Converting GM Van to 4x4 | Pirate 4x4
Pirate 4x4 banner

Converting GM Van to 4x4

79K views 73 replies 26 participants last post by  KWTMECH 
#1 ·
I am in the process of planning a conversion of my van to 4x4, and need a few thoughts. I've read posts on this site for years, but never had a need to post...until now.

Vehicle - 2005 GMC Savana 3/4 extended van (now, before everyone posts that Fords are a lot easier to convert, which they are, the GMC has advantages over the Ford for me. This van is a motorcycle race van, so has already been setup or that purpose, which costs a lot of money. In addition, the GMC is about 5 inches higher in the cargo area, so a bike will slide right in without compressing the forks first. Finally, I own this one, and it only has 60,000 miles on the clock, and has been well taken care of, so I know the condition. Also, the factory 4x4 did not come in an extended van, so I must convert to get the extended van length)

Use - This is a road rig, and we travel a lot to races, so the 4x4 is for snow covered road, muddy roads getting into and out of back country race sites (I race long distance endurance events, so the pit crew often needs to get to me using one lane logging roads in awful conditions). Also, I don't really carry much weight, just two bikes and four people.

The planned Build - This is a build on a budget, so no sexy suspensions this time. Will use the leaf springs that I purchase with the axle, with a possible new main leaf if needed to center the axle. This will also make the axle install a one weekend project.

Front Axle - I have been looking at Dana 44 fronts, but today have been wondering why I can't just use a GM 10 bolt front from a 3/4 ton. This is my first question, essentially, is the any reason I should avoid a GM front axle since I do not plan to run high steering. Lower rig equals better fuel mileage.

Gear Ratio - I will have to swap gear ratio in the rear to match the front, so if I use a GM front axle, I can easily find a 3.73. This means I can use the same carrier in the rear instead of purchasing a new carrier to swap to something close to the 4.10 that comes in most Dana 44 front axles.

Steering - Stock steering gets tossed, as it will not work unless I use a Dana 44 with a high steer arm to keep the drag link above the springs. Since this is a road rig, no reason for high steering. I will have to notch the cross member below the steering box to install a drop pitman arm, as the current pitman arm curves up 2 inches and has the joint built in. With the drop pitman arm, I will box the cross member to retain strength. I will use the stock drag link and tie rod end from the axle I use, so nothing special here. The lift will be as small as possible, so drag link angle should not be a problem.

Front axle hanger - This one is easy, just build frame plates that will support on inner/outer frame, bolt, weld, and install the front of the spring. Might have to move the spring pad on the axle, but I have done this a lot, so no problem. Rear of spring will require a new cross member, as the frame is wider in the rear than in the front. New cross member is easy to build, and will give me a spot to hang my spring eyes for the rear shackles.

Brakes - Will use stock on the axle, so no big deal here. Just longer hoses, and maybe fresh brake components

Rear Axle - lift blocks, probably about 2 inches, and longer u-bolts. Simple.

Transfer case - I will use a divorced unit, NP 205. With the extended van, drive line angles are not a problem, so will use a short drive line between stock tranny and transfer case. I want to keep the stock tranny, as I have learned over the past 30 years of doing conversions that I want to keep as much as possible in stock form. As long as I properly support the transfer case, and include strut rods, I should avoid issues with transfer case movement. New drive lines to front and rear axles. This is probably the easiest part of the build because of the divorced transfer case. The linkage will just have to be designed on the fly.

I know this is a ton of information, but I wanted to provide the entire project in summary in order ask about using a GM 10 bolt front end instead of a Dana 44. Knowing that I don't need the high steering other details are an important aspect of the decision.

So, post up your thoughts.

Thanks

Rick
 
See less See more
#2 · (Edited)
I don't know why you are saying that you can't use a Dana 44 because it will require high steer ? The gm Dana 44s and 10 bolts are pretty much identical at the knuckles ..... you did a good job of writing out your plan to build the van ...... what rear axle do you have ?
 
#8 ·
Nope, a Dana 44 does not REQUIRE high steering, but I understand, you will need a Dana 44 if you want to use high steering.

Rear axle is stock for the 3/4 ton van, but not sure which axle it is. From what I understand, van rear ends are offset to the passenger side to allow more room for driver controls. As a result, I really want to retain the stock rear end.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the information so far. Another question:

If I use a Dana 44, were these used on newer GM or Dodge vehicles? I need a passenger side drop to keep from having to build a new gas tank to clear the transfer case. From what I have read, Ford's have a drivers side drop, so won't work for me.

On GM front ends, seems some folks don't like them, but not sure why. Can someone enlighten me as to the kind of problems these have?

Thanks
 
#11 ·
i would put a GM dana 60 under it just for the brakes, bearings, and housing strength. 3/4 ton van that is gonna be hauling stuff and you are thinking about a 10 bolt?

What size brakes are on the front right now? i'd be willing to bet dana 44 stuff will be a downgrade to a 2005 3/4 chevy van.
 
#16 ·
Actually, two motorcycles only weigh in at just over 500 pounds, so I will never even get close to needing the 3/4 ton weight capacity. This is my third van, and the 3/4 ton vans just handle better on the dirt roads, so that's why I stay with them.

If I can find a Dana 60, your suggestion is no doubt the way to go, but a lot of the Dana 60 units were on high use work rigs, so are in need of a complete rebuild. A road unit would be awesome. I'll keep my eye out as I am looking.
 
#12 ·
I like the idea.(im toying with the idea of converting my pimped out ford van over to use during the winter)

The 10 bolts will be easier to find as they came from the later trucks...If your dead set on a dana 44 then look into the 93 and older dodges..You can get a 8 lug 44 from them pretty cheap.Dodge has used the 44 till 93..They use a cad disconnect and adding a home made posi lock cable you can pop in and out of 4wd from the inside.That will give you the pass drop chunk you wish for as well.

You wont break the cad shaft as its fatter than a donkey dik. Just get some good spicer ujoints and run it.Im assuming your keeping a small tire like a 33" on the van.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Not really dead set on a Dana 44, Dana 60 or a GM 3/4 ton 10 bolt, but don't know a lot about the GM units. As I noted in another reply, this van doesn't haul a lot of weight, and since I am getting an 8 lug version of whatever I end up purchasing, weight should not be a problem.

My biggest concern was the durability of the GM unit (oh yes, I am just assuming these come in 8 lug, but maybe they don't...hmmm....), as I am not familiar with these units.

Yes, tires will remain small, and doubt I will even go as big as 33", as I want to restrict the height to keep from killing my gas mileage.

By the way, a Ford is a ton easier to convert than a GM, and there are lots of kits out there available. With a GM van, EVERYTHING is custom. As a result, converting a GM takes a lot more planning, and you better be a pretty good fabricator. I have a ton of fab skill, and built this from scratch in 13 days a year ago for my son who had just returned from Iraq...alive.

Image
 
#15 ·
If I'm not mistaken, the Ford units are all drivers side drop. The van gas tank is plastic, so if I use a drivers side drop, I get to built a whole new gas tank. I've built tons for Jeeps, so have the background, but these are not much fun to build, and one for the van is going to be HEAVY. Just easier to use a passenger side drop and avoid dealing with the gas tank.
 
#18 ·
I think an 8 lug gm d44 or 10 bolt would be fine for your application especially since you plan on keeping tires stock size .....but the only issue I see is that if you plan on using a divorced transfer case , the most common are Ford 205s which are drivers drop , I don't know if you can flip the outputs over to make it passenger drop
 
#19 ·
Actually, mid 70's Dodges used a divorced transfer case as well, but with a passenger side drop. In addition, I could always switch to a Dana 20 transfer case, and just purchase an input yoke adapter. These are strong transfer cases that were used in 1 ton trucks for years. These are also used in high horse power mud bog trucks. Thick case and gear drive, so bull strong. Not my first choice but there are lots of these out there, so certainly an option if I can't find a Dodge unit.
 
#22 ·
geeze, just run an older chevy np203 or np205 or np208... they are all manual shift and passenger side drop. and that van is much too heavy for a 10 bolt or d44 front axle. i mean, you should be find with stock tires, but if your going through the trouble to convert a 3/4 ton vehicle over to solid axle it would make more sense to just go ahead and source a gm d60 front. they arent going to be any more used and abused than a d44/c10b 3/4 ton front. you can expect to pay about $200 for an 8-lug 3/4 ton axle or about $500-$600 for a 1 ton chevy front... but its worth the extra couple hundred IMO.
 
#23 ·
nat_ster; said:
There are a fair number of pass drop divorced 205 out there. The come from Dodge, GM, and International. There have been a few come through here in the past year.

I've read a few builds where the t-case was up side down. As long as your gear oil is high enough, and your shift rail seals are good, you should be fine. Then all you have left is building your shift linkage.

Nat
not true. GM never used a divorced NP205. Dodge and International yes. GM, no. that will help narrow the search for the OP.

By the way, please do not provide misinformation if you are going to try and provide information. If you dont know what youre talking about, sending someone on a wild goose chase is an insult.

Let me know when you find that blinkerfluid.
 
#25 ·
Some of the confusion is the D44 versus the 10b for High-steer. Both can be used and the two are basically interchangeable. The 3/4 of either version will probably work for your purposes just fine. The D44 has more aftermarket support.
The high steer issue has to do with the knuckles. In stock form both the D44 and 10b came with the same steering. Most Chevy D44 came from the factory with "flat-top" knuckles, which can be drilled and tapped for a pass side high-steer arm needed for high steer. These knuckles can be interchanged or aftermarket one bought.

So to answer your question, I'll pick-up whatever one you could find cheapest/best shape.
And since this is Pirate a D60 is a must or you van will blow up in flames and turn your cousin's, roommate's, girlfriend's, brother bold.
 
#27 ·
to the OP... heres a thought.

Load the van like you would when you go racing.

take it to the local scale, and scale it.

if the front of the van has more than 3600 lbs on it, you should look into buying a dana 60 front end. If not, the dana 44 or 10 bolt will both work fine.

not "all dana 44's" came with flat top knuckles on the passenger side. there is a greater propensity of 76 and earlier 3/4 ton chevy trucks with them than most others, though Jeep J10/J20 dana 44's used them as well. Same basic knuckle, just not milled/drilled/tapped for passenger side use.

3/4 ton chevy stuff is out there, and cheap. Everyone wants a 60.
 
#28 ·
get a dana 60. if you were wheeling then the pmpkn would sit low, but if your just hauling then go with a 60.
I have a chevy astro with a dana 44 front, its getting a 60.
yes its a unibody.
my 44 does have flat tops on both sides and an ox-locker.
so i'm pushing it w/ 37's
 
#29 ·
I cant believe the amount of people on here scoffing at the though of a 10bolt being under the front of a 3/4 van...

You remember those big huge SUV things GM had. Ugh what were they called, O yeah Suburbans. Pretty sure they were 3/4 ton rated, heavy as all hell and came with 10 bolt fronts and never had an issue...

And jesus christ with the "10 bolts are garbage get a dana 44 comment" seriously your dumb drink bleach...

OP your right on track with getting an 8 lug HD 10 bolt. If you are keeping it low and going with leafs then your best bet is it run them spring under and use a crossover style draglink that ties into the tierod at the passenger end.

Cheapest most simple, and cost affective way to solve your steering issue.
 
#35 ·
OP, a divorced Ford Transfer case is easier to find and the cheapest from my experience. You can swap input/outputs to make them a P-drop. I did it here:

Image


Image


This works as the tallest part of the case fits up in the trans tunnel.

You have to swap the rails around, and do some grinding as shown here:

Image


Just FYI anyway.
 
#36 · (Edited)
I'm not a big fan of vans, but for some reason, 4X4 vans always pique my interest.

Mocha Mike is running a 203/205 doubler in his Scout with a flipped Ford 205 to a passenger drop front axle.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=892156&highlight=flipped+205

You could also swap a divorced input from a Ford/Dodge 205 into a Chevy 205 (Spidr posted a pic of that in one of the 205 threads).http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=852907&highlight=205+input

10 bolts never came with a flat top knuckle on the passenger side, so if you find a 10 bolt and decide you need a flat top knuckle, you can swap a D44 flat top knuckle (Jeep Wagoner or Chevy D44) onto the 10 bolt. That's what I did on my Scout. I found a 10 bolt and swapped Wagoneer knuckles on it to get the high steer.
A 10 bolt will probably be just fine for what you need, mild off road. They lived under Suburbans, so I'd think they would be fine in your van.
An inverted Y steering (as suggested by Angryblack) would probably work for what you want to do.

Check out threads by asonico he has a crazy SWAT Urban assault van thing:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=812909&highlight=

Although his is older and he used a Ford D60, I think you might be interested in his steering, might give you some ideas.
 
#37 ·
axisT6,

That's an interesting alternative to flipping the Ford unit to get the Passenger side drop. The transfer case is stage two of the build, as I need tires and don't want to buy any until I get the front axle installed. Hoping to get the front axle in before the end of January.

With that said, I need a little more information on how you did this. I appears as though you just removed the tranny input and move it 180 degrees to the rear. Same for the drive line outputs, simply moved them 180 degrees to the opposite of the transfer case. Am I understanding the pictures right?

Also, does this have any advantages over just flipping the whole transfer case and running it upside down to get the Passenger side drop?

guidolyons,

Great information and links. I have bookmarked all of them so I can read them a few times and view the pictures.

On the steering, my first thought was to do this exact same thing with my stock steering, but when I walked the suspension through it's travel in my mind, paying attention to what will happen with the tie rods connected to the frame, I was nervous about an ever changing steering and the toe in. Just seems better to go with the stock straight axle tie rod since this van is for Road use so won't ever really be wheeled hard (I have a Jeep for hard wheeling).

I also considered using one half of my stock steering setup as my drag link, using a high steering arm on one side, but just don't like the steering connected to the frame, just seems wrong somehow. Since a drop pitman is cheap and allows me to use a solid axle stock style drag link, seems safer and more road worthy.

Oh yes, guidolyons, totally understand your thoughts on not being a big fan of vans. If I didn't travel so much to race Off Road Long Distance Motorcycle Events, I wouldn't own one. However, I was racing National events until about 6 years ago and received a lot of race support, including a Chevy Dealership who provided my first van. I found the van was the best race vehicle hands down, as it keeps my bikes safe and secure, and if I am traveling by myself, I setup a bed for long drives so I can crawl in when I'm tired, sleep, get up and right back on the road.

Image


Beats pulling a trailer through California, as California's speed limit while towing a trailer, even a small motorcycle trailer with one bike, is only 55 mph instead of 70 mph. Cost over $300 to find that out. So, when you are on a 10-20 hour drive (normal distance to attend the races I enter), 15 mph makes a big difference in getting back to work for Monday morning.


Thanks all for the great information. This is exactly what I have been looking for. Keep posting ideas if you have them. I will resurrect this post periodically to post fab and build pictures for others, as there is not very much information on the internet about converting a newer Chevy Van to 4x4.

Rick
 
#38 ·
axisT6,

That's an interesting alternative to flipping the Ford unit to get the Passenger side drop. The transfer case is stage two of the build, as I need tires and don't want to buy any until I get the front axle installed. Hoping to get the front axle in before the end of January.

With that said, I need a little more information on how you did this. I appears as though you just removed the tranny input and move it 180 degrees to the rear. Same for the drive line outputs, simply moved them 180 degrees to the opposite of the transfer case. Am I understanding the pictures right?

Also, does this have any advantages over just flipping the whole transfer case and running it upside down to get the Passenger side drop?
All I did was take the input/rear output, and install it all where the front output was, and vice versa. I also swapped the shift rails as well. As far as advantages, I don't have any experience with flipped cases. IMO with flipped case, you rely a lot more on the integrity of the shift rail seals, and there may be oiling issues, but like said, I am not experienced with flipped cases.
 
#39 ·
Maybe I missed it, or you dont care, but have you thought out your ABS problem with using a 10bolt. If it were just a wheeler then obviously its a non issue, but being a "road" van, seems like something important to consider..
 
#46 ·
When I was running my old flat fender jeeps with small block V-8, 5:38:1 locked front and rear, running the Sierra Nevada area before they shut the whole place down to appease the granola crunching crowd (like the awesome Jeep trips to BeBe Lake up near Kickland ski resort), our motto was:

"The slower you go the less you break"

Ran those old 25 axles for years with 33" tires and never broke one, even with the V-8, as I was always easy on the throttle. Can't say that for those crappy 3 speed trannies, until I learned I could shim the main shaft at the rear bearing and eliminate lots of play at the input shaft. Terrible design...
 
#49 ·
dang i guess thats why i have gotten more calls from people in California about buying and shipping my '79 ford D60 to them... havent had a single call locally for a buyer! lol. chevy 60's are cheap though and dodge 60's even cheaper becuase of the unit bearing. buddy of mine recently bought a chevy 60 for $300 from an old farmer. ford 60's arent cheap on the east coast though... i paid $1,250 for mine.
 
#53 ·
After reading all of the thoughts on my conversion on this post relative to which axle to use, coupled with the reality that the use of my rig is really just for pavement, snow covered roads and muddy fire roads, I decided that a Dana 44 or 10 bolt would work fine for my needs.

I had been watching Craigslist for the last couple of months, and about two weeks ago, there was a Dana 44 from a 77 3/4 ton Chevy truck for $250. The motor had blown up a few weeks earlier, so the axle had not sat in the weeds getting ruined. In addition, about a year ago, it had brakes, rotor and bearings, and I was able to get all brake components, tie rod, u-bolts/plates and drag link in the purchase.

Spring pads width match the front of my frame exactly, so mounting the front of the springs will be easy. The rear of the spring will require a new cross member, as the frame is wider at the rear of the spring than the front. No problem here, as I had already accounted for this fabrication.

The problem I now have to solve is the drag link to one of the knuckles. The drivers side has a flat top knuckle, so wondering what everyone thinks about using a high steer arm on the drivers side, and just running a short drag link from the steering box to the new high steer arm on the drivers side knuckle? The axle already has a 3 inch block under the stock arm on the drivers side knuckle, which will help keep the drag link more level if I connect to the drivers side knuckle.

Remember, this van won't be wheeled at all, so not really concerned about having an extreme angle on the drag link, but rather if using a short drag link from the steering box to the drivers side knuckle will steer well?

Thoughts?

Thanks

Rick
 
#54 ·
I'm not too familiar with van frames but I'm pretty sure running a drag link from the box down to the knuckle would result in a really short link and a extremely severe angle ...it just plain dosnt sound good

Go with a traditional crossover set up, it will work great on road or off
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top