The real Versailles: 10 things you must see in Louis XIV's palace

This week, the opulent court and raunchy private life of France’s most famous king, Louis XIV, come to BBC Two in the first of a 10-part series – Versailles. One of the stars of the show is the palace itself; its staterooms, bedrooms and gardens form the backdrop to much of the drama. But while television can give you a glimpse of the splendour of Versailles, nothing quite compares to visiting the real thing.

Here, in 1682, André Le Nôtre created formal gardens and avenues unlike anything Europe had seen before. Approaching the gilded gate and gleaming burnished facade, it is easy to imagine the anger felt by poverty-stricken Parisians around 100 years later as they stormed the cobbles at the height of the French Revolution. This palace was where the Bourbon line reached its zenith, but was also the backdrop to its downfall, making it a fascinating place to visit. Here are 10 highlights.

The Palace

1. The Hall of Mirrors

The new palace at Versailles was built around Louis XIII’s former hunting lodge. Its central point is the Galerie des Glaces. This huge hall is lined with more than 350 mirrors, which in the 17th century were as precious as diamonds. History continued to be made here long after it was looted during the Revolution – the Treaty of Versailles was signed in this room in 1919.

2. Le Grand Perspective

This is by far the best view in Versailles. Stand by the central window of the Hall of Mirrors or in the courtyard and look out on to this vista across Le Nôtre’s parterre.

3. Marie Antoinette’s bedroom

The Queen’s Apartment includes the bed chamber in which 19 royal children were born, and from which Marie Antoinette escaped an angry mob through a secret side door during the Revolution in 1789. Versailles’ last queen was accused of lasciviousness, but it took several years for her and Louis XVI to consummate their marriage.

4. The art collection

Like many royal buildings in Paris, the château was turned into a museum after the Revolution. The paintings and sculptures depict important events in French history – not to be missed is Jacques-Louis David’s own copy of The Coronation of Napoleon.

5. The Grand Chapel

Prepare to be dazzled by the chapel, which combines gothic architectural influences with a baroque aesthetic. You will see the vast nave from the royal gallery where the Sun King’s successor, Louis XV, spent much time repenting his many sins. A teenage Marie Antoinette was also married to the Dauphin here.

The Gardens

6. The Grand Canal

The focal point of the astonishing symmetrical landscape is a mile-long lake which took 11 years to construct. It no longer features the two gondolas and four gondoliers that Louis XIV had shipped over from Venice, but you can rent a rowing boat by the hour.

7. The Groves

Many visitors to Versailles bypass the garden groves – the outdoor “rooms” enclosed by hedges on either side of the avenue. In doing so they miss one of the jewels in its architectural crown. Particularly impressive is the Ballroom Grove where Louis XIV was said to have entertained his acolytes with his ballet dancing.

8. The Fountains

The fountains of Versailles are real show-stoppers. From March to October, a musical fountain show runs each weekend and on Tuesdays; Thursday and Friday shows are added from July to September.

9. The Queen’s Hamlet

Court life at Versailles was filled with gossip, ceremony and constant company, so to get away from it all Marie Antoinette had a peasants’ village built in the grounds. This rustic enclave was a functioning farm whose products supplied the kitchens of the palace. Allow 40 minutes to walk there from the château or catch the “petit train” (€7.50/£6) or rent an electric car (€32 per hour).

10. The Trianon palaces

The Grand Trianon is an impressive structure which provided an escape from court life for French kings. Louis XV spent time here with a series of mistresses, including his favourite, Madame de Pompadour.

How to visit

 The palace is notoriously busy in high season (June-September). October is much quieter and the gardens are particularly colourful then. Book your ticket on the website. You will probably still have to wait for admission but you won’t have to face the long queues at the ticket office. Arrive early and visit the château at 9am (opening time), before exploring the parterres and groves between in the late morning and tackling the Trianon and Queen’s Garden in the afternoon.

A Passport ticket (€18/€25 on fountain days) will cover admission to the house, gardens and Trianon and is the best option for a day trip. You can also buy individual tickets to the Palace (€15), Trianon area (€10) and musical fountain show (€8-€9). If you have already seen the chateau interior, I’d recommend going straight to the gardens in high season, where you can take in much of the palace’s splendour and will rarely have to queue for long.

The château runs tours throughout the year. I highly recommend the Private Apartments of the Kings tour (€7), led by one of the museum’s French guides. The visit, which will take you away from the crowds of the Public Apartments, gives access to Louis XVI’s library, Louis XV’s dining hall and some of the finest pieces of furniture in the world. Your guide may also take you to Louis XV’s wooden opera house, one of the palace’s best-kept secrets.