls, 1-10-11 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku; admission ¥20003500; h8.30pm-late; bHibiya & Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 2)

The Lex was one of Roppongi’s first discos and is still the place where every visiting celebrity ends up. The cover here starts at around ¥2000 unless you’ve had your visage on the front of Vogue or Rolling Stone. But even noncelebrities get a free drink with admission.

Located by Nishi-Azabu crossing, Space Lab Yellow spins everything from house to acid jazz, Brazilian samba to techno. Foreign DJs are sometimes spotlighted: regardless of who it is, the sound is always excellent. Look for the entrance to this inky basement space next to the coin parking-lot.

RUBY ROOM Map p106

VANILLA Map pp96–7

ルビールーム %3780-3022; www.moderndining.com/Ruby Room/index.shtml; 2nd fl, 2-25-17 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; admission ¥1500; h9pm-late; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit) This cool, sparkly gem of a cocktail lounge is on a hill behind the Shibuya 109 building. With both DJ’d and live music, the Ruby Room is an appealing spot for older kids hanging in Shibuya. The cover includes one drink, but if you dine downstairs at Sonoma (p168), admission is free.

ENTERTAINMENT CLUBS

ENTERTAINMENT KARAOKE

ザ ディッキンズ %3780-2099; www.whatthedickens.jp; 4th fl, 1-13-3 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku; h5pm-1am TueSat, 5pm-midnight Sun; bHibiya Line to Ebisu (exit 2) or JR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (west exit)

of Roppongi. There’s an extensive selection of Western songs, wine, champagne and sweets on the menu and a decent Mexican bar-restaurant in the basement. From 5pm to 7pm it’s karaoke happy hour – ¥400 yen including one drink.

lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com

GRAND PRINCE HOTEL AKASAKA

ヴァニラ %3401-6200; www.clubvanilla.com; 7-14-30 Roppongi, Minato-ku; admission from ¥1500; h7pmlate; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exits 2 & 4) Attracting a mostly Japanese clientele, Vanilla attracts fewer drunken gaijin kooks than nearby clubs. Three floors of dance space are filled with different beats and crowds of peeps. It’s at the end of a small alley off of Roppongi-dōri, close to Roppongi crossing.

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ウーム %5459-0039; www.womb.co.jp; 2-16 Maruyamachō, Shibuya-ku; admission ¥1500-4000; h8pm-late; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit) Womb is all about house, techno and drum ‘n’ bass. All four floors get jammed at weekends. Bring a flyer and they’ll knock ¥500 to ¥1000 off the cover – check around Shibuya music shops beforehand, or print one from Womb’s website. Picture ID required at the door.

hours (shows often end around 9pm), rock, house, blues, jazz and electronica are thriving in Tokyo. Big international acts often appear at large venues such as the National Stadium (p199) in Yoyogi or Budōkan (Map pp48–9). But Tokyo has many good small live houses. Shibuya is particularly ripe with them, and exceptional, idiosyncratic venues are also scattered throughout the city.

CAVERN CLUB Map pp96–7 カバーンクラブ %3405-5207; www.cavernclub.jp, in Japanese; 5-3-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku; admission ¥1500; hfrom 6pm; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 3) The heartfelt, adeptly executed covers performed at Cavern Club continue to shine after all these years. The name of the spot,

クラブクアトロ %3477-8750; www.club-quattro.com; 32-13 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku; admission ¥3000-4000; bShibuya (Hachikō exit) This venue feels like a concert hall, but it’s actually more along the lines of a slick club. It books local and international bands of generally high quality. Though there’s no explicit musical focus, emphasis is on rock and roll with leanings towards world music.

CROCODILE Map p110 クロコダイル %3499-5205; www.music.co.jp/~croco/index2 .html; B1 fl, 6-18-8 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; admission ¥2000-3000; h6pm-2am; bChiyoda Line to Meiji-jingūmae (exit 1) Crocodile has something happening almost every night. It could be jazz, it could be rock, it could even be country and western or Cuban. Get here early, as things are known to fill up fast, especially on Friday and Saturday nights.

EGGMAN Map p106 エッグマン %3496-1561; www.eggman.jp, in Japanese; 1-6-8 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku; admission ¥1000-3000; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit)

BUSKER HEAVEN by Tim Hornyak Going to my weekend news job at NHK TV, I would get off the Yamanote Line at JR Harajuku Station and proceed through three distinct Japanese subcultures until I reached what I called Busker Heaven. First there are the gosurori (Gothic Lolita), teens who sport black neo-Victorian fashions – lace, frills and Little Bo Peep frocks. They congregate on Jingū-bashi bridge between JR Harajuku Station and the entrance to Meiji Jingū Shrine. Next, just inside Yoyogi-kōen, are the twisting rockabillies with their pompadours, leather jackets and sound systems pumping out Chubby Checker. Finally there are the BMX kids doing freestyle tricks on their bikes, plus a few skateboarders. Each group keeps to its own turf, and each attracts foreign gawkers. But travellers who keep going towards NHK Hall (Map p106) will meet an amazing parade of rockers, rappers, folk singers, acrobats and unclassifiable misfits who are out to show off their skills. They can be found on the sidewalk lining Yoyogi-kōen and in the pedestrian lane between the park and Kōen-dōri leading to Shibuya Station (the lane also hosts ethnic and organic food fairs as well as flea markets). These performers are a throwback to the days of the takenoko-zoku (bamboo-shoot tribe), youth who thronged here in the 1970s and 1980s in colourful, exotic costumes to dance and sing. The weekend scene got so popular and crowded that authorities shut it down in the early 1990s, but these vestiges are still highly entertaining – you’ll find everything from manzai stand-up comics to inscrutable men in white bodystockings. Most are out to promote themselves and have fun, not make money. This cornucopia of independent talent is the flipside of Tokyo’s conformity, homogeneity and corporatism. It’s also the best free spectacle in town.

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LIVE-MUSIC VENUES

CLUB QUATTRO Map p106

Blue Note Tokyo (p189) Crocodile (opposite) Hot House (p189) Liquid Room (below) Milk (right) Follow the spiral staircase to the basement to hear blues, rock or light jazz musicians get low down. Most acts are local, and of the lighter, sweeter variety. Show up to see whether tickets aren’t completely sold out on a given night, and take a quick listen at the door to sample before committing. Most shows start around 7pm.

LA.MAMA Map p106 ラママ %3464-0801; www.lamama.net, in Japanese; B1 fl, 1-15-3 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; admission ¥2000; h6.30pm-12.30am;bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (Hachikō exit) Just about every Japanese band from BuckTick to Melt-Banana has passed through here. The room is fairly spacious, but even when the place gets crowded you’ll never be far from the stage. Shows usually begin around 7pm.

LIQUID ROOM Map p102 リキッドルーム %5464-0800; www.liquidroom.net; 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya-ku; admission varies; h7pm-late; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (east exit) Some of the world’s greatest performers have graced the stage of the Liquid Room, from the Flaming Lips to Linton Kwesi Johnson. This is an excellent place to see an old favourite or find a new one, but you’ll have to buy tickets as soon as they go on sale.

LOFT Map p116 ロフト %5272-0382; www.loft-prj.co.jp, in Japanese; B2 fl, 1-12-9 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; admission ¥1500-3000; h5pm-late; bShinjuku (east exit) This well-respected, quarter-century-old Tokyo live house, whose chequerboard stage has hosted the feedback and reverb

MILK Map p102 みるく %5458-2826; www.milk-tokyo.com, in Japanese; B1 fl, 1-13-3 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku; admission ¥1000-3000; h8pm-4am; dHibuya Line to Ebisu (exit 2) or JR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (west exit) In Ebisu, this is one of Tokyo’s best small live clubs, featuring international punk, hard rock and alternative, along with some Tokyo dub, hip-hop and electronica. This cool space comprises three underground levels housing a crowd of weirdos and punks. The building also houses What the Dickens (p184).

SHIBUYA-AX Map p106 渋谷アックス %5738-2020; www.shibuya-ax.com, in Japanese; 2-1-1 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku; admission varies; bJR Shibuya (Hachikō exit)

ENTERTAINMENT COMEDY

ENTERTAINMENT LIVE MUSIC

LIVE MUSIC Though the live-music scene keeps geriatric

of many a Tokyo punk, is often grungy and smokey – with just the right level of sweaty intimacy. The music is always loud and usually good.

as any good John, Paul, George or Ringo fan would know, is the same as that of the Liverpool club that first featured the fabulous four flopheads.

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WOMB Map p106

Shibuya-Ax has hosted big international names like Stereophonics, the Pogues and Cyndi Lauper as well as Japanese acts like Triceratops. It’s a large, slick venue with its own line of proprietary merchandise. Look for the logo evoking the nuclear hazard symbol.

SHIBUYA O-EAST Map p106 渋谷オ・イースト %5458-4681; www.shibuya-o.com; 2-14-8 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; admission varies; bJR Shibuya (Hachikō exit) Shibuya O-East is the big mama of several related venues forming a compound of clubs up Love Hotel Hill. With its sheer size, this house draws bigger-name international and domestic acts.

COMEDY Japanese comedy relies more on silly puns and slapstick than irony as in the West, but laughs both modern and traditional, home-grown and foreign, are on offer in Tokyo.

ASAKUSA ENGEI HALL Map p86 浅草演芸ホール %3841-6545; 1-43-12 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; adult/ student/child ¥2500/2000/1100; bGinza Line to Tawaramachi (exit 3)

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TOKYO COMEDY STORE www.tokyocomedy.com

CINEMAS Tokyo cinemas show blockbuster movies in small spaces, while charging you an average ¥1800. Some Hollywood flicks take a while to open here. Most independent films in English are not dampened by dubbing and some of the more avant-garde theatres show films you might not see anywhere else. At larger theatres, getting seated is a freefor-all once the doors open, so it’s a good idea to go early and get a decent seat. For mainstream flicks, the most stress-free theatres are Virgin Toho Cinemas Roppongi Hills (right) and Yebisu Garden Cinema (right), which each have their own seating systems.

CINE AMUSE EAST/WEST Map p106 シネアミューズ %3496-2888; www.cineamuse.co.jp, in Japanese; 4th fl, 2-23-12 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; bShibuya (Hachikō exit) This well-known arthouse standby screens Japanese and foreign classics, as well as new independent releases. Coffee, beer and snacks are available at the small café in the lobby. This is a great place to take a break from Shibuya’s hectic pace while taking in a matinée.

CINEMA RISE Map p106 シネマライズ %3464-0051; www.cinemarise.com, in Japanese; 13-17 Udagawachō, Shibuya; bShibuya (Hachikō exit) Cinema Rise screens independent international cinema but very few indie Japanese films. Just around the corner is an

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EUROSPACE Map p106 ユーロスペース %3461-0211; ww.eurospace.co.jp; 1-5 Maruyamachō, Shibuya-ku; bShibuya (Hachikō exit) The focus at this fine theatre remains unwaveringly on small European films. Eurospace also occasionally hosts documentary or feature-film festivals, which will be listed in the major English-language weeklies; and sometimes screens late shows.

VIRGIN TOHO CINEMAS ROPPONGI HILLS Map pp96–7

English. Tickets are numbered as they are sold and theatre-goers are called to screenings as their numbers come up, preventing competition for seats.

HOT HOUSE Map pp48–9

JAZZ Tokyo has long loved jazz, and affections don’t seem to be on the wane. Major international artists invariably stop in the city, often at the Blue Note, and Japan’s emerging improvisers most often get their start here at one of the smaller clubs. ビーフラット %5563-2563; B1 fl, 6-6-4 Akasaka, Minato-ku; admission from ¥2500; h6.30-11pm Mon-Sat; bChiyoda Line to Akasaka (exits 5A & 5B) Located in a part of Akasaka that empties and grows quiet at night, this hip jazz club often features local and European talent, as well as healthy doses of Latin jazz. As the owner recently passed away, so too may the club – check locally when you’re in town.

Virgin’s nine-screen multiplex has the biggest screen in Japan, as well as luxurious reclining seats and Internet booking up to two days in advance for reserved seats. This state-of-the-art theatre also holds all-night screenings on nights before holidays.

BLUE NOTE TOKYO Map pp96–7

早稲田松竹 %3200-8968; www.h4.dion.ne.jp/~wsdsck/, in Japanese; 1-5-16 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; tickets ¥1300; bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba (main exit) Waseda Shochiku softens the blow by screening two films for the price you’d normally pay to see one. A favourite with students and cash-strapped expats, the bills normally feature second-run double features, some of an artsy bent.

YEBISU GARDEN CINEMA Map p102 恵比寿ガーデンシネマ %5420-6161; www.kadokawa-gardencinema .jp/yebisu, in Japanese; Yebisu Garden Place, 4-20-2 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; adult/child ¥1800/1000, 1st day of month ¥1000; h10am-11pm; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (east exit, then Skywalk) This small, comfortable movie house is at the far end of Yebisu Garden Place and screens foreign independent films, many in

ホットハウス %3367-1233; 3-23-5 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; admission varies; h8.30pm-2am; bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba (main exit) This must be the smallest jazz dive in the world. Musicians play in twos and threes (there’s no room for more). Audiences are usually a few dozen; get here early if you’re set on sitting in for the evening.

B-FLAT Map p92

ヴァージンTOHOシネマズ六本木ヒルズ %5775-6090; www.tohotheater.jp/theater/ropp ongi/index.html; 6-10-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku; adult ¥1800-3000, child ¥1000, 1st day of month ¥1000, women on Wed ¥1000; h10am-midnight Sun-Wed, 10am-5am Thu-Sat; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (Roppongi Hills exit)

WASEDA SHOCHIKU Map p122

decorated with dark wood and deep velvet, making this a good spot for a slow night of cool sounds.

ブルーノート東京 %5485-0088; www.bluenote.co.jp; 6-3-16 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; admission ¥600015,000; h5.30pm-1am Mon-Sat, 5pm-12.30am Sun; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omote-sandō (exit B3) Serious cognoscenti roll up to Tokyo’s prime jazz spot in Aoyama to take in the likes of Maceo Parker, Herbie Hancock and Doctor John. Like its sister acts in New York and Milan, the digs here are classily

JAZZ SPOT INTRO Map p122 イントロ %3200-4396; www.intro.co.jp; B1 fl, 2-14-8 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; admission ¥1000; hfrom noon; bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba (main exit)

ENTERTAINMENT JAZZ

ENTERTAINMENT CINEMAS

You probably know the type – the class clown, the merry exhibitionist – who joins this kind of comedy troupe. Basically, this is a funny bunch of expatriated amateurs and professionals doing their shtick. Shows take place at various venues; check the website for schedules.

even more avant-garde space called Rise X (%3464-8555), a tiny offshoot of Cinema Rise that screens mostly Japanese digital films.

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Asakusa Engei Hall hosts traditional rakugo, with all performances conducted in Japanese. The linguistic confusion is mitigated by lively facial expressions and traditional props (performers use only a hand towel and a folding fan), which help translate comic takes on universal human experiences.

It’s a good sign when a little club allows a quarter of its floor space to be monopolised by a sexy grand piano. It also bodes well when the place is staffed by musicians who love to talk shop all night. At Jazz Spot Intro, all the omens are favourable.

JZ BRAT Map p106 ジェイゼットブラット %5728-0168; 2nd fl, 26-1 Sakuragaokachō, Shibuya-ku; admission varies; hfrom 6pm MonSat; bShibuya (south exit) This lovely, airy venue in the Cerulean Tower Tōkyū Hotel books consistently solid acts from Tokyo and abroad. The space seats just over 100, who are always treated to an intimate ambience. Though there’s no

KABUKICHO’S ‘WATER TRADE’ During the late-Tokugawa period, a colourful world was born in which kabuki actors, prostitutes, poets and high-living merchants cavorted in pleasure quarters such as Tokyo’s Yoshiwara district. This was the so-called ‘floating world’ (ukiyo), an ephemeral world of night pleasures (called mizu shōbai or ‘the water trade’) centred on geisha houses, brothels and drinking establishments. Although prostitution was made illegal during the Allied occupation of Japan following WWII, the water trade is alive and well in Japan. A new form of floating world exists, one in which gaily painted kimonos and decorative hair combs have been replaced by gaudy miniskirts and flashing neon lights, particularly in the modern red-light districts of Shinjuku’s Kabukichō and the areas around Ikebukuro Station. While it is easy to romanticise the exploits of those otherworldly figures who live on in ukiyo-e (wood-block prints), the modern floating world allows for little in the way of sentimentality – today it is primarily a sleazy underworld of illegal Southeast Asian sex workers and economically poor, young Japanese women controlled by thoroughly unromantic yakuza (Japanese mafia) bosses. Unfortunately, there are few legal protections for sex workers – and immigrant women in the sex trade are completely vulnerable to the whims of the law and the street.

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formal dress code, you’ll feel better dressing up rather than down.

SHINJUKU PIT INN Map p116 新宿ピットイン %3354-2024; www.pit-inn.com; B1 fl, 2-12-4 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; admission ¥3000-10,000; hfrom 7.30pm Mon-Fri, from 2pm Sat & Sun; bMarunouchi Line to Shinjuku-sanchōme (exit C5)

ENTERTAINMENT JAZZ

Shinjuku Pit Inn, which has been around for over 35 years, is not the kind of place you come to talk over the music. Aficionados come here to listen in silence to Japan’s best jazz performers. Weekend matinées are half the price of evening performances.

SWEET BASIL 139 Map pp96–7 スイートバジル139 STB 139; %5474-0139; http://stb139.co.jp; 6-7-11 Roppongi, Minato-ku; admission ¥3000-7000; h6-11pm Mon-Sat; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 3) Sweet Basil has a large, lovely space that draws big-name domestic and international jazz acts. Performances range the gamut of the genre; check the calendar on the website for the current line-up. This classy joint is a good place to have an Italian dinner before a show; call for reservations between 11am and 8pm Monday to Saturday.

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S P O R T S & AC T I V I T I E S

Sumō Wrestling (p197) – Watch the big guys take each other on at this traditional Japanese outing. Baseball (p198) – It may be as American as apple pie, but it’s also as Japanese as raw tuna. Sento (p193) – Nothing treats those travel-worn bones like a good soak in a communal tub. Ikebana (p196) – It takes a lifetime to learn, but only a few classes to get the basics of flower-arranging. Learn Japanese (p195) – Nihongo wo wakarimasu ka? If not, then it might be time to learn the lingo. Martial Arts (p192) – Tokyo may be one of the world’s safest cities, but it’s still good to know how to defend yourself. Cycle (p195) – One of the best ways to learn the lay of the land is to travel with two wheels. Conversation cafés (p198) – Make new friends while helping a few Japanese people brush up on their English. Golf (p196) – Sure enough, 18 holes might break the bank, but it’s a quintessential Japanese experience. Horse racing (p199) – See if you can win some extra yen. What’s your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/tokyo

Everyone needs to let off some steam once in a while, and though you may be working up a sweat navigating the streets, you may crave a more intense workout than the subway station stairs can offer. From martial arts training and pumping iron to a vigorous swim and a series of transcendental asanas, there is no shortage of sports on offer in the Japanese capital. Even if you’re not the athletic type, Tokyo brims with activities catering to both the casual dabbler and the devout practitioner. Try your hand at flower arranging, take a few Japanese classes, catch a few innings of baseball or, better yet, a few bouts of sumō. Also open to the public are Tokyo’s many public baths and hot springs. If you’ve had a long day of sight-seeing and are starting to feel a bit travel worn, a blissful soak in a steaming bath is indeed the perfect antidote.

HEALTH & FITNESS Most Tokyoites join private gyms or clubs

Students of judō who are looking to keep up their practice while in Tokyo are welcome to stop by Kōdōkan Judō Institute in the afternoons for open practice. Lessons are also available here on a long-term basis, and visitors are welcome to observe training during practice hours.

MARTIAL ARTS

KYŪMEIKAN off Map pp48–9

Small dōjō (places of practice) of Japanese martial arts disciplines exist in neighbourhoods all over Tokyo, but most instruction and practice is conducted in Japanese. The following organisations can point you to dōjō where you may be able to take lessons or attend a training session.

国際合気道連盟 %3203-9236; www.aikido-international.org; Aikikai Foundation, 17-18 Wakamatsuchō, Shinjuku-ku; h6am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 8.30-11.30am Sun; bToei Ōedo Line to Wakamatsu-Kawada (main exit) Practising at the Aikikai Foundation requires filling out an application form and paying a registration fee in addition to a monthly course fee. Shorter-term visitors should stop by during office hours to ask about dōjō where it’s possible to drop in for training.

KŌDŌKAN JUDŌ INSTITUTE Map p72 講道館 %3818-4172; www.kodokan.org; 1-16-30 Kasuga, Bunkyō-ku; open practice h3.30-8pm Mon-Fri,

久明館 %3930-4636; 2-1-7 Akatsuka-Shinmachi, Itabashiku; bYūrakuchō Line to Chikatetsu-Narimasu (main exit) Kyūmeikan dōjō welcomes foreign observers as well as practitioners of kendō (meaning ‘way of the sword’), a discipline of wooden sword fighting that evolved from actual sword techniques used by samurai in battle. There’s a fee of around ¥5000 for a lesson lasting one hour or more; those seeking to practise here can usually reach an English speaker on the phone at the dōjō.

WORLD UNION OF KARATE-DŌ ORGANISATION (WUKO) Map p92 世界空手道連盟 %3503-6640; www.wuko-karate.org; 4th fl, Sempaku Shinkokaikan Bldg, 1-15-16 Toranomon, Minato-ku; bGinza Line to Toranomon, exit 2 Although Okinawa is the traditional home of Japan’s most famous martial art, there are usually several dōjō in the city offering karate instruction, as well as semi-regular events and tournaments. For an excellent overview of what’s going on in Tokyo as well as in the rest of the world, stop on by WUKO.

Prior to Japan’s miraculous postwar economic revolution, most private homes in Japan did not have baths, so every evening people gathered their toiletries into a bowl and headed off to the local neighbourhood sentō (public bath). More than just a place to wash oneself, the sentō served as a kind of community meeting hall, where news and gossip were traded and social ties strengthened. Unfortunately, the number of sentō in Japan is rapidly declining, but there are still enough left in Tokyo for you to sample this most traditional aspect of Japanese life. More than just a cultural experience, however, a soak in a sentō is the ideal way to cure the sore muscles born of a day of sightseeing. Sentō can be identified by their distinctive noren (half-length curtains over the doorway). Sentō noren usually bear the hiragana (ゆ, yu) for hot water (occasionally, it may be written in kanji: 湯). At the bottom of the noren, look for the kanji for men (男) and for women (女). Once you’ve located a sentō, determine the men’s or women’s side, take off your shoes, place them in a locker in the entryway and slide open the door to the changing room. As you enter, you’ll see the attendant, who sits midway between the men’s and women’s changing rooms, collecting the entry fee. Sentō usually cost between ¥300 and ¥500, which usually includes the rental of a modesty towel. If you’ve forgotten any of your toiletries, you can buy them here for a small price. Most sentō are open from around 3pm to midnight. In the changing room, you’ll see a bank of lockers and stacks of wicker or plastic baskets. Grab a basket and drop your clothes into it. Next, find one of the common senmenki (washbowls) and place your toiletries in it, then place your basket in a locker (these have keys on elastic bands). Now, use your modesty towel to cover up your sensitive bits, but don’t be alarmed if others around you haven’t – public nudity doesn’t have the same negative connotation here as it does in the West. Before you jump headfirst into the bath and immediately horrify all of your fellow bathers, you will first need to rigorously wash your entire body. This is done at the banks of low showers and taps that line the walls of the place. Grab a low stool and a bucket, and plant yourself at an open spot. First, fill the bucket with hot water and soap, work up a lather, and start scrubbing everywhere (and we do mean everywhere!). As a foreigner, your scrub-down process might be scrutinised by your fellow bathers, so it does pay to be thorough. Once you’ve washed thoroughly and removed all the soap, you are ready for a relaxing soak in the tubs. At a good sentō, you’ll have a choice of several tubs, which usually include a scalding tub, a cold tub and a whirlpool bath, as well as a sauna. At a great sentō, you may also find a variety of mineral water tubs and possibly even an electric bath, which, believe it or not, is meant to simulate swimming with electric eels! While soaking in the tub, it’s good form to adhere to the following etiquette: try not to enter the tub with your modesty towel, keep your head above the water, minimise your splashing and never wash yourself with the bath water. Otherwise, feel free to spread out, chit-chat with your fellow bathers and even take a snooze. After soaking away the strains of the day, if you’ve done everything correctly, you will have achieved a state called yude-dako (boiled octopus). This is the point when you’re going to want to rehydrate with a sports drink, or go for broke by downing a beer or two. Regardless of which route you choose, however, you’re going to want to stagger home quickly and collapse onto your futon. Trust us – after a day at the sentō, you’ll sleep like the dead.

PUBLIC BATHS & HOT SPRINGS

It has been said that a few minutes in a public bath will teach you more about daily life in Tokyo than any book you could ever read. These incredible venues, which locals still seem to frequent even though almost all apartments in Tokyo have their own shower and bath, continue to be some of the most inclusive, amazing social spaces in the city. Luckily, the metropolitan government seems to recognise this, and so every sentō (public bath) and onsen (hot spring) in the city is generously subsidised. This means you’ll usually be charged only around ¥500 for

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES HEALTH & FITNESS

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES HEALTH & FITNESS

to participate in recreational sports, which is why most facilities in the city are closed to nonmembers. However, you’ll find that visitors do have access to some of the city’s excellent, and heavily subsidised, public sports facilities.

INTERNATIONAL AIKIDŌ FEDERATION Map pp48–9

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4-7.30pm Sat; bToei Mita or Toei Ōedo Line to Kasuga (exits A1 & A2)

SENTŌ PRIMER

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S P O R T S & AC T I V I T I E S

the perfect soak – what a steal. It also means you’ll encounter people from all walks and at all stages of life – mafia bosses bathe solemnly alongside splashing toddlers and nobody bats an eye. If you’re craving a detour that will take you off the beaten tourist path, this is it. Though typically associated with mountain resorts and small country inns, several onsen are found in Tokyo. Most of these onsen draw their mineral water from deep underneath Tokyo Bay – by definition, what sets an onsen apart from a sentō is that onsen water must issue from a natural hot spring. Sentō, happily, can heat plain tap water to deliciously excruciating temperatures and bring baths to the city-dwelling masses.

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浅草観音温泉 %3844-4141; 2-7-26 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; admission ¥700; h6.30am-6pm Fri-Wed; bGinza, Hibiya or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit 6) Near Sensō-ji, the water at this traditional bathhouse is a steamy 40ºC. Asakusa’s historic ambience makes this a great place for a soul-soothing soak.

JAKOTSU-YU Map p86 蛇骨湯 %3841-8645; 1-11-11 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; admission ¥400; 1pm-midnight Wed-Mon; bGinza Line to Tawaramachi (exit 3)

KOSHI-NO-YU SENTŌ Map pp96–7 腰の湯銭湯 %3404-2610; 1-5-22 Azabu-Jūban, Minatoku; admission ¥400; h11am-11pm Wed-Mon; bNamboku or Toei Ōedo Line to Azabu-Jūban (exits 4 & 7)

One of the city’s few true onsen, this unbelievably chic and sophisticated spa complex is where serious bathing aficionados go to indulge in a bit of class and luxury. With multiple floors boasting an incredible variety of baths, massage parlours, restaurants and relaxation areas, achieving beauty as well as peace of mind has never been easier. See p58 for more information.

KOMPARU-YU ONSEN Map p62

Ō-EDO ONSEN MONOGATARI Map p131

The fact that this straightforward, Meiji-era bath manages to keep its wits about it, even as real estate prices continue to climb in the ritzy Ginza that surrounds it, must be one of Tokyo’s best jokes. The bath mistress is a daunting battle-axe – no kidding, this gal chews tacks. With this in mind, make sure you scrub extra hard behind your ears, and don’t even think about wearing the plastic slippers intended for the toilet out into the general locker room. That said, Komparu-yu is a refreshing slice of Shitamachi (low city)

LA QUA SPA Map p56 ラクーアスパ %5800-9999; www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/e/laqua /spa.htm; 1-3-61 Kōraku, Bunkyō-ku; entrance ¥2565, charge for Healing Baden ¥525; extra charge for late night bathing ¥1890; h11am-9am; bMarunouchi Line to Kōrakuen, or JR Chūō or JR Sōbu Line to Suidōbashi (west exit)

大江戸温泉物語 %5500-1126; 2-57 Aomi, Kōtō-ku; adult/child from ¥2800/1500, from 6pm-2am ¥1900/1500; h11am-9am; bYurikamome Line to Telecom Center (main exit) or Rinkai Line to Tokyo Teleport (free shuttle bus) Ō-edo Onsen Monogatari does bill itself as an old Edo ‘theme park’, so come here for kitsch rather than authenticity. It’s a good place to socialise in mixed groups, as there’s an outdoor footbath area for relaxing in your yukata (light cotton robe). You wouldn’t come here for a simple scrub, but if you’d like to make a day of it in Odaiba with some chums, this is a good place for an evening soak. See p130 for more information.

FEELING TONGUE-TIED? Don’t know your sayonara from your sumimasen? The following language schools can help you start speaking the Japanese language in no time: Academy of Language Arts (Map p56; %3235-0071; www.ala-japan.com; 5th fl, 2-16-2 Agebachō, Shinjuku-ku; bNamboku, Tōzai, Yūrakuchō or Toei Ōedo Line to Idabashi, exit B1) East West Japanese Language Institute (off Map pp48–9; %3366-4717; www.eastwest.ac.jp; 2-36-9 Chūō, Nakano-ku; bMarunouchi Line to Nakano-sakaue) Sendagaya Japanese Institute (Map p122; %3232-6181; www.jp-sji.org; 7th fl, 1-31-18 Takadanobaba, Shinjukuku; bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba, main exit)

ROKURYU KŌSEN Map p72 六龍鉱泉 %3821-3826; 3-4-20 Ikenohata, Taitō-ku; admission ¥300; h3.30-11pm Tue-Sun; bChiyoda Line to Nezu (exit 2) It may feel like a good neighbourhood sentō, but it’s actually an onsen where the water is pleasantly hot, as opposed to scalding hot as it is at some other city hot springs. The bubbling amber water contains minerals that the many old timers who come here in the afternoon claim can cure a number of ailments. These same folk tell stories about the occasional ancient leaf that’s worked its way up the pipes and into the tub. These leaves are in high demand and are reputed to be excellent for your skin. The bath is located down a small lane on the right; look for the traditional Japanese building with the blue curtains.

RUNNING

While Tokyo’s city streets are generally too crowded for jogging – though they do make an excellent obstacle course in that respect – there are parks aplenty for runners. Some of the best places to run, with lots of greenery and long paths, include Yoyogi-kōen (p108), Meijijingū (p109) and Higashi-gyōen (p51). If you prefer not to jog solo, and instead like it to be a social event, try ‘hashing’ with the Tokyo members of that famous drinking organisation with a running problem.

HASH HOUSE HARRIERS

variety of routes each week. Bring your best drinking shoes.

CYCLING

Tooling around Tokyo on a bike can turn you onto some wonderful unexpected alleys and back streets, but you will have to sharpen your senses to avoid opening taxi doors and pedestrians suddenly veering into your path. The city is pretty flat, so most of the challenge will come from finding your way between points B and A. Some ryokan (traditional Japanese inns) rent or loan bicycles to their guests, and there are a few mellow cycling courses in the city parks. Be sure to always lock up your bike as theft does happen, even in a city as seemingly innocuous as Tokyo.

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES HEALTH & FITNESS

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES HEALTH & FITNESS

This place is overseen by a no-nonsense bath mistress who watches the men’s and women’s sides closely for any serious bathing infractions or attempted voyeurism. Upstairs is the fancier Azabu-Jūban Onsen (¥1260), which uses the same tea-coloured, mineralrich water piped from 500m underground, but also features a sauna, a cold bath and tatami rooms. If you’re looking to hang out with the locals, however, the downstairs bathing area is really the thing.

This Edo-era bath is one of our favourite sentō in Tokyo (and the preferred place of repose for neighbourhood yakuza, Japanese mafia, as well). First, be warned: the bathers here adore this place and initially will watch you carefully to make sure no dirty or soapy bodies make their way into the sacred tub. Once you’ve convinced them you’re up to scrubbing every inch, head into the incredibly hot indoor soaking area where you’ll be massaged by tea-coloured water that is propelled by vigorous jets. Once you’re cooked, you’re ready for the real treat: the lovely, lantern-lit, rock-framed rotemburo (outdoor bath) that’s just outside. The water in this little pool is much more temperate and now that your muscles have been turned to loose string by the heat, you could sit here for hours, perhaps wandering occasionally to the cold bath a few steps away, just to keep yourself awake. Keep in mind that the sauna is off limits unless you pay an additional fee.

こんぱる湯 %3571-5469; 8-7-5 Ginza, Chūō-ku; admission ¥400; h2pm-midnight Mon-Sat; bGinza or JR Yamanote Line to Shimbashi (exit 1)

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in the midst of the city’s most fashionable and well-to-do precincts.

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ASAKUSA KANNON SENTŌ Map p86

EIGHT RENT Map p106 エイトレント %3462-2382; 31-16 Sakuragaokachō, Shibuya-ku; rentals per day ¥1920; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya (south exit) Near the south exit of Shibuya Station, this place requires a passport to rent a bicycle; call ahead for an appointment. It’s a decent deal if you’re renting for only one day, but if you plan to get around on a bike for the duration of your stay, you might be better off purchasing a cheap bike from Tōkyū Hands (p142) and selling it when you leave. Call ahead for an appointment.

IMPERIAL PALACE CYCLING COURSE

http://tokyohash.org

Map pp52–3

Formed in 1938, this worldwide club’s activities are a mix of mad dashing and serious drinking done by cheeky joggers with sobriquets such as ‘Sakura Sucker’. Several planned runs meander through a

Every Sunday, 500 free bicycles are lent for use along the 3.3km Imperial Palace cycling

皇居パレスサイクリングコース %3211-5020; h10am-3pm Sun; bChiyoda Line to Nijūbashimae (exit 2)

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Ohara School of Ikebana (小原流いけばな; International Division; Map p110; %5774-5097; www.ohararyu .or.jp/english/class/index2.htm; 5-7-17 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzōmon Line to Omote-sandō, exits B1 & B3) Ohara specialises in flower-arranging classes for students of all levels. One-timers and short-term visitors are welcome, as are those who’d just like to watch. Sōgetsu Kaikan (草月会館; Map p92; %3408-1151; www.sogetsu.or.jp/english/index.html; Sōgetsu Kaikan Bldg, 7-2-21 Akasaka, Minato-ku; h10am-5pm Mon-Thu & Sat, 10am-8pm Fri; bGinza, Hanzōmon or Toei Ōedo Line to Aoyama-itchōme, exit 4) An avant-garde ikebana school, with ikebana displays, a bookshop and coffee shop. Call ahead for class information. See p93 for more information.

Map p110

明治神宮 %3405-8753; h9am-4pm Sun & holidays; bToei Ōedo Line to Kokuritsu-Kyōgijō (exit A2) On Sundays and holidays, 400 bicycles are lent to ride the road that encircles Meijijingū’s outer gardens. Pick up these free bikes outside the office near the National Stadium (Map p110).

GOLF

Golfers who live in Tokyo claim that it’s cheaper to tee off in Hawaii because the entire trip costs less than booking a space at one of the 500 local courses. Sadly, they’re probably right, though Tokyo does have 19 public golf courses that are somewhat reasonable (assuming you can get a spot). The most conveniently located of the public courses is listed below:

TOKYO TOMIN GOLF COURSE off Map pp48–9

東京都民ゴルフ場 %3919-0111; 1-15-1 Shinden, Adachi-ku; admission from ¥5000; bNamboku Line to Shimo If you dream of sand traps and short puts, you’ll want to consider giving this place a go. Some ability to speak Japanese will be useful when making a reservation, though most hotel staff can easily help you past this obstacle. Keep in mind that spring and autumn tend to be when the weather is fine and the course is often booked out weeks in advance.

What could be better on a sweltering summer afternoon than gliding around an icy, indoor skating rink? If you’d rather mentally score the double axels than execute them, the rinks sell ‘observer’ tickets (¥300 to ¥400) for those not taking to the ice.

TAKADANOBABA CITIZEN ICE SKATE RINK Map pp48–9 高田馬場シチズンアイススケートリ ンク %3371-0910; 4-29-27 Takadanobaba, Shinjukuku; adult/child ¥1300/800; hnoon-7.45pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7.45pm Sun; bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba (Waseda exit) The people’s skating rink, a 30m by 60m slab of ice, is used for lessons, ice hockey, speed skating and general-purpose fun. Skate rental costs ¥500; discounts are taken off admission if you show up after 5pm. Head west out of Takadanobaba Station and walk about five minutes along Waseda-dōri; look for the big yellow sign to your left.

MEIJI-JINGŪ ICE SKATING RINK Map p110

明治神宮アイススケート場 %3403-3458; Gobanchi, Kasumigaoka, Shinjukuku; adult/child ¥1300/900; hnoon-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun; bToei Ōedo Line to Kokoritsu-Kyōgijō (exit A2) or JR Chūō or JR Sōbu Line to Sendagaya (main exit) Open year-round, Meiji-jingū Ice Skating Rink is there for a good twirl and glide around the rink. When you arrive you’ll be given a choice between three types of skates – ice hockey, speed skating and figure skating (rentals cost ¥500). Choose whichever will help you move most gracefully across the NHL-sized rink. Discounts on admission are offered after 3pm.

CHIYODA SOGO TAIKUKAN POOL Map p68

ブリヂストン美術館 %3256-8444; www.city.chiyoda.tokyo.jp/english /e-guide/sports.html; 2-1-8 Uchi-Kanda, Chiyodaku; pool/gym ¥600/350; h9am-9.30pm, closed 3rd Mon; bChiyoda, Hanzōmon or Marunouchi Line to Ōtemachi (exits A1, A2, C1 & C2) A public pool and weight room are available for reasonable fees. The pool is open to the public from 5pm to 9pm on most days, but hours vary. Keep in mind that certain times during the day are reserved for those residing in Chiyoda. The website lists details in English.

CHŪŌ-KU SOGO SPORTS CENTRE Map p126

中央区総合スポーツセンター %3666-1501; 2-59-1 Nihombashi-Hamachō, Chūōku; pool/gym ¥500/400; h9am-8.30pm; bToei Shinjuku Line to Hamachō Another of Tokyo’s public gyms, this one in Chūō-ku has gym facilities and a swimming pool. Kyūdo (Japanese archery) practice also takes place at the sports centre; though no lessons are given, spectators are welcome to watch this graceful discipline if anyone is practising here.

TOKYO METROPOLITAN GYMNASIUM INDOOR POOL Map p110 東京体育館 %5474-2111; 1-17-1 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; admission ¥450; h9am-8pm, closed 3rd Mon; bJR Sōbu Line to Sendagaya (main exit) If all that movement on land has made you crave a few laps, head here. In addition to a pool there’s a weights room, although its use requires an extra fee. The gymnasium and pool are located just to the northwest of the

YOGA

Although yoga is not as popular as it was a few years back, loyal devotees are still twisting and contorting themselves in the pursuit of peace of mind and strength of body. If you’re looking to take part in classes, the city’s largest school is listed below:

INTERNATIONAL YOGA CENTER off Map pp48–9

インターナショナルヨガセンター %090-4596-7996; www.iyc.jp; 4th fl, 5-30-6 Ogikubo, Suginami-ku; sessions ¥3000; bMarunouchi Line to Ogikubo (south exit) Drop in to do the downward dog at the International Yoga Center, which has branches across Tokyo. Ninety-minute classes in Ashtanga and Iyengar yoga are given in Japanese, but you can check the website for a list of English-speaking instructors and where and when they’ll be teaching.

WATCHING SPORT From sumō and baseball to soccer and horse racing, the Tokyo’s sports calendar is jampacked full of exciting events year round.

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES WATCHING SPORT

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES HEALTH & FITNESS

MEIJI-JINGŪ OUTER GARDENS

SKATING

In general, joining a Japanese gym is a cumbersome, expensive process best undertaken only by those who will be living in Tokyo. With that said, if you’re here for the long run, we recommend it – most gyms have very good facilities and superb bathing areas that are especially tempting in winter. However, if you’re just in the mood for a good swim or functional workout, the following spots should help you work up a good sweat. Most swimming pools require that swimmers wear bathing caps.

National Stadium in Harajuku, just a few minutes’ walk from the Sendagaya JR Station.

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Fancy a hand at ikebana, the traditional Japanese art of flower-arranging? Schools to get you started:

course. Bikes are given on a first-come, firstserved basis and can be picked up next to the Babasakimon police box just outside the station exit.

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GYMS & POOLS

THE GENTLE ART OF IKEBANA

SUMŌ

Sumō is a fascinating, highly ritualised activity steeped in Shintō tradition. Perhaps sumō’s continuing claim on the national imagination lies in its ancient origins and elaborate rites; it’s the only traditional Japanese sport that still has enough clout to draw big crowds and dominate primetime TV. When a tournament isn’t in session, you can enjoy the Sumō Museum (p125), next door to the stadium. Displays include humungous wrestler hand-prints and the referees’ ceremonial clothing. Unfortunately, there are no English explanations, and during tournaments the museum is open only to attending ticket-holders.

RYŌGOKU KOKUGIKAN Map p126 両国国技館 %3623 5111; www.sumo.or.jp/eng/index.html; 13-28 Yokoami, Sumida-ku; admission ¥500-45,000; hopening ceremonies 8.30am, ticket office 10am6pm; bJR Sōbu or Toei Ōedo Lines to Ryōgoku

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J-LEAGUE SOCCER

Japan was already soccer crazy when the World Cup came to Saitama and Yokohama in 2002. Now it’s a chronic madness, and five minutes of conversation with any 10-yearold in Tokyo about why they wanna grow up to be like David Beckham should clear up any doubts you might have to the contrary. J-League games are generally played outside the city. If you’d like to catch an international match, try the National Stadium.

NATIONAL STADIUM Map p110

BASEBALL

Baseball is Japan’s most popular sport and six of Japan’s 12 pro-baseball teams are based in Tokyo. A trip to one of the local ballparks is truly a cultural (or perhaps a religious?) experience – the crowd behaviour is completely unlike what you’re probably used to at home. The home team’s fans often turn up in matching happi (half-length coats) and perform intricate cheering rituals in perfect unison led by special cheerleaders, one for each section, who make a job out of whipping fans into a

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well-ordered frenzy. Sitting in the cheap seats will put you right in the middle of it. Baseball season starts at the end of March or the first week of April and runs until October. Tokyo Dome is probably the most exciting place to take in a game, though Jingū Stadium can make for a fun afternoon out when the weather is fair. See also the Japanese Baseball Hall of Fame (p59) for some history of the sport in Japan.

JINGŪ BASEBALL STADIUM Map p110 神宮球場 Jingū Kyūjo; %3404-8999; 13 Kasumigaoka, Shinjuku-ku; tickets from ¥1500; hgames start 6pm; bGinza Line to Gaienmae (north exit)

国立競技場 Kokuritsu Kyōgijō; %3403-1151; Kasumigaokamachi, Shinjuku-ku; admission from ¥2000; bJR Chūō Line to Sendagaya (east exit) Completed in 1958 and used as one of the primary venues for the 1964 Olympics, National Stadium now hosts the annual Toyota Cup (November or December) and other international soccer events.

HORSE RACING

There are two big racing tracks in the Tokyo area, offering weekend gamblers a good chance to wager (and lose) some money. Gambling is illegal in Japan except in sanctioned contexts –

ŌI KEIBAJŌ Map p62 大井競馬場 %3763-2151; 2-1-2 Katsushima, Shinagawa-ku; general admission ¥100, reserved seats ¥500-2000; bTokyo Monorail to Ōi-Keibajōmae Each year from April to October, Ōi Keibajō offers night-time ‘Twinkle Races’. The races are lit by mercury lamps, whose diffused light draws young couples out on hot dates. Though the popularity of horse racing has declined over the past decade, some lucky record-breaker won over ¥13 million from a mere ¥100 bet here in May 2005.

TOKYO KEIBAJŌ off Map pp48–9 東京競馬場 Fuchū Racecourse; %0423-633 141; 1-1 Hiyoshichō, Fuchū-shi; admission varies; bKeiō Line to Fuchūkeiba-Seimonmae (pedestrian overpass) More popularly known as Fuchū Racecourse, Tokyo Keibajō’s 500m-long home straight is the longest in the country and can make for exciting, win-by-a-nose finishes. This track is where most major and international races take place. Admission varies depending on the popularity of the event.

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES WATCHING SPORT

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES WATCHING SPORT

Tokyo’s bashō (sumō wrestling tournaments) take place at this stadium in January, May and September. Unless you’re aiming for a big match at a weekend you should be able to secure a ticket: bashō take place over 15 days. The best seats are bought up by those in the know who also happen to have the right connections, but upstairs seats are usually available and cost from ¥2300 to ¥7000. Nonreserved seats at the back sell for ¥1500, and if you don’t mind standing, you can get in for around ¥500. Tickets can be purchased up to a month prior to the tournament or you can simply turn up on the day of the match. It’s advisable to get there early, as keen punters start queuing the night before. Note that only one ticket is sold per person, a clever device used to foil scalpers. The stadium is adjacent to JR Ryōgoku Station, on the north side of the railway tracks. If you can’t go in person, NHK televises sumō from 3.30pm daily during tournaments.

horse racing being one of them. If you’re itching to take your chances, look up the Japan Racing Association’s English guide online at http://japanracing.jp. Races are generally held at weekends from 11am to 4pm and are a hot destination for young couples on dates.

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ENGLISH CONVERSATION CAFÉS An excellent way to meet Japanese people is to stop by an English conversation café, where you can chat with students looking to brush up their language skills. The following list should get you started: Com ‘Inn (コムイン; Map p102; %3794-7366; www.cominn-jp.com; admission men/women ¥3000/2000 allyou-can-drink; 1-3-9 Minami-Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; bJR Ebisu, south exit) The longest-running and most established conversation café in Tokyo, Com ‘Inn holds biweekly international parties on Saturday nights that pack the house. Leafcup (リーフカップ; Map p56; %5856-7587; www.leafcup.com; admission men/women ¥3000/2000 (all-you-can-drink); 4-2-6 Iidabashi, Chiyoda-ku; bTozai Line to Iidabashi, exit A5; Nanboku, Yuurakucho or ToeiOedo lines to Iidabashi, exit A4 or JR Yamanote Line to Iidabashi, east exit) The most comfortable and attractive of the conversation cafés, Leafcup also holds biweekly international parties on Saturday nights that highlight different fun-filled themes. Mickey House (Map p122; 英会話喫茶ミッキハウス; %3209-9686; www.mickeyhouse.jp; admission ¥500 (with 1 drink); 2-14-4 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; bTozai Line to Takadanobaba, exit 6; JR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba,Waseda Exit) An excellent place for a beer and light conversation most nights of the week, Mickey House really picks up on Friday and Saturday nights during international parties of their own.

attended and can be especially exciting. There are ticket booths on three sides of the Big Egg; after purchasing your ticket, navigate to the gate you want.

Now home for the Yakult Swallows, Tokyo’s number two team, Jingū Baseball Stadium was originally built to host the 1964 Olympics. When not hosting Yakult Swallows games, the baseball stadium is sometimes used for high-profile Little League and intercollegiate championships. You can buy tickets from the booth in front of the stadium; outfield tickets can cost as little as ¥1500.

TOKYO DOME Map p56 東京ドーム Big Egg; %5800-9999; www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/e; 1-3-61 Kōraku, Bunkyō-ku; admission from ¥1500; bJR Chūō or JR Sōbu Line to Suidōbashi (west exit) The ‘Big Egg’, as it’s affectionately known, is the best place to catch a baseball game in the city, as it’s the home turf of Japan’s most popular baseball team, the Yomiuri Giants. Night games tend to be well-

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Hotels & Hostels Want more Sleeping recommendations than we could ever pack into this little ol’ book? Craving more detail – including extended reviews and photographs? Want to read reviews by other travellers and be able to post your own? Just make your way over to lonelyplanet.com/hotels and check out our thorough list of independent reviews, then reserve your room simply and securely.

S LE E PI N G

Westin Hotel Tokyo (p211) – Tokyo’s finest hotel, the choice of royals and Hollywood celebs. Park Hyatt Tokyo (p213) – Skyscraping luxury with stunning night views. Ryokan Shigetsu (p209) – Gorgeous traditional inn. Sukeroku No Yado Sadachiyo (p209) – Old-style hospitality in Asakusa. Kimi Ryokan (p216) – A very friendly, authentic ryokan experience for budget prices.

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Tokyo has thousands of places to sleep, and not all of them will cost you an arm and a leg. But if you’ve come here on a budget, expect some noise, less space and a longer walk from the train station. Check out Cheap Sleeps in Sanya (p209) for some sweet budget deals. If expense is not so much of an issue, choose from a myriad of decadent rooms – many boast incredible city views. Central neighbourhoods like Ginza, Shinjuku and Akasaka are ideal, with loads of high-end options. Though most of the accommodation in Tokyo is Western style, there are a few traditional inns and hotels. For full definitions of each type of lodging, see below. Note that most Tokyo ryokan (traditional Japanese inns) don’t exactly fit the traditional mould found elsewhere in Japan. Rack rates are quoted in this chapter, but prices can vary drastically. Most business and highend hotels offer discounts, often significant ones, for reservations made in advance via phone or internet; check their websites for seasonal deals. Rates at budget places usually remain as quoted. Keep in mind that during Golden Week (29 April to 5 May) and other national holidays (see p249 for details), rooms may be booked out or, if available, very expensive.

ACCOMMODATION STYLES Business Hotels

Capsule Hotels

Of course they’re small, but they’re roomy enough to recline in, and each capsule is fitted with a bed, reading light, TV and alarm clock. Despite the room’s size, prices still range from ¥3500 to ¥5000; capsules are also cash only. Most of their business comes from drunken office workers who have missed the last train home, but their novelty value attracts the odd foreigner. Many capsule hotels have a wellappointed bath area similar to a good local sentō (public bath).

Gaijin Houses

If you’re a budget traveller planning on settling in Tokyo, you might consider landing first at a gaijin (foreigner) house while getting your bearings. These are private dwellings that have been partitioned into rooms or apartments and rented out to gaijin. See opposite for reputable agencies.

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Love hotels are not always as naughty as they sound, but they do have their fair share of themed rooms ranging from Hello Kitty to African safari. Japanese couples use them for privacy and intimacy. They are distinguished by discreet, hidden entrances so that patrons can come and go anonymously. Posted outside love hotels are signs indicating the rates for a one- or two-hour stay, referred to as a kyūkei (literally ‘rest’), and for an overnight stay, referred to as tomari. Overnight rates are fairly reasonable (around ¥8000; no credit cards accepted), but generally most love hotels will not allow you to check in for an overnight stay until around 10pm or 11pm.

Luxury Hotels

In the top-end bracket, you can expect to find the amenities of deluxe hotels anywhere in the world. Expect satellite TV beaming in CNN and the BBC, high-speed internet access and enough space to properly unwind. The staff speak English, the rooms are spotless and the service is impeccable. In addition, most of Tokyo’s luxury hotels have several good restaurants and bars, many of which offer outstanding city views.

PRICE GUIDE ¥¥¥ ¥¥ ¥

over ¥16,000 a night ¥6500 to ¥16,000 a night under ¥6500 a night

Ryokan

For those who crave a really traditional Japanese experience with tatami (woven-mat floor) rooms and futon instead of beds, the ryokan (traditional Japanese inns) have it. Although the more exclusive establishments can charge upwards of ¥25,000, there are a number of relatively inexpensive ryokan in Tokyo. These places are generally more accustomed to foreigners than their counterparts in more remote parts of Japan and the rules tend to be a bit more relaxed as a result. The trade-off is that you don’t usually get the strictly traditional experience, with Japanese meals and the diurnal stowing away of your futon. Some ryokan offer rooms with private baths, but the communal ones are often designed with ‘natural’ pools or a window looking onto a garden. Bathing is communal, but sexes are segregated. Make sure you can differentiate between the bathroom signs for men and women (although ryokan will often have signs in English). At traditional ryokan, dinner is usually laid out in the guest rooms. Along with rice, the meal usually includes standard dishes such as miso soup, tsukemono (pickles), sunomono (vegetables in vinegar), zensai (hors d’oeuvres), sashimi (fish either grilled or raw), and perhaps tempura and a stew. Meals at a ryokan can become flamboyant displays of local cuisine or refined arrangements of kaiseki (see p154 for more information). After dinner, the dishes are cleared and your bedding is prepared – a futon is placed on the tatami floor and a quilt put on top. Although some ryokan will allow you to pay by credit card, you should always ask at check-in if you hope to do so. The ryokan listed in this book are generally budget and midrange; those wishing to stay in top-end ryokan should inquire at the Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO; p255).

RYOKAN Sukeroku no Yado Sadachiyo (p209) Sawanoya Ryokan (p208) Kimi Ryokan (p216)

Youth Hostels

Tokyo’s youth hostels are much like youth hostels elsewhere: a bit noisy, not much atmosphere and a mixture of dorms and private rooms. On the plus side, they are used to foreigners and are cleaner than many of their overseas counterparts. A room in a typical youth hostel is about ¥3200, cash only. Membership is often not required.

Other Options

The JNTO (Japan National Tourist Organization; p255) can give you information about several other lodging options in and around Tokyo, including shukubō (staying on the grounds of a temple), onsen (hot-spring resorts) and converted farmhouses or kokuminshukusha (people’s lodges). It also has information for travellers with special needs, such as seniors or travellers with disabilities, and those with children.

TAX

A 5% consumption tax applies to room rates across all accommodation categories, with the exception of gaijin houses (see opposite) and some of the other budget options. On high-end accommodation (generally rooms costing over ¥16,000), a 3% local tax is also added to the 10% to 15% service charge. Prices quoted in this chapter are not inclusive of these taxes. Finally, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government now tacks on a small per-person accommodation tax on all rooms costing more than ¥10,000: ¥100 for rooms costing up to ¥14,999 and ¥200 for rooms costing more than ¥15,000.

SLEEPING LONGER-TERM RENTALS

SLEEPING ACCOMMODATION STYLES

A common form of midrange accommodation is the so-called ‘business hotel’ – usually as functional and economical as the name would suggest. Geared to the lone traveller on business, the typical Tokyo business-hotel room will have pay TV and a tiny bathroom, and cost between ¥7000 and ¥12,000. Most accept credit cards, but you should always ask when you check in. Some of the nicer business hotels have large shared baths and saunas.

Love Hotels

Similar to ryokan, but generally simpler in décor and cheaper, are minshuku (like Western B&Bs). These are private homes that accept visitors and offer food, usually both breakfast and dinner. Minshuku in Tokyo generally cost about ¥6000 to ¥8000 per person (cash only), including two meals, making these one of your better travel bargains. Few minshuku owners speak English, but they’ll welcome you warmly.

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Minshuku

S LE E PI N G

LONGER-TERM RENTALS

Renting an apartment in Tokyo can be a real challenge – expect a big deposit (often five months’ rent) and an unwillingness to rent to foreign tenants. The deposit usually consists

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Kimi Information Center (Map p122; %3986-1604; www.kimiwillbe.com; 8th fl, 2-42-3 Ikebukuro, Toshimaku; bIkebukuro, west exit) Run by the family owning Kimi Ryokan (p216), Kimi Information Center can help you to find an affordable apartment. Kimi charges an agency fee equal to one month’s deposit. Locations tend to be around working-class Ikebukuro.

Serviced Apartments

If you’re in Tokyo for more than a week or a month, serviced apartments can be more comfortable and affordable than a hotel. Look in the Japan Times or Metropolis. No key money is required, but you generally pay a one-month deposit. For nice digs in prime neighbourhoods, rent may be ¥100,000 to ¥180,000 per week. The following offer serviced apartments: Oakwood Worldwide (%5786-7800; www.oakwood .com) Oakwood Worldwide has nine serviced apartments in central Tokyo that are ideal if you’re looking for a stylish place for at least a week. Daily rates start from ¥10,500.

BOOK ACCOMMODATION ONLINE For more accommodation reviews and recommendations by Lonely Planet authors, check out the online booking service at www.lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find the true, insider lowdown on the best places to stay. Reviews are thorough and independent. Best of all, you can book online.

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IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI At the doorstep of the Imperial Palace and the heart of the Marunouchi business district, the Tokyo Station area has a few fine hotels and some good midrange places designed for short-term business travellers. Though currently undergoing a major facelift with new shops and restaurants, it is quieter in the evenings. The area provides quick access to the rest of the city via the JR Yamanote Line, as well as Kyoto and other destinations via Shinkansen bullet trains.

PENINSULA HOTEL Map pp52–3

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

ザ・ペニンシュラ東京 %6270-2288; http://tokyo.peninsula.com; 1-8-1 Yurakuchō, Chiyoda-ku; r from ¥60,000; bJR Yamanote Line to Yurakuchō (Hibiya exit) or subway to Hibiya (exits A6 & A7); is This superb new deluxe high-rise brings downtown decadence to dizzying heights. One almost gets a feeling of guilty extravagance when sprawling out in the vast rooms (starting at 51 square metres), which overlook the Imperial Palace and Hibiya Moat and have floor-to-ceiling windows. Latticed caramel woodwork, sumptuous marble bathrooms and a dark central atrium filled with luminous art unite in a delicious symphony of modern design. The Peninsula is a breath of fresh air on the Marunouchi hotel scene and offers several excellent wining and dining options as well as a very decadent spa.

PALACE HOTEL Map pp52–3

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

パレスホテル %3211-5211; www.palacehotel.co.jp/english; 1-11 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; s/d from ¥25,200/30,450; bŌtemachi subway (exit C13b); i Right by the Imperial Palace, the Palace Hotel has an old-fashioned atmosphere and sits on one of the most exclusive spots in Tokyo. The rooms, numbering nearly 400, are conventional but elegant, with large bathrooms. There is also a soothing garden of raked gravel.

MARUNOUCHI HOTEL Map pp52–3

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

丸の内ホテル %3215-2151; www.marunouchi-hotel.co.jp; Oazo Bldg, 1-6-3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; s/d from ¥23,300/31,385; bTokyo, Marunouchi (north exit) Located in the recently built Oazo Building opposite Tokyo Station, this swanky business hotel deftly synthesises modern conveniences with Japanese style. Shōji (sliding rice-paper screens) over windows and gorgeous inlaid wood furnishings accent simple, unfussy rooms.

YAESU TERMINAL HOTEL Map pp52–3

Business Hotel ¥¥

八重洲ターミナルホテル %3281-3771; www.yth.jp; 1-5-14 Yaesu, Chūō-ku; s/d ¥11,340/16,590; bTokyo, Yaesu (north exit) This sleek little business hotel on cherrytree-lined Sakura-dōri has contemporary lines and a minimalist look. Though room sizes are most definitely on the microscopic end, they’re decently priced for this neighbourhood and very modern.

SAKURA HOTEL Map pp52–3

Hostel ¥

サクラホテル神保町 %3261-3939; www.sakura-hotel.co.jp; 2-214 Kanda-Jimbōchō, Chiyoda-ku; dm/s/d from ¥3780/6090/8200; bMarunouchi, Toei Mita or Toei Shinjuku Line to Jimbōchō, exit A6; i The Sakura Hotel is a great budget option with a sociable atmosphere. Staff are bilingual and helpful, and the rooms, though basic, are comfortable and clean. There’s a 24-hour café, a laundry and internet access.

There’s a whiff of pretension about the New Ōtani, but it’s justified, loaded as it is with large, luxurious rooms (refurbished in 2007), upscale restaurants, boutiques and gift shops. This landmark has its own art museum and an immaculate 400-year-old garden (see p59 for more information).

GRAND PRINCE HOTEL AKASAKA Map p56

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

グランドプリンスホテル赤坂 %3234-1111; www.princehotelsjapan.com; 1-2 Kioi-chō, Chiyoda-ku; s/d from ¥27,500/34,000; bGinza or Marunouchi Line to Akasaka-mitsuke, (exit 7) or Hanzōmon, Namboku or Yūrakuchō Line to Nagatachō (exits 5, 7 & 9); i This tower, designed by architect Tange Kenzō to echo the shape of a Japanese fan, has over 700 spacious rooms, with most providing excellent views. The lobby is done up with marble and mirrors, while rooms are simple in design and large.

TOKYO INTERNATIONAL HOSTEL Map p56

Youth Hostel ¥

東京国際ホステル %3235-1107; www.tokyo-ih.jp; 1-1 Kagurakashi, Shinjuku-ku; dm adult/child ¥3860/3360; bIidabashi (west exit); i These clean, well-managed dorm rooms have some of the best night views in all of Tokyo, looking west over the old outer moat of Edo Castle. The design is rather institutional (there’s even a conference room), but this is a model hostel outfitted with a cafeteria (for breakfast and dinner), laundry and internet access. Be sure to catch the sunset over one of Japan’s most stunning budget views.

SLEEPING CENTRAL TOKYO

SLEEPING IMPERIAL PALACE & MARUNOUCHI

Sakura House (Map p116;%5330-5250; www.sakura house.com; 2nd fl, 7-2-6 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; bShinjuku, east exit) Sakura House has extensive listings of apartments that welcome foreigners. They have staff members who are fluent in English, Korean and Chinese, and they’ll escort you to visit apartments or shared housing. The minimum occupancy is one month.

Mori Building (%6406-6654; www.moriliving.com) Mori Building runs a number of landmark structures catering to longer-term visitors, including the exclusive Roppongi Hills Residences.

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Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

of a one-month finder’s fee for the real-estate agency, the landlord’s reikin (key money – a ‘gift’ that is usually two months’ rent), and a deposit for the last month as well as the first month’s rent. Rooms with no reikin can be found, but check their age and distance from the closest station. The following are some English-speaking real estate agents in Tokyo who specialise in helping foreigners find rentals in gaijin houses. Rents may be a bit higher through these agencies because you’re receiving the apartment without the hefty deposit. If you plan on staying in Japan for more than a year, it’s worth paying the larger deposit to get a bigger place with lower rent.

CENTRAL TOKYO GINZA Central Tokyo is a much quieter base from Ginza and the recent revitalisation of nearby which to explore the city compared to hubs on the Yamanote Line, and is especially worthwhile in spring when there are myriad cherry trees in bloom along the moats surrounding the Imperial Palace. Nightlife isn’t far away, with the old geisha district of Kagurazaka near Iidabashi and the salaryman pleasure zone of Akasaka close to Nagatachō.

Shiodome offer some of Tokyo’s poshest accommodation, all with easy transport access. Along with the ultraluxurious, however, are some sleek, midrange hotels. Expect rates to be higher than in the rest of the city – Ginza real estate is some of the priciest on the planet.

HOTEL SEIYŌ GINZA HOTEL NEW ŌTANI Map p56 Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥ ホテルニューオータニ %3265-1111; www.newotanihotels.com/tokyo; 4-1 Kioi-chō, Chiyoda-ku; s/d from ¥31,000/36,000; bGinza or Marunouchi Line to Akasaka-mitsuke (Belle Vie exit); i

Map p62

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

ホテル西洋 銀座 %3535-1111; www.seiyo-ginza.com; 1-11-2 Ginza, Chūō-ku; r ¥61,215-254,100; bYūrakuchō Line to Ginza-itchōme (exit 7), or Ginza Line to Kyōbashi (exit 2)

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IMPERIAL HOTEL Map p62

MERCURE HOTEL GINZA TOKYO Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

メルキュールホテル銀座 %4335-1111; www.mercure.com; 2-9-4 Ginza, Chūō-ku; s/d from ¥18,375/24,150; bYūrakuchō Line to Ginza-itchōme (exit 11); i This refreshingly designed little boutique hotel has chinoiserie prints, floral décor, snazzy red doors and leather chairs. A short walk from the department stores, it’s popular with ladies from out of town who come in for Ginza shopping expeditions, but is equally suited to business travellers and tourists.

MITSUI URBAN HOTEL GINZA Business Hotel ¥¥

三井アーバンホテル銀座 %3527-4131; www.granvista.co.jp; 8-6-15 Ginza, Chūō-ku; s/d from ¥14,500/25,000; bJR Yamanote Line to Shimbashi (Ginza exit) or Ginza Line to Shimbashi (exit 3); i Renovated in 2007, the Mitsui Urban’s rooms are presented in mahogany and caramel tones, with flat-screen TVs accenting the urban décor. Two floors of restaurants will cover you from breakfast to nightcap.

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Business Hotel ¥¥

銀座日航ホテル %3571-4911; www.ginza-nikko-hotel.com; 8-4-21 Ginza, Chūō-ku; s/d from ¥13,960/27,920; bJR Yamanote Line to Shimbashi (Ginza exit) or Ginza Line to Shimbashi (exit 5); i Though this Ginza hotel has been around for some 50 years, it’s looking fine and bright after a thorough renovation. The décor is a cut above business hotel generic, with commodious beds and full bathtubs.

SHIODOME Revitalised Shiodome, a sliver of slick development between Shimbashi and Hama Rikyū Onshi-teien (Detached Palace Garden), provides an upscale, high-rise accommodation alternative to the smaller hotels of Ginza, and it’s quieter in the evenings. Some rooms have great night-time views of Tokyo Bay and Rainbow Bridge.

CONRAD HOTEL Map p65

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

コンラッド東京ホテル %6388-8000; www.conradtokyo.co.jp; 19-1 Higashi-Shimbashi, Minato-ku; s/d from ¥52,000/57,000; bJR Yamanote, Ginza or Toei Asakusa Line to Shimbashi (Shiodome exit) or Ōedo Line to Shiodome One of the gigantic, glittery gems comprising the new Shiodome development adjacent to Hama Rikyū Onshi-teien, the Conrad Hotel is definitely a new contender for the attentions of upscale travellers looking for that central, supersophisticated base in Tokyo. The garden or city views are equally spectacular, as are the varnished hardwood interiors and floor-to-ceiling glassed-in bathrooms.

HOTEL VILLA FONTAINE SHIODOME Map p65

Business Hotel ¥¥

ホテルヴィラフォンテーヌ汐留 %5339-1200; www.hvf.jp/eng/; 1-9-2 HigashiShimbashi, Minato-ku; s/d from ¥10,000/14,000; bJR Yamanote, Ginza or Toei Asakusa Line to Shimbashi (Shiodome exit) or Ōedo Line to Shiodome; i Cone-shaped lanterns light the highceilinged black marble lobby. Sculptural red blobs and flame-themed art on the walls lead to upscale rooms with internet, TV and partial views of Hama Rikyū Onshiteien. This is an excellent deal in one of Tokyo’s newest neighbourhoods.

ALTERNATIVES TO SLEEPING If you’ve missed the last train back to your hotel, that ¥3000 in your pocket might be better spent staying out all night than on a taxi ride home. Happily, nocturnal Tokyo has options for insomniacs. There’s always a nearby manga (comic book) café. Full-night rates are a bargain, comparable to those at capsule hotels. For around ¥1000, you can while away the wee hours watching DVDs, reading manga, surfing the internet (around six hours’ free access) and having a bite to eat (including free drinks) – or napping in your lounge chair. Café J Net New New (Map p106; %5458-5935; Saito Bldg, 7th fl, 34-5 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku; h24hr; bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya, Hachikō exit) Manga Hiroba (まんが広場六本木店; Map pp96–7; %3497-1751; Shuwa Roppongi Bldg, 2nd fl, 3-14-12 Roppongi, Minato-ku; h24hr; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi, exit 3) Manga@Café Gera Gera (インターネット&まんが@café ゲラゲラ; Map p116; %3204-8532; 1-27-9 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; h24hr; bJR Yamanote Line to Shinjuku, east exit).

AKIHABARA & KANDA Kanda is Tokyo at its most drab, but it does have some good midrange bargains because of the many salarymen thronging here. It’s also a stone’s throw from the electronics and pop culture mecca of Akihabara. Nearby are some of Tokyo’s finest traditional restaurants (see p160 for listings) and Jimbōchō’s millions of antique manuscripts (see p143 for more information).

PRESSO INN KANDA Map p68

Business Hotel ¥¥

プレッソイン神田 %3252-0202; www.presso-inn.com; 2-8 KandaTachō, Chiyoda-ku; s/d ¥7770/13,650; bJR Yamanote Line or Chūō Line to Kanda (west exit); i The Presso Inn chain is very much a businessperson’s hotel, with purely functional décor and few frills – rooms are cramped and institutional but fine for crashing. There is a complimentary breakfast of croissants baked on site.

YAMA-NO-UE (HILLTOP) HOTEL Map p68

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

山の上ホテル %3293-2311; www.yamanoue-hotel.co.jp; 1-1 Kanda-Surugadai, Chiyoda-ku; s/d from ¥17,850/25,200; bJR Chūō or JR Sōbu Line to Ochanomizu (Ochanomizu exit) This grand old place from the 1930s exudes personality and charm, with antique wooden furniture and a wainscotted lounge. Mishima Yukio wrote his last few novels here. The older rooms in the main building come with antique writing desks and overstuffed chairs.

HOTEL MY STAYS OCHANOMIZU Map p68

Business Hotel ¥¥

ホテルマイステイズ御茶ノ水 %5289-3939; www.mystays.jp/ochanomizu/, in Japanese; 2-10-6 Kanda Awajichō, Chiyoda-ku; s/d from ¥10,000/13,000; bJR Chūō or JR Sōbu Line to Ochanomizu (Hijiribashi exit) Reopened in 2007, this stylish business hotel stands out for its bold brown-and-white colour scheme, reasonable prices and extras like large Simmons beds. The Family Mart and modern European café OAKS on the ground floor are additional conveniences.

NEW CENTRAL HOTEL Map p68

Business Hotel ¥¥

ニューセントラルホテル %3256-2171; www.pelican.co.jp/newcentral hotel/, in Japanese; 2-7-2 Kanda-Tachō, Chiyoda-ku; s/d ¥7350/7875; bJR Yamanote Line to Kanda, west exit

SLEEPING AKIHABARA & KANDA

SLEEPING SHIODOME

The Imperial Hotel’s present building is the successor to Frank Lloyd Wright’s 1923 masterpiece, and small tributes to Wright – in the form of a chair or a modernist motif – adorn the lobby. Large rooms on the newest Imperial floor have been updated with features such as large-screen plasma TVs and high-speed internet.

Map p62

Map p62

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

帝国ホテル %3504-1111; www.imperialhotel.co.jp; 1-1-1 Uchisaiwaichō, Chiyoda-ku; s/d from ¥31,500/36,750; bChiyoda, Hibiya or Toei Mita Line to Hibiya (exit A13); i

Map p62

GINZA NIKKŌ HOTEL

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Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

The Hotel Seiyō Ginza, which is part of the luxury Rosewood group and was refurbished in 2001, resembles a rambling mansion hosting several parties at once. Each of the rooms here has a personal butler (with 25 on staff altogether). The rooms are cavernous, with a homey yet tasteful décor. For those of you requiring rarefied isolation, the Seiyō can be your secret hideaway.

The New Central may be as generic as its salaryman clientele, but the homey communal bath facilities (separate for men and women) make it stand out. The location on a quiet side street makes this a worthwhile base.

UENO Though it may be lacking the full-bore visual phantasmagoria and throbbing nightlife of Shinjuku and Shibuya, Ueno is a good base because of the Keisei Skyliner express trains running to Narita airport and the happy presence of Ueno Zoo (Ueno Dōbutsu-en), Ueno-kōen (park), an expansive smorgasbord of top-class museums, abundant cherry trees and a pond with paddleboats. Yanaka, which is perfect for temple walks, beckons to the north.

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RYOKAN KATSUTARŌ Business Hotel ¥¥

上野 ホテル パークサイド %3836-5711; www.parkside.co.jp; 2-11-18 Ueno, Taitō-ku; Western-style s/d from ¥9200/14,000, Japanese-style r from ¥18,000; bUeno (Shinobazu exit) This hotel offers some of the best midrange accommodation in Ueno, as well as views of the gigantic lily pads on Shinobazu Pond. Choose either a Western or Japanese room, but make sure it’s above the 4th floor for the best views. The doubles were remodelled in 2005.

This older, more homey sister inn to Ryokan Katsutarō Annex has a more quiet and family-like atmosphere, with very affable managers. Though the building may be aged, the seven tatami rooms here have been renovated without ruining the inn’s character.

Map p72 Business Hotel ¥¥

上野ファーストシティホテル %3831-8215; www.uenocity-hotel.com; 1-14-8 Ueno, Taitō-ku; s/d from ¥8400/13,650; bChiyoda Line to Yushima (exit 4)

SUIGETSU HOTEL ŌGAI-SŌ Business Hotel ¥¥

水月ホテル鴎外荘 %3822-4611; www.ohgai.co.jp; 3-3-21 Ikenohata, Taitō-ku; Western-style s/d ¥7980/11,550, Japanesestyle r from ¥18,000; bChiyoda Line to Nezu (exit 2); i Japanese literary great Mori Ōgai lived here in the late 1880s, and part of his lovely tiled wooden home still fronts the peaceful interior garden. Skip the cramped standard singles and go for the deluxe version instead, or sprawl out on tatami. The cypress baths are open to visitors for ¥1500.

Ryokan ¥

旅館澤の屋 %3822-2251; www.sawanoya.com; 2-3-11 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; s/d from ¥5040/10,080; bChi yoda Line to Nezu (exit 1); i The Sawanoya is a budget gem in quiet Yanaka, with very friendly staff and all the traditional hospitality you would expect of a ryokan, even origami paper cranes perched on your futon pillow in welcome. The shared cypress and earthenware baths are the perfect balm after a long day of walking.

SUZUKI RYOKAN Map p72

Ryokan ¥

旅館鈴木 %3821-4944; www.itcj.jp; 7-15-23 Yanaka, Taitōku; s without bath from ¥3500, d with bath ¥8000; bJR Yamanote Line to Nippori (south exit) www.itcj.jp This traditional but quirky house next to Yanaka Cemetery is weirdly charming, with green AstroTurf-like carpets and creaky stairs. Make reservations through the Welcome Inn Reservation Center (www.itcj.k), unless you speak enough Japanese to call the ryokan yourself.

RYOKAN KATSUTARŌ ANNEX Map p72

Ryokan ¥

アネックス勝太郎旅館 %3828-2500; www.katsutaro.com; 3-8-4 Yanaka, Taitō-ku; s/d ¥6300/10,500; bChiyoda Line to Sendagi (exit 2); i Opened in 2001, this spotless, efficient establishment seems more modern hotel than traditional ryokan. Though far from Ueno Station, it’s ideal for exploring the old Yanaka district. The 17 tatami rooms, while rather small, have attached Western bathrooms.

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ASAKUSA If you are in Tokyo only for a short visit or if you want a glimpse of old Japan, Asakusa is a charming, laid-back anachronism with some good budget options. Though not the geographical centre of Tokyo, it is the heart of the old Shitamachi downtown quarter, which was depicted in the millions of ukiyo-e (wood-block prints) that were pressed here. You will also find two wonderful, classic ryokan near Sensō-ji.

CHEAP SLEEPS IN SANYA Sanya is an old neighbourhood north of Asakusa notorious for its down-and-out day labourers. The 2002 Japan-Korea World Cup saw many budget travellers seeking accommodation here, and now there’s a wealth of cheap places to bunk. However, most ‘rooms’ are barely large enough to stretch out in. Hotel Accela (ホテルアクセラ; Map pp48–9; %3871-5568; www.accela.co.jp, in Japanese; 1-40-12 Nihonzutsumi, Taitō-ku; r ¥3350-4800; bHibiya Line to Minami-Senju, south exit) This hotel, newly opened in 2007, is a tad institutional, but friendly and bright, with three-tatami-mat rooms, coin-operated showers and laundry, and a spacious shared bath. It’s just past Namidabashi Crossing on the right. Juyoh Hotel (ホテル寿陽; Map pp48–9; %3875-5362; www.juyoh.co.jp; 2-15-3 Kiyokawa, Taitō-ku; s/d ¥3200/6400; bHibiya Line to Minami-Senju, south exit) The three tiny doubles and numerous three-tatami-mat singles fill up fast at this hospitable little spot. For reservations and directions, check the excellent website. Hotel New Azuma (ホテルニューあづま; Map pp48–9; %6802-0716; www.gcc-web.net/azuma; 2-38-3 Kiyokawa, Taitō-ku; r ¥2900-3100; bHibiya Line to Minami-Senju, south exit) Warm and quieter than other budget spots, the New Azuma has small tatami rooms, free internet access, laundry facilities and a shared bath and kitchen. Hotel New Kōyō (ホテルニュー紅陽; Map pp48–9; %3873-0343; www.newkoyo.com; 2-26-13 Nihonzutsumi, Taitō-ku; r ¥2500-4800; bHibiya Line to Minowa, exit 3) Very friendly and featuring some of Tokyo’s cheapest rooms, the New Koyo has rooms like the golden, minute Samurai Suite, about the size of two tatami mats, and a large shared bath. Tokyo Backpackers (東京バックパッカーズ; Map pp48–9; %3871-2789; www.tokyo-backpackers.jp; 2-2-2 Nihonzutsumi, Taitō-ku; d ¥2100; bHibiya Line to Minami-Senju, south exit) Even though it was built in 2006, Tokyo Backpackers is still dirt-cheap. Modern, clean dorm rooms have six wooden bunk beds, and there is free internet and a ladies-only floor. The entire shuts from 11am-4pm daily for cleaning.

ASAKUSA VIEW HOTEL Map p86

Luxury Hotel ¥¥

浅草ビューホテル %3847-1111; www.viewhotels.co.jp/asakusa/eng lish; 3-17-1 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; Western-style s/d from ¥15,000/29,400; bTsukuba Express Line to Asakusa (hotel exit) or Ginza Line to Tawaramachi (exit 3);s If you’re not into ryokan, the Asakusa View is the ritziest Western-style hotel around. From the lacquer-patterned elevator walls to the cypress and granite baths, the hotel is lavishly designed. While the spacious rooms aren’t striking, large windows overlook Sensō-ji.

SUKEROKU NO YADO SADACHIYO Map p86

tional baths), one made of fragrant Japanese cypress and the other of black marble. Look for the rickshaw parked outside.

RYOKAN SHIGETSU Map p86

Ryokan ¥¥

SLEEPING ASAKUSA

SLEEPING ASAKUSA

Unlike most hotels, the tatami rooms here are the same price as the Western rooms. Rooms of both types are functional and clean. Look for a charming little Shintō shrine by the entrance dedicated to the god Inari.

Map p72

Ryokan ¥

旅館勝太郎 %3821-9808; www.katsutaro.com; 4-16-8 Ikenohata, Taitō-ku; s/d ¥5200/8400; bChiyoda Line to Nezu (exit 2); i

SAWANOYA RYOKAN UENO FIRST CITY HOTEL Map p72

Map p72

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HOTEL PARKSIDE Map p72

旅館指月 %3843-2345; www.shigetsu.com; 1-31-11 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; Western-style r ¥7665-14,700, Japanese-style s/d ¥9450/16,800; bToei Asakusa or Toei Ōedo Line to Asakusa (exit 1) or Tsukuba Express to Asakusa (exit 4) South of Sensō-ji, this spotless and atmospheric ryokan has mostly Japanese-style rooms. The entire inn is immaculate, with carpeted entrance halls and shōji-screened doors and windows. Absolutely required is taking at least one bath here.

Ryokan ¥¥

助六の宿 貞千代 %3842-6431; www.sadachiyo.co.jp; 2-20-1 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; s/d ¥14,000/19,000; bGinza or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit 1), or Tsukuba Express Line to Asakusa (exit 1) This stunning ryokan virtually transports its guests to old Edo. Gorgeously maintained tatami rooms are spacious for two people, and all come with modern, Western-style bathrooms. Splurge on an exquisite meal here, and make time for the o-furo (tradi-

CAPSULE HOTEL RIVERSIDE Map p86

Capsule Hotel ¥

カプセルホテルあさくさリバーサイド %3844-1155; www.asakusa-capsule.jp; 2-20-4 Kaminarimon, Taitō-ku; capsules ¥3000; bGinza or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit 6) The very clean Riverside sells an encapsulated night’s sleep right by the river. Unlike most capsule hotels, it accepts both women and men, with the 8th floor reserved for female guests only.

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Ryokan ¥

東京旅館 %090-8879-3599; www.tokyoryokan.com; 2-4-8 Nishi-Asakusa, Taitō-ku; per person ¥3000; bGinza Line to Tawaramachi (exit 3); i This tidy little inn, opened in 2006, has only three tatami rooms but tons of charm. There are touches of calligraphy, attractive woodwork and sliding screens. This is an authentic ryokan experience on the cheap.

SAKURA HOSTEL Map p86

Hostel ¥

サクラホステル %3847-8111; www.sakura-hostel.co.jp; 2-24-2 Asakusa, Taitō-ku; dm/tw ¥2940/8295; bTsukuba Express Line to Asakusa (exit A1); i Billed as the largest in Tokyo, this new hostel in a modern, comfortable building has helpful staff and a great location near Sensō-ji. Rooms with wooden bunks overlook the aged Hanayashiki amusement park. There’s no curfew, breakfast is only ¥315 and major credit cards are accepted. Check out the old-time shopping arcade behind it. Hostel ¥

ケイズハウス %5833-0555; http://kshouse.jp; 3-20-10 Kuramae, Taitō-ku; dm/d ¥2800/3400; bToei Ōedo or Tōei Asakusa Line to Kuramae (exits A2 & A6); i This is a homey, modern hostel that opened in 2006, quickly becoming a backpacker favourite. Just steps from the Sumida River and Sensō-ji, K’s feels more like someone’s apartment, with comfy sofas in the living room and a tatami common space.

HOTEL ŌKURA Map p92

Map p86

Hostel ¥

カオサン東京ゲストハウス %3842-8286; www.khaosan-tokyo.com; 2-1-5 Kaminarimon, Taitō-ku; dm/tw ¥2200/5000; bGinza or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exits 4 & A2b); i If you’re visiting during the summer fireworks season in late July, this comfy hostel’s rooftop terrace is a front-row seat for the popular river spectacle. But you’ll get a warm welcome at all times of the year here, one of the cheapest spots in central Tokyo.

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

ホテルオークラ東京 %3582-0111; http://tokyo.okura.com; 2-10-4 Toranomon, Minato-ku; s/d from ¥34,125/42,000; bGinza Line to Toranomon (exit 3); i The Ōkura is an old-fashioned, elegant standby and the meeting place of Japan’s political and business elite. Lovely and lived-in, the 1960s décor and low-lying architecture are matched by personable staff. The beautiful Japanese garden and top-notch restaurants complete the picture.

Map p92

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

ANAインターコンチネンタルホテル東 京 %3505-1111; www.anaintercontinental -tokyo.jp; 1-12-33 Akasaka, Minato-ku; s/d from ¥22,100/36,750; bGinza Line to Tameike-sannō, (exit 13), or Namboku Line to Roppongi-itchōme (exit 3); is A short walk from Roppongi, the plush 37-storey ANA Intercontinental has large, gorgeously designed rooms with LCD screens and fantastic night views. With an outdoor pool, a small gym and an excellent business centre, this remains a sleek and sophisticated choice.

Business Hotel ¥¥

ホテル アバンシェル赤坂 %3568-3456; www.avanshell.com, in Japanese; 2-14-14 Akasaka, Minato-ku; s/d ¥15,750/19,950; bChiyoda Line to Akasaka (exit 2 & 5) The rooms in this beautifully designed 2004 high-rise are laid out under themes such as ‘zen’ and ‘primo’, with zippy décor ranging from black leather couches and puffy white bedspreads to cool green tatami spaces. It’s a visually appealing cut above most business hotels.

ASIA CENTER OF JAPAN

AKASAKA Who knows how many behind-the-scenes political deals have been made in the hushed rooms of Akasaka’s luxury hotels. This neighbourhood is pretty exclusive and geared to

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VILLA FONTAINE ROPPONGI ANNEX

party people of all stripes, Roppongi is hardly typical of Tokyo. It’s great for clubbing and bar hopping, but the area is a bit of a human zoo and accommodation is relatively pricey. But there are a few excellent midrange hotels handily placed close to Roppongi Crossing, in addition to the more upscale choices nearby.

ホテルヴィラフォンテーヌ六本木アネ ックス %3560-5550; www.hvf.jp/eng/roppongi_annex .php; 3-2-7 Roppongi, Minato-ku; s/d from ¥9500/12,000; bNamboku Line to Roppongi Ichōme (exit 1) or Hibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 5)

Map pp96–7

Map p92

Business Hotel ¥¥

ホテル アジア会館 %3402-6111; www.asiacenter.or.jp; 8-10-32 Akasaka, Minato-ku; s/d from ¥8200/10,800; bGinza, Hanzōmon or Toei Ōedo Line to Aoyama-itchōme (exit 4); i

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

グランド ハイアット 東京 %4333-1234; www.grandhyatttokyo.com; 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku; s/d from ¥50,400/55,650; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exits 1c & 3); is Architecturally open and bright despite its somewhat labyrinthine layout, the Grand Hyatt is warmly, gorgeously chic. Smooth mahogany and natural fabrics give an organic flavour to the rooms, while its Roppongi Hills location imbues it with vibrant energy. Even the bathrooms feature rainshower fixtures and rough-cut stone, continuing a nature-in-architecture motif.

HOTEL IBIS Map pp96–7 HOTEL AVANSHELL AKASAKA

heavy sleepers. The room décor is simple and beds are on the hard side, but even standard singles are furnished with semidouble beds (which are wider than normal single beds).

ROPPONGI With its high concentration of foreigners and

GRAND HYATT TOKYO ANA INTERCONTINENTAL TOKYO

Map p92

KHAOSAN GUESTHOUSE

The Asia Center covers the basics of a business hotel – the décor is generic and forgettable but the rooms are decently sized and staff are old hands at helping foreign visitors.

Business Hotel ¥¥

ホテルアイビス六本木 %3403-4411; www.ibis-hotel.com; 7-14-4 Roppongi, Minato-ku; s/d from ¥13,382/16,285; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 4a); i Ideally placed for those who want to be close to Roppongi nightlife, the Ibis is a comfortable spot to settle in after a night of debauchery. The singles are somewhat cramped, so go for the semi-doubles (¥16,023). Lighter sleepers should request a quiet room not facing the back.

ARCA TORRE Map pp96–7

Business Hotel ¥¥

ホテルアルカトーレ六本木 %3404-5111; www.arktower.co.jp/arcatorre /en/; 6-1-23 Roppongi, Minato-ku; s/d from ¥11,550/14,700; bHibiya or Toei Ōedo Line to Roppongi (exit 3) Steps away from the Almond café, Roppongi’s best-known meeting spot, the cosy Arca Torre is made for hard partiers and

Map pp96–7

Business Hotel ¥¥

Stylish, modern and reasonably priced, the new Roppongi Annex offers 140cm-wide beds, a complimentary buffet breakfast and free LAN access if you’re lugging a PC. It’s close enough to Roppongi’s centre to experience its madness, but far enough away for a quiet sleep.

EBISU Just up the JR Yamanote Line from Shibuya, Ebisu is a quieter neighbourhood that lacks the flair of the larger, neon-fringed hubs, but it still draws crowds for its pubs, restaurants and the Ebisu Garden Place shopping complex.

WESTIN HOTEL TOKYO Map p102

SLEEPING ROPPONGI

SLEEPING AKASAKA

K’S HOUSE Map p86

salarymen, though you’ll see a few functional, but not outstanding, options in the midrange bracket listed here.

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

TOKYO RYOKAN Map p86

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

ウェスティンホテル東京 %5423-7000; www.westin-tokyo.co.jp/; 1-4-1 Mita, Meguro-ku; r from ¥57,750; bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (Atré exit); i The remodelled Westin is one of the finest hotels in Japan, and plays host to royals, celebs and business moguls from around the world. Rooms are opulent but tasteful, with a lovely, laid-back European panache, and the clientele is grown-up but hip. The hotel’s Spa Parisien is a large, sumptuous sanctuary that can quickly melt all your stress. From the station, take the Skywalk to Ebisu Garden Place and head towards the road round back.

SHIBUYA Clustered around heavily crowded Shibuya Station and the streets spoking away from it are a variety of great midrange and highend hotels. Naturally enough, it’s still the neighbourhood where visiting rock stars put

211

CERULEAN TOWER TŌKYŪ HOTEL Map p106

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

セルリアンタワー東急ホテル %3476-3000; www.ceruleantower-hotel.com /en/; 26-1 Sakuragaokachō, Shibuya-ku; s/d from ¥30,607/41,580, Japanese-style s/d ¥75,075/77,385; bShibuya (south exit) Sprawl out on the huge beds and drink deeply of the big views, because there’s room to breathe in these enormous rooms. The sleek lobby looks out on a charming rock garden, an organic complement to the sleek modern aesthetic. Quality nō (dancedrama) occasionally takes place at the in-house theatre, and jazz club JZ Brat has lots of live shows (p189).

EXCEL TOKYU HOTEL Map p106

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

This tower, right beside Shibuya Station, boasts excellent night views of Tokyo. Singles are spacious if bland, but at least you’re right on top of the action. There’s a very comfortable high-ceilinged lounge here, as well as 25th-floor restaurants with terrific skyline panoramas.

ARIMAX HOTEL Map p106

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

アリマックスホテル %5454-1122; www.arimaxhotelshibuya.co.jp, in Japanese; 11-15 Kamiyamachō, Shibuya-ku; s/d from ¥22,145/27,920; bShibuya (Hachikō exit) This plush little corner of European pomp is on a quiet shopping street. Neoclassical furnishings arranged in the lobby and its 23room scale create its intimate atmosphere. Check out the wainscotted, old-school bar, perfect for a Scotch after a long day.

CRESTON HOTEL Map p106

Business Hotel ¥¥

ホテルクレストン %3481-5800; www.crestonhotel.co.jp/shibuya/, in Japanese; 10-8 Kamiyamachō, Shibuya-ku; s/d from ¥15,115/22,145; bShibuya (Hachikō exit) Unassumingly chic and central to Shibuya without being in the middle of the party scene, the Creston has a laid-back, classy

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NATIONAL CHILDREN’S CASTLE HOTEL Map p110 Business Hotel ¥¥

SHIBUYA TŌKYŪ INN Map p106

Business Hotel ¥¥

渋谷東急イン %3498-0109; www.tokyuhotels.co.jp/en/; 1-2410 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; s/d from ¥14,910/23,100; bShibuya (east exit); i This chain hotel has some style thanks to recent renovation, with clean lines and sliding window screens in primary shades. Spacious singles are a superb deal, and come with a modern work desk and a flatscreen TV.

SHIBUYA TŌBU HOTEL Map p106

Roll into the smooth marble and woodtrimmed lobby to be greeted by a more airy, stylish atmosphere than at average business hotels. It’s worth spending more for the nicer singles, which have bigger, more comfortable semi-double beds.

HOTEL METS SHIBUYA Business Hotel ¥¥

ホテルメッツ渋谷 %3409-0011; www.hotelmets.jp/shibuya; 3-2917 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; s/d from ¥11,000/18,000, wheelchair-accessible r ¥19,000; bShibuya (new south exit); i Superconvenient and squarely comfortable, the Hotel Mets is inside Shibuya Station’s quiet new south exit. It’s worth laying out the extra ¥500 for a roomier deluxe single. Rates include free broadband internet and the rarity of a free buffet breakfast.

SHIBUYA CITY HOTEL Map p106

こどもの城ホテル %3797-5677; www.kodomono-shiro.or.jp/english /hotel; 5-53-1 Jingūmae, Shibuya-ku; Westernstyle s/d ¥7455/11,340, Japanese-style r from ¥31,500; bShibuya (east exit), or Ginza Line to Omotesandō (exit B2); is Though you may be disappointed to learn that it’s not actually a castle, this small, uber-child-friendly hotel is perfect for families. Rooms are spiffy and clean, with fine views. The ‘castle’ itself is a paradise of play, with art projects, a swimming pool, puppet shows and endless amusements (see p71).

Business Hotel ¥¥

渋谷東武ホテル %3476-0111; www.tobuhotel.co.jp/shibuya, in Japanese; 3-1 Udagawachō, Shibuya-ku; s/d from ¥13,960/19,635; bShibuya (Hachikō exit); i

Map p106

has spacious but simple rooms, a superb location and even a tricked-out wheelchairfriendly room.

Business Hotel ¥¥

渋谷シティホテル %5489-1010; www.shibuya-city-hotel.com, in Japanese; 1-1 Maruyamachō, Shibuya-ku; s/d from ¥9450/18,900, wheelchair-accessible r ¥14,800; bShibuya (Hachikō exit); This place is in the Love Hotel district, where couples seek intimacy, but it’s not seedy. It’s a short downhill roll from loads of good live-music venues and clubs. It

CAPSULE LAND SHIBUYA Map p106

Capsule Hotel ¥

カプセルランド渋谷 %3464-1777; www.capsule-land.com/shibuya/ sinfo.html, in Japanese; 1-19-14 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; capsules from ¥3700; bShibuya (Hachikō exit) This is a standard capsule hotel for men only perched atop Dōgenzaka hill. Extras include large shared baths, massage chairs, laundry machines and coin lockers. It’s a clean, well-run place, and major credit cards are accepted.

SHINJUKU If you have only a day in Tokyo and want the full-bore hyper-Japan experience, stay in this nonstop whirlwind of neon, crowds, pachinko parlours and hostess clubs. East and west Shinjuku are different worlds when it comes to accommodation. The west has the lion’s share of luxury hotels, while the east generally offers the better deal and the more central location. Capsule hotels and manga cafés (p207) provide alternative accommodation.

PARK HYATT TOKYO Map p116

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

パークハイアット東京 %5322-1234; http://tokyo.park.hyatt.com; 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; r/ste from ¥55,650/68,250; bToei Ōedo Line to Tochōmae (exit A4) The setting will look familiar, as it was the backdrop for the film Lost in Translation.

Views are stunning, day and night, and appear to be part of another world from these serene heights. Dignified but relaxed, the stylishly understated rooms are done in naturally finished wood, fabric and marble. Staff are gracefully, discretely attentive and the restaurants are some of Tokyo’s best – check out the stunning views from the toplevel New York Grill.

HYATT REGENCY TOKYO Map p116

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

ハイアットリージェンシー東京 %3348-1234; www.hyattregencytokyo.com; 2-7-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; s/d from ¥26,670/29,820; bToei Ōedo Line to Tochōmae (exits A7 & C4); is This marble behemoth holds its own as one of Shinjuku’s best high-end options. Always housing a healthy population of international businesspeople, the Hyatt Regency has swank, new ‘Regency Club’ rooms and lounges. Other rooms are being renovated, but all offer excellent views of Shinjuku and, if you’re lucky, Mt Fuji.

KEIŌ PLAZA HOTEL Map p116

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

京王プラザホテル %3344-0111; www.keioplaza.com; 2-2-1 NishiShinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; Western-style s/d from ¥22,000/26,000, Japanese ste from ¥80,000; bToei Ōedo Line to Tochōmae (exit B1); is

SLEEPING SHINJUKU

SLEEPING SHIBUYA

エクセルホテル東急 %5457-0109; www.tokyuhotelsjapan.com /en/; 1-12-2 Dōgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; s/d from ¥24,255/34,650; bShibuya, exit for Shibuya Mark City; i

ambience plus an excellent tofu restaurant. It’s in an alley that won’t get much pedestrian traffic but gives easy access to Shibuya’s nightlife.

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

up camp after a big show at NHK Hall or a smaller gig at one of Shibuya’s myriad livemusic houses.

The 47-storey Keiō Plaza has a mix of remodelled and older rooms. Updated ones feature the cleaner lines of more modern luxury hotels, but all have excellent city views. With a helpful business centre and free high-speed internet in every room, it also caters to busy travellers.

HILTON TOKYO Map p116

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

ヒルトン東京 %3344-5111; www.hilton.com; 6-6-2 NishiShinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; r from ¥19,000; bMarunouchi Line to Nishi-Shinjuku (exit C8), or Toei Ōedo Line to Tochōmae (exit C8); is The Hilton covers all the bases. Comforts like firm mattresses and full-sized bathtubs are complemented by aesthetically pleasing elements like shōji over the windows. A warren of shops, restaurants and bars lies downstairs, and stressed-out professionals can work it off in the indoor heated pool, tennis courts or gym.

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Map p116

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

新宿プリンスホテル %3205-1111; www.princehotels.co.jp /shinjuku-e; 1-30-1 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; s/d from ¥18,500/32,400; bShinjuku (west exit); i Right by Shinjuku Station and the Kabukichō nightlife, this towering wedge has a location that can’t be beat and snazzy rooms in mahogany and white that were renovated in 2006. Don’t let the faded lobby throw you – ask for an upper-floor room and enjoy some of the best views in the city.

HOTEL CENTURY SOUTHERN TOWER Map p116

Business Hotel ¥¥¥

ホテルセンチュリーサザンタワー %5354-0111; www.southerntower.co.jp /english; 2-2-1 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku; s/d from ¥16,000/24,000; bShinjuku (south & southern terrace exits); i

HOTEL SUNLITE SHINJUKU Map p116

Business Hotel ¥¥

ホテルサンライト新宿 %3356-0391; www.sunlite.co.jp/top-e.htm; 5-158 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; s/d from ¥8715/12,075; bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjukusanchōme (exit C7) Though the small rooms at the Sunlite are typical of lesser business hotels in its class, they’re well maintained and comfortable. Small details like triangular bay windows and trapezoid-shaped rooms lend a funky air to an otherwise ordinary place.

CITY HOTEL LONESTAR Map p116

Business Hotel ¥¥

シティホテルロンスター %3356-6511; www.thehotel.co.jp/en/lornstar/; 212-12 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; s/d from ¥7350/9450; bMarunouchi or Toei Shinjuku Line to Shinjukusanchōme (exit C8); i The City Hotel Lonestar is a friendly, updated place to bunk with rooms that are small but cheery. In the heart of Tokyo’s gay district, it is also known as the queerest lodging in the city. A basic continental breakfast is laid out in the mornings free of charge.

TOKYO BUSINESS HOTEL Map p116

Business Hotel ¥

東京ビジネスホテル %3356-4605; 6-3-2 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; s with shared bathroom from ¥5460, d with bathroom from ¥12,810; bMarunouchi Line to Shinjukugyōenmae (exit 1) This no-frills hotel off Meiji-dōri is an older building and very simple in terms of décor and amenities, but you get a fairly large communal bath and some eye-popping night views of the skyscrapers in west Shinjuku. Go for the larger Type B singles (¥6300).

GREEN PLAZA SHINJUKU Map p116

Capsule Hotel ¥

グリーンプラザ新宿 %3207-5411; www.hgpshinjuku.jp/hotel/, in Japanese; 1-29-2 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku; capsules from ¥4300; bShinjuku (east exit); i Smack in the middle of sleazy Kabukichō, Green Plaza Shinjuku offers 630 standardissue capsules for men only. However, the ladies’ sauna on the 9th floor allows women to check in for the night (¥3400).

SHINJUKU PARK HOTEL Map p116

Business Hotel ¥¥

新宿パークホテル %3356-0241; http://shinjukuparkhotel .co.jp; 5-27-9 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku; s/d from ¥7900/13,800, Japanese-style r ¥24,800; bShinjuku (new south exit) The low-key Park Hotel is a serviceable base on busy Meiji-dōri and has park views (be sure to request one) in addition to being close to several nearby shopping megaliths. The Japanese-style rooms here

214

IKEBUKURO Ikebukuro lacks the charm of other busy neighbourhoods in Tokyo and often seems like a poor cousin to Shinjuku. There are many cheap hotels here, but the trick is to avoid the flea pits in favour of spots near the station for quick access to more happening ’hoods. Takadanobaba is a student zone to the south with lots of great ethnic restaurants.

WORTH THE TRIP Though the bulk of Tokyo’s accommodation is located in the central neighbourhoods we’ve listed, those looking to get a bit further afield might seek out these options. Four Seasons Hotel Chinzan-sō (フォーシーズンズホテル 椿山荘; Map pp48–9; %3943-2222; www .fourseasons.com/tokyo/; 2-10-8 Sekiguchi, Bunkyō-ku; s/d from ¥50,000/55,000; bYūrakuchō Line to Edogawabashi, exit 1a) Ridiculously opulent with Japanese antiques and a European feel, the Four Seasons Chinzan-sō is built on the grounds of a Meiji-era ornamental garden. It abuts the Kanda-gawa canal, which is very pleasant during cherry blossom season. Hotel Bellclassic (ホテルベルクラシック; Map pp48–9; %5950-1200; www.hotel-bellclassic.co.jp; 3-36-6 Minami-Ōtsuka, Toshima-ku; s/d ¥14,700/23,100; bJR Yamanote Line to Ōtsuka, south exit) One stop from Ikebukuro, this churchy-looking business hotel has immaculate, plain-vanilla rooms that are a smidge wider than those at standard business hotels. Room rates go down in low season. Andon Ryokan (行燈旅館; Map pp48–9; %3873-8611; www.andon.co.jp; 2-34-10 Nihonzutsumi, Taitō-ku; r per person ¥8190; bHibiya Line to Minowa, exit 3; i) Fabulously designed in form and function, the minimalist and modern Andon Ryokan has tiny but immaculate tatami rooms. Pluses include free internet access, DVD players, cheap breakfasts and laundry facilities. This gem is run by the same people who established the more down-market New Koyo (p209). Ryokan Sansuisō (旅館山水荘; Map pp48–9; %3441-7475; www.sansuiso.net; 2-9-5 Higashi-Gotanda, Shinagawa-ku; s/d from ¥4900/8600; bJR Yamanote Line to Gotanda, east exit) This sweet, seven-room ryokan gets a bit of rail noise from the JR tracks nearby, but with that comes the experience of staying in a real Japanese home.

CROWNE PLAZA METROPOLITAN HOTEL Map p122 Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥ ホテルメトロポリタン %3980-1111; www.metropolitan.jp; 1-6-1 NishiIkebukuro, Toshima-ku; s/d from ¥18,000/24,000; bIkebukuro (west exit);i The commodious rooms here, being renovated at the time of writing, make it a worthwhile high-end hotel. Upgraded rooms have a clean, modern look.

bIkebukuro (west exit), or Yūrakuchō Line to Ikebukuro (exit C5); i Renovated and renamed in 2005, the Strix has some very appealing, modern rooms with wide beds, cosy couches and spacious bathrooms. High-speed internet is available in all rooms. Navigate towards its tealcoloured roof; it’s just steps from the C5 subway station exit.

SLEEPING IKEBUKURO

SLEEPING IKEBUKURO

This is one of the best deals for accommodation in Shinjuku. With winter views of Mt Fuji possible from one side and the green space of Shinjuku-gyōen on the other, this monolith is very reasonably priced for its central location.

are a steal, and the regular rooms, although staid and small, are comfortable.

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels

SHINJUKU PRINCE HOTEL

HOTEL SUNROUTE TAKADANOBABA SUNSHINE CITY PRINCE HOTEL Map p122

Luxury Hotel ¥¥¥

サンシャインシティプリンスホテル %3988-1111; www.princehotels.co.jp/sunshine; 3-1-5 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; s/d from ¥17,400/23,100, Japanese-style r ¥169,300; bIkebukuro (east exit);i Right on the Sunshine City mall complex and close to the manga shops on Otome Rd, this 1,166-room landmark has superb views of Tokyo, even if the singles are cramped and the décor evokes vintage Laura Ashley. This is a decent alternative if you want to spend time exploring Sunshine City.

HOTEL STRIX TOKYO Map p122

Business Hotel ¥¥

ホテルストリックス東京 %5396-0111; www.strix.jp, in Japanese; 2-3-1 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; s/d from ¥15,000/20,000;

Map p122

Business Hotel ¥¥

ホテルサンルート高田馬場 %3232-0101; www.sunroutehotel.jp/takada nobaba; 1-27-7 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; s/d from ¥9500/16,800; bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba (Waseda-dōri exit); i Renovated in 2005, the Sunroute is clean and no-nonsense. High-speed internet access is zapped into all of the blandly comfortable, small rooms, and the place is surprisingly quiet for a neighbourhood buzzing with students.

TOYOKO INN KITA-GUCHI NO. 1 Map p122

Business Hotel ¥¥

東横イン %5960-1045; www.toyoko-inn.com/eng; 2-50-5 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; s/d ¥6800/8800; bIkebukuro (north exit); i The Toyoko Inn Kita-guchi No. 1 (there’s another nearby) is one of the most appealing

215

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choices of the standard business hotels here. Rooms are tidy, if tiny, and Japanese rooms with tatami mats are available. It even throws in a simple Japanese breakfast.

HOUSE IKEBUKURO Map p122

Ryokan ¥

池袋之家 %3984-3399; www.housejp.com.tw; 2-20-1 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; r ¥5000-12,000; bIkebukuro (west exit), or Marunouchi or Yūrakuchō Line to Ikebukuro (exit C1); i Spotless tatami rooms are the rule at House Ikebukuro, a rather institutional but very clean place run by Taiwanese and catering mainly to Asian backpackers. It’s a busy, well-run establishment, often fully booked. All singles share bathrooms, but some doubles have private ones.

KIMI RYOKAN Map p122

Ryokan ¥

貴美旅館 %3971-3766; www.kimi-ryokan.jp; 2-36-8 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku; s ¥4500, d ¥6500-7500; bIkebukuro (west exit);i

Easily one of the best budget ryokan in Tokyo, this convivial inn provides a welcoming base for travellers discovering the city. The friendly proprietor’s ikebana works adorn the rooms. Fragrant tatami rooms are small but not cramped, and the large, wood-floored lounge area is a comfortable place to meet fellow travellers over green tea. Clean showers and toilets are shared, and there’s a lovely Japanese cypress bath. Book well in advance.

TAMA RYOKAN Map p122

Ryokan ¥

多摩旅館 %3209-8062; www.tamaryokan.com; 1-25-33 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku; s/d ¥4500/8000; bJR Yamanote Line to Takadanobaba (Waseda-dōri exit) Four traditional tatami rooms fill out the second floor of this older private home, kept by a sweet couple. The ryokan is up a small alley – look for the Starbucks to the right of it on the road. While it lacks a traditional bath, there’s a local sentō located nearby.

SLEEPING IKEBUKURO

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E XCU R S I O N S

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walled inn at Hōshi Onsen, take the Jōetsu shinkansen from Tokyo Station to the JōmōKōgen Station (¥5240, 75 minutes). From there, take the bus for Sarugakyō Onsen (30 minutes). At the last stop, take another bus for Hoshi Onsen (25 minutes). Try to arrive around noon to sample the inn’s mountainvegetable steamed rice. Women can sneak into the (far superior) men’s bath here. In fact, it’s almost expected.

Shibukawa

To Sendai Kita-Ibaraki (263km)

Yaita

Utsunomiya

TOCHIGIKEN

Ro

%0273-85-6634; www.houshi-onsen.jp in Japanese; 650 Nagai, Niiharu-mura) To get to this gorgeous, wood-

TŸbu-NikkŸ Line

ry

Tokyo, utilising the shinkansen (bullet train) to get out of the city as swiftly as possible. In most of the destinations that follow, there are onsen listings, so if you’re off to Nikkō (p225) or Hakone (p228) for a day or two, you can certainly get your feet (and more) wet. But the star in the Kantō area hot-spring firmament is Gunma-ken, where water bubbles out of the ground wherever you poke a stick into it. Get to Gunma from Ueno Station in Tokyo via Takasaki (shinkansen ¥4600, one hour; tokkyū ¥3700, 80 minutes; futsū ¥1890, 110 minutes) and Jōmō-Kōgen Stations (shinkansen ¥5550, 75 minutes) on the Jōetsu shinkansen line, or via Maebashi (tokkyū ¥3190, 100 minutes; futsū ¥1890, two hours) on the Ryōmō Line, and Shibukawa (tokkyū ¥3510, 105 minutes; futsū ¥2210, 2¼ hours) on the Agatsuma Line. The following Gunma onsen are highly recommended and within a day’s journey via shinkansen. Higaeri onsen (bathing without accommodation) generally runs from ¥700 to ¥2000. Chōjūkan Inn (法師温泉長寿館 ; Map p219;

no-taki

Fer

218

Hot springs heaven, here we come! Getting naked with total strangers is not, for most of us, the cultural norm, and those not from Japan often feel self-conscious at first. But shy gaijin (foreigners) should know that the Japanese perceive bathing as a great social leveller; all revel in the anonymity that nudity allows. The baths themselves come in as many different shapes and sizes as the customers, varying from the deluxe to the primitive. Essentially, you will either visit solely for an o-furo (traditional Japanese bath, which translates literally as the ‘honourable bath’) or stay at an onsen ryokan (traditional hot-spring inn) to enjoy good food, copious amounts of alcohol, karaoke and a soak in the establishment’s private baths, which may be located either indoors or outside. Ryokan will often allow you to have a soak even if you aren’t staying there (ask for ofuro-nomi or higaerionsen), although late-night privileges are often reserved for guests. This is an excellent and affordable way to experience some beautiful, traditional baths. Unfortunately, bathing is also big business and rampant commercialism has marred many once-lovely onsen. There are two excellent books devoted to Onsen: A Guide to Japanese Hot Springs by Anne Hotta and Yoko Ishiguro, and Japan’s Hidden Hot Springs by Robert Neff. Both are worth seeking out for anyone looking to onsen-hop their way through Tokyo’s outlying onsen resorts. Holders of the JR Pass can use JR lines to hop to hot springs far afield from

JŸetsu Shinkansen

ONSEN

a n am s e A s kan in Sh

Step outside Tokyo for a breath of fresh air, and you will encounter a whole different world from the nonstop super-bustle of the capital. Located just an hour or two by train are soothing onsen (mineral hot springs) in natural settings, refreshing mountain hikes and walks, and a few decent beaches on the Pacific. If you have got the time and a yen for careful planning, you will be able do all three in one trip. Plus, there are the must-see tourist destinations of Nikkô and Kamakura, as well as the hot springs of Hakone and the Izu-hantô peninsula near breathtaking Mt Fuji. The first two, rich in gorgeous temples and shrines, are particularly worth seeing if you don’t have time to jump on a shinkansen (bullet train) to see the splendid architecture of Kyoto and Nara near Osaka. Thanks to Japan’s unsurpassed public transport infrastructure, sightseeing in the Kantô area around Tokyo is easy, quick and very much worth the time. Places listed in this chapter can be visited as day trips, although if you’re planning on being in Tokyo for a week or more, an overnight stay can make these excursions infinitely more relaxing, especially if it’s at a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn).

JŸmŸ-KŸgen ChŸj¥kan Inn JŸshin-etsu-kŸgen National Park Shiriyaki Onsen Agatsuma Line Kusatsu NaganoharaOnsen Ikaho Kusatsuguchi GUNMA-KEN Onsen Ueda Mt Haruna (1449 m) Karuizawa Komoro 18 JŸshin -etsu Saku Exp wy

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To Joetsu (30km)

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KŸzu-shima

Miyake-jima

Mikura-jima

0 0

50 km 30 miles

Prefectural Boundary

HachijŸ-jima

To Ogasawara (800km)

HIKING

The mountains surrounding Tokyo offer exquisite hiking and walking trails through quiet forests of lofty Japanese cedars, around waterfalls and lakes. Such activities can often be planned with a soak in the local onsen with

220

over the Tama River just before the trailhead going to Nokogiri-yama (鋸山, 1109m). This moderate climb continues to Ōdake-san (大 岳山, 1267m), which has superb vistas, and then down to Mitake-san (929m), whose charming mountaintop village is home to the impressive Mitake-jinja Shrine and quaint minshuku (B&Bs). The hike takes three to five hours and there is a funicular (¥570, five minutes) leading down from Mitake to Takimoto, where buses run to Mitake Station on the Ōme Line. Otherwise it’s a pleasant 30-minute walk. Takao-san (高尾山), at only 599m, is a family-friendly sacred mountain south of Ōme that is an easy climb (or otherwise funicular ride, ¥470, six minutes) with a picturesque temple and shrine as well as a monkey park atop it. It is easily reached from Shinjuku on the Keiō Line to Takaosanguchi (jun-tokkyū ¥370, 53 minutes), but JR Rail Pass Holders can ride the JR Chūō Line for free to Takao Station (47 minutes) and then get on the Keiō Line to Takaosan-guchi (¥120, two minutes). From Takaosan-guchi Station, turn right and continue straight through the village to the funicular station (where English maps are available), passing it on the left and climbing to the top via the forested Inari-yama trail (稲荷山コース, 90 minutes). From the summit, you can try to spy Mt Fuji to the southwest and then pause for a snack at the noodle shops. If you have the time and energy, keep hiking westward following the signs to Shiro-yama (城山, 670m), a 45-minute trek away. There are refreshment facilities here, and then the trail dips down to Lake Sagami-ko (相模 湖, 60 to 90 minutes). Nearby JR Sagami-ko Station on the Chūō Line will bring you back to Shinjuku (¥950, one hour).

South of Tokyo

BEACHES

NIKKŌ 日光 An excellent day trip from Tokyo, Nikkō is

If you’re seeking sun but shunning crowds, don’t head for the beach on weekends and holidays when there’s a predictable inflow of city-dwellers (and their sometimes appalling penchant for littering). When school’s out for summer (mid-July through August), students will also be flocking to the shoreline. Surfers can find respectable waves along the Pacific coast of the Bōsō peninsula, in Chiba prefecture, and sunbathers will find decent beaches on both Bōsō-hantō and Izu-hantō. Be warned that many beaches have very strong rip currents.

Kamakura has its own beach at Zaimokuza and Enoshima Island (p233) and is best visited on a weekday when it’s less crowded. There are some lovely beaches near Shimoda (p234) on the Izu peninsula. Ten minutes north of town by bus, Shirahama (白浜) can see good surf, but if the tides are uncooperative the expansive, beautiful beach awaits your towel. Buses from Shimoda leave hourly (¥320). Ten minutes south of Shimoda are a string of lovely beaches, of which Iritahama (入田浜) and Kisami-Ōhama (吉佐美大浜) are favourites with surfers and sunbathers. Further around to the western side of the peninsula, Dōgashima (堂ヶ 島; p235) is another charming town.

East of Tokyo

Underrated and untainted by overdevelopment, the Bōsō peninsula boasts some of the best, mellow beaches near Tokyo. Onjuku (御 宿) is the nicest of those most easily accessed from Tokyo, with beachfront cafés, a laidback coastal vibe and lots of white sand and decent waves. South of Onjuku, Katsuura (勝 浦) and Kamogawa (鴨川) also get good swells. Wakashio trains (tokkyū, ¥3700, 80 minutes) to Onjuku Station depart from the southeast end of Tokyo Station on the JR Keiyō Line. About half the cost, but much slower, are the regular trains on the JR Sotobō Line. North of Onjuku, Kujūkuri-hama (九十九里 浜) has over 60km of smooth, sandy, sparsely populated beaches. To access them, take the JR Sotobō Line to Oami Station, transfer to the Tōgane Line, and disembark at Kujūkuri town. Frequent buses ply Kujūkuri-hama’s coastal towns, and you can hop off when you see a spot that appeals to you.

EXCURSIONS NIKKŌ

EXCURSIONS HIKING

views of Mt Haruna. To get there, take the Jōetsu Line from Takasaki to Shibukawa Station (futsū ¥400, 25 minutes), and then a local bus to the onsen (¥550, 20 minutes). There’s also a shuttle bus from the east exit of Takasaki Station to Ikaho Onsen Bus Terminal (¥1000, 55 minutes, three daily). Kusatsu Onsen (草津温泉; Map p219; www.kusatsu -onsen.ne.jp) This is a quintessential old-time onsen town. Take the Agatsuma Line from Takasaki to Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station (futsū ¥1110, 87 minutes), then a local bus to the onsen (¥670, 30 minutes). There is an express bus from Shinjuku Station New South Exit Bus Terminal (¥3200, four hours 15 minutes, nine daily). Minakami Onsen (水上温泉; Map p219; www.mina kami-onsen.com) This is a thriving onsen town that is often frequented by couples. If you’re not interested in a romantic rendezvous, you can white-water raft in the summer. To get there, take the Jōetsu Line from Takasaki to Minakami Station (tokkyū/futsū ¥2360/950, 54/64 minutes). From the station, the onsen is a pleasant 15-minute walk. Shiriyaki Onsen (尻焼温泉; Map p219) Very odd and primitive, literally, the ‘arse-burning’ hot spring, favourite of haemorrhoid sufferers of the Heike clan. At this onsen, you simply strip and climb into the river – though not during spring, when the river is high and the water quite cold. Bring a bentō (boxed lunch) as there are no food options in the area, and start out early. To get there, take the Agatsuma Line from Takasaki to Naganohara-Kusatsuguchi Station (futsū ¥1110, 87 minutes) where you can catch a local bus to Hanashiki Onsen (¥800, 30 minutes). From the bus stop, it’s a 10-minute walk. Takaragawa Onsen (宝川温泉; Map p219; www .takaragawa.com) Complete with river bathing, Takaragawa has oft been voted the nation’s best. To get there, take the Jōetsu Line from Takasaki to Minakami Station (tokkyū/futsū ¥2360/950, 54/64 minutes), where you will be able to catch a local bus to the onsen (¥1100, 35 minutes).

a cool nama-biiru (draught beer) afterwards. The region includes some of Japan’s most famous peaks like majestic Mt Fuji (see p228), but far easier and flatter walking paths abound. Trails can be reached by a train journey of one to two hours from hubs like Shinjuku, Ueno and Tokyo. One of the best English guidebooks is Lonely Planet’s Hiking in Japan; Tokyo’s foreigner-friendly International Adventure Club (www.iac-tokyo.org) organises regular hikes for hikers of all abilities as well as more challenging outings like ice climbing and snow camping. Be sure to bring enough water if you go, and stock up on snacks at a convenience store or supermarket as some rural train stations may have very little in terms of local shops and restaurants. Other items you should consider bringing include maps, sturdy footwear, a torch, a first aid kit and rain gear. It’s a good idea to drop by the tourist information office near the trailhead – if there is one – to get the latest information on routes, times, and weather and trail conditions. Ōme (青梅) is a quiet town along the Tama River in western Tokyo just outside ChichibuTama-Kai National Park. There’s a lovely, relaxing and quite flat trail through the hills behind Ōme Station (futsū from Shinjuku on the Chūō and Ōme lines ¥780, one hour) that runs parallel to the JR Ōme Line. To reach it, turn left once you exit the station and continue for a few blocks until you come to a road that crosses the railway over a small bridge to your left. Take another left here, follow the road around some tennis courts up to a park, where you’ll find a trailhead leading up on your right. This leads to the main westward trail, which you can continue on until signs for Futamatao Station (二俣 尾駅, about two hours), a few stops down the Ōme Line. Okutama (奥多摩) is at the terminus of the JR Ōme Line and a gateway to the trails in the Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park. Regular trains from Shinjuku run here daily with changes at Tachikawa and Ōme (¥1050, 110 minutes) but on weekends and holidays there are faster Okutama Holiday Express services in the morning (¥1050, 90 minutes). A great hike with an inspiring Shinto shrine at the end is from Okutama to Mitake-san (御岳 山, 929m). From Okutama Station, take a left past the tourist information centre (奥多摩観 光案内所; %0428-83-2152; 210 Hikawa, Okutamamachi;h8.30am-5pm), a good source for English maps and local information, and cross a bridge

lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com

Ikaho Onsen (伊香保温泉; Map p219; www.hotels -ikaho.or.jp, in Japanese) Great public bath with

one of Japan’s major tourist attractions due to the splendour of its shrines and temples, and the surrounding natural beauty. Nikkō can become extremely crowded, especially during spring and autumn foliage seasons. If it’s at all possible, it’s best to visit early on a weekday to avoid the crowds. Before you head to the shrine area either by bus or on foot, you may want to stop by the Tōbu Nikkō Station Information Centre (p225) or the Kyōdo Center Tourist Information office (p224) to give yourself the lay of the land.

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To Shimo-ima (7.5km); Utsunomiya (36km); Tokyo (115km)

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᧲ᱞᣣశ㚞ࠗࡦࡈࠜࡔ࡯ ࡚ࡦ࠮ࡦ࠲࡯ ............................................... 31 F4 Sokushin Centre ᣣశᏒ੤ᵹଦㅴ࠮ࡦ࠲࡯ .....................26 E2 i Ko

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TRANSPORT Bus Stop ࡃࠬ஗ ................................................ 28 C2

Turtle Inn Nikk ࠲࡯࠻࡞ࠗࡦᣣశ ....... 27 A3

EATIN G Takumi-chŸ 23

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To Ch¥zenji-ko (11.5km); Yumoto Onsen (23.5km)

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Nikkō’s history as a sacred site stretches back to the middle of the 8th century when the Buddhist priest Shōdō Shōnin established a hermitage here in 782. For many years it was known as a famous training centre for Buddhist monks, although after a time it declined into obscurity. Nikkō remained forgotten until it was chosen as the site for the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu (p224), the warlord who took control of all Japan and established the shōgunate that ruled for 250 years until Commodore Perry (p26) and his American ships arrived in Tokyo Bay, just in time to usher in the Meiji Restoration and the end of the feudal era. Tokugawa Ieyasu was laid to rest among Nikkō’s towering cedars in 1617, but it was his grandson Tokugawa Iemitsu who, in 1634, commenced work on the imposing shrine that can be seen today. The original shrine, Tōshōgū, was completely rebuilt using an army of 15,000 artisans from all over Japan. The work on the shrine and mausoleum took two years to complete, and the results continue to receive mixed reviews. Tōshō-gū was constructed as a memorial to a warlord who devoted his life to conquering Japan. Tokugawa Ieyasu was a man of considerable determination and was not above sacrificing a few scruples, or a few people, in order to achieve his aims. He is attributed with having had his wife and eldest son executed because it was politically expedient for him to do so. Interestingly, Tokugawa’s final resting place manages to reflect the imperiousness and the austerity of the powerful despot.

RINNŌ-JI 輪王寺

You can approach this ancient temple via Shin-kyō-bashi (a sacred bridge) leading to the Toshogu area. Shōdō Shōnin was reputedly carried across the river at this point on the backs of two huge serpents. Tourists not toted by reptiles can cross the bridge on foot. The

Hōmotsu-den (Treasure Hall; Rinnō-ji; admission ¥300; h8am-4pm), also in the temple grounds, has a

splendid collection of temple artefacts, sculptures and scrolls. Admission to Hōmotsu-den includes entry to the lovely Edo-period garden Shōyō-en.

TŌSHŌ-GŪ 東照宮

A huge stone torii (entrance gate to a Shintō shrine) marks the entrance to Tōshō-gū, while to the left is a five-storey pagoda. The pagoda dates from 1650 but, like so many structures destroyed by natural disasters, was reconstructed in 1818. The pagoda is remarkable for its lack of foundations – the interior contains a long suspended pole that apparently swings like a pendulum in order to maintain equilibrium during an earthquake. The true entrance to Tōshō-gū is through the torii at Omote-mon, which is protected on either side by the Deva kings. Through the entrance to the temple to the right is Sanjinko (Three Sacred Storehouses). The upper storey of this building is renowned for the imaginative relief carvings of elephants by an artist who had apparently never seen the real thing. To the left of the entrance is the Shinkyūsha (Sacred Stable), a suitably plain building housing a carved white horse. The stable’s only adornment is an allegorical series of relief carvings depicting the lifecycle of the monkey. They include the famous ‘hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil’ trio that is now emblematic of Nikkō and a favourite subject for shutterbugs. Once you’re finished taking in the stable, pass through another torii and climb another flight of stairs, and on the left and right you will see a drum tower and a belfry. To the left of the drum tower is Honji-dō, with its huge ceiling painting of a dragon in flight known as the Roaring Dragon. According to legend, the dragon will roar if you clap your hands beneath it. Next comes Yōmei-mon, whose interior is adorned with a multitude of reliefs of Chinese sages, children, dragons and other mythical

EXCURSIONS NIKKŌ

EXCURSIONS NIKKŌ

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Drum Tower 㥏ᭈ ................................................. 1 B1 Five-Storey Pagoda ੖㊀Ⴁ.............................. 2 B1 Futarasan-jinja ੑ⨹ጊ␹␠ ............................ 3 B1 Haiden ᜙Ლ ............................................................ 4 B1 Honden ᧄᲚ .......................................................... 5 B1 Hon -jinja ᧄች␹␠ .......................................6 C2 Honji-d ᧄ࿾ၴ ................................................... 7 B1 su-den ቲ‛Ლ......................................... 8 B2 ...... 9 B1 Ieyasu's Tomb ᅏ␠㧔ᓼᎹኅᐽߩჄ㧕 Ko ዊ᧖᡼ᐻ⸥ᔨᣣశ⟤ⴚ㙚 .................... 10 C2 Nemuri-neko ⌁₀............................................. 11 B1 Omote-mon ⴫㐷 .............................................. 12 B1 ベ₺ኹ .................................................. 13 B2 Sakashita-mon ဈਅ㐷 .................................... 14 B1 Sambutsu-d ਃ੽ၴ ................................... (see 13) Sanjinko ਃ␹ᐶ ................................................ 15 B1 Shinky ha ␹෡⥢ ........................................... 16 B1 en ㅖ㆔࿦...............................................(see 8) by ᄢ₉㒮ᑙ..................................... 17 A1 ᧲ᾖች............................................... 18 B1 mei-mon 㓁᣿㐷 .......................................... 19 B1

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Although you can buy separate tickets to each of Nikkō’s attractions, it makes sense to buy a combination ticket (¥1000), which is valid for two days. The ticket covers entry to Rinnō-ji and to Tōshō-gū and Futarasan-jinja. Most sights are open 8am to 5pm (until 4pm November to March).

next stop is 1200-year-old Rinnō-ji, also founded by Shōdō Shōnin of the Buddhist Tendai sect. On its grounds is Sambutsu-dō (Three Buddha Hall), which houses a trio of huge, remarkable gold-lacquered images: a senjū (1000-armed Kannon); the central image of Amida Nyorai; and Batō, a horse-headed goddess of mercy.

lonelyplanet.com

lonelyplanet.com

a In

NIKKŌ COMBINATION TICKET

223

Train The best way to visit Nikkō is via the Tōbu-Nikkō Line from Asakusa Station. The station is in the basement of the Tōbu department store (it’s well signposted from the subway). All seats are reserved on tokkyū trains (¥2740, 110 minutes), but you can usually get tickets and reservations just before setting out. Trains run every 30 minutes or so from 7.30am to 10am; hourly after 10am. Kaisoku trains (¥1320, 90 minutes, hourly from 6.20am to 4.30pm) require no reservation. (Note, passengers should ensure they ride in the first two carriages of the train as only these two go all the way to Nikkō.) For trains other than the tokkyū, you may have to change at Imaichi. Travelling by JR is costly and time consuming, and is really of interest only to those who have purchased a JR Pass at home. The quickest way to Nikkō via JR is to take the shinkansen from Tokyo to Utsunomiya (¥4800, 50 minutes), where you will then change for a futsū train to Nikkō (¥740, 45 minutes). Nikkō-Kinugawa Free Ticket This economical pass (¥7800) is valid for three days and is available from Tōbu railways in Asakusa, as well as at major JR stations. The pass includes transport to Nikkō, unlimited Tōbu bus usage on certain Nikkō-area routes and some discounts at local shops. Bus Once you arrive in Nikkō, you can either do the 30-minute uphill (and fairly featureless) walk to the temple and shrine area, or you can hop on bus 1 or 2 (¥190).

OTHER SIGHTS

Near Tōshō-gū is Futarasan-jinja, dedicated to Nantai-san, the tall mountain that rises above Chūzenji-ko, its consort Nyotai and their mountainous progeny Tarō. Also in the vicinity is Taiyūin-byō, which enshrines Ieyasu’s grandson Iemitsu (1604–51) and is a smaller version of the grander Tōshō-gū. The smaller size gives it a less extravagant air, and some consider it more aesthetically worthy than its larger neighbour.

224

The Kosugi Hōan Museum of Art (小杉放菴記念 日光美術館;%0288-50-1200; 2388-3 Sannai; admission ¥700; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) has a collection of landscape paintings by local artist Kosugi (1920–64) and is a good rainy-day option. To take a break from the colour and the crowds, take a 20-minute walk over to Gammanga-Fuji Abyss, which houses an interesting collection of statues of Jizō (patron of travellers, children and the unborn). One of the statues, Bake-jizō, mocks travellers foolish enough to count the number of statues (it’s said to be constantly changing to frustrate such attempts). A bit further afield, and ideal on a quiet day if you’ve thoroughly explored Nikkō, is the 50-minute bus trip up to Chūzenji-ko (¥1100) along a winding road; buses depart from either Nikkō or Tōbu Nikkō train stations. There’s some beautiful scenery, including the 97m-high waterfall Kegon-no-taki; an elevator (¥530 return) drops down to a platform where you can observe the full force of the waterfall. Also worth a visit is the third of the trio of Futarasan-jinja, complementing those near Tōshō-gū and on Nantai-san. For a relaxing soak, check out the area’s onsen (see opposite).

INFORMATION

ONSEN

Yashio-no-yu Onsen (やしおの湯温泉; %028853-6611; 1726-4 Kiyotakiwa-no-shiromachi; adult/child ¥500/free; h10am-9pm Fri-Wed) This modern hot-

spring complex has open-air baths, saunas and a large indoor bath. Take a Chūzenjibound bus from either train station in Nikkō; it’s a 12-minute ride to the Kiyomizuitchōme stop. Walk back towards Nikkō, under the bypass and across the bridge. Yumoto Onsen (湯元温泉; admission ¥500) Although Nikkō is not generally thought of as a place to hit the hot springs, it does have its own little pocket of thermal activity. This quiet onsen is about 30 minutes from Chūzenji-kō by bus (¥840) and can be a good way to wrap up a day spent trudging between temples and shrines.

EATING

Hi no Kuruma (ひの車 ; % 0288-54-2062; 597-2 Gokōmachi; mains ¥500-1500; hlunch & dinner Thu-Tue)

A great spot for do-it-yourself okonomiyaki (cabbage) pancakes. Top yours with pork, squid, beef, shrimp and corn for ¥1500. Hippari Dako (ひっぱり凧; %0288-53-2933; 1011 Kami-hatsuishichō; dishes ¥800; h11am-7pm) Good, cheap yakitori (skewers of grilled chicken) and yaki-udon (fried noodles) and friendly staff have made Hippari Dako a favourite travellers’ spot for years. The walls are papered with business cards and testimonies to the virtues of hot sake. Gyōshintei (尭心亭; %0288-53-3751; 2339-1 Sannai; dishes ¥4000; hnoon-8pm) Set in the garden grounds of Meiji-no-Yukata, Gyōshintei serves elegant Buddhist vegetarian cuisine.

Kyōdo Center tourist information office (日光郷 土センター; %0288-53-3795; 591 Gokomachi; h8.30am-5pm) Providing lots of useful pamphlets and maps, the office also has helpful English-speaking staff. Internet access costs ¥100 per 30 minutes.

SLEEPING

Nikkō Post Office (日光郵便局; %0288-54-0101; 896-1 Nakahatsuishi-chō;h9am-6pm Mon-Fri) Three

and Western-style rooms have views at this popular hostel. It’s a 10-minute walk from

Nikkō-shi Kōryu Sokushin Centre (日光市交流促進セ ンター; %0288-54-1013; www.city.nikko.lg.jp/kankou /nikko/shukuhaku/koryusokusin.html, in Japanese; 2845 Tokorono; r with/without bathroom ¥5000/4100) Japanese-

the Shiyakusho-mae bus stop, on the southern side of the Daiya-gawa. Turtle Inn Nikkō (タートルイン日光; %028853-3168; www.turtle-nikko.com/turtle/index_en.html; 2-16 Takumi-chō; s with/without bathroom from ¥5600/5100) Far

and away the most popular of Nikkō’s pensions, this cosy place is located beside the river and beyond the shrine area. To get here from the station, take a bus to the Sōgō-kaikanmae bus stop, then backtrack around 50m to the fork in the road and follow the river for around five minutes. Nikkō Pension (日光ペンション; %0288-543636; www.nikko-pension.jp; 10-9 Nishi-Sandō; r per person with/without breakfast & dinner ¥9800/5800) A Tudor-

style mansion near the temples with funky old décor. There’s a large Japanese cypress bath open 24 hours. Annex Turtle Hotori-An (アネックスタートル ほとり庵; %0288-53-3663; www.turtle-nikko.com; 8-28 Takumi-chō; r per person from ¥6800) This place, with mostly tatami rooms, is to the west of Turtle Inn Nikkō (above), over the river but on the same road. The bath house looks out onto the forest surrounding the inn. Nikkō Kanaya Hotel (日光金谷ホテル; %028854-0001; www.kanayahotel.co.jp/english/nikko/index.html; 1300 Kami-Hastuishi-machi; s/d from ¥9240/11,500) Over-

looking Shin-kyō-bashi, Nikkō’s classiest hotel is decent value if you feel like a little civilised splendour. During peak holiday periods the rates nearly double.

HAKONE 箱根 If the weather cooperates and Mt Fuji is clearly visible, the Hakone region can make a memorable day trip from Tokyo. You can enjoy cable-car rides, visit an open-air museum, soak in hot-water springs and cruise Ashi-no-ko (Lake Ashi). A paradise for hikers, divers and onsen lovers, Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park is a grab-bag of tourist sights taking in Mt Fuji (3776m), the surrounding five lakes, the Izu Peninsula and the Izu Islands. Once you’ve arrived at Hakone-Yumoto Station, it’s possible to board the delightful twocar mountain train that slowly winds through the forest to Gōra. Between Odawara and Gōra on the toy-train Hakone-Tōzan Line is the Hakone Open-Air Museum (箱根彫刻の森美術館;

EXCURSIONS HAKONE

EXCURSIONS NIKKŌ

creatures. So much effort and skill went into the gate that its creators worried that its perfection might arouse the anger and envy of the gods. To appease their predicted wrath, the final supporting pillar on the left side was placed upside down as a deliberate error intended to express humility. Through Yōmei-mon and to the right is Nemuri-neko (Sleeping Cat; admission ¥520; h8am4.30pm). This small feline carving is easy to miss – look to the beam above your head just before you begin the climb to Ieyasu’s Tomb. Sakashita-mon here opens onto a path that climbs up through towering cedars to Ieyasu’s Tomb, a relatively simple affair considering the boundless ambition of the person entombed. If you are using the combination ticket (see boxed text, p223), it will cost an extra ¥520 to see the cat and the tomb. To the left of Yōmei-mon is Jinyōsha, a storage depot for Nikkō’s mikoshi (portable shrines), which come out and bring the temple ground to life during Nikkō’s merry May and October festivals. The Honden (Main Hall) and Haiden (Hall of Worship) can also be seen in the enclosure.

blocks northwest of the Kyōdo Center tourist information office, this post office has an international ATM. Tōbu Nikkō station information centre (日光駅構内 観光案内所; %0288-53-4511; h8.30am-5pm) At the Nikkō train station, there’s a small information desk where you can pick up a town map and get help in English to find buses, restaurants and hotels.

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NIKKŌ TRANSPORT

%0460-82-1161; www.hakone-oam.or.jp; 1121 Ni-no-Taira; admission with/without Hakone Freepass ¥1400/1600; h9am5pm). You might want to stop in at the Hakone Tourist Information Centre (p228) before you

start exploring; it’s a five-minute walk west of

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INFORMATION Hakone Tourist Information Center ▫ᩮⷰశ᩺ౝᚲ ..........................................12 E2 Hakone-Yumoto Post Office............................ 13 E2

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and the start of the funicular and cable-car trip to Tōgendai on the shore of Ashi-no-ko. There’s nothing to see at Gōra, and you’ll probably want to wander on. Further up the hill, 10 minutes from Gōra Station, is the Hakone Museum of Art (箱根美術館; %0460-82-2623; www.moaart.or.jp/english/hakone/index.html; 1300 Gora; admission ¥900; h9am-4.30pm Fri-Wed Apr-Nov, 9am-4pm Dec-Mar), which has an interesting moss garden

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EATING Amazake-chaya ↞㈬⨥ደ................................7 C3 Hatsuhana ߪߟ⧎ ............................................... 8 E2

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and a collection of ceramics from Japan and across Asia. Once finished with the museum, take the funicular from Gōra up Sōunzan (10 minutes). If you don’t have a Hakone Freepass (see below), you’ll need to buy a ticket (¥400) at the booth to the right of the platform exit. Sōun-zan is the starting point of a dramatic

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SIGHTS Hakone Checkpoint ▫ᩮ㑐ᚲ ....................... 1 Hakone Museum of Art ▫ᩮ⟤ⴚ㙚....................................................... 2 Hakone Open-Air Museum ▫ᩮᓂೞߩ᫪⟤ⴚ㙚..................................3 Kappa Tengoku ߆ߞ߬ᄤ࿖ .......................... 4 Odawara Castle ዊ↰ේၔ ................................ 5 Tenzan ᄤጊ............................................................ 6

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There are three ways to get to the Hakone region: the Odakyū express bus service, departing from the bus terminal on the west side of Shinjuku Station; JR service, which runs regularly from Tokyo Station; and the private Odakyū train line, which departs from Shinjuku Station. Train JR trains run on the Tōkaidō Line between Tokyo Station and Odawara Station. Futsū trains (¥1450, 80 minutes) run every 15 minutes or so, while tokkyū trains (¥2660, one hour) leave less frequently. Shinkansen (¥3440, 35 minutes) leave Tokyo Station every 20 minutes, but you’ll need to make sure you’re on the train that stops at Odawara (the Kodama does, others do not). Trains also run to Odawara from Shinjuku Station on the Odakyū Line. The quickest and comfiest option is the Romance Car (¥1720, 75 minutes), which leaves every half-hour. There’s also a tokkyū service (¥850). At Odawara, you can change to the Hakone-Tōzan Line, a two-car toy train that will eventually deposit you at Gōra (¥650). Alternatively, if you are already on the Odakyū Line, you can continue on to Hakone-Yumoto and change to the HakoneTōzan Line (¥390 to Gōra) by crossing the platform. Bus The Odakyū express bus service has the advantage of running directly into the Hakone region, to Ashi-no-ko (Lake Ashi) and to Hakone-machi (¥1950, two hours). The disadvantage is that the bus trip is much less interesting than the combination of Romance Car, toy train (Hakone-Tōzan Line), funicular, cable car (ropeway) and ferry. Buses leave from bus stop 35 in front of Odakyū department store on the west side of Shinjuku Station. Hakone Freepass The Odakyū Line offers a Hakone Freepass (two/three-day validity ¥5000/5500); this excellent ticket allows you to use seven modes of transport within the Hakone region and provides discounts on some of the major sights. The fare between Shinjuku and Hakone-Yumoto Station is also included in the pass, although if you’re seeking the comforts of the Romance Car, you’ll have to pay a surcharge (¥870). If you have a JR Pass, you’d be advised to buy a Freepass in Odawara (¥3900/4400). Altogether it’s a good deal for the Hakone circuit.

EXCURSIONS HAKONE

EXCURSIONS HAKONE

To Gotemba (8km); Mt Fuji (22km)

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4km cable-car ride to Tōgendai. On the way, the car passes through Ōwakudani, which you’ll know you’re approaching when you catch the first eggy whiff of sulphur. You can get out at this point and take a look at the volcanic hot springs where the steam continually rises. The water from these hot springs is responsible for the black shells of many a boiled egg. If the weather is clear, there are grand views of Mt Fuji, both from the gondolas and from Ōwakudani. The journey from Gōra to Togendai costs ¥1300/2300 one way/return; make sure to hold on to your ticket if you pause at Ōwakudani. From Ōwakudani, the car continues to Ashi-no-ko (Lake Ashi), a pretty lake that on clear days serves as a reflecting pool for majestic Mt Fuji, which rises imperiously above the surrounding hills. The best way to take in the views and cross the lake is to board one of the incongruous black Ashi-no-ko Pirate Ships (cruise ¥840) at Tōgendai. These kitschy ships cruise the length of Ashi-nō-ko in 30 minutes. Near where the boats dock in Hakone-machi is the old Hakone Checkpoint, run by the Tokugawa regime from 1619 to 1869 as a means of controlling the movement of people and ideas in and out of Edo. The present-day checkpoint is a recent reproduction of the original, and can be interesting for history buffs.

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the Hakone-Yumato Station. This art museum is a short walk from Chōkoku-no-mori Station, just before Gōra. As well as paintings, the museum has a 70,000 sq metre outdoor sculpture park that features works by artists such as Auguste Rodin and Henry Moore. The outdoor bronzes are particularly lovely in the winter under a light blanket of snow.

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If you decide to go Fuji-san can be reached via Keiō Kōsoku bus (%03-5376-2222; ticket ¥1700), which takes 1¾ hours and departs from the long-distance bus station on the west side of Shinjuku Station, or via a more expensive and circuitous train route that takes at least two hours and involves hopping the JR Chūō Line for Ōtsuki (tokkyū/futsū ¥2980/1280) where you will then need to cross the platform to catch the local train to Kawaguchi-ko (¥1110, 50 minutes). Whether arriving by bus or train, Kawaguchi-ko is the place to catch the bus for the Kawaguchi-ko 5th Station (one of several departure points that are part-way up the mountain), where most climbers from Tokyo begin their evening hike. If you’re a glutton for punishment you can start at the base of Fuji-san and climb all the way up Fuji via the Yoshida route. Keep in mind that the official climbing season starts on 1 July and ends on 31 August (although it is possible – but not advised – to go at other times). And, of course, remember common-sense hiking precautions: take water unless you intend to buy it during your climb, and make sure you pack gear that is appropriate for cold and wet weather – conditions can vary wildly between the bottom and top of the mountain.

Hakone Tourist Information Center (箱根観光案 内所; %0460-85-6700; 698 Yumoto; h9am-5pm) Located in front of Hakone-Yumoto train station.

EATING

Japanese-style rooms and access to a hot spring bubbling up directly from the Owakudani Volcano. There’s a comfy lounge and internet access too (30 mins/¥100). A natural hot spa is available for private bathing, and night-time soaks are a treat, especially when the weather cools. To get here take a bus from stand 4 of Odawara Station to the Senkyōrō-mae bus stop (¥1020, 50 minutes). There’s an English sign nearby. Moto-Hakone Guest House (元箱根ゲストハウ ス; %0460-83-7880; www.fujihakone.com; 103 MotoHakone; r per person from ¥5250) This homey, pleasant guest house is located near Ashi-nō-ko. From the bus terminal at Odawara Station,

ONSEN

There are many bathing options in Hakone’s numerous onsen areas. Along with a multitude of onsen there are also many onsen ryokan (traditional hot-spring inns), some of which welcome day visitors. Kappa Tengoku (かっぱ天国; %0460-85-6121; 777 Yumoto; admission ¥750; h10am-10pm) Just up the hill from Hakone-Yumoto Station, this ro-

Amazake-chaya (甘酒茶屋; %0460-83-6418; amazake & snacks from ¥500) Since the Edo era, this tea

house has been serving up amazake (warm, sweet sake) and light snacks. It’s about 550m up the Old Tōkaidō Hwy from MotoHakone. Hatsuhana (はつ花; %0460-85-8287; 635 Yumoto; mains ¥750-1100; h10am-7pm) Slurp some soba (buckwheat noodles) at this pleasant eatery along the Haya-gawa. Hang a left on the next main street after passing the tourist information centre in Hakone-Yumoto; it’s over the bridge on the left.

Hakone’s popularity with Japanese weekenders in search of the ultimate spa experience is reflected in the high price of most accommodation in the area. With the exception of two youth hostels and a couple of ryokan, there are few budget and midrange options, although those that exist are comfortable and convenient for hiking and hot-spring hopping. Fuji-Hakone Guest House (富士箱根民宿; %046084-6577; www.fujihakone.com; 912 Sengokuhara; r per person from ¥5250) This guesthouse has clean, airy

catch a bus from lane 3 to Ashinokoen-mae bus stop. The guest house is well signposted from there. Hakone Sengokuhara Youth Hostel (箱根仙石原ユ ースホステル; %0460-84-8966; www.jyh.or.jp; 912 Sengokuhara; dm ¥3195) This friendly youth hostel is located just behind Fuji-Hakone Guest House. Check-in is from 4pm to 6pm. For directions, see Fuji-Hakone Guest House (left). Fujiya Hotel (富士屋ホテル; %0460-82-2211; www.fujiyahotel.co.jp; 359 Miyanoshita; r from ¥23,400) The posh, wood-trimmed Fujiya Hotel, which has the rustic feel of a 19th-century hunting lodge, is famous as one of Japan’s earliest Westernstyle hotels, and is highly rated on all fronts. The hotel is a five-minute walk from Miyanoshita Station on the Hakone-Tōzan Line; if you ring from the station, someone will give you directions in English.

EXCURSIONS KAMAKURA

EXCURSIONS HAKONE

SLEEPING

INFORMATION

temburo (outdoor bath) is a nice one if it’s not too crowded. Tenzan (天山; %0460-86-4126; 208 Yumoto-Chaya; admission ¥900; h9am-11pm) This large, popular bath is 2km southwest of town; weekends and holidays can be busy. A free shuttle bus runs from the bridge near Hakone-Yumoto Station. After soaking in rotemburo of varying temperatures and designs (one is constructed to resemble a natural cave), the 20-minute walk back down the hill along the river is invigorating.

From here, nearby buses run from MotoHakone back to Odawara (¥1070, 50 minutes). Odawara is billed as an old castle town, which it is – although it’s generally agreed that the castle is an uninspiring reconstruction of the original. If you’re still interested, Odawara castle (小田原城; %0465-23-1373; adult/child ¥400/150;h9am-5pm) is a 10-minute walk from Odawara Station.

Hakone-Yumoto Post Office (郵便局; %0460-855681; 383 Yumoto; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri)

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Huts are scattered up the mountainside; some stations have a number of huts, and others have none. The proprietors are very jealous of their facilities, and prominent signs, in English and Japanese, announce that even if it is pouring with rain, you can stay outside if you aren’t willing to fork over the overnight fee. Fortunately, at 1.30am we were virtually swept into one hut, probably in anticipation of the numerous bowls of rāmen (noodles in soup) we would order. We hung out in this comfortable 3400m-high hideaway until after 3am, when we calculated that a final hour and a bit of a push would get us to the top just before the 4.30am sunrise. We made it and, looking back from the top, we saw hordes of climbers heading up towards us. It was no great surprise to find a souvenir shop (there is absolutely no place in Japan where tourists won’t find a souvenir shop waiting for them). The sun took an interminable time to rise, but eventually it poked its head through the clouds, after which most climbers headed straight back down. I spent an hour walking around the crater rim, but I wasn’t sorry to wave Fuji-san goodbye. The Japanese say you’re wise to climb Fuji, but a fool to climb it twice. I’ve no intention of being a fool.

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A WISE MAN’S CLIMB Tony Wheeler I started out on a hot August night. At 10pm the temperature had been around 27°C (80°F), but by 4am it was below freezing and the wind was whistling past at what felt like hurricane speed. With a surprising number of other gaijin (foreigners) and a huge number of Japanese, I reached the top of Mt Fuji. Climbing Mt Fuji is definitely not heroic: in the two-month ‘season’, as many as 180,000 people get up to the top – 3000-odd every night. Nor is it that much fun – it’s a bit of a dusty slog, and when you get to the top it’s so cold and windy that your main thought is about heading down again. But the climb and the views aren’t really what you do it for. To Japanese Fuji-climbers, it’s something of a pilgrimage; to gaijin, it’s another opportunity to grapple with something uniquely Japanese. Like many other climbers, I made my Fuji climb overnight. At 9.30pm I got off the bus at the Kawaguchi-ko 5th Station, which is where the road ends and you have to start walking. Surprisingly, about half the passengers on my bus were gaijin, most of them a group of Americans planning to convert the Japanese to Mormonism! I’d bought a litre of the isotonic drink Pocari Sweat and a packet of biscuits at a 7-Eleven in the town of Kawaguchi-ko, and wearing a shirt and a coat, I was all set. The night was clear but dark, and I was glad I’d bought some new batteries for my torch before I left Tokyo. My experience of climbing holy mountains is that you always get to the top too early – you work up a real sweat on the climb and then you freeze waiting for dawn. So I hung around for a while before starting out. Despite the hordes climbing the mountain, I managed to lose the path occasionally. By the time I reached 2390m I’d already stopped to unzip the lining from my coat. By 11pm I was past 2700m and thinking it was time to slow down if I wanted to avoid arriving too early. By midnight it was getting much cooler, and I zipped the jacket-lining back in place and added more clothes to my ensemble. I was approaching 3000m – virtually halfway – and at this rate I was going to be at the top by 2.30am, in line with the four hours and 35 minutes the tourist office leaflet said it was supposed to take! In Japan, even mountain climbing is scheduled to the minute. Although I’d started on my own, some of the faces I met at rest stops were becoming familiar by this point, and I’d fallen in with two Canadians and a Frenchman.

KAMAKURA 鎌倉 Kamakura had a spell of glory as the nation’s capital from AD 1192 to 1333 when Japan’s seat of power temporarily relocated here from Kyoto. The Minamoto and later the Hōjo clans ruled Japan from Kamakura for more than a century, until finally in 1333,

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weakened by the heavy cost of maintaining defences against the threats of attack from Kublai Khan in China, the Hōjo clan fell from power at the hands of the forces of Emperor Go-Daigo. Although the restoration of imperial authority was somewhat illusory, the capital nevertheless shifted back to Kyoto, and Kamakura disappeared temporarily from the history books. Today Kamakura’s wealth of notable temples and elegant shrines makes it one of Tokyo’s most rewarding day trips, and one that is most often undertaken by locals. The city is best in spring and autumn when the weather is temperate, but ocean views and old-fashioned shops are a delight yearround. Be sure to stroll up Komachi-dōri from Kamakura Station, where you can stop by the Tourist Information Centre (p233) for a bit of

Kaizō-ji ᶏ⬿ኹ..................................19 B2 Kakuon-ji ⷡ࿦ኹ ............................ 20 D1 Kamakura National Treasure Museum ㎨ୖ࿖ቲ㙚 .................21 C2 Kannon Statue ...............................(see 13) Kenchō-ji ᑪ㐳ኹ .............................22 C1 Kyūhin-ji ਻ຠኹ...............................23 C4 Meigetsu-in ᣿᦬㒮 ........................24 C1 Myōchō-ji ᅱ㐳ኹ ............................25 C3 Myōhō-ji ᅱᴺኹ ..............................26 C3 Myōhon-ji ᅱᧄኹ...........................27 C3 Raigō-ji ᧪ㄫኹ ................................ 28 D1 Sugimoto-dera ᧖ᧄኹ ................. 29 D2 Tōkei-ji ᧲ᘮኹ..................................30 B1 Tomb of Minamoto Yoritomo Ḯ㗬ᦺߩჄ................................... 31 D2 Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū 㢬ጟ౎ᐈች ....................................32 C2 Zeniarai-benten ㌛ᵞᑯᄤ............33 B2 Zuisen-ji ℰᴰኹ .............................. 34 D2

local information in English. Then jump on the Enoden Line for a rickety ride through Kamakura’s backstreets to Hase Station, which is near the awesome Daibutsu (Great Buddha) and Hase-dera temple.

TEMPLES & SHRINES

Kamakura has a wealth of ancient temples and shrines, making it a very worthwhile destination if you can’t make it to Kyoto. These sanctuaries make for an ideal weekend stroll as many can be comfortably visited on foot. A pleasant walk from Kamakura Station, Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū (鶴岡八幡宮; %0467-220315; 2-1-31 Yukinoshita; general admission free, exhibition hall ¥100; h9am-4pm, closed last Mon each month) is a

carnivalesque Shintō shrine that was estab-

11-2 Hase; admission ¥300; h8am-5.30pm Mar-Sep, 8am4.30pm Oct-Feb), a temple overlooking the bay, is a 9m-tall, gold-leafed Kannon statue, said to

have washed up from the sea in the early 8th century. The statue represents the Buddhist goddess of mercy whose compassion is often invoked as a source of succour to the bereaved and aggrieved. In the gardens here are thousands of small jizō statues. Mothers who have miscarried or aborted fetuses, or lost their children, often dress jizō in warm clothing or offer toys or food as offerings in supplication for helping those lost children negotiate the underworld. Kenchō-ji (建長寺; %0467-22-0981; 8 Yamanouchi; admission ¥300; h8.30am-4.30pm), the first and grandest of Kamakura’s Zen temples, is home to gnarled cypress trees that arose from seeds brought from China by founding priest Lahhsi Tao-lung 700 years ago. The main hall is from Kyoto and the Buddha Hall (Butsuden) from Tokyo, but the temple bell is the only artefact that was actually made here. One of the five main Rinzai Zen temples in Kamakura, Engaku-ji (円覚寺; %0467-22-0487; 453 Yamanouchi; admission ¥200; h8am-5pm Apr-Sep, 8am4pm Oct-Mar) dates from 1282 and has a majestic

main gate from the 1780s. The temple’s main treasure, one of Buddha’s teeth, is enshrined

EATING Chaya-kado ⨥ደ߆ߤ....................35 C1 Komachi-Ichiba ߎ߹ߜᏒ႐....... 36 A2 T-Side ࠹ࠖ࡯ࠨࠗ࠼ .................... 37 A2 SLEEPING Classical Hotel Ajisai ࠢ࡜ࠪࠞ࡞ࡎ࠹࡞޽ߓߐ޿...38 B1 Hotel New Kamakura ࡎ࠹࡞࠾ࡘ࡯ࠞࡑࠢ࡜ ........... 39 A2 Kamakura Hase Youth Hostel ㎨ୖߪߖ࡙࡯ࠬࡎࠬ࠹࡞...... 40 A3 TRANSPORT Bus Station ࡃࠬ஗......................... 41 A2 INFORMATION Kamakura Post Office ㇷଢዪ............................................. 42 A2 Tourist Information Centre ⷰశ᩺ౝ࠮ࡦ࠲࡯..................... 43 A2

up the hill but is off-limits to the public (although you can peer into the courtyard). For 600 years Tōkei-ji (東慶寺; %0467-22-1663; 1367 Yamanouchi; admission ¥100; h8.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, 8.30am-4pm Nov-Mar) was known as the Divorce

Temple, the only place in Japan where abused or disgruntled wives could seek refuge from unhappy marriages. The main object of worship here is a statue of Shaka Nyorai (the Enlightened Buddha). The statue is believed to date back to the 14th century and, according to temple records, it escaped a great fire in 1515. Founded in 1283 by Hojo Morotoki, Jōchi-ji (浄智寺; %0467-22-3943; 1402 Yamanouchi; admission ¥150; h9am-4.30pm) is the fourth of Kamakura’s five great Zen temples. The main gate’s bell on the 2nd floor of the belltower was cast in 1340. Nearby is Kanro-no-ni, one of Kamakura’s 10 revered wells. The interest in this muddy little pond, whose name translates to ‘sweet water’, is mostly historical, but photographers still swarm its edges looking for the perfect shot. Ennō-ji (円応寺; %0467-25-1095; 1543 Yamanouchi;

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To Enoshima (3.6km); Fujisawa (6km) Rd 4 oll an T Shon

SIGHTS Ankokuron-ji ቟࿖⺰ኹ...................... 1 C3 Anyō-in ቟㙃㒮.................................... 2 C3 Chōshō-ji 㐳ൎኹ ................................. 3 C3 Daibutsu (Great Buddha) ㎨ୖᄢ੽ ............................................. 4 A3 Daigyō-ji ᄢᏁኹ................................... 5 A2 Daihō-ji ᄢቲኹ.................................... 6 C3 Egara Tenjinja ⨶ᨩᄤ␹␠...............7 D2 Eishō-ji ⧷ൎኹ ...................................... 8 C2 Engaku-ji ౞ⷡኹ.................................. 9 C1 Ennō-ji ౞ᔕኹ ....................................10 C1 Gokuraku-ji ᭂᭉኹ .......................... 11 A3 Hase-dera 㐳⼱ኹ ............................. 12 A3 Hōkoku-ji ႎ࿖ኹ .............................. 13 D2 Hongaku-ji ᧄⷡኹ ........................... 14 A2 Hosshō-ji ᴺᕈኹ............................... 15 D4 Jōchi-ji ᵺᥓኹ ....................................16 B1 Jōju-in ᚑዞ㒮.................................... 17 A3 Jufuku-ji ኼ⑔ኹ .................................18 C2

lished by the Genji family, founders of the Kamakura shōgunate. It is dedicated to a deity who is both the god of war and the guardian of the Minamoto clan. You’ll see a steeply arched bridge that was once reserved for the passage of the shōgun alone. Inside Hase-dera (長谷寺; %0467-22-6300; 3-

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admission ¥200; h9am-4pm Apr-Oct, 9am-3.30pm Nov-Mar)

is distinguished by its statues depicting the judges of hell. According to the Juo concept of Taoism, which was introduced to Japan from China during the Heian period (794–1185), these 10 judges decide the fate of souls, who, being neither truly good nor truly evil, must be assigned to spend eternity in either heaven or hell. Presiding over them is Emma (Yama), a Hindu deity known as the gruesome king of the infernal regions.

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tures a charming thatched Buddha Hall and hourly tours; the last one starts at 3pm. Zuisen-ji (瑞泉寺; %0467-22-1191; 710 Nikaidō; admission ¥100; h9am-5pm) is best known for its perennial flowers and relaxing strolls through gardens laid out by founder Musō Kokushi during the Kamakura era (1185–1333). If you feel like exploring some of Kamakura’s more remote temples and shrines, the following are good options. Students come to Egaraten-jinja (荏柄天神社; %0467-25-1772; 74 Nikaidō; admission free; h7.30am6.30pm) to pray for academic success. Like

other Tenjin shrines, Egara is dedicated to the memory of Michizane Sugawara, a Kyoto scholar of noble birth who was born in the middle of the 9th century. Students write their aspirations on ema (small wooden plaques), which are then hung to the right of the shrine. Buses taken from stop 6 in front of Kamakura Station run out to Egara Tenjinja; get off at Tenjin-mae. Sugimoto-dera (杉本寺 ; % 0467-22-3463; 903 Nikaidō; admission ¥200; h8am-4.30pm), Kamakura’s oldest temple, is said to have been established by Empress Komei sometime in the mid8th century. The famous ancient steps lead

GREAT BUDDHA & MUSEUM

Kamakura’s most famous sight, Daibutsu (鎌 倉大仏; Great Buddha; Kotoku-in, 4-2-28 Hase; admission ¥200; h7am-6pm Mar-Nov, 7am-5pm Dec-Feb) was completed in 1252. Once housed in a huge hall, the statue of Buddha today sits in the open, as a result of its home having been washed away by a tsunami in 1495. Cast in bronze and weighing close to 850 tonnes, the statue is 11.4m tall. Its construction was inspired by the even bigger Daibutsu in Nara, although it is generally agreed that

BUDDHISM IN KAMAKURA Although Buddhism came to Japan in the 6th century, it was 500 years later, during the Kamakura period (AD 1185–1333), that Buddhism finally spread throughout the country. Initially the Kamakura period was marked by secular disillusionment with Buddhist institutions and the monastic orders, and a widespread belief that the world had entered Mappō (the Later Age), a period of Buddhist decline when individuals would no longer be able to achieve enlightenment through their own efforts alone. This led to the flourishing of alternatives to established Buddhist doctrine – notably Zen and the Pure Land school of Buddhism. The Pure Land Jōdō school preached that in the Later Age, salvation could be achieved only through devotion to the transcendent Amida Buddha – all who called on him sincerely would achieve salvation in the Pure Land after death. This populist stroke opened Buddhism in Japan to the masses, who had previously been largely excluded from the more esoteric branches of Buddhism. This also contrasted with Zen, which sought Buddhahood through meditative practice aimed at the empty centre of the self. With its rigorous training and self-discipline, Zen found support among an ascendant warrior class and made a considerable contribution to the samurai ethic. Differences on the question of whether satori (enlightenment) could be attained suddenly or whether it was a gradual process accounted for Zen breaking into the Rinzai and Sōtō sects. The contending schools of Pure Land and Zen, along with the views of charismatic leaders, such as the influential 13th-century priest Nichiren, led to the revitalisation of Buddhism within Japan during the Kamakura period. The major Japanese Buddhist sects can trace their antecedents to that era. You will find numerous temples around Kamakura, including: Ankokuron-ji, Chōshō-ji, Daigyō-ji, Daihō-ji, Eishōji, Gokuraku-ji, Hongaku-ji, Hosshō-ji, Jufuku-ji, Kaizō-ji, Kyūhin-ji, Myōchō-ji, Myōhon-ji, Myōhō-ji and Raigō-ji. Anyō-in is a temple known for its azalea blooms in spring; Joju-in is another temple known for its blooms in May; Meigetsu-in is a 13th-century temple; and Zeniarai-benten is a Shintō shrine famed for its ability to double money washed in its spring.

KAMAKURA TRANSPORT Train From Tokyo Station, the JR Yokosuka Line runs to Kamakura (¥890, 56 minutes) and Kita-Kamakura (¥780) Stations. On clear days, you may be able to catch intermittent glimpses of elusive Mt Fuji. Once here, you can continue on to Enoshima via the scenic Enoden (Enoshima Dentetsu) Line from Kamakura Station or by bus from stop No 9 in front of the station. The train (¥250, 24 minutes) is the simpler and cheaper option. Bus The transportation hub here is the Kamakura train station, from which most of the local buses depart. A lack of English-language signposting makes the bus network hard to use, but the station’s Travel Information Centre (TIC; below) has the latest details on which boarding spots serve which destinations.

the Kamakura bronze is artistically superior. If you’re not claustrophobic, you can enter the Buddha’s belly through a small door that opens from his side. The privilege will cost you a measly ¥20. The Kamakura National Treasure Museum (鎌倉 国宝館; Kamakura Kokuhōkan; %0467-22-0753; 2-11 Yukinoshita; admission ¥300; h9am-4.30pm Tue-Sun)

displays an excellent collection of Kamakura art. Some are the typically peaceful Jizō, although the collection also houses a number of compelling sculptures that are energetic and carnal, and sometimes gruesome.

Kamakura. Unlike most local eateries in town, which close just after 8pm or so, this little spot stays open later.

SLEEPING

Kamakura Hase Youth Hostel (鎌倉はせユースホス テル; %0467-24-3990; www1.kamakuranet.ne.jp/hase_ yh; 5-11 Sakanoshita; dm member/nonmember ¥3360/3990)

Three minutes from Hase-dera and Yuigahama beach, this hostel has bunk beds with a tatami room and a capacity of 12. Breakfast and dinner are available. Hotel New Kamakura (ホテルニューカマクラ;

INFORMATION

%0467-22-2230; www.newkamakura.com, in Japanese; 13-2 Onarimachi; s/d from ¥7500/11,000) Reservations are

Post Office (郵便局; %0467-22-1200; 1-10-3 Komachi; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) Has ATMs inside.

recommended at this friendly, wood-floored hotel near the station. Both Western- and Japanese-style rooms are available. Classical Hotel Ajisai (クラシカルホテルあじ さい; %0467-22-3492; www.beniya-ajisai.co.jp/hotel.htm, in Japanese; 1-12-4 Yukinoshita; s from ¥6830) This is an affordable option with simple Western-style rooms and views of Tsurugaoka Hachimangū shrine.

Tourist Information Centre (鎌倉観光案内所; %0467-22-3350; 1-1-1 Komachi; h9am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, 5pm Oct-Mar) Located just outside the east exit of Kamakura Station.

EATING

Chaya-kado (茶屋かど; %0467-23-1673; 1518 Yamanouchi; mains from ¥900; h10am-5pm, may close without notice) Serving up hot, hearty soup, this humble

soba (buckwheat noodles) spot is conveniently located on the route from Kita-Kamakura to Kamakura, just before you reach Kenchō-ji. During the low season, the restaurant may open only for lunch. Komachi-Ichiba (こまち市場; %0467-24-7921; 1-1-1 Komachi, Kamakura Station, 2nd fl; lunch/dinner from ¥980/1700; h11.30am-2pm & 4-10.30pm) This restau-

rant, located above the Tourist Information Centre, dishes up tasty meal sets at terrific prices. The sister tempura shop next door has the same hours of operation. T-Side (ティーサイド; %0467-24-9572; 2-11-11 Komachi; meal sets from ¥2100; h11am-9.30pm) T-Side’s varied and delicious Indian menu is a find in

ENOSHIMA 江ノ島 Unless you’re a surfer and plan on being in

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to ferocious guardian figures (niō) poised at the entrance. The main hall houses three Kannon statues that are said to have miraculously escaped a 12th-century fire by hiding behind a tree. Take a bus from bus stop 5 in front of Kamakura Station and get off at Sugimoto-dera. Situated down the road from Sugimotodera, Hōkoku-ji (報国寺 ; %0467-22-0762; 2-7-4 Jōmyoji; admission to garden ¥200; h9am-4pm) has quiet landscaped gardens where you can relax under a parasol with a cup of green tea. This Rinzai Zen temple is known for its forest of vibrant, perennial bamboo. It regularly holds zazen (meditation) classes for beginners.

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Kakuon-ji (覚園寺; %0467-22-1195; 421 Nikaidō; admission with tour ¥300;h10am-4pm, closed in Aug) fea-

the water for most of the day, it’s best to avoid this popular beach at weekends, when its sand is completely packed with day-tripping escapees from Tokyo. At the end of the beach is a bridge to Enoshima Island, where Enoshimajinja (江ノ島神社; %0466-22-4020; h9am-4pm) is reached by an outdoor escalator, although it is possible, and pleasant, to walk the whole way. The shrine houses a hadaka-benzaiten – a nude statue of the Indian goddess of beauty. Other sights around the island include the Enoshima Samuel Cocking Garden (江の島サムエ ル・コッキング苑; %0466-23-0623; adult/child ¥200/100; h9am-4:30pm) and some sea caves on the far side of the island.

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Train The rustic Enoden railway runs between Kamakura and Enoshima (¥250, 25 minutes). Alternatively, Enoshima can be reached from Shinjuku Station in Tokyo with the use of Odakyû Line’s Enoshima Kamakura Free Pass (¥1430, 90 minutes). JR also offers a Kamakura Enoshima Free Ticket (¥1970, 55 minutes), which is valid for two days.

Enoshima’s beaches are good for some meditative wandering, particularly around the rocky headlands on the southern side of the island. On fair days, Mt Fuji is clearly visible from the south and west sides of the island. In the late afternoon, you can stop for a drink at one of the cliff-side restaurants where couples often come to watch the sun set over the mountain.

IZU-HANTŌ 伊豆半島 Eighty kilometres southwest of Tokyo, Izu-

ATAMI 熱海

Atami is known as a hot-spring naughtyweekend destination for Japanese couples, although one well-known gaijin (foreigner), John Wayne, got off his horse and drank his sake here for the filming of The Barbarian and the Geisha. Other than its numerous hot springs, its prime attraction is the MOA Art Museum (MOA; 美術館 %0557-84-2511; www .moaart.or.jp; 26-2 Momoyama-chō, Atami; admission ¥1600; h9.30am-4.30pm Fri-Wed, closed 6-10 Jan & 25-31 Dec),

which houses a collection of Japanese and Chinese art. Take a bus from bus stop 4 outside the station to the MOA Bijutsukan. Itō is another hot-springs resort and is famous as the place where Anjin-san (William Adams), the hero of James Clavell’s book Shōgun, built a ship for the Tokugawa shōgunate. Atami is especially popular with amorous twosomes, and is best avoided if you’re wanting peace and quiet.

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Shimoda is the most pleasant of the surrounding onsen towns. It is famous as the residence of the American Townsend Harris, the first Western diplomat to set up house in Japan. The Treaty of Kanagawa, which resulted from Commodore Matthew Perry’s visit (p26), ended Japan’s centuries of self-imposed isolation by forcing the nation to open the ports of Shimoda and Hakodate to US ships. An American consulate was established in Shimoda in 1856. About 700m south of Shimoda Station is Ryōsen-ji (了仙寺; %0558-22-0657; www.izu.co.jp /~ryosenji; 3-12-12 Shichiken-chō, Shimoda; museum admission ¥500; h8.30am-5pm), which is now famous

as the site where Commodore Perry and representatives of the Tokugawa shōgunate signed a treaty whose conditions (favourable to the USA, of course) supplemented those outlined in the Treaty of Kanagawa, which was signed earlier, in 1854. Located next to the temple is the Ryōsen-ji Treasure Museum displaying exhibits relating to the arrival of Westerners in Japan. These include pictures depicting Okichi-san, a courtesan who was forced to give up the man she loved in order to attend to the needs of the brutal barbarian, Harris. When Harris left Japan five years later, Okichi-san was stigmatised for having had a relationship with a foreigner and she was eventually driven to drink and suicide. Next door to Ryōsen-ji is Chōraku-ji (長楽寺; admission free; h8.30am-5pm), a pleasant little temple that is worth a quick look. Nearby Hōfuku-ji (宝福寺; %0558-22-0960; 1-18-26 Shimoda; museum admission ¥300;h8am-5pm) has a museum that commemorates the tragic life of Okichisan. Her grave is also here. Other ways to take in Shimoda include taking the Shimoda Ropeway (%0558-22-1211; return fare incl mountaintop park admission ¥1200) up 200m-tall Nesugata-yama, walking along one of the many beaches, or taking one of the Black Ship cruises (%0558-22-1151; cruise ¥920) around the bay. These cruises take about 20 minutes and depart from Shimoda Harbour every 30 minutes. There are three boats per day (9.40am, 11am and 2pm) that leave on a course for Iro-zaki. You can leave the boat at Iro-zaki (one way ¥1530, 40 minutes) and travel by bus northwards up the peninsula, or stay on the boat to return to Shimoda. Note: three boats per day leave on Monday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday; during holiday seasons the schedule is daily.

WESTERN IZU-HANTŌ 伊豆半島西部 From Shimoda’s bus stop 5 in front of the station, it’s a very scenic bus journey to Dōgashima, a small, charming fishing town on the western side of the peninsula. Along the way is Matsuzaki, a cape recommended for its traditional-style houses and quiet sandy beach. The bus to Dōgashima takes about 30 minutes (¥1360). The main attractions at Dōgashima are the dramatic rock formations that line the seashore. The park situated just across the street from the bus stop has some of the best views. It’s also possible to take a boat trip (50/20 minutes ¥1880/900) from the nearby jetty to visit the town’s famous shoreline cave, which has a natural window in its roof that allows light to pour in. You can look down into the cave from paths in the aforementioned park. South of the bus stop in Dōgashima, you will find the stunning Sawada-kōen Rotemburo onsen (沢田公園露天風呂温泉; 2817-1 Nishina, Nishi-Izuchō, Kamo-gun; admission ¥500; h7am-7pm Wed-Mon Sep-Jul, 6am-8pm Wed-Mon Aug), which

is perched high on a cliff overlooking the Pacific Ocean. You should go early in the day if possible; around sunset, it’s standing room only.

INFORMATION Main Post Office (下田郵便局; %0558-22-0603; 1-4-27 Shimoda;h10am-5pm) Has an international ATM. Shimoda Tourist Information (下田市観光案内所; %0558-22-1531; 1-4-28 Shimoda; h10am-5pm) Has

maps and brochures in English. Located next to Shimoda Station. Volunteer English Guide Association (%0558-23-5151; [email protected]; Shimoda;h8.30am-5.15pm Tue-Sun) Offers free guided tours of the area.

EATING

Musashi (むさし; %0558-22-0934; 1-13-1 Shimoda; mains from ¥630; hlunch & dinner Wed-Mon) Musashi

serves most Japanese favourites, including tempura soba. Matsu Sushi (松寿し; %0558-22-1309; 1-2-21 Shimoda; meal sets from ¥1000; h11am-8pm Thu-Tue) Stop by this place for well-priced, fresh sushi and sashimi. Gorosaya (ごろさや; %0558-23-5638; 1-5-25 Shimoda; lunch/dinner ¥1575/3150; h11.30am-2pm & 5-9pm Wed-Mon) This slightly upscale restaurant serves

very good seafood; look for the wooden fish at the entrance.

SLEEPING

Ōizu Ryokan (大伊豆旅館 ; %0558-22-0123; 3-325 Shimoda; r per person ¥3500) With a tiny hot-

spring bath and small, simple Japanese-style rooms, this popular ryokan is situated on the south side of Shimoda. It is located two blocks north of Perry Rd and four from the waterfront. Kokumin-shukusha New Shimoda (国民宿舎ニュ ー下田; %0558-23-0222; 1-4-13 Nishi-Hongo, Shimoda; r per person with/without meals ¥7480/4855) This nondescript economy inn does have its pros: tatami floors and a spacious onsen. Take a right out of Shimoda Station, another right at the first

IZU-HANTŌ TRANSPORT

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hantō, with its abundant onsen and rugged coastline, is one of Japan’s most popular resort destinations and cottage areas. It can get very crowded at weekends and holidays, particularly in summer. Luckily, once you get past the touristy resort of Atami, the crowds usually thin out. And over on the west coast, where transport is by bus only, things are always a lot quieter.

SHIMODA 下田

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Atami Train JR trains run from Tokyo Station to Atami on the Tōkaidō Line: Acty kaisoku (¥1890, 90 minutes), Kodama shinkansen (¥3570, 52 minutes), Odoriko tokkyū (¥4070, 80 minutes). It’s also possible to approach Atami via Shinjuku Station via the Odakyū Line to Odawara (¥850, 73 minutes) and then connecting with the JR Tōkaidō Line to Atami (¥400, 30 minutes).

Itō Train Itō is connected to Atami by the JR Itō Line (¥320, 25 minutes). The JR Odoriko tokkyū service also runs from Tokyo Station to Itō (¥3820) and takes about two hours.

Shimoda Train Shimoda is as far as you can go by train on the Izu-hantō peninsula. You can take the Izu Kyūkō Line from Itō (¥1670, 90 minutes) or the Odoriko tokkyū from Tokyo Station (¥6090, three hours).

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traffic light, continue for 2½ blocks and find it on your right. Station Hotel Shimoda (下田ステーションホテ ル; %0558-22-8885; www.takinogawa.net/station.html, in Japanese; 1-1-3 Nishi-Hongo, Shimoda; s/d ¥5800/9800)

Right next to Shimoda Station, this is a reasonably priced, no-frills business hotel that will do for a short stay.

Shimoda Tōkyū Hotel (下田東急ホテル; %055822-2411; www.shimodatokyu.com, in Japanese; 5-12-1 Shimoda; s/d from ¥14,000/16,000; s) Two kilometres

south of Shimoda, this posh hotel has an onsen and a swimming pool and boasts a cliffside location with ocean views. Rates include a free shuttle to and from the station, as well as two free meals.

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TR AN S PO R T AIR

International flights from all over the world land in Japan, most of them arriving in Tokyo. Tokyo is also the hub of air travel within Japan, which is extensive, reliable and safe. In many cases, flying can be faster – and not significantly more expensive – than riding the shinkansen (bullet train). Flying can also help you get from Japan’s main hubs, such as Tokyo and Osaka, to some of the country’s most far-flung destinations, such as Okinawa and Hokkaido. Customs and immigration procedures are usually straightforward, although they’re more time-consuming for gaijin (foreigners) than for Japanese. Note that as of 20 November 2007, non-Japanese have been fingerprinted and photographed on arrival, and are subject to intense questioning. A neat appearance will speed your passage through passport control and customs, though you can expect delays if you’ve entered Japan multiple times as a tourist. Everything at Narita Airport is clearly signposted in English and you can change money in the customs halls of either terminal or in the arrival halls. The rates will be the same as those offered in town.

Airports

Tokyo has two airports: Narita, which handles most international traffic, and Haneda, which is used primarily for domestic flights. Narita Airport (%flight information 0476-34-5000, general information 0476-32-2802) is 66km east of

TRANSPORT AIR

Tokyo’s world-class, public-transport system will get you anywhere you need to go. Most places worth visiting are conveniently close to a subway or Japan Railways (JR) station. Where the rail network lets you down (though it really shouldn’t), there are usually bus services – although using these can be challenging if you can’t read kanji. Most residents and visitors use the railway system far more than any other means of transport. It is reasonably priced and frequent (generally five minutes at most between trains on major lines in central Tokyo), and stations have conveniences such as leftluggage lockers for baggage storage. The only drawback is that the system shuts down at midnight or 1am and doesn’t start up again until 5am or 6am. Subway trains have a tendency to stop halfway along their route when closing time arrives. People who are stranded face an expensive taxi ride home or have to wait for the first morning train. Check schedules posted on platforms for the last train on the line if you plan to be out late. Avoiding Tokyo’s rush hour is a good idea, but might be impossible if you’re on a tight schedule. Commuter congestion tends to ease between 10am and 4pm, when travelling around Tokyo – especially on the JR Yamanote Line – can actually be quite pleasant. Before 9.30am and from about 4.30pm onward there’ll be cheek-to-jowl crowds on all major train and bus lines. Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com/ travel_services.

WARNING – THINGS CHANGE The information contained in this chapter is particularly vulnerable to change: prices for international travel are volatile, routes are introduced and cancelled, schedules change, special deals come and go, and rules and visa requirements are amended. Airlines and governments seem to take pleasure in making price structures and regulations as complicated as possible. You should check directly with the airline or your travel agency to make sure you understand how the ticket you buy works. In addition, the travel industry is highly competitive, and there are many lurks and perks. The upshot of this is that you should get opinions, quotes and advice from as many airlines and travel agencies as possible before parting with your hard-earned cash. The details given in this chapter should be regarded as pointers and are not a substitute for your own careful, up-to-date research. For the most up-to-date travel information, check out the Lonely Planet Thorn Tree Forum at www.thorntree .lonelyplanet.com.

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although there is usually someone who can answer your questions in English.

Courier Services

Baggage couriers provide next-day delivery of your large luggage from Narita and Haneda Airports to any address in Tokyo (costs around ¥2000 per large bag). They can also deliver luggage to points beyond Tokyo so you don’t have to haul it through trains and stations all over the countryside. Couriers can also pick up luggage for delivery to the airport, but be sure to call two days before your flight to arrange a pick-up. The companies listed here have some operators who speak English: ABC (%01-2091-9120) NPS Skyporter (%3590-1919) Yamato (%0476-32-4755)

Getting To/From the Airports NARITA AIRPORT

Japan Railways (JR East; %3423-0111; www.jreast .co.jp/e/nex/index.html) runs Narita Express (N’EX;

¥2940, 53 minutes) and JR kaisoku (rapid express; ¥1280, 85 minutes) services into Tokyo Station (Map pp52–3), from where you can change for almost anywhere. N’EX is swift, smooth and comfortable, but it doesn’t run as frequently as the private Keisei Line. N’EX trains leave Narita approximately every half-hour between 7am and 10pm for Tokyo Station, and they also run less frequently into Shinjuku (Map p116; ¥3110) and Ikebukuro (Map p122; ¥3110), or to Japan’s second-largest city, Yokohama (¥4180). All seats are reserved, but tickets can usually be bought just before departure; if the train is already full, you can buy a standing ticket for the same price. The JR kaisoku service is part of the local transit network and so stops at many local stations. This service is the slowest and cheapest into Tokyo Station, leaving about once an hour. Friendly Airport Limousine buses (%3665-7220; www.limousinebus.co.jp/e) can be found in both

wings of the arrival building of Narita airport. Don’t get too excited about the name – they’re ordinary buses. They take 1½ to two hours (depending on traffic) to travel between

Narita airport and a number of major hotels around Tokyo. Check departure times before buying your ticket; buses depart every 15 to 30 minutes. The fare to hotels in Ikebukuro, Akasaka, Ginza, Shibuya or Shinjuku is ¥3000. You can also go straight to Tokyo Station (one hour 20 minutes) or to Shinjuku Station (Map p116; one hour 25 minutes) for ¥3000. Those transferring to domestic flights departing from Haneda Airport can take a limousine bus direct (¥3000, 75 minutes) from Narita. Allow plenty of extra time as traffic conditions in Tokyo are seldom ideal. Limousine buses also offer services between Narita and Yokohama City Air Terminal (YCAT; %045-459-4800) at Yokohama Station. Buses from YCAT, departing every 20 minutes or so, take around 90 minutes and cost ¥3500. In case you’re wondering, a taxi to Narita Airport from Tokyo will cost more than ¥30,000 and, battling traffic all the way, will usually take longer than the train.

HANEDA AIRPORT The simplest, cheapest way to get from Haneda into Tokyo is to hop on the JR monorail to Hamamatsuchō Station on the JR Yamanote Line. Trains (¥470, 20 minutes) leave every 10 minutes. Limousine buses (direct; ¥900, 30 minutes)also connect Haneda with Tokyo City Air Terminal (TCAT; Map p126) and hotels around central Tokyo; buses to

CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely upon, and air travel is the fastest-growing contributor to the problem. Lonely Planet regards travel, overall, as a global benefit, but believes we all have a responsibility to limit our personal impact on global warming.

Flying & Climate Change Pretty much every form of motorised travel generates CO₂ (the main cause of human-induced climate change) but planes are far and away the worst offenders, not just because of the sheer distances they allow us to travel, but because they release greenhouse gases high into the atmosphere. The statistics are frightening: two people taking a return flight between Europe and the US will contribute as much to climate change as an average household’s gas and electricity consumption over a whole year.

TRANSPORT AIR

TRANSPORT AIR

Getting into town from Narita can take anything from 50 minutes to two hours, depending on your mode of transport. Because the two terminals at Narita are fairly distant from one another, be sure to get off at the correct terminal – all airport transport prominently displays lists of airlines and the terminal they use. Both the private Keisei Line and Japan Railways (JR East) offer services to get from Narita to Tokyo. Conveniently, trains depart from stations under the airport terminals. On the private Keisei Line (%0476-32-8501; www .keisei.co.jp/keisei/tetudou/keisei_us/top.html), two services run between Narita airport and Tokyo: the comfortable, fast Skyliner service (¥1920, 56 minutes), which runs nonstop to Nippori and Ueno Stations (Map p72); and the tokkyū (premium train) service (limited express; ¥1000, 75 minutes). The Keisei Stations in Terminals 1 and 2 are clearly signposted in English. From Nippori or Ueno (the final stop), you can change to the JR Yamanote Line. Ueno Station is on both the JR Yamanote Line and the Hibiya and Ginza subway lines. If you’re travelling to Ikebukuro or Shinjuku, it’s more convenient to get off one stop before Ueno at Nippori Station, also on the JR Yamanote Line. Going to the airport from Ueno, the Keisei Ueno Station is right next to the JR Ueno Station. You can buy advance tickets here

for the Skyliner service, or purchase tickets for the Keisei tokkyū service from the ticket machines. JR Nippori Station has a clearly signposted walkway to the Keisei Nippori Station.

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Tokyo, but aside from its inconvenient location, it’s an excellent, modern airport with a plethora of services. It is divided into two terminals, which are connected by a free shuttle-bus service. From Terminal 1 board this bus at stop 0, and from Terminal 2 board at stops 8 and 18. Note that some of the airport’s services are available only in the newer Terminal 2. At both terminals there are post offices, currency-exchange counters and lots of restaurants and duty-free shops. Both terminals also offer left-luggage services and efficient baggage-courier services (see right). In both Terminals 1 and 2, the travel-weary (and -dirty) will find showers and day-rooms for napping, and free children’s playrooms available to departing passengers who have completed emigration formalities. Both playrooms include computer games and welldesigned play areas. There are several information counters in both terminals, and the staff speak English; the main counter for foreign visitors is the Terminal 2 information counter (%0476-34-6251; h9am-8pm), on the 1st floor. The airport Tourist Information Center (TIC; %0476-34-6251; h9am-8pm) is a key stop if you haven’t yet booked any accommodation. While you’re there, pick up a subway map and the Tourist Map of Tokyo. There’s a TIC on the 1st floor in each terminal. Narita airport also has a JR office where you can make bookings and exchange your Japan Rail Pass voucher for a pass, if you’re planning to start travelling straight away. Check-in procedures are usually very efficient at Narita, but you should arrive at the airport at least two hours before your departure time. Passport control and security procedures are similarly efficient (bring your embarkation card, which you should have received upon arrival; if you don’t have one, you can get a blank form before going through passport control). Haneda Airport (%information 5757-8111) is the airport seasoned Tokyo expats wish was still Tokyo’s main air hub. Unfortunately, all international traffic now goes via Narita airport, and only domestic flyers and charter flights can make use of this conveniently located airport. Haneda doesn’t have Narita’s services infrastructure, but there are post offices, banks, left-luggage services and baggage-shipping companies. Nor does Haneda have a dedicated English-language information counter,

Carbon Offset Schemes Climatecare.org and other websites use ‘carbon calculators’ that allow travellers to offset the level of greenhouse gases they are responsible for with financial contributions to sustainable travel schemes that reduce global warming – including projects in India, Honduras, Kazakhstan and Uganda. Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the travel industry, support the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely Planet offsets all of its staff and author travel. For more information check out our website: www.lonelyplanet.com.

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Tickets

If you’re planning on booking domestic flights in Japan, you’ll find a number of travel agencies in Tokyo where English is spoken. Note that prices fluctuate wildly depending on season, availability and fuel prices. Across Traveller’s Bureau (www.across-travel.com); Ikebukuro (Map p122; %5391-3227; 3rd fl, 1-11-1 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku); Shibuya (Map p106; %5467-0077; 3rd fl, 1-14-14 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku); Shinjuku (Map p116; %3340-6745; 2nd fl, 1-19-6 NishiShinjuku, Shinjuku-ku) No 1 Travel (www.no1-travel.com); Ikebukuro (Map p122; %3986-4690; 4th fl, 1-16-10 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshimaku); Shibuya (Map p106; %3770-1381; 7th fl, 1-11-1 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku); Shinjuku (Map p116; %3200-8871; 7th fl, 1-16-5 Kabukichō, Shinjuku-ku) STA Travel (Map p122; %5391-2922; www.statravel .co.jp/english/index.html; 7th fl, 1-16-20 MinamiIkebukuro, Toshima-ku)

BICYCLE

BOAT

Water taxis are one of the most dramatic ways to take in the city. For more information on cruises down the Sumida-gawa, see p87.

BUS

The vast majority of Tokyoites and resident expats never set foot on a bus as the rail and subway system is convenient and incredibly

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CAR & MOTORCYCLE Driving

Driving yourself around Tokyo is by no means impossible, but the entire experience is somewhat akin to stabbing yourself in the eye with a chopstick. Parking space is limited and expensive, traffic moves in slow-mo, traffic lights are posted virtually every 50m, and unless you’ve lived here for awhile and can read Japanese, expect to get lost. With that said, you’re much better off taking advantage of Tokyo’s excellent public transport. However, if you do intend to drive in Japan, pick up a copy of the eminently useful Rules of the Road, available from the Japan Automobile Federation (www.jaf.or.jp/e/index.htm). A large number of Tokyoites and resident expats have motorbikes. It’s a good way to get around town, especially after the trains have stopped running. The best place to take a look at what’s available and get some information in English is the area of motorbike shops on Korinchō-dōri, near Ueno Station (Map p72) – some of the shops there have foreign staff. If you do decide to buy a motorbike, you will need a motorbike licence (for motorbikes up to 400cc, your foreign licence is transferable) and your bike will need to be registered. Bikes up to 125cc are registered at your local ward office, while bikes of more than 125cc are registered with the Transport Branch Office. Further information can be obtained through the service offered to foreign residents living in Tokyo by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government (%5320-7744).

Hire

Car-rental agencies in Tokyo will hire you one of their vehicles upon presentation of an international driving licence. Small cars average ¥8000 per day. Some rental agencies that usually have English-speaking staff on hand: Dollar Rent-a-Car (%3567-2818) Nippon Rent-a-Car (%3485-7196) Toyota Rent-a-Car (%5954-8008)

TAXI

Generally speaking, taxis are very expensive, and you should only use them when you have no alternative, such as returning to your hotel or apartment late at night. Rates start at ¥710, which buys you 2km (after 11pm it’s 1.5km), then the meter rises by ¥80 every 275m (every 220m or so after 11pm). You also click up about ¥80 every two minutes while you relax in a typical Tokyo traffic jam. Taxi vacancy is indicated by a red light in the corner of the front window; a green light means there’s a night-time surcharge; and a yellow light means that the cab is on call. If you have to get a taxi late on a Friday or Saturday night, be prepared for delays and higher prices. The same applies any day of the week for the first hour or so after the last trains run. At these times, most stranded commuters stand in long queues in order to get a taxi home. Tokyo taxi drivers rarely speak any English – if you don’t speak Japanese, it’s a good idea to have your destination written down in Japanese. Even if your destination has an English name, it is unlikely the driver will understand your pronunciation. Oh, and by the way, don’t slam the door shut when you get in or leave. In Japan, taxi doors magically open and close themselves.

TRAIN

The Tokyo train system can be a bit daunting at first, but you’ll get the hang of it soon enough. Much initial confusion arises from the fact that Tokyo is serviced by a combination of train lines, private and municipal inner-city subway lines and private suburban lines. This sometimes means switching between different train and subway systems, though it’s not as bad as it sounds since the lines are well integrated. When determining where to get off the train, look for station names clearly marked

in both Japanese and English on platform signs and/or posts. These may sometimes be difficult to see, but inside the trains there are electronic signs indicating the next station in Japanese and English. Additionally, automated announcements are made both inside the trains, as well as at the station when the doors open. Always watch out for express services. As a general rule, the longer the route, the more likely you are to find faster train services. The fastest ‘regular’ trains (ie slower than the bullet trains) are the tokkyū (特急; limited express services) and the kyūkō (急行; ordinary express), which usually stop at only a limited number of stations. The slowest trains, which stop at all stations, are called futsū (普通). Since the faster trains do not stop at all stations, you must determine whether your destination is serviced by an express train before boarding it. However, there is usually a board on the platform indicating exactly which trains stop where, in both English and Japanese. Most of Tokyo’s train lines now reserve women-only carriages at weekday rush hours and on weekend nights. The carriages are marked with signs (usually pink) in both Japanese and English, or in some cases by illustrations showing the silhouette of a man standing outside of a women-only carriage. Boys older than 12 are not allowed on womenonly carriages.

Japan Railways (JR) Lines YAMANOTE LINE

Making a 35km loop around central Tokyo, the Japan Railways (JR) Yamanote Line (Map p110) is a mostly above-ground circuit that makes a great introduction to the city. Buy the cheapest fare (¥130), disembarking at the same station where you start, and you’ll get a solid, one-hour overview of Tokyo’s main areas of interest. Most fares within the Yamanote loop are either ¥160 or ¥190. JR Yamanote Line trains are silver with a green stripe.

TRANSPORT TAXI

TRANSPORT BICYCLE

Despite the tangled traffic and often narrow roads, bicycles are still one of the most common forms of transport in Tokyo. Theft does happen, especially of cheap bicycles, so go ahead and lock up your bike. Ride with your bag or pack on your person, as opportunists on motorbikes do swipe stuff from those front-mounted baskets. Some ryokan (traditional Japanese inns) and inns rent bicycles to their guests, but if your lodgings don’t, you can rent a bicycle in Asakusa for ¥200 per day. There’s a bicyclerental lot on the Sumida-gawa bank near Azumabashi (the bridge just outside Asakusa Station). Also see p195 for location-specific leisure-ride bike rentals.

comprehensive. However, on rare occasions, it can sometimes be quicker to get between two destinations on a bus. Bus fares are ¥200 for Tokyo Metropolitan (Toei) buses; you can pick up a copy of the Toei Bus Route Guide, including a route map and timetable, at any Toei subway station. Children’s rates are half those of adult fares. Deposit your fare into the box next to the driver as you enter the bus; you can get change for ¥1000 notes and coins. A tape recording announces the name of each stop as it is reached, so listen carefully and press the button next to your seat when yours is announced. The one-day Tokyo Combination Ticket (see p242) can be used on Toei buses as well as the subway and JR railway lines.

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Ikebukuro and Shinjuku, for example, cost ¥1200 and take about one hour. Of course you could shell out around ¥7000 for a taxi if you prefer.

CHŪŌ & SŌBU LINES The JR Chūō Line (Map p116) cuts its way through the centre of the JR Yamanote Line between Shinjuku and Tokyo Stations. Trains on this line are coloured orange. This line is continuous with the JR Sōbu Line until Ochanomizu Station where the lines split – the Chūō heading down to Tokyo Station and the Sōbu heading out to the eastern suburbs.

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OTHER LINES The JR Yokosuka Line runs south to Kamakura (see p233) from Tokyo Station via Shimbashi and Shinagawa Stations. The JR Tōkaidō Line also travels in the same direction from Tokyo Station, providing access to Izu-hantō (p234).

Private Lines

YURIKAMOME LINE The privately owned Yurikamome Line, which services Odaiba (Map p131), is a driverless, elevated train that departs from Shimbashi, just south of Ginza, crosses the Rainbow Bridge, and terminates in Ariake, on an artificial island in Tokyo Bay. The Shimbashi terminal is above ground and on the eastern side of JR Shimbashi Station.

OTHER LINES Most of the private lines service suburban areas outside Tokyo, but some of them also connect with popular sightseeing areas. The private lines almost always represent better value for money than the JR lines. The ones you are most likely to use are Shibuya’s Tōkyū Tōyoko Line, which runs south to Yokohama; Shinjuku’s Odakyū Line, which runs southwest out to Hakone (p225); and Asakusa’s Tōbu Nikkō Line, which goes north to Nikkō (p221).

Tokyo is also home to no less than 13 subway lines, of which eight are Tokyo Metro Company lines and four are Toei lines. It is not particularly important to remember this distinction as the services are essentially the same and have good connections from one to the other, although they do operate under separate ticketing systems. The colour-coding and regular English signposting make the system easy to use. For instance, you’ll quickly learn that the Ginza Line is orange and that the Marunouchi Line is red. Perhaps the most confusing part is figuring out where to surface when you have reached your destination – there is almost always a large number of subway exits. Fortunately, the exits are numbered and maps are posted, usually close to the ticket turnstiles.

Tickets & Passes

VENDING MACHINES/PURCHASING

For all local journeys, tickets are sold by vending machines called kippu jidō hanbaiki. Above the vending machines are rail maps with fares indicated next to the station names. Unfortunately for visitors, the names on the map are often in kanji only. The best way around this problem is to put your money in the machine and push the lowest fare button (¥130 on JR, ¥160 to ¥170 on subway lines). When you get to your destination, you can correct the fare at an attended ticket gate or at a fare-adjustment machine (see below). All vending machines for all lines accept ¥1000 notes and most accept ¥10,000 (there are pictures of the bills accepted on the machines). Don’t forget to pick up the bills you get in change. Two buttons on the machine could come in handy if you completely bungle the operation. First is the tori-keshi (取り消し; cancel) button, which is usually marked in English. The second is the yobidashi (呼び出し; call) button, which will alert a staff member that you need assistance (staff sometimes pop out from a hidden door between the machines – it can be surprising). Of course, many travellers and even longterm residents never bother to figure out the appropriate fare when buying tickets, particularly for short inner-city hops. They just grab the cheapest ticket and are on their way. If you choose to do this, you have two choices upon arrival at your destination: an attended ticket gate or the fare-adjustment machine. At an attended gate, simply hand over your ticket and the attendant will inform you of the additional fare. A fare-adjustment machine is just as simple and saves time if the gate is congested. Look for fare-adjustment machines, usually lit up with yellow signs, near the exit turnstiles. Insert your ticket into the slot near the top of the machine. The screen will tell you how much to pay, then spit out your change (if any) and a new ticket. Insert this ticket into the exit turnstiles, and off you go. Fare-adjustment machines usually have English instruc-

tions, and they are sited slightly apart from the ticket machines to avoid congestion. You’ll need different tickets for the two subway systems, but the automated ticket machines sell transfer tickets (¥70), which allow you to transfer from one system to another for without buying another full-price ticket. The button for this ticket is usually marked only in Japanese (乗り換え; norikae). To save yourself time and hassle, don’t bother with transfer tickets – buy a Pasmo card or Tokyo Combination Ticket instead (see right). In the case of JR stations, there will be signs (sometimes but not always in both English and Japanese) indicating the Midori-noMadoguchi (緑の窓口; Green Window) ticket counter, which is usually posted with a green sign. Here you can buy bullet train tickets, make reservations and buy special passes; in smaller stations this is where you ask for information as well.

PREPAID TICKETS If plan to travel on JR lines for more than a few days, consider buying a prepaid JR IO card, which can be found in most JR subway stations. IO cards come in denominations of ¥1000, ¥3000 and ¥5000 and can be purchased from some JR ticket machines. Insert the card into the automated turnstiles as you would a normal ticket, but don’t forget to grab it as you exit the turnstile! The turnstiles will automatically deduct the minimum fare as you enter the train system, and then any amount above that figure, if necessary, as you transfer and/or exit. If you have less than ¥160 left on the card, you will not be able to enter the subway system. Take the card to a ticket machine, then insert the card and whatever amount is necessary to bring the total on the card to ¥160. The machine will then spit out a new ticket and the now worthless JR IO card. Much like the JR IO card, the Passnet card is a boon for anyone travelling the Tokyo subways. Passnet cards are sold by Tokyo Metro (SF Metro Card) or the Toei subway system (T-Card). These prepaid cards are valid for all the different subway lines and eliminate the need to buy several tickets for one journey. Purchase Passnet cards from ordinary automated ticket machines with a ‘Passnet’ logo (look for an orange-and-white running figure – presumably zipping through turnstiles). Cards are sold in denominations of ¥1000, ¥3000 and ¥5000. Insert the amount, push the Passnet button, then the cash amount button.

A Tokyo Combination Ticket (¥1580) is a day pass that can be used on all JR, subway and bus lines within the Tokyo metropolitan area. It is available at most Green Window ticket counters. If you’re planning on hopping on and off the Yurikamome, a day pass (¥800) is a good deal. These should be purchased from the ticket machines in Shimbashi prior to departing for Odaiba. Those planning to spend an extended period of time in Tokyo should strongly consider getting either a Suica or a Pasmo smart card. In the past, the Suica card was solely reserved for JR lines, and the Pasmo card for the Tokyo Metro and Toei Metro subway lines. However, following the 2007 collaboration between all of the Tokyo transportation systems including the private lines, either card now works on any line. This is an incredible convenience as you can effortless move between systems with a swipe of a card. The Suica Card (¥2000, including a ¥500 deposit) is the one that most commuters used to use for daily rides on the JR system, while the Pasmo Card (¥2000, including a ¥500 deposit) is the one that most commuter used to use for daily rides on the subway. These days however, both cards are essentially one and the same, so it doesn’t matter which one you choose. Fares are automatically deducted at the end of a journey and you can replenish the value of the card as needed. Purchase Suica cards at vending machines or at ticket counters in JR stations and Pasco cards at vending machine or at ticket counters in Tokyo Metro and Toei Metro stations. Conveniently, the Suica and Pasmo cards can be swiped over the wicket without being removed from a wallet or bag. You can even use it to pay for items in stores, vending machines and baggage lockers in stations. When you return your Suica or Pasmo card at a station office, you’ll be refunded the ¥500 deposit that was included with the initial ¥2000 purchase. Another pass offered by JR is the Japan Rail Pass (www.japanrailpass.net), allowing for unrestricted travel on JR trains throughout Japan. A seven-day pass costs ¥28,300 and must be purchased before arriving in Japan; 14-day and 21-day passes are also available, though if you’re planning on spending most of your time in Tokyo, this pass will not be of benefit to you. On the other hand, if you are planning on visiting other cities or on making some short day trips (see p218), the seven-day pass could save you a little money.

TRANSPORT TRAIN

TRANSPORT TRAIN

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Subway Lines

Generally, the subway system is indispens able for getting to areas that lie inside the loop traced by the JR Yamanote Line. The central Tokyo area is served by a large number of lines that intersect at Nihombashi, Ōtemachi and Ginza, making it possible to get to this part of town from almost anywhere.

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Trains on the JR Sōbu Line are yellow, so telling them apart is easy. The JR Chūō Line is about the fastest route between Shinjuku and Tokyo Stations (only rivalled by the Marunouchi subway line).

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TRANSPORT TRAIN

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Stations

Navigating your way around train stations in Tokyo can be confusing, particularly at some of the more gigantic and complex stations such as Shinjuku Station. The key is to know where you’re going before you get to the station. Most stations have adequate English signposting, with large yellow signs on the platforms posting exit numbers and often including local destinations, such as large hotels, department stores and embassies. When possible, find out which exit to use when you get directions to a destination. Street maps of the area are usually posted near each exit. Many stations simply have four main exits: north, south, east and west. Since one station will usually have several different exits, you should get your bearings and decide where to exit while still on the platform. If you have your destination written down, you can go to an attended gate and ask the station attendant to direct you to the correct exit. To help you along we’ve included in this guidebook exit details for each listing where possible. Modern Japanese spend a good part of their lives on trains, a fact that is reflected in the wide range of services available at most stations. Most stations have left-luggage lockers, which can hold medium-sized bags (back-

packs won’t usually fit). These lockers often come in several sizes and cost from ¥200 to ¥600. Storage is good for 24 hours, after which your bags will be removed and taken to the station office. All train stations have toilets, almost all of which are free of charge. Bring toilet paper though as it is not always provided (this is why advertising in the form of tissue packets handed out on street corners is big business). It’s also a good idea to pick up a handkerchief at the ¥100 shops as paper towels and hand driers are also not always available. At the vast majority of stations, you can also find several options for food. The smallest of these are kiosks, which sell snacks, drinks, magazines, newspapers etc. Next up are stores selling ekiben (train-station boxed lunches), which are obligatory if you truly want to experience the sophistication of Japanese longdistance rail travel, and tachi-kui, which are stand-and-eat noodle restaurants. Most of these places require that you purchase a food ticket from a vending machine, which you hand to an attendant upon entry (most machines have pictures on the buttons to help you order). Finally, large stations might also have a choice of several sit-down places, most of which will have plastic food models displayed in the front window.

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D I R EC TO RY BUSINESS HOURS

CHILDREN

Tokyo, like the rest of Japan, is unreservedly child-friendly. In addition to loads of kidcentred activities (see the boxed text, p71), the city also offers numerous playgrounds and parks where children, and parents, can unwind. If you’re travelling with small children, common items such as nappies (diapers) can be found at any pharmacy. Baby formula and other special dietary needs will, of course, be labelled in Japanese, so bringing such items from home could save time and frustration.

Baby-sitting

Listed are a few recommended services providing English-speaking sitters. Although some of these organisations require an annual membership fee, they may waive it if you ask for introductory or trial rates. Prices vary considerably depending on the number of children, time required and your location in Tokyo. Japan Baby-Sitter Service (%3423-1251; www.jbs -mom.co.jp, in Japanese) One of Japan’s oldest – and considered one of its most reliable – services. Poppins Service (%3447-2100; www.poppins.co.jp /english/index.html) Nannies versed in early childhood development and first aid can also speak English, French, German or Italian. Tokyo Domestic Service Center (%3584-4769) All sitters required to have at least 10 years experience with children. Call a day ahead to arrange an English-speaking sitter.

Tom Sawyer Agency (%3770-9530) Sitters for newborns to 12-year-olds are available 24 hours a day; arrange services by 8pm the day before.

Alternatively, if you’re staying at a hotel, staff there might be able to refer you to a reliable baby-sitter.

CLIMATE

Tokyo kicks off its year with cold winter days and the odd snowfall. Although temperatures occasionally drop below freezing, winter (December to February) is usually reasonable if you have the right kind of clothes. Spring (March to May) brings pleasant, warm days, and, of course, cherry blossoms (see the boxed text, p20) – early April is probably the best time to view the blooms. Summer (June to August) is hot and muggy, a time when overcrowded trains and long walks can feel irritating. Late June can see torrential rains that pound the city during monsoon seasons. The temperature and humidity are at their worst in August. Apart from spring, autumn (September to November) is the most pleasant season as temperatures cool down to a cosy level and days are often clear and fine. Autumn also means the return of the dramatic foliage season, when the parks and green areas of the city mellow into varying hues of orange and red. For more information see p16. TOKYO °C

°F

Average Max/Min

17m (59ft)

Temp/Humidity

Rainfall

%

in

40 104

100

10

250

30

86

80

8

200

20

68

60

6

150

10

50

40

4

100

0

32

20

2

50

-10

14

0

0

J F MAM J J A S O N D

DIRECTORY BUSINESS HOURS

Most businesses are open from 9am to 5pm Monday to Friday, with some also open on Saturday. Banks are normally open Monday to Friday from 9am to noon, and between 2pm and 5pm (some ATMs, however, may be accessed 24 hours a day, seven days a week, but this can be rare). Shops and supermarkets are usually open from 10am to 8pm daily. Restaurants are generally open for lunch from 11.30am or noon to 2.30pm or 3pm and for dinner from 6pm or 6.30pm to 9pm or 10pm, with last orders taken about half an hour before closing. Variations on the above opening hours are listed in reviews.

mm

0

J F MAM J J A S O N D

CUSTOMS REGULATIONS

Customs allowances include the usual tobacco products plus three 750mL bottles of alcohol, 57g of perfume, and gifts and souvenirs up to a value of ¥200,000 or its equivalent. You must be older than 20 years to qualify for these allowances. The penalties for importing illegal drugs are very severe.

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Japanese plugs are the type with two flat pins, which are identical to two-pin North American plugs. The Japanese electric current is 100V AC, an odd voltage found almost nowhere else in the world (appliances with a two-pin plug made for use in North America will work without an adaptor, but may be a bit sluggish). Tokyo and eastern Japan are on 50Hz, western Japan is on 60Hz. Transformers are easy to find at one of Japan’s plentiful electronics shops. Check www.kropla.com for detailed information on matters of voltage and plugs.

EMBASSIES Australia (Map pp96–7; %5232-4111; www.australia .or.jp/english/; 2-1-14 Mita, Minato-ku) Belgium (Map p56; %3262-0191; www.diplomatie .be/tokyo; 5 Nibanchō, Chiyoda-ku) Canada (Map p92; %5412-6200; www.canadanet.or.jp; 7-3-38 Akasaka, Minato-ku) France (Map pp96–7; %5420-8800; www.ambafrance -jp.org; 4-11-44 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku) Germany (Map pp96–7; %5791-7700; www.tokyo.diplo .de; 4-5-10 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku) Ireland (Map p56; %3263-0695; www.irishembassy.jp; 2-10-7 Kōjimachi, Chiyoda-ku) Italy (Map pp96–7; %3453-5291; www.embitaly.jp; 2-5-4 Mita, Minato-ku) Malaysia (Map p106; %3476-3840; www.kln.gov .my/perwakilan/tokyo/; 20-16 Nanpeidaichō, Shibuya-ku) Netherlands (Map pp96–7; %5401-0411; www.oranda .or.jp; 3-6-3 Shiba-kōen, Minato-ku) New Zealand (Map p106; %3467-2271; www.nzem bassy.com; 20-40 Kamiyamachō, Shibuya-ku) South Korea (Map pp96–7; %3452-7611; www.mofat .go.kr; 1-2-5 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku)

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USA (Map p92; %3224-5000; http://tokyo.usembassy .gov; 1-10-5 Akasaka, Minato-ku)

EMERGENCY

Although most emergency operators you’ll reach in Tokyo don’t speak English, the operators will immediately refer you to someone who does. Japan Helpline is a service that provides assistance to foreigners living in Japan. Ambulance (%119) Fire (%119) Japan Helpline (%0120-46-1997) Police (%110)

GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS

With the possible exception of Thailand, Japan is Asia’s most enlightened nation with regard to the sexual orientation of foreigners. Tokyo in particular is a tolerant city where the bars and clubs host folks of all predilections. Tokyo has an active gay scene and a small, but very lively, gay quarter (Shinjuku-nichōme). Check Tokyo Classified or Tokyo Journal for listings of gay and lesbian clubs. Outside Tokyo, you’ll find it difficult to break into the local scene unless you spend considerable time in a place or have local contacts who can show you around. Same-sex couples probably won’t encounter too many problems travelling in Japan. Some travellers have reported being turned away or grossly overcharged when checking into love hotels with a partner of the same sex. Apart from this, it’s unlikely that you’ll run into difficulties. There are no legal restraints on same-sex sexual activities in Japan apart from the usual age restrictions, although it does pay to be discreet with public displays of affection. Cineastes visiting in summer should check the local listings for screenings of the annual Tokyo International Lesbian & Gay Film & Video Festival (%6475-0388; www.tokyo-lgff.org).

The following are some websites well worth perusing when planning your travels: Fridae (www.fridae.com/cityguides/tokyo/tk-intro.php) Gay Scene Japan (www.members.tripod.co.jp/GSJ) Utopia Asia (www.utopia-asia.com)

See also the boxed text, p180.

HEALTH Dr Trish Batchelor

As a developed city, Tokyo enjoys an excellent standard of medical care. Air pollution is one health issue, but this is unlikely to affect most travellers, apart from those with chronic lung conditions. Travellers have a low risk of contracting infectious diseases but should ensure that their basic vaccinations are up to date and that they carry a basic medical kit to deal with simple problems such as respiratory infections, minor injuries and stomach upsets. At the time this book went to press, human cases of Avian influenza (bird flu) in Japan were extremely limited, and the risk to travellers was low. The strain in question is known as ‘Influenza A H5N1’ or simply ‘the H5N1 virus’, a highly contagious form of Avian influenza. Travellers to the region should avoid contact with any birds and should ensure that any poultry is thoroughly cooked before consumption. See the World Health Organization website (www.who.int/en/) for the latest information. It’s also a good idea to consult your government’s travel-health website before departure. Australia (www.smartraveller.gov.au) Canada (www.travelhealth.gc.ca) New Zealand (www.safetravel.govt.nz) UK (www.nathac.org) USA (wwwn.cdc.gov/travel/)

Medical Services

A national health-insurance plan covers Japanese who wish to visit a doctor, as well as foreign residents who are legally employed. When seeking medical care, be sure to bring proof of your travel or health insurance that clearly indicates that you’re covered for any treatment you receive. If you arrive without insurance, it’s possible to see a doctor at either a hospital or a clinic, but you will be expected to pay in full at the time of service. If your health insurance doesn’t cover you for all medical expenses incurred abroad, you should consider purchasing supplemental travel insurance before leaving home. Evacuations in an emergency can cost well over US$100,000. Travellers should be aware that medical services in Japan might not be on par with those of other developed nations. For simple complaints, you should be fine; for

emergencies, you might have no choice. For elective procedures and anything else that can wait until you get home, we suggest you do just that. Most hospitals and clinics do not have doctors and nurses who speak English, but we’ve listed a few good ones that do.

CLINICS International Medical Center of Japan (Map p122; %3202-7181; www.imcj.go.jp, in Japanese; 1-21-1 Toyama, Shinjuku-ku; bToei Ōedo Line to Wakamatsukawada, main exit) Though the website’s in Japanese, operators on the phone speak English. National Medical Clinic (Map pp96–7; %3473-2057; www.nmclinic.net; 2nd fl, 5-16-11 Minami-Azabu, Minatoku; bHibiya Line to Hiro-o, exits 1 & 2) English-speaking physicians practise general medicine here, and there are also a few specialised services.

DIRECTORY HEALTH

DIRECTORY ELECTRICITY

ELECTRICITY

UK (Map p56; %5211-1100; www.uknow.or.jp/be_e; 1 Ichibanchō, Chiyoda-ku)

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Although the Japanese are no longer censoring pubic hair in domestically produced pornography, customs officers will still confiscate any pornographic materials in which pubic hair is visible. There are no limits on the importation of foreign or Japanese currency. The exportation of foreign currency is also unlimited, but there is a ¥5 million export limit for Japanese currency. Visit the website of Japan Customs (www .customs.go.jp/english/) for more information on Japan’s customs regulations.

Tokyo British Clinic (Map p102; %5458-6099; www .tokyobritishclinic.com; Daikanyama Y Bldg, 2nd fl, 2-13-7 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku; hemergency service 24hr; bHibiya or JR Yamanote Line to Ebisu, west exit) Founded and run by a British physician, this clinic also offers paediatric, obstetric/gynaecological and referral services. Tokyo Medical & Surgical Clinic (Map pp96–7; %34363028, emergency 3432-6134; www.tmsc.jp; 2nd fl, Mori Bldg, 32, 3-4-30 Shiba-kōen, Minato-ku; hemergency service 24hr; bHibiya Line to Kamiyachō, main exit) This well-equipped clinic is staffed with English-speaking Japanese and foreign physicians.

EMERGENCY ROOMS Japanese Red Cross Medical Centre (Map pp96–7; %3400-1311; www.med.jrc.or.jp, in Japanese; 4-1-22 Hiro-o, Shibuya-ku; h24hr; bHibiya Line to Hiro-o, exits 1 & 2) Seibo International Catholic Hospital (Map pp48–9; %3951-1111; www.seibokai.or.jp, in Japanese; 2-5-1 Nakaochiai, Shinjuku-ku; bJR Yamanote Line to Mejiro, main exit) St Luke’s International Hospital (Map p65; %35415151; www.luke.or.jp; 9-1 Akashichō, Chūō-ku; h24hr; bHibiya Line to Tsukiji, exits 3 & 4)

PHARMACIES Pharmacies are located throughout Tokyo, although a bit of Japanese helps in getting the medication or item you need, as most pharmacists only speak basic (if any at all) English. Although Japanese law prohibits pharmacists from selling medications from

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National Azabu Supermarket Pharmacy (Map pp96–7; %3442-3495; 4-5-2 Minami Azabu, Minato-ku; h9.30am-7pm; bHibiya Line to Hiro-o, exit 2) Inside the National Azabu supermarket (p166).

Recommended Vaccinations

No vaccinations are required for Japan. Your routine vaccinations should be up to date, though travellers at special risk should additionally consider the following: Japanese B encephalitis There is no risk in Tokyo, but there is risk in rural areas of all islands. The risk is highest in the western part of the country from July to October. Tick-borne encephalitis This is present only in the wooded areas of Hokkaidō and is transmitted between April and October. The vaccine is readily available in Europe but can be difficult to find elsewhere.

Diseases

AIDS & STDS AIDS and other STDs can, of course, be contracted anywhere in the world. People carrying STDs often show no signs of infection. Always wear a condom with a new partner; however, some diseases such as herpes and warts cannot be prevented even by using condoms. If, after a sexual encounter, you develop any rash, lumps, discharge, or pain when passing urine, seek medical attention immediately. If you have been sexually active during your travels, have a check-up on your return home. Rates of HIV infection in Japan have increased significantly in the last couple of years. It is predicted that this trend will continue, due in part to unsuccessful government awareness programmes. The majority of cases in Japan are contracted via sexual contact, and more than 60% of newly infected people are under 25 years of age.

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DIARRHOEA Tokyo is a low-risk destination, and the tap water is safe to drink. You could still be unlucky, however, so carrying some antidiarrhoea medication in your medical kit is a good idea.

HEPATITIS B Hepatitis B is a virus spread via bodily fluids, eg through sexual contact, shared needles or unclean medical facilities. It is also the only sexually transmitted disease that can be prevented by vaccination. In the short term, hepatitis B can cause the typical symptoms of hepatitis – jaundice, tiredness, nausea – but long-term consequences can include liver cancer and cirrhosis. Long-term travellers or those who might be exposed to bodily fluids should be vaccinated.

INFLUENZA Influenza (the flu) is primarily transmitted from November to April. The flu is caused by a virus and gives you a high fever, general body aches and generalised respiratory symptoms such as cough, a sore throat and runny nose. If you do happen to get the flu you should rest up and take symptomatic treatment such as pain killers – antibiotics won’t help. All high-risk individuals should ensure that they have been vaccinated before travelling, and all travellers should consider the vaccine if visiting in the winter months. Under some circumstances your doctor might recommend taking antiviral drugs to treat the flu.

JAPANESE B ENCEPHALITIS Japanese B encephalitis (JBE) is not present in Tokyo, but is found in the rural areas of all of the islands, particularly in the west. It is a viral disease transmitted by mosquitoes and is present during the months of July to October. If you are intending to spend more than a month in an affected rural area, you should consider getting vaccinated. JBE is a serious disease without any specific treatment – 30% of those infected will die and a third will suffer permanent brain damage.

Environmental Hazards

AIR POLLUTION

Air pollution is a problem in Tokyo, although the government is taking steps to improve the situation. If you have a lung condition such as asthma or chronic airways disease, speak to your doctor before you travel, and ensure that you have enough of your regular medication with you.

FUGU (PUFFER FISH) This famous delicacy (also known as blowfish or globefish) is strictly controlled, and there have been no deaths related to its ingestion for more than 30 years.

Medications

Some medications cannot be taken into Japan. If you take any regular medication, you should check with your local Japanese embassy whether there is any restriction on taking it into the country.

shiatsu is used to improve the flow of ki. Shiatsu was officially recognised by the Japanese government in 1955 as a therapy in its own right.

HOLIDAYS

Japan has 15 national public holidays. When a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the following Monday is taken as a holiday. You can expect travel and lodgings to be fully booked during Shōgatsu (New Year; 29 December to 6 January), Golden Week (29 April to 5 May) and the O-Bon festival in mid-August; see p16 for more information on festivals. During this time, about the only places open are convenience stores and fastfood joints; if you don’t want to survive on potato chips and fries, make appropriate preparations. Japan’s national public holidays are as follows:

SHIATSU

Ganjitsu (New Year’s Day) 1 January Seijin-no-hi (Coming-of-Age Day) Second Monday in January Kenkoku Kinem-bi (National Foundation Day) 11 February Shumbun-no-hi (Spring Equinox) 20 or 21 March Midori-no-hi (Green Day) 29 April Kempō Kinem-bi (Constitution Day) 3 May Kokumin-no-Saijitsu (Adjoining Holiday Between Two Holidays) 4 May Kodomo-no-hi (Children’s Day) 5 May Umi-no-hi (Marine Day) Third Monday in July Keirō-no-hi (Respect-for-the-Aged Day) Third Monday in September Shūbun-no-hi (Autumn Equinox) 23 or 24 September Taiiku-no-hi (Health and Sports Day) Second Monday in October Bunka-no-hi (Culture Day) 3 November Kinrō Kansha-no-hi (Labour Thanksgiving Day) 23 November Tennō-no-Tanjōbi (Emperor’s Birthday) 23 December

Shiatsu is a form of manual therapy incorporating gentle manipulations and stretches derived from physiotherapy and chiropractic, combined with pressure techniques exerted through the fingers or thumbs. The philosophy underlying shiatsu is similar to many traditional Asian medical systems and involves the body’s vital energy (ki) flowing through the body in a series of channels known as meridians. If the ki is blocked from flowing freely, illness can occur; hence

For a city as efficiency-obsessed as technologyloving Tokyo, wi-fi access is less than widespread. But for the millions emailing away via the keitai (mobile phones) attached to their thumbs, wi-fi is probably irrelevant anyway. Still, you needn’t search too hard for wi-fi hotspots. NTT Communications sells 24-hour

Traditional Medicine

If you decide to have any traditional medical treatments, make sure you tell your practitioner if you are taking any Western medicines. The two best-known forms of traditional Japanese medicine are reiki and shiatsu.

REIKI Reiki claims to heal by charging the life force (ki) with positive energy, thus allowing it to flow in a natural, healthy manner. In a standard treatment reiki energy flows from the practitioner’s hands into the client. The practitioner places their hands on or near the client’s body in a series of positions that are each held for between three and 10 minutes. People become practitioners after receiving an ‘attunement’ from a reiki master.

DIRECTORY HOLIDAYS

DIRECTORY HEALTH

American Pharmacy (Map pp52–3; %5220-7716; www.tomods.jp, in Japanese; basement 1st fl, Marunouchi Bldg, 2-4-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat, 10am-8pm Sun & holidays; bJR Yamanote or Marunouchi Line to Tokyo, Marunouchi exits) The American Pharmacy is staffed by English-speaking pharmacists, and credit cards are accepted. There’s another branch inside Ueno Station (Map p72) on the JR Yamanote Line.

Condoms are widely available in Tokyo, but generally only locally produced varieties, which tend to be on the small side. If you think you’re going to need them, it’s a good idea to bring your own, since foreign-made condoms can be difficult to find.

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other countries, they will generally be able to help you find a Japanese medication that is either identical or similar to the one you take at home. The pharmacies listed below cater to English-speaking customers.

INTERNET ACCESS

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Human Rights Counseling Center for Foreigners (%5689-0518; h1-4.30pm Tue & Thu) Free consultation and English-Japanese translation on problems regarding human rights. Tokyo English Life Line (TELL; %5774-0992; h9am11pm) Tokyo Foreign Residents Advisory Center (%53207744; h9.30am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri)

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Stop by the Tourist Information Center of the Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO; p255) to pick up a free copy of its superb Tourist Map of Tokyo. To successfully interpret and navigate Tokyo’s challenging address system, longer-term visitors might consider looking up Kodansha’s Tokyo City Atlas, a bilingual guide stocked by larger bookshops. Both Kodansha and Shobunsha (Japanese publishers) publish bilingual atlases and fold-out maps (prices start at ¥700) that are available at most of Tokyo’s bookshops (see p143 for listings). The Tokyo Metro Company puts out the free Tokyo Metro Guide, with Englishlanguage explanations on buying tickets and special deals. Find these near the ticket machines and turnstiles in most subway stations.

MONEY

Be warned that cold hard cash is the way to pay in Tokyo. Although credit cards are becoming more common, cash is still the payment of choice, and travellers cheques are rarely accepted outside of large hotels and department stores. Do not assume that you can pay with a credit card, and always carry sufficient cash. The currency in Japan is the yen (¥), and banknotes and coins are easily distinguishable. There are ¥1, ¥5, ¥10, ¥50, ¥100 and ¥500 coins; and ¥1000, ¥2000, ¥5000 and ¥10,000 banknotes (the ¥2000 note is very rarely seen). The ¥1 coin is an aluminium lightweight coin; the bronze-coloured ¥5 and silver-coloured ¥50 coins both have a hole punched in the middle. Note that some vending machines do not accept older ¥500 coins. Prices may be listed using the kanji for yen (円).

noon Sat) have postal ATMs. Press the handy

button marked ‘English Guidance’ for English instructions.

Changing Money

In theory, banks and post offices will change all major currencies. In practice, some banks refuse to exchange anything but US-dollar cash and travellers cheques. Note also that the currencies of neighbouring Taiwan (New Taiwan dollar) and Korea (won) are not easy to change, so you should change these into yen or US dollars before arriving in Japan. With a passport, you can change cash or travellers cheques at any Authorised Foreign Exchange Bank (signs are displayed in English), major post offices, some large hotels and most big department stores. Note that you receive a better exchange rate when withdrawing cash from ATMs than when exchanging cash or travellers cheques in Tokyo. Be aware that many banks place a limit on the amount of cash you can withdraw in one day (often around US$400). Exchange rates are listed on the inside front cover of this guide.

Credit Cards

As Japan is very much a cash-based economy, never assume you can pay using a credit card. For businesses which do take credit card, Visa is most widely accepted, followed by MasterCard, American Express and Diners Club. Getting a cash advance using your foreign-issued credit card is nearly impossible, but Sumitomo Mitsui banks (SMBC) give cash advances if you bring your passport with you. The main credit-card companies all have offices in Tokyo. American Express (%0120-02-0120; h24hr)

ATMs

ATMs are almost as common as vending machines in Tokyo. Unfortunately, most of these do not accept foreign-issued cards. Even if they display Visa and MasterCard logos, most accept only Japan-issued versions of these cards. Also, 24-hour ATMs are exceedingly rare. Fortunately, Citibank operates 24-hour international ATMs in major areas including Roppongi, Harajuku, Omote-sandō and Shinjuku. Better still, the Japanese postal system has recently linked all of its ATMs to the international Cirrus and Plus cash networks (and some credit-card networks), making life a breeze for travellers to Tokyo. Most larger post offices (h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-

MasterCard (%5728-5200) Visa (%00531-44-0022; h24hr)

NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES

The three English dailies listed below serve the city’s international community and are sold at most of the big train-station kiosks. Two English magazines, the weekly Metropolis and the quarterly Tokyo Journal, round out coverage of local news, dining and entertainment.

ORGANISED TOURS

Though exploring Tokyo on your own offers distinct pleasures, it can be daunting at first. Listed are several touring companies that can help introduce you to the metropolis by land, sea, air or even on foot. Most have websites in English, as well as English-speaking staff. All prices quoted in this section are per person.

Boat

If you’ve come with a gang and want a very Japanese experience, Komatsuya (%3851-2780; www.komatuya.net, in Japanese; tours per person ¥10,00020,000) arranges for groups of 15 and up to

cruise the city’s waterways while enjoying Japanese cuisine in a tatami-room setting on a Japanese-style boat. Even the website is in Japanese. Sumida-Gawa Water Buses (%3841-9178; www .suijobus.co.jp/english/; tours ¥200-800; bGinza Line to Asakusa, exit 5, or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa, exit A5 for Azuma-bashi Pier) offers extremely reasonably

priced ferry rides under the 12 bridges up and down Sumida-gawa (see p87). A unique new boat, Himiko, was designed especially for Suijō Bus by the cartoonist Matsumoto Reiji and looks like a bug from the future. Symphony (%3798-8101; www.symphony-cruise.co.jp; tours adult ¥1500-3800, child ¥750-1900; bJR Yamanote Line to JR Hamamatsu-cho, south exit, for Hinode Pier) offers

two-hour day and evening cruises around the bay, departing from Hinode Pier. If you lunch or dine on board, you’ll pay ¥5000 to ¥21,000 (including passage) depending on the type of meal you choose. The restaurant boat Vingt-et-un (%3436-2121; cruises from ¥2040, dinner cruises from ¥7000; bYurikamome Line to Takshiba for Takeshiba Pier) offers evening din-

ner excursions as well as afternoon cruises on weekends. The evening dinner cruises usually include excellent French meals. Reservations are essential. Passengers may be able to board without purchasing a meal, but there are no special seats and, no, you can’t bring your own food.

Bus

Daily Yomiuri (www.yomiuri.co.jp/dy)

The well-established, commercial tour operators recommended here all have an extensive line-up of tours, including many in English. While buses are their stock in trade, some also offer boat and walking tours. Without getting fancy, Gray Line buses

Japan Times (www.japantimes.co.jp)

(%3595-5948; www.jgl.co.jp/inbound/index.htm; tours

Asahi Shimbun/International Herald Tribune (www .asahi.com/english/)

DIRECTORY NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES

DIRECTORY LEGAL MATTERS

LEGAL MATTERS

Japanese police have extraordinary powers compared with their Western counterparts. For starters, Japanese police have the right to detain a suspect without charging them for up to three days, after which a prosecutor can decide to extend this period for another 20 days. Police also have the authority to choose whether to allow a suspect to phone their embassy or lawyer or not, although, if you do find yourself in police custody, you should insist that you will not cooperate in any way until allowed to make such a call. Your embassy is the first place you should call if given the chance. Police will speak almost no English; insist that a tsuyakusha (interpreter) be summoned; police are legally bound to provide one before proceeding with any questioning. Even if you are able to speak Japanese, it is best to deny it and stay with your native language. For legal counselling in English and some other languages, seek out these resources:

MAPS

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passes (¥500) to its wireless network, with hotspots throughout Tokyo. Prepaid cards can be purchased at some branches of Bic Camera and Prince Hotels; check NTT Communication’s website (www.ntt.com) for hotspot locations and purchasing information. Some hotels offer wi-fi, but usually for a fee: from ¥1000 to ¥2000. Free wi-fi is scattered around Tokyo in cafés, public buildings and JR stations – check the Freespot access map (www.freespot.com/ users/map_e.html) for locations offering fee-free wi-fi. If you haven’t brought your own laptop, you’ll find an abundance of internet cafés in every major neighbourhood in Tokyo. Rates vary, usually ranging from ¥200 to ¥500 per hour, and most connections are fast DSL or ADSL. Most hotels have in-room LAN ports and can rent or sell you a LAN cable; electronics shops also carry them for about ¥500.

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Tours (% 5796-5454; www.jtbgmt.com/sunrisetour/; tours ¥3500-9800) are not much different from

those of the other tour companies, but as a subsidiary of Japan Travel Bureau (JTB), the country’s largest travel company, it boasts an extensive roster of day trips and tours in other parts of Japan. Some are return trips from Tokyo, while others originate in other big Japanese cities. If you have got time to kill at the airport, it even offers a worthwhile tour of Narita city.

Helicopter

Excel Air (%047-380-5555; www.excel-air.com; Urayasu Heliport; flights adult/child from ¥8000/4000; h2pm-dusk; bJR Keiyo Line to Urayasu then 15min by taxi) offers five-

to 20-minute flights, which are a dramatic way to take in the skyline of Ginza, the Imperial Palace or Akihabara during the day, at sunset or after dark. Helicopters fly up to eight people. Saturday and Sunday flights cost about 25% more. Flights depart from Urayasu city, east of Tokyo in Chiba Prefecture. Reserve a seat in advance.

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Walking

Operated by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government, volunteer guide tours (www.tourism.metro .tokyo.jp; for the first person free-¥2860 , may be less for additional people) facilitate face-to-face contact

with real Tokyoites. Some volunteers speak better English than others, but you can’t beat the price. Since the guides work on a volunteer basis, visitors pay only admission and transport fees for themselves and the two guides. Itineraries that involve no transport or admissions cost nothing. The 10 routes include the highly touristic (eg Asakusa) and the less touristic (eg department-store food floor). Tour sizes are limited to a handful of people per tour; apply at least a few days in advance.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Digital photographers will find all manner of memory media, batteries and digital cameras widely available. Japan’s photo shops also offer a wide range of services for digital photographers, including high-quality prints from digital files. Most photo-processing shops, as well as department stores and even 7-Eleven convenience stores, can also transfer digital shots onto CD for you; there’s usually a two-day turnaround period. Tokyo is one of the best places in the world to buy camera equipment, although be aware that most products have Japanese operating menus. However, some of the larger electronics stores in Akihabara (p67) stock export models with English-language systems. You’ll have no problem finding print film in Tokyo, and high-quality slide film is widely available at camera shops throughout town (see p146). Film processing is fast and economical and standards are usually high. Serious photographers might want to pick up a copy of Lonely Planet’s Travel Photography.

POST

The Japanese postal system is reliable and efficient and, for regular postcards and airmail letters, has rates similar to those of other developed countries. The symbol for post offices is a red T with a bar across the top on a white background (〒). For information on courier services see p238.

Opening Hours

some main cities and tourist areas covered in this guide. For local directory assistance, dial %104. To place a domestic collect call, dial %106. For international directory assistance in English, dial %0057. To place an international call through the operator, dial %0051 (international operators almost always speak English).

Postal Rates

Before you stash your mobile (cell) phone into your carry-on luggage, consider that your fancy tri-band GSM phone won’t work in Japan, unless it supports the nonubiquitous CDMA standard. The good news is that several companies now offer short-term mobile-phone rentals for travellers and businesspeople. Rates are quite reasonable, from around ¥3000 per week. Many offer free delivery or have rental counters at Narita airport. Check out the following outfits:

District post offices (the main post office in a ward) are open 9am to 7pm weekdays and 9am to 3pm Saturday, and are closed Sunday and public holidays. Local post offices are open 9am to 5pm weekdays and are closed Saturday, Sunday and public holidays. Main post offices in Tokyo, Shibuya, Shinjuku and Ikebukero have an after-hours window open 24 hours.

The airmail rate for postcards is ¥70 to any destination abroad; aerograms cost ¥90. Letters less than 25g are ¥90 to other countries within Asia, ¥110 to North America, Europe or Oceania (including Australia and New Zealand) and ¥130 to Africa and South America. One peculiarity of the Japanese postal system is that you will be charged extra if your writing runs over onto the address side (the right side) of a postcard.

Receiving & Sending Mail

Although any post office will hold mail for collection, the poste restante concept is not well known and can cause confusion in smaller neighbourhoods. The Tokyo Central Post Office (Map pp52–3; %3560-1139) can give you more information about large post offices that can receive and handle your mail. Letters are usually held for only 30 days before being returned to sender. When inquiring about mail for collection ask for ‘kyoku dome yūbin’. Mail can be sent to, from or within Japan when addressed in Roman script (romaji), but it should, of course, be written as clearly as possible.

TELEPHONE

The country code for Japan is %81. Japanese telephone numbers consist of an area code (Tokyo’s is %03) plus a local number; Tokyo numbers usually consist of eight digits. The area code is not used if dialling a Tokyo number from within Tokyo. You do not dial an area code’s first zero if dialling from abroad. For example, when dialling Tokyo from abroad, dial the international access code of the country from which you are calling, then %81-3. If you’re calling from anywhere but Tokyo within Japan, dial %03 and then the number. Toll-free numbers begin with %0120. Also see the Quick Reference (inside front cover) for a list of area codes for

Mobile Phones

DIRECTORY TELEPHONE

DIRECTORY PHOTOGRAPHY

Imperial Palace, Asakusa, Sensō-ji and the National Diet buildings. Tours run for either a half- or full day and sometimes include meals, usually at traditional Japanese restaurants. Pick-up and drop-off are available at dozens of hotels. One of the longest-standing tour operators is Hato Bus Tours (%3435-6081; www.hatobus.com; tours ¥3500-12,000), which offers both half- and fullday tours around the city. It hits big spots such as Sensō-ji and Tsukiji Central Fish Market, or offers tourists the chance to head out on the bay. If you’re feeling daunted by the subway, check out the subway tour that alights at sites that recount the importance and beauty of the Edo era. Some tours also include meals. If your time is limited, Hato also operates one-hour tours aboard the Hello Kitty Bus (adult/child ¥1300/760) departing from Tokyo Station (check for departure times with Hato Bus Tours). One route covers basics such as Nihombashi, Akihabara and Asakusa, and the other goes west of the Imperial Palace. Unlike with other tours, you stay on the bus the whole time and guides narrate in Japanese only; English narration is available via headphones. Apart from that, it’s a pretty typical tour bus, although it is decorated with the cat with no mouth. Within the city, the offerings of Sunrise

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¥4000-9600) chug along to places such as the

DoCoMo (%0120-68-0100; www.docomosentu .co.jp/english/) GoMobile (www.gomobile.co.jp/index_e.html) PuPuRu (%0120-91-9226; www.pupuru.com/en/ index_en.html) Rentafone Japan (%090-9621-7318; www.rentafone japan.com)

If you’re planning on spending any extended amount of time in Japan, we can’t stress how important it is to get a mobile phone. The Japanese spend every waking hour of the day mailing their friends from their phones, and it’s virtually impossible to stay connected to people if you don’t have one. If you have a valid work visa, it’s possible to sign a oneyear contract and get a phone for as cheap as ¥1 depending on the type of package you choose. If you don’t have a visa, you can still get a prepaid phone, though calling rates are significantly higher. Mobile phone shops dot virtually every street in Tokyo, so you shouldn’t have any problem finding what you’re looking for. Most mobile phone shops have someone on hand who can speak English, or at least supply you with English-language pamphlets explaining the various contract options available.

Public Phones

The Japanese public telephone system is very well developed; there are a great many public phones and they work almost 100% of the

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International Calls

International calls are best made using a prepaid international phone card. You can also call abroad on grey international ISDN phones, usually found in phone booths marked ‘International & Domestic Card/Coin Phone’. Unfortunately, these are rare; look for them in the lobbies of top-end hotels and at airports. Reverse-charge (collect) international calls can be made from any pay phone. You can save money by dialling late at night. Economy rates, with a discount of 20%, apply 7pm to 11pm weekdays, and 8am to 11pm on weekends and public holidays. Discount rates of 40% off the regular rate apply 11pm to 8am throughout the year. In some youth hostels and guesthouses, you will also find pink coin-only phones from which you cannot make international calls (although you can receive them). If you find a public phone that allows international calls, it’s more convenient to use a phone card rather than coins. Calls are charged by six-second units, so if you don’t have much to say, you can make a quick call home for the minimum charge of ¥100.

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Country

Home Country Direct Dial

Australia Canada China France New Zealand UK USA

%0039-61 %0039-1 %0039-86 %0039-33 %0039-64 %0039-44 %0039-1

To make the call yourself, dial %001 (KDDI), %0041 (ITJ), %0061 (IDC) or %0033 (NTT) – there’s very little difference in the rates of these providers – then the country code, the local code and the number.

TIME

Tokyo local time is nine hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). When it’s noon in Tokyo, it’s 7pm (the day before) in Los Angeles, 10pm in Montreal and New York, 3am (the same day) in London, 4am in Frankfurt, Paris and Rome, 11am in Hong Kong, 3pm in Melbourne and 5pm in Wellington. Japan does not observe daylight-savings-time, so remember to subtract one hour when working out the time difference with a country using daylight-savings-time.

TIPPING & BARGAINING

Despite the high quality of customer service in Japan, it is not customary to tip, even in the most expensive restaurants and bars. Bargaining is not customary either, with the exception of outdoor markets, such as Ameyoko in Ueno (see p70).

TOILETS

In Japan you will come across everything from the automated wash-and-dry Toto toilets to the somewhat more humble Asian squat toilets. If you’ve never had the pleasure of having your back end washed and dried by a ma-

chine, the trick is to select exactly the right water temperature and pressure – and don’t forget to relax the muscles! When you need to squat, the correct position is facing the hood, away from the door. Make sure the contents of your pockets don’t spill out! Toilet paper isn’t always provided, so always graciously accept those small packets of tissue handed out on the street, a common form of advertising. In many bathrooms in Japan, separate toilet slippers are often provided just inside the toilet door. These are for use in the toilet only, so remember to shuffle out of them when you leave. It’s quite common to see men urinating in public – the unspoken rule is that it’s acceptable at night time if you happen to be drunk. Public toilets are free and can usually be found in or around most train stations. If you’re not near a train station, department stores are always a good bet, and convenience stores have clean public toilets that are often available 24 hours a day.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Japan’s tourist information services (観光 案内所, kankō annai-sho) are first rate, and the Tokyo branch of the Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO; www.jnto.go.jp) is the best of the bunch. JNTO is the main English-language information service for foreign travellers to Japan and produces a great deal of useful literature, which is available from its offices abroad and its Tourist Information Centers (TICs) inside Japan. Most publications are available in English and, in some cases, other European and Asian languages. JNTO’s website is very useful for planning your journey. JNTO operates two main TICs in Tokyo:

In addition to its main offices listed, JNTO operates 111 English-language Tourist Information Centers throughout Japan. The centres are usually found in the main train stations of major Japanese cities. Look for the red question mark with the word ‘information’ printed beneath it. Other helpful places about town include the following: Asakusa Tourist Information Center (Map p86; %5246-1151; 4-5-6 Higashi-Ueno, Taitō-ku; h10am5pm; bGinza or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa, exit A4) Awaiting you in Asakusa, this excellent place is staffed with friendly local experts who can arrange free neighbourhood tours with English-speaking guides. Tokyo Convention & Visitors Bureau (TCVB; Map pp52–3; %3287-7024; 1st fl, 3-2-2 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, Sun & holidays; bChiyoda, Hibiya or Toei Mita Lines to Hibiya, exit B7) Tokyo Tourist Information Center Tochō (TIC; Map p116; Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices, North Tower, 1st fl, 2-8-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; bToei Ōedo Line to Tochōmae, exit A4)

If you’re looking to use a licensed, professional tourist guide you could contact the Japan Guide Association (%3213-2706; www.jga21c .or.jp/f_introduction.html).

Tourist Offices Abroad

JNTO has a number of offices abroad including the following: Australia (%02-9251 3024; www.jnto.go.jp/syd/index .html; Level 18, Australia Square Tower, 264 George St, Sydney, NSW 2000) Canada (%416-366-7140; www.japantravelinfo.com; Suite 306, 481 University Avenue, Toronto, Ontario M5G 2E9 Canada)

Narita (%0476-34-6251; 1st fl, Terminals 1 & 2, Narita Airport, Chiba; h9am-8pm)

France (%01 42 96 20 29; www.tourisme-japon.fr; 4 Rue de Ventadour, 75001 Paris)

Tokyo (Map p62; %3216-1901; 10th fl, Kōtsū Kaikan Bldg, 2-10-1 Yūrakuchō, Chiyoda-ku; h9am-5pm MonFri, 9am-noon Sat; bJR Yamanote Line to Yūrakuchō, exit A8)

Germany (%069-20353; [email protected]; Kaiserstrasse 11, 60311 Frankfurt am Main)

TIC staff cannot make transport bookings; they can, however, direct you to agencies that can, such as the Japan Travel Bureau (JTB; Map pp48–9; %5321-3077; Main Office Tokyo Metropolitan Government Bldg, 1st fl, Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building No 1; h9.30am-6.30pm, closed year-end & New Year period).

DIRECTORY TOURIST INFORMATION

DIRECTORY TIME

Global Card These cards are only available at discount ticket shops and some guesthouses. IC Card Sold from machines that accompany IC phones, these cards can only be used with the orange IC phones. KDDI Superworld Card Find these cards at almost any convenience store in Japan.

Another option for making international calls is to dial %0039 for home country direct, which takes you straight through to a local operator in the country dialled (your home country direct code can be found in phone books or by calling the international operator on %0051). You can then make a reverse-charge call or a credit-card call with a phone card valid in that country. Some dialling codes are given below:

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time. Local calls cost ¥10 for three minutes. Long-distance calls require a handful of coins or a telephone card, which are used up as the call progresses; unused ¥10 coins are returned after the call is completed, but no change is given on ¥100 coins. It’s more economical to make domestic calls by dialling outside the standard business hours. For local calls it’s still much easier to buy a terefon kādo (prepaid phone card) than to worry about having enough coins, as most pay phones will accept phone cards. Prepaid cards are available from vending machines and convenience stores in ¥500 and ¥1000 denominations (the latter throws in an extra ¥50 in calls). They can be used in most grey or green pay phones, and the phones will display the remaining value of your card when it is inserted. With the exception of the IC card, the following cards can be used with any regular pay phone in Japan.

UK (%020-7734 9638; www.seejapan.co.uk; Heathcoat House, 20 Savile Row, London W1S 3PR) USA (www.japantravelinfo.com); Los Angeles (%213623-1952; Suite 1470, 515 South Figueroa St, Los Angeles, CA 90071); New York (%212-757-5640; Suite 1250, 1 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, NY 10020); San Francisco (%415-292 5686; Suite 250C, 1 Daniel Burnham Crt, San Francisco, CA 94109)

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TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES

Many new buildings in Tokyo have access ramps, traffic lights have speakers playing melodies when it is safe to cross, train platforms have raised dots and lines to provide guidance and some ticket machines have Braille. Some attractions also offer free entry to travellers with disabilities and a companion. A fair number of hotels, from the higher end of midrange and above, offer a ‘universal’ (meaning ‘universally accessible’) room or two. Still, Tokyo can be rather difficult for travellers with disabilities to negotiate, especially visitors in wheelchairs who are often forced to make a choice between negotiating stairs or rerouting. For more information check out the following websites: Accessible Japan (www.wakakoma.org/aj) Details the accessibility of hundreds of sites in Tokyo, including hotels, sights and department stores, as well as general information about getting around Japan. Japanese Red Cross Language Service Volunteers (Map pp96–7; %3438-1311; http://accessible.jp.org; 1-1-3 Shiba Daimon, Minato-ku, Tokyo 105-8521) Has loads of useful information, and it also produces an excellent guide called Accessible Tokyo, which can be requested by email, mail or telephone – or found on its website.

VISAS

Generally, visitors who are not planning to engage in income-producing activities while in Japan are exempt from obtaining visas and will be issued a tanki-taizai (temporary visitor visa) on arrival. Stays of up to six months are permitted for citizens of Austria, Germany, Ireland, Mexico, Switzerland and the UK. Citizens of these

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Center (Tokyo Regional Immigration Bureau; Map pp48–9; %5796-7112; www.moj.go.jp/ENGLISH/; 5-5-30 Kōnan, Minato-ku; h9am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri; bTokyo Monorail or Rinkai Line to Tennozu Isle).

Alien Registration Card

Anyone – and this includes tourists – who stays for more than 90 days is required to obtain a gaikokujin torokushō (Alien Registration Card). This card can be obtained at the municipal office of the city, town or ward in which you’re living. Moving to another area requires that you reregister within 14 days. You must carry your Alien Registration Card at all times as the police can stop you and ask to see the card. If you don’t have it, you could be hauled off to the police station to wait until someone fetches it for you – providing you have one.

Visa Extensions

With the exception of those nationals whose countries have reciprocal visa exemptions and can stay for six months, the limit for most nationalities is 90 days. To extend a temporary visitor visa beyond the standard limit, apply at the Immigration Information Center (Tokyo Regional Immigration Bureau; see above). You must provide two copies of an Application for Extension of Stay (available at the immigration office), a letter stating the reasons for the

extension and supporting documentation as well as your passport. There is a processing fee of ¥4000. Many long-term visitors to Japan get around the extension problem by briefly leaving the country, usually by going to South Korea. Be warned, however, that immigration officials are starting to wise up to this practice, and many ‘tourist visa returnees’ are turned back at the entry point.

Work Visas

Ever-increasing demand has prompted much stricter work-visa requirements than previously. Arriving in Japan and looking for a job is quite a tough proposition these days, though people still do it and occasionally succeed in finding sponsorship. With that said, there are legal employment categories for foreigners that specify standards of experience and qualifications. Once you find an employer in Japan who is willing to sponsor you, it is necessary to obtain a Certificate of Eligibility from your nearest Japanese immigration office. The same office can then issue your work visa, which is valid for either one or three years. This procedure can take two to three months. Generally speaking, it is recommended that you arrange your job in Japan prior to arrival. In this case, your employer will arrange your visa in advance, which will save you the hassle of having to enter as a tourist and subsequently change your status.

Working-Holiday Visas

Citizens of Australia, Canada, France, Germany, Korea, New Zealand and the UK can apply for a working-holiday visa if they’re between 18 and 30 (the upper age limit for UK citizens is officially 25, but this is negotiable). This visa allows a six-month stay and two sixmonth extensions. The visa is designed to enable young people to travel extensively during their stay; thus, employment is supposed to be part-time or temporary. In practice, many people work full-time. A working-holiday visa is much easier to obtain than a work visa and is popular with Japanese employers. Single applicants must have the equivalent of US$2000 of funds, a married couple must have US$3000, and all applicants must have an onward ticket from Japan. For details, inquire at the nearest Japanese embassy or consulate (see p246).

WOMEN TRAVELLERS

Japan is one of the safest countries in the world for women travellers. Compared with the West, Japan has a much lower incidence of violent crime, including rape. As a result, women should have no problem walking alone down the streets of Tokyo, even at night. Of course, as with any unfamiliar destination, it’s best to use your discretion and keep your guard up at all times. If you do experience a problem and find the local police unhelpful, call the Human Rights Counseling Center for Foreigners (see p250). It’s worth mentioning, however, that women who have spent a considerable amount of time in Japan have probably experienced some form of sexual harassment. Jam-packed trains can provide opportunities for the roving hands of chikan (gropers). A loud complaint usually shames the perpetrator into retreating. To avoid the possibility altogether, ride in the womenonly train carriages during rush hour. Finally, an excellent resource for any woman setting up in Japan is Caroline Pover’s book Being A Broad in Japan; find it in bookshops or order from her website (www .being-a-broad.com).

DIRECTORY WOMEN TRAVELLERS

DIRECTORY TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES

Japanese regulations on the importation of live animals are very strict, and are not waived for guide dogs. Dogs brought from countries in which rabies has been eradicated need not be quarantined, provided their owners can show a yūshutsu shomeisho (exportation certificate). Dogs arriving from countries in which rabies occurs will be placed into quarantine for up to six months, unless their owners can supply an exportation certificate, veterinary examination certification and written proof of rabies vaccination.

countries will almost always be given a 90-day temporary visitor visa upon arrival, which can usually be extended for another 90 days at immigration bureaus inside Japan (see Visa Extensions, below). Citizens of the USA, Australia and New Zealand are granted 90-day temporary visitor visas, while stays of up to three months are permitted for citizens of Argentina, Belgium, Canada, Denmark, Finland, France, Iceland, Israel, Italy, Netherlands, Norway, Singapore, Spain, Sweden and a number of other countries. For additional information on visas and regulations, contact the nearest Japanese embassy or consulate in your country, or visit the website of the Japan Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.mofa.go.jp) where you can check out the Guide to Japanese Visas, read about workingholiday visas and find details on the Japan Exchange and Teaching (JET) programme, which sponsors native English speakers to teach in the Japanese public-school system. You can also contact the Immigration Information

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BRINGING GUIDE DOGS TO JAPAN

WORK

Finding work in Tokyo is possible, but it’s not as easy nor as lucrative as it used to be. Teaching English is still the most common job for Westerners, but bartending, hostessing, modelling and various other jobs are also possible. Whatever line of work you choose, it is essential to look neat and tidy for interviews – appearances can make or break you in Japan. You’ll also need to be determined, and you should have a sizable sum of money to float on while you’re looking for work, and possibly to get you out of the country if you don’t find any (it happens). Foreigners who have set up in Japan over the last few years maintain that a figure of around US$5000 or more is necessary to make a go of it. People do it with less, but they run the risk of ending up penniless and homeless before they find a job. Be advised that business cards (meishi) carry much more weight in Japan than they do in the West. Information about a person’s status and, perhaps even more importantly, their connections can be obtained from business cards, which are ritually exchanged on first meeting. It’s good form to accept cards with both hands and examine them before

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tucking them away into your purse or wallet. If attending a meeting, the card should be left on the table until the end of the meeting, and only afterwards be respectfully put away.

Bartending

DIRECTORY WORK

In the tourist-friendly entertainment district of Roppongi (p94), foreign bartenders are the rule rather than the exception. As little as five years ago, it was not necessary to have a valid work visa to work in Roppongi as the majority of establishments were perfectly willing to pay tourists under the table. Of course, bartenders were expected to work 80+ hours a week for little more than pocket change (there are no tips in Japan), though when you’re down and out, a job is a job. Following a recent crackdown on illegal workers, however, the Roppongi nightlife scene is slowly turning legit. Today, few establishments are willing to take a chance by hiring a tourist, though the upside is that wages have slightly increased. Although you cannot expect a bar to sponsor a work visa, mixing cocktails in the evenings is a great way to supplement the meagre pay of an English teacher.

English Teaching

Teaching English has always been the most popular job for native English speakers in Japan. While it’s a fairly common option, competition for the good jobs is very tight since many English schools have failed as a result of Japan’s weakened economy. A university degree is an absolute essential as schools cannot sponsor you for a work visa without one (be sure to bring the actual degree with you to Japan). Teaching qualifications and some teaching experience will be of huge advantage when job hunting. Consider organising a job before arriving in Japan. Big schools such as Geos (www.geoscareer .com) and Nova (www.teachinjapan.com) have recruitment programmes in the USA and the UK. With that said, working conditions at the big ‘factory schools’ are pretty dire compared with the smaller schools that recruit within Japan. Travellers without a degree who can take advantage of the Japanese working-holiday visa (p257) are in a much better position than those who cannot. Schools are happier about taking on unqualified teachers if it means that they don’t have to bother with sponsoring a teacher for a work visa. For job listings, start with the following:

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Dave’s ESL Café (www.eslcafe.com) ELT News (www.eltnews.com) GaijinPot (www.gaijinpot.com) Japan Times (http://classified.japantimes.com/career)

Hostessing

Hostess clubs, which are a common feature of Japan’s entertainment industry, employ female staff to serve men drinks, and engage them in conversation. Unlike strips clubs or brothels, hostesses are not forced to remove their clothes or engage in sex with customers, though they can be encouraged to meet clients (and perform favours) outside of working hours. Hostessing is a popular employment option among young foreign women in Japan as few places require valid visas, and salaries can sometimes reach hundreds of dollars per hour. Particularly attractive or popular hostesses can also receive gifts from clients, such as jewellery, clothing, trips and even cars. Of course, there are dangers. In 1992, Carita Ridgeway, an Australian hostess, was drugged and killed after a paid date. In 2000, Lucie Blackman, an English hostess, was abducted, raped and murdered by a customer. Hostessing has inherent dangers, which is why we cannot recommend that anyone consider the job as a viable and sustainable form of employment in Japan. With that said, if you do decide to accept a hostessing job, be sure that you understand the nature of your employment, and know the extent of your personal boundaries.

Modelling

As one of the world’s greatest fashion capitals, Tokyo is a lucrative place to live if you were born with beautiful looks, perfect posture and a healthy dose of poise. Although there’s no denying the beauty of Japanese models, foreigners are all the rage these days, and it’s not difficult to find the faces of your favourite Hollywood actors selling everything from mobile phones to canned coffee. Modelling is a legitimate business that can pay extremely well, but you will need to be in possession of a valid work visa. Although there are literally hundreds of agencies in Tokyo, the following list should get you started: Agence Presse (www.agencepresse.com) Bravo Models (www.bravomodels.net) Switch (www.switchmodels.co.jp) World Top (http://worldtop.co.jp)

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L AN G UAG E It’s true – anyone can speak another language. Don’t worry if you haven’t studied languages before or that you studied a language at school for years and can’t remember any of it. It doesn’t even matter if you failed English grammar. After all, that’s never affected your ability to speak English! And this is the key to picking up a language in another country. You just need to start speaking. Learn a few key phrases before you go. Write them on pieces of paper and stick them on the fridge, by the bed or even on the computer – anywhere that you’ll see them often. You’ll find that locals appreciate travellers trying their language, no matter how muddled you may think you sound. So don’t just stand there, say something! If you want to learn more Japanese than we’ve included here, pick up a copy of Lonely Planet’s comprehensive but user-friendly Japanese Phrasebook.

Pronounce double consonants with a slight pause between them, so that each is clearly audible. Vowel length affects meaning, so make sure you distinguish your short and long vowels clearly. Certain vowel sounds (like u and i) aren’t pronounced in some words, but are included as part of the official Romanisation system (which employs a literal system to represent Japanese characters). In the following words and phrases these ‘silent’ letters are shown in square brackets to indicate that they aren’t pronounced. a ā e ē i ii o ō u ū

short, as the ‘u’ in ‘run’ long, as the ‘a’ in ‘father’ short, as in ‘red’ long, as the ‘ei’ in ‘rein’ short, as in ‘bit’ long i, as in ‘marine’ short, as in ‘pot’ long, as the ‘aw’ in ‘paw’ short, as in ‘put’ long, as in ‘rude’

Meeting People Hello/Hi.

kurikaeshite speak more slowly motto yukkuri hanash[i]te write it down 書いて

kaite What’s your name? お名前は何ですか?

hai

o-namae wa nan des[u] ka? My name is … 私の名前は…です。

No. いえ。

繰り返して

sayōnara

Yes. はい。

… kuremasen ka? repeat that

konnichi wa

Goodbye. さようなら。

Could you please …? …くれませんか?

もっとゆっくり話して

SOCIAL こんにちは。

Please. (when offering something) どうぞ。 dōzo (when asking a favour or making a request) お願いします。 onegai shimas[u] Thank you (very much). (どうも)ありがとう (dōmo) arigatō (ございます)。 (gozaimas[u]) You’re welcome. どういたしまして。 dō itashimash[i]te Excuse me. (to get attention or to get past) すみません。 sumimasen Sorry. ごめんなさい。 gomen nasai

LANGUAGE PRONUNCIATION

PRONUNCIATION

iie

watashi no namae wa … des[u]

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Do you speak English?

Which?

英語が話せますか?

どちら?

eigo ga hanasemas[u] ka? Do you understand?

When? Where?

wakarimash[i]ta ka? Yes, I do understand.

どこ?

はい、わかりました。

hai, wakarimash[i]ta No, I don’t understand.

itsu?

Banking

call (Singapore)

…をお願いします。

(shingapōru) ni denwa shi make a (local) call

(シンガポール)に電話し

I’d like to … … o onegai shimas[u] cash a cheque

doko?

小切手の現金化

How? どのように? dono yō ni? How much does it cost? いくらですか? ikura des[u] ka?

kogitte no genkinka change a travellers cheque トラベラーズチェックの現金化

(市内)に電話し

(shinai) ni denwa shi reverse the charges コレクトコールで電話し

korekuto-kōru de denwa shi

いいえ、わかりません。

toraberāz[u] chekku no genkinka change money

iie, wakarimasen

両替

…をお願いします。

ryōgae

… o onegai shimas[u] charger for my phone

Numbers

Going Out

What’s on …? …は何がありますか?

どこに行けば…がありますか?

doko ni ikeba … ga arimas[u] ka? clubs クラブ kurabu gay venues ゲイの場所 gei no basho Japanese-style pubs 居酒屋 izakaya places to eat 食事ができる所 shokuji ga dekiru tokoro pubs パブ pabu Is there a local entertainment guide? 地元のエンターテイメントガイドは ありますか?

jimoto no entāteimento gaido wa arimas[u] ka?

Question Words Who? (polite)

dare?/donata?

What?/What is this? 何?/なに?

18 19 20 21 22 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 200 1000

nan?/nani?

ゼロ/零 一 二 三 四 五 六 七 八 九 十 十一 十二 十三 十四 十五 十六 十七 十八 十九 二十 二十一 二十二 三十 四十 五十 六十 七十 八十 九十 百 二百 千

zero/rei ichi ni san shi/yon go roku shichi/nana hachi ku/kyū jū jūichi jūni jūsan jūshi/jūyon jūgo jūroku jūshichi/ jūnana jūhachi jūku/jūkyū nijū nijūichi nijūni sanjū yonjū gojū rokujū nanajū hachijū kyūjū hyaku nihyaku sen

Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday

月曜日 火曜日 水曜日 木曜日 金曜日 土曜日 日曜日

getsuyōbi kayōbi suiyōbi mokuyōbi kinyōbi doyōbi nichiyōbi

携帯電話の充電器

Where’s …? …はどこですか?

… wa doko des[u] ka? an ATM ATM

ētiiemu a foreign exchange office 外国為替セクション

gaikoku kawase sekushon

keitaidenwa no jūdenki mobile/cell phone for hire 携帯電話のレンタル

keitaidenwa no rentaru prepaid mobile/cell phone プリペイドの携帯電話

puripeido no keitaidenwa SIM card for your network SIMカード

shimukādo

Post

Where is the post office? 郵便局はどこですか?

yūbin kyoku wa doko des[u] ka? I want to send a/an … …を送りたいのですが。

… o okuritai no des[u] ga letter 手紙 tegami parcel 小包 kozutsumi postcard はがき hagaki I want to buy a/an … …をください。

… o kudasai aerogram エアログラム

earoguramu

envelope 封筒

fūtō

Internet

Where’s the local internet café? インターネットカフェはどこですか?

intānetto-kafe wa doko des[u] ka? I’d like to … …したいのですが。

… shitai no des[u] ga check my email Eメールをチェック

iimēru o chekku get internet access インターネットにアクセス

intānetto ni akuses[u]

Transport

When’s the … (bus)? …(バス)は何時ですか?

…たいのですが。

… (bas[u]) wa nan-ji des[u] ka? first 始発の shihatsu no last 最終の saishū no next 次の tsugi no

… tai no des[u] ga buy a phonecard

What time does it leave?

stamp 切手

Days

PRACTICAL だれ?/どなた?

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

I’d like a …

kitte

Phones & Mobiles I want to …

LANGUAGE PRACTICAL

LANGUAGE PRACTICAL

… wa nani ga arimas[u] ka? locally 近所に kinjo ni this weekend 今週の週末 konshū no shūmatsu today 今日 kyō tonight 今夜 konya Where can I find …?

260

いつ?

わかりましたか?

dochira?

テレフォンカードを買い

これは何時に出ますか?

terefon kādo o kai

kore wa nan-ji ni demas[u] ka?

261

What time does it get to ...?

I’m allergic to …

Do you have an English menu?

I’m allergic to (peanuts).

これは…に何時に着きますか?

私は…アレルギーです。

英語のメニューがありますか?

私は(ピーナッツ)アレルギーです。

kore wa ... ni nan-ji ni tsukimas[u] ka? Is this taxi available?

watashi wa … arerugii des[u] antibiotics 抗生物質 kōsei busshitsu aspirin アスピリン as[u]pirin bees 蜂 hachi nuts ナッツ類 nattsurui penicillin ペニシリン penishirin

eigo no menyū ga arimas[u] ka? Can you recommend any dishes?

watashi wa (piinattsu) arerugii des[u]

おすすめの料理がありますか?

Food Glossary

このタクシーは空車ですか?

kono tak[u]shii wa kūsha des[u] ka? Please put the meter on. メーターを入れてください。

mētā o irete kudasai How much is it to …? …までいくらですか?

… made ikura des[u] ka? Please take me to (this address). (この住所)までお願いします。

(kono jūsho) made onegai shimas[u]

EMERGENCIES Help!

たすけて!

緊急です!

kinkyū des[u]! Call the police! 警察を呼んで!

keisatsu o yonde! Call a doctor!

救急車を呼んで!

kyūkyūsha o yonde! Could you please help? たすけてください?

tas[u]kete kudasai? Where’s the police station? 警察署はどこですか?

keisatsusho wa doko des[u] ka?

HEALTH

Where’s the nearest …? この近くの…はどこですか?

kono chikaku no ... wa doko des[u] ka? (night) chemist (24時間営業の)薬局

(nijūyojikan eigyō no) yakkyoku doctor 医者

isha hospital 病院

byōin

サービス料は込みですか?

abalone

sābis[u] ryō wa komi des[u] ka? Cheers!

prawn or shrimp

乾杯!

いただきます!

私は…があります。

itadakimas[u]! Delicious!

watashi wa … ga arimas[u] diarrhoea 下痢 geri a headache 頭痛 zutsū nausea 吐き気 hakike a pain 痛み itami

おいしい!

oishii! Thank you. (after a meal) ごちそうさまでした。

gochisō sama deshita Please bring ... …をお願いします。

FOOD & DRINK

For more detailed information on food and dining out, see p150. breakfast lunch dinner snack to eat to drink

awabi

朝食 昼食 夕食 間食 食べます 飲みます

chōshoku chūshoku yūshoku kanshoku tabemas[u] nomimas[u]

Can you recommend a ...? どこかいい…を知っていますか?

doko ka ii ... o shitte imas[u] ka? bar バー bā café カフェ kafe restaurant レストラン restoran Is service included in the bill? サービス料込みですか?

... o onegai shimas[u] the bill お勘定 o-kanjō chopsticks はし hashi a fork フォーク fōku a glass (of water) コップ(一杯の水) koppu (ippai no mizu) a knife ナイフ naifu a spoon スプーン supūn I can’t eat meat. 肉は食べられません。

niku wa taberaremasen I can’t eat chicken. 鶏肉は食べられません。

toriniku wa taberaremasen I can’t eat pork. 豚肉は食べられません。

butaniku wa taberaremasen I can’t eat seafood. シーフードは食べられません。

甘海老

sweet shrimp

ebi hamachi

あわび 海老/エビ はまち

yellowtail

ika

いか

squid

ikura

イクラ

salmon roe

kani

かに

crab

katsuo

かつお

bonito

maguro

まぐろ

tuna

tai



sea bream

tamago

たまご

sweetened egg

toro

とろ

the choicest cut of fatty tuna belly

unagi

うなぎ

eel with a sweet sauce

uni

うに

sea urchin roe

NOODLES chānpon-men

ちゃんぽんメン

noodles in meat broth with toppings

chāshū-men

チャーシューメン

rāmen topped with slices of roast pork

kake

かけ

soba/udon in broth

kitsune

きつね

soba/udon with fried tofu

miso-rāmen

味噌ラーメン

rāmen with miso-flavoured broth

shio-rāmen

塩ラーメン

rāmen with salt-flavoured broth

shōyu-rāmen

醤油ラーメン

rāmen with soy sauce–flavoured broth

soba

そば

buckwheat-based noodles

sābis[u] ryō komi des[u] ka? A table for two/five people, please.

shiifūdo wa taberaremasen I’m a vegetarian.

tempura

(英語ができる)お医者さんが必要です。

(二人/五人)お願いします。

私はベジタリアンです。

tsukimi

(eigo ga dekiru) o-isha-san ga hitsuyō des[u]

(futari/go-nin) onegai shimas[u]

watashi wa bejitarian des[u]

soba/udon with egg on top

I need a doctor (who speaks English).

262

I have …

医者を呼んで!

isha o yonde! Call an ambulance!

ama-ebi

koko wa serufu sābis[u] des[u] ka? Is service included in the bill?

kampai! Bon appetit!

Symptoms

SUSHI & SASHIMI

ここはセルフサービスですか?

LANGUAGE FOOD & DRINK

LANGUAGE EMERGENCIES

tas[u]kete! It’s an emergency!

osusume no ryōri ga arimas[u] ka? Is this self-service?

天ぷら

soba/udon with tempura shrimp 月見

263

udon

うどん

thick, white wheat noodles

wantan-men

ワンタンメン

rāmen with meat dumplings

zaru

揚げだし豆腐 アスパラバター チーズ揚げ 冷奴 ジャガバター

baked potatoes with butter

kata yaki-soba

刺身盛り合わせ しいたけ

Japanese mushrooms

shio-yaki-zakana

塩焼魚

whole fish grilled with salt

shishamo

ししゃも

pregnant smelts, grilled and eaten whole

tebasaki

手羽先

chicken wings

tsukune

つくね

chicken meatballs

tsuna sarada

ツナサラダ

tuna salad over cabbage

yaki-onigiri

焼きおにぎり

triangle of grilled rice

yaki-soba

焼きそば

fried noodles with meat and vegetables

yakitori

焼き鳥

skewers of grilled chicken

yasai sarada

野菜サラダ

mixed vegetable salad 掻き揚げ

tempura cake of shredded vegetables

kakiage-don

掻き揚げ丼

kakiage served over a large bowl of rice

shōjin age vegetarian tempura

264

reba

レバ

beef liver

rōsu tan

ロース タン

beef tongue, served with salt and lemon

toriniku yasai

牛お好み焼き イカお好み焼き ミックス焼き モダン焼き ネギお好み焼き

yaki fugu

large bowl of rice topped with egg or meat カレーライス

rice topped with ingredients in curry sauce 肉丼

rice topped with thin slices of cooked beef

omu-raisu

オムライス

rice flavoured with ketchup, served inside a thin omelette

oyako-don

ふぐ刺身

親子丼

ロックで

shiroi-wain

白いワイン

white wine

sutoraito

ストライト

to serve a liquor straight

NONALCOHOLIC DRINKS kōhii

コーヒー

regular coffee ブレンドコーヒー

american kōhii

アメリカンコーヒー

weak coffee

kōcha

紅茶

black, British-style tea ふぐ定食 焼きふぐ

fugu grilled on a hibachi (small earthenware grill) at your table

kafe ōre

カフェオレ

café au lait, hot or cold

orenji jūsu

オレンジジュース

orange juice

mizu



water

ALCOHOLIC DRINKS akai-wain

赤いワイン

red wine

biiru

oyu uron-cha

ビール

お湯

hot water 烏龍茶

traditional Chinese tea

beer

SHOKUDŌ

niku-don

ふぐちり

thinly sliced raw fugu

fugu teishoku

オンザロック

whiskey with ice

blended coffee, fairly strong

stew made from fugu and vegetables

nama biiru 丼物

onzarokku

burendo kōhii

FUGU

chu-hai

karē-raisu

うな重

grilled eel over a flat tray of rice

thin okonomiyaki with spring onions

donburi-mono

うなぎ定食

set course of fugu served several ways, plus rice and soup

okonomiyaki with yaki-soba and a fried egg

negi okonomiyaki

unajū

fugu sashimi

mixed fillings of seafood, meat and vegetables

modan-yaki

うな丼

full-set unagi meal with rice, grilled eel, eel-liver soup and pickles

野菜

squid okonomiyaki

mikkusu

蒲焼

grilled eel over a bowl of rice

unagi teishoku

麦茶

roasted barley tea served in the summer

to serve a liquor on the rocks

skewers of grilled eel without rice

unadon

mugi-cha

rōku-de

UNAGI

fugu chiri

beef okonomiyaki

ika okonomiyaki

トンカツ定食

set meal of tonkatsu, rice, miso shiru and shredded cabbage

鶏肉

OKONOMIYAKI gyū okonomiyaki

ロースカツ

チューハイ

rice brandy with fruit juice 生ビール 焼酎 お湯割り チューハイ

whiskey

煎茶

matcha

抹茶

bancha

番茶

ordinary-grade green tea, brownish in colour

shōchū with soda and lemon

whiskey

sencha

powdered green tea used in the tea ceremony

shōchū with hot water

chūhai

お茶

medium-grade green tea

distilled grain liquor

oyu-wari

o-cha green tea

draught beer

shōchū

JAPANESE TEA

ウィスキー

mugicha

麦茶

roasted barley tea

rice topped with egg and chicken

TEMPURA kakiage

カルビ

vegetables, typically carrots, mushrooms, onions

selection of sliced sashimi

shiitake

karubi

ポテトフライ

French fries

sashimi mori-awase

ハラミ

chicken ピーマン

small green peppers

poteto furai

harami

水割り

whiskey, ice and water

fattier cut of pork (which some consider more flavourful)

kabayaki

mizu-wari

LANGUAGE FOOD & DRINK

LANGUAGE FOOD & DRINK

肉じゃが

beef and potato stew

piiman

牛肉

beef

beef tenderloin 固焼きそば

hard fried noodles with meat and vegetables

niku-jaga

gyūniku

ミンチカツ



short ribs without the bones

cold block of tofu with soy sauce and spring onions

rōsu katsu tonkatsu teishoku

SUKIYAKI, SHABU-SHABU & YAKINIKU

tender meat from around the diaphragm

deep-fried cheese

jaga-batā

天丼

pork

buttered asparagus

hiya-yakko

ten-don

buta

deep-fried tofu in a fish-stock soup

chiizu-age

minced pork cutlet

ざる

IZAKAYA aspara-batā

minchi katsu

selection of tempura tempura shrimp and vegetables over a large bowl of rice

cold soba/udon served on a bamboo mat, with nori

agedashi-dōfu

tempura mori-awase 天ぷら盛り合わせ

精進揚げ

TONKATSU hire katsu

ヒレカツ

tonkatsu (crumbed pork) fillet

katsu-don

カツ丼

tonkatsu and egg on rice

kushi katsu

串カツ

deep-fried pork and vegetables on skewers

265

GLOSSARY

kabuki – form of Japanese theatre that draws on popular tales and is characterised by elaborate costumes, stylised acting and the use of male actors for all roles kaiseki – Buddhist-inspired, Japanese haute cuisine; called cha-kaiseki when served as part of a tea ceremony kaisoku – rapid train kaiten-zushi – automatic, conveyor-belt sushi kamikaze – literally, ‘wind of the gods’; originally the typhoon that sank Kublai Khan’s 13th-century invasion fleet and the name adopted by Japanese suicide bombers in the waning days of WWII kampai – cheers, as in a drinking toast kanji – literally, ‘Chinese writing’; Chinese ideographic script used for writing Japanese Kannon – Buddhist goddess of mercy karaoke – a now famous export where revellers sing along to recorded music, minus the vocals karesansui – dry-landscaped rock garden kawa – river kayabuki-yane – traditional Japanese thatched-roof farmhouse KDD – Kokusai Denshin Denwa ken – prefecture, eg Shiga-ken kimono – traditional outer garment that is similar to a robe kita – north KIX – Kansai International Airport Kiyomizu-yaki – a distinctive type of local pottery ko – lake kōban – local police box kōen – park koma-inu – dog-like guardian stone statues found in pairs at the entrance to Shintō shrines kondō – main building of a temple koto – 13-stringed zither-like instrument ku – ward kudaru – south of (also sagaru) kura – traditional Japanese warehouse kyōgen – drama performed as comic relief between nō plays, or as separate events kyō-machiya – see machiya kyō-ningyō – Kyoto dolls kyō-obanzai – see obanzai kyō-ryōri – Kyoto cuisine Kyoto-ben – distinctive Japanese dialect spoken in Kyoto LDP – Liberal Democratic Party live house – a small concert hall where live music is performed

machi – city area (for large cities) sized between a ku and chōme machiya – traditional wooden town house, called kyō-machiya in Kyoto maiko – apprentice geisha maki-e – decorative lacquer technique using silver and gold powders mama-san – older women who run drinking, dining and entertainment venues matcha – powdered green tea served in tea ceremonies matsuri – festival mikoshi – portable shrine carried during festivals minami – south minshuku – Japanese equivalent of a B&B minyō – traditional Japanese folk music Miroku – Buddha of the Future mizu shōbai – the world of bars, entertainment and prostitution (also known as water trade) momiji – Japanese maple trees momiji-gari – viewing of the changing autumn colours of trees mon – temple gate mōningu setto – morning set of toast and coffee served at cafés mura – village Nihon – Japanese word for Japan; literally, ‘source of the sun’ (also known as Nippon) ningyō – doll (see also kyō-ningyō) niō – temple guardians Nippon – see Nihon nishi – west nō – classical Japanese mask drama performed on a bare stage noren – door curtain for restaurants, usually labelled with the name of the establishment NTT – Nippon Telegraph & Telephone Corporation o- – prefix used as a sign of respect (usually applied to objects) obanzai – Japanese home-style cooking (the Kyoto variant of this is sometimes called kyō-obanzai) obi – sash or belt worn with kimono Obon – mid-August festivals and ceremonies for deceased ancestors okiya – old-style geisha living quarters onsen – mineral hot spring with bathing areas and accommodation o-shibori – hot towels given in restaurants pachinko – vertical pinball game that is a Japanese craze Raijin – god of thunder ryokan – traditional Japanese inn ryōri – cooking; cuisine (see also kyō-ryōri) ryōtei – traditional-style, high-class restaurant; kaiseki is typical fare

sabi – a poetic ideal of finding beauty and pleasure in imperfection; often used in conjunction with wabi sagaru – south of (also kudaru) sakura – cherry trees salaryman – male employee of a large firm sama – a suffix even more respectful than san samurai – Japan’s traditional warrior class san – a respectful suffix applied to personal names, similar to Mr, Mrs or Ms but more widely used sen – line, usually railway line sencha – medium-grade green tea sensu – folding paper fan sentō – public bath setto – set meal; see also teishoku Shaka Nyorai – Historical Buddha shakkei – borrowed scenery; technique where features outside a garden are incorporated into its design shakuhachi – traditional Japanese bamboo flute shamisen – three-stringed, banjo-like instrument shi – city (to distinguish cities with prefectures of the same name) shidare-zakura – weeping cherry tree shinkaisoku – special rapid train shinkansen – bullet train (literally, ‘new trunk line’) Shintō – indigenous Japanese religion shiro – castle shodō – Japanese calligraphy; literally, ‘the way of writing’ shōgun – military ruler of pre-Meiji Japan shōjin-ryōri – Buddhist vegetarian cuisine shokudō – Japanese-style cafeteria/cheap restaurant shukubō – temple lodging soba – thin brown buckwheat noodles tatami – tightly woven floor matting on which shoes should not be worn teishoku – set meal in a restaurant tera – temple (also dera or ji) TIC – Tourist Information Center (usually refers to Kyoto Tourist Information Center) tokkyū – limited express train torii – entrance gate to a Shintō shrine tsukemono – Japanese pickles udon – thick, white, wheat noodles ukiyo-e – woodblock prints; literally, ‘pictures of the floating world’ wabi – a Zen-inspired aesthetic of rustic simplicity wagashi – traditional Japanese sweets that are served with tea wasabi – spicy Japanese horseradish washi – Japanese paper water trade – see mizu shōbai yakuza – Japanese mafia yudōfu – bean curd cooked in an iron pot; common temple fare Zen – a form of Buddhism

LANGUAGE GLOSSARY

LANGUAGE GLOSSARY

266

agaru – north of ageya – traditional banquet hall used for entertainment, which flourished during the Edo period Amida Nyorai – Buddha of the Western Paradise ANA – All Nippon Airways bashi – bridge (also hashi) ben – dialect, as in Kyoto-ben bentō – boxed lunch or dinner, usually containing rice, vegetables and fish or meat bosatsu – a bodhisattva, or Buddha attendant, who assists others to attain enlightenment bugaku – dance pieces played by court orchestras in ancient Japan bunraku – classical puppet theatre that uses life-size puppets to enact dramas similar to those of kabuki chadō – tea ceremony, or ‘The Way of Tea’ chanoyu – tea ceremony; see also chadō chō – city area (for large cities) sized between a ku and chōme chōme – city area of a few blocks dai – great; large Daibutsu – Great Buddha daimyō – domain lords under the shōgun dera – temple (also ji or tera) dōri – street fugu – poisonous pufferfish, elevated to haute cuisine futon – cushion-like mattress that is rolled up and stored away during the day gagaku – music of the imperial court gaijin – foreigner; the contracted form of gaikokujin (literally, ‘outside country person’) gawa – river (also kawa) geiko – Kyoto dialect for geisha geisha – a woman versed in the arts and other cultivated pursuits who entertains guests gū – shrine haiden – hall of worship in a shrine haiku – 17-syllable poem hakubutsukan – museum hanami – cherry-blossom viewing hashi – bridge (also bashi); chopsticks higashi – east hiragana – phonetic syllabary used to write Japanese words honden – main building of a shrine hondō – main building of a temple (also kondō) ikebana – art of flower arrangement irori – open hearth found in traditional Japanese homes ITJ – International Telecom Japan izakaya – Japanese pub/eatery ji – temple (also tera or dera)

jingū – shrine (also jinja or gū) Jizō – bodhisattva who watches over children JNTO – Japan National Tourist Organization jō – castle (also shiro) JR – Japan Railways

267

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LANGUAGE

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268

© Lonely Planet Publications

INDEX See also separate indexes for: Eating p278 Entertainment p279 Shopping p280 Sights p280 Sleeping p281 Sports & Activites p282

A

Asahi Flame 39 Asakura Chōso Museum 75, 76 Asakusa 85-90, 86 accommodation 208-10 attractions 85-90 food 162-3 shopping 138 transport 85 Asakusa Engei Hall 90 Asakusa-jinja (Asakusa Temple) 86 Atami 234 ATMs 250-1 Aum Shinrikyō 29 Axis 99

B B&Bs, see minshuku baby-sitting 245 bargaining 254 bars 178-84, see also clubs, Entertainment subindex Aoyama 181-4 Harajuku 181-4 Ikebukuro 183-4 Roppongi 182-4 Shibuya 181-4 Shinjuku 178-81 baseball 59, 198-9, see also Sports & Activities subindex Baseball Hall of Fame & Museum 59 Bashō Kinenkan (Bashō Museum) 128 Bashō, Matsuo 34, 128 bathrooms 254-5 beaches 221, 234 beer 155 Beer Museum Yebisu 100 Benzaiten 101 bicycle travel 240 Bijutsukan Kōgeikan 51 Bishamon 101 blossom viewing Hanami 17, 20 Kōyō 20 boat travel 240 books 27, 143, see also Shopping subindex bookshops 115

Bridgestone Museum of Art 52-3 Buddhism 22, 23, 26, 232 Buddhist Temples 88 Bunkamura 107 bunraku 37 bus travel 240 business hotels 202 business hours 155, 245, see also inside front cover butō 32

C capsule hotels 202 car hire 241 car travel 240 cell phones 253 cemeteries 76, 99 Central Tokyo 55-60, 56 accommodation 205 attractions 55-60 food 157 shopping 138-9 transport 155 ceramics 35 cheques, travellers 251 Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park 220 children, travel with 71, 245, see also Sights subindex Chingodō-ji (Chingodo Shrine) 87-9 Chōraku-ji 234 cinema, see film cinemas 188-9, see also Entertainment subindex classical music 31, 178, see also Entertainment subindex climate 16, 245 climate change 40, 239 clothing sizes 142 clubs 184-6, see also bars, Entertainment subindex comedy 187-8 Commes des Garçons Building 113 Complex 99 Confucianism 23 convenience stores 164

INDEX

accommodation 202-16, see also Sleeping subindex & individual listings Akasaka 210-1 Akihabara 207 Asakusa 208-10 business hotels 202 capsule hotels 202 Central Tokyo 205 Ebisu 211 gaijin houses 202 Ginza 205-6 Ikebukuro 214-16 Imperial Palace 204-5 Kanda 207 love hotels 202 manga cafés 207 Marunouchi 204-5 minshuku 203 rentals 203-4 Roppongi 211 ryokoan 203 Sanya 209 Shibuya 211-13 Shinjuku 213-14 Shiodome 206 Ueno 207-8 youth hostels 203 activities 192-200, see also individual activities, Sports & Activities subindex addresses 53-4 Advertising Museum Tokyo 66 air travel 237-40 airports 237-40 Akasaka 91-3, 92 accommodation 210-11 attractions 91-3 food 163-4

transport 91 Akihabara 67-9, 68, 5 attractions 67-9 accommodation 207 food 160-1 shopping 140 transport 67 Akihabara Electric Town 67, 5 Akihito, Emperor 29 Akira, Kurosawa 32 Akishino, Princess 30 alcohol 155 ambulance 246 Ameya Yokochō (Ameyoko Arcade) 70, 137 Ancient Orient Museum 121 anime 17, 69, 78 antiques 147, see Shopping subindex Aoyama 109-13, 110 attractions 109-13 bars 181-4 food 168-9 shopping 142-5 transport 109 Aoyama Rei-en (Aoyama Cemetary) 99 Arata, Isozaki 39 architecture 38-9, 112-13 art galleries 127, see also galleries & museums, Sights subindex Article 9 27, 28 arts 30-7, see also crafts bunraku 37 butō 32 ceramics 35 film 32-3 ikebana 36, 93, 196 kabuki 36 literature 33 mingei 35 music 31 nō 36 painting 34-5 rakugo 37 theatre 31-2 TV 32, 42 ukiyo-e 35 visual arts 30-1

273

D

E earthquakes 40, 123 East Shinjuku (Shinjuku) 119-20 000 map pages 000 photographs

274

F ferris wheels 71, 132 festivals 16-21, see also matsuri, individual listings film 18, 19, 32-3 fire services 246 flea markets 147 flower arranging, see ikebana folk crafts, see crafts food 150-74, see also Eating subindex, Shopping subindex Akasaka 163-4 Akihabara 160-1

Asakusa 162-3 Aoyama 168-9 Central Tokyo 157 convenience stores 164 cooking courses 165 depachika 171 Ebisu 165-7 etiquette 150 Daikanyama 165-7 fugu 154, 159, 249 Ginza 158-9 Harajuku 168-9 Ikebukuro 171-3 Imperial Palace 156-7 izakaya 152 kaiseki 154 Kanda 160-1 noodles 151 Odaiba 173-4 okonomiyaki 153 rāmen 152 Roppongi 164-5 sashimi 151 self-catering 166 shabu-shabu 153 Shibuya 167-8 Shinjuku 169-71 shokudō 153 sukiyaki 153 Sumida River 173 sushi 151 sweets 154 tempura 152 tonkatsu 154 Tsukiji 160 Ueno 161-2 unagi 154 vegetarian travellers 155 yakiniku 153 football, see soccer fugu (puffer fish) 154, 159, 249 Fuji Television Japan Broadcast Center 39, 132 Fuji TV Headquarters 38, 11 Fukagawa Edo Museum 129 Fukagawa Fudō-dō (Fukugawa Fudō Temple) 127 Fukagawa Hachiman 19 Fukuda, Yasuo 29 Fukurokuju 101 Fumihiko, Maki 38 Fune No Kagaku-kan (Museum of Maritime Science) 131

Fune No Kagaku-kan 71 Futarasan-jinja 224

G gaijin houses 202 galleries & museums 74, 115, see also Sights subindex Gallery Koyanagi 62 gardens, see parks & gardens gay travellers 18, 180, 246 geology 40 Ghibli Museum 112 Ginza 61-3, 62 accommodation 205-6 attractions 61-3 food 158-9 shopping 136-7 transport 61 glossary 266 Go-Daigo 23 gods 101 Gokoku-ji (Gokoku Temple) 124 Golden Gai 119, 220 golf 196, see also Sports & Activities subindex Gōra 227 Go-Sakuramachi 30 government 41 Government Offices 116 Great Kantō Earthquake 26, 27 gyms 197, see also Sports & Activities subindex gyōen, see parks & gardens

H Hachikō Statue 105 Hachiman-dōri 137 Hachiman-jinja (Hachiman Temple) 63 haiku 34, 128 Hakone 225-9, 226 accommodation 229 attractions 227-8 food 228 information 228 transport 227 Hakone Museum of Art 227 Hakone Open-Air Museum 225 Hama Rikyū Onshi-teien (Detached Palace Garden) 66 Hana Matsuri 18

Hanae Mori Building 112 Hanami (Cherry-Blossom Viewing) 17, 20 Hanayashiki Amusement Park 71, 90 Hanazono-jinja (Hanazono Shrine) 119 Haneda Airport 239-40 Harajuku 109-13, 110 attractions 109-13 bars 181-4 food 168-9 shopping 142-5 transport 109 Harajuku fashion 80, 80 Hari-kuyō 17 Harris, Townsend 234 Haruki, Murakami 33 Hase-dera 231 Hayao, Miyazaki 112 health 247-9 Hibiya-kōen (Hibiya Park) 61 Hideyori, Toyotomi 24 Hideyoshi, Toyotomi 24 Hie-jinja (Hie Shrine) 91 Higashi-gyōen (Imperial Palace East Garden) 51 hiking 220-1 Inari-yama Trail 221 Mt Fuji 228 Okutama 220 Ōme 220 Takao-san 221 Hina Matsuri (Girls’ Day) 17 Hinokicho-kōen 95 Hirohito, Emperor 26, 27, 29 Hirokazu, Koreeda 33 Hiroshi, Sugimoto 30 Hisahito, Prince 30 history 22-30 Article 9 27, 28 books 27 Edo period 24-6 Jōmon period 22 Meiji Restoration 25, 26 Pearl Harbor 27, 57 Portuguese people 24 postwar years 28-9 samurai 22, 23, 25 WWII 26, 27-8, 55-6 Yayoi period 22 Hitomi, Kanehara 33 Hōfuku-ji 234 Hōkoku-ji 232 holidays 249

O-bon 18 Shōgatsu (New Year’s Holiday) 16 horse racing 199-200, see also Sports & Activities subindex hostessing 258 hot spring, see onsen Hotei 101 Hotel New Ōtani 59

I ice-skating 196, see Sports & Activities subindex Idemitsu Museum of Arts 53-4 Ieyasu, Tokugawa 24, 223 ikebana 36, 93, see also Sports & Activites subindex Ikebukuro 121-4, 122 accommodation 214-16 attractions 121-4 bars 183-4 food 171-3 shopping 146-7 transport 123 Ikebukuro Bōsai-kan (Ikebukuro Earthquake Hall) 71, 123 Ikebukuro Gyoza Stadium 121 Imperial Household Agency 50 Imperial Palace 50-4, 52-3 accommodation 204-5 attractions 50-4 food 156-7 shopping 136 transport 123 Imperial Palace East Garden, see Higashigyōen Imperial Palace, see Kyōkyo Inari-yama Trail 221 International Gay & Lesbian Film Festival 18 International Robot Exhibition 20 internet access 249-50 internet resources 21 English teaching 258 entertainment 177 newspapers 42 Iris Viewing 18 Isetan Art Gallery 119 Isetan Building 119

itineraries 46-7 Itsuko, Hasegawa 39 izakaya 152 Izu-hantō 234-6 accommodation 235-6 food 235 information 235 sights 234-5 transport 235

J Japan Railways (JR) Lines 241 Japan Traditional Craft Center 123 Japanese Sword Museum 116 jazz 189-90, see also Entertainment subindex JCII Camera Museum 58 Jingū-bashi (Jingū Bridge) 111 Jizō 101 Jōchi-ji 231 Jōmon period 22 J-Pop 31 judō 192, see also Sports & Activities subindex Junichirō, Koizumi 29 Jurojin 101 Jūzō, Itami 32

K kabuki 36, see also Entertainment subindex Kabukichō 119, 120, 9 Kabuki-za (Kabuki Theatre) 61, 176, 2 Kagaku Gijitsukan (Science Museum) 51 Kagurazaka 60 kaiseki 154 Kakuon-ji 232 Kamakura 229-33, 230 accommodation 233 food 233 information 233 sights 230-2 transport 233 Kamakura National Treasure Museum 233 Kaminarimon-dōri 90 Kanda 67-9, 68 accommodation 207 attractions 67-9 food 160-1 transport 67

Kanda Matsuri 18 Kanda Myōjin (Kanda Shrine) 69 Kanei-ji 72 Kannon-ji 76 Kantō Earthquake Memorial Museum 128 Kappa 101 Kappabashi-dōri (Kappabashi Street) 88, 90, 137 karaoke 184, see also Entertainment subindex karate 192, see also Sports & Activities subindex Kazuko, Shiraishi 34 Kazuo, Shinohara 38 keiretsu 41 Kenchō-ji 231 Kenji, Mizoguchi 32 Kenzaburo, Ōe 33 Kenzō, Tange 38 Kisho, Kurokawa 38 Kitano, Takeshi 32-3 Kitanomaru-kōen (Kitanomaru Park) 51 Kitaoji, Rosanjin 158 Kitsune 101 Kiyōmizu Kannon-dō 71 Kiyonori, Kikutake 38 Kodomo-no-Shiro 71 Kōenji Awa Odori 19 Kōetsu, Hon’ ami 35 Koishikawa Kōrakuen (Koishikawa Kōraku Garden) 58 Kokuritsu Kagaku Hakubutsukan (National Science Museum) 74 Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan (National Museum of Modern Art) 51 Kokuritsu Seiyō Bijutsukan (National Museum of Western Art) 74 Koma Theatre 120 Kon, Ichikawa 32 Kōrin, Ogata 35 Kosugi Hōan Museum of Art 224 Kōyō (Autumn Foliage Season) 20 Kumasaka, Izuru 33 Kyōkyo (Imperial Palace) 50, 4

INDEX

INDEX

Daibutsu 232 Daien-ji (Daien Temple) 100 Daikanyama 100-4, 102 attractions 100-4 food 165-7 shopping 140-1 transport 100 Daikoku 101 dance 177-8, see also Entertainment subindex butō 32 nō 36 day trips 218-36 Decks Tokyo Beach 132 Dembō-in (Dembo Garden) 87 depachika 171 Design Festa 18, 20 Detached Palace Garden, see Hama Rikyū Onshi-teien digital photography 252 disabilities, travellers with 256 discounts 74 diseases 248 doctors 247 Dōgashima 235 Dōkan, Ōta 23, 24 drinks 155 driving, see car travel drug stores, see pharmacies

Ebisu 100-4, 102 accommodation 211 attractions 100-4 food 165-7 shopping 140-1 transport 100 economy 29, 41-2 Edo period 24-6 Edo Shitamachi Dentō Kōgeikan (Traditional Crafts Museum) 89 Edo Tenka Matsuri 19 Edo-Tokyo Museum 39, 125 Egaraten-jinja 232 electricity 246 embassies 246 emergencies 246, 247, see also inside front cover encephalitis, Japanese B 248 Engaku-ji 231 English conversation cafés 198, see also Sports & Activities subindex English teaching 258 Enka 31 Ennō-ji 231 Enoshima 233-4 Enoshima Samuel Cocking Garden 233 entertainment 176-90, see also Entertainment subindex, individual entries environmental issues 40 etiquette 139, 150 sentō 193 sumō wrestling 127 exchange rates, see inside front cover

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cos-play 79, 6, 81 costs 20, 155-6 courier services 238 courses cooking 165 ikebana 93 language 195 crafts 35, see also arts Crafts Gallery 51 credit cards 251-8 customs regulations 245-6 cycling 195-7, see also Sports & Activites subindex

275

La Qua Spa 58 Laforet Building 112 language 259-67, see also inside front cover legal matters 250 lesbian travellers 180, 246 literature 34, 128, see also books live music 186-7, see also Entertainment subindex Louis Vuitton Building 112 Love Hotel Hill 105 love hotels 202

M

000 map pages 000 photographs

276

N Nagisa, Ōshima 32 Nakagin Capsule Tower 38 Nakamise-dōri 137 Namco Namjatown 121 Namiyoke-jinja 65 Narita Airport 238 Naruhito, Prince 30 National Art Center, Tokyo 39, 99, 84 National Children’s Castle, see Kodomo-no-Shiro National Diet Building 91, 10 National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation, see Miraikan

National Museum of Modern Art, see Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan National Museum of Western Art, see Kokuritsu Seiyō Bijutsukan National Science Museum, see Kokuritsu Kagaku Hakubutsukan neighbourhoods 45, 48-9, see also individual neighbourhoods New National Theatre 178 New Ōtani Art Museum 59 newspapers 42, 251 Nicholai Cathedral 69 Nihombashi 54 Nihon Budōkan 51 Nikkō 221-5, 222 accommodation 225 attractions 223-4 food 225 information 224-5 onsen 225 transport 224 Ningyō-kuyō 19 nō 36 noodles 151 Nobunaga, Oda 24 NTT Intercommunication Centre 115

O O-bon 18 Odaiba 130-3, 131 attractions 130-3 food 173-4 shopping 147 transport 130 Odawara 228 Ō-edo Onsen Monogatari (Ō-edo Onsen Story) 130, 133, 11 okonomiyaki 153 Okutama 220 Olympic Games, the 28 Ōme 220 Omote-sandō 137, 6 Omotesandō Hills 112 onsen 193-5, 218-20, 228, see also Sports & Activities subindex opening hours 74 opera 31, 178, see also Entertainment subindex

Otoko No Hi (Boys’ Day) 18 Ōwakudani 227

P painting 34-5 Park Hyatt Delicatessen 118 parks & gardens 115, see also Sights index Pearl Harbor 27, 57 Pentax Forum 118 Perry, Commodore Matthew 24, 26, 234 pharmacies 247 photography 252 planning 16, 46-7 poetry 34 police 246 politics 29, 41 pollution 249 pools, see also Sports & Activities subindex Portuguese people 24 postal services 253 postwar years 28-9 Prada Aoyama Building 39, 113 prostitution 189 pubic baths, see sentō puffer fish, see fugu puppet theatre, see bunraku

R rakugo 37 rāmen 152 Rape of Nanjing 57 recycling 40 red light district 89, 119, 120 religion 22, 23, 26, 232 reservations 156 restaurant bookings 156 Rikugi-en (Rikugi Garden) 60 Rinnō-ji 223 Risa, Wataya 33 Roppongi 94-9, 96-7 accommodation 211 attractions 94-9 bars 182-4 food 164-5 shopping 139-40 transport 94 Roppongi Hills 39, 94, 10 Royal Family 30, 50, see also individual names running 195, see also Sports & Activites subindex

Ryōgoku Kokugikan 125 ryokan 203 Ryōsen-ji 234 Ryōsen-ji Treasure Museum 234

S St Patrick’s Day Parade 17 sake 155 Samba Carnival 19 samurai 22, 23, 25 Sandara Kōgei 76 Sanja Matsuri 18 Sannō-sai 18 Sanya 209 sashimi 151 Science Museum, see Kagaku Gijitsukan Seijin-no-hi (Coming -Of-Age Day) 17 Sensō-ji (Senso Temple) 85, 8 sentō 193, see also Sports & Activities subindex Setsubun 17 shabu-shabu 153 Shibuya 105-8, 106 accommodation 211-13 attractions 105-8 bars 181-4 food 167-8 shopping 141-2 transport 105 Shibuya Crossing 105, 6 Shichifuku-jin 101 Shichi-go-san (Seven -Five-Three Festival) 19 Shimoda 234 Shinjuku 114-20, 115, 3, 9 accommodation 213-14 attractions 114-20 bars 178 food 169-71 shopping 145-6, 83 transport 114 Shinjuku L Tower 118 Shinjuku NS Building 118 Shinjuku Sumitomo Building 118 Shinjuku-gyōen (Shinjuku Park) 119, 9 Shintō 22, 23, 26 Shintō shrines 88 Shiodome 64-6, 65, 5 accommodation 206 attractions 64-6 food 160

transport 64 Shiseido Art House 62 Shiseido Gallery 62 Shitamachi (low city) 25, 44 Shitamachi Museum 75 Shitamachi Walking Tours 89, 90 Shizen Kyōiku-en (Institute for Nature Study) 101 Shōgatsu (New Year’s Holiday) 16 Shōhei, Imamura 32 shokudō 153 shopping 136-48, see also Shopping subindex Akihabara 140, 5 Asakusa 138 Aoyama 142-5 Central Tokyo 138-9 Daikanyama 140-1 Ebisu 140-1 Ginza 136-7, 4 Harajuku 142-5 Ikebukuro 146-7 Imperial Palace 136 Marunouchi 136 Odaiba 147 Roppingi 139-40 Shibuya 141-2 Shinuku 145-6 shrines, see temples & shrines Shugoarts 127 Shuntaro, Tanikawa 34 soccer 199 Sony Building 61 subway 242 Sugimoto-dera 232 sukiyaki 153 Sumida River 125-9, 126 food 173 Sumida River Hanabi 18 Sumida-gawa (River) Cruise 87, 8 Sumō Museum 125 sumō wrestling 125, 127, 197-8, see also Sports & Activities subindex Sunshine City 121 Sunshine International Aquarium 121 Suntory Museum of Art 95 sushi 151 sustainable travel 40 sweets 154 swimming 197

T Tadao, Andō 39 Taiko-kan (Taiko Drum Museum) 89 Taka Ishii Gallery 127 Takamori, Saigō 71 Takao-san 221 Takarazuka 31 Takashi, Murakami 31-30 Takeshita-dōri (Takeshita Street) 137, 6 Takigi Noh 18 Tanuki 101 Tatsuo, Miyajima 30 taxes 203 taxis 241 tea ceremony, see kaiseki teaching English 258 telephone services 253-4 temples & shrines 38, 115, 230-3, see also Sights subindex tempura 152 Tengu 101 Tenno-ji 76 Tepco Electric Energy Museum 107 theatre 31, 36, 176-7, see also Entertainment subindex, individual listings time 254 tipping 254 Tobacco & Salt Museum 106 Tod’s 112 TOD’s Omote-sandō Building 39 Tōgendai 227 Toguri Museum of Art 108 toilets 254-5 Tōkei-ji 231 Tokyo 99, 103, 45, 48-9 Tokyo Anime Center 69 Tokyo Big Sight 133 Tokyo City View 95 Tokyo Daigaku (Tokyo University) 75 Tokyo Designers’ Week 19 Tokyo Disney Resort 71 Tokyo Dome 58 Tokyo Dome City 58-9, 71 Tokyo Gallery 63 Tokyo Game Show 19 Tokyo Hongan-ji 90 Tokyo Institute of Technology 39

Tokyo International Anime Fair 17 Tokyo International Film Festival 19 Tokyo International Forum 39, 52 Tokyo Jidai Matsuri (Festival of the Ages) 19 Tokyo Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan (Tokyo National Museum) 73 Tokyo Metropolitan Children’s Hall, see Tokyo-to Jido Kaikan Tokyo Metropolitan Chrysanthemum Festival 19 Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices 38, 116 Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium 39 Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Art 74 Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography 103, 12 Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum 104 Tokyo Midtown 95, 10 Tokyo Motorcycle Show 18 Tokyo National Museum, see Tokyo Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan Tokyo Opera City 114 Tokyo Stock Exchange 54 Tokyo Tower 95, 10 Tokyo University, see Tokyo Daigaku Tokyo Wonder Site 69 Tokyo-to Jido Kaikan 71 Tomio Koyama Gallery 127 Tomioka Hachimangū (Tomioka Hachiman Shrine) 125 tonkatsu 154 Tōshō-gū 72, 223 Toto Super Space 118 tourist information 255 tours 251 Toyo, Ito 39 Toyota Mega Web 132 Traditional Crafts Museum, see Edo Shitamachi Dentō Kōgeikan

INDEX

INDEX

magazines 251 Maisen 169 Maneki-neko 101 manga 78, 78 manga cafés 207 maps 250 markets 64-5, 147 martial arts 192, see also Sports & Activities subindex Maunouchi 50-4, 52-3 accommodation 204-5 attractions 50-4 food 156-7 shopping 136 transport 123 matsuri 16-20, see also festivals, 8 Edo Tenka Matsuri 19 Fukagawa Hachiman 19 Hana Matsuri 18 Hina Matsuri (Girls’ Day) 17 Hiwatari Matsuri 17 Kanda Matsuri 18 Otoko No Hi (Boys’ Day) 18 Sanja Matsuri 18 Tokyo Jidai Matsuri (Festival of the Ages) 19 Matsuzaki 235 medical services 247-8 Meguro 100-4, 102 attractions 100-4 transport 100

Meguro Gajoen (Meguro Wedding Hall) 104 Meguro Museum of Art, Tokyo 103 Meguro Parasitological Museum 103 Meiji Restoration 25, 26 Meiji-jingū (Meiji Shrine) 109, 6 Midtown Garden 95 mingei 35 minshuku 203 Miraikan (National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation) 130, 132 MOA Art Museum 234 mobile phones 253 modelling 258 money 250-1 money changers 251 Mori Art Museum 95 motorcycle travel 240 Mt Fuji 228-9 Musée Tomo 99 Museum of Contemporary Art, Tokyo 39, 127 museums, see galleries & museums, Sights subindex Museums of Maritime, see Fune No Kagaku-kan music 31, see also Entertainment subindex jazz 189-90 live music 186-7 mythical creatures 101

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L

277

East Shinjuku (Shinjuku) 119 Nippori to NishNippori 76 Shitamachi 89-90 West Shinjuku (Nishi-Shinjuku) 118 walking, see hiking Watari-Um (Watari Museum of Contemporary Art) 111 weather 16 West Shinjuku (NishiShinjuku) 114-8 women travellers 257 wood-block prints, see ukiyo-e work 257 Wright, Frank Lloyd 38 WWII 26, 27-8, 55-6

U

Y

V vacations 249 vaccinations 248 vegetarian travellers 155 vending machines 145, 83 Venus Fort 133, 11 Viñoly, Rafael 52 visas 256-7

W walking tours Aoyama Architecture 112 000 map pages 000 photographs

278

yakiniku 153 Yamanote (high city) 25, 44 Yamatane Bijutsukan (Yamatane Museum of Art) 59 Yamato, the 22 Yanaka Cemetery 76, 99 Yasujirō, Ōzu 32 Yasukuni-jinja (Yasukuni Shrine) 55, 5 Yasunari, Kawabata 33 Yayoi, Kusama 30-1 Yayoi period 22 yoga 197, see also Sports & Activities subindex Yoritomo, Minamoto no 23, 24 Yoshio, Taniguchi 39 Yoshitomo, Nara 30-1 youth hostels 203 Yoyogi-kōen (Yoyogi Park) 108 Yukio, Mishima 33 Yushima Seidō (Yushima Shrine) 69 Yushima Tenjin (Yushima Shrine) 75 Yūshūkan 57

Z Zōjō-ji (Zōjō Temple) 98 Zōshigaya Cemetery 99 Zuisen-ji 232

SELF-CATERING

TRADITIONAL

ASIAN FUSION

Gyros Hero 172

Daidaiya 163 Daidaya 170 Monsoon 167

INDIAN Delhi 163 Moti 165 Nair’s 158

Kinokuniya International Supermarket 166 Meidi-ya 166 National Azabu 166 Natural House 166 Yamaya 166

INTERNATIONAL

SHABU-SHABU

Botan 160 Hantei 161 Imahan 170 Inakaya 164 Isegen 161 Kado 157 Komagata Dojō 162 Kujiraya 167 Kushiya Monogatari 170 Sakana-ya Ajisen 160 Sasa-no-yuki 161

BELGIAN Beer Bar Bitter 157

BURGERS & SANDWICHES Kua ‘ Aina 157

CAFÉ @home Café 161 Ben’s Café 172 Café Artifagose 167 Caffé Michelangelo 167 Dada Café 170 Les Deux Bleue 174 Miraville Impakt 159

Peter 156 Zest Cantina Ebisu 166

Asakusa Imahan 162

ISRAELI Shamaim 171

Hawker Style Asian Canteen 165

ITALIAN

SOBA

Canal Café 157 Taverna 172 Vinoteca 164

IZAKAYA CALIFORNIAN Sonoma 168

CHANKONABE Tomoegata 173

CHINESE China Room 164

CONTINENTAL New York Grill 169-70

Christon Café 170 Gompachi 173 Okinawa 168 Rico’s KItchen 165 Sasashū 172 Seigetsu 157 Tetsugen Nikusho 169 Toki-no-Ma 166 Yappari Tako 160

JAPANESE HEALTH FOOD Mominoki House 169

DELI Park Hyatt Delicatessen 170

MEXICAN

DEPACHIKA

Fonda De La Madrugada 168

Isetan 171 Matsuya 171 Seibu 171 Takashimaya Times Square 171

DIM SUM Din Tai Fung 160 Ten-ten Tsune-tsune Kaitenbo 174

FRENCH Asterix 163 Coucagno 167 L’Osier 158 Mushroom 165

MODERN JAPANESE Nobu 168

NORTH AFRICAN Hannibal Deux 169

OKONOMIYAKI Sometaro 162

PUB Hibiki 173 T Y Harbor Brewery 174

SINGAPOREAN

Kanda Yabu Soba 161 Kinkantei 171 Namiki Yabu Soba 163

SOBA & UDON Sakata 159

SPANISH El Castellano 168

TURKISH Marmara 172

UNAGI Izu-ei 162

VEGETARIAN Nataraj 159 Natural Harmony Angolo 169 Shizenkan 168

VIETNAMESE Lotus Palace 163

WINE BAR

SUSHI & SASHIMI

Mayu (Cocoon) 167

Daiwa Sushi 160 Edogin 160 Fukuzushi 164 Hump 156 Kyūbei 158 Ōshima Endomae-dokoro 173 Tsukiji Tama Sushi 173

YAKINIKU

SWISS

Bobby’s Bar 183 Bon’s 179 Bul-Let’s 182 Chestnut & Squirrel 181 Clubhouse 179 Den Aquaroom 181 Dubliners 180 Footnik 183 Garam 180 GB 180 Grand Prince Hotel Akasaka 184 Heartland 182 Hub Pub 181 Insomnia Lounge 181 Kinswomyn 180 La Jetée 180 Las Chicas 181-182 Lion Beer Hall 183 Mistral Blue 182 Motown House 182 New York Grill & Bar 181 Pasela 184 Pink Cow 181 Propaganda 183 Sasashū 183 Tokyo Apartment Café 182 Tokyo Sports Café 183 What the Dickens 184

CINEMAS

YAKITORI

Cine Amuse East/West 188 Cinema Rise 188 Eurospace 188 Virgin Toho Cinemas Roppongi Hills 188 Waseda Shochiku 188 Yebisu Garden Cinema 188

Akiyoshi 172 Omoide-yokochō 171 Yūrakuchō Yakitori Alley 159

CLASSICAL MUSIC

Nabi 169 Yakiniku Toraji International 165

Tokyo Philharmonic Orchestra 178 Tokyo Symphony Orchestra 178

Chalet Swiss Mini 76, 162

YAKITURI

TEMPURA

ENTERTAINMENT

Daikokuya 163 Rakutei 163 Ten-ichi 158

BARS

CLUBS

A971 182 Advocates Café 179 Agave 182 Albatross 179 Arty Farty 179 Aurora Lounge 179 Aux Amis Des Vins 183 Bar Plastic Model 179 Bello Visto 181

Ageha 184 Club 3.2.8 184 Club Asia 184 Muse 185 New Lex Edo 185 Ruby Room 185 Salsa Caribe 185 Salsa Sudada 185 Space Lab Yellow 185

THAI Kao Ta 172

TONKATSU Futaba 162 Marugo Tonkatsu 161

Birdland 158

Vanilla 185 Womb 186

COMEDY Asakusa Engei Hall 187 Tokyo Comedy Store 188

DANCE Aoyama Enkei Gekijō 177 Bunkamura Theatre Cocoon 177 Session House 178 Space Zero 178

JAZZ B-Flat 189 Blue Note Tokyo 189 Hot House 189 Jazz Spot Intro 189 JZ Brat 189 Shinjuku Pit Inn 190 Sweet Basil 139 190

LIVE MUSIC Cavern Club 186 Club Quattro 186 Crocodile 186 Eggman 186 La.Mama 187 Liquid Room 187 Loft 187 Milk 187 Shibuya-ax 187 Shibuya O-East 187

INDEX

INDEX

Ueno 70-6, 72 accommodation 207-8 attractions 70-6 food 161-2 transport 70 Ueno Dōbutsu-en (Ueno Zoo) 71, 73 Ueno Zoo, see Ueno Dōbutsu-en Ueno-kōen (Ueno Park) 70, 8 ukiyo-e 35 Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Art Museum 111 Ume Hanami 17 unagi 154 urban planning 41 uyoku, the 28

GREEK

EATING

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train travel 241-4 Chūō & Sōbu Lines 241 history 25 private lines 242 stations 244 subway 242 tickets & passes 242-3 Yamanote Line 241 transport 237-44 travellers cheques 251 trekking, see hiking Tsukiji 64-6, 65 attractions 64-6 food 160 transport 64 Tsukiji Central Fish Market 64-5, 4 Tsukiji Outer Market 65 Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gū 230-1 TV 32, 42

OPERA New National Theatre 178

THEATRE Cerulean Tower Nō Theatre 176 Die Pratze 177 Kabuki-za (Kabuki Theatre) 61, 176, 2 Kanze Nō-gakudō 176 Kokuritsu Nō-gakudō 176 Koma Theatre 120 Suzunari Theatre 177 Takarazuka Gekijō 177

SHOPPING ANTIQUES Fuji-Tori 143 Japan Sword 139 Aoyama 142-145

279

Itōya 136 Sekaidō 145-146

BOOKSHOPS

TOYS Hakuhinkan Toy Park 137 KiddyLand 145 Shugoarts 127 Shuntaro, Tanikawa 34

Blue Parrot 143 Good Day Books 143 Hacknet 140-141 Issei-do 143 Kinokuniya 119, 143 Mandarake 143 Maruzen 143

Akihabara Radio Center 140 Kaiyōdō Hobby Lobby 140 Tsukumo Robotto Ōkoku 140

CAMERAS

HOMEWARES

BOAT CRUISES

Bic Camera 147 Sakuraya 146 Yodobashi Camera 146

Muji 137

Sumida-gawa (River) Cruise 87

CLOTHING A Bathing Ape 144 Chicago Thrift Store 143 Comme des Garçons 144 GDC 141 Hysteric Glamour 143 Hayashi Kimono 137 Issey Miyake 144 Muji 137 Q Flagship Ebisu-Nishi 141 Shibuya 109 141 Undercover 145 Uniqlo 143 Yohji Yamamoto 144

ELECTRICS

Don Quixote 140 Isetan 146 Loft 142 Matsuya 137 Matsuzakaya 137 Mitsukoshi 136 000 map pages 000 photographs

AQUARIUMS Sunshine International Aquarium 121 Tokyo Tower 98

Azabu-jūban Antique Market 147 Hanazono-jinja Flea Market 147 Kappabashi-dōri 138 Nakamise-dōri 138 Nogi-jinja Flea Market 147 Roppongi Antique Fair 147 Takeshita-dōri 144 Tōgō-jinja Fine Arts Market 147 Tsukiji Central Fish Market 64-5, 4 Tsukiji Outer Market 65

Disk Union 146 HMV 146-147 Spiral Records 144

SHOPPING MALLS Daikanyama Address 141 Decks Tokyo Beach 147 Laforet Building 144 Roppongi Hills 140 shopping streets 137 Tokyo Midtown 140 Venus Fort 147 Yebisu Garden Place 141

SOUVENIRS Kamawanu 141

SPECIALTY STORES Condomania 145 Puppet House 139 Ranking Ranqueen 142

BUILDINGS & STRUCTURES Asakusa Engei Hall 90 Commes des Garçons Building 113 Fuji Television Japan Broadcast Center 39, 132 Golden Gai 119, 120 Hanae Mori Building 112 Hotel New Ōtani 59 Isetan Building 119 Jingū-bashi (Jingū Bridge) 111 Kabuki-za (Kabuki Theatre) 61, 176, 2 Kyōkyo (Imperial Palace) 50, 4 Laforet Building 112 Louis Vuitton Building 112 Meguro Gajoen (Meguro Wedding Hall) 104 National Diet Building 91, 10 Nicholai Cathedral 69 Omotesandō Hills 112 Pentax Forum 118 Prada Aoyama Building 39, 113 Roppongi Hills 39, 94, 10 Shinjuku L Tower 118 Shinjuku NS Building 118 Shinjuku Sumitomo Building 118 Sony Building 61 Spiral Building 113 Sunshine City 121 Tod’s 112 Tokyo Big Sight 133 Tokyo Daigaku (Tokyo University) 75

Tokyo Dome 58 Tokyo International Forum 39, 52 Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices 38, 118 Tokyo Midtown 95, 10 Tokyo Opera City 114 Tokyo Stock Exchange 54 Tokyo Tower 95, 10 Venus Fort 133, 11

GALLERIES & MUSEUMS Advertising Museum Tokyo 66 Ancient Orient Museum 121 Asakura Chōso Museum 75, 76 Axis 99 Baseball Hall of Fame & Museum 59 Bashō Kinenkan (Bashō Museum) 128 Beer Museum Yebisu 100 Bijutsukan Kōgeikan 51 Bridgestone Museum of Art 52-3 Bunkamura 107 Complex 99 Edo-Tokyo Museum 39, 125 Fukagawa Edo Museum 129 Fune No Kagaku-kan (Museum of Maritime Science) 71, 131 Gallery Koyanagi 62 Ghibli Museum 112 Idemitsu Museum of Arts 53-4 Isetan Art Gallery 119 Japanese Sword Museum 116 Japan Traditional Craft Center 123 JCII Camera Museum 58 Kagaku Gijitsukan (Science Museum) 51 Kantō Earthquake Memorial Museum 128 Kokuritsu Kagaku Hakubutsukan (National Science Museum) 74-6 Kokuritsu Kindai Bijutsukan (National Museum of Modern Art) 51

Kokuritsu Seiyō Bijutsu-kan (National Museum of Western Art) 74 Meguro Museum of Art, Tokyo 103 Meguro Parasitological Museum 103 Miraikan (National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation) 130, 132 MOA Art Museum 234 Mori Art Museum 71, 95 Musée Tomo 99 Museum of Contemporary Art, Tokyo 39, 127 National Art Center, Tokyo 39, 99, 84 New Ōtani Art Museum 59 Nihon Budōkan 51 Shiseido Art House 62 Shiseido Gallery 62 Shitamachi Museum 75 Shugoarts 127 Sompo Japan Museum of Art 117, 118 Sumō Museum 125 Suntory Museum of Art 95 Taiko-kan (Taiko Drum Museum) 89 Taka Ishii Gallery 127 Tepco Electric Energy Museum 107 Tobacco & Salt Museum 106 Toguri Museum of Art 108 Tokyo Anime Center 69 Tokyo Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan (Tokyo National Museum) 73 Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices 38, 116 Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Art 74 Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography 103, 12 Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum 104 Tokyo Wonder Site 69 Tomio Koyama Gallery 127 Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Art Museum 111

Watari-Um (Watari Museum of Contemporary Art) 111 Yamatane Bijutsu-kan (Yamatane Museum of Art) 59 Yūshūkan 57

MARKETS Tsukiji Central Fish Market 64-5, 4 Tsukiji Outer Market 65

PARKS & GARDENS Chingodō-ji (Chingodo Shrine) 87-9 Dembō-in (Dembo Garden) 87 Hama Rikyū Onshi-teien (Detached Palace Garden) 66 Hibiya-kōen (Hibiya Park) 61 Higashi-gyōen (Imperial Palace East Garden) 51 Hinokicho-kōen 95 Kitanomaru-kōen (Kitanomaru Park) 51 Koishikawa Kōrakuen (Koishikawa Kōraku Garden) 58 Midtown Garden 95 Rikugi-en (Rikugi Garden) 60 Shinjuku-gyōen (Shinjuku Park) 119, 9 Shizen Kyōiku-en (Institute for Nature Study) 101 Ueno-kōen (Ueno Park) 70, 8 Yoyogi-kōen (Yoyogi Park) 108

SHOPPING STREETS Edo Shitamachi Dentō Kōgeikan (Traditional Crafts Museum) 89 Kaminarimon-dōri 90 Kappabashi-dōri (Kappabashi Street) 88, 90, 137 Shibuya Crossing 105, 6 Takeshita-dōri (Takeshita Street) 109

TEMPLES & SHRINES Asakusa-Jinja (Asakusa Temple) 86 Chingodō-ji (Chingodō-ji Shrine) 87-9 Daien-ji (Daien Temple) 100 Fukagawa Fudō-dō (Fukugawa Fudō Temple) 127 Gokoku-ji (Gokoku Temple) 124 Hachiman-jinja (Hachiman Temple) 63 Hanazono-jinja (Hanazono Shrine) 119 Hie-jinja (Hie Shrine) 91 Kanda Myōjin (Kanda Shrine) 69 Kanei-ji 72 Kannon-ji 76 Meiji-jingū (Meiji Shrine) 109, 6 Namiyoke-jinja 65 Sensō-ji (Senso Temple) 85, 8 Tenno-ji 76 Tokyo Hongan-ji 90 Tomioka Hachimangū (Tomioka Hachiman Shrine) 125 Tōshō-gū 72, 223 Yasukuni-jinja (Yasukuni Shrine) 55 Yushima Seidō (Yushima Shrine) 69 Yushima Tenjin (Yushima Shrine) 75 Zōjō-ji (Zōjō Temple) 98

TOKYO FOR CHILDREN Fune No Kagaku-kan (Museum of Maritime Science) 131 Hanayashiki Amusement Park 71, 90 Ikebukuro Bōsai-kan (Ikebukuro Earthquake Hall) 71, 123 Kodomo-no-Shiro 71 Meguro Parasitological Museum 103

Miraikan (National Museum of Emerging Science & Innovation) 130, 132 Mori Art Museum 95 Namco Namjatown 121 Tokyo-to Jido Kaikan 71 Tokyo Disney Resort 71 Ueno Dōbutsu-en (Ueno Zoo) 71, 73

SLEEPING BUDGET HOTEL Hotel Accela 209 Hotel New Azuma 209 Hotel New Kōyō 209 Juyoh Hotel 209 Tokyo Backpackers 209

BUSINESS HOTELS Arca Torre 211 Asia Center of Japan 210 City Hotel Lonestar 214 Creston Hotel 212 Ginza Nikkō Hotel 206 Hotel Bellclassic 215 Hotel Century Southern Tower 214 Hotel Ibis 211 Hotel Mets Shibuya 212 Hotel My Stays Ochanomizu 207 Hotel Parkside 208 Hotel Strix Tokyo 215 Hotel Sunlite Shinjuku 214 Hotel Sunroute Takadanobaba 215 Hotel Villa Fontaine Shiodome 206 Mitsui Urban Hotel Ginza 206 National Children’s Castle Hotel 213 New Central Hotel 207 Park Hyatt Tokyo 213 Presso Inn Kanda 207 Ryokan Katsutarō Annex 208 Shibuya City Hotel 212 Shibuya Tōbu Hotel 212 Shibuya Tōkyū Inn 212 Shinjuku Park Hotel 214 Suigetsu Hotel Ōgai-sō 208 Tokyo Business Hotel 214

INDEX

INDEX

DEPARTMENT STORES

SIGHTS

MARKETS

MUSIC CRAFTS Axis 139 Bingoya 139 Blue & White 139-140 Japan Traditional Craft Center 146 Kamawanu 141 Oriental Bazaar 144 Takumi 137 Tsutsumu Factory 141 Yoshitoku 138

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Parco 142 Seibu 146 Tōbu 146 Tōkyū Hands 142

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ART SUPPLIES

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Toyoko Inn Kita-guchi No. 1 215 Ueno First City Hotel 208 Villa Fontaine Roppongi Annex 211 Yaesu Terminal Hotel 205

CAPSULE HOTELS Capsule Land Shibuya 213 Green Plaza Shinjuku 214

HOSTELS Khaosan Guesthouse 210 K’s House 210 Sakura Hostel 210 Sakura Hotel 205 Tokyo International Hostel 205

LOVE HOTELS Love Hotel Hill 105

LUXURY HOTELS

INDEX

ANA Intercontinental Tokyo 210 Arimax Hotel 212 Asakusa View Hotel 209 Cerulean Tower Tōkyū Hotel 212 Crowne Plaza Metropolitan Hotel 215 Excel Tokyu Hotel 212 Four Seasons Hotel Chinzan-sō 215 Grand Hyatt Tokyo 211 Grand Prince Hotel Akasaka 205 Hilton Tokyo 213 Hotel Avanshell Akasaka 210 Hotel New Ōtan 205 Hotel Ōkura 210 Hotel Seiyō Ginza 205 Hyatt Regency Tokyo 213 Imperial Hotel 206 Keiō Plaza Hotel 213 Marunouchi Hotel 205 Mercure Hotel Ginza Tokyo 206

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Palace Hotel 204 Peninsula hotel 204 Shinjuku Prince Hotel 214 Sunshine City Prince Hotel 215 Westin Hotel Tokyo 211 Yama-no-Ue (Hilltop) Hotel 207

GYMS & POOLS

RYOKAN

HORSE RACING

Andon Ryokan 215 Capsule Hotel Riverside 209 House Ikebukuro 216 Kimi Ryokan 216 Ryokan Katsutarō 208 Ryokan Sansuisō 215 Ryokan Shigetsu 209 Sawanoya Ryokan 208 Sukeroku No Yado Sadachiyo 209 Suzuki Ryokan 208 Tama Ryokan 216 Tokyo Ryokan 210

Ōi Keibajō 199 Tokyo Keibajō 199

SPORTS & ACTIVITES BASEBALL Tokyo Dome 198-99 Jingū Baseball Stadium 198

CYCLING Eight Rent 195 Imperial Palace Cycling Course 195 Meiji-jingū’s Outer Gardens 196

ENGLISH CONVERSATION CAFÉS Com ‘Inn 198 Leafcup 198 Mickey House 198

GOLF Tokyo Tomin Golf Course 196

Chiyoda Sogo Taikikan Pool 197 Chūō-ku Sogo Sports Centre 197 Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasium Indoor Pool 197-200

ICE-SKATING Meiji-jingū Ice Skating Rink 196 Takadanobaba Citizen Ice Skate Rink 196

Takaragawa Onsen 220 Tenzan 228 Yashio-no-yu Onsen 225 Yumoto Onsen 225

RUNNING Hash House Harriers 195

SENTŌ Asakusa Kannon Sentō 194 Jakotsu-Yu 194 Komparu-Yu Onsen 194 Koshi-No-Yu Sentō 194 La Qua Spa 194 Ō-edo Onsen Monogatari 194

SOCCER LANGUAGE COURSES

National Stadium 199

Academy of Language Arts 195 East West Japanese Language Institute 195

SUMŌ WRESTLING

MARTIAL ARTS International Aikidō Federation 192 Kōdōkan Judo Institute 192 Kyūmeikan 192 World Union of Karate-dō Organisation 192

ONSEN Chōjūkan Inn 218 Ikaho Onsen 220 Kappa Tengoku 228 Kusatsu Onsen 220 La Qua Spa 58 Minakami Onsen 220 Ō-edo Onsen Monogatari (Ō-edo Onsen story) 130, 133 Rokuryu Kōsen 195 Sawada-kōen Rotemburo Onsen 235 Shiriyaki Onsen 220

Ryōgoku Kokugikan 197-98

YOGA International Yoga Centre 197

TOP PICKS Contemporary Art Venues 30 Contemporary Buildings 39 Clubs 185 For Vegetarians 155 International Food 154 Live Music Venues 187 News Sites 42 Places To Go For Broke 152 Quirky Events 17 Ryokan 203 Shopping Streets 137 Traditional Art Venues 37 Traditional Crafts Shops 139

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