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.41 






A RESIDENCE IN JUTLAND, 



THE DANISH ISLES, AND COPENHAGEN. 



By HORACE IJIARRYAT. 




V /C/ ^^ 'l'^^'** VOLUMES.- Vol. H 

i-<y^ ' LONDON: 

OIIN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 

18G0. 'V 



LONDON ; PRniTED BT W. CLOWXS AKD §0X8, BTAITFORD UTTiriT, 
AMI CIIARIKQ CItOflS. 



CONTENTS OF VOL. IL 



CHAPTER XXVIIL 

The five steeples of Kalltuidborg church — Its casUe, the last resting- 
place of Christian H. — The Nero of the North vindicated — His ne- 
gociations with Scotland — Delfth of Prince Yaldemar at Refsnes — 
Legend of the Holy Anders ~ Death of Frederic IL — Story of 
Prince Hagbard and the fair Signe — The Bimam wood stratagem — 
Sir Eskil Snubbe — The Isles of King Hiame and Alruna his 
Qneen .. .. Page 1 



CHAPTER XXIX, 

Boiler, the place of banishment of Christina Monk — Her regal state — 
The copper nail in a bed of gold — The eatable snail naturalized by 
a Frenchman — Coffin of Count Gri&nfeld — Prsastegaard of a Jut- 
land clergyman — Agnete and the merman — The English Cinque 
Ports — Legend of the lElder Queen 14 

CHAPTER XXX. 

Sillieborg — Cap of Bishop Peter — The Jutland lakes— The treor 
8ure-seeker — Himmelbjerg, Queen of the Jutland mountains — 
The fiery beacon — Lovers of Laven Castle — The paper manufac- 
tory 26 

CHAPTER XXXI. 

The fish and the ring — Fortunes of the house of Stubbe — The 
traitor page — Marsk Stig, the outlaw — ChAteau of Frusenborg — 

Artificial egg-hatching 80 

VOU II. a 



IV CONTENTS OF VOL. II. 



CHAPTER XXXIL 

Siege of Kal0 — The lord of Mols— Danish Whiitington — The 
Lady Hilda TroUe — Round choroh of Thorsager — Ch&teau of 
Rosenheim — Origin of the Roaenkrantz name — Holger the sayant 

— Erik's rebuke of Cromwell — Jutland clergy — Olausholm — 
Meeting of King Frederic and Anne Reventlow . . . . Page 46 

CHAPTER XXXIIL 

Bmusgaard and the Bmces — Banders' commerce, her gloves and 
beer — Duel of the Ooimts — Manors of the Scheel family — A 
midnight wandering in Jutland 62 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 

The village of Manager — Story of Sir Hem and Sir Sem — Poor 
Mary's well — A black stork — A Jutland plain — Sea of barrows — 
Wicked Baroness of Lindenborg *.. .. 71 

CHAPTER XXXV. 

Aalborg or Eel Castle — Its armes paxlantes — Death of King John — 
Jens Bang and the miser's daughter — The Agger Canal — Skipper 
Clemens, leader of the Yendel boers — Hog family — Their high and 
ancient descent — Coat of J0rgen BiUe — Great bog of Jutland — 
B0rglum and Bishop Crump — The lady of Asdal and the flitch of 
bacon 82 

CHAPTER XXXVI. 

Old manor of H^gholt and its dairy-farm — Two sisters of Jemp — 
Pontoppidan — Jutland's most northern manor — Lighthouse of 
Skagen — Storm of flying sand— Wrecks — Melons and sea-nettles 

— Sweet gale and bog moss — Frederikshavn — The Jutland 
Dido 103 

CHAPTER XXXVII. 

Manor of Yoergaard — Skipper Clemens and Bishop Crump again — 
Lady Ingeboig Skeel and the architect — The message of her hns- 
band — Her disturbed spirit — Her prison, the Rosodonten — Her 
Sunday pastime — Her monument — The road-side inns of Queen 
Margaret — Jutland mode of boiling eggs 117 



CONTENTS OF VOL. IL 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

N0rliind Manor — Ellen Marsriin and Lndvig Munk — Meeting of 
King Christian and the fair Ohristina — Names of the Jutland 
nobility — Almshouse of Aalborg — Scottish g^ard of Christian n. — 
Prince Niels and his tutor — Duke Enud's suit of scarlet — Mermaid 
monument at Tiele Page 127 

CHAPTER XXXIX. 

Pagan city of Yiborg — Erik the Lovely and the harper — The Danish 
Luther — First of the Longobardi — Sir Niels Bugge and the Castle 
of Held — Murder of King Erik Clipping — Cliurch of Anscarius >~ 
Bailway engineer — King Knuds invasion of England — Manor of 
Krabbesholm — Parson Mads the slanderer — Caps of Fuur Island 

— Mors, birthplace of Hamlet — His story as told by Saxo . . 136 

CHAPTER XL. 

County of Thy — Superstitions concerning tombs — Plague of sand — 
Wicked Queen of England — Draining the Sj0rring lake — The 
pedlar and the geese — Anne Boleyn — The Liimfiorde — Stoiy of 
Liden Kirsten — Sale of a wreck — Old Abellona and her amber 

— beads — Loss of life off this coast 155 

CHAPTER XLI. 

The Agger canal — Food of the peasants — The girl who trod upon 
bread 174 

CHAPTER XLII. 

Battle of the Giants — Patriotism of a peasant — Sequel to the story of 
Hamlet — Protection against flying sand — Magnus Munk and the 
still — Gipsies the outcasts of society — The dragon and the 
wizard — - Appearance of the Black Pest — Depopulation of the Ale 
Moee 177 

CHAPTER XLIII. 

Legend of the English prince and his bed of gold — The luck of 
Yosborg manor — Little Peter the cow-driver — The industrious 
Nisses — Long Margaret and her eight murders — Private tutor of 
Prince George of Denmark — Story of Havelock the Dane — Customs 
on ChiistmaA-eye — The ooiporal and his little child . . . . 193 

a 2 



▼1 CONTENTS OF VOL. IF. 



CHAPTER XLIV. 

The bells of Thim — Gyldenstierne of Thimgaard — Poorhouae of 
Bingkj0bmg — Old rat of Hee — Threshing to the sound of music 

Page 210 



CHAPTEE XLV. 

Island of Fan0 — Voluminous petticoats and black masks of the 
peasant women — Their Oriental character and Dutch cleanliness — 
Queen Tbyre wrecked off the Isle of Man — Amber-gathering 218 



CHAPTER XLVI. 

Bibe Cathedral >- The anchorite Bishop — Sacred theatricals — Bibe 
*' ret" — Sumptuary laws — Bridal trousseau of the eighteenth century 
— Bagged schools of the middle ages — Death of Queen Dagmar — 
Queen Agnes at Bibehuus — Funeral of Marsk Stig — The robber's 
bride — Legend of Tovelil — A Tinghuus — The werewolf and the 
niglitmare — The night-raven and the basilisk — Monument to the 
heroes of Fredericia — Farewell to Jutland 224 



CHAPTER XLVIL 

The island of Funen — Bed cabbage of Sir Niels Bugge — Ploughing 
ghosts — Odin and Odense— Murder of St. Kniid — ^^The traitor 
Blakke — Funeral of Kirstine Munk — Dormitorium of the Able- 
feldts — The lady who danced herself to death — The pet cats of 
Mrs. Mouse — King John and his family — The Lear of Odense 
and his daughters 244 



CHAPTER XLVIII. 

Funen continued — King Christian IT. and the ape — Deathplace of 
Ellen Marsviin — By-laws of Nyborg — Women to be buried alive — 
Laws of adulteration — King Hans' invitation to his daughter'a 
christening — Story of Eoi Lykke and the Queen — The rival Kisses 
— St. George killed the dragon in Denmark — Svendborg, the Pig 
Castle — Goas made archbishop — Ltland of Thorseng the apanage 
of Count Valdemar — Portraits of the House of Oldenborg . . 258 



CONTENTS OF VOL. U. TU 



CHAPTEE XLIX. 

The Island of Ly0 — Capture of King Yaldemar by his tieaeherous 
vanal — EiiBtine Munk and her children — Homa of Wedellsboig — 
Karksmen of Middel&rt — Snogh0i in Jutland — Brahe, the King 
of Funen — Island of Thor0, and Balder's stone — Ellen Man?iin 
married again; tonis cattle<<lealer — Her game of cards with the 
king — Island of Langeland and the giant Bud — Sir Otto Krump's 
defence of Tranekjier Page 2^5 

CHAPTEE L. 

Island of LoUand — Yule-feast of Olaf Hunger — Wendish fiunilies from 
Bugen — Bojal ordinances — Lutheran clergy — Sir Edward the 
Pedagogue Priest — Shell of the Swedes — Mr. Ursins and our Prince 
George — Birthplace of Erik Glipping — The Curate of Helsted and 
the mother's curse ^- Tale of Sir Otto Bud and King John — Beve- 
lations of St Bridget — The ill-behaved nuns of Maribo — Grave 
of Eleanor Ulfeld — King Charles " forgets " the loan — Eleanor in 
captivity and death — The bricked-up lady of Hardenberg . . 291 

CHAPTEE LI. 

Island of Falster — Queen Sophia and the parson^s wife — How she 
rules her household — The lady who could not die — Molesworth's 
account of swan-shooting — Familiar spirits and other superstitions 
of the island — Island of M0en — The strong-minded Dorothea — 
The bathing-place of Liselimd — The chalk klints and beauty of the 
scenery — The Klint King — Bacchxuaalian harvest-h9me . . 812 

CHAPTEE LIL 

The island of Bomholm; its reputation for salmon — A coachman 
from the diggings — Bound churches of Ny and Ole — Church- 
pushers and hourglasses — The TroUes of Bomholm— Their tricks 
upon Bondevedde — Their patriotism — How they love butter — 
The three-legged cat — They man the clififs to defend the island — 
Hammershuus, the prison of Oorfitz and Eleanor Ulfeld . . . . 823 

CHAPTEE LIII. - 

Farming in Bomholm — Village beacons — The rock scenery — The 
White Oven visited at Christmas secure from ghosts — Bomholm 
gold coined by Christian IV. — Its diamonds in &vour with Queen 
Louisa — Bound church of 0ster Lars — Fastelavn at Shrovetide — 
— Forest of Alminde — The birds at the Cross— Tower of Chris- 
tiansminde — Horae-fiair — Font of Aakirkeby 342 



viu CONTENTS OF VOL. II. 



CHAPTEE LIV. 

Betom to Zealand — Island of Bog0 — King Yaldemar and the Hanse- 
atikers — The Gk>ose Tower — Goose carried off by King Erik — 
Castigation of the fair Cecilia — Herlu&holm the Hairowof Denmark 
— Old Bridget and the missing title-deeds ~ The gallant Admiral 
TroUe — Hyitfeldt the chronicler's Dance of Death • . Paqjei 358 

CHAPTEB LV. 

Peter Thott and his h0i — The Black Fiiis of Borreby — The enchanted 
bell of the Letter-room — Old Valdemar Daa the alchemist — The 
giant girl and the sandhills — The " Lady of the Mom " the curse 
of Zealand — Thorvaldsen at Ny80 — The convent for noble ladies 
at Giflselfeld — Peter Oxe the minister of Frederic II. — The 
ladies of Yemmetofte — A starlight night — Spoliation of the goddess 
Freia 869 



OHAPTEE LVL 

The dominions of the Elf King — Hospitality at Store Hedinge — The 
Trolles and the church of H0ierup — Yall0, the Queen of Danish 
convents — The ancient house of Bille — Lucia the Flower of Den- 
mark — The last o£ the Bosensparres — Ledreborg, the ancient Leira 
— Court etiquette of King Bing — Legend of King Skiold, founder 
of Leira 382 



CHAPTER LVIL 

Destruction of the Palace of Frederiksborg by fire 393 

Conclusion 399 



ILLUSTRATIONS OF VOL. IL 



Chubch, Eallxtndbobg Fronttipiece. 

BoTTKD CHUBcp OF OsTER Lab8, Bobnholm .. .. Tith-poffe, 

Round Chubch, Thorsaqeb Page 49 

Sections and Ground-Plans op Church, Thor- 

8A0ER 49 

Thor*8 ELammer become a Cross 61 

Skaoen 107 

Feoobkltt, Island of Mors 161 

LiDEN EiRSTEN*8 Grave 163 

Figure-Drawinqs OF the Fifth Century 181 

Cathedral, Kibe 225 

Sections of Church of Oster Lars, Bornholu 348 

Steynsklint AND Church of H0IERUF 385 

Font at Aaxirksbt, Bornholu 357 



JUTLAND 

AND 

THE DANISH ISLANDS. 



CHAPTER XXVIIL 



The five steeples of Kallundborg church — Its castle, the last resting- 
place of Ghriiitiaii IL — The Nero of the North vindicated — His ne- 
gociations with Scotland — Death of Prince Yaldemar at Befsnss — 
Legend of the Holy Anders — Death of Frederic II. — Story of 
Prince Hagbard and the fair Signe — The Bimam wood stratagem — 
Sir Eskil Snubbe — The Isles of King Hiame and Alruna his Queen. 



KALLUNDBORG. 

June lO^A. — Eallundbobg, like many other places 
in Denmark, has little to boast of beyond its fdte, his- 
torical recollections^ and its church, founded by Esbem 
Snare* — one of the most remarkable ecclesiastical 
buildings in any coimtry. Long before airiving at 
Kallundborg you see her four lofty octagonal towers 
rising against the horizon ; in former days it boasted, 
more lofty than the rest, a fifth, springing from the 
centre of the building. ^ These five steeples were built 
by Esbem Snare, says tradition, in honour of his 
family — the highest (about to be rebuilt) t to his 
mother, the lady Inge, and the four surrounding ones 



• In 1171. 

t The rebuilding of the centre tower has jost been completed (1860). 
We give the church as it now stands. 

VOL. II, B 



2 KALLUNDBORG. Chap. XXVItt 

to her four daughters; and because one of the girls 
was lame, he built one of the steeples less than the 
other three. Some years since there lived at Kallund- 
borg a Churchwarden, a man of taste ; the pillars by 
which the centre tower was supported gave offence 
to his eyes, so he ordered the columns to be removed, 
and, deprived of its support, down came clattering the 
lofty tower, extinguisher and all, about the heads of 
the congregation. Unfortunately the perpetrator of 
this barbarism was not buried alive under the ruins. 

Of the ancient castle of Kallundborg, also founded 
by Esbem Snare, on the model of Axelhuus, no re- 
mains now exist. It bore an important part in the 
history of its country, but was thoroughly destroyed 
by the Swedes in the occupation of 1658. Within 
its walls were confined first Albert of Sweden by 
Queen Margaret ; then later the widow of Steen Sture, 
and other Swedish ladies of rank, after the siege of 
Stockholm in 1520. Christian himself found a restiog- 
place in Kallundborg, when released from the prison of 
S0nderborg; and here he lived comfortably, well 
clothed and fed, and was allowed the privileges of the 
chace; and here too ho died at the age of seventy- 
three,* after passing ten years within its walls. It is 
related that one day, when out hunting, he suddenly dis- 
appeared, to the great alarm of his attendants; and 
when discovered hiding in a ditch, he laughed at their 
fears of his escape, for where could he run to, and 
indeed, who would receive him? 

The day he received the news of the death of Chris- 
tian III. he burst into a flood of tears, exclaiming, 



♦ Christian II. died 1559. 



Chap. XXVIII. CHRISTIAN II. 3 

" Now my time will not be long :" nor was it, for he did 
not long surviye his cousin. 

I am not going to enter into the defence of this 
monarch, and have Yertot brought up against me, and 
the " Nero of the North " thrown in my teeth ; still, 
after what I have read in the Danish historians, I am 
of opinion he has been blackened more than necessary ; 
added to which he had one great crime in the eyes of 
the sixteenth century — ^his leaning towards the Re- 
formed faitL The Emperor Charles V., in speaking 
of him, said, " If our brother-in-law, against our counsel 
and will, change his religion, so also will we change our 
affection and support towards him." Another writer 
declares him ''to have been a Protestant at heart, 
though he dare not profess the faith openly." 

Christian was neither flesh nor fowl — ^Catholic or of the 
Reformed faith — ^an object of suspicion to both parties : 
had it not been for his "grand connexion" the 
Emperor, he would in all probability have declared 
himself, and have taken his seat among the Protestant 
potentates of Europe. 

I have already alluded to the volume of King Chris- 
tian n.'s Correspondence, lately published at Copen- 
hagen, from letters preserved in the archives of Bavaria, 
dating from the year 1519 to 1531. There are many 
therein — ^interesting as regards his negotiations with 
England and the sister kingdom of Scotland — in which 
figures a certain Dr. Alexander Kingome, who. signs 
himseK your " humblest of Chaplains." ^ Kingome was 
a Scotchman by birth, and employed as an emissary 
to procure aid from King Henry VIII. of England. 
After a time the answer arrived, worded in most elegant 
Latin. Dr. Kingome was received at Richmond by 

.B 2 



4 KALLUNDBORG. Chap. XXVIU. 

the King's Grace, at the same time and in the suite of 
that learned man Sir Thomas More, and in the pre- 
sence of Cardinal Wolsey, by the splendom* of whose 
retinue he appears to have been greatly struck. Bluff 
King Hal is sorry, very sorry, that his approaching 
war with Scotland prevents him ifrom rendering the 
assistance his brother the King of Denmark reqmres ; 
his hands are fully occupied : and later the great Car- 
dinal writes a letter himself to explain the reason why 
his royal master cannot spare the " one ship " he prays 
for. If our English Sovereign could afford no help to 
poor harassed Christian, advice costs nothing; so he 
WTites a letter in his own hand, advising him on no 
account to irritate his people by raising money in the 
country: he might have as well advised a starving 
mendicant to live generously. 

The negotiations with Scotland proved quite as un- 
satisfactory as those with her sister kingdom : indeed 
more so, for the English declined to afford him aid point 
blank, while the Scotch were everlastingly promising, 
and intriguing about something, and never performing 
their promises after all. I find a most civil letter fix>m 
the Chancellor of Scotland, regretting that the King of 
Scots is too occupied by his approaching war with Eng- 
land to go to his cousin's assistance ; and then come 
promises and disappointment about help from the exiled 
Duke of Albany. It is at last settled that Eobert Barton, 
with the well-known Andrew, his brother, is to equip a 
fleet to come Jto his aid, in conjunction with Eobert 
Falconer. Then there's a spoke in the wheel— a riot in 
Edinburgh, and the arrival of an envoy, Magnus Bille, 
from King Frederic, Christian's uncle, and Falconer 
proves faithless. King James V., through his secretary 



Chap. XXVIII. CHRISTIAN II. 5 

Hepburn, now writes his cousin word to take refuge 
in Scotland. 

Then writes Kingome: — "James Beaton, Archbishop 
of St Andrew, would so much like to be made a car- 
dinal ; if King Christian could only procure his election 
through the Pope and his brother-in-law the Emperor, 
much good might ensue." But Christian's interest is 
at a low ebb in those quarters; he is suspected of 
hankering after " Luthers kere ;" and the Kegent 
Margaret has her eyes open and looks somewhat 
askant; so his faithAil spouse Elizabeth writes him 
word. As soon as matters appear to be coming round, 
they are all afloat again. 

In the year 1526 dies Queen Elizabetli, and she is 
hardly buried when it is proposed, in a letter from the 
faithful Eingome, that Christian should, as a '^coup 
d'etat," espouse a half-sister of King James V., then 
only fifteen years of age, daughter of our English Prin- 
cess Margaret Tudor and her husband the Earl of 
Angus, whom she married, hated, and tried to get 
divorced from. But this marriage never came off; 
and, what is worse, help never came from Scotland. • 

Christian had, however, on his side, shuffled just as 
much ; for when in earlier days his cousin, the King of 
Scots, applied to him for aid against the English, he 
pleaded, as an excuse, it would interfere with his 
coronation. 

There must have been jolly doings in this city of 
Kallundborg in former times, if you judge from the 
colossal drinking-cup now preserved in the Museum of 
Copenhagen, before the quaffing of which no man could 
be admitted as " brother " into the Guild of St. Knud. 



6 REFSNJES. Chap. XXYm. 

• REFSNiES. 
At some three miles distance from Kallmidborg is 
situated the village of Befsnses, the barest promontory 
of the island of Zealand — a scene of desolation now, 
but once the hunting-grounds of the Denmark sove- 
reigns. It was here, while engaged in the pursuit of a 
stag, that Prince Valdemar, son of Valdemar It., met 
with a fate similar to that of our King William Bufns. 
Four gigantic masses of granite, now no longer to be 
found, once marked the ppot. The event is thus de- 
scribed in the ancient ballad of * Dronning Leonora :' — 

" Leonora the Queen in childbirtli 
Her young life lost, — and died. 

Alas! alas! alas! 
She came to Denmark from Portugal. 
She travels forth to God's joyful hall ; 
She rejoices with saints, and the choir of angels. 
But her body lies in St. Benedict's earth. 
Court holds her lord in Kallundborg. 
He thought with time to kill his grief ; 
Hardly had months gone nine 
The lord was willing to console his mind." 

lu fact, having grieved for nine months, he has had 
enough of it, and determines to amuse himself: " Saddle 
me," he exclaims, "Swedefux!" — and off he goes 
a-hunting. So hard he rides from dawn till night, that 
when he arrives at Befsna^s scarce a squire has been able 
to follow him. The beaters drive the deer and hare with 
shouts into the forest ; a hart starts forth ; Sir Eskiol 
draws his bow, the stag shall be his prey; the shaft 
pierces the prince's breast — he falls to the ground from 
his charger, and says to this world a long good m'ght. 
Horror-struck, the attendants rush to his aid too late ; 
he is dead. The affrighted waters of the Belt recede 



Chap. XXVIII. SLAGELSE. 7 

from the strand ; the porpoises and fishes raise a loud 
lament — even the rocks grieve. When the King hears 
the fatal news, it shoots through his heart like a spear ; 
he wrings his fingers till they crack, and then curses 
Eefsnaes. " Hereafter shall no hare or hart be found — 
no tree shall henceforth live. On Befsnaes, where 
flourished oak and beech, henceforth shall grow the 
thorn and the brier — 

** With sorrow they conveyed him to Riiigsted, 
Saint Benedict's clflirch received the prince, 1231." 

The curse of Valdemar was well fulfilled : no hare of 
the royal forest now exists; one solitary hawthorn, 
loaded with snow-white flowers, twisted and gnarled like 
those in Woodstock Park, alone attests the existence of 
the former hunting-fields. Well too might King Val- 
demar, and Denmark as one man, lament the death of 
the heir-apparent (already elected in his fether's life- 
time),* sole offspring of good Queen Dagmar, for three 
more vicious sovereigns than his half-brothers, sons of 
Berengaria, never ascended the Danish throne. 

*' Oh Denmark, had you known your grief, 
You would have wept tears of very blood." 

SLAGELSE. 

Five miles to Slagelse, where we first dine, and then 
proceed in the cool of the evening by rail to Copen- 
hagen. Stagelse is a tidy little town, once of consider- 
able ecclesiastical eminence. The ancient proverb 
runs — " Roskild ringen, og Slagelse m0g«tgen, fik aldrig 
ende" (the ringing at Eoeskilde and manuring at Slagelse 



* 1231. Valdemar, Leonora, and her child, were all buried at 
Bingsted. 



8 SLAGELSE. Chap. XXVDI. 

never finish) ; alluding to the extent of her convent 
lands of Antvorskov, one of the richest monasteries in 
Zealand, founded by the holy Anders, a saint of mudi 
repute, who flourished in the thirteenth century. Holy 
Anders — only plain Anders then — accompanied a party 
of pilgrims to the Holy Land; he fell sick by the 
way, and became such a burden to his fellow-travelleis 
— always wanting an arm, a rest — that, wearied to death, 
they took advantage of a sound sleep he indulged in 
somewhere near Joppa, to leav« him to his fate, and rid 
themselves of so troublesome a companion. Great was 
his consternation when he awoke to find himself deserted ; 
he gave himself up for lost, and prepared to die, when 
a voice whispered to him, " Be of good cheer ; ^ and he 
felt himself suddenly raised in the arms of angels, carried 
rapidly through the air, and, after paying a flying visit 
to St. Antony of Padua on the way, and St. Olaf of Nor- 
way into the bargain, found himself gently laid down on 
the summit of a hill near Slagelse. " Good bye, Anders," 
said the angel. " If you don't know what to do with 
your hat when you say prayers, pray hang it, and your 
gloves as well, on the sunbeams." 

On the summit of this h0i was erected Anders Eors 
(cross). " In memory of St Andrew, who slept at Joppa, 
and found himself here in 1205," ran the inscription, 
which was destroyed after the Reformation. Well, 
Anders — now holy Anders — grew in grace and reputa- 
tion, and was in great favour at the court of King Erik 
Plovpennig. One fine day Anders prayed the King to 
grant to the poor church as much land to make a 
garden-— merely to grow onions and leeks — as he could 
ride round on the back of a new-bom colt. "By all 
means," answered the King, and went to his bath. Off 



Chap. XXVIIL DEATH OF FREDERIC II. 9 

Anders set on his new-bom steed^ galloping like mad. 
'* A miracle! a miracle!" roared the monks. "He'll 
ride round the whole island !" cried the courtiers ; " stop 
him 1 stop him ! " and rushed to inform the King, who 
quickly left his bath; but, before he was dried and 
dressed, Anders had ridden over such an extent of land 
as gave rise to the proverb I have above quoted. 

After the suppression of the monasteries Antvorskov 
became a royal residence; and here Frederic II. 
died the 4th of April, 1587. He ordered the service 
to be held in. his own room, as he was very sick; 
and when the doctor felt his pulse, the King remarked, 
"Let the pulse beat as it likes, we know the mercy 
of God will never fail." He then fainted ; and when 
he recovered, he said, " It is a curious battle between 
death and life" — fainted again shortly after, and 
expired. Anders Bedel, the parson, in his funeral 
sermon, declared, " had he abstained from wine-bibbing 
he might have now been alive and in good health." 
The Danish proverb of " Han drikke som en koe " — he 
drinks like a cow — could not be applied to King 
Frederic. I plead guilty to not having understood it 
myself at first — a cow never drinks more than neces- 
sary. Frederic, like all early reformed sovereigns, was 
never quite at his ease when he thought of the church 
spoliation he had sanctioned. So he issued an edict 
forbidding the term " kloster " to be used by man or 
woman, when speaking of Antvorskov, under pain of the 
fine of a fat ox. The fines were exacted: the royal 
herds increased in numbers ; but he could not beat it 
out of the peasants' brains — ^kloster they would call it, 
and kloster they did. 

On the fine site of Antvorskov stands a modem 



10 SIGERSTED. Chap. XXVm. 

country-house built in the olden style — a pleasant 
walk through an avenue of shady trees, at ten minnt^' 
distance from the Slot gate of the city. Slagelse boasts 
of an ancient church, in no ways remarkable from the 
rest of the ecclesiastical buildings of the country. On 
by the rail : we flit by Sor0, take up a cargo of small 
boys, and then again a stoppage. 

SIGERSTED. 

Ten minutes at Eingsted, enough at any time, and 
quite sufficient to point out to the right the village of 
Sigersted, once famous in olden story : for here dwelt 
King Sigurd, father of the fair Signe. Tall and straight 
as a lilievand * was the damsel, and beloved of Prince 
Hagbard, the Danish king's son ; but Sigurd forbad the 
marriage. Lovers' wits are proverbial — secret nuptials 
take place ; and Hagbard visits his bride, as Romeo did 
his Juliet, in secret A spy denounces the lovers to the 
king, who orders his warriors to seize the prince ; but 
they refuse, for Hagbard is bom of a giant race. Then 
speaks out the spy: "Cut off first the hair of the 
princess and bind him in her tresses; his love for 
her is too great for him to burst such chains asimder." 
Hagbard is bound in her silken chains: the Prin- 
cess Signe cries to him to break loose ; but he refuses 
" Never can I," he declares, " injure one hair of your 
head." The king orders him to be hanged ; the 
lovers agree they will never survive each other, and 
Signe vows to set fire to her bower when Hagbard 
hangs in his chains. When he approached the gibbet, 
mistrusting the constancy of woman's love, he desired 



♦ Stalk of a lily. 



Chap. XXVIII. BIRNAM WOOD STRATAGEM. 11 

the soldiers to hang up first his scarlet cloak, to see how 
he would look hereafter. Scarce had the cloak swung 
in the air, when a volume of smoke arises from the 
bower of the faithful Signe, and Hagbard, satisfied 
with her constancy, is *' launched into eternity." Then 
in rushes the '^liUe smaa dreng" before the king's 
board to annoimce the sad news how Signe and her 
maidens bum in the " h0ie loft," and all for love of 
Hagbard the Dane. "Extinguish the flames!" cries 
the king ; " cut him down ; I pardon them both." 

" But when they arrived at Signelit's bower, 
There she lay burnt in the flames ; 
And when they came where the gallows stood, 
Young Hagbard hung in his chains." 

Do not imagine the matter to have ended here. In a 
short space of time arrived from Ireland, where he was' 
comfortably settled, Hakon, brother of the murdered 
prince. Silently, accompanied by his followers, he glides 
up the waters of the Suus Aa To conceal their move- 
ments from the enemy, each warrior bears in his hand a 
branch of the beech-tree — ^Bimam wood coming to Dun- 
sioane five hundred years before it was ever heard or 
thought of in Scotland. King Sigurd discovers the 
stratagem : a battle takes place, and he is slain in the 
contest. This stratagem of bearing boughs occurs very 
often in the ancient Sagas. When a battle was fought 
near Bestaffarith, in Skaane, between the Danes and the 
Swedes, the former broke branches from the trees and 
fastened them to their horses. When the villagers saw 
it from afar, they exclaimed, " May Heaven destroy this 
walking wood, for it will make us pay bloody forfeits 
this day before the sun goes down." 



12 SEXGEL0SE. Chap. XXVni 

SENGEL0SE. 

We steam on — on, but not fast — stop at station after 
station, till we arrive at H0ie Thorstrup, passengers for 
Sengel0se; so I inspect the map; and here, not far 
removed, lies Snnbbe's Cross, concerning which there 
hangs a story : — 

It was in the thirteenth century that the Lady Snubbe, 
walking in the fields neaf Sengel0se, gave birth to a son 
and heir. Her husband, Sir Eskil Snubbe, a noble knight, 
caused a cross to be erected on the spot to commemorate 
the event, charging two of his farms alternately with the 
repairs necessary for its preservation. In the year 1817 
a quarrel arose between the proprietors of the land, 
whose duty it was to do the needful, each declaring it to 
be the turn of his neighbour ; so, as they could not settle 
the matter amicably, they pulled the cross down, and 
the name alone remains to prove the antiquity of the 
house of Snubbe with an e. 

Off again, and in three quarters of an hour we are 
landed at Copenhagen. 

ISLES— HORSENS. 

A three hours' journey brought us to Kors0r, where, 
on the quay side, smoked three steamers — one bound 
for Aarhuus, a second for the islands, and a third for 
Horsens. On the latter we embark with a head-wind 
and promise of two hours' extra passage. Towards five 
o'clock we pass the small island of Endelave, where 
myriads of flappers are trying their new-fledged wings on 
the water. Now as we enter the fiorde a small islet of 
emerald green appears faint in the horizon, flat^ almost 



Chap. XXVIII. HIARN0— ALR0. 13 

level with the waters : this is the island of Hiam0,* 
death and burial-place of the poet king. A heap of 
stones, carved over with ships of mde workmanship, 
marks the place of his interment His grave rests tm- 
disturbed by the antiquaries, though not by the cattle ; 
for many years since a mad bull tore up the turf with 
his horns and brought to light an ancient sword. The 
labourer who inhabited the farm on which the grave 
was situated declared that £rom that hour nothing but 
ill-luck happened to him. And now in the background 
rises the sister isle of Alr0, the resting-place of his 
Queen Alruna. There is something poetic in the idea 
of these two early Scandinavians, each sleeping in their 
own smaU grassy isle, the waters of the fiorde flowing 
between them. 

We coast by a wooded aitch, with an extensive farm- 
house, the property of Baron Juel, Vaar80 by name ; a 
smaller, still green and desert, called Yaars0's Calf; 
then come shipping, the towers of Horsens, windmills 
hard at work on hilltop, none so busy as the Jutland 
vrindmill. We land upon the pier, and, after ten minutes' 
walk, take up our lodgings at J0rgensens. 



♦ Hiame had reigned for some yeaiB when Friedlev the heir, whom 
the Banes imagined to have heen dead, retomed to hia natiye country, 
and Hiame, after a battle in which he was worsted, fled to the lat^T^d 
of Hiam0, disguised as a peasant : he later repairs to the court, and 
gets employed as a salt-boiler in the Boyal kitchen. He keeps his 
person so dirty, the king orders him to be washed, after which he is 
recognised. The king inquires of him " Did you come here to take my 
life? " "No," replies Hiame ; "but to decide the matter by single 
combat." Friedlev agrees, and Hiame is slain and receives honourablo 
burial in his own island. 



14 60LLER. Chap. XSSL 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

Boiler, the place of banishment of Ghriatina Munk — Her regal state- 

, The copper nail in a bed of gold — The eatable snail nataxalixed bf 

a Frenchman — Coffin of Count Grifienfeld — Prsstegaard of a J^ 

land clergyman — Agnete and the merman — The Englifth Gii^ 

Ports — Legend of the Elder Queen. 



BOLLER. 

June 15th. — Out of respect to the memory of ChrutiDa 
Munk — not that she deserved it — ^we determined to 
visit Boiler, the scene of her banishment after he 
divorce and expulsion from Frederiksborg. She re- 
mained here in confinement until the year 1646, when, 
at the intercession of her sons-in-law, she was released 
they pleaded that her imprisonment reflected a disgnioe 
upon her children. From that time matters went better; 
there was even a prospect of reconciliation between 
her and the king; and she was at her mother's in 
Funen, on her way to Copenhagen, when the news d 
his death reached her. She is said to have burst into s 
flood of tears, and, after a regular good cry, to have ex- 
claimed, ** Well, who ever would have thought I should 
have shed tears for Christian's sake ?" Christina remained 
at Boiler till her death, living in great state — a state 
which was particularly displeasing to her step-son the 
king, who sent commissioners down to Boiler to see 
what she was after, and beg she would show the proo& 
of her right to the title of Countess Slesvig-Holsteiu- 
On their arrival they were received at the gate with 



Chap. XXIX. CHRISTINA MUXK. 15 

flourishes of trumpets — a somewliat regal proceeding, 
which Christina, when she found out who they were, 
Terj much alarmed, declared to be a mistake. Proofs 
she could produce none beyond a letter in King 
Christian's own hand, directed to the well-bom Mrs. 
Christina Munk, Countess of Slesvig-Hoktein. When 
she was accused of writing ''we," she gave no answer, 
but went off into a tirade of her persecutions, &c. &c. 
From this time we hear no more about her. 

An old moated mansion is BoUer, surrounded with 
garden, farm, and wood, running down to the water's 
edge ; it is now the property of Coimt Friis. In the 
gardens stands a pollard lime-tree, under whose branches, 
supported on trellis-work, many hundred men might 
dine. Splendid oaks too, of whose possession an English 
park might be proud Christina must have known these 
trees, and perhaps under their shade may have wept — ^not 
her fault, but its discovery — ^and thought what a fool she 
had been to sacrifice honour, position, and the fortunes of 
her children,* for the attention of a chamberlain of her 
husband's court In earlier days Boiler was the scene 
of a romance more tragic stilL Queen Margaret, like 
all women, was a matchmaker ; she hated a too small 
but powerful nobility, and it was her policy to swamp 
them by marrying the younger sons to rich heiresses of 
the commercial classes, and vice versd. On her giving 
the high-born Kirsten Thott in marriage to her favour- 
ite Jeppe Muns, son of a rich burgher, the indignant 
bride presented her husband with a gold ring, in which 
was encnisted a copper nail, with this inscription: 

* The youngest of whom Christian refbaed to reoognise. Ellen Mars- 
viin sent her off to Cologne, inhere she was brought up as a convent 
boarder, and later took the veil. 



16 BOLLER. Chap. XXCl 

^ Arte dig kaaber nagle, die ligger i guld " (flourisli, 
copper nail, thou liest in gold). Queen Margaret counted 
not on the vengeance of the bride's betrothed, Holg^ 
Munk, the lord of Boiler, who, to the rage of the 
queen, picked a quarrel with the bridegroom, killed 
him, and married his widow the next day. 

There is something very attractive in these DaniA 
country-seats, reminding you much of England as it is 
still in many parts, and was formerly, before the vil- 
lanous taste of sundry landscape-gardeners destroyed 
our fine old gardens, and laid low our trim avenues. 
Our grounds are well kept, radiant with American 
shrubs and flowers; but in nine places out of ten 
where can you walk and meditate ? — straight you cannot 
go ; either you tumble into an iron fence and march 
into the centre of a flower-bed, or get stranded among 
the rock-work, a foot upon zig, a foot upon zag: no 
reveries, no brown-6tudy in an English garden, and 
very little shade into the bargain. In France you have 
your clipped charmille — ^your terrace, wide and imposing 
— ^your plate-bandes, laid out perhaps too formally, but 
very charming altogether, and adapted to the climate 
of a joyous sunny land. What I enjoy in these Danidi 
residences is the combination of aU these advantages 
together. Your garden gay with old-fashioned flowers, 
glorious roses ; then, further removed, the lime avenue 
— "se perdant dans les bois" — those lovely woods 
running «dways to the water's edge. The only thing I 
disapprove of is the stagnant moat, telling of fever ; it 
must be unwholesome, and should be let off from time 
to time. 

Not far removed from the chateau of Boiler stands the 
parish church of Uth. If you love old stone monmnents 



CHAP. XXIX, VJEHR. 17 

of armed knight and highrbom lady, visit it, and you 
will be gratified : Gyldemstieme and BoBenkrantz — old 
Jutland names ; the latter perhaps the most distinguished 
of Denmark. 

In the afternoon we drove over to Steensballegaard, 
the seat of Baron Juel, on the opposite side of the fiorde 
to BoUer, remarkable for the beauty of its site. The 
entrance through the gaard^ or £Emnyard — the moated 
grange itself, surrounded on one side by a square of 
farm-buildings — shocks an English eye ; but when gen- 
tlemen farm on the scale of Jutlanders — ^feed and lodge 
some hundred retainers — ^it is necessary to keep these 
matters near at hand. An avenue of limes, some half 
a mile in length, led us to a MQ-top, from whence we 
mounted to an adjoining h0i, commanding the country 
round and the Horde below. Hiam0 and Alr0, Vaar80 
and her Calf— glorious woods and pasture-lands — ^a real 
Danish landscape. The country is refreshed after a long 
drought by frequent showers. The Helix pomatia — 
eatable snail — ^here abounds : excellent for consumptive 
patients. You find them in England in the " Pilgrim's 
walks" — Sir Eenelm Digby too introduced them in the 
neighbourhood of Croydon ; his wife, the Lady Venetia, 
affected them much for the benefit of her complexion ; 
so tradition says: and here at BoUer, as well as at 
Leihraborg, the only two places where they exist in 
Denmark, they were introduced by a Frenchman. 

We returned home by Vaehr, a small village, the last 
resting-place of Griffenfeld, who, after twenty-seven 
years' imprisonipent in the fortress of Munkholm, near 
Tronyem, died at the house of his only daughter, 

VOL. II. 



18 ViEHB. Chap. XXIX. 

Baroness Krag, a.d. 1697, in his sixty-third year. We 
stopped our carriage at the prsest^aard to demand the 
church keys ; the pastor himself accompanied us. Giif- 
fenfeld's remains lie in an oak coffin, above ground, 
placed in an open chapel or dormitorium. A simple 
inscription on a gilded plate informs the reader that 
within repose the mortal remains of Christian Y .'s Grand 
Chancellor; this plate, however, moves with a secret 
spring, and below appears a second, on which are in- 
scribed his honours and titles, in all the pomp of heraldry. 
'^ The illustrious, noble, and well-bom, &c. (son of a small 
wine-vender — rather too much that), Knight of the 
Elephant, Denmark's Lord Chancellor," followed np by 
the history of his disgrace, date of his imprisonmmit 
and death — ^an inscription the family dared not exhiUt 
at the period of his death. His wife is buried in a vault 
below.* 

We returned to our carriage through the prsesteg^aaid, 
the pastor having invited us to visit his domain. It may 
amuse you perhaps to have a description of the parson- 
age of a Jutland clergyman. You first drive through an 
archway into the gaard or square court — ^a yard sur- 
rounded with- farm-buildings: opposite stands the house 
occupied by the family ; a few lime-trees are planted in 
the centre ; a house-dog barks violently, as though he'd 
break his chain; cocks, and hens, and chicks stalk 
alJDut; carts and horses; but no manure — all clean, 
though somewhat untidy. The houses consist mostly 
.of one story : you enter rooms scrupulously neat and 



* Baron Krag, hia son-in-law, has a long epltapbinm ; twice ambas- 
sador to Paris ; three times married ; twelve children by Griffenfeld's 
daughter ; a very grand wig and lace jabot, picked out most tastefuDy 
in white marble. 



Chap. XXIX. JUTLAND PRJSSTEQAARD. 19 

dean ; windows opening on the other side into a flower- 
garden ; lots of roses, lilacs, and common flowers. Here 
the garden led into a hanging beech wood, with wallss 
and seats ; a s0 or lake below — small, bat large enough 
for the enjoyment of a boat, and flsh in plenty. Then 
there is sure to be an orchard and vegetable garden, and 
a lim^-avenne leading somewhere. The Danish clergy 
are poorly paid ; bat> £Eurming on a considerable scale, 
their poverty is not of a repulsive kind, like that of 
towns : they have plenty at hand— eggs, butter, milk, 
poultry, pigs in profusion, cut their own turf from the 
never-absent mose for winter fuel. I inquired of our 
new acquaintance how many cows he kept " Very few," 
he replied; "I have but a small farm— only twelve." 
Complaint is made that when their iiEams are too large 
they are apt to think more of their cows than of their 
parishioners. From those with whom I have become 
acquainted, I should say they were a well-educated, 
mild, gentlemanlike set of men : their wives good and 
useful helpmates, doing their duty in their state of life, 
and, like their husbands, simple-minded, and entirely 
jfree fipom all pretension — ^the very great charm of the 
Danish nation in general — at the same time void of all 
mauvaise honte or awkwardness. These praestegaards 
may be little soign^ to our refined ideas ; but I don't feel 
quite sure that the £Btrm-house plenty which surrounds 
them does not fiiUy compensate for the absence of the 
neat green entrance-gate, and the laurel-girt drive round 
the well-mowed grass-plot, before the house-door of an 
English parsonage. 



2 



20 SEANDERBORG. Chap. XXIX. 

SKANDERBORG. 

Jwm Vlih. — Breakfasted this moming at Skandeiv 
borg. Lucky we did not sleep there last night One 
hundred Danish students from the University of (3o- 
penhagen, on a walking tour through Jutland — very 
joyous — serenading the authorities wherever they go — 
were camped in the hotel, like a swarm of locusts. 
They had not, however, devoured everything, but we 
fared perhaps better for their presence. We are now 
in the land of plenty — no more " portions " served by 
rule, but large buffets spread out with a dozen cold 
dishes, meat and aspics, eggs and salad — eat as much 
as you like at two marks a head. We did not remain 
long at Skanderborg— just time enough to walk down 
to the castle islet — ^regret its destruction — ^to wonder 
whether it was within that sole remaining turret the 
havfrue (mermaid) danced on the floor while she foretold 
the fate of good Queen Dagmar; who, Christian-like, 
instead of " fiying her on the fire," as the she-woman-fish 
anticipated, clothed her " in scarlet red " and had her 
conducted back in safety to the waters of the Kattegat 

I should really like to know what fish has given rise 
to the fable of the mermaid and man so prevalent in 
these northern seas — havfrue and havman, as they are 
called — ^for in Denmark no legend is complete witbont 
them. When in early days a young girl committed 
suicide by drowning, the act was set down to tJie 
blandishments of some merman, who enticed her to the 
depths below ; as in the beautiful ballad of ' Agnete,' 
where the havman " stoppede " her ears and " stoppede " 
her mouth, and carried her to the coral caves below. 
Agnete lives with her spouse for nine years, and bears 



Ce^. XXIX. AGNETE AND THE MERMAN. 21 

him seven children; when one day she hears under the 
water " the ehurqh-bells of England ring," and is seized 
with a very proper desire to attend mass. Her fishy 
lover grants her permission, stops her ears and mouth, 
and leaves her on the strand. Agnete follows into the 
church her mother, who asks her, " Where have you been 
thefie last years nine ?" She replies, ^ Under the deep 
water with my lord the havman." Once on land, Agnete 
shows no desire to return. The merman follows her to 
the church—-" his face is feir, his eye is blue, and his 
long hair shines like living gold " — ^but as he enters the 
door, "all the saints and angels avert their heads." 
"Come back, come back," he cries; "Agnete, your 
children cry after you. 

" Oh, think upon the great ; oh, think upon the small ; 
Oh, think upon the little one who lies in the cradle/' 

But Agnete, heartless creature, refuses, and replies — 

" I won't think upon the great or think upon the small, 
Hah! Hah! Hah! 
Nor thmk upon the little one who cries in the cradle, 
Hah! Hah! Hah!" 

Long and dreary was the way — sometimes catching 
. a glimpse of the MOS-S0 on the hill-top — ^till we arrived 
at the ancient but tumbledown church of Dover. We 
are all among the Cinque Ports to-day. Further on to 
the left lies Bye. Sandwig, in ancient times written 
" wich^" lies by the sea-coast. Strange our five most 
ancient harbours of importance in England should all 
bear names of Scandinavian origin. Hastings derives 
her title from the pirate chief: and Winchelsea — 
Vinkel S0 ; though who this Vinkel might be who dared 



22 SKANDERBORG. Chap. XXIX. 

to name apart of our ocean S0, as though aboggy tarn in 
his own marshy Jutland, I am unprepared to say. 

A pouring rain — one of nature's own shower-baths — 
catches us just as we arrive at the end of Enud-S0 — 
a lovely lake — ^not blue to-day, but agitated into wave- 
lets by the stormy breeze— all sand here. Slowly the 
^'wagen" trails its way through the rots; on foot we 
fare worse; impossible to walk. But we mount the 
hill-side, and after a heavy tug arrive at the kro of 
Tulstrup. Here the panting horses rest to bait The 
shower is over — sun bursts out — ^we can gaze at the 
lake below from the village cemetery on the adjoining 
h0L Humble and towerless is Tulstrup churdh; Hb 
bell hangs suspended to a wooden belfiy in the church- 
yard, itself of most unpretending form and principle; but 
the small degraded edifice, built of granite, is surely of 
noble foundation — a thank-offering probably, though no 
legend attests the supposition. It is of early date ; a 
round arch doorway, adorned with early carvings — ^as 
works of art on a par with King Gorm's Stone at Jd- 
linge. On one side a yawning wolf (l0ve lure, the old 
sacristan calls it) on his hind legs, as large as life, with 
huge protruding tongue; on the opposite a damsel, 
resembling those very primitive wooden dolls you some- 
times see displayed in a huckster's shop — ^large head, 
immoveable arms, long feet, and petticoat parted round 
the waist In her hand she holds a distaff, as I imagine 
it to be, and looks ready to faint away from fear of the 
ravenous wolf — nothing but a church-door between 
them. At the other entrance we have the Angel of 
Christianity trampling upon the Dragon of Paganism. 
Above, the same lady seated, with an infant in her arms. 



Chaf.XXIX. TULSTRUP church. 23 

The angel holds a purse of gold in his hand ; my ideas 
are that the lady has given a purse of gold to build the 
church, in consequence of a tow she has made. Deaf 
old sacristan knows nothing, not even to what saint the 
church is dedicated. We go in; at one end lies an 
enormous oak chesty cross-barred over with iron bands 
into a tartan pattern. We try to raise the lid; it requires 
all the united efforts of aged sacristan and stronger self 
to do so ; and now we find two small square compart- 
ments — same form, same pattern — ^fitted with massive 
lock and key, expressly to contain the church plate, 
and preserve it safe from robber hand ; but where is it ? 
Two blue glass vessels serve now for the sacrament ; on 
the altar-table the very candles are wooden saveaUs ; a 
small fat-lamp inserted in the top is used at Sabbath 
Vespers. . Churchwardening flourishes here, even in these 
high latitudea The ancient granite font is painted 
verdant green, like a suburban garden gate. The open 
seats bear date 1587. 

In the churchyard I stumbled on what I have never 
before met with — ^a grave covered over with the roughly 
severed trunk of a tree, unbarked, rudely-fashioned; 
a sarcophagus like that once placed over the grave of 
Queen Hedvig at S0borg. 

And now they summon us from the h0i-top, from 
which we have made out another lake, Lille-S0 by 
name. The horses are baited; on with our journey. 
We just distinguish the winding of Juul Lake and a 
little promontory jutting out into its waters, terminated 
by a sepulchral mound — ^the Scandinavian who chose 
such a site must have been a poet — ^when, as we climb the 
hill before arriving at Linaa, concerning which place I 
have a story to relate, down comes again a torrent 



24 SEANDERBORG. Chap. TSEL 

plump upon our heads. We take lefiige under railiroj 
wrappers, and may have passed through a paradise for 
what we know. When we again peep forth from cm 
shelter, the postboy points to a branch of elder-flowen 
the maid-servant bears in her hand, shakes his head, and 
then points to the clouds fleeting through the air. Made- 
moiselle Th^r^, in her ignorance, had plucked dining 
our halt at Tulstrup a branch of these flowers, preservar 
tives, if steeped in water, against tan and freckle6» 
without first demanding permission of Hyldemoir, *' the 
elder-queen," who avenges any molestation of her tree, 
and no peasant would dare to pluck its flowers without 
first addressing her in the following words : — " O, EUIdi, 
our mother ; 0, Hildi, our mother ! let me take some 
of thy elder." These words thrice repeated, she grants 
permission willingly enough, but, according to the post- 
boy's theory, it was the neglect of this observance whidi 
caused this pelting hail, this inhospitable reception to 
the Highlands of Jutland. 

Dark is the superstition of the peasant as regards the 
elder-queen, and woe to the child who sleeps in a cradle 
of elder-wood. No sooner does the mother quit the 
room than Hyldemoir appears ; vampire-like, she sucks 
its life-blood from its breasts, she puUs it by the legs^ 
and torments the helpless infant in every possible manner. 
Still the elder-tree has been revered from the earliesl 
times, and the peasant as well as the artizan loves to 
plant it near his dwelling ; it brings good luck to the 
baker and to the gardener; leave it alone, and Hylde- 
moir will do you no injury. 

The elements have ceased their war; and now we 
enter a glorious valley, hills on each side coated with 
beech and pine— bewh in their golden foliage still; 



Chap. XXIX. APPROACH TO SILKEBORG. 26 

the heather brown, the reindeer lichen white and abun- 
dant ; later the leaves will become brown and the heather 
purple^ 80 each season has its charms if mankind will 
only see it We are now on the royal chauss^e ; electric 
telegraph on each side of us. The horses are fagged as 
we are. We meet troops of peasants^ cows, and horses — 
evidently a fair going on — preach the end of the plain — 
pouring rain again — turn down a hill, catch sight of a lake, 
a town, a confused idea of river and other matters — ^all 
very charming when you are dry, but disgusting when 
you are half drowned : and so we made our entry into 
the most youthful of Denmark's cities, her youngest 
daughter, ihe town of Silkeborg, 



26 SILKEBORG. Coap, JXL 



CHAPTEE XXX. 

Silkeborg -^ Gap of Bishop Peter — The Jniland lakes —The treuoR* 
seeker — Himmelbjerg, Queen of the Jutland mountains — The 
fiery beacon — Lovers of Laven Castle — The paper manafiEustorr. 



SILKEBORG. 

We found the "Dania" in a terrible state of bnstie, 
no chance of rooms before evening ; after a long^ delaf 
we got our dinners served, and it was a wonder we did 
such a crowd as there was below — ^farmers by the gn» 
buying, selling, and chaffering. Towards supset the fair 
took itself off, and we were left in peace and quietness. 
Hans Andersen had described to us what we were to 
see, and lent us the translation of his charming little 
book, * To Be or not to Be,* which told us the tales 
and legends of the neighbourhood, for, to the Englifih 
traveller, Silkeborg is still a terra incognita; the 
very maps of our country, as well as the Handbook, 
ignore its existence. When on our arrival at Copen- 
hagen last autumn we spoke of our tour in Jutland, 
the first question invariably was, "How did you like 
Silkeborg? Not seen Silkeborg? Is it possible?" 
until we felt quite cross, and began to look upon it as a 
sort of Jutland "Mrs. Harris," expressly invented for 
our botheration. Then we began to inquire what and 
where Silkeborg really was, and soon learned how some 
ten years since it was nought but a beautiful and dreary 
waste, the resort of gipsies, uninhabited and uncnl- 



Chap. XXX. PAPER MANUFACTORT. 27 

tivated; and how in the space of a few years it bad risen 
to the rank of a flourishing town of fourteen hundred 
inhabitants, increasing daily in wealth and prosperity. 
IFourteen years have now elapsed since Mr. Drewsen, 
etrack by the advantageous site, on the lake side, with 
the abundant waters of the Guden Aa, determined to 
turn to account this useless stream, and establish there 
a paper manufactory ; he did so, and succeeded : his 
paper gained the great prize both at the English 
and French Exhibitions, no manufacturer having yet 
(Bqualled the glazing of the material, which is formed 
by a machine of his own invention. The manufactory 
stands at the entrance of the town, near the bridge which 
spans the Guden Aa; beyond stands the modem resi- 
dence of Mr. Drewsen, in the midst of a fair and fruitful 
garden, now a wilderness of roses, the old-fashioned 
yellow cabbage — ^so luxuriant in the Lion Court of the 
Alhambra, but most capricious to bloom in England— the 
Damask, the York and Lancaster, and the Cinnamon, va- 
rieties long since expelled fix)m modem English gardens. 
If you fancy, because Silkeborg is the youngest town 
of the Danish dominions, she has no history of her own, 
no legend, you are much mistaken ; on the very ground 
where we now stand once proudly frowned the towers of 
her castle, a stronghold of the Bishops of Aarhuus. Put 
by the paper and its manufactory, and fancy yourself 
carried back to the twelfth century, when Bishop Peter 
Bagnsen* held the diocese of Aarhuus. For reasons 
best known to himself, he determined to build a chateau 



* Died 1204. His mother Ingeborg was niece to Sir Asker Byg, and 
sister to the murdered cousin whom Bishop Absalon canonized. Bee 
vol i. p. 106. 



28 SILEEBOBG. Chap. HI 

fort on the very banks of the Lang-S0 ; so he joumeji 
forth to fix the site, accompanied by a prior and « 
stalwart knight, one of his relations; and in an opa 
boat they sail down the Guden Aa to the borders of tb 
Lang-S0. "Build it here," exclaims the prior, pointisg 
to a promontory hard by. " Nonsense !" said the knight; 
" trust to my judgment, I am a military man ;" and tiiej 
wrangle and dispute until the bishop's patience is quite 
worn out, when a sudden gust of wind catches his silkei 
skull-cap, and away it flies into the deep waters. " lA 
it go," exclaims Bishop Peter : " where the cap stays ito 
course, there will we build a fortress, and call its nam 
Silkeborg." 

We have three days' sight-seeing before ns, takiif 
matters quietly in homoeopathic doses, so we started tbs 
morning at ten o'clock. Our road ran by the Lang-^ 
where all the world seemed busy making bricks, qji to 
the Amalia Kilde, by the forest side, a spring quiie 
chalybeate enough to be nasty, good water spoilt Ij 
a taste of rusty iron. This spring is a favourite pioiie 
and tea-drinking spot of the Silkeborgians : seats, and 
large wooden tables capable of dining twenty-four, are 
placed on the lake's bank, under the- shade; a mstie 
open-air kitchen, where you may fry your own fish, and 
then eat them afterwards. How the old women in thii 
country pass their livelong day, sitting out of doors, with- 
out dying before morning, was to me a mystery, until I 
witnessed one day the ascent of an aged matron into • 
stuhlwagen. She wore ten knitted woollen petticoats at 
the smallest calculation ; yon might have plump^ her 
down flat in the middle of a bog without her perceiving 
the dampness of her situation. From the age of fifty until 
she is gathered to her fathers, a woman in Denmark be- 



Chap. XXX. TH£ WOODS. 29 

takes herself to knitting warm petticoatB, at the ratio of 
one per annum, which she wears over that of the pre- 
ceding year, until she becomes a moving mass of woollen 
&bricy defying rheumatism, lumbago, damp, and all 
such sublunary evils to which age is heir ; but the old 
women know best There is an old Danish proverb — 
'' Man klaeder sig paa Fransk, og fryser paa Dansk " 
— Dress like a Frenchman, and you'll fireeze as a Dane. 
The woods* have become close and stujBy in these 
unpruned regions ; the cranberry is in full bloom, and 
the small trailing sBren-priis, as they here term the 
veronica, of brilliant blue ; a dwarf genista too, with 
golden flowers. After resting at Drew8enh0i, com- 
manding the village of Lysang-bro, on the opposite 
side of the lake, we again glance at that named after 
King Frederic VII., whence we had a glorious view 
over bills clothed with beech and pine, and the moor 
below was studded with heaps of turf ranged in pyra- 
mids, first one, then two by two, looking like some 
faneral train wending through the valley. Suddenly we 
turn to the left, when a panorama bursts upon our view, 
a net-work of deep blue lakes as far as the eye can 
gaze ; there may be five, there may be ten, they are so 
tangled one within another. We proceeded onward a 
little longer, and then returned home through a wood 
carpeted with the trefoil leaf of the wood-sorrel. Huge 
anthills rise pyramidical under the pine-trees — the 
black ant, from which formic acid and vinegar are 
extracted in Norway. We find dinner waiting ; soup, 
veal-cutlets admirably dressed, salads, and oomp6tes 

* These woods were visited by Christian IV. "Oct. 21st, 1616, 
* Drog jeg * from Skanderborg to Silkeborg. 22nd was I in the forest, 
and ordered timber to be cut down." — Chrittian IV,'8 Journal. 



30 SILKEBOBG. Ch^. XCL 

of five or six varieties, large dish of wild fitrawbemes, 
and plenty of rich creanu The apartment too \m 
been swept and garnished, and a little salon arranged 
for ns; sofas and chairs dragged in, pictures hnngot 
the walls, bowpots too "of pinks and roses. The land- 
lady hopes we are comfortable ; she has done her best; 
of oonrse we are pleased. I don't know what Jutlaiiii 
may be some ten years hence, when intersected hj 
railroads and civilization ; at present, if you meet with 
aught but civility and attention, it is your own &iilt 
In the evening we again drove out, and a channing drive 
it was ; but blue lakes, green woods, and brown heathei; 
though beautiful in themselves, sound tiresome on paper, 
and you have already had a dose of them. 

June 19th. — ^Little Lina, the Blenheim spaniel^ m 
wagging her tail, imploring of Jacques, the manHaerraid, 
to put her up into the carriage before everybody, dread- 
fully a&aid she might be forgotten among those b^ 
hoop petticoats, indispensable necessaries for ladies trav^ 
ling in Jutland. We were all ready to start, and seatei 
when a black cloud appears overshadowing the whok 
heaven, but the weather cannot be worse than it ym 
the day of our arrival. We may come in for a rainbo* 
among the hills; no use waiting, so we crossed the 
bridge over the Guden Aa : the river is covered wi& 
water-lilies, and teems with trout, pike, and crayfidb. 
The eels, which they served us en aspic this momiDg 
for breakfast, came from the lake hard by, where a 
small striped skipper-house, now turned into a beer- 
house, with tea-garden, skittles, and poppinjay, wis 
once the residence of the keeper who superintended 
the taking and sale of the eels, in earlier days a royal 
monopoly. 



Cbap.XXX. JUTLAND lakes. ^ 31 

Some years since an enonnotis pike was found dead 
on the Guden Aa's bank, together with an eagle, whose 
daws were firmly imbedded in his flesh. The bird had 
pounced upon his prey, and the fish, unable to extricate 
himself from the talons of his enemy, plunged beneath 
the waters, dragging his antagonist along with him ; so 
they both perished, and are now preserved stuffed, as 
they were found, in a private collection at Bilkeborg. 

A two hours' drive brings us to an old striped gaard. 
An aged peasant opens wide the gate; four skiUings 
is his fee. We pass through, leave the carriage on a 
plateau by the forest side strewed with paper and burnt 
ashes, relics of the students' picnic, and then in two 
minutes' time we stand upon the Himmelbjerg, five 
hundred and fifty feet above the level of the sea — a mere 
molehill to Alpine travellers, but here equal to as many 
thousands in a highland range. 

Jujie 20th. — These Jutland lakes are strung like birds' 
egg? on a thread, connected by one continuous stream, 
the Guden Aa, up whose placid waters in days gone 
by many a viking has sailed his victorious craft, laden 
Mrith the spoils of England, Gaul, and Italy; and 
in these mor^ peaceful days steamboats, bearing the 
red-cross flag, will ply from Banders upwards, when 
Silkeborg has become, as aU men prophesy she will, the 
Birmingham of Jutland, bearing this time not plundered 
riches, but the produce of honesty, industry, and enter- 
prise. 

The otter will then be chased from his lair ; he now 
abounds, and along the banks you may mark his track. 
Salmon, too — so plentiful, that by law no servant of 
Banders town can be fed with its flesh more than once 
a week — will soon disappear. The banks of the Guden 



32 SILKEBORG. Chap. XU 

Aa are flat till it passes near Silkeborg, and there ve 
string on to its waters the Lang S0, about whicli I 
have nothing to tell you save the story of the treasoie- 
seeker — ^Peter Guldgraver — a Holsteiner by birth. To 
him was revealed in a dream the existence of a mi^ttr 
treasure, buried long since by the ancient lords of tb 
castle. Find it he would : in the year 1780 he sold Ik 
Holstein farm, and came a stranger to the wide Jatiand 
waste ; he dug and dug deeper and deeper, till mooer 
wasted and hope grew sick; stiU he dug on. Some 
say he died, buried by a fall of earth just when the 
pickaxe had struck upon the hidden treasure, and thii 
his whitened skeleton still lies clutching at the gold 
almost within his bony grasp, like that of Diomede 
found beneath the ashes of Pompeii He fell a Ticfni 
to the malice of some Jutland witch. 

String on quickly to our flowing stream the 0m Se. 
the Bras S0, and later the Borre S0 — weU viewed in it* 
mild woodland beauties from the Amaliarh0i ; and dot 
we stand on Aasen Point ; the vaster Juul lake lies st 
our feet But observe only the hills opposite : look «t 
those two gigantic mounds, sepulture of some warrior 
king ; look at the smaller ones raised for humbler meiL 
What an eruption of hillocks! brown and bare, too, 
are these barrows, once, no doubt, clothed with beech 
and silver birch. Fire has passed over them, ignited 
by some gipsy camp or careless benighted traveller : a> 
we string on to our thread the Juul S0, spotted over 
with islands, and we stand again upon Himmelbjeig— 
Himmelbjerg, like the AngKan Thyre, pride of the 
Danes and queen over all Jutland mountains. 

She stands alone before the lakeside, queenlike, hold- 
ing her court ; her ladies range themselves behind her. 



:iBAP XXX. HIMMELBJERO. $3 

To the left stands the grande maitresse, a fat stumpy 
>ld hill, tricked out in purple and yellow squares and 
patches of roseate clover, red, purple, and yellow — very 
bad taste if you will — but the grande maitresse never 
knew how to dress herself; she gets her gown from that 
dowdiest of all court milliners, old Mrs. Nature. Behind 
Himmelbjerg stand her ladies, attired in green, fresh 
and springlike, plumed in feathery beech — somewhat 
sunburnt, it must be owned, from constant exposure to 
the weather. One is distinguished from the rest, for 
she bears from early times a fiery beacon on her crest, 
lighted in the days of Skipper Clemens, and even in the 
present century, to summon the land to arms to repel 
the invader or suppress the 0pror.* Last of all defile 
before her a range of youthful hillocks : lowly they bow 
before their queen, in their clothing of purple and 
brown, relieved by garlands of golden broom, glistening 
with crystallized sand, somewhat heavy ; but travellers 
can't expect to find much " chic " in Jutland. 

Mark well that point to the right, on the opposite 
side of the Juul lake, a small promontory clothed with 
wood: there, says tradition, once stood the towers of 
Laven Castle. Here, in Pagan times, resided a petty 
king, whose only daughter was wooed by a neighbouring 
Smaa Kongo like himself, but the father forbad the mar- 

* Beacons axe common enongh in the Danish dominions, as we later 
fomid. In former days it was the custom to •* send the Budstikke*' 
a smaU piece of wood with the name of the king cut at the two ends, 
passed from man to man, to summon the people to war; a branch 
of willow, burnt at either end, was also used. He who missed the 
** gathering'* was hanged to the same branch of willow at the entrance 
of his own field, and his house burnt to the ground. When at Frederilcs- 
borg the king showed me a small piece of stone inscribed with Runic 
characters — the only specimen, I believe, still in existence— which was 
formerly used in the duchy of Slesvig for the same purpose. 
VOL. II. D 



34 SILKEBORG. Chap. XH. 

riage. The lover introduced himself into Laven Castle 
in disguise ; some say as a blind harper. Be that as il 
may, the tire-woman one morning at early dawn found 
her mistress's bed untenanted, like in the old song — 

** Lady Jane she'd gone off with that silly blind harper. 

That silly blind harper who plainly could see. 
Twang-twankadillo, Twang-twankadillo, dillo, dillo, dee.** 

And now the coursers are saddled, and hot pursuit gaiia 
on the flying pair: closely the maiden clings to her 
lover's neck. They pass where Sveibsek ferry-house now 
stands — ^you see the spot before you — ^then reach thd 
forest^ and near the old ranger's house among the oaks 
he loses his hat — " Hattenses " the place is still ccdled— 
and then, closely pressed by his pursuers, he tries to 
ford the river. Horse and riders both plunge into the 
stream; the courser stumbles, sinks, then rises again, 
and now sinks deeper and deeper and gradually dis- 
appears, for no human aid can avail them — horse, 
king,* and damsel suffocated, drowned in the morass, 
which closes above their heads, before the eyes of the 
agonized father. The place where the king lover lo^ 
his life is still called by the peasants of the countij 
** Kongensdyp." Tradition tells no more: but maybe 
the body of that fair princess has been rescued from its 
muddy grave, and later reposed beneath the green b^ 
on that little promontory before remarked, jutting onl 
into the waters of the Juul lake. 

But if Himmelbjerg holds her court here on high, an 
English princess, not less powerful — ^Morgana, sister 
of good King Arthur, fairified by tradition — reigns below 
on that black moor, striking wonder and admiratioB 
into the minds of the simple Jutlanders. We did not 
meet her — ^she was absent during the time of our visit 



Chap. XXX. CHAIN OF LAKES. 35 

Endless are the traditions of this wild half-unknown 
country. On the moor near Silkebprg once stood a 
large square stone, inscribed with Eunic characters, 
illegible to the most wise, even to the witches of the 
country. The peasants saw it and revered, regard- 
ing it with a superstitious dread ; for beneath lay hid 
a treasure of solid gold, the size and weight of a full- 
grown Jutlander (18 stone, or thereabouts). One day a 
stranger herdsman laid his tether on it ; the stone sank 
deep into the morass and disappeared, but not for ever, 
for the wise women say that in some future time, when 
Denmark's king shall be a prisoner in a foreign land, 
the stone will reappear, and the treasure be found, — > 
a king's ransom. 

We now string on the Knud 80 — ^last week all wave- 
lets, to-day calm and unruffled — and next come Eye 
M0lle S0 and the Eye mills (pronounce it Eeu), where 
once a cloister stood, oft honoured by the presence of 
King Christopher, who loved to hunt the wild boar in 
this neighbourhood. Old folks will still tell you tales of 
ravening wolves, and show you the pits for wild boars : 
races both long since extinct Now come the Ves 80 
and the Guden 80, and then in the distance, not visible 
to the eye, links on the Mos 80, our old acquaintance, 
fiill of fish; later comes Skanderborg. Our chain is 
now complete — ^twelve Ifiie eggs on one thread of waters : 
a very pretty collection, is it not ? 

After one last glance we bid adieu to Himmelb- 
jerg, and, stopping one moment at the old eastern 
well to draw a draught of water, drive home through the 
heath and forest Only look how the dormice scamper 
among the ferns, wide awake, for to-day is the longest 
day, and that day dedicated to St Vitus. Old style it 

D 2 



36 SILEEBORG. Cbap. ISL 

may be; but the mice know nothing about that» and 
stick to their old customs. 

Ducks and wild geese abound on the lakes ; ployers 
and black game on the moors. You can sail, if yoQ 
like, in a Utile boat on the Guden Aa &om SilkebcHg 
downwards, threading in your course the waters I have 
here enumerated, sleeping at the roadside inn of Bjd 
You can fish, you can shoot — only do not get bogged, 
like the Smaa Kongo : you can draw, you can botaniae, 
living cheaply and well at the " Dania ;" and, if yoi 
have time to spare, while away many a pleasant daj 
in the midst of the varying scenery of HimTnelbjeig 
and the lake-bound city of Silkeborg. 

We did not leave Silkeborg without yisiting tibe 
" Fabrik," in which I was agreeably surprised. No raia- 
pageous machinery tearing itself to pieces, but quiet 
sedate cylinders, rolling noiselessly along in compaflT 
with running water. We were first introduced to tie 
rags, specimens of which hung suspended, like clothien' 
samples to a card, twenty-five varieties, mostly of veiy 
coarse material ; and here for the first time I learned 
how the finest writing-paper used for billets-doux is ma(k 
from coarse home-spun worn-out labourers' shirts and 
dishclouts; then came the old sails — sails that have 
borne a gallant craft o'er wave and ocean, in process d 
time become transformed into that thin satin high-glas^ 
tissue, oftenest pink or yellow, used by smart shop- 
keepers for lining handkerchief-boxes, and sometimes, 
though I pity those who use it, into "old-fashioned 
foreign post." Coarse toile d'emballage, as the French 
term it, such as encases bales of cotton, and that used 
by gardeners for basket-covering, again finds favour in 
the packing line in the form of coarse brown paper. 



Chap. XXX. PAPKR-MAKIKG. 37 

I climbed a ladder to inspect the rags previous to their 
purification. Heavens, what filth I and to think they 
must be sorted into twenty-five heaps and don't breed 
a pestilence I When sorted they are tumbled into a 
huge boiler, 'shovelled in with quick lime, and there 
simmer for twenty-four hours (thirty-six would not be 
too much), next carried up stairs, all dye and dirt re- 
moved, and then boiled for twelve more. Having now 
gamed a clean bill of health, they are combed to death and 
destruction, become masses of whitened pulp, like fresh- 
scraped charpie for a Parisian ambulance ; next, when 
reduced to a finer substance, like curds and sour milk, it 
is carefully strained in running water. Now, as water- 
gruel, it passes over a green canvas ; at the third cylinder 
spreads out like wafer on a coarse blanket; later it 
begins to dry, and then for the first time runs alone, 
and, bravely leaping over the chasm between the two 
cylinders, falls dry and solid into the arms of the chopping 
apparatus, which dips it into three and prunes its edges ; 
then it is rolled up a mile in length and handed over to 
the opposite side of the establishment for glazing, for 
which process a patent has been taken out by the pro- 
prietor in all the countries of Europe. In other manu- 
factories the paper is glazed in sheets already cut ; here 
in one long rouleau it passes between hot cylinders — goes 
in one side rough, and comes out on the other glazed 
with varnish : the process to an unintellectual eye ap- 
pearing as simple as it is successful 



38 LINAA. Chap. XSL 



CHAPTEB XXXI. ' 

The fish and the 'ring — Fortunes of the honse of Stabbe — TSi 
traitor page — Marsk Stig, the ontlaw — Gh&teau of Friiaenbcog- 
Artificial egg etching. 



LINAA, 

Jwm 2\%t. — The horses are ordered at six o'clock— i 
is nearly seven before they arrive — ^postiUon oveinl^ 
himself. We retrace our steps as &r as the village 
of Linaa, concerning which I before promised yon i 
story. 

Many centuries ago there lived, in the neigllboll^ 
hood of the kro where we now stand, three sist^ 
Linaa, DaU, and Bjara by name, as remarkable for their 
piety as for their riches. Their father, a fierce viking 
on his departure upon some majrauding expedition, cod- 
fided to their care his treasure, and then disappeared 
firam the face of the earth — killed in battle, slain, a 
drowned ; so his daughters wisely dug up his gold, in- 
stead of leaving it to grace in modem days the cabinete 
of the Musee Scandinave, and divided it among them; 
each determined to apply a part of her share to a good 
purpose very much in vogue at that period — ^the build- 
ing of a church. Three sacred edifices soon rose proudly 
on the banks of the adjoining lake, on the spots where 
the villages of Linaa, Dallerup, and Bjarup now stuid 
For matins, mid-day, and vesper song, these pious damseb 
passed the water in a boat — quite edifying it would 



Chap. XSXL, THE FISH AND THE RING. 39 

haye been to the surrounding popiilation, but unfor- 
tunately there was no one to see them ; Jutland was 
then a bleak^ bare desert, quite uninhabited. One 
Sabbath mom the sisters as usual rowed across the 
w^aters of the lake ; Bjara held the oars, Linaa steered, 
while Dall was busily employed looking out the morn- 
ing lessons in her Book of Hours. The bark now touches 
land; the sisters leap ashore — when suddenly Bjara 
misses from her finger her golden ring, the gift of her 
viking father. " My ring, my ring ! " cries Bjara ; " some- 
body must have taken it ; lost — stolen I" — and she begins 
to hunt in eyery corner of the boat, but without suc- 
cess ; so, waxing wroth, she invokes maledictions on the 
head of the man, woman, or living thing, who may have 
deprived her of her ornament Loud and fearful were 
her curses; in vain her sisters tried to pacify her. 
" Bjara, dear Bjara ! how can you be so wicked ?" 
exclaimed Dall, while Linaa wept bitterly. Their 
entreaties were of no avail ; but now, as they gain the 
church porch, the waters of the lake begin to swell, 
overflow, and gradually disperse themselves over the 
plain, leaving the bottom dry, and the fishes, eels, carp, 
salmon, perch, and flounders, all stranded upon the 
heather. "It's a fish who has swallowed my ring," 
triumphantly exclaims Bjaia ; and quick and sharp as a 
policeman she passes in review the different members of 
the finny tribe. The eels wriggle ; flounders perform 
somersaults in the air — no guilt there ; pike open wide 
their jaws, — " Put your finger down if you like," say they ; 
" you'll catch something, not the ring" — ^when, reposing 
on a bed of reeds, puffing, blowing, she espies a bloated 
carp : " Here's the culprit," she exclaims— out with her 
bodkin, rips him up without mercy, and draws forth &om 



40 LINAA« Ckap. XXH 

his stoioach her lost treasure. Anon the waters agaia 
become troubled, and recede quickly, fish and all, to 
the basin of the lake. Somehow or other, though, tibe 
lake never recovered Bjara's malediction; gradualh 
it thickened, dried up, and the Bjanip S0 in comse 
of time became a Bju-up Mose. See how the caiai 
recoiled upon Bjara's church. The foundation socm 
gave way, the effect, some say, of the inundation ; it ia 
now a heap of ruins, while Dallerup and Linaa both standi 
picturesque objects, though perhaps a little chuichward- 
enized. We are at MoUerup : let us observe the stoifa 
— one, two, three, four nests, each with young ones ready 
to fly — not quite courage yet ; and here arrives the male 
— what has he brought them home for break&st in hii 
mouth? amarshfrog ! More nests stQl in Laasby : happj 
village ! rather too productive perhaps, for the stoib 
bring " triplets" to the Danish peasants, as common ai 
occurrence as twins in England. In our own tongue ire 
have no term like " trillinge ;" we borrow triplets from 
the dice-box — a very bad throw in either case ; but the 
storks mean to be kind, though the present be un- 
welcome. Mind how you make game of the young 
ones; they never forget it — are very tenacious about 
their long lanky legs. As there is nothing to look at 
until we come to Skovby, I may as well tell what befell 
the Stubbe family—" gammel adelige familie uddodt," 
— ^all because they laughed at the young storks' legs. 

You have all heard of Cadet Boussel, whose fortunes 
hung on his possessing three of everything — 

" Cadet Boussel a trois habits, 
Deux jaunes, et Vautre en papier gris," — 

the last not a solid article perhaps, but it rhymes 



Chap. ^XXL FATE OF THE STUBBES. 41 

very nicely. WeD, the fortunes of the noble honse of 
Stubbe depended upon the mystic number seven: — 
7 churches, 7 mills, 7 islands, 7 lakes, 7 forests, 
77 ploughs, 777 windows in their manor; cows, pigs, 
horses, all in proportion ; and 7 children, or 77 if they 
could get them, — so much the better, but 7 they must 
have. This last, as he proved to be, of the Stubbes, 
was a bad small boy, always making game of the 
young storks as they sat in their mother's nest on the 
house-top. " Stork, long-legged stork," he sang : I'm 
sure I forget what besides, but something very rude, at 
which they were highly affironted. " All very fine now, 
Mr. Stubbe; wait a little, and our turn will come; 
who 'U laugh then ? " muttered the old mother. 

The young squire grew up and was sent to Aal- 
borg CoUege, where he received a first-rate educa- 
tion : learnt Italian and dancing, — and very useful he 
must have found the former accomplishment, living on 
his estates in Jutland, among the moors and forests ; he 
spoke it however with a first-rate (Aalborg) accent. 
Young Stubbe grows apace, and somehow does not 
tame down. He is thirty now, and should think of 
settling : forty finds him an old bachelor, and fifty stilL 
" Marry before it is too late and I close my eyes," ex- 
claims his venerable mother ; so marry he did — a neigh- 
bour's daughter. " Plenty of time, mother," he laugh- 
ingly exclaimed ; " you know we Stubbes always throw 
doublets; I shall have my seven children before five 
years are over." There is great joy at Stubbesholm, an 
heir expected daily. Young Stubbe rubs his hands — 
" Triplets, you 11 see; mother, like the old lady on her 
epitaphium in the church-aisle — our grandam." "Hah, 
hah !" laughed the old stork from the top of the chimney^ 



42 LINAA. Chap. XXXI. 

where she was listening; ^'we shall see when the time 
comes." The time did come^ and a bad time too— dead 
twins — ^nearly costing the young mother's life; and 
months and years rolled on — more dead children, and 
more still, and Stubbe borne down with age and sorrow. 
Then says the old stork, "Vengeance is not onrs; we 
must pardon his offences for his young wife's sake^" 
Next time a living baby comes, fresh and blue-eyed; 
and then come twins, and then a fourth, and twins 
again. Stubbe rubs his hands: six children living; 
one more and he is saved; and so he would have 
been had he reckoned with the storks alone ; but grim 
Death steps in — a fit of apoplexy after the christening 
dinner of the last-born child: he is carried to the 
church vaults, father of six children. The fortunes <rf 
the Stubbes now ended : like others of ancient line- 
age, they passed away — one lake " Stubbe S0 " * marked 
on the map alone recalls their memory. 

At Skovby pause one moment Turn to the right 
and gaze towards Storring; there you will discern 
two mounds of earth, not far removed one from the 
other — Dronningh0i and Steileh0i they are called 
Here, on the first-named, stood Queen Agnes of Bran- 
denburg, widowed queen of Erik Glipping, who was 
slain by the Grand Marshal Stig t and other confederate 

* Stubbe 80 Ib in the Mols district. 

t Marsk (Marshal) Stig Andersen Hvide mas of the same fiEunil j ai 
Absalon and Duke Porse; like the latter, he made a grand jdu- 
riage. Ck)nceming the intimacy of King Erik and this lady there "wat 
great scandal, and it was to revenge the insult offered to his hononr thai 
the marshal plotted, and later executed, the murder of his sovereaga. 
Marsk Stig was renowned all over the North for his splendour. In $m 
old Swedish lay it runs* *' Stig, he proceeds to the marble halls : then 
he inyites the king to his home so joyfully ; he invites the king and 
aU his men, the queen with her damsels fair. When they oame fe9 



Chap. XXXI. FRIISfiXBOBG. 43 

nobles, near the village of Finderup, as I shall relate 
when we arriye there. Here she stood to superintend 
in person the execution of his traitor page, Bane 
Jonsen, who betrayed his lord and master into the 
assassins' hands. Bane suffered death upon the wheel, 
and Agnes feasted her eyes with the sight of his dying 
agony. 

Marsk Stig with his brother nobles took refuge in 
the little island of Hjelm, where after the manner of the 
day he turned pirate ; as the outlawed Earl of Hunt- 
ingdon he took to the greenwood-tree, and soon became 
the terror of the neighbourhood. The ruins of his castle 
still exist. 

FRn^ENBORG. 

We leave the road and make for Friisenborg, 
ch&teau of Count Friis. We stop for one minute at 
the village church of Hammel, to look at an early 
carving of St Hubert over an ancient round-arch door, 
and admire there an admirably preserved grave-stone 
of exquisite execution, fresh as from the sculptor^s 
hand, of Valdemar Parsberg and his wife Ide Lykke 
— ^noble and high-bom, date 1589. The Farsbergs 
have passed away; they were once possessors of Friisen- 
borg, but resisted the establishment of absolute mo- 
narchy by Christian V., and together with all the old 
Jutland nobility from that period disappeared from the 
state of affairs : many emigrated to St^eden. 

We enter Friisenborg through a Gothic gateway 



Ghike Stig*8 gate, there plays a hind, there dances a hart, so joyfdUy ; 
and when they came to Stig's conrt the fences were of steel and iron 
WTOtkght, the floor was made of marble stone, and the walls were inlaid 
with white iyoiy." 



44 FRnSENBORG. Chap. JSSL 

emblazoned with the family anns, drive to the oomt 
entrance, where the moat is large and surronnded hj 
horse-chesnnts of splendid growth, send np our cards» 
and demand permission to yisit the gardens. The 
old chateau is quaint, flanked with antiquated towen^ 
whitewashed too, all except its stone foundations; the 
whitewash contrasts queerly with the marble bust of 
its long-wigged founder Count Mogens Friis, black as 
time can make it, inserted in a niche above the doo^ 
way, with an inscription saying how the GrefskaT was 
created in his fitvour by Christian V. in the year 
1671. In fiye minutes' time we are joined by Count 
Friis and his countess, who themselves do us the 
honours of the place, and ^ess us greatly to stop: 
we finish by remaining over dinner, leaving for Aarhuus 
towards the cool of the evening. 

Of the ch&teau I say little : its interior is grand and 
at the same time habitable — the Biddersaal, a magni- 
ficent apartment, hung with family portraits, works of 
art, many of historical interest : among them are po^ 
traits of Eleanor and Corfitz Ulfeld, and Christina an 
elder sister of the Eeventlow Queen — Countess Friis 
by marriage, pretty, and not such a fool as her sister. 
Count Friis Friisenborg,* Juel — ^Wind — ^Friis — ^is the 
richest nobleman in all Denmark. His father is still 
alive, an aged man, but inhabits Boiler, having by royal 
consent ceded the County to his son, the present oocu- 
pier of the place. In another year the chateau will 
almost cease to exist ; it is to undergo an entire restora- 
tion at the hands of an able architect, in the style of the 

* FriJiB of Friisenlxng is a distinet iamily from Fxub of Boiteby, d 
whom more later. 



Chap. XXXI. THE CHATEATT, 46 

country: how wise the Danes are to stick to it! when 
completed it will be one of the finest residences of its 
style in Europe. And Frederiksborg may bless its 
stars that the future Friisenborg is not situated in the 
island of Zealand. In the ornamental poultry yard there 
were several hens sitting on their eggs. The nest is that 
to be met with in all the peasants' houses — a truss of 
straw tightly bound towards the end, and opened fun- 
nel-shaped towards the top; the straw being neatly 
turned in at the opening and fastened down. They are 
placed between a wooden bar and the wall-side, and 
very clean and tidy they looked. The custom of " egg- 
hatching " — ^there is a finer term — ^in ovens appears to 
have been practised in Denmark in Christian lY.'s time. 
He writes word to the hen-woman — "When the chickens 
come out of the eggs which are in the ovens, let the 
girl have some swan and some turkey eggs." * 

We are now in the land of " beeves," large numbers of 
which are here fattened for exportation for the London 
market. Molesworth, in speaking of Jutland, says, — 
" This is the best country the King of Denmark has ; 
but neglected on account of its distance from Copeu' 
hagen. Quantities of beeves and oxen are exported 
to Holland annually, to fatten in the rich pastures of 
that coimtry." 

Towards sunset we took leave of our kind hosts, and 
after a three ^hours' drive are again installed in our old 
quarters of last year, in the hot> dusty, bad-smelling 
city of Aarhuus. 



* Dated, Frederiksborg, 26th June, 1630. 



46 KAL0. Chap. XXXa 



CHAPTEE XXXIL 

Siege of Kal0 — The lord of Mols— Danish Whittington — The 
Lady Hilda Trolle — Bound church of Thorsager — Ch&tean of 
Bosenholm — Origin of the Bosenkrantz name — Holger the 
Bavant— Erik's rebuke of Cromwell — Jutland clergy — Clauaholm 
— ^Meeting of King Frederic and Anne Beyentlow. 



KAL0—THORSAGER. 

JwM 2ith, — SoMETHiNa invariably occurs to prevent 
our starting early : horses were ordered at six, but a 
heavy downfall of rain — ^true outpouring of the heavens 
— caused us to defer our departure until seven. The 
sun then made his appearance, and, the dust laid, nature 
seemed quite refreshed and glistening. We cut the 
high road, as we always do when possible, make out 
a menu of the places we desire to visit, submit it to 
the postmaster, who writes out a ticket, all charges 
included, no extra pourboires or pikes, money paid 
down, ' A stated time — ^rather a long one — given within 
which the postilion is compelled to perform the journey, 
or none at all, when you wish to loiter on the road, 
as to-day for instance. Posting in Denmark, two-horse 
carriage and all expenses included, amounts to nine 
pence per English mile. 

Our road runs along the bank of the fiorde, a charm- 
ing drive ; as we approach the further end the ancient 
casile of Kal0 — ^where in early days W6W founded a 
cloister by some English monks — stands picturesquely 
planted. You may reach it on foot when the water is low. 



Chap. XXXH. THE LORD OF MOLS. 47 

Afterwards it was the prison of Gustaras Yasa, from 
whence he escaped to Lubek when on parole. Later 
Kal0 W6W given to Ulrik Frederic Gyldenl0ve by 
Christian V. The generosity of the kings towards their 
natural children gave rise to a saying — "Bastards 
have better luck than children bom in wedlock;" in 
the case of the Gyldenl0ves, it may be added, they 
deserved " better luck." 

These are the most extensive ruins in Denmark — 
not saying much to be sure; but an old tower still 
stands, and they look picturesque on their green island.* 

Not tai from Eal0 lies the Mols district, the Jutland 
Boeotia — not that its inhabitants merit the reputation 
of dullness more than their neighbours, but they have 
got the name of it, and endless are the " Joe Millers " 
retailed at their expense. 

One day the lord of Mols came into Aarhuus, 
and there ate some salted herrings, so good he had 
never tasted the like before ; so he purchased a hun- 
dred, and on his return home put them into his pond, 
leaving them a year's grace to increase and multiply. 
When the year had gone by he determined to fish : he 
fished from sunrise to sunset, but caught not one her^ 
ring ; so he caused the pond to be dragged, and all he 
took in his nets was one large £Ett eeL 

"Here is the culprit," cried the lord ; "here is the 



* When Kal0 ms besieged by the Count of Hobtein, Gerhaid the 
tyrant, proYisionB were exhausted, and there remained in the castle 
but'one bow. But, to make believe they posseflsed more, the besieged 
three times a day pinched the sow to make her scream ; and as the 
enemy porposely sent a beggar-woman to the castle to report the state of 
the garrison, they every time gave her a larger piece of bread. Hence 
Count Gerhard believed them to have abmidanoe, and raised the siege 
in the seventh winter. 



48 KAL0, Chap, ^tth 

devourer of my herrings !'* So he summoned the whole 
village round, and they consulted on the death the frt 
eel should die. " Bum him alive," said one. " Collar 
him," said another, "and I'll eat him afterwaids.* 
** Hang him," advised a third. " No," interrupted as 
old man, "he'U slip through the rope. I myself ifas 
once nearly lost at sea, and I know from experience 
there is no death so cruel as drowning." 

So the device of the old man met with general 
applause, and he was invited to accompany his lord in 
a boat out at sea [.to drown the eel, who, when lie was 
cast into the water, wriggled, twirled, and twisted for 

joy. 

" See I" exclaimed the old man to the lord of Mols, 
" see how the eel writhes — ^what a hard death he is 
dying 1" 

A little higher up the coast lies the Castle- of Kat»- 
holm, concerning the foundation of which there hangs 
a tale much like that of our own Dick Whittington. A 
bad unjust man died, and left his property between his 
three sons ; but the youngest, who W6is an honest lad, 
when he had received his share, said to himself, " What 
has come with sin must go away with care :*' so he 
determined to put the money to the water ordeal, and 
cast it into the lake, knowing that what was unjustly 
got would siok and the rest float. He did so, and one 
farthing only floated ; with this farthing he purchased 
a cat, not &r from kittening time, and went by ship to 
a foreign land where rats and mice abounded and cats 
were imknown. There his kittens bore him little cats 
in their turn ; he sold them, made a large fortune, re- 
turned to Jutland, and there built a castle, which he 
called Katsholm. 




KUL'ND CJIUKCH, THOHSAUKU. 





ShXJTIONS AND (iROUND-I'LANS i)V CIIUKCH, TIIUlWAGKIL 



^1 



Chap. XXXII. LADY HILDE TROLLE. 49 

But Eatsholm was not always inhabited by honest 
people, for in the last century Lady Hilde TroUe, 
Baroness of H0gholin, dwelt there — a bad harsh wo- 
man, who had sold her body to the evil one for cer- 
tain sublunary advantages. When the appointed time 
arrived she was in bed with her daughter ; a terrible 
noise was heard on the staircase, and she well knew that 
her last hour was come. She bade her daughter rise 
and see who was there, in hopes the demon might make 
a mistake and carry her off instead, but the girl reso- 
lutely refused to do as she was bidden. Then the door 
flew open, and the lady was dragged out on the staircase. 
Terrible shrieks were heard, and all died away. The 
next morning her head was found on the stairs torn 
from her body, for the agreement had been only made 
for her body, and the demon kept to the letter of his 
bond; so it was buried in the old cofiBn of a former 
possessor of the castle, whom the Lady Hilde had turned 
out of his last abode to make use of his bones for her 
necromancies. 

And now we go on to Thorsager to visit its far-famed 
round church — the most perfect of the eight still exist- 
ing in Denmark.* It stands well on an elevation, 
. a picturesque object as you approach, towering like a 
castle above the village. Its construction is assigned to 
Bishop Peter, our old friend of Aarhuus and Silkeborg, 
though, had he trusted to chance and his silken cap in 
this case, and the wind as high as it is to-day, there is 
no knowing where the peasants might have had to run 
for their devotions. Some say that there existed in early 

♦ Two in Zealand— Storehedinge and Biemede; one in Funen— 
Home, at Faaborg ; one in Jutland — ^Thoraager ; and four in Bornholm 
— 0Bterlan, Nykers, 01s, and Xy. Storehedinge is octagonal. 

VOL. II. E 



50 THORSAGER. ChaK XXBL 

days a temple of Thor on this site — ^later CIiristianM 
as was often the case ; the round part cannot be of Bsbof 
Peter's day, he may have added the rounded apse, tte 
gabled tower, and the porch ; but architectnre in Judai^ 
was behind that of other countries. This church irf 
an earlier date than the twelfth century ; the oiigai 
building is circular, the round-yaulted roof supportft 
by massive columns; an interior circular tower leai 
to the belfry above; and from the strength of tfc 
supporting columns, it may be inferred a tower k 
more imposing than the small existing extinguish^ 
had formerly risen from their bases. Hanging to Af 
church walls were white and silver garlands, placed 
according to ancient usage to commemorate the dea^ 
of some youthftd maiden — a custom which existed is 
England formerly. Thirteen storks' nests on tfe 
village house-tops, all teeming with young, did w 
count from the churchyard of Thorsager. 

It is curious to witness, when travelling, the gnAd 
transition from the Pagan worship to that of tk 
Christian faith. In Brittany you see the cracife 
planted above the menhir, sanctifying the Pagas 
monument " Let the idea soak in," thought the 
priests, — ** the old man may still in his heart adheif 
to his early worship, but the child will bow to the cr» 
later," — and a fine jumble of Eomanism and PaganisH 
still exists there to the present day. Here Thcc 
formed a stumbling-block to proselytising monks in tbf 
tenth century. Before the porch and doorway of Th<r 
sager church lie two simple grave-stones of very earir 
date, inscribed with Eunic characters, hardly l^il^ 
even to those who understand them : on one is a singfe 
cross ; on the earlier stone a cross also, but a cross » 




Chap. XXXII. ROSENHOLM. 51 

strongly resembling the hammer of Thor, it might do 
as well for one as for the other. ^'How little differ- 
ence !" must have argued the monk ; 
** another point only and the hammer 
becomes a cross;" so the giant's 
chamber became abandoned, no more 
gold ornaments interred. The cross 
is engraved upon the stone slab— very 
heathen-looking cross — ^but there must 
be a beginning to all .things ; in the 
next generation Thor and his hammer 
are forgotten. Workmen were busy 
whitewashing the old brick edifice, 
lich-gate and all. What a wicked 
waste of quick-lime does take place in Denmark I It 
was refreshing, on arriving at Eosenholm, to feel our- 
selves again among respectable old red brick, relieved 
by Grothic mouldings, white stone copings, and armorial 
shields picked out in their proper colours. 

ROSENHOLM. 

We were received at the entrance by the brother 
of Baron Bosenkrantz, and soon joined by the rest 
of the family — ^residing at that time in the castle 
— who conducted us round the apartments, pointing 
out to us the most remarkable of the numerous col- 
■lection of family portraits, and those of historic in- 
terest, amounting to many hundreds in number. 

The ch&teau of Bosenholm was founded in the six- 
teenth centary by J0rgen Bosenkrantz — the earlier 
manor of the family, Hevringsholm, having been de- 
stroyed by Skipper Clemens and his band. Above the 

E 2 



62 ROSENHOLM. Chajp. XISL 

entrance he caused to be placed the following inacti^ 

tion, after the fashion of the day, — 

" We have not built a darable house, 
But we hope later to possess one." 

The portraits date from the sixteenth centoiy- 

beginning with the father and mother of the fouudei 

Passing over the various sovereigns, of whom we hx^ 

already had a sufficient dose elsewhere, among that 

of Jutland interest we have the portrait of fair EUa 

Marsviin, mother of Christina Munk, who determiixi 

as you will later hear, if she did marry an old mas, i 

shouldn't be for nothing. Here hangs Holger Bo8»- 

krantz, the savant, who founded at Boeenholm tm 

schools, one for young girls, another for youths, whose 

education he superintended himself. Next is £rik, tk 

youthftd ambassador at the court of CromweH, rmis 

Christian Y., in buff jerkin and falling collar ; on his fid 

presentation his ill-mannered host scoffed at his vonthfBl 

appearance: "A minister without a beard!" **It' 

replied Bosenkrantz, *' my sovereign had known it w 

a beard you required, he could have sent you a goii 

at any rate, my beard is of older date than your pw- 

teetorate." The Protector collapsed, and so the matter 

ended.* 

* Among the heroines of this &mily was Anna, wife of Holgc? 
Boeenloiantz, lord of BoUer. She had heen grande maitreeBe to thm 
successive Queens of Denmark, and was banished the conntzy If 
king Christian IL, who received in iU part the good advice ahe gaxt 
him. When Frederic I. ascended the throne she was recalled, ni 
arrived at Ringsted, with others of the nobility. The soldiera of & 
exiled monarch still committed great excesses in the country ; tbe 
lady Anna advised them to desist, as their king could never regain tte 
' affections of his subjects, which advice so irritated them, as wdlii 
certain citizens of Copenhagen, that they massacred her wi&out mer^ 
The lady Anna appears to have been too fond of giving adviet 
unasked. Two Miss Globs, at that time on a visit to her, neaiif 



Chap. XXXII. THE ROSENKRA>'TZ FAMILY. 53 

Another Bosenkrantz, Falle, was sent to England as 
ambassador in the time of James I., to arrange the pay- 
ment of 300,000 crowns, lent, at 6 per cent, interest, 
by King Christian to James, when King of Scotland. 
James was so pleased with Bosenkrantz that he gave 
him his portrait set ronnd with diamonds. 

Then we have Olaf, the apologist for the nobility 
and denier of the diyine right of kings — pronounced a 
traitor, exiled, his property confiscated; next Bosen- 
krantz, minister of Christian YII., in grand gala dress 
as Knight of the Elephant ; and endless others, all more 
or less distinguished in their way, many bearing round 
their necks massive gold chains to which are attached 
portraits of their sovereigns. Then the Jutland alii 
ances of the family: Eleanor Ulfeld; the Beventlow 
Queen — far superior to that of Frederiksborg ; — 
Krag, Krabbe, H0g, Friis, Sehested, de Beetz, Brahe, 
Gabel, Lange, Bille, Bielke, and other families, many 
of them since passed away — chronological portraits of 
850 years, interesting even to a stranger but slightly 
acquainted with the history of the Bosenkrantz family. 
We visited the gardens and the woods; never saw 
80 many snakes, harmless though they are. Game too 
abounds in the forest — ^foxes, hares, and birds of all 
kinds ; grand fox battues, you will be shocked to hear, 
every autumn. (Count Friis hunts his foxes with a small 
pack of beagles.) I wonder what my old fox-hunting 
friend would say to whom I once spoke of this custom : 
" Shoot a fox. Sir? zounds ! I'd sooner shoot a Dane ;" 
and he would have done so. 
After much kind pressing we remained to dinner ; 



underwent the same fieite; but their beauty excited the pity of the 
bystanders, who rescued them. 



54 ROSENHOLM. Chap. XXm 

dined in the old Biddersaal, where above the carined 
chimney— fireplace fitted with chenets of the period- 
hang J0rgen Bosenkrantz and Dorthe Lange his wifi^ 
1567, and other splendid full-length portraits. 

The name of Bosenkrantz, well known to all readeis 
of ' Hamlet,' is of great antiquity ; all you hear of that 
blood is good, illustrious, and well spoken of in the 
annals of the country ; and the Jutland peasants will 
point out, around the manor of Hevringsholm, which is 
said to have been in their possession from the sixtb 
century, numerous barrows, where the earlier memfaes 
of the family lie interred.* 

It was a mystery how, in Jutland, where the great 
names are of primaBTal simplicity, mostly signifying 
the names of animals — daa, hog; brock (badger), 
&c. — anything so romantic as Kosenkrantz — crown d 
roses — could have inserted itself. It appears that Sir 
Otto Nielsen of Hevringsholm accompanied Christian L 
to Bome on a pilgrimage, and the pope of the time 
presented the sovereign with a golden violet, Sir Otto 
with a crown of roses — strange present to a Northman; 
in consequence of which honour Sir Otto thencefortli 
adopted the patronymic of Bosenkrantz. 

There exists a tradition that Bosenholm will fall in 
its own ruins some Christmas-eve ; but as long as the 

* There is no doubt that this custom of burying under h0ia coo- 
tinned long after the introduction of the Befomied faith. In former 
days there existed a Bunic stone in the churchyard of Tommerby. near 
Sldve, unfortunately removed by Bir Iver Erabbe to Torstedhind. 
with the following inscription : — 

" My name is Vidric Viis, 
My father dwelt in Floieriis. 
I built this church for thee. 
But you must pray for me. 
My father lies in Aaleh0i, 
Myself I lie in VcgelhpL" 



Chap. XXXII. CHURCH OF HORKSLET. 55 

little turret-shaped clock, of the sixteenth century, en- 
graved with the arms of J0rgen and his wife Dorthe 
Liange, continues to wag its pendulum and strike the 
hours, no ill will befall Bosenholm, and, from the activity 
it evinces at present in the salon, little alarm need be 
excited for the future fate of the family whose destinies 
its good works hold witliin its power. 

People talk much of the ill will existing between the 
landlord and the peasant in the country ; but to-day I 
was struck, on admiring at dinner a massive silver 
ewer engraved with trailing vine-leaves, to find by the 
inscription it was an offering of affection and gratitude 
from the peanuts of the adjoining village to Baron 
Bosenkrantz, on the celebration of his silver marriage : 
there was also a bread-basket of the same metal pre- 
sented by the servants and retainers of the family. 
After dinner we drove down to visit the village church 
of Homsletj a very St. Denis of the family, dating from 
the fifteenth century : here we have them all again — 
Erik, governor of the castle of Beigen, who received 
Bothwell on his arrival ; Holger and his wife ; Erik, no 
longer to be snubbed, but Erik, portly "Legatus ad 
Anglos," in company with three ladies, his wives, all 
dressed in white satin — as though they had inherited 
each other's gowns. Then there is a library in the 
church for the use of the population — the gift of Holger 
the savant ; and lastly a chained book bound in copper, 
with a list of the monuments, inscriptions, and epi- 
taphia, a legacy to* the church from Erik's widow; 
and a deal else about the chronicles of the family.* 

♦ In the collection of engravings by Schatten is the frontispiece to 
the funeral sermon, representing the epitaphium of Erik Itoacnkmntz, 
iu which an angel is pictured as descending frum heaven and placing a 
crown of loses upon Lid brow. 



56 ROSENHOLM. CBAP.SXm 

In the Eosenholm archives was preserved the priTate 
collection of royal autographs extant from the time of 
Christian III. downwards ; the letters of Erik dmii? 
his embassy to England, as well as the correspondence 
with Ulfeld, Christina Munk, Tycho Brahe, &c. They 
were unfortunately removed, after the death of tk 
minister Eosenkrantz, to Norway, and consumed in tie 
conflagration of Frederikshall, 1826. J0rgen Boeen- 
krantz, founder of Eosenholm, was in the household 
of Queen Dorothea, and employed on all occasions bj 
Frederic II. He was sent envoy to the Emperor, Duke d 
Saxony, and other potentates. In his journal, 7th October, 
1564, we find: "Travelled from Leipsic to Vienna, to 
have audience of the Emperor Maximilian, who re- 
ceived me in his own chamber ; and there was no on* 
else — we were alone. But Jiis council and all te 
servants were in the next room, and could hear ow 
converse ; and he gave answers nobly and well." 

We drive through the extensive forest where in 1848 
the German army encamped itseK : they luckily ^t 
vanced no fiirther north, but were speedily expeDrf 
from the country. The sun was sinking behind the hi" 
— half-past nine — as we drove through the village : sud- 
denly a bell began to toll. " What is that ?" we inquired 
The sunset bell always rings as the sun goes down- 
the ancient curfew of England, as it still exists in oW 
cathedral towns. Do not imagine we leave to-nigk^ 
for Eanders, our kind hosts will not hear of it; » 
here am I, sitting in an old * tapestried chamber, 
writing my journal. My windows look on the moat 
There are no ghosts, and my tapestries are pleasant 
to gaze upon — a hunting scene and a picnic ; a boy peg^ 
plays the cithern, while couples dcuace under the green- 



Chap. XXXII. BULSKOVGAARD. 57 

wood tree. Ko fear of ghosts among such light-hearted 
beings. The stove too — snch an antique stove — with 
bas-relief and cipher of Frederic IV. ; and there is the 
king too, with a lady on each side — his two queens per- 
haps — ^no, they are Justice and Plenty ; the king on 
horseback ; hand issuing from the clouds places a crown 
upon his head, " proving thereby the Divine Eight of 
Danish kings." Queer to find this in the house of a 
Bosenkrantz ! a family who suffered from its opposition 
to absolutism, but such was the Jesuitism of the day : as 
The Portuguese missionaries caused sacred subjects to be 
painted on china, for the conversion of the Chinese — 
very rare these pieces are, the Emperor ordered them 
all to be broken up — so the absolute Government of 
Frederic IV. caused the Divine Right to be propa- 
gated on the stoves. 

Friday, 2bth. — After breakfast we drove overtoBuls- 
kovgaard, a residence belonging to a brother of the 
possessor of Eosenholm, near the fiorde, overlooking the 
island of Kal0 and its ruined castle ; dined ; and at five 
o'clock took leave of our hospitable friends. The old 
Danish proverb of " De Reisende have mange Herberge, 
og faa Venner" — " Travellers find many inns, but few 
friends *' — is not here realized ; on the contrary, the 
Jutlanders seem "At holde Kong Artus hof " — keep open 
house — ^a proverb the open table of that mythic sove- 
reign, at which all knights found a cover ready, gave rise 
to. At Bulskovgaard M. de Eosenkrantz showed me a 
piece of porcelain clay found on his estate, of which he 
forwards large quantities every year for the fabrication of 
porcelain at Copenhagen. Our way ran through a wide 
expansive country, windy and bleak, which, were it not 
for the regiment of turf-heaps ranged like huge black 



58 CLAUSHOLM. Chap. XIXIL 

'^pastilles a brMer" along the morass, would hiie 
reminded me of parts of Dorsetshire : every house is 
protected by a wood ; every village nestles in a delL 
The Jutland clergy are not badly paid on an sTe- 
rage : he of Homslet, the village church we last eTCfi- 
iug visited, enjoys an income of 1000 thalers, abcirt 
1201 English, house, &c. ; he of M0rke 3000, about 
360Z. : part is paid in money, part in tithes ; and i 
may be consolatory to their English brethren to heir 
the clergy have as much difficulty in getting tithes paU 
in Jutland as elsewhere. In Aalborg and its neig^ 
bomrhood their tithes depend upon the price of cohl 
Considering the cheapness of the land they live in, tber 
are not badly off; added to which, their wives and 
families are more simple in their habits than those of aa 
English clergyman ; no young man of good fieiniily eve 
choosing the church as his profession. In each vilkg^g 
there is a school and school-house, furnished partly by 
the Government, partly by the community, an apo- 
thecary and doctor: gymnastics too are the fashion 
poles and gibbets erected for the boys in every " hands- 
bye " we pass. We are quite pleased this evening te 
come across a pair of ruined village stocks, quite out of 
&shion here as in our own country. 

CLAUSHOLM. 

We are now on our way (if we are not first blown U 
shreds) to Clausholm, the birthplace as well as death- 
place of the Keventlow Queen. 

In early days this manor belonged to the Brok 
fitmily, great people once in these parts. In the year 
1404 one of this family, Jens Brok, was slain by 



Chap. XXXII. THE REVENTLOW QUEEN. 69 

another Jutland noble, by name Jens L0yenbalk. 
The Broks demand vengeance against the murderer 
from the great Queen Margaret^ who orders a reconci- 
liation next year to take place in her presence at 
Helsingborg. 

She condemns the murderer to give his victim a 
splendid funeral, which is to be attended by the members 
of both families, to found an eternal mass for his 
soul in St Clement's church of Aarhuus, and also to 
send at his own expense six pilgrims to six different 
holy places, Jerusalem and St lago in Spain among 
the number ; as well as nine more to the most remark- 
able shrines in the North : that done, the culprit was 
to be considered as whitewashed. 

Clausholm afterwards came ioto possession of the 
Grand Chancellor Beventlow, father of the queen, who 
here died in 1708. 

It was three years after the death of her father the 
kuig first met the &ir Anna at a royal masquerade at 
Koldinghuus.* With Frederic it was love at first 
sight ; he at once declared lus passion. Anna replied, 
she must " ask mamma," and ask mamma she did, and 
received a box on the ears for her comfort; for the 
aged countess was a woman of high and honourable prin- 
ciples. Six months later Frederic determined to visit 
Anna at her mother's house of Clausholm, where he 
was received with great politeness by the widow of the 
Grand Chancellor. The dinner concluded, he had the 
vulgarity to leave a roll of 1000 ducats in his napkin. 



• Frederic caused this meeting to be commemorated by a obarming 
painted ceiliug at Frederiksborg, representing the masquerade at 
Koldinghuus. 



60 CLAUSHOLM. Cbap.XCE 

which the high-spirited lady observing ordered in tk 
king's presence to be distributed to the poor of & 
hamlet The king, disgusted at his want of sucoeft 
returned to Skanderborg, where the sister of £air Abbl 
as well as her brother, informed him that she reftlb 
cared for him. 

The servants were gained, the waiting-maid of oomse. 
When the king drove up by night to Clausholm tk 
fair Anna came out &om a side-door to meet him, sd 
was carried off by the king to Skanderborg, where k 
contracted with her " a conscience marriage," cieatei 
her Princess of Slesvig, and for ten years lived with h* 
the husband of two wives, until the death of his ir» 
queen, when he espoused her a few days afterwarda 

Christian VI., after the death of his father, wrote hs 
a short letter with his own hand, stating how, aft^ » 
many years' disgraceful living with his father, her wibee 
quent marriage and coronation, she deserved the seTerai 
punishment. He accuses her of stealing jewels fro« 
Eosenborg, but allows her to retain Clausholm, grantii^ 
her a pension of 28,000 thalers, a capital of 100,0&i 
and a box of diamonds bequeathed her by his father. 

Her mother, after a lapse of seven years, consentei) 
again to see her. Then she retired, banished by faef 
stejmon, and died twelve years later from an attack c4 
small-pox, 7th January, 1743. I 

As we drive up, her arms still appear painted os 
the massive wooden doors of the castle gateway* 

She was a great fool this Anna Sophia, and piqued 
herself on the writing of bad verses, which she caused 
to be engraved on the gold tankards in her possessicHi 
On one vase of gold, found among her treasures, three 



Chap. XXXU. AN OLD-FASHIONED GARDEN. 61 

feet high, date 1717, with her name and^ipher under a 
royal crown, is engraved — 

** Ma main m'a spu gagner cet or par son adresse : 
Que ne doit e8p(^rer mon ooeur par aa tendresse ?*' 

On another — 

** It pleased the king to be tricked and lose this gold, the contents 
of which he will taste. But the loss is not great when the king 
loses gold to a person who is faithful for ever." 

In Eosenborg is preserved a gilt vase, ordered by 
Frederic to commemorate his marriage with Anna 
Sophia. He had much better have said nothing about 
it. 

It stands well embowered in woods, does Clausholm — 
terraces, allees, and slopes — without any exception the 
prettiest old place we have yet visited. Such a dream 
too of an old-fashioned garden — ^the pen of the poet 
Crabbe could alone describe it No flower blessed 
with a botanical name would dare to blow within 
its hedges. A guard should be set to watch the en- 
trance and ask, " Avez-vous fait vos preuves ?" " Have 
you been painted by Van Huysum ?" Boses and tulips, 
lilies and candytuft, sweet William and marjorum, gilli- 
flowers and traveller's-joy : when plucked they would 
only form " posies," and could be placed in nothing but 
a " bowpot." It would be pleasaut to dream of Claus- 
holm— a souvenir of the past. 



62 BANDEBS. Cbap. XXVT 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

Bniosgaard and the Braces — Bandera* ^commerce, her glor^ si 
beer — Dnel of the Oounts — Iklanora of the Scheel famflr— i 
midnight wandering in Jutland. 



BANDERS. 

We then made for Banders, passing by the manor a 
Bmusgaard, prononnoed Bmce, still a oommon jam 
in Jutland. With all due respect to the memoiy<^ 
Scotland's mighty Bruce, Bruce in the Danish tanpt 
signifies nothing more nor less than " muddle-headed* 
An hour and a half s drive brings us to the hnip 
of Banders, which crosses the clear water of tk 
Guden Aa. 

Saturday, 26th. — ^A most successful little toira b 
Banders, one of the pleasantest in Jutland, not sitoali^ 
on the fiorde, as Murray declares, but at seven mib 
distance. Guden Aa still teems with salmon ui 
trout ; excellent fish, preserved against nets, but ops 
to flies at large. They don't rise. It might be p^^ 
turesque, too, little Banders, were it not too genid 
and seized with the fecw of the "bumpkin fevtf' 
Such old timber houses, chessboard and striped ! sbA 
carvings ! Prout, how he would have loved them ! te 
striped houses are here deemed vulgar, village-like; a» 
they paint them stone colour, and hope that travelfcB 
may mistake them for plaster, if not stucco. On Gixfe 
Aa's banks bristles a little merchant fleet of shipping- 



tJMAP. XXXIII. COMMERCE. 63 

deals en masse from Norway and Sweden, for the Jut- 
land peasants are inveterate builders ; then, too, they 
export com and fish, their far-famed dry salmon fetching 
a higher price in the market than any other. Pork, 
too, they salt in Jutland, and Banders manufactures 
linen — quite a little commerce of their own ; on the 
other side is the barge laden reeAj for Silkeborg — an 
eight days' passage. 

To-day is market-day ; such a rich market ! Look 
at the butter : the meat of best quality, 3^. a Danish 
pound, two ounces more than the English ; second qua- 
lity, 3d Look at the potatoes and other yegetables ; 
above all, those splendid pots of yellow piccotees laden 
"with flowers. Observe, too, those old Jutland peasants, 
— ^their picturesque costumes, Hessian boots, velvet 
breeches, and old-cut coat of our grandfathers' days, 
covered with huge silver buttons. And the women 
bringing their rolls of home-made linen to market: 
how solid, how well-to-do they look ! a pleasure to see 
them! no finery, but good, wrought, stout, homespun 
dresses. The young men, sad to say, run after modem 
fashions, adopt the town-made trousers, and fight shy 
of good mud-preserving Hessians. Randers possesses 
one fine church, dedicated to St Morten, founded, 
as a fresco on the walls denotes, ''In memoriam," 
by good King John, who all devoutly hope "re- 
quiescat in pace." You walk over sepulchral stones, 
— ^knights, burghers, and ladies, plenty of them, none 
remarkable that you ever heard of. Not far from the 
church stands an hospital for one hundred and fifty aged 
men and wftnen, clothed and fed, as well as pensions of 
twenty-five dollars yearly paid to out-door pensioners, — 
a charitable foundation raised on the very spot where. 



64 KANDEBS. Chap. XXHQ. 

in the wars of the Counts, Niels Ebbesen slew in siii^ 
combat the rebel Count of Holstein ; for Randeis^ lib 
other towns, has her history, and has played her pait 
in her country's story. Her gloves were £Biinoos ii 
the eighteenth century ; French ladies much affed^d 
them and wore them at night : they were said te 
render a fair white hand whiter still ; and the proTeri^ 
ran — "As well known as Banders gloves." Bandeis 
too, in early days boasted a manufactory of equal h^ 
less enviable notoriety — her beer. In the year 15S 
no less than six murders committed within her waUi 
were attributed by the judge to the effects of this in- 
toxicating liquor. The German proverb ran — "He 
who comes &om Banders not intoxicated or beaten isi 
lucky man." 

But good, as we all know, sometimes comes out of e^ 
In the days of Skipper Clemens, when, after the batik 
of Svenstrup Heath, Bosenkrantz * and Banner, beaten Irf 
the peasant forces, retired on Banders, they were ib^ 
besieged without success ; for the " boers " found se 
much beer in the cellars outside the walls that they gaw 
themselves over to intoxication, and Banders proved to 
the rabble forces of the Jutland Jacquerie a seoooi 
Capua. 

We visited the public gardens, the airy barracks fa 
the young cavalry recruits, and their spacious stables; 
turned into the Town-hall to look at the modem pictiue 
of the duel between Niels Ebbesen and the Holsteii 
count, and the charming portrait of Lena Brol^ who 



* One of his brothers, Otto, feU in the fight— yon itey see hia toa^ 
at Erogsbiek church, raised by his sponse, a Gyldenstieme, and of« 
his coi&n Ues the sword he on that day so bravely wielded in tN 
m61^. 



CiiAP. XXXIII. GAMMEL*ESTRUP. 65 

left her money to the town to portion oS poor young 
maidens. We feel quite in England to-day^ what with 
the Braces and the Broks ; and here again was a por- 
trait of old John Caroe, pronounced Carew, ancient 
burgomaster of the city* Then on to-day's journey or 
near it we have the villages of Dyrby, Kaaby, and 
Beilby, and agaiQ at the table-d'h6te they served us 
** gooseberry fool/' 

GAMMEL-ESTRUP. 

The horses are annoimced; we start for Gammel- 
Estrup, the ancient Herregaard of the Counts of 
Scheel — "gaard" in Danish answers to our English 
word " court," of which some two or three are always 
added to the main building, oflSces, stables, &c. A 
very ugly road we drove over. Before arriving at our 
destination — far to the right lies Ammel Hede (heath), 
properly called Amlets Hede, which is mentioned in 
Saxo Grammaticus as one of the places so named 
after the Danish prince — we met with a fox wending 
his way leisurely along the roadside. D6n't imagine 
he cared for us — not a whit : as the wagen passed he 
turned round, sat up just like a pointer dog, or fox 
in the fable of Maitre Corbeau. He would have given 
me a paw had I requested him. The towers of 
Gammel-Estrap now appear in sight. We drive as 
usual through the gaard and gateway, cross two sepa- 
rate moats — bright sparkling running water here, con- 
nected with the Banders fiorde; swans in numbers, 
and cygnets too — quite right the heraldic bearings and 
supporters of the house of Scheel — and then descend in 
the inner court of the castle. Count Scheel was ab- 
sent, but his brother-in-law, Captain Sparling of the 

VOL. IL F 



66 GAMM£L*ESTRUP. Ouf.im 

Hussars^ had kindly given us a note to one of At 
family, who did the honours of the place. We nabi 
through the garden : in green "caisses " stood pffsU 
orange-trees in fuU blossom and perfame, nearly cad 
with the building, which dates from an early ps 
of the sixteenth century, commenced before, but ri 
finished in time for Skipper Clemens to bum it totk 
ground. Of red brick, flanked on the entrance ade^ 
two octagonal towers, crowned with open-work l»tfc 
ments, it reminded me of Hampton Court. 

When once in these Jutland courts, and ycfa bis 
visited the Biddersaal, you haye seen the best 'Beiti 
is a spacious oblong room, the conrentional form ; !»•? 
ceiling richly decorated in compartments once painte'* 
walls hung with ancient tapestry, representing ^ 
twelve chateaux, all, like this, ending in "Up' 
possessed by the family in the last century, vte 
the Count of Scheel of that ilk is said to !•» 
ridden from Grenaa to Viborg, a distance of sixty B? 
lish miles, without once quitting his own estates; ^ 
said Count Scheel, a fast young officer, loved cards 0' 
dice as well, and he gambled away estate after estifc 
The saal is entirely hung round with oval portn* 
many of them very charming, by Juel. We are ^ 
well " up " in these pictures, and rec(^nise at once 
old acquaintance. I was quite glad again to see tk 
Arveprinds, son of Juliana, and his fair wife of ^ 
destructive eyes, "fendus k Tamande," with jusl* 
Chinese " squeedge " at the comers ; they are her^ 
tary too, and are reproduced in a second generati* 
in the person of her handsome granddaughter, ^ 
Princess Augusta of Hesse. 

• " Up " Lb a corruption of thorp." 



Chip. XXXm. RESIDENCE OF THE SCHEELS. 67 

Here hangs^ mounted on liis white horse, the portrait 
of Connt J0rgen Scbeel, 1740, minister to the Court of 
the Empress of All the Bnssias in the last century, one 
of the handsomest men of his day ; at least the Em- 
press Catherine appears to have been of this opinion, 
for with her he was in great favour, so much so as 
to excite the jealousy of the favourite, Orloff, by 
whose artifices he is said to have died poisoned at 
St Petersburg. We then climbed the corkscrew 
tower to the rooms above. Long corridors hung with 
portraits : Christian lY . and other worthies, royal and of 
gentle blood, sadly in want of restoration. Such black 
wood, brass-bound chests stand ranged along the passages, 
full, may be, of the faded dresses of the originals of the 
pictures which cover the walls. Can't you imagine the 
velvet doublets and guipure-trimmed farthingales con- 
tained in such a tapestry-hung chamber ? Grim knights 
and most prim ladies frown down upon you from their 
frames. Old beds of needlework (prodigies of patience 
and bad perspective, topped by stumpy panaches of dis- 
coloured feathers), handiwork of some former countess 
and her ladies; old mirrors, old toilets, powder and 
pomade boxes, tables covered with old 'Dutch tiles, &c 
"Surely there must be a ghost-chamber here?" we 
inquired. There was once a ghost who haunted one of 
the largest rooms in the castle, fitted with two beds 
— ^no one will, however, sleep there, and it is now a 
lumber-room. 

We must positively stay to tea. Seven miles Danish 
on to Mariager before nightfall. We hesitate, but it is 
all prepared, so we accept A Jutlander would feel 
wretched if you quitted his house without breaking 
your &st Tired of inquiring how many cows people^ 

F 2 



C8 GAMMEL-ESTRUP. CaiP.m: 

keep, I ask this timey in my very best Diaii 
**How many horses?' Eighty-five is the rejiTjB 
the stable, for farm purposes as well. We are » 
in the horse country. There was a cattle-maAet ii 
Banders this morning — ^mereifully we were sparei* 
horse-market : last week there were more than a to 
sand brought in for sale ; good strong animals d^ 
are too, perhaps a little heavy in the shonlk 
Six thousand were lately sent to France, and ate 
came for three thousand more. The " Jagt," ico,^ 
excellent, deer, chevreuil, birds of all kinds in ate- 
dance, and fish into the bargain. We now take 
leave, and jump out for one minnte at Auning churi 
to visit the monument of Count J0rgen ScheeL B 
reclines, after the manner of his day, in long cvM 
wig and armour (Danes wore it later than o<te 
nations), bearing in his hand a baton, of some }as^ 
he had probably used in lifetime r beside him » 
angel sounds the last trump, while about his ha^ 
a sister seraph nnfolds a roll of marble, on whiA 
appear in bas-relief the features of the Russian Eo* 
press — queer idea, considering the scandal of tk 
times ! Having tipped the " Deacon," as they kflf 
call the grave-digger — an odd jumble of clerical titfe 
— we are tigain en route. Jutland fsumers in^ 
their own bricks, bake them at the house-side, f^ 
build them to the ready established timber as sood ^ 
worked and dry. We meet a chevreuil browsing * 
the heath, and then a manor-house, which the talb^^ 
postboy greatly admires, painted bright yellow. ^^ 
signposts, and bye-roads by the dozen. We miss 0^ 
way, and after a great deal of hallooing and inquiii*? 
arrive at the ferry's side, whose barge, for convent' 



J 



Ceap. XXXm. MIDNIGHT WANDERING. 69 

en^e sake, is kept midway out at sed, and has to be 
fetched by a cockle-shell. The postilion too» tells 
his horses to "stande" — not to staac — "stille," he 
constantly inquires the "vay," no longer "vei;** and 
begs to know if we start tomorrow in the "fore- 
noun/* or the "attemoun," — very bad Danish, "quite 
incomprehensible the Jutlanders," so folks told me 
in Copenhagen, but very like the English language. 
Well, we get over the ferry, and walk on some mile 
and a half on the straight road, and are hallooed back 
again. Who ever would have imagined that woody 
path to the right ? And now it is eleven o'clock and 
twilight, and all the world asleep. We drive over a bare 
waste ; ought to pass through the villages of Tweed and 
Kirby, so pronounced at any rate.* We stop, knock 
up the people in the village, tap at one casement ; no 
answer ; on till the tenth ; a voice replies ; by this time 
the nine others are awake — ^all heads out at once, half 
asleep, directing, or more probably misdirecting, our 
steps — such a chatter — ^might as well have disturbed a 
hen-house. " Turn to the right :" some eight different 
paths diverge like the points of a star. Here's a puzzle ; 
of course go wrong; are received at the entrance of 
a farm-yard by a furious watch-dog; turn again; 
we wander, benighted — no sign, no post through the 
land. See, there's the fiorde : we approach it — no such 
thing: a long line of mist rising along the valley from 
the Mose, but the road is good ; two miles we rattle along 
at a merry pace ; all wrong again — 'tis a herregaard. 
" Oh !" exclaims the postboy, " if I had only turned my 
stocking inside out we should never have lost the way." 



♦ Tvede and' Kaerby. 



70 GAMMEL-ESTRUP. Chap. XSSI 

A Jutland remedy. We are at last in the bon chemia: 
half-past one o'clock, no watchman to tell it Hioa^ 
nothing but sleepy ruminating c<}W8 and fiigkteM 
tethered sheep under our very ctfrriage-wheels. These 
most uncomfortable creatures, the larks, are already if 
and about, swelling their yoices in praise of early mcsB 
till ready to burst Bising with the lark in Jaikai 
must be never going to bed at all. The heavens — tii- 
light long since over — ^become rosy-tinted, betokenni; 
the sun's early arrival. We now enter a forest— «1 
beech and heather — ^the fiorde in sight We drive aloK 
the heights above : how calm, how beautiful ! A souS 
capped snow-white tower — 'tis Manager — n^tliiif 
among the trees; below lies the little village. We 
rattle down the hill-side, knock up the Gjfestgirer ani 
his myrmidons : by five o'clock (sun long ago up aal 
about) we are in bed and asleep. N.B. Never go wm- 
dering after nightfall among unknown cross-roads k 
Jutland. 



3IIAP. XXXIY. MABIAGER. 71 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

The Tillage of Manager— Story of Sir Hem and Sir Sem— -Poor 
Kary*8 well — A black stork — A Jntlaiid plain — Sea of barrows — 
Wicked Baroness of Lindenborg. 



MARIAQEB. 

Sunday f 26th. — When I rose fix)m my bed this morn- 
ing and gazed from the attic window on the scene 
belowy it seemed, had we searched all Denmark over, 
we could not have selected a calmer, quieter spot to 
pass our Sunday than the small village of Mariager. 
Our inn is of the humblest description : whitewashed 
walls, but cleanest of beds ; a better breakfast, tea and 
all, could not have been served us at the Clarendon, 
on prettier porcelain or finer linen. The landlord 
gathers us his finest roses to decorate our table, set out 
in the village ball-room, an indispensable necessary in 
these dance-loving lands. 

How pretty, too, is the cloister church of Mariager 
rising &om among the trees, distinguished from her 
village sisters by her high-arched lancet windows and 
stately gable ; she reminds me of some fair lady, who, 
Uke La Yalliere, has retired secluded from the world, 
to seek consolation and that peace which this world 
affordeth not, in solitude, meditation, and prayer. She 
is still grande dame, even in her adversity. The people, 
too, respect her, poverty-stricken though she be ; they 
have planted and trailed a natural archway of limes, 



72 MARIAGER. Oup.XXS?. 

under which you approach her cemetery. The Tilkp 
runs down to the waterside, and possesses there ai« 
harbour all of its own, where two or three Norwepa 
vessels unload their planks upon the jetty. Nolfc 
removed is the small bathing establishment, and 0<« 
the little custom-house floats the Danish flag. 

Very quiet and composed is the village of Manap 
on this Sabbath mom : a few peasants in their SmAj- 
best, patterns of rustic neatness, are now on their w 
to churcL A stuhlwagen drives by laden with six J* 
landers, sober old-fashioned folks; beside the dri^ 
sits a musician, with distended cheeks, playing ot^ 
vigorously on the flageolet A wedding or sometof 
must be going on : we go and see, and meet a wftsi 
christening, a small baby, well wrapped and nigh snfe 
cated in a coloured blanket As we enter the char* 
yard we meet the stiff-ruffed parson, who calls fe 
"deacon" to accompany us.. Deacon, an Old Hd" 
tality, knows all the tombstones by heart, and is anxio* 
to display his knowledge. Well-worn knight and eok- 
siastic, whose inscriptions will soon be trodden away, •'^ 
become things of the past, like the families in wta^ 
houses they were erected — ^most of them slain at ^ 
battle of Aalborghuus* — ^lie here interred. 

Very English do they sound to our astonished eaff' 
the Hogs, Broks, Lockes, Lawson, Galt^ and Ben**' 
the list closing with good Bishop Crump (crooMt 
last Eoman Catholic prelate of Aalborg, who, ^ 
Beformation once declared, ousted from his dkc^ 
(stift), retired to Mariager or its whereabouts, and fe 
buried among his relatives, not far removed ^ 

• 1534. 



Chap. XXXI7. CONVENT CHURCH. 73 

Sir Otto Crump and his noble and high-born lady 
Dame Anna Locke. While deciphering his epitaph- 
ium on the carved stone, thinking how calm and 
quiet must have been his end, removed far from 
this world's strife in placid Manager, Old Mortality 
opens wide a gate, and there before my eyes lay ex-* 
tended the worthy Bishop, all dust and bones past cor- 
ruption. By his side lay the bodies of two cloistered 
nuns^I trust no fieicetious inuendo of the early Be- 
formers — and in the same sepulchral chamber lie 
bundled together old crucifixes, figures of saints, and 
objects of papistic time£f, placed aside until again 
wanted. 

This convent church, whitewashed and slated, rising 
from her leafy frame, would have inspired the muse of 
some poet of the last century — Gray, Goldsmith, or 
the like. But here am I gossiping about Manager, 
and quite forgetting her early history. "Early history!" 
you reply ; "no doubt about that; some establishment of 
fat monks or idle nuns, aU in honour of the Virgin — 
trust them to choose a good situation ! plenty of fish, 
plenty of game in the forest hard by : they knew well 
what they were about, forsooth !" 

But Mary tlie Virgin had nought to do with this 
foundation. Mary, a virgin, and a luckless one too, 
endowed with two hearts (" La femme k deux coeurs," 
of which I have heard say, iB no novelty), — ^hers was a 
sad history. It was long, long ago there lived on the 
banks of the deep blue fiorde we now gaze upon a 
youthful damsel, before-mentioned Mary, the fairest, the 
richest in all North Jutland : she had suitors, as you 
may imagine, in plenty — all Jutland at her feet — but 



74 HARIAGER. Ohaf. XXST. 

distinguished among the train two alone found iaTonr k 
her eyes. Sir Hem and Sir Sem — Sir Hem, the Uiv- 
eyed, the golden-haired, a Northman ** pur sang f Sr 
Sem, of mixed Oriental blood, black-eyed and <^ 
tinted ; his mother, a fair Eastern maiden, had foDoM 
some stout Varangian, — ^her dowry a string of Ciie 
coins twined among her tresses, — ^from the marble hiik 
of imperial Byzantium. i 

Fair-haired Sir Hem, black-eyed Sir Sem — what coJ 
poor Mary do ? "1 cannot marry both," she piteoisiT 
exclaimed; and she felt her heart always wsmd 
towards the present one; and that, you know, as^ 
confidentially owned to a female friend, wotdd neTer k 
after marriage. Hers was the old story of 

" How happy could I be with either, 
Were the other dear charmer away!** 

** I can no longer stand this shilly-shally 1" exdaiv 
Sir Hem. 

" No more can I," replied Sir Sem. 

" We must fight it out, and he who f alb — " 

** Hold, brother ! he who dies ; there must be ta 
one survivor. We will fight naked to our waista" 

"Agreed." 

The rivals now £bi,11 to— clash, clash, go the smsis 
(long swords, heavy as the iron bar of a gaol gate)- 
clash, clash, dash again ; the golden tresses of Sir H^ 
are now dyed scarlet red ; the dear olive skin of ik 
brave Sir Sem blanched pale with loss of blood. CliA, 
clash, they go — now fainter, cla-ash, clara-ash, till thg 
sound no longer, and each knight sinks dying, side br 
side, in a pool of clotted gore. 



Chap. XXXIV. POOR MAKY AND HER LOVERS. 75 

" Brother/' murmured Sr Hem, "your hand! we 
fought for love, not hate." A dight, feeble pressure 
rei{K)nd8, a whispering faint " Good-night !" 

" Stop them, stop them !'* exclaimed the frantic Mary, 
when the news of the combat reached her. "Stop, 
oh, stop ! I'll marry you both,** — ^and she rushes to the 
spot Too late — she casts herself on both the bodies 
at once, and gives way to her agony of grief. Survive 
Ihem she will not — she who had caused their death ; 
so she makes her wiU, bequeaths all her possessions 
to the Church to found a cloister, and builds two 
churches over the remains of her lover victims, Sir 
Hem and Sir Sem — ^those two white village churches. 
Hem and Sem, you pass on your road, as we did, when 
we wandered about the wide plains in our midnight 
journey to Mariager. 

"Now," exclaims Mary, "I have done with life!" 
and she casts herself headlong into the deep well ad- 
joining the ancient monastery, of which one ivied and 
extinguisher-capped tower remains. 

" But our beloved foundress," asks a brother of the 
prior who directs the building of the rising convent, 
where shall we bury her ?" 

"Hush, hush!" responds the prior, "not in consecrated 
ground, the holy Mother Church forbids us ; but bide 
a time, leave her where she is, the story will blow over ; 
we can't canonize a suicide, but we will work miracles 
at her cell." And gradually a rumour goes forth, 
how a love-sick maiden, deserted by her lover, at the 
last stage of consumption had recovered her youth, 
freshness, and peace of mind by quaffing the water 
from poor Mary's well. The spring became famous, 
though I doubt it did much good — ^it only made men 



76 HADSUKD. Chip.IXXI?. 

more heartless — " Stuff and nonsense !" they replW <f 
the prayers of the helpless victims, "Go" {nol« 

men say now, to the , but ) " to Maria Kilde,fli 

you'll soon be all right again.'* 

Our landlord proposed a visit to Hor-h0i, sititfri 
behind the Munksholm wood, the burial-place of Ka 
Hor, a sovereign unmentioned even in the most Ijil 
of Danish chronicles. 

We did not go, having passed it the morning* 
our arrival ; from its smnmit you can count on a cks 
day upwards of fifty church-towers, proving the flato* 
of the adjacent country. 

HADSUND. ■ 

June 27^A.— The sun is high ia the heavens; * 
horses are ordered at four ; we still linger, iinwil6? 
to quit so fair a scene, but an eight hours' journeTfe 
before us to Aalborg, and we have had a dose of n^ 
travelling and losing ourselves. We have the ^ 
either to go by Hobr0 and the royal chauss^ ® ^ 
Aalborg, or by the more intricate road to '^9^^ 
and then, crossing the ferry, by Lindenborg on to<^ 
destination. Uncured of our hatred of the elec8* 
telegraph, we choose the latter, and drive along '^ 
water's edge: the green beech cap the.overhan?'? 
banks; on the opposite side appear fine counfay^ 
deuces, paradises in the summer season, backed by "* 
never-wanting forest. And now what is that? W^^j 
the carriage : a stork, a black stork, fishing ^ ^ 
waters — ^black as a raven — the first we have seen; ^| 
dwelling-house, no doubt, in the forest hard by* ^ 
black storks build their nests in trees, avoiding^ 



Chap. XXXIY. " STONEHENGE." 77 

Bociety of human kind.* He now flies away back with 
the produce of his chase to his mate and young 
ones, and we continue our journey. As we pass near a 
country house the scarlet postilion points to behind the 
road, " Stonehenge ;" and there as sure as fate stands a 
lofty dobnen — Stonehenges^ as the peasants call them 
in tiiese parts. He talks to his horses, too : one he 
terms " ole ors," the companion " mare," — ^hoppe is the 
correct word — just like a British ostler. 

We were charged for four glasses of " toddie " in our 
moderate Mariager bill — brandy and water taken on 
our first arrival half perished with dew (dug), pro- 
nounced like our own by the postilion, after our nocturnal 
wanderings among the moses. Such a night as he'd 
passed — " Sicken a one he'd never* kenned." All of 
which makes me half imagine myself somewhere ia 
the provinces of old England. 

We reach Hadsund ferry; boats of course on op- 
posite side, and no man visible. Tu whu, tu whul 
sounds the postilion, like some stranger at the castle- 
warden's gate. No answer from the ferry-house,' a 
building, had it only an extra story added to it, as big 
as a mansion in Belgrave-square. At last two lazy men 
appear : we sit like Patience and admire the opposite 
chateau of Dalsgaard, embedded among the trees, and 
pluck nosegays of white orchises. The boat arrives at 
last, and we get over to the other side) half an hour's 
time after quitting the ferry-house we bid adieu to all 
beauty, and enter on one of those wide-extending myste- 



* It is a curioi^s fact that, although these birds breed eyeiy year, no 
one can teU what becomes of the young ones ; the number of nests 
nerer increases. 



78 HADSUND, Chap. XSSir. 

rioiis plains typical of North Jutland. Picture to yonneK 
a raging sea» all wave and battle, ferment and loeoDMh 
tion, suddenly stilled by the magic wand of a magidiiii, to 
stay as it now is, never to move again, but become, afia 
a time, like stagnant water, covered with duckweed, giea 
later black from the decomposition of vegetable m^te 
Such is the country we this evening drove thnia^ 
wearisome to a degree, still not uninteresting : paldiei 
of com, patches of heath, black soil, white saad, i 
curious irregular colouring not often witoessed ia 
nature. Even the endless tumuli give a certam vaiielT 
to the scene, standing detached, as they alwajB <^ 
against the horizon: some black, others green; oat 
has been just flayed, for its turfs sake, or may he 
for its heather, manufactured by the women iito 
brooms and carried to Aalborg market. Many a*i 
rich are the ornaments of silver and gold whidi Be 
interred within these ancient graves ; each year bings 
them forth, and fresh objects grace the cabinets of tfe 
Museum of Ck)penhagen. A gentleman at AaTbo; 
informed me that last year, on the property of h* 
brother at Buderupholm, three Danish miles south d 
Aalborg, there lay in the midst of the field a hip 
stdhe always in the way of the ploughshare, so tiie pn>* 
prietor gave orders to the labourers to dig a hole by ils 
side and bury it. On moving the mass of granite ther 
discovered beneath three gold armlets of exquisite woit 
manship, for each of which they received from the 
committee at Copenhagen the full value in solid cuk 
350 dollars, nearly 40Z. of our English money. 

On the same estate the peasants, while engaged ii 
cutting turf (what a ^blessing these moses prove to the , 



OSXP. XXXIV. SEA OF BARROWS. 79 

liiimbler classes!*) — ^the peasants discovered the body 
of a female pegged down in the bog, a spurious Queen 
GnnhiM. 

As we drove along I fell into a reverie, and tried to 
picture to myself the map of Jutland and the Danish 
isles, such as it might have been before the birth of 
Christy when these long valleys, now half under culti- 
vation, half mose, were still extensive lakes, sloppings 
of the great deluge, not yet dried up in time to pass 
away from the evaporation of the sun's rays and the 
labour of mankind. 

That the waters are retiring in these parts there can 
be no doubt ; the very names as well as the stranded 
appearance of the sites on which the villages are built 
attest the &ct — Trandersholm (island), Enghohn, and 
twenty others. 

The worthy mayor of Aalborg told me himself that, 
where he used to fish some eighteen years since in the 
little lake of Gravlev, the land has been long since 
under cultivation, and from no dndning process. The 
islands, too, of the Liimfiorde are gradually becoming 
connected with the land — Oxholm, and many others: 
while at the farm of Eevs the proprietor continued, 
until fifty years ago, to hold the privilege of ferrying 
over travellers in his boat to Gudenholm, where car- 
riages have passed over dry land for many centiuries. 
It is more easy to realise this transition in a summer 
twilight, when there is a sombre mysterious gloom as 
&r as the straining eye can gaze over this sea of 
hillocks. 

After a weary three hours' drive we arrive at Lin- 

* One thousand large torves here seU for 2». 6d. English — they find 
no bog-oak thongb, as in Ireland. 



80 HADSUND. Ghap. XXHV. 

denborg, an ancient cMteau (Grevskab) of Coonl 
Schimmelmann, picturesque, quaintly begabled, and 
hardly visible from the trees which grow round, «epi- 
rating it from the grass-green moat^ stagnant and mas; 
as an old French grenouilliere. 

"What a pity the evening is so far ad vanced !" is* 
exclaimed; but it was no pity, for in the 9A 
tones of twilight the old building looked more myate- 
rious, in the nudst, too, of such a wild country, eo- 
bowered in trees — alone — ^isolated. Somehow or othei 
at the moment its history had escaped my memotr, 
otherwise for gUded gold I would never have traversed 
the road we trod drowsily along after nightfall, for there 
are dark tales of Lindenborg well known to the pea- 
sants of the surrounding country. 

Eeesholm, as it was called until created into a county, 
has passed through many hands — ^strange it is be* 
these manors changed proprietors in Jutland ; none; 
I believe, save Bosenholm, descended from father to 
son for the lapse of three hundred and fifty years — hibs 
it became the possession by purchase of Claus Daa, a 
noble Jutlander, married to King Christian IV.'s grand- 
daughter, Sophia, Baroness of lindenov. Clans Daa 
came to an untimely death in the castle, no one knev 
how, " beside the red door," was buried and forgotta. 
Years rolled on, and the fair but very frail Sophia 
became attacked by that scourge of the female sex, a 
hideous cancer. Fearful were the torments she eo- 
dured, not only of body, but of mind. As a last resource, 
she caused her suffering frame to be transported in a 
litter by four horses over the jolting roads and ruts to 
Aalborg, even in these days, as we ourselves can at- 
test, a weary journey. To stifie her screams, she was 



Chap. XXXIT. BARONESS OF LFNTDENBORO. 81 

accompanied by a band of musicians ; at each paroxysm 
they burst forth into melody, adding to the torments of 
the sufferer. She reaches Aalborg, and submits to the 
surgeon's knife — cm operation of no avail. Grim Death 
is fast approaching : she sends for the Bishop, and on 
her death-bed makes a full and true confession of the 
murder of her husband. She wished for more liberty 
for the indulgence of her guilty passions. She died; 
but ott on a wintry night the passing traveller still hears 
the tramp of the Utter-bearers and horses, with the 
agonising shrieks of the suffering lady, surpassing in 
shrillness the trumpets and clarions, hired, like t^e 
gongs of an Indian suttee, to conceal them from the 
horror-stricken villagers. It is one o'clock — the very 
recollection of this story gives me the "creeps" — ^it is 
pleasant to see in the morning twilight the spire of 
Si Budolph, and to be lodged safe and sound away 
from all ghosts and goblins at the hotel Phoenix in the 
city of Aalborg, 



VOL. II. 



82 AALBORG. Chip. HP- 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

AalboTg or Eel GaBtle ^ ItB amies parlantes — Death of King Job- 
Jens Bang and the miser's daughter — The Agger Canal— Ski||« 
Clemens, leader of the Vendel hoers — Hog fiunily — Their higkiK 
ancient descent — Coat of J0rgen Bille — Great bog of Jutbd- 
B0rglum and Bishop Cramp— The lady of Aadal and the fiitei i 
bacon. 



AALBORG. 

Jum 28^A.— We are at Aalborg, Eel Castle— sii^ 
people those early Scandinavians, with their Floaii'ff 
XJastles and their eels ; no Tonquebec here — ^no Chit* 
Gaillard in this country — all plain speaking; v& 
here we are on the Liimfiorde, within two da? 
journey from Skagen, which people prophesied « 
should never reach. My first impression of Aalta? 
as we entered the town was favourable: old hoieei 
antique and respectable-looking; narrow streets;!* 
here and there a running Aa (I can't say river, »» 
won't insult the natives by calling it stream), tin* 
of which pass through the city — 0ster Aa, Vesteri* 
and Blegdams Aa by name^ — each separate stream ^ 
tributing as its share an eel to the heraldic bearii^ 
of the town — ^three red eels on a field or. The banb^' 
the Liimfiorde are here flat ; but an expanse of watff * 
always pleasing to the eye; it runs from here fi* 
Danish miles down to Hals.* 



♦ Where, in a.d. 965, Harald Graafeld, King of Norway, «• * 
Queen Gunbild, was assassinated by Gold Harald, later mnnifl^ 
himself by Hakon Jarl. 



CHAP. XXXV. ST. BUDOLPH'S CHURCH. 83 

Aalboi^ is not a town of sights, guide-book-speaking — 
no bounden duties ; a most blessed circumstance : still 
there is quite enough to interest and while away a day, 
pottering about without any fixed plan or stereotyped 
project The payement is not famous, but there are 
symptoms of progress ; three long streets have been 
lately repaved ; gas was introduced here as soon, if not 
before, Copenhagen ; and a liberal supply of water is 
forced by hydraulic pumps to the upper stories of every 
house in the place, from Bleg Kilde. There is no 
doubt that this valley originally formed part of the 
fiorde ; the city must have then been almost an island, the 
truth of which theory is carried out by the oyster-beds 
found embedded in the rocks near Bleg Kilde — ^beds of 
unopened oysters, growing, as oysters do in nature, 
doable, the round shell undermost — ^not separate, like 
the kitchen heaps of the Northern Museum, of which 
plenty have been discovered on the heights above the 
Liimfiorde. 

Leaving the hotel, we stroll down the street leading 
to St. Budolph's church: the doors are open; odd 
women occupied in cleaning it out, each armed with a 
goose's wing— ancient Scandinavian duster, used, I have 
no doubt, in the time of King Gonn. St. Budolph's is 
like all churches in these parts — carving, paint, and 
gold. 

We must visit that adjoining house * in the comer 
of the ancient Kloster court, gabled and ani^itt. Here, 
in the year 1513, Feb. 20th, expired King Hans (John), 
&ther of Christian II., Knight of the most honourable 

* One of the few which in this part of the town escaped the raging 
conflagration of 1660 or thereabouts, since which date no fire has 
attacked Aalborg ; hence her antiquated appearance. 

o 2 



84 AALBOBQ. Cbap.SF 

Order of the Garter, and a good friend to England ft 
allowed onr merchants an '' alderman" in each JhsA 
seaport town, to protect their commercial prini^ 
Fifty-eight years of age was King Hans or John:k 
rode one morning on hoiseback, strong and in hei^ 
from Bingkj0bing, escaping from a flood at Kibe: ^ 
passing a river he fell from his horse, broke his 1^ 
caught cold, and died in the very room we are iffl* 
about to visit, to admire the stone chimney-piece, soif 
remnant of his time. It is supported by two Jadaai 
warriors — ^most formidable individuals they must h^ 
been — sword in hand, somewhat like pictures of mi 
childhood's giants, in painted helm and corslet and ^ii 
moustaches, quite beautiful. A pious motto is inacaoid 
above — "Protectio Domini, fundamentum stabile." 

King John was not of a happy disposition ; aln?! 
seeing matters in a dark point of view. The year of is 
death he was sitting at a table with his friends in tk 
palace of Copenhagen, when the almanac for the tsii^ 
ing year, just arrived from Germany, was brought iii 
his presence; in this almanac it was declared tblA 
'^ this year would die a great potentate," which the kit 
immediately settled to be himself, and told his at 
and the courtiers his opinion ; then, as Duke ChiiM 
did not contradict him, he turned wroth, and shai^ 
remarked, "It might just as weU be you, for de^ 
spares neither youth nor age." The preaeaim/* 
however did not quit him; for when, after a m^ 
passage across the Belt from Kors0r, in which his red 
was in danger of being lost, he stood on the bridge il 
Nyborg, he apostrophised the water, saying, ** Farei^j 
Belt! you have treated me so ill that I shall n^ 
pass over you again." When the flood took pliiC6 ^ 



r- tm 



CSap. XXXV. DEATH OF KING JOHN. 85 

Bibe and he was compelled to quit the castle, he took 
refbge in the house of the oldest burgomaster of the 
dty, and there remained some days. One morning he 
stood before the door, watching the ebb and flow of the 
tide, and the ice floating in the western haven. Turning 
to his courtiers, he said, " Let honour be given — over 
all lords and over all kings to whom we pay honour 
and worship, over all potentates in the world— to Him 
who, without gun or shaft, or any warlike weapon, alone 
can hold us by His will in this city ; to Him alone must 
we yield ourselves . prisoners — in love, honour, and 
victory— eternally I" From the time of his accident he 
declared he should never recover ; and calling to him 
his son Christian, gave him much good counsel for his 
country's weal (to which the heir-apparent paid but 
little attention) ; and having received the Sacrament, 
^* from which he derived great consolation," he expressed 
no fear of death, but died calmly. His saying was, " I 
wish that my inferiors should not fear me, and that my 
superiors should not despise me." He was the first 
sovereign who assumed the title of " majesty " in place 
of " your high-bom grace." King John was betrothed 
to Princess Mary, daughter of Edward IV. of England, 
in 1476, but she died in Greenwich before the marriage 
took place. 

In the town-house, if you care to mount the staircase, 
you wiU find many royal portraits, mostly rubbish, from 
Christian L downwards : much to the credit of the cor- 
poration, they appear to have treated their pictures as 
we do our London houses, caused them to be repainted 
(three coats) every seven years; but you will see 
untouched among them our English Queen Louisa. 
She wears the very parure later seen on Queen Juliana. 



86 AALBORG. Chaf.XHT, 

Her portraits are more rarely met with in town-bai 
and public places than in the farmers' honaes, libi^ 
her memory is still cherished. 

And now we come to the pride of Aalborg — the Stm^ 
Apothek. In Denmark the apotheker answers tofc 
French "pharmacien ;" they hold there a much higfer 
position than they do in England. As the lives d 9 
many are intrusted to their care, they ore not seledei 
without a most searching examination. In former ^ 
travellers appear to have been lodged at the apoftbd. 
We find in Daniel Major's Travels, 1693, "At fte 
apothecary's I was treated with hare steak^ exoeD^ 
salmon trout, and good aqua vitse, and all at a cbef 
price." Again, in Holger Jacobeus' Journal, 1671 
'^ In Odense lodged at the apothecary's, and drank l&sm. 
brandy." The signs of all apotheks in Denmark sr 
swans or lions, except one I have seen named afte 
King Solomon ; this, of Aalborg, was built in the yes 
1623, and is the finest specimen of the Benaissao^t 
to be met with out of Zealand — such a queer cU 
toureUe too it has, tacked on to the doorway. At ifc 
above-mentioned date there lived in the city of Aalbcsf 
a wealthy wine-merchant, Jens Bang by name, one i 
the olden school, liberal to a faulty honourable in 1^ 
dealings with all men. Young too he was, and loW 
the daughter of old miser Enud Jensen, the eel-fiaitef 
— the fairest maid in the north of Jutland. A rich sefr 
in-law was much to old Enud's taste ; but it made te 
heart bleed to see his money fly so freely ; and wlwJ 
Jens Bang commenced to build the house we now gav 
upon, Knud swore with a bitter oath that, if he did m^ 
at once desist frt)m so extravagant an undertaking, h 
would end his days in the poorhouse. Jens laugbdL 



Chap. XXXV. JENS BAKG. 87 

and replied, " Well, if such is to be the case, it shall 
be in one of my own building." So he founded the 
" fattighuus '* for aged men and women' outside of the 
town, which bears his name. We are now standing on 
the new market, take the apothek en biais, and see, 
separated by the running stream called 08ter Aa, on 
the opposite side, the ancient residence of Bjiud the 
miser — an old striped house, with high-pitched roof 
and long open gallery in front, reminding you of Ches- 
ter's city: in this house died the wicked Baroness 
of Lindenborg; it is now a conditori; below the 
gallery is a cobbler's stall. Cannot you picture to 
yourself the fair Mette, Knud's "datter," fresh and 
piquante in her youth and beauty, in trim bourgeoise 
dress of the seventeenth century, leaning over the 
gallery, watching the progress of her future mansion ; 
the miser father, with long white beard and velvet cap 
on head, appearing in the background, stick in hand, 
chiding the damsel for loitering, and sending her back 
to her domestic duties, not, however, before she has 
caught sight of Jens Bang, nodded, smiled, and waved 
her handkerchief in token of recognition, thereby en- 
raging the miser doubly ? — a scene like an old Dutch 
picture — ^a Mieris, or a Gerard Dow, exquisitely finished* 
But you turn up your nose at such subjects not high art. 
Time rolled on; the miser died; Jens Bang es- 
poused his pretty daughter, and the prophecy of the 
old man was long since forgotten. Jens prospered ; he 
speculated, and purchased Saeby Gaard, a fine estate ; 
cJl went well until the occupation of Jutland by General 
Wrangel and the Swedes. Wrangel inhabited the cor- 
ner house lower down. You may visit his rooms — two 
splendid empanelled chambers of richly-wrought oak' 



88 AALBORG. Chap. Xnv. 

once adorned with pious saws, long since painted orss. 
but still discernible. Before quitting Aalboi^, Wrasgdl 
imposed so heavy a ransom on the town, the burghs 
could not raise iJie sum ; Jens Bang, open and ge^ 
reus as ever, came forward, purse in hand, willing tg 
advance the money on the simple word of his felbi- 
citizens. He did so ; was never repaid ; became i 
ruined man, and died, as the miser had prophesied, ai 
inmate of the poorhouse he himself had founded. Sod 
is the story of Jens Bang, which adds an interest to tk 
old house we all admire at Aalborg. 

Look at this quaint entrance a few doors lower don 
— above, the figure of a lady stands in a niche; its 
Christina Munk. The house belonged to her motlff. 
Ellen Marsviin, whose effigy, as well as that of JjuMf 
Munk, her father, if it be them, goards the doorvsT; 
date, 1616. Around the head of Christina hung a swam 
of bees — ^mason-bees — ^who from the memory of nua 
have built their nests in the wall behind her head- 
pleasant vicinity. If you care for an antique ftot 
circular, with the date 1166 plainly visible in tk 
sculptured granite, there is one of gigantic proportiois 
in the yard of Wrangel's dweUing-house — monstraoeos 
carving too upon it; cherubim with £etces as broad £ 
Wiltshire cheeses; and pigs, or some other animik 
with tails expanding at the points into fuU-blovm lilies. 

By the harbour — a new little harbour lately finiskel 
— stands the old palace, not the same probably ii 
which King Hans was bom, but its successor, t 
tumble-down affair, once moated, now filled up; tk 
inner court more like a country gaard than a palace, 
all stripes and '^cage-work;" and in this so-called 
palace did Guldberg and Juliana propose to incar- 



Chap. XXXV. THE AGGER CANAL. 89 

cerate Qaeen Caroline Matilda previous to her re- 
moval to Zell: the English Government would not 
allow it. Jutland has always been the refuge place 
of ladies under a cloud: Christina Munk, Beventlow 
Queen, the Bussian princesses, then Caroline Matilda, 
and, in later days, another illustrious lady too nearly 
allied to the present royal family to be mentioned. 

There is much shipping in the harbour, for Aalborg's 
commerce is great in grain, in eels no longer, nor yet in 
herrings, once her staple commodity. The sudden 
opening of the Agger Canal in 1824 into the Northern 
Ocean, after a lapse of centuries, overthrew this branch 
of trade. The herrings — like the English, at the con- 
clusion of the late war— desirous of seeing foreign parts, 
swam out into the open seas, and took so kindly to 
real salt water they never again returned to the 
brackish Liimfiorde and the nets of the Aalborg fisher- 
men« Whether this canal be an advantage to the 
commerce of Jutland is hard to say. On the charts is 
marked down eight feet of water, at present there is 
scarcely four ; and only a few days since some vessels 
returned which had been waiting since December last, 
unable to pass into the open ocean. 

In the construction of the new harbour the workmen 
came on a ship of early date, to judge by the timbers ; 
there they lie, black as coal before you, supposed to be- 
long to Skipper Clemens' time, when Aalborghuus was 
surrounded by water. 

Skipper Clemens was a naval officer of rank, as his name 
denotes, leader of the Jacquerie who remained faithful 
to the fortunes of second Christian ; Clemens led on the 
Yendel peasants against the nobles who tyrannised over 
them as well as over their imprisoned sovereign. Fearful 



00 AALBORG. Chap.SF 

was the revenge of the boer race : murder, lapine i 
its worst forms. Clemens, at the head of many tk 
sands, defeated Banner and Bosenkrantz at the bdi 
of Svenstrup Heath, and installed himself in Aalte 
Scarce a manor in Jutland remained imdevastated,wi 
burnt to the ground. Clemens was dislodged kterkf 
Kantzau, and defeated in the battle of Aalbor^®^ 
taken prisoner in a moor four English miles frm'l» 
city, in the parish of Storvorde, conveyed to KoMif 
and there broken on the wheel and beheaded. 

At this very time a farmer in the parish of StarFffli 
holds his lands free of all taxes, a perpetual grant fes 
the Danish sovereign, in consequence of Clemens haTiK 
been captured alive within his house.* 

We have nothing more to visit but the Frue Kfe 
a building of the early part of the twelfth (xmtstj^ 
whose round-arch doorway is a most remarkable^ 
cimen of the architecture of the period. The carvi? 
are quaint and primitive, scarcely more advanced* 
works of art than those on the sculptured stones' 
King Gorm at Jellinge ; the dragon appears, as i^ 
in all ornaments of this date. The deacon propfl» 
we should visit the tombs, or rather the coflSns, of t» 
" Normen," as he called them, who, by records tf 
existing, are proved to have been here interred. 



♦ Several letters still exist* in the coUection I have before bUb^ 
to, between King Christian and Skipper Clemens ; in one of which * 
monarch thanks him and his companions for their &ithful sernoe^'' 
desires them to go to Scotland to procure aid. Then againi 31 ^ 
1525, Clemens in a letter begs of the king to send them more 9t^ 
ance. — Signed, " Fynd, Bempe, and Skipper Clemens, your poor, 6* 
and humble servants, as well as Skipper Jackmyn/* Faithful set^ 
they were to their harassed lord ; they did however an immense ^ 
mischiof, un w<i uU ktioTV', In JtiiUmd, 



Chap. XXXV. THE HOG FAMILY. 91 

Sigurd Slemmedegn, or bad deacon, a king of Norway, 
was wrecked in 1139 olff Aalborg, where he passed the 
winter. He got slain the following year in some battle 
against Harald Gilleson, and is said to haye died a 
terrible death. His friends brought over his body and 
interred it in St. Mary's church — ^so the priest of the 
same church, Eield Ealff, attests. Then there is an 
Olaf somfebody — ^another, I doubt not, remarkable in- 
dividual in his day — who lies by his side. The vault 
was so crowded up with Skeels — ^pronounced Scales, like 
Shakespeare's Lord Scales — and Beens, great people in 
their time, if you may judge by their quarterings — 
that the massive oak coffins of the Normen were scarcely 
visible. 

The chapel under which the Normen lie is styled 
the H0g Chapel, and here may be seen one of the 
finest monuments of the Renaissance period existing in 
Denmark or elsewhere, ejected to the memory of Sir 
Erik H0g, one of Christian IV.'s crack men, of Bi0m- 
holm, and Dame Sophia Lange, his wife, date 1647. 
" The noble knight and his high-bom lady '' are repre- 
sented standing in niches, in the surrounding ornaments 
of which are introduced their sixteen quarterings, the 
best blood of Jutland. Sir Erik aroimd his neck bears 
suspended the favourite order of King Christian lY., 
the "armed hand." Many of this family are here 
interred. There is good Gregers H0g, Protestant 
Bishop of Aalborg, who left a sum of money, stiU paid 
in {fusions to poor of his blood (female) in Copenhagen. 
And now let me inform you that this name, H0g though 
it be, has nothing at all swinish about the matter. 
H0g, in the Northern language, signifies " a falcon/* 
I first made this discovery one day while perusing an 



92 AALBORG. Chap.XXP 

ancient ballad. A damsel gaUops in on her paliey. 
" hog on hand." Surprised at her strength of viistl 
looked it out in the dictionary. To go the whole te. 
and be an out-and-outer, you must write your 0^« 
spoke, a letter which does not exist in our Eogfe 
language. Lady H0g, with a spoke in her 0—1 ^ 
sure it looks very distinguished. Observe how a db» 
which in England we certainly do not consider Snphoak 
though highly respectable, here stands foremost anws? 
the highest of the land. At Slagelse hangs ti' 
epitaphium of a pretty girl, in costume like li* 
Jane Grey, a fair Jomfru Karen H0g, who died intk 
palace of Slagelse in 1610, lady of honour to ^ 
Queen Sophia of Mecklenburg. But in Jutland, oA 
pullule, as the French say. 

We have Field-Marshal Niels H0g in King J*i 
days ; J0rgen H0g, possessor of Kieldgaard and Kiabte- 
holm; Stygge H0g, of EshjcBr; Sir Jacob H0gi<^ 
Vang — we shall see him to-morrow between to ^ 
wives ; Mogens H0g, of Todb0l Aastrup, one of ^ 
finest manors of Jutland, presented to Sir Niels M 
by King Christian 11., for services rendered to tp 
unlucky sovereign. At Vennebierg appears a du** 
ment of Sir James H0g, of Trudsholm. Go where J^ 
will, read what you will, you have H0g — ^H0g— B^ 
possessor of all possible manors, buried under i» 
monuments in all possible places. 

In the year 1683 Iver Juul H0g, seduced by ^ 
fescinations of baronial pearls, deserts the cause or ^ 
old Jutland untitled nobility, and appears, fresh* 
nobled, in the hostile ranks as Baron H0g of H0g'^"''' 
he or his son, Knight of the most noble Order of t» 
Elephant, dies in the year 1700, and this name, ^^ 



Chap. XXXV. SULSTED. 93 

trious for centuries in North Jutland, became as a thing 
of the pasty their tombs uncared for, their existence 
ahnost forgotten. 

JuM 29^A. — ^We were to cross the ferry by six, and 
meet the carriage-horses at Sundby, a small rising 
village on the opposite side of the fiorde. From the 
heights you have an admirable view of Aalborg, her 
two church-towers and her shipping — all of most 
prepossessing appearance. The postmaster, to do us 
honour, had routed out an old broken-down berline, 
which we declined, so three-quarters of an hour were 
lost ^in the change ; and when the stuhlwagen does 
appear, it is small and narrow. There is no alternative ; 
the large one has been under repair since December. 



SULSTED. 

We pass by Sulsted, in whose village church sleeps Sir 
Jacob H0g, of Yang (Vang the adjoining manor among 
the trees), in armour, between his two wives. Sulsted, 
whose priest, M0ller by name, together with his brother, 
the pastor of Vadum, during the Holstein 0pror of 
'48 and '49 engaged themselves as volunteers in their 
country's cause, and both rose to the rank of captain. 
So greatly did they distinguish themselves, the general 
commanding said, on their retirement to priestly life, 
that in case of need he should again call upon them 
for their services. As we pass by Aistrup our rotten 
carriage gives way; off flies the wheel and out we 
go — self like a cat, upon my legs — scarlet postboy 
rolls over like a ninepin and bites the dust: again 
an hour's delay. We visit the church and remark 



94 TISE— VILD MOSE. CHAF.33ir. 

its old carved roodloft^ the gift of Petrar Mimk ui 
Karen Skeel. There stands the tomb of J0rgeii BiDe- 
a wicked old soul he must have been, for the veryiel 
coat in his coffin to be so restless. There it liesLi 
coat of some hundred and fifty years since, \md 
lappels and bordered. Each time the neighbor- 
ing manor changes hands the coat is said to leave m 
coffin, stalk on its tails to the manor-house, and thas 
hover about restlessly, turning up on every side— ^ 
the dinner-table, hanging over the arm-chair, fiaj^ 
its lappels in your face as you pass the corridor, p» 
tively refusing to be quiet until replaced by the lef 
proprietor himself in its former resting-place. 

TISE— VILD MOSE. 

We are now mended and arranged, just in tiitf 
to stop at a kro to bait ; so we walk on. Turn to tbe 
west, says the postilion, and then to the south-ei& 
Jutlanders calculate everything by the points of & 
compass : we accomplish the west, but then stick on i 
bank till the carriage arrives, our knowledge aiding b 
to proceed no further. A dreary drive over a crw 
road brings us to Tise ; where we ascend to the cbxaA 
cemetery to obtain a view of the Vild Mose — ^the mo^ 
extensive bog in Jutland, if not in Europe — ^anodie: 
slopping of the deluge, dried up, and, like many cite 
sloppings, leaving a dirty black mark on the fair &« 
of nature. As far as eye can gaze, and further stiH 
extends a vast expanse of mose, seldom traversed &Jt 
by the sportsman after blackgame, and he must leap 
from hillock to hillock, for the bog is formed of small 
sugar-loaf mounds ; and should his foot miss its destasft- 



Cbap. XXXY. B0RGLUM KLOSTER. 95 

tion woe betide him — over he rolls in the mud and 
mire, and ginks, perhaps, never to rise again. 

In the churchyard we again saw many of those old 
timber tombs — ^tnmk of a tree rudely severed— chiefly 
to be met with in ancient churchyards situated on an 
eminence. 

We are out of the land of cemeteries now; plain 
green mounds, like an English viQage. The church is 
in full whitewash, as the^ll appear to be at this season. 
At the threshold lay one of those black liigsteen, as they 
here call them ; engraved with a huge sword, like those 
of Canute's time — that of some warrior dead, perhaps 
not in the odour of sanctity, but allowed, as a privilege 
of birth, to sleep at the church entrance in peace. 

The workman employed in the repairs pointed out 
to us B0rglum Kloster, and related the story of its 
founder, the Holy Enud : he had it all at his fingers' 
end& The Danes, as a nation, are singularly well- 
informed on the history of their own country. We 
then passed through the village of Tise, cowering at the 
hill's-foot — ^houses built very low, ducking from the 
wind, very snug, and windows small. 

B0RGLUM KLOSTEB. 

The moor is all alive with tethered sheep, tethered 
geese, and tethered everything except the plovers, of 
which we never yet saw, certainly never yet ate, so 
many as to-day. Before arriving at B0rglum Kloster 
we first distinguished in the distance what appeared to 
be rugged walls, standing alone, ruins of some gigantic 
castle ; on nearer approach we find them to be bakkes, 
or klints as they here call them, of driven sand, not 



96 LTKKEN. Chap. XXXV. 

dunes, but upright walls, shutting out the sea from the 
inland country. B0rglum Eloster resembles all sup- 
pressed convents. It may have been a lively place in 
the days of Knud,* its founder, not then Holy, but 
somewhat oppressive, severe. Here he intrenched him- 
self against the " 0pror " of the Vendel peasants, with 
whom he was everlastingly at loggerheads — Vendel 
men, who later poked him to death through the window 
of St. Alban's church at Odense. B0iglum was once a 
bishopric. Her last prelate was Bishop Crump ; these 
Crumps appear to have had no luck, and always come 
in at the death of Bomanism in Jutland. He lies in 
the rummelig (roomy) abbey church, as it is called, all 
alone. Bprglum is now* a private residence and farm, 
little changed — a courtyard planted with limes, the 
ancient font a trough. If you care to dbunt wind- 
mills and churches from these heights, you may so till 
your fingers ache ; but we go on to Lykken, to bathe 
once more in the briny ocean, and get some dinner. 

LYKKEN. 

A small fishing village among the sand; splendid 
bathing in a mischievous sea, but to-day as calm as a 
polished mirror. We order dinner; the ladies don 
their bathing costume, and, enveloped in their cloaks, 
walk down to the sea-shore. A delicious bath we had ; 
sea like crystal — a few fishing vessels and nets and the 
klint behind, like one of those pretty sea-pieces by 



* Or at the fStes of May, when the image of the Holy Yirgin mg 
decked with the gold and jewelled crown, a present tram the great 
Queen Margaret, borne on her brow for near two hundred yeani, till 
ChriBtian III., hard up to pay Ida Boldieis, melted it down. 



Cbaf. XXXV. HJ0RRING. 97 

Zeemonn in the Gallery of Copenhagen. No meat to be 
had in this retired place, but excellent fried fish ; and 
a dish of sour cream, as they call it, a national plat, 
senrod up with bread-crumbs and powdered sugar, very 
palatable. N.B. Denmark is the only country I know 
of where bread-crumbs are sold ready grated by the 
ounce or pound, a very dirty practice. 

A diange has come over the Danish flora since we 
came northwards. In Zealand all was white ; here all 
k yellow — ^yellow water-lilies, yellow iris, yellow marsh 
cineraria, field chrysanthemum, galium, as well as 
potentillas and marsh buttercup.* 

HJ0RRING. 

We leave to the right the church of Vennebierg — the 
first object discerned by British seamen on tlieir arrival 
from England off the Jutland coast : and approach the 
ancient ecclesiastical town of Hj0rring, restored to the 
arms of Mother Church now, away from all Pagan 
**ups," in the parish of their sanctities "Hans and 
Olaf." Hj0rring was once the stift (diocese) of a popish 
bishop, whose country residence of Biskopstorp, hard 
by, makes one half fancy oneself in the North Riding, 
far removed from windy Jutland, The little town — 
where, in good King Frode's days, hung one of the 
three golden rings, and with its church embowered 
in wood, and its cemetery in form of a cross — like aU 
old cathedral towns, piques itself on its ancient grandeur, 
as well as on its present respectability ; no commerce 
here, scarcely any shops, but a small population living 
on their " rentes :" to us, arrived from the desert sands 



* Froe peber — Beed-pepper^Banuncnlus ficaria. 
VOL. II. H 



98 HJ0RRING. Cbjlt.JSP, 

and moors, it appears splendid. We walk in thediilf 
public gardens, provided with meny-go-roands vi 
gymnastic poles, listen to the music of a GresK 
band we should have fled from distranght at DoFerff 
Brighton, and think it exquisite. The family of & 
pastor offered us their services for an evening -wit 
so we climbed with them to a h0i ooznmandiBg i 
view of everything for thirty miles round ; the eait 
twelve miles* distance, which looks so placid this aftef- 
noon — ^too gentle to crush the sea-egg shipvrrecked oi 
its sands, or to buffet the stranded sardine — ^with a «ed 
wind in winter season becomes terrible. The natiri 
hear it roaring, deafening all sound, all speech, vha 
at Christmeis-time they gather around their festive bttii 
or lie wakeful in their beds, and address a prayer ^ 
Providence for the safety of those edloat upon is 
waters. 

Some two miles Danish from Hj0rring lies the mus 
of Asdal, one of the most ancient in Jutland. It ki 
farm-house, remarkable now alone for its side of hum 
— ^a side of greater historical notoriety than even tb 
of Dunmow, for this very flitch you see hanging i^^ 
a shrivelled rusty bone, dates from almost five hundni 
years. 

It was in the early part of the fourteenth century tltfi 
Karl P0lse, lord of Asdal, was accustomed to turn out to 
swine in the autumn to feed in the neighbouring finest 
together with those of the lord of Odden. The pio- 
verb at that time ran, "Odden the old, and Asbl 
the bold ;" and a certain rivalry existed between tk 
neighbours. 

The winter drew nigh, and the swine, fattened bj 
beech-mast diet, were now herded, and driven home t» 



Chap. XXXV. THE FLITCH OF BACON, 99 

their respective farms. A dispute, however, arose con- 
eeming the possession of a certain bulky sow, followed 
by a train of some dozen squeaking piglings. "It's mine," 
exclaims the lord of Odden. "No such thing," re- 
plies the lady of Asdal; "I know her by her curly 
taiL" " Fiddlesticks I " continues the lord of Odden : 
" that all depends upon the dryness of the weather. 
Testerday her tail was as straight as your ringlets." 
" m go to law," indignantly answered the lady, not at 
all pleased at the implied insult to her tresses. So to 
law they went The Jutlanders were, and I believe 
are, like their Norman descendants, essentially a litigious 
race. The authorities heard both cases, plaintiff and 
defendant — ^felt puzzled — scratched their polls. The 
matter might have remained undecided to this day, 
had not an ecclesiastic present suggested how on an 
old carved stall in Hj0rring cathedral he had seen 
represented the Judgment of Solomon, and forthwith 
explained the history to the assembled Court, who 
unanimously condemned the sow to be split in twain, 
and a moiety handed over to each contending party, 
with orders to salt and smoke their respective sides 
and hang them up in the manor-hall — the judge de- 
claring in his charge, that whoever preserves his side 
for the longest period free from worms and rust shall be 
pronounced the rightfal possessor of the twelve little 
porkers, which, until the cause be decided, shall be 
considered wards in Chancery, and be allowed to feed, 
increase, and multiply. 

Time rolled on : great had been the preparation of 
the lady of Asdal, and here she had the advantage 
over the lord of Odden, who knew more of the art of 
war than that of drysalting. What spices, what salt- 

H 2 



100 HJ0RRING. Chap.XEV 

petre (if then invented), what curing, what smolasf 
she made use of I cannot pretend to say, but the sideoe 
bacon was a feast only to gaze upon. Little poibs 
grew and multiplied ; the forest swarmed with ooriy 
tails and straight; the side of Asdal is sdll bak 
as ever ; that of Odden has a rusty look, but still » 
harm to speak of. Another inspection is over, the esi 
is still pending, nothing new " in re demurrer," as tk 
papers say ; but after a lapse of years corraptioii de 
clares itself at Odden, decomposition later, and tho. 
worst of all, defeat. 

Loud are the rejoicings at Asdal, louder em 
than the grunting and squeaking of the herd d 
swine, handed over fat (strange to relate) firom CEfatB- 
eery to the possession of its triumphaut mistress 
" Victory," she sings : ''ever while Asdal stands ahall tb} 
side of bacon hang untouched in my hall, or may my 
curse " — but, suffice it to say, the now shrivelled, mflty 
side still remains — ^historical — ^authenticated — an objed 
of superstition, on which the fate of Asdal hangs— Iff 
now five hundred years. It was, you will agree ^ 
me, ^^ a monstrous fuss about a bit of bacon." 

We return to our inn, one story high — ^like all is 
neighbours, it ducks away from wind and bla^; 
find bowpots of honeysuckles (suae patte) in our room: 
the table laid with silver knives ; and they giT? 
us r0d-gr0d, a national dish, a species of red jelly, cod- 
posed of currants, cherries, raspberries, or what yon iril 
served up with cream, to be met with in all \i]hgi 
kros in Jutland, and excellent it is.* 



* In kindness to the rising generation, rice>paddinged, l>e-fl»gtxd 
and be-frnited, we give the receipt for r0d-gr0d :— Take a jant vA • 



Crap. XXXV. CURIOSITY REGARDING STRANGERS. 101 

In the manor of Asdal vast forests once stood, and 
of late years there have been dug up the horns and 
bones of the wild buffalo and the elk, races long extinct 
in Jutland. 

June 30^7*. — ^At six we start. Strangers are rare 
in these parts, and looked upon as objects of curiosity. 
This morning, on my opening the door of the adjoining 
room by mistake, there knelt the grown-up daughter of 
the landlady, her eye applied to the keyhole, watching 
the English ladies at breakfast, with intense satis- 
faction. 

During breakfast a nosegay of fresh roses arrives, ac- 
companied by an envelope containing the visiting-cards 
of our friends of last night, addressed " To the English 
family, from admiring Danes." Well, you may smile ; 
but when a man is turned forty, and inclined to 
corpulence, it is very pleasant to meet with admiring 
" anybodies," I can tell you. 

We are off, our carriage laden with honeysuckles, 
along a splendid chaussee, quite glad to see our old 
friend the electric telegraph again. There's nothing 
like a little absence. We are just as pleased to see 
its wires as you will be to meet your acquaintance 
next May in London — ^the very same people you are 
now, June 30th', sick to death of. 

The journey to-day is picturesque, along the moors 
and heights. Tufts of yellow iris come out from the 



half of juice, either raspberry, cnrrant, or cherry, or mixed, and when 
it boils add three ounces of ground rice. Let it simmer for twenty 
minutes, and before taJdng it off the fire throw in an ounce of sweet 
almonds pounded and an ounce and a half of isinglass. Pour into a 
mould set into cold water, and serre it, when turned out, with thick 
cream round the dish. 



1 02 HJ0RRING. Chat. 1X7. 

coal-black mose — a gCKxl contrast, black and yeflov; 
and farther on runs a line of feathery ootton-giassy pi&t 
white, and spotless. To us, who have made a si- 
weeks' "cure aux epinards" among the new-bsn 
foliage of the beechen forest in early spring, this wid 
colouring possesses a double charm. 



7nAf. XXXVI. H0OHOLT. 103 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

Old manor of H0gholt and itsdairy-fann — Two OMten of Jerup — 
Pontoppidan — Jutland's most northern manor — Lighthonse of 
Skagen — Storm of flying aand — Wrecks — Melons and sea-nettles 
—Sweet gale and bog moss — Frederikshayn — The Jatlond Dido. 



H0GHOLT. 

June SOth. — We leave Aastrup to the left, gift of 
Ghridtian to Sir Niels H0g, his faitlif ul follower ; and 
then, whilst the horses refresh at Hormested kro, walk 
down to yisit the ancient manor of H0gholt, at a quarter 
of a mile's distance. The names of our great people 
of to-day are certainly not euphonious, though Banner 
has a certain illustration to the world at large, for, 
besides the hero of Svenstrup Heath, there is Banner, 
goyemor of Eal0 Castle at the period when Gustavus 
Vasa was there confined, awaiting the arrival of his 
ransom. Gustavus, as you know, escaped, and Banner 
was compelled by angry Christian to pay the sum out 
of his own pocket — more than half his fortune ; still he 
remained faithful to his sovereign to the very last, 
and played a prominent part in the reign of Frederic L 
as well as in that of Christian UL Then we have 
the Dues, Dyres, Daas, and Globs (horrid name I), 
Becks, Bagges, Basses, and many others equally ugly 
and mean-sounding. We arrive at the lake before the 
old manor-house of H0gholt, embosomed within a 



104 H0GHOLT. CHJLB.inVl 

triple row of trees. You enter the court by a kite 
crossing the moat from behind ; the moat green, itstaib 
clothed with flowering elders. As usual in these pafe 
a quaint round tower rises from the inner court T!^ 
entry ! Powers ! had you met the milk-cart laden iMi 
its pails overflowing, slopping away upon the paTemesL 
rich creamy produce of the cow — ^why, the bi-diaiMl 
sloppings of the H0gholt dairy would alone have ^ 
up a London dairyman for life. 

Fish were rising in the lake, and nets hung ont t* 
dry in the cherry-orchard show that the fresh-irate: 
produce of the lake is not despised. I am often *^ 
tonished in England to see how people neglect tk 
fresh-water stews, which in ancient days teemed lii 
pike, carp, perch, eels, and tench. You reply, k 
England we are spoiled for fish. In London, yes; W 
in the country, no ; — ^it's not you, it's the fish which iR 
spoiled. 

The excellence of fresh-water fish depends as miA 
on the previous care bestowed upon them as ontfe 
art of cooking. I remember once, in an old Freci 
ch&teau, to have seen a kitchen in the centre of vbi<i 
were placed two fountains, with basins en ^tage, i 
which the live fish were kept sorted in pure nmniw! 
water for some days previous to their being dressed, flfl^ 
fed with dough, bread-crumbs, and clean food. 

We quit Hpgholt, reminding me much of "Mari«M'« 
moated grange" — ^a charming subject for the pencil 
but not a place to live in. " I'm aweary, I'm aweary,' 
others tlian Mariana must have sung therein. P«s 
my life in such a place ! I'd rather drown myself ffi 
one of the Brobdignagian milk-pails. The moor gro«s 



Jhap. XXXVI. THE WITCHES' PLANT. 105 

wilder and more undulating — sein^^ as the heralds 
lay, with strong-scented cream-colonred orchises * — ^how 
ragrant too it crushes under your feet ! no wonder the 
>e68 thrive around in the cottage hives : look at the 
Liycopodium clavatum — the witches' own plant. What 
I network of green ! pull up a piece — ^pull on — ^four 
^ards, five yards in length ; it breaks, youVe handled 
it too roughly ; you might have gone on for ever, it 
3xtends over the whole heath. Observe those long, 
bender shoots which rise pale-coloured above the brown 
heather: gather one — shake it — ^a fine dust, its seed, falls 
out ; that dust is used by chemists ; they place it in the 
boxes among the pills to keep them separate. Morison 
employs it. If it have a bad odour, it is owing to the 
sulphur they mingle with it, for the powder itself is 
fragrant Hold it above the candle — see how it blazes 
like a firework, a godsend in early times to witches and 
necromancers. The sea now appears in sight, and then 
the town of Frederikshavn. We pass by the public 
garden, all avenue and shady walk ; descend to Zim- 
merman's hotel to dine, and then proceed. 

Our postilion was to drive us to the village of Jerup, 
some two miles' distance, and there engage us two boer's 
carriages to convey us to Skagen, and bring us back to 
Frederikshavn the following day. 

After two hours' drive over a waste moor, well backed 
by the rising dunes of the opposite coast, blue in the 
horizon, carpeted with the flowers of the thrift,t we arrive 
at Jerup, a nest of dairy-farms, in former days a waste, 



♦ Br0ndgTies— watei^grasB. 

t Faare leger— " sheepVfiower "—they caU it in Zealand ; in Jutland 
"the warrior;" here, in Vendsyssel, "daglig brod/*— daily bread; and 
they have enough of it in aU conscience. 



106 JERUP. CHAP.ISril 

where lived only a poor cotter, with his two daugblas 
One day a poor woman passed by, and b^gedaK& 
help in Heaven's name. Said the eldest sister,'^!; 
hen has just laid an egg ; take it> and be wdcoa» 
But tlie youngest gave her nothing but harsh «wt 
Then the poor woman struck the air with her sbS 
and there came forth a farm, which she gave to tk 
eldest daughter. Agam she struck the air, and tbst 
appeared a castle, in which lived a ^' smaa konge; 
this she assigned to the youngest ; but the giri beoK 
proud and haughty ; her husband soon got tired of te 
and sent her back to her father's cottage. The dfe 
sister and all about her thrived — her cattle increased: 
her lands were reclaimed ; and she and her descesda^ 
grew rich, as the farms round Jerup testify even at As 
time. After a delay of half an hour a peasant agi^ 
to furnish us with two carriages-— a low sort of st«tt 
wagen, not on springs, but by no means rough, di»« 
by two horses — and bring us back to-morrow, for tk 
sum of seven dollars each; waggons to comd "strax 
immediately. Now, if there be a detestable w^d ^ 
the Danish language it is " strax ; " it always signife 
any space of time, beyond the endurance of hoDfi* 
patience and resignation. At the end of two hours 4ej 
come, a splendid pair of young chesnuts ; they woos 
not disgrace Hyde Park ; the blacks too are good ^ 
viceable beasts, though less showy.. Horse-flesh i^ 
proves as we go northwarda From the stables ^ 
drive close to the sea-side, one wheel in the ^ 
along the hard sand. A terrible coast this ; the veij 
shells are pounded into powder by the waves — afl*'' 
the pelican's-foot,* and that is strong enough to ress 

* Strombus pes pelican!. 



Chap. XXXVI. SKAGEN. 107 

the wear and tear of wind or ocean. Pontoppidan 
promised us sea-cats, sea-mice, and sea-wolves. This 
part of Jutland, as far as the village of Aalbeek, is 
more densely populated by the peasant tribe than any 
we have yet visited — gaards, form-buildings, cattle 
in abundance ; and then later we pass by a wreck — a 
ship sunk among the shoals; dip into a quick-sand, 
and are dragged out again ; then drive by the manor 
of Lindholm, the most northern of all Jutland strong 
holds, in Queen Margaret's time, of the noble house of 
Bugge. Twilight comes on ; the lighthouse of Skagen 
is faintly visible on the horizon. We drive now inland 
— ^brown moor, relieved by shining sand, and dunes 
glistening in the evening shades like snow. Pass by 
old Skagen church-tower, half buried beneath a waste 
— ^boats on the shore, nets hung to dry. We enter 
the village, or rather settlement, toil our way through 
the 'sand ; each cottage stands by itself on a square 
plot of land, on espalier-frames ; to a network of ropes 
hang fish drying by hundreds ; com too and potatoes 
flourish At last we reach a small, long, one-storied 
house, embowered in trees — ^the kro— our resting- 
place. We knock. Hallo! No answer. What tra- 
veller ever arrives at Skagen after midnight? At 
length the master appears, and later women but half 
awake; in ten minutes our beds are prepared, and 
before long we are asleep. 

SKAGEN. 

July let, — We wade out through the sand, knee-deep, 
to our bath before breakfast — fish split and drying in 
their netting-frames, and something else, by no means . 
grateful to the smell : they look like peas ; so I ask a 



108 SKAGEN. Chap, nm 

woman where they come from ? " The sea." Peas gn» 
in the sea ! Then calling to mind the stranded vesaAd 
last night, I discover how Skagen has been doing ^ a litfe 
wrecking/* like her Cornish cousins : a vessel, <m ha 
way from Stettin, ran aground lastweek. Our baUim 
less private than we imagined ; for though we sneakei 
out early, almost unseen, the news got wind of ladb 
swimming in the Kattegat; fishwomen and childiei 
(the men had been out at sea since dawn of ^! 
crowded the dunes, too happy to stare and wonder. 

Breakfast over, we drive to the newly-built lighthoox, 
mount to the summit, and, glass in hand, gain someidai 
of the village of Skagen. Gazing northward, the hsi 
runs tapering finely down, like a bullock's tongue — ^thoo^ 
the name is derived from some ancient ScandinaT3ii& 
word signifying "nose," — at whose extreme point tie 
sister waters of the Northern Ocean, stormy and violeiit 
embrace and mingle with the more gentle Kattegat 
who, as she nears the meeting-point, makes believe Id 
a little tide of her own. Kattegat is not an open set; 
her velvet paws betray her; she looks meek ami 
placid, but in the course of this present week hn 
wrecked two vessels, stranded on the shore before they 
gained the open sea. 

Turning to the south, before you lies the vill^, 
planted in the sand in the form of an English X. Tec 
will wonder why the fishers chose this place of sand for 
their settlement, when heath and dry moor — terra fiim» 
— were at command on the western coast: patiaice, 
and you will hear. 

In front, to the right, stands the old lighthouse^ now 
for sale, but no purchaser appears ; who would wish to 
drag old materials over a plain of sand ? by its side 



Chap. XSLXVl, SANDSTORM. 109 

pretty, clean, striped houses, backed by a little grove of 
trees ; then again, beyond the village, in the centre of 
a baby forest, stands the house of the chief magistrate ; 
you can hardly see it, so shut in is it from the wrath of 
wind and sand. 

Further still, on the western coast, stands, rising from 
a mountainous sea of silver-glistening sand, the half- 
buried church of " Gammel Skagen," long since dis- 
used, — built, says tradition, of the stones brought by 
English and Dutch seamen ; not improbable, as in old 
popish days these church landmarks fared well in 
offerings from the grateful mariner. 

It was in the year 1775, on a common prayer day, — 
of which in the Danish Church there were formerly 
many, thanksgivings for fires extinguished and pestilence 
stayed, and other mercies long since forgotten, — while 
the inhabitants of Skagen were engaged in divine ser- 
vice, there arose suddenly a storm, accompam'ed by a 
whirlwind of " flying sand," carrying desolation over 
the fields and the village of this devoted settlement, 
and entirely filling up the holy well of St. Lawrence, 
whose water proved infallible even in the 18th century. 
Before the affrighted inhabitants could leave the 
building, where they still remained cowering for shelter, 
the church was half-buried beneath its fury, the doors 
blocked up, and they compelled to escape by the windows 
of the belfry. Since that period the building has been 
no longer used. The colony emigrated to the opposite 
coast, where the village is now situated. 

We inquired if any English vessels ever touched at 
Skagen ? " Yes," the man at the lighthouse replied ; 
" when they are wrecked, not otherwise :" a visit 
more honoured in the breach than in the observance. 



110 SKAGEN. CBAP.XXXn. 

Behind the tower stands the residence of the pfqib 
employed at the lighthouse — the head man a r^M 
officer. 

The melons of Skagen enjoy a considerable repm»- 
tion in the gastronomic world, and fish in oonfflderifafe 
quantities are exported to Sweden. The man at A* 
Phare takes a pride in his flowers : splendid oleanden* 
passion-flowers, and picotees were blooming in his pc^ 
lour-window. Whilst on high we observed a cwatm 
effect of the clouds over the Kattegat; three e^x 
appeared in the horizon, the mist separating ibes 
from the water, giving them the effect of naval ballooa 
floating through the heavens. Skagen, too, ho^ 
one sepidchral tumulus — resting-place of some ston- 
loving Scandinavian. We now embark again, ai^ 
drive to the '^Nose's" point; stand one foot in tk 
North Sea, the other one in the Kattegat, and do-4 
forget what, but something our host, who accompaiiM 
us, told us was the correct thing. Huge masses d 
glutinous substance, of brick-dust red and cobalt blue, 
lie stranded on the shore, some three and four feet ia 
circumference, beautiful to look upon ; what a troavulk 
for a vivarium! These animals are said to posses 
medicinal qualities ; and at Sandifiord in Norway tboe 
exists a sea-bathing place, where those who are maitrs 
to rheumatic pains go and make a ^' cure amc actinec,'' 
bathe in the burning sand, and have their bodies rubbed 
down with live jelly-fish.*' 



* Pontoppidan, worthy old prelate, does his very best to get «pi 
few remarkable events in honour of this the most northern Tillage d 
Jutland. In the year 1281 a fish very like, not a whale, bat a ho. 
ravaged the coast, devouring fishermen and women, cracking th^ 
bones like filberts. Passing over a few awful battles with the Ncvtfa- 



CajLP. XXXVI, SWEET GALE. Ill 

We returned to our kro by the west coast, across the 
dowDSy partly converted into heath. Sheep browse on 
the waste, and the mutton is excellent, if such as we 
had at breakfast — ^like our own Southdown, or the Pr6 
Sale so much esteemed in France. 

Skagen has her flora : all the heathy tribe — 
hollowlip (huUeloebe), lapwing's-fat, and Our Lady's 
eye-tears,* as the peasants call them. Something 
crushed fragrant under my feet; an old Jutlander 
cries out to me firom his cart, " Gather some of that 
shrub." I do so, smell it^ and highly aromatic it 
proved to be — ^the sweet gale,t used both here and in 
Grermany for flavouring pale ale; in Danish called 
Poise, like the duke. We pay our moderate bill and 
start— N.B. The women varnished our bottines — grati- 
fying, but inconvenient, as the sand caked to them 
like scouring-paper — and, after two hours' drive, we 
leave the sea and ctoss the moor land — a pleasant 
change, as the day is cool and the air fragrant — ^till 
we again arrive at Jerup, and stop to bait our horses 
in their native stalls. 

The Vendel boer, as they are here all called north of 
the Liimfiorde, ushers us into his house, which reminds 
me much of Brittany, with its ship-cabin beds and 
carved chest of drawers, painted red and picked out in 



men, we, in the 16th centnrj, come upon a child born with two fitces — 
most inconvenient in this sand-driving country. Then Skagen has its 
crack men. One, son of a fisherman, became Bishop of Stavanger ; 
another Bishop of Zealand ; a third was Professor of Mathematics at 
Copenhagen ; and many others, all well known under the name of their 
native town (Skagbo), latinized into Scavenins. 

* Epipactis palustris, Pingoicnla, and Drosero. 

t Myricagale. 



112 SKAGEK. Chap. XSm 

divers gaudy colours. The "huus firu " enters quiitit, 
bids us welcome, placing on the table not *' bntter ibs 
lordly dish," as they do in Norway— she brings a js^ 
of fresh milk, and bids us drink. But with the fnisi- 
ture and wooden settles ends the likeness to dii^ 
Brittany: here all is of a Dutch cleanliness. Tk 
women in their queer frilled caps and good stoat dresBei 
clean and neat, knit as fast as they talk, and « 
their tongues run glibly the stocking advances quicUt. 
We sit down to write our journals, and then an a^ 
peasant in gray homespun, very white hair, and ^e^ 
tacles on nose, enters and wishes us good day — " Fobt 
people writing at the same time ; we don't often see 
such a sight in these parts." He then examines our 
calligraphy — " You write the best," he says to one; 
"you next; you next; and you the worsts*' to me— 
a most unjust remark, and a proof of bad taste on he 
part. Had the ladies been ever at school ? he was Ik 
schoolmaster: if we liked we might come across tk 
road and write in his school-house at the de^— 
a tempting offer we could not accept, as the horses 
were already harnessed. The farmer himself aocoo- 
panics us this time, to the great disgust of his son 
who was looking forward to a lark at Frederikshavn,! 
dare say. The boy looks sorrowful, but father (« 
splendid fellow, like BoUo ; one wonders how any hoise 
can bear his tail athletic frame) is inexorable. We 
start; half-way exchange our spirited chesnnts, too 
young to be hackneyed about, for a pair of wicked-eyoi 
ponies, in fur collars and blinkers (de la fourrure apres 
Paques, quel pays !), and arrive towards eleven at Pre- 
derikshavn. 



CtaAP. XXXVL FREDERIKSHAVN. 113 

FEEDERIKSHAVN, 

«7ttZy 2nd. — On our arrival last night we found the 
hotel nigh deserted ; were received by an important- 
looking boy of twelve years of age or thereabouts, who 
seemed awfully afironted at our calling him " lille 
dreng." It was not until this morning we became 
aware of the cause. The whole family, landlord, 
landlady, housemaids, cooks, kitchenmaids, boots, and 
waiter, had passed the night at a ball in the neighbour- 
ing ** skov." 

Our Vendel boers come in to widi us " farvel," 
**tak for idag," shake hands with us all round, and ex- 
press their pleasure at having driven us. We would 

not like to part with little Lina, would we ? If so 

Lina, aflrighted, retires under the protection of her 
migtress's ample petticoats at the very mention of such 
a fete. Well ! she might be worse off. Plenty of good 
milk at the fermhouse, and no sparing. 

Frederikshavn is a pretty little town, beautifully 
situated, consisting chiefly of one long street, running 
down to the water's edge— its harbour protected, by 
one solid martello tower, built by Tordenskiold, at 
the end of its citadel : the peasants stiU call it Flad*^ 
strand* — its ancient name. It was offered for sale 
m the last century for the sum of 4000 dollars. A 
change since then — aplenty of shipping, clean houses, 
and charming shady public gardens, the pavement its 
only weak or rather rough point. All that can be 
effected in Jutland to make their cities desirable as resi- 



^ In former days the post poased through Fladstmnd on its way to 
Korway, it being the nearest harbour of communication. 
VOL. II. I 



114 FREDEWKSHAVX. CEiP.SBl 

dences to the lower as well as to the higher dawi 
done by the Datives themselves in conjimctioii ri 
the authorities. It is a pleasure to see how happy tk 
lower classes are : how they enjoy the advantage i 
air, shade, and water, of which the inhabitants of c« 
own large cities are debarred. The Danes slaA 
be a contented and happy people, as I believe tb 
to be ; for never in any land will you see bo littk 
indeed, such an entire absence, of poverty— pei^ 
among the higher classes not the great rent-rolls « 
meet with in England, but such a general a^pgeuu^ 
of " aisance ** among all — ^from the Iiighest to o* 
humblest cottager. 

The roughness of the climate causes the houses to ir 
mostly fresh coloured externally every spring, and^k 
constant burning of stoves during the long winters noi», 
frequent paint and whitewash in the rooms a matter^ 
course. This accounts for the exquisite neatness 
the dwellings. When you do meet with a cotlap^ 
bad appearance, it is sure to be a condemned tenewff^ 
Don't judge its inhabitants hastily, but enter its 4)* 
— "look up the chimney ;" and when you see tirtf"^ 
four sides of bacon smoking for winter's oonBumpO* 
a store full of potatoes, a chest full of good stout Suni?! 
clothes, rest assured poverty is not there, and that* 
year another cottage will arise, all black and yell* 
timber stripes, fresh from its ruins. Perhaps at d 
very moment the peasant is employed cooking to^ 
burnt bricks, and has purchased his double window,' 
ready framed and glazed, at the neighbouring tsisM 
town. 

We passed by our old splendid chaussee on * 
Hjorring road, as far as Knivholt, and then^ torfli^^ 



QiAP. XXXVI. 8JEBT. 115 

the right, climbed up over the moor — a steep ascent — 
to a li0i near the pollarded church of Flade, her tower 
blown over by the raging storms; so we scrambled 
up a brown-skinned barrow, half dug out^ all alive with 
ripe bilberries ; and stood for some time gazing at the 
panorama before us, extending to Skagen. We plainly 
distinguished the lighthouse; and the little town of 
Fredericia, with its ships and harbour^ looked prettier 
than ever. 

If Flade church be exposed on her heights, her 
praestegaard snuggles comfortably, protected by a 
lovely beech forest^ at the bottom of a natural punch- 
bowl, laughing at storm and winter breezes. 

We now descend, and, after a most picturesque but 
somewhat perilous descent among fieirms and woods, 
gain the high road, which runs along the waterside, 
across a monotonous country on to Saeby. We pass by 
an ancient manor, whose name escapes me, once cradle 
of the Pack family, though long since changed hands. 
The small white church of Saeby is plainly visible, 
jutting out on the searside. 

At the entrance of Saeby we are received, as we 
cross the bridge which traverses the little Saeby Aa, by 
a nest of young storks, both parents out, left to their 
own devices. They evince a desire to fly : stretch first 
one leg, then the other, shake their new-fledged wings, 
give a hop,— courage not up to the point yet ; like a 
schoolboy at the swimming-school, about to try his first 
header. Their resolution fixed, they make a plunge in 
the air, and come (as the boy does, a plat ventre on the 
water) tumbling, rattling down on the roof-Aves below. 

I 2 



116 S^BT. CHiP.XSm 

No harm done 1 We order dinner at the inn, lol 
adjourn to bathe. What a luxury, after a three teas 
dusty drive, a plunge in a sea sparkling like te- 
To gain it we again pass the bridge ; lots of small tnsi 
playing in the riyer: a pure briny sea, andfreBhitfr 
ning river water. 

We have a peep on our way at Ssebygaard, an » 
country residence of the Bishops of B0rglunL Not fc 
from where we now are stands the manor of LingBl^a 
some centuries since the cause of disputes betweea* 
widow lady— a Jutland Dido — and her nearest relati* 
The suit had lasted long, and was still undecided,' 
the widow proposed a compromise. She consented 
waive her claim to the disputed lands on conditioJisir 
may be allowed to sow this one year's crop, and le? 
it when it came to fall maturity. Her antagoflH 
delighted at this easy ending, gives his full consent; ttr 
deed is signed and sealed, and our feir one conunenfls 
her sowing. What does she sow? A^Tieat? no! Bari? 
no ! Eape ? no ! You'll never guess ! She sows a fa*^ 
of beech-masts. Her right to cut them when they coi^ 
to full maturity. This forest was standing notnitf! 
years since. 



Phap. XXXVn, yOEBGAABD. 117 



CHAPTER XXXVI,L 

Manor of Yoergaard — Skipper Clemens and Biehop Crump again — 
Jjody Ingeborg Skeel and the architect — The message of her hus- 
band — Her disturbed spirit — Her prison, the Rosodonten — Her 
Sunday pastime — Her monument — The road-side inns of Queen 
Margaret — Jutland mode of boiling eggs. 



VOERGAARD. 

The postboy turns off the high road to Voergaard, one 
of the most interesting chateaux, both from its archi- 
tecture and history, in the whole of Vendsyssel, a splendid 
specimen of the early Renaissance, built of red brick and 
sandstone. As you pews under the gateway, rich in stone 
carvitigs, of a somewhat diabolical character, above 
stand two shields, the armorial bearings of its founders, 
Fnie Ingeborg Skeel and her husbaaid Otto Banner, 
with the date 1538. In the earlier part of the fifteenth 
century Voergaard was the property of the B0rglum 
bishops. In 1534 it underwent the fate of all noble 
residences in these parts, was destroyed and burnt to 
the ground by Skipper Clemens and his band, "who 
hunted," says the old chronicler, "Bishop Crump" 
(Bishop Crump, who looks as good as gold on his tomb- 
stone) and ." his FriUe " (impossible to translate such a 
word when speaking of an ecclesiastic) "Elizabeth 
Gyldenstieme from their good rest ;" so that the Bishop 
"krob udi muus hul" — crept into a mouse-hole; an 
exaggeration of the chronicle, for it was only in a baker's 
oven that he took refuge. Voergaard is burnt and 



118 yOERGAARD. CEir.Sni 

sacked, and later comes into the posseaaionof oforp 
sent heroine, the lady Ingeborg Skeel, a womaD ofV^ 
birth and strong mind, endued with oonsammate ti^ 
but unfortunately without the means of gratifyinf it 
Build a manor-house she would, by hook or by croii 
and one that in richness and beauty should soiptf 
all her neighbours. So she sends for an archiiB^ 
orders in timber— of that there is no want oiiher(?« 
estates — ^bakes her own bricks, and has sandstone o« 
from the island of Bomholm. The first caigo anim 
and that she pays for, but when the second asd b 
third appear her purse is empty, but her wit is sla? 
A storm arises in the night ; she sends down her titff 
minions, causes the cables of the yessels to be cot, fl 
east wind drives them ashore, and she, lady d ^ 
manor, by the ancient law of '^ flotsam and jetm 
claims the cargo as her own* 

The building now advances, the towers rise; i** 
and quaint are the stone carvings around the wiwk* 
and portals. Never were such yet seen in Vendsj*^ 
At last it is completed, but the architect must be p 
and where is the money to come from? Here's* 
puzzler- again I Don't be alarmed : trust the ^ 
Ingeborg. Where there's a will, there's a way; ^^ 
orders the architect to bring his bill receipted andjsf 
pared to receive his money. The architect arriTes^s 
the massive keys of the castle, ready to hand them ofS9 
its noble mistress. " But, before we settle our acoooBfe 
says she, " we will first go together over the wW 
castle, and see that all is right Leave your billl^ 
Knight of the Keys of Bronze," she playfully ^ 
passing the bunch, weighing nearly half a ton, roun^l* 
neck. " Leave them where they are, I insist; J^* 



,^ 



Chap. XXXVIL LADY INGEBORG SKEEL. 119. 

shall not take them off I" so they proceed together to 
examine the rooms one after the other, and then pass 
— the poor architect groaning under the weight of his 
burden— over the drawbridge which connects the moat 
with the castle. "Stop!" she cries; "look at that 
eastern tower; surely, the piles hare sunk. Lean< 
over ! '* The man obeys. A push from the lady — he 
falls headlong into the moat, borne down by the weight 
of the keys, to rise no more. 

When Ingeborg feels sure he is drowned she calls 
wildly for assistance. The body is withdrawn from its 
wateiy graye, but the receipted bill remains in her 
possession. 

She was a fine old Jutland gentlewoman, 
One of the olden time. 

The husband, Otto Banner, was just as bad as 
Ingeborg herself, and the cruelties and extortions 
practised by both on their peasant serfs were beyond 
belief. At last Otto dies, and on the anniversary of 
his death the lady Ingeborg drives to church in great 
state, and says to Clans, her coachman, ''I should like 
to hear how my husband is." The coachman replies, 
" My lady, that is not so easily known ; but T do not 
think he suffers from cold where he now dweUs." The 
lady became furious, and threatened the coachman with 
death if he did not, before the third Sunday, bring her 
tidings of her lord. The affiighted Claus applies to the 
parson of Albask, ''who was as learned as any bishop ;" 
but he declined the task. Happily Claus had a brother 
a clergyman in Norway ; and as, says the legend, the 
parsons of Norway are more cunning in these matters 
than any other, Claus went to his brother, who takes 
him at midnight to a cross-road in a forest, where he 



120 VOERGAARD. .Chap. XXXm 

conjures up his deceased master, dans deUyentk 
message of the lady Ingeborg. " Tell her/' rej^csb 
master, <^ that I have gone where a chair is prejmag 
for her, and she will be taken when it is finished, mfai 
she gives back the meadows of Agersted. But to pm 
that you have spoken to me, I give yon my bridal lif 
to show to her." Claus reaches forth his hat to ree^ 
the ring, and waits on the third Sunday at the dinxck- 
gate for his mistress. He gives the message and the im 
" Well," said the lady, " you have saved your life; bati 
wiU never give back the meadows of Agersted.*' Shcrif 
afterwards there is a great funeral feast at Yoer chnid 
for the lady Ingeborg is to be buried ; but do isi 
imagine she rested quiet in her grave — she letmsd 
every night and made such unearthly noises in the cooit- 
yard, that the parson of Alsted was forced to conjure ki 
down in a bog hard by, called the Pulse. But she stS 
appears on Christmas-eve, when she drives over tk 
drawbridge into the inner courtyard in a coach dran 
by six horses, with fire glaring firom their nostiils vi 
mouths, and she is often seen in the Pulse combing fa? 
long hair with a golden comb. On every New Tear s ni^ 
she is permitted to advance the length of a cock's siff 
towards the manor-house, and when she has reached it 
Voergaard will inevitably sink. Neither grass nor in» 
ever grows at the place where she has been conjnied 
down into the mose, and, by help of the scorched ffpc/a 
in the adjacent field, it may always be ascertained haff 
many lengths of a cock's step she has proceeded towaris 
Voergaard. 

The chateau consists of one corps de batLmaIl^ 
flanked by two octagonal towers ; the wings, if theft 
were any, have been destroyed. When standing in tk 



. Chap. XXXVII. , THE " ROSODONTEN." 121 

C5onrtyard among the milk-pails — ^foir we have here 
300 cows, each morning some ton and a half of butter 
.made before breakfast* — I could apt help thinking 
hiow well one of our water-colour artists might have 
limned this out. It is a wonder they never travel in 
Jutland; they would find living cheap and a new 
subject for their pencils. 

V The intendante came out with her keys, and askedsus 
if we should like to visit the rooms: one, hung with 
splendid embossed Flemish leather, alone attests the 
'former magnificence of the building. The oak and 
walnut carved doors still remaining show that Frue 
Ingeborg knew what she was about As for the loft, 
you might lodge a regiment therein, and the timber 
walls are constructed with a solidity only to be accom- 
plished by those who do not pay their reckonings. 

Ingeborg, too, had no idea of beiug defenceless. In 
the cellars at the basement of her octagonal towers 
were placed cannons, ready to sweep the neighbouring 
country at a moment's notice. As for her prisons, 
the " Rosodonten," — with its iron hooks for hanging and 
torture, her own invention, — without window, door, or 
opening, in which human bones were lately discovered, 
is one of the most horrible that can be imagined. In 
the year 1841 several murders were committed in the 
Yendsyssel, and the people suspected lodged in the 
prison of the Bosodonten. One night was sufScient ; 
terrified, they declared, by the menaces of Frue Ingeborg 
Skeel, they one after another confessed their crime, 
declaring they would rather be hanged or lose their 



* OalculatiDg the Daolsh ton at 118 Ibe. Englifib, nearly 180 per diem. 



122 DRONNIKGLUND. CM.ISini 

heads a dozen times over than pass another ni^ii 
such villanous company. 

On quitting the court we drove to the village ctaA 
along the very road by which one Sunday mom 4» 
lady Ingeborg rode in her gilt caroche ; and spbao? 
by the way, for she was never idle, she sees a Bi 
child among the com, plucking the ears and eating tie 
grain ; so she stops the carriage. " Ck)me here, 84 
girl; what are you about?" "Eating com, pleaa 
my lady." "Oh! so you can*t keep your hands &■ 
picking and stealing, can't you? hold tiiem up!" ^ 
child obeys. Snip I snip ! off go her fingers, bcww 
by the steel scissors worn at the girdle of the relente 
lady of the manor. We visited the church, where tf 
stands the splendid carved oak " pue " used by Ingete? 
in her lifetime ; and in the Skeel chapel, out-toppDg^ 
edifice itself in height, admired the splendid Benaiseaiitf 
monument, erected in her lifetime to her husband •*• 
herself. They are represented kneeling face to te 
It is 80 feet high, and is, I am sorry to say, goiBg * 
decay from damp and neglect 

DBONNINGLUKD. 
We went to visit Dronninglund on our way, a to 
extensive manor, imder restoration, once a convent » 
Benedictine nuns, founded by Frue Gro in the 13th cea* 
tury, by name Hunslundkloater, until it became seit 
larised and stamped with an f[* (Frederic and SopW- 
Queen Margaret loved it much, and founded there an s^ 
for herself and friends and perpetual mass for their flcw* 
Of Queen Margaret's friends the less said the better. ^ 
thought her nephew and successor Erik the Pomeiani*'^ 



C^AP. XXXVn. HJALLERUP. 123 

when he chopped off the head of her particular pet, 
Abraham BroderB0ii. Blessed is the memory of great 
Qaeen Margaret to all travellers in Jutland, for to her 
thoughtful care we owe the existence of our roadside 
kros. Among her laws and ordinances is one enactment 
by which she orders the establishment of kros on the high- 
way at a distance of each four Danish miles, ** where 
every man shall find rest for his money and his ease, 
as the lodging (it proceeds to say) in private houses 
in the villages costs dearer than in the mercantile 
towna** 

Dronninglund looks like a convent still. In France, 
Italy, Spain, or anywhere you please, do what you will 
to these ancient ecclesiastical buildings — call them slot, 
gaard, lund, lyst, lust — the scarlet lady still peeps out 
in every comer. A thick sea-fog has just come on — 
havguse, they here call it — so we could not see much of 
the gardens, and, as we drove on over the dark moor, it 
became thicker and thicker. The wind began to howl^ 
and some of the party to grumble. There are some 
countries one expects to be blown about in, and Jutland 
is one of them. 

HJALLERUP. 

It was past eleven before we arrived at Hjallerup 
kro, where we remained the night. Impossible to con- 
tinue our journey ; we should not have reached Sundby 
before four in the morning, and found the ferrymen all 
asleep. Clean rooms and beds and an exceUent break- 
fast next morning consoled us for our misfortunes : a 
very Scotch repast — ^fish, flesh, and fowl, and eggs — 
piles of eggs boiled to a bubble, not by the clocks, 
not by the hour-glass, but according to an old Jutland 



124 HJALLERUP. CaAP.HXm 

custom. When the Bervantrgirl boils the eggs, Ae i 
carefal, as soon as they are put into the 8anoepaD,t3 
repeat twice the Lord's Prayer slowly and with les^ 
Tence, for then the eggs will be well boiled, neither w 
hard nor too soft, and are sure to have a good flavc» 
"WTien she takes the eggs from under the hen she nem 
leaves less than five, for the hens can count up to dtf 
number and no more. 

4th July. — ^Three days* rest at Aalborg. Not qoife 
so for me, as I must be up betimes to visit Ntttliffli 
some five Danish miles distant: my series of histom 
manors will not be complete without The want i 
energy in womankind is fearful: no one will accompli^ 
me. As for Christina Munk, they have done with te 
visited the place she died, and don't want to commeas 
over again at her birthplace. So, unencumbered b 
capes and shawls, and other discomforts which iuvariaUj 
accompany the presence of ladies, I slip into my stoU* 
wagen at three minutes before five, without any feeling rf 
irritation at being kept waiting. All smooth and serese 
this morning; electric telegraph rather in bad boob 
to-day ; road dull and ugly until we arrive at Svenstziip 
Heath, black and redolent with patches of fragnai 
thyme. Capital place for a battle : room for a chaige, 
though the retreating cavalry would run a good chance 
of getting bogged, whichever way they took. 

We pass by Buderupgaard, prettily situated off lie 
road, remarkable as being the only manor which escaped 
devastation at the hands of Skipper Clemens. The rail 
now improves. Near Gravlev, a village beautifiilh 
situated on the heights above, is a lake, now half-dried 
up ; in a few years it will all be under cultivation. 

Take the map in your hand and the high ground d 



CTxiAP. XXXVlh " LILLE VILD MOSE." 125 

A^alborg Amt as your centre, you will find it surrounded 
by a continuation of villages bearing the name of holm 
or island ; then again towards the east Ues the " Lille 
Vild Mose," a huge bog extending over miles, the 
e£fects of one of those awful inundations of the sea so 
common in the earlier centuriea Having done its 
worst, the sea has thrown up dunes so high as to be 
called " Muld bjergene." Well, in the centr^f this bog 
lie four small lakes, or S0, now brought into culti- 
vation. The turf, as we aD know, grows upwards, and 
IB now fifteen feet above the level of the lake's banks. 
Every year, as the plough passes over these lands, 
urns containing bones are turned up, composed of the 
same black Jutland pottery now sold at the canal 
by the Amagertorv in Copenhagen, ornamented with 
the zigzag decoration, such as you find on all the earlier 
round-arch doorways of the earliest Christian period, 
as the Frue Eirke at Aalborg. In one of them 
was discovered a small bone cross — ^perhaps brought 
over from Christian lands, as the burning of bodies is 
supposed to have gone out of fashion after the intro- 
duction of Christianity in Denmark. Be this as it may, 
it proves that the immersion of these lands took place 
at a period not very far removed from us in the history 
of the world's creation. Amber, too, is foimd on the 
highest eminences of Stensbsek, in the Yendsyssel 
country. 

We now turn off to the right, and enter a forest 
of beeches, banks clothed with the vintergrpm ♦ 
(winter-green) in full blossom ; pass by the manor-house 

• Pyrola. 



126 TOBDESLUND. Cbap. XXXVII. 

of Tordeslund — a pleasanter drive now than in the 
days of Yaldemar Atterdag, for documents exist in 
which he gives orders for its destruction, describing 
it as a '' nest of robbers." Queen Margaret, however, 
spared it at the request of a *' friend.'' And now we 
come to N0rlund, the object of my pilgrimage. 



Chap. XXXVIIL N0RLTOD. 127 



CHAPTEE XXXVIII. 

N^rlund Manor — £llen liarsviin and Lndvig Mnnk — Meeting of 
King ChriBtian and the fair Ghiifltina — Names of the Jutland 
nobility — Almahouae of Aalborg — Scottish guard of Christian n. — 
Prince Niels and his tutor — Duke Knud's suit of scarlet — Menuaid 
monument at Tiele. 



N0KLUND. 

Towards the middle of the 16th century, a knight of 
wealth and some renown, Ludvig Munk hj name, not 
in the flower of his youth, courted a fair damsel, Ellen 
Marsviin, daughter of a neighbouring noble. You re- 
collect we have already seen her portrait at Bosen- 
holm — ^plump and fair, with laughing eyes, just the 
beauty to captivate a man of fifty. The young Ellen 
had no wish to marry, and Ludvig might have been 
her father; so she langhs at his suit, teazes him, as 
girls sometimes will do, and only renders his passion 
more ardent. 

Where we now stand, surroimded by woods, was in 
those days a marshy swamp. Imagine the noble 
knight on his good war-horse riding by the side of 
Ellen's ambling palfrey : he presses hard his suit ; it 
becomes wearisome ; the maid, at last impatient, with- 
draws hastily her glove and casts it into the centre. 
"Build me," she exclaims, "a palace in the middle 
of this mose — a palace which shall surpass all those 
now rising around us (they had all been lately 
d^troyed by Skipper Clemens and his band), with 



128 ^'0RLU^^). cmp.nniu. 

a tower from the top of which I can gaze on St fe 
dolph's church at Aalborg, and I am yonre. Ui£ 
that, leave me in peace and quietness^" Little did i 
know Ludvig Munk. Before many months had dapet 
a stately mansion, built upon deep-driven piles, be«si 
to rise; the foundations, too, of the tower are kii 
The workmen are relieved day and nighty for Loiific 
feels he has no time to lose. 

Touched by his constancy, fair Ellen marries hia * 
once, long before the palace is completed, and beesEf 
later mother of Christina Munk, who was here bonuas^ 
whom Christian IV. first met on a visit to XorlraiA fi£ 
shortly after espoused at seventeen years of age. Scsf 
authors declare Ellen to have laid snares for fe 
king, and to have taken her daughter regularly to ti^ 
Frue Kirke, and placed her in front of the royal cl«« 
to attract his attention^ The bait did not take at fast; 
but after a time his curiosity was excited : struck ^5 
her beauty and the richness of her dress, he inquir^ 
who she was ; was told she was a daught^ of the widi^ 
Munk ; and, if the 'portraits of Christina in her e«^ 
youth do not flatter her, she must have been very piettr.* 

Christian accuses Ellen of having a hand in ker 
daughter's disgrace — of being aware of " her daughter': 
flighty life, which she carried on publicly, and which diJ 



* In addition to ber personal attractions Christina Monk tms m 
of the greatest heiresses of the day, a circnmstance of which Ks$ 
Christian seems to have heen perfectly aware» for I find a letter a 
which he urges Ellen to assure her daughter's succession ; and at & 
time of their mutual disgrace *' he orders EUen to deliTer over Aft 
properties, of BoUer and Rosenvald for her daughter's mainteosaK 
"Witiiout saying of him ** Han meete Beden, og ey Fuglen,** — he tLiab 
of the nest and not of the bird — he had no objection to the goods »^ 
chattels of his morganatic spouse as a proyision for his cliildren. 



CkAP. XXXVm, NAMES OF JUTLAND NOBILITY, 129 

not agree with the honour of a Danish lady^ and did not 
gire us a hint of it ; if she had done bo, then we are 
sure Mra Eirstine would have never come into that 
labyrinth in which she later became entangled ;" and 
*^ howy when the lady Ellen sawit became too bad, and 
that the boys and old women pointed fingers after her 
daughter in the streets, she commenced crying, and 
she would not tell us the reason why she cried." 

The fEimily of the present proprietor, Eammerjunker 
de MyliuB, kindly did me the honours of the mansion. 
Few have suffered more from neglect, devastation, and 
injudicious restoration in the former century than N0r- 
land. The towers now are all under rest<»:ation. The 
room occupied by King Christian on his visit is still 
shown — ^the riddersaaL Upon the chimney-piece, date 
1591, appear the effigies and arms of Ludvig and Ellen — 
young Ellen no longer, but Ellen fat, fair, and forty — 
overblown. She made a great mistake in not having 
had her bust taken soon after her marriage, before she 
ran to fat The arms of Ellen puzzled me much— a 
heavy-looking fish straddling over a bend in a most 
uncomfortable position; but, on referring to my dic- 
tionary, I find Marsviin signifies porpoise. There is no 
romance about the names of the early Jutland nobility. 
Ellen Porpoise I all sentiment is at an end. Names 
derived from the swine tribe too were much in vogue — 
Ume, boar ; Gait, hog ; Griis, pig. In the wars of the 
Counts, 1534, we have a noble knight. Sir Bagge Griis, 
who is killed by a tile thrown from the house-top on 
his head by Peter Bedske (bitter), of Klampgaard, the 
shoemaker. Then we have Oxe, Kalf, Daa, Dyre, 
Krabbe,TroUe ;* Ulvstand, wolfstooth (quite refreshing) ; 

* When Haryed Ulf went to fetch home his bride Mechtild, sister 
VOL. II. K 



130 N0RLUND. Cm£t.XSS& 

with many others already mentioned, all equaSjidif 
and equally illnstxions in the history of tiieir ooaMzj. 

Nobody ever bore the name of Hound or Dcg; ti^ 
the animal was looked upon as noble; and thrnm 
be accounted for by the custom that a kni^t vks 
degraded from his honours was compelled to hold a b 
arms a '^ mangy dog," while his spurs w^ro chc^pedtf 
from his heels, and his sword broken asunder. 

N0rlund suffered fearfully, in the Swedsh wi 
1658, from the visit of its friends the auxiliary Pob^ 
who tore off the leaden roof, &c. ; it will reqniie wi 
money and time to place it in order. The gardens ff 
smaU, but a wilderness of roses. Jutland is a ka^^ 
roses, though few of the more modem species haT^t 
yet penetrated ; but the old cabbage, the maiden's W 
the cinnamon, and, lastly, the Provins, sweetest of aDi 
tribe, abound in the greatest profusion. Lndy^ ^ 
Ellen sleep not in the village church, but in Fanoi. 
first entered a cottage. On asking for the key, ** Go titf 
to schoolmaster,'' was the reply as plain as ears ooi 
hear. Splendid swords I saw lying rusting, rottsf 
useless, on the mouldering coffins of their former ovnas: 
a series dating from 1500 to the end of the hias 
century, many of most exquisite workmanship. Thtf 
was another Bunic stone lying at the porch entraBce^' 
this little church — ^always been there, the 8efaooimasEff| 
told me. The way ran by the village of Bold, wte 
forest, now no more, once gave rise to the proverb^ *i» 

of Birger Jarl, some wamon, nuhing out of the wood, endeaTOaei* 
carry her off by force, their leader having disguised hiznBelf u a ik^ 
that he might more easily iVighten the guards. Harred, with «oe iM 
severed his head from his body. From that day he changed bis V 
from a wolf (Ulf) couraut to a headless devil QTrolle), adoptixig the «* 
of TroUe instead of that of Ult 



CBAB.XSX7BL AJU^BOBO. 131 

old as the trees in the forest of Bold.'* * On the heath 
sat a whole tribe of fox-cubs, quite tame ; a cheyreuil, 
too, was browsing by the way-side. 

AALBORG. 

5th July, — A day of rest at Aalborg. We yisit one of 
the three hospitals the town possesses for aged men 
and women, sixty in number — all fresh and bright in its 
annual coat of paint — large airy rooms, and plenty of 
old Jutland women, in their queer frilled caps, spinning 
and knitting away. They are fed and lodged, and receive 
a mark weekly; by way of aid for their clothes, which, 
added to the small sum they make by the sale of their 
yam and stockings, keeps them in good trim ; one of 
the old women reminded me of a bonne femme Nor- 
mande by Gerard Dow — quite a picture, with what the 
Yankees call "a wealth of silver hair." Then there 
were others, cross and querulous, as the matron ex- 
pressed herself, "as the old woman of Buxtebude."t 
The mayor of the town pointed out to me a street stiU 
called Scottingade, adjoining the site of an earlier 
Aalborg Slot, where once stood the barracks of the 
Scotch guard of the second Christian, hired from his 



* I passed by the village of Aan ; on the heath yon observe those 
lofty tumiili, the greatest a giant's sepulchre, grave of the well-known 
Gnnther. killed by his rival Kagnl, when, according to the old song — 
'*With spear and dart does Gnnther strive 
The giant Eagnl from his house to drive ; 
Bnt Kagul he drives Gunther back. 
Until his collar-bone does crack. 
Now Gnnther lies in the earth cold. 
And Svenstmp belongs to Aan so bold." 
t *« As cross and scolding as the old woman of Buxtebnde," is a 
Jutland saying. The said old woman is an historic character, the 
heroine of an ancient ballad ; she married a giant at the age of IIC. 

K 2 



132 HOBB0. Gkap.XII^ 

uncle James IIL King of Scotland, hnsliaiid d it 
Princess Margaret of Denmark.* 

Our hotel was once a house of some importanoe^Uf 
in the last century by Brigadier-Greneral HaSof-a 
officer in the English East India service he 
himself. ' As a boy he had run away to sea^ matk 
fortune in the East^ and returned to end his daysi 
honour in his native land. It was later disoorei^ 
had been a daring pirate, the terror of oor 
homewardbound Indiamen, and that the ^ 
gained fortune" was the plunder of the captmed 
sels ; the viking spirit bursting out^ only eight hi 
years too late : otherwise he might have been a 
konge, and buried in a giant's chamber, his aims ii 
ornaments around him. 



HOBR0. 

6th July. — ^We have changed our plans, and, instil 
of floating down the Liimfiorde, adjourn first to Tib 
where papers and letters await us. 



* A large number of Scots, says the historian* came at tiMt ^ 
Copenhagen. They were highly esteemed as warsmen, equal fe U 
Germans and the Swiss. This caused great jealousy: and one da?, v^ 
the Scots were assembled at a drinking-honse, the Germans rvi^ 
round the house and challenged the Scots to come out. TU "> • 
finding their adversaries too numerous, reftised; so the Gean^tfj 
fire to the house, and the Scots had to crawl up to the rooC itiw *' 
they threw down stones ; but as the fire advanced they wegeiimnlrf 
to jump down, and were all kiUed. The Germans took poanwa i 
the town and ran through the streets slaying every Soot they b& 
When the king heard of this uproar he came out and endeavooivd » 
restore order, but without eflfect, though he rode through the street « 
horseback. When he arrived at the Amagertorv, a 8cot threv bs- 
self under the king's horse, demanding protection ; bat the Gem: 
had no respect for the king, and slew the Soot under his hone'i i^ 
for which outrage he was however afterwards beheaded. 



Gbap. XXXyilL BRATTINGSBORO. 133 

It 18 not to the credit of the Yendsyssel country, but 
an old proverb declares ** At Aalborg Sund endbs law 
and right.'' Let us hope matters are mended since 
those days. We roll down a hill, and arrive at Hobr0, 
where we dine ; and the fair fiorde, with the town and 
its church, lie clustered before us. Nothing can be 
more beautiful than the site, which the foolish town 
has not known how to take advantage of; built in one 
long street scampering up the hill on the Banders road. 
The church is of modem Gothic brickwork, striped hori- 
zontally in dark and pale red — ^the effect admirable. In 
the churchyard stands a Bunic stone, the characters as 
fresh as though incised yjesterday. After half an hour's 
drive we leave the Banders road, and turn across a 
moor, through a windy country, all drily historical, but 
no remains to make it interesting.' 

BRATTINGSBORG. 

Later we arrive at Eleitrup Lake, where alone a few 
embankments tell the existence of Brattingsborg castle ; 
to take which the seventy-seven knights of the ballad 
set out from Hald by way of Viborg. A cow, tor- 
mented by the flies, fords the moat, so they follow her 
example and scale the walls. It was when riding in 
the neighbourhood of Kleitrup that Prince Inge, son of 
£ing Niels, fell from his horse and was klQed. His 
afi&ighted tutor fled, disguised as a woman, and was 
captured in a bog — ^people always got captured in the 
bogs iji Jutland — ^and was buried alive, without beU, 
book, or candle, pegged flat on his back, a h0i heaped 
up over his body. 

From here, too, eloped the Princess Ingeborg, wife of 
Prince Henrik Skatelar. She fled disguised in knight's 



184 TIELE. C&iP.XIXfl. 

attire, aj^d was caught in the streets of AaQxc: 
Prince Henrik, suspecting tmjostly his cansn isd 
Lavard, aided in his murder.* He pardoned tbepb 
cess because she was deserted by her lorer ; bat ha 
caught somebody else, and buried him, like the t& 
under a h0i. 

Well, history compels us to gaze on this UttleSi 
which has seen a great deal in its day, but of ^tii 
no traces remain : it looks very calm and quiet «i 
the white village church, built down by its water A 
glad to have done with all these excitiiig times, la^ 
beat rest 

TIELB. 

How the wind did blow as we proceeded ! umbid^ 
turned inside out ; can hardly sit in the carriage, if 
geography, too, is at fault : a new road has been opefft 
this summer, and we are all at sea till we stop at "Ok 
to look at the tomb of a ridiculous puppy of the te 
century, a certain Capitaine de Leyetzau, who H 
orders in his will that his sarcophagus (which looks Bi 
a work of Wiedevelt), all curves and allegory, sbrf 
be supported by six undraped female figures, ** in humih 
expression of his gratitude to the fair [sex for tk 
favours he had received from them in his life-dmft* 
Orders were given for the execution of the monumsi 

* The couBLDB had already come to loggerheads, at the maira^^ 
Prince Magnus in Kibe, about dress. Prince Henrik appeared dfti 
in a snit of sheepskin, while Enud (Lavard dazzled the eyes of ^ 
beholders by the splendour of his scarlet raiment cat after ihe Sub 
fashion. Henrik, boiling over with jealousy, sneeringly i^nuihi 
** Bach new-fangled stuff ill befitted a warrior, and wotild affoid ^ 
defence against the sword-cut ;" to which Ejiud replied* ** Scarlet di6 
was quite as senriceable as sheepskin, when the wearer hsd ii 
courage to defend himsell'* Prince Henrik never forgave that enfiof 
scarlet 



gbap. xxxvui. mermaid monument. 135 

when the Lutheran deigyman vowed no such impro- 
priety should enter the church, even if he appealed to 
the Sovereign (it was under Christian YL, of pious 
memoryy and Queen Madalena). '^ But they shall be 
all scriptural subjects,'^ reasons the artist, by no means 
anxious to relinquish so advantageous an order. The 
pastor was inexorabla The artist, at his wits' ends, 
proposed the ladies should have fishes' tails and become 
mermaid& This settled the matter — allegory was all 
the fashion of the 18th century — so there they are, 
with their fishy continuations looking somewhat crushed, 
supporting the black marble which contains the body 
of the captain. 

While admiring the sepulchral stone of J0rgen 
Skram, founder of the ch&teau, and his wife, a message 
was brought to us from the Kammerherrinde de LUt- 
tichau, the dame chatelaine, begging us to rest ourselves 
in the house. On entering we find old acquaintances 
of Copenhagen, and pass a pleasant evening. Cows are 
diminishing, sheep increasing in numbers, as we approach 
the moorlwids. Cows are caUed " cows " by the Jutland 
peasant, the sheep are the '' English Southdown," and 
the horses used of " Yorkshire " breed. The chateau of 
Tiele is of great antiquity, and the only one we have 
yet met with not surrounded by a moat; very pic- 
turesque it appears among the splendid lime-trees, with 
its striped wings and ancient gateway. 

On quitting Tiele we pass through the village of 
LoveL The frequent occurrence of England's holm, 
England's this, and England's that, at first puzzled me. 
The word Eng signifies meadow, and Eng-land is merely 
common parlance for meadow-land. In two hours and 
a half s time we were safely housed in the hotel at Viborg, 



136 VIBORG. Oup.iniL 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 

Pagan city of Viborg — Erik the Lovely and the haiper — T^* ^ 
Luther — First of the Longobardi — Sir Niels Bugge andfl»Cig 
of Hald — Murder of King Erik Glipping — Church of Abw*' 
Bailway engineer — King Knud^a invasion of England— M«^ 
frabbeaholm — Parson Mads the slanderer — Caps of Tm Is» 
— Mors, birthplace of Hamlet — His story as told by Ssxa 



VIBORG. 

The ancient city of Viborg held high her bead a 
Pagan times, rival to Leira and Sigtuna, for here ««» 
solemnised the chief sacrifices to Odin ; and to 
in an open plain before the town, were elected wf 
Danish sovereigns for the provinces of Jutland. 

Numerous and important were the events in hitof 
which here took place ; far too dry and tireflonw t" 
enumerate : one alone I will mention. 

It was early in the 11th century that Erik thelM' 
driven to madness by the strains of a wandefring i^ 
slew four of his ministers ; and to atone for his (3^ 
made a pilgrimage to the Holy Land. Then np ^ 
all the Jutlanders imploring him not to leave them, 8^ 
offering one third of their goods to purchase his P^ 
with heaven : they wept^ they begged on their beo^f 
knees, but of no avail. He started and died on to 
way at Cyprus, before his pilgrimage was completed. 

* Erik Eigod was one of the natural sons of Svend Estn^ 
From the time of Canute the Great tiU Yaldemar I. no diff<^ 



GtaAP. XXXDC POPISH REXICS. 137 

Yon have had enough of historic events; but when 
towns, like mortals, have seen better days, they like to 
indulge in the memory of their former grandeur, and 
talk about the grand doings of their early youth« And 
now Paganism is at an end, and Odin out of fashion. 
Thor has had a handle added, not to his name, but 
to his hammer, which is converted into a cro6& Freia 
no one cares for now, so Yiborg appears bright 
in a new light*— the very odour of sanctity. Six- 
and-twenty churches rise within her walls, convents 
and nunneries, white brothers and gray ; and such relics, 
too! All the pilgrims on their road to Bome take 
Yiborg by the way, and are lodged by the hospitable 
monks. Some, indeed, go no further, perfectly contented 
with the treasures displayed before their admiring eyes : 
and no wonder ; have they not here preserved a lock 
of the hair of the Virgin Mary? a fragment, too, of 
the five barley loaves, and, more curious still, the eye 
of one of the seven sleepers? Little use going in pil- 
grimage to Bome when such sights can be seen in our 
own native Jutland* In our cathedral, too, repose the 
bodies of our kings : first on the list Svend Grathe — a 
murderer he was. Then, too, there is Erik Glipping ; 
he lies there, and we exhibit his bones to the wonder- 
ing stranger, and display the marks of the square iron 
dubs by which he was murdered, still visible on his 
battered skull. These sovereigns honour our round- 
arched crypt, where we say masses both night and 
morning. A brave place is Yiborg in these old Papistic 
days. A real Danish saint, too, once lay interred in 



ma made between natural and legitimate children, six illegitimate 
princefl reigning one after the other in Denmark, 



13g . VIBOBO. GB&P.IQIL 

Yiboig Domkirke, canoiiized by the pope, St Eial 
by name. St. Eield was bom in Yindiog, near Baoiai 
He was a very holy man, who performed many mind^ 
and became Bishop of Yiborg. Before his sanctxiy m 
known, he was once expelled by the fraira ol \mist 
vent A few days afterwards he met one of the Bssma^ 
of the convent who had been sent ont to fetch ^mta. 
and asked leave to drink ont of his pitcher. 'Wba 
the servant handed it to him, he changed the water iss 
wine, ordering the servant to take it with his as* 
pliments to the brethren of the convent^ and to tf 
them to drink to his goodhealtlL He was inunedial^ 
called back, and received with great joy. When alff 
his death the pope had entered him in the number i 
the saints, his corpse was laid in a costly dirine aii 
suspended in golden chains under the Tanlt in lb 
chapel of the cathedral of Yiborg. This lidily gi 
shrine, called the arch of St. Eield, was always beii 
in much honour until the BeformatiDn, when ifc n 
taken down and placed behind the altcur of ik 
church, where at last it was burnt in a conflagiatk& 
But now, in the commencement of the 16th ceniaii^ 
rumours are rife of a Wittemberg monk and his aev 
heretical doctrine ; the visitors to Yiborg are few aiii 
far between. Then uprises a gray brother, Htfi 
Tausen by name, and, in defiance of all anthoEitjf 
preaches the doctrines of the Beformation, and pfo- 
claims himseK the Luther of Denmark, and Yiboi;^ 
prosperous Yiborg, the first Protestant city of the 
empire.* 

* Hans Tausen was bom in Fanen, and first entered tiie Idootartf 
Antvorskoy, and trayeUed to Wittemberg, where he resided tiro jbu& 
On liis return his new doctrines gave offence ; he was first repEiraniW 



Chap. XXXIX. THE CATHEDRAL. 139 

Bishop J0rg6n Friisy the last Bonush prelate of the 
diocese, accompanied by his halberdierSy endeayouTB to 
seize the recreant monk, but in yain ; he is defended by 
the peopla The discomfited bishop retires to his castle 
of Hald, and later quite forgot himself, for one of the 
accusations brought against him in Christian IU/b time 
was that he had been heard to say " he -wishedhimseK a 
devil to have the plaguing of King Frederic'a soul with 
hot and cold in purgatory." With the Beformation ended 
the gloriea of this ancient city; her monasteries sup- 
pressed, her churches fell soon into decay ; of the twenty- 
six which formerly graced her city, three only now remaijou 
But though Yiborg be fallen, her site none can take ficom 
her, on a hill-side oyerlooking the lake which bears her 
name. The cathedral, once her glory, built in the 12th 
century by Bishop Niels, has much suffered ; it was bomt 
nearly to the ground in the earlier part of the last 
century, was then restored in the taste of the day ; her 
fine granite arcades closed up with plaster, and her mas» 
siye stones replaced with brick ; her towers topped with 
a jockey-cap — degraded as far as degradation could be 
carried. StiU her proportions are grand, and the fine 
round-arch crypt well repays a visit. Here long after 
the Beformation were, masses no longer sung, but 
morning prayer said daily in Glipping's honour. Svend 
Grathe has long since disappeared, though they still dis- 



and then sent oat of the way into Jutland. Near Vdrnp, in Fnnen, 
were some yean aince atiU seen the xemaina of a smithy in which 
Tansen is said to have been bom. His father Tage was a smith, 
and extracted iron from the moor ; therefore he was looked upon as a 
sorcerer, and was killed by the peasants. The place is still said to be 
hannted by the wife of Tage, who is heard calling after her hnsband ; 
no one will distorb the ground, and dross and scales of iron are still 
iDond there. 



140 YIBORG. Chap, mi 

play his bones^ and Glipping's too ; his armour {d 
the time of Ohiistian IV.) still decorates the mft 
of the royal chapeL There is, howeyer, some talk oft 
general restoration, if money can be collected; bat fte 
bishop is poorly paid, scarce better than a parieb pcstor 
4000 dollars, and a house with a garden near the o* 
thedral, forms his annual stipend 

We visited the public garden, where the stone a 
which Tausen first preached " the trath " still lie& i 
is called Tausensminde, and bears a small inaciqitia 
thereon, *^ Upon this stone in 1528 Hans Tansen M 
preached in Yiborg Luther's doctrine." He becsse 
Bishop of Bibe. Ton have seen his portrait at Fie^ 
deriksborg ; a sour-faced man, like all the eady it 
formers ; he might frighten you, would never win. 

8th July. — ^Viborg has still some vitality in her 
left — is repaving her streets and smartening up a 
expectation of a railroad She possesses too a litfr 
commerce of her own. I observe the weavers dfc 
at their open windows, busily engaged at their Ioob^: 
look in at that man, his house shaded by two dipped 
limes; how neat and tidy all appears about him! 
look at his two bas-relie& in biscuit, — one of the 
present king; the other by Thorvaldsen, the Geniis 
of the Year, Observe too his flowers — ^his oleandeflr 
his carnations — ^how carefully cultivated! and, above 
all, his own healthy, well-fed appearance, and Us 
thriving family. He sings as he throws his shuttk 
at his " uld " (wool), a pile of Jersey jackets beside 
him. His next-door neighbour works on his onn 
account, and stockings, as fast as completed, are ex- 
posed for sale in his window — see, there's an odd one; 
he is occupied at the fellow this veiy moment Befive 



Chap. XXXIX> EALD, 141 

ereiy house is placed a red barrel ; very smart it looks 
too. Yiborg has a wholesome terror of fire ; and these 
little casks are kept ready filled in case of being wanted 
— ^name of the owner painted upon them to avoid con* 
fusion ; rather an antediluvian idea, but better than no 
protection at alL We step into the South parish church 
to admire its ancient altarpiece. It came first from 
Antwerp, and once adorned the far-famed church of 
Esrom Cloister ; then, after the fire, which lapped up 
the churches and houses of the city of Yiborg as a cat 
does cream, it was sent to replace the one destroyed. 
It is a wonderful production. 

We crossed the lake to Asmild Klorter, founded in 
the twelfth century by old Bishop Gunner, who died 
here in the ninety-ninth year of his age. A very small 
portrait of Hans Tausen hangs in the whitewashed 
nave, whose aisles have long since disappeared. 

HALD. 

Qth July. — ^A jirive of an hour, partly by heathy 
partly by forest, brings us to Hald. We alighted 
at a manor-house of no pretensions, built by Guld- 
borg (enemy of Caroline Matilda, and last repre- 
sentative of the H0g family). A more lovely spot 
than Hald cannot well be imagined — her purple 
waters, and the opposite banks o'erhung with luxu- 
riant beeches; the foundations of her ancient castle 
rising abruptly on the little island, now hardly discon- 
nected from the mainland, for the waters of the lake 
are low. It was from the castle of Hald that, in early 
times, when a dreadful famine oppressed the land, and 
com was scarce, Aage and Ebbe, sons of King Snie, 
first of the Longobardi, whose h0i you may see in ^sti 



142 HALD. CiLAY.Iim 

Snede parish, accompanied by a band of waniois as 
forth from their ancestral abode to seek fiesh faitiBfli 
and new conquests in a sunnier clime. 

In the days of Yaldemar Atterdag the fortes d 
Hald held out against the sovereign, who besieged i 
in yain for many months. You may still disoeni tk 
rampart constructed by the enemy on the lake's sik' 
The king, discomfited, retreated to Odense, and thas 
summoned its lord, Sir Niels Bugge, to arran^ -ik 
matter by compromise. Sir Niels departs, oon&bif 
in the honour of his sovereign* He bids farewdl ts 
his ch&teau-fort and Hald S0 for ever ; for on his reto 
from the meetng, at a village not far from Middelfct 
in the island of Funen, he was slain by a band of fi^ 
men, who were supposed to have acted at the instigatiBi 
of the king. Yaldemar, however, affected much ^ 
tuous wrath at this foul murder ; taxed the inK^J^Hai-j; 



of the place ; and to this very day the peasants of ISir 
delfart pay a taX to the Grovemment, entitled "Bugge 
mande bod." 

Queen Margaret, who, like Bichelieu, hated castks 
and a poweriul nobility, gave over Hald to the Bkkp 
of Yiborg, on condition they should destroy the fortresi 
The bishops accepted the present, but preserved i 
intact; it was near head-quarters, and found cat 
venient, particularly in Hans Tausen's time, for hat 



* The siege had lasted for seyeral months, and Bugge was alna^ 
reduced to famine; one cow alone remained of all his stock. I^ 
deceive, however, the enemy as to his resources, he caused the tjsai 
to he dothod each morning in the skins of her Jong since ^ugbtend 
sisterhood, and driven along the ramparts in sight of the enenif- 
hlack cows, white oows, hrindled, and streak-dnn — one after anotfe? 
" Why, with such a provision,'* exclaimed the king, ** they^l hold oS 
for ever." So he raised the siege. 



. CHAP. XXXCL FINDERUP. 143 

gallaiit old J0rgen Friis, in 1536^ intrenching himself, 
defended his castle to the last against his Yiborgian 
flock, who besieged him ; they got the best of it 
though, and imprisoned the gallant church militant in 
Ids own tower. Hald then f eU to the Crown ; afterwards 
Ouldboi^ dwelt there, and built the present mansion — 
tigly, and now out of repair. We walked to the pretty 
hamlet of Bakke, all streamlets and water-wheels, and, 
Btriding through the long grass, scaled the mound where 
once stood the earlier castle, surrounded by a double 
trench ; the site of the second castle rises weU from the 
lake, and must have frowned imposing upon its waters. 
Ton may drive round by the other side, if you like ; it 
will repay your trouble. 

FINDEBUP. 
We took Einderup on our way home merely as a 
change — ^Finderup, where Glipping was, as you already 
know, basely murdered by Marsk Stig and other Danish 
nobles. It was one dark November night — the eve, they 
Bay, of St. Cecilia (1286) — ^fatigued after a hard day's 
chace, he slept soundly in a farmhouse before the fire ; 
his traitor page Bane* — ^he whom we have seen eze- 
.cuted elsewhere, under the eyes of justly revengeful 
Agnes herself — ^introduces the assassins to the chamber 
of his lord. Fifty-six blows from heavy square iron dubs 
rain down upon the body of the unlucky sovereign, and 
all is over. The assassins fly the vengeance of the 
Church and his successor, to meet later the punish- 
ment awarded to their crimes. We passed two days 



* Bane was a Hyide, bat of a bad stock ; own sister's son to Axch- 
bifihop Jens Qrond, most torbulent of prelates. 



144 nNDERUP. CHAP.XnO. 

since the manor of S0dal, where Bane's mansionf Stajd- 
gaard, once stood— confiscated and razed to the gioioMl 
by order of Queen Agnes. 

Finderup is a poor Tillage on a desert heath : blig^ 
by the foul murder committed there against *^ the Lad's 
anointed," it has never thrived* In duty bormd i« 
entered the miserable church raised over the ^ 
where in early days masses were daily and nightljsaii; 
in memory of the event What keys ! the little bcf 
can hardly bear their weight It's a miserable place, cob* 
taining a small, narrow, white tablet to Guldborg, ^ 
a few more. Some English names are among tiictt 
interred within the chapel — ^Knapps, L0veLB^ and Kj«i^ 
which latter answers to Kier or Eerr, so here pro- 
nounced. To-day too we are not far removed from tie 
village of Eyde ; and Vinkel, with its little S0, is m* 
very distant In the cemetery, above a maiden's ga^ 
a white rose bloomed. 

In the evening we drive with the Amtman,* Bait» 
le Breton, and his family, to the village church of T^^ 
drup, the earliest Christian edifice in all Jutland-' 
round arch with a soup^on Byzantine — ^built by Aifr 
carius himself, who here founded a colony of early 
Christians, English and German mixed; for a toe 
afterwards the colonists spoke the " plat " or bad Genntf 
of Holstein. In the lake below the early ChristiaDi 
were baptized. 

A party of Sir Morton Peto's men are in the hold 
They arrived one by one this evening after a week' 

* The office of Amtman answers to that of Pz^fet in France ^ 
the days of absolutism it was given to the grooms of the chamber wb^ 
they married ; now the appointments are fiUed up by men who w>^ 
stand their duties and perform them. 



Chap. XXXIX. SKIVE. I45 

hard work, surveying the land for the proposed railway 

— a pleasant, gentlemanlike set of men; they came 

tumbling in, like Macbeth's flitches, each giving an 

account of his spiritings, from east, north, south, and 

west : one had passed his time among the sands ; a 

second had sounded the never-ending moses, forty*five 

feet deep here, and there no bottom to be found; 

a third has passed his week pleasantly enough on the 

wild moor among the sweet thyme and heather under 

canvas — he is young, and knows not rheumatism ; the 

elder ones laugh — ^he '11 soon get tired of that work. 

One arrives irom Portugal, another from Canada : they 

like the profession ; they see the world ; and are away, 

removed from its conventionalities. 

SKIVE. 

Monday y llth July. — A three hours' journey across 
a moorland brings us to Skive, passing on our way 
the small village of Fiskbaek— fish rivulet — which here 
runs into the Liimfiorde : no scarcity of these streams 
in Jutland ; the whole country is intersected with them. 
The village, small as it is, boasts a certain historic 
notoriety ; and its little church, perched on an emi- 
nence, no doubt to avoid what once was water, with a 
grey slate turban to its towers, rising up into a point 
like a cock's feather all on end. It was from this 
pert little village that, in the year 1085, Knud the 
Holy assembled an immense fleet preparatory to his 
descent upon England, his revolted colony. He 
passed with his fleet through the Agger Canal, lately 
reopened; then opr0red the Vendel men, and he 
had to quell by bribes their insurrection ; meanwhile, 
his Jutland nobles, tired of delay, and idle outside 

VOL. 11. L 



146 SKIVE. CaAP.XXm. 

the Liimfiorde, came to loggerheads — some retired 
in disgust, and the fleet dispersed.* On crossing tlffi 
valley a toll is exacted ; a relic of the ancient fem, 
long since disused. 

Skive, like its neighbour village, stands on a hill 
with a sea of verdant prairies at its feet — prairies wate«l 
by a fresh-running bsek, like all the streams of tb 
country, alive with trout. There is nothing exciting i 
to-day's drive, but it is calm and very English. A vai 
extent of heath has been lately planted with yonifi 
pine-trees. Jutland has become too deboise ; the crop^ 
owing to the constant drought, look fearful ; there is a* 
doubt that this drought is increased by the wantofi 
destniction of the forests — evaporation augments, sd 
the streams and lakes suffer in consequence. 

We walk through the woods to Krabbesholm. Ik 
ch&teau is dilapidated, but unspoiled by modem reslon- 
tions. Floriated crosses and shields, once no doubt ba^ 
ing the arms of its founders, still ornament the «^ 
From Field-Marshal Sir Niels H0g — by the marriage of 
his daughter in the reign of King John — a Banner wi(b' 
— it passed to the Krabbes, who named it Krabbeshobi 
Many old places might be restored, but to touch a brick 
of Krabbesholm would be downright sacrilege : I wooU 



♦ William the Conqueror sent gold to Ohif Hunger, one of tk 
fourteen brotherH of King Knnd the Holy ; and Oluf promised tohio^^ 
the kino? from putting into execution his threatened descent «P^ 
England. He it was who excited the riot of the Y todel men ; 9S^ 
when the king went to quell the disorder, was left in charge d ^ 
Liimfiorde fleet. He persuaded the Jutlanders they would lose th0^ 
harvest, and mode them run away ; the warriors from the islands aloar 
remained, and were dismissed. The Vendsyssel men refused top*! 
the tenths exacted to the clergy, so the king sent his officers to bar* 
the peasants. The people now rose in open revolt. The king ^ 
to Snogh^i, and thence passed over to Funon, where he was eaauaaa^ 



Chap. XXXIX. - FOVLUM. 147 

leave \i% court unswept, the peasant's cart upturned 
where it is, never put away the milk-pans, and as for 
that old Jutland peasant-woman, turn her at once, like 
Lot's wife, into a pillar of salt ; the ducks and the geese, 
the ever-raging watch-dogs tearing like mad round 
their kennels; the moat, part green duckweed, the 
remnant a bed of raspberries, should all remain. Look 
at the horse-chesnuts and the limes — what glorious 
timber! — how well they tone down in the evening's 
light the colour of the buildings ! A very prim old 
lady in gray gown and snow-white cap, fit ch&telaine 
for such a mansion, invites us to the garden. It 
is all avenues; a fine green turf, like that of a 
bishop's in some cathedral town in England; fine 
groups of limes, fish-stews, and flower-beds — not too 
many : and only for one moment stay and gaze at the 
old house — how well it covers up its faded charms ! 
leaving only its best features, that fine old octagonal 
tower and quaint Gothic gable, peeping out from 
beneath their framework — ^that old horse-chesnut 

FOVLUM. 

Vlih, — Our steamer starts at six. Krabbesholm looks 
still asleep, and the bathing-cabins damp and unin- 
viting ; our deck, too, is none of the cleanest, and the 
brass compass appears as though it had been up all 
night, dull and besmeared. 

Skive fiorde is narrow, and her banks brown, varied 
occasioncJly by patches of cultivation and a succession 
of white structures. If her ancient forests still existed, 
it would be beautiful, for the ground undulates. The 
morning is gray and slightly overcast — best colouring 
for the scene before us. The lake of Hald, with its 

L 2 



148 FOVLUM. CBAP.Iim 

rich luxuriant beech woods and its deep blue vata*. 
shone glorious in the bright mid-day; but cliff iBd 
moor, when barren, tell best in early morn. We no". 
after a wide opening, again thread our way throogk i 
narrow passage. Here the cliffs are green, ckiW 
>vith soft thymy turf, such as the sheep love to brow 
upon. We pass Dolby and then Lyby, where, in 13i^ 
a council was held by the priest-ridden nobilitT i 
Jutland, at which they agreed unanimously to present 
intact the rights of the clergy as a sure preserrati»? 
against murrain, fire, plague, and sudden dealh. 0^ 
first stoppage is at Sundspve. A long narrow tongw^^ 
land runs out to sea ; a carriage laden with sometiii? 
awaits our arrival ; they hoist the red-cross flag;, ^ 
we receive a Jutland farmer, ten sacks of wheat, ii^ 
pass on. The sun's rays, as though on purpose, ^ 
denly light up that village church to the right, dazzte 
in new-bom whitewash — that is Fovlum church, cat 
ceming which there is a tale to tell — curious, as iD'^ 
trative of the Jutland jurisprudence of the middle age& 
It was in the days of King Frederic 11. that a Luth^ 
parson, Doctor Mads by name, who, though he W 
reformed his religion, had quite forgotten to extend utf 
same advantages to the licence of his tongue, accosw 
from his pulpit Sir J0rgen Lykke, of Bondemp ^ 
destroying a church, and building himself a mani® 
with the materials— nothing extraordinary, coudden^ 
the days of cliurch spoliation in which he lived ; buiBB- 
fortunately for Dr. Mads, it was false, as the sequel pw^ 
The knight, indignant at the accusation, summoned t» 
scandalous parson for calumny before Bishop Jueb« 
Viborg. The priest is pronounced guilty, and condeou^ 
to suffer the punishment awarded by liie law. 



CuAP. XXXIX. ISLAND OF FUUR. ^ 149 

Now in Jutland there existed in those days an excel- 
lent law against scandal-mongers— one which might 
well be introduced into the stiU embryo Code Victoria 
in England — "That the individual found guilty of a 
calumny should himself undergo the punishment awarded 
to the crime of which he accused his neighbour." The 
punishment allotted to him who destroyed a church was 
death. So poor imprudent Parson Mads was condemned, 
underwent his sentence, and lies buried, hea4 severed 
from his shoulders, in the parish churchyard of Fovlum. 
This occurred in the year 1566. 

ISLAND OF FUUR. 

We are nearing the island of Fuur, and now pass 
between the straits ; green are its banks like an emerald 
— a village, a church, and a few boats. The women of 
Fuur are remarkable for their marriage head-dress— a 
" bonnet mirabolant," all beads and small feathers, 
more like the South Sea Islanders than the matter-of-fact 
inhabitants of the Liimfiorde. You may see one pre- 
served, together with the crown of the bride, in the 
Musee Scandinave of Copenhagen. 

If there be nothing absolutely to astonish in our sail 
of to-day, you will at least be struck by the never- 
ending variety of islands here, promontories there, con- 
tinents looking down on them from behind quite 
dignified. Turning and twisting in every direction, a 
church or a manor attracts your eye. You pass on : 
the facsimile appears iQ another direction ; why, it's all 
the same — you've only been spinning round like a tee- 
totum. Depend upon it, there is a great deal of beauty 
in a low country, if people will only look at it. 



loO MOBS. CaiP.ISS 

ISLAND OF MORS. 

We approach the idand of Mors — iis little c^ 
Nyki0bing is already in sight — ^tall church, sometlai 
pretentious ; harbour, shipping, and red-roofed hois^ 
and the indispensable skov at one side. Boat stopw 
half an hour, so we disembark and walk about r> 
strand is heaped with flounders, and barges unloadingtsr 
too, which leads you to imagine Mors to be a dryisli&i^ 
Its church is a good specimen of brickwork, with thirtj 
five little niches, once populated by saints, in its t^ 
side gables — whitewashed, and the granite ereu pws^ 
gray. It was once the church of Dueholm Kl<^ 
with whose monks the inhabitants were ever at lo^ 
heads. These northern churches have always one *" 
vantage over others of more common architecture c 
the fine vaulting of their roofs. We have just time^ 
take a turn through the town — horrid pavement, o» 
clean ; each window a conservatory — camellias thebp 
fashion; whenever a household utensil is cracked, ▼b*'^ 
ever may have been its use, it receives back rank^* 
flower-pot. Mulberries too grow here, as standards, is0- 
than they do at AaTborg. 

The Morsagers were not celebrated for their braTerj- 
if you credit the old ballad on the Vendel boeis' J^^^ 
against Christopher the Bavarian, in which Tomebtf^ 
lost his head— a ballad which the Vendel meD, ^^ 



♦ Tage Heiiirich Tomckranz - a very sensible name to Bppif ^ 
illegitimate offbpring, " Crown of Thorns "—is supposed to bawt^ 
a natural son of a Bosenkrantz, and was brought up at the ^^^^ 
of Hevringsholm. The family later flourished at By, near S^*^ 
The kst abbot of Vidskpl, vitffi shola, was of this family, ^^'"^^^{ 
out in the year 1652 ; the last rormber having lived to be up^ 
a hundred years of age. 



)W8ri''^ 



CuAr. XXXIX. BIKTHPLACE OF HAMLET. 161 

at this present day, lose no opportunity of singing and 
throwing into the fac^s of the descendants of their 
pusillanimous neighbours : — 

" First, then, they ran, the Morsagers, 
And next the traitors of Thy. 
After them stood the Vendel men ; 
But they disdain'd to fly." 

Names of Morsagers written up here, there, and every- 
where, are Hort, Portman, Brinckmann. 

We coast along in the open sea, till we turn straight 
between two promontories of land, one of which runs, 
high and commanding, out to sea — the very site for 
a feudal castle. Two spacious old gabled houses — 
once a mill, now a depot for coal — stand by the strand 
side. This is Feggeklit, sacred in the eyes of all 
Englishmen as the birthplace of our Shakespeare's 
Hamlet — Amleth, as he is called in Denmark. It 




Feggeklit, Islutidul Munt. 



was at Feggeklit, in the island of Mors, in the very, 
early ages, dwelt two brothers, smaa konges— Haarde- 



152 MORS. oup.xnil 

vendel, father of Hamlet, and his brotiier Fenga h 
many years they lived in amity, resting alternately, «i 
for the space of three years, while the other went dtj 
pirate expedition. When Fengo witnessed his broi* 
return laden with spoils, and the joy of his wife Gento 
Fengo's heart burned with jealousy ; he detenni» 
to remain at home, and get possession not only of I* 
brother's wealth, but alao of his wife. Pretending 
Geruthe is ill treated by her husband, Fengo days n 
brother. After their marriage Amleth, fearing for 
life, feigns madness. He rolls about in the muiin 
replies in a ridiculous manner to the questions pat i»| 
him. The king, suspicious, endeavours by means of 
woman's art to draw the truth from him. Amleth,* 
liis guard, that day indulges in unheard-of vagan* 
He rides out in the forest with his face towards tb 
horse's tail, pretends to mistake a wolf for a hone,** 
wishes Fengo had many such chargers. Now cobs 
the story of Polonius. Fengo absents himself^ and gi^ 
orders to a confidant to watch the movements of Amlett. 
and conceal himself in the room when he is alone wi4 
his mother. Amleth, who has his wits about him, ^^ 
entering into conversation with his mother, runs, as«* 
his habit, round the room, flapping his arms and crow- 
ing like a cock. Jumping on a heap of straw (in te 
Majesty's bed-room 1), he feels something underneath 
runs his sword through, and withdraws the dead bodya 
the spy. He cuts it into pieces, boils it, and gives i 
to the pigs. Then turning to his mother, who ^ 
weeping over his madness, he addresses her the nw* 
violent reproaches : " If you will grieve, weep not otc 
my madness, but over your own shame and dishonour. 
Fengo, after the disappearance of his counsellor, feel 



Ohap. XXXIX. STORY OF HAMLET. 153 

more anxious than ever to make an end of his stepson. 
He then sends him to England ; and here Shakespeare 
lias followed the true story. Amleth adds to the in- 
structions for the death of his companions, that the King 
of England is to give him his daughter in marriage. 
Amleth is still very queer ; he refuses to eat or drink 
at the English king's table. On inquiring, he replies 
lie will not touch food because " the bread savours of 
blood, the beer of iron, and the lard of dead men's 
carrion : " he adds also (very ill-bred), that the king 
has eyes like a bondsman, and that the queen in three 
things behaved herself like a servant-maid. They only 
regard him as mad ; but after a sharp observation the 
king discovers Amleth was right in his supposition as 
regards the food : for the com came from a field where 
a battle had taken place ; the pigs had eaten a dead 
man's carrion ; and in the fountain of the brewer were 
discovered several rusty swords. The English king now 
becomes uneasy, and, taking his mother to task, forces 
her to own that a bondsman was his father. Later 
Amleth declares that (shocking bad manners) the 
queen is not of higher origin herself: for, first, she hides 
her hetwi in her cloak ; secondly, in walking she lifts up 
her kirtle under the girdle ; and, thirdly, after eating 
she picks her teeth with a fish-bone — ^all decided proofs 
of low birth ; " but perhaps," he added by way of a 
sop, " her mother was a prisoner of war, which fully 
accounts for her low habits." The king (a most un- 
dutiful ' son) praises his wisdom, and gives him his 
daughter in marriage. Amleth now demands recom- 
pense for the death of his companions, and receives 
a considerable sum of gold, which he melts down into 
two hollow sticks; and, after a year's absence, begs 



154 MORS. Chap.SDI 

to return to Jutland on " important family affairs." On 
his arrival he is asked after his two companions: ""Bei^ 
they are," he replied, exhibiting his two sticks. He 
answer is received with shouts of derision, and ihejlfii 
on him as mad as ever. 

On his arrival at the palace of King Fengo, ate^ 
on the lake hard by, he found the family in full caiws^ 
a wake subsequent to the celebration of his own fimefi- 
Disguised, he joins the party, drugs the liqnor of tk 
carousers, and, when they are all intoxicated, first s^ 
fire to the house, rushes to the room where Fengo to 
asleep, awakening him with these words : " Fen; o I J* 
good men are burning to ashes ; and here is ^^^^ 
who will revenge the death of his father!" He tto 
slays him. One hundred and fifty years since Fa?- 
grave was opened and an iron sword taken from it ; ^ 
became of it none can telL 

Such, according to Saxo Grammaticus and the eaife 
sagas, is the story of Amleth, Prince of J^tlaw 
he will again turn up later. A flock of sheep app*' 
out at sea. They have waded out to a little '^ 
from Feggeklit and are caught by the waves. See.K'' 
they stand up to their knees in the water, awaitir?'^ 
the tide permits them to return. 



Chap. XL. THYLAND. 156 



CHAPTER XL. 

County of Thy — SuperstitionB concerning tombs — Plague of aand ~ 
Wicked Queen of England — Draining the Sj0rring lake — The 
pedlar and the geese — Anne Boleyn — The Liimfiorde — Story of 
Liden Eirstcn — Sale of a wreck — Old Abellona and her amber 
beads — Loss of life off this coast. 



THYLAND. 

We now turn a point, and the little to^^n of Thisted, 
^ith its church and harbour, appears quite unexpectedly : 
we are soon landed and lodged in Hotel Liimfiorde. 

Thisted is in no way remarkable. It seems a most 
creditable pleasant-looking town, lately built, with a 
forest adjoining, planted by the inhabitants themselves 
for their own recreation, connected with which is a nursery 
of young trees, which are given gratis to the peasants 
who desire to plant their farms ; but the taste is not in 
them, and it is only by inculcating the ideas in the 
schools they can hope for improvement With so much 
waste land in Jutland, it is a pity not to employ it to 
some good purpose, and the people might as well grow 
their own timber as draw their supplies from Norway or 
Sweden. We passed our evening at the house of Baron 
Rosenkrantz, the amtman, where we again met a friend 
of Eosenholm, who has lately purchased an estate in 
the neighbourhood of tlie Sj0rring lake. 

The county of Thy is most rich in antiquities of 
all sorts. They are formed of black basaltic granite, 
which takes a high polish and appears to be fashioned 
with greater sharpness than those of the other materials. 



156 SJ0RRING. Cam. a. 

The peasants have a superstition against distuife 
the ancient cemeteries, so that, unless a new road » 
about to be made, or the plough passes over some andai 
battle-field, they yet remain undisturbed. M. de Iteei- 
krantz related to me a story of an 01and peasant <^ 
whose farm stands a lofty tumulus, under which, accoiti- 
ing to tradition, lies concealed a mighty treasure. Thi 
treasure may be used for the benefit of the proprietor 
of the farm when he shall be really in want of breti 
Some years since the possessor of the farm, incrednloB 
caused a search to be made, and opened the bano^- 
A few days afterwards his house, as well as his fam- 
buildings, were totally destroyed by fire. The boec 
looked upon this misfortune as a judgment upon tk 
perpetrator of the crime, and from that day to this tie 
tumulus remains undisturbed. 

A curious incident occurred, a few years since, on tk 
island of Oxholm. A man, in endeavouring to cto« 
the morass, sank deep into the mud. On withdn*- 
ing, after some diflSculty, his leg, he felt somethin? 
hanging attached to it. At first he imagined it to be 
a snake ; but soon discovered it to be a massive neck- 
ring of solid gold, for which, when forwarded to C<^ 
hagen, where it may now be seen, he received the ana 
of 500 dollars as its full value. 



SJ0RRING. 

12th July. — M. de Rosenkrantz and his amiable famJr 
have kindly arranged an excursion for us — some on 
horseback, others in the carriage — to visit the lake and 
the once celebrated castle. We started this aftem(»n 
at four o'clock, a large party — three carriage*loads awl 



CUAP. XL. VILLAGE CHURCHES. 157 

four equestrians — for the Lake of Sj0mng, distant four 
English miles from Thisted. We paused for a few 
minutes at a tomb placed in the churchyard, that of 
some Irish bishop and his wife wrecked oflF the coast. It 
consists of four granite headstones inscribed with fan- 
tastic crosses, hearts, and other emblems ; in the centre 
lies a flat gravestone ; a triangular block of granite 
placed between each of the headstones, on one of which 
is represented the figure of a prelate, with mitre on 
head and crozier in hand ; on the corresponding side 
the figure of a woman. 

The granite of the village churches of Thy is most 
admirably worked: they are all now towerless — long 
since blown down — and nothing more than one fine 
round-arch doorway here remains. In former days, 
when a church was built, each peasant brought a stone, 
ready cut and carved according to a given measure, as 
his contribution towards the building. Here lie many 
of th6se early timber tombs, but of a more primitive 
character, denuded of their bark; one carved with 
inscriptions and quaint devices. 

We now walked up to the height at the further end 
of the lake, where, surrounded by a lofty vaUum and h 
moat having egress to the water, stood the celebrated 
wooden castle of King Knud the Holy.* 

The Lake of Sj0rring, in those early days, opened 
into the North Sea, of which it was then a fiorde : a 
sort of Jutland Brest, the harbour of the Northern fleet. 



♦ From this castle on tho island of Sj0rring lake eloped the queen 
of King Niels, " Ulfheld ;" concerning whose adventure you may read 
a biillad of some two hundred stanzas. She married later the Swedisli 
King Sverker, and was mother of King Charles of Sweden— making 
the confusion of history only still greater. 



158 SJ0RRING. Chap. XL. 

It is blocked up at the northern end by a succession of 
sandbanks — bakkers ; and where do you think all this 
sand came from ? From England — so say the men of 
Thy — for in ancient days there lived a wicked Queen 
of England, who, offended at the conduct of some 
Danish king, whom she loved in vain, from pure revenge 
cut open the " canal '* — she worked for seven years with 
seven thousand men — which now separates France firom 
her dominions, let in the waters of the Atlantic,* which 
came foaming, raging, rolling, bringing sand and de- 
struction, stopping up the harbour and ruining the most 
fertile fields along the coast of West and North Jutland ; 
but her revenge bore its own punishment, for, when the 
sluices opened, she approached too near, and was borne 
away by the overwhelming force of the raging waters. 
" Never mind," say they ; " our turn will come in time ; 
for a prophecy exists that the * revolted Danish colony * 
of England will again be some day recovered by a 
Danish king." 

There are many small islands scattered among the 
waters of the Sj0rring lake, where sea*fowl abounds 
in endless variety.t Here, too, the sea eagle builds her 
nest; you could scarcely distinguish her eggs from 
those of a barn-door fowl. The lake swarms with wild 
fowl, and the surrounding country with partridges, 
snipes, woodcocks, and game of all kinds. 

Many years since, a pedlar passing near this lake was 
attacked by two robbers. He beheld a flock of wild 
geese flying along above his head, and cried, " K there 

* The whole west coast of Jutlaud was inxmdatod a.d. 1717, on 
Ghrihtmas eve ; and 1720, on new-year eve. 

t In addition to the common sorts, too numerous to mention, arc the 
Larus ridihundus. Sterna caiitiaca, Anglica, 8cc 



Chap. XL. THE PEDLAR AND THE GEESE. 159 

id no oae else to be a witness of my death, I sammon the 
birds of our Lord to give evidence/* A few minutes 
after he expired. Years passed away ; nobody had got 
on the track of the evU-doera. One Sunday, when 
people were assembled in a churchyard waiting for the 
parson, a flock of wild geese flew screaming over their . 
heads, at which a Holstein horse-dealer said to his com- 
rade, " Behold the witnesses of the pedlar ! " These 
words drew attention upon the horse-dealer, and when 
they asked him what he meant he lost his spirits, and 
at last confessed that he and his comrade were the 
murderers of the pedlar. Such witness bear the birds 
of our Lord. 

In a neighbouring cemetery lie interred the bodies 
of a Lieutenant (?) Harboard and eight English seamen, 
lost in the " Polyphemus," Captain Vaughan, wrecked 
off the coast some few years since ; and farther removed 
among the sand is the ruined church of Torup, whose 
congregation have long since disappeared, driven away 
by the spasmodic attacks of flying sand, sent of course 
from England. There once existed a Bunic stone, raised 
to the memory of " Tuko, the Englishman, who here 
was slain by the Viking Isvard." 

On another small island — ^iland, they here call it — ^in 
the centre of this lake once stood the fortress which 
guarded its entrance. No wonder at the men of Thy 
feeling vicious against the English queen who by her 
machinations blocked up and ruined so fair a harbour. 

We turn to the right to visit the canal, to be com- 
pleted next spring. The draining of this lake is under- 
taken by Captain Jagd, a Danish officer from the 
Isle of Funen. These Jutland lakes are, as before 
said, strung together like birds' eggs on a thread. A 



160 s SJ0RRING. Cbap.XL, 

canal is cut to the nearest lake, turning, at the same 
time, the course of the beck or rivulet, by which a 
fall of from fifteen to twenty feet is gained ; the sluices 
once opened, the drainage is soon effected Captain 
Jagd has established himself at a mill adjoining, super- 
intending the hundred workmen under his orders. 
Twenty feet of sand had to be removed before they 
came to the natural clay. I could not help smiling as I 
looked around on the " fixings " of the cottage. An 
English patent stove, purchased from the wreck of the 
" Polyphemus ;" an oil painting of some English ruined 
abbey, from the " North Sea " steamer lately stranded off 
the coast ; splendid shutters, carved and even gilt, from 
some Eussian brig, also gone down. Then there was 
crockery from vessels laden with oranges and 'iron. 
No wonder th^ " customs " of the North of Jutland are 
not productive. The sea herself " provides " for the 
wants of the inhabitants. 

The ancient law of flotsum and jetsum has long since 
passed away. The Grovemment takes possession of all 
unrecognised waifs and strays : if claimed, they are sold for 
the benefit of the owners — a wise provision in a country 
where the sea proves too great a temptation to human 
weakness. In ancient days, before the repeal of this 
old law, not only did our own Cornish habit of wrecking 
prevail, but murderers cast the bodies of their victims 
into the sea, to be washed up again on the strand; 
thus proving their right to the possession of the property 
discovered on the person of the corpse. 

On our ride home we ascended a kjeempe h0i (giant's 
chamber), once the scene of some fearful battle. As far as 
the eye can extend, a sea of barrows rise like bubbles on a 
pot of boiling water. There is no doubt that this county 



Chap. XL. ANCIEOT MANORS. 161 

of Thy has, of old, been the scene of many a bloody con- 
flict, as well as long one of the richest and most thickly- 
populated parts of the kingdom* Of the numerous 
ancient manors — ^Duel, yaestermark, Alstrup, Skovsted, 
and Botb0l — ^mentioned in King Valdemar II/s Jorde- 
bog — a sort of Danish Domesday — ^he measured out the 
land under his own inspection, settled the boundeuies 
himself^ leaving nothing to his underlings-^a practical 
man was Yaldemar the Victorious — all have long since 
passed away ; many are now covered by some twenty 
feet of sand. Most of the villages in these parts bear 
names having allusion to the chace, showing that the 
country was at some period covered with extensive forests, 
as letters preserved in the archives from the various 
sovereigns who hunted there still attest The village 
near the h0i on which we are now standing — a splendid 
giant's chamber— destroyed some thirty years since, 
is named Hundborg, Hound Castle ; another adjoining, 
Wolfen something. 

No antiquities have as yet been disinterred during 
the excavation of the canal ; but this draining of the 
^ lake is looked forw6ird to by antiquaries as that of a 
Jutland Tiber, and marvels are expected as the results 
of the undertaking. The ilex would grow on the sand- 
dunes. It stands the climate here in Denmark, and 
rather enjoys a sandy soil. You may wade knee-deep 
among forests of this tree on the most exposed coasts 
of La Vendee and in the islands off the coast of Brittany. 
No tree resists the wind more effectually, as we ourselves 
know in England. The tamarisk too might be employed 
with advantage for the binding of the sand-heaps. 



VOL. II. 



162 ,VESTERVIG. Chap. XL. 

VESTERVIG. 

July 13^A. — We start from Thisted in the afternoon. 
The Liimfiorde is to-day agitated like a wide sea ; the 
cliffs of the island of Mors opposite are imposing in 
their height. Our road runs along the banks — a fair 
extent of mysterious country — all tombs, tombs — ^an 
occasional peep at a lake, backed by sand-dunes ; white 
churches rising here and there, as though to hallow 
by their presence the sepulchres of the Pagans. 

Our harness breaks. Scarlet postilion dofis his hat, 
and prays, "Lend os a scizzorsl" which request is 
granted, and the damage is soon arranged. Pronim- 
ciation and spelling in these parts do not, as in Eng- 
land, run together side by side. A manor near our 
course, marked on the map as Todb0l, is by the pea- 
santry called Tudorb0l; rfnd stranger still, in the 
village of Snedsted there dwells at this moment an aged 
woman who rejoices in the appellation of Anna Boleyn 
— Swollen Anna. But we arrive at the^illage of Ves- 
tervig, stop the carriage at the lich-gate of the cloister- 
church, and enter the moorland cemetery. The church 
— date 1100 a.d. — was a rich foundation in bygone 
days, its tower a sea-mark to the in-bound vessels. It is 
dedicated to St. Th0ger, a sanctity unknown in more 
southern climes, domestic chaplain to St. Ola^ whose 
body, you may remember, after a lapse of years, was 
discovered quite fresh and pure, smelling of nothing but 
the odour of sanctity, on which account he later received 
saintly honour: in the exuberance of their piety the 
Northmen tucked in his chaplain Th0ger along with 
him into the canonization. Vestervig church is of solid 
granite; granite columns and round arches support 



Chap. XL. LIDEN KIRSTEN'S GRAVE. 163 

the aisles, all most tastefully whitewashed On entering 
the churchyard, to the right you will observe a long 




Liden KinteD's Grave. 

narrow sepulchral stone, hewn out of solid granite. 

Mark, it is broken towards the centre, and with a little 

imagination you may descry the print of a horse's shoe. 

The inscription, " Habet tumulus cum fratre sororem," 

is still pointed out by those who from long habit know 

where to find it. On the stone, some twelve feet long, 

are engrayed two crosses; a headstone at each end. 

Two bodies sleep calmly within — their names known 

to every peasant in Denmark, old and young, rich and 

poor. All men have read and many wept over the sad 

story of Liden Eirsten and her lover Prince Boris. 

I cannot do better than at once give you a resume 

from the ballad, — a ballad sung in all the dialects of 

the North, in Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Iceland, and 

the Fai-oe Isles, in the Gaelic of the Orkneys; and 

again, in a different form, it appears in the Scotch under 

the title of * Sweet Willie.' * We will now commence 

our story : — 

•* King Valdemar and Sofie,t they sat before the board, 
Under the roses two. 
They * snackedt '—conversed together — full many a word." 



* •• She hadna weU gane thro' the reel, nor yet well on the green, 
Till she fell down at Willie's feet, as cauld as any stane." 
Again: — 
" The tane was bnried in Mary's Kirk, tlie tither in Mary's Qnier. 

Out of the tane there grew a birk, and of the tither a brier." 
t Sofle, queen of Valdemar the Great, was daughter of Duke Vlu- 

M 2 



164 VESTERVIG. Chap. XL. 

"Hear, oh, my king! lord and master mine. Will 
you give my brother Prince Boris little Eirsten to 
wife ? " " That shall never be ! Liden Eirsten, she is 
a noble maid, and Boris but a stable-boy. Never 
will I give my dear sister to a horse-thief! " * 

Sofie now meditates revenge in her heart Val- 
demar leaves, with his warriors, to fight against the 
heathen of Eugen, and Sofie, in conjunction with 
the " horse-thief," rules the land Sofie says tp 
her squires twain, "Bid Prince Boris come here to 
me ;" and she orders him to betray little BSrsten. 
Boris refuses : " Never will I do so great a sin ! " for 
he says it will cost him his life. Three months elapse* 
Again Sofie reproaches her brother, aad finally 
wounds his vanity by ordering him to ** cast the 
Eunes," as he possessed of himself no power over Liden 
Kirsten. 

The expression of " casting the Eunes '* requires some 
explanation. In early times there existed a supersti- 
tion, that if an apple, inscribed with certain Eunic 
characters, were cast so as to hit the breast of a maiden, 
she at once became powerless to resist the attractions 



dimir of Halicz, and half-edster (somehow) to King Eniid V. ; a queen 
of very bad reputation, concerning whose iU deeds— murderings, burn- 
ings, poisonings of fair damsels both high and low— there are some 
twenty ballads extant. She lies buried in Bingsted church. 

• WTiy Yaldemar calls Boris " stable-boy " is a mystery not yet un- 
rayeUed, and not likely to be ; maybe, like many memb^ of our own 
aristocracy, he dressed himself more like a jockey than a gentleman : 
and afl for the term " horse-thief," we can only suppose him to have 
been on " the turf," and up to a thing or two— an occasional robbery- 
nothing more. Boris was son of Prince Henrik Skatelar (the lame), 
the history of whoso wife, the Princess Ingeborg, I have before men- 
tioned. He founded the convent of Tvis ; and was much too near to 
the disputed succession for King Yaldemar to look on him with a 
pleasant eye. 



Chap. XL. STORY OF LIDEN KIRSTEX. 165 

of her admirer. The vanity of Boris is now put on its 
mettle. He obeys the orders of the queen his sister, 
and the very day of Yaldemar's return little Kirsten 
gives birth to a daughter at her house near Bibe. 

Bent on revenge, Queen Sofie smiles under her 
'^ skind '' (doak) when the king inquires why his sister 
does not come out to meet him ? She relates the story, 
but \aldemar is incredulous. He orders his squires to 
ride to Bibehuus, and conduct his sister to his presence. 
Little Kirsten lay in her dark room, surrounded by* 
her damsels, when Sir Peter arrives, and on receiving 
her brother's summons she cries, '' It will cost me my 
life I " but prepares to obey, and, taking leave of her 
daughter, whom she names Lucy Lille — she rides on 
her palfrey gray — ^ganger graa — ^to the palace, and is 
lifted off her horse pale as death. 

** Shame on you, Sofie ! " exclaims the king ; '^ you 
have slandered my dear sister." As Kirsten enters the 
door she takes her brother by the hand. " Welcome ! " 
she cries, '^a good welcome home from the wars!" 
" Sing me a song ! " demands the king. She sings one 
as well as she can. ^' And now, little Kirsten, you must 
^ threde ' a dance ipth me I " They dance in and they 
dance out, little Kirsten under her brother's skind. 
Yaldemar then turns to the queen : ^' Shame on you, 
Queen Sofie 1 you have slandered my sister." "Have 
I ! " exclaims the queen, and, tearing open the dress of 
poor Kirsten, she presses her bosom : the milk flies out, 
and all is discovered : — 

" Then the king became as red aa blood. 
Little Kirstea aa black aa mould." 

'' Now," said the king, ^^ all happiness is at an end ! 
I had given my word that you should wed the King of 



166 VESTERVIG. Chap. XL. 

England's son, but now you shall die the hardest death 
I can devise ! " 

Kirsten sees it is all over with her. ' She begs for 
mercy, and then, resigned to her fate, makes her will 
After other legacies, she bequeaths — 

** To Sofie my silver-bound knife ; 
For she has sworn away my young life." 

Then the king, in a passion, calls his small page. 

^^ Bring me in the whips ! Bring me one ! bring me 

* two ! — crescendo— eight ! Bring me nine 1 for my sister 

shall surely die ! " All the maidens and matrons 

grieve for her, except the wicked Sofie. 

Valdemar now falls to. " Oh 1 stand up, Sofie, and 
entreat for me ; for your brother has caused my mis- 
fortune." ** No ! '* replies the queen : " my virtuous 
cheek would blush, were I to beg for such as you 1 *' 
Valdemar lays about him with all his force, and the 
floor is stained with blood. Little Kirsten begs, "for 
Christ's sake, who died upon the cross,'* to creep 
under Queen Sofie's skarlagen r0d, but is repulsed. 
" Don't touch it ! " she cries, " or I can never wear it 
agsdn." Whack ! whack I go the whips. At last, with 
one cut out flies the heart of poor Kirsten. When Sir 
Peter sees this, he faints dead upon the bench. 

Valdemar now has exhausted his rage. **0h! 
Sofie!*' he exclaims, "this is all your doing. Alasl 
my poor sister ! Where shall we lay this red rose ? " 
**Lay her?" replies the queen, " on Eibe bridge, to be 
sure ; where I every day may gallop over her grave I *' 
" That shall you not do ! " answers the king ; " we 
will bear her here to Vestervig Kloster, and I will 
give much gold with her to assoil my soul from this 
great sin.*' 



Chap. XL. STORY OF LIDEN KIRSTEN. 167 

He now sends for Boris, condemns him to lose his 
right hand and left foot, to be chained to the wall 
at the porch of Vestervig Kloster, and there " oculis 
defossis " — as the Sagas say — with his eyes dug out» to 
pray once a day at the grave of his little Kirsten, 

Boris lived eleven years chained in this manner to 
the porch of Vestervig, and was afterwards interred in 
the same grave as little Kirsten under the "roses two/'* 
In the year 1610 the grave was opened by order of the 
amtman. The cofiSn was found to be divided into 
two parts, each containing a skeleton, the one of a man, 
the other of a woman. 

According to popular tradition Queen Sofie did 
have her way at last. She survived her king for many 
a year, and espoused a Landgrave of Thuringia, who 
soon divorced her. She did not however quit Denmark 
without having first ridden her " ganger graa " over 
the tombstone of her victim. The print of the horse- 
shoe, faintly visible to very sharp eyes, attests the fact, 
near the very place where the stone is rent in twain. 

Tradition as well as the Sagas also declare that 



* If this story be true, Yaldemar was later ponuhed for his conduct 
to Liden Kirsten in the fortunes of his own daughters, aU throe of 
whom were repudiated by .their husbands without any just cause. 
The history of the youngest, Ingeborg, wife of Philip Augustus, is 
too well known to need recounting. A yolume has been lately pub- 
lished in Danish, from the archives of the papal government, on tliis 
vexed question, which had much better have never been brought to 
light — evidence which in a modem divorce-court would have been 
received with " closed doors." Ingeborg was fifteen years of age, and 
is described as a "sunshine of northern beauty." She understood 
not a word of French ; and during the trial could only utter the 
words, '*Male, male France!" pointmg with her finger, "Rome! 
Some I "— She lived in a convent at Soissons for nineteen years, and 
was then taken back again by her husband — and apply to Bome she 
did, as aU men know. 



168 THYBO R0N. Chap. XL. 

Lucy was married to a King of England's son, though 
who he was I am unable to discover. Yaldemar, on 
the whole, made a good thing of it ; he disembarraflsed 
himself of a dangerous riyal, and gained posseflsion of 
his vast estates- We sat down by the tomb of Liden 
Kirsten, read aloud the ballad in its own native Danish^ 
and then adjourned to our kro, where we found our 
rooms already prepared for us. 

Yestervig is the most considerable village in Thyland. 
''What is that house?" we inquire, pointing to one 
opposite. " The Baadhuus," they reply ; then oome 
three schools, an apothek, and the house of the mayor^ 
to say nothing of that of the provost But where 
is the population? Scattered about here, there, and 
everywhere, for miles around, among the sand-dunes. 

THYBO B0N. 

July 14fA. — ^We have been to a sale to-day; not, 
as you may imagine, of "vieux Danois" porcelain, 
nor of the debris of some ancient chateau passing 
away from a long line of ancestors: nothing of the 
kind. We have been to the auction of the « North 
Sea" steamer, now embedded in the sands on the 
western coast, at a stone's throw from the fishing village 
of Thybo B0n. In company with Baron Rosenkrantz, 
the mayor of Vestervig, the English consul, and a 
whole boat-load of authorities, we embarked on board a 
sailing-boat at the village of Eirke, about eight miles 
distant from the place of our destination. A glorious 
breeze carried us dancing over the waves, the spray 
dashing in our faces, sufficient to brace up our nerves 
for a year to come. After a time the water becomes 



Chap. XL. SALE OF A WRECK. 169 

more shallow, the sandy bottom appears — ^we go bump 
— ^bump — ^bump, and later bu-n-nmp; off again; a 
more decided bump, and then we are stranded to 
move no more. We are here relieved by a flat-bot- 
tomed boat, and re-embarked — ^punted along till within 
half an English mile from the shore, where we are 
met by three peasants in their conntiy carts, who soon 
land us safe upon the beacL The nutets and fonnel of 
the shipwrecked vessel appear rising above the sand- 
dnnesy as well as those of a Norwegian, her sister in 
misfortune. We adjourn to the kro, are received by 
mother Abellona, the mistress — a queer old lady, some- 
what of a character — ^who- hurries the ladies into a 
room to dry their saturated gannents. I myself march 
out» my coat-tails tucked under my arms, for a walk 
on the common. Trust wind to dry you any day, versos 
fire, provided you have plenty of it, and there is no 
scarcity in Jutland. 

I prolonged my walk to the sea-shore ; passed first 
over one range of dunes, carefully planted with the 
sand-reed,* then ascended a second, and came down 
upon the strand. 

A small tent was erected near the shore, and' ranged 
in order for the sale lay the debris of the vessel — 
anchors, coils of rope, sails, sacks of coals, rusty- 
looking iron chain, kitchen utensils, &c The articles 
of greater value were lodged in the village inn to be 
disposed of later. 

The *^ North Sea " herself lay embedded in the sand, all 
on one side. The sea was rough, and the waves dashed 



* Arando arenaria. 



170 THYBO R0N. Chap. XL. 

over her: two more sach nights and she will go to 
pieces. 

It appears, when first wrecked, the engineer sent 
over by the insurance-company was advised to sell 
her outright, The insurance however was too heavy 
(13,000Z.) for the company to abandon her without a 
trial. Thej counted on the west wind to bring the 
water necessary to again set her afloat The west wind 
came, but with it breakers so violent she soon filled a 
second time. So, after an expense of nearly 20002., the 
enterprise was given over. 

There is one thing certain, that no vessel once 
stranded on this most perilous of all coasts ever can 
be got ofil The east wind blows away the water, while 
the west brings with it breakers of such fearful vio- 
lence nothing can withstand theuL Many other vessels 
are here in the same plight^ without speaking of the 
wrecks extending from hence to Skagen. Lower down 
lies the " Auguste," a French boat, and further still the 
Dutch " Harborg f then comes a Swedish frigate, 74, 
and so on ; a regiment of masts of phantom-ships lie 
embedded in the sand down the whole west coast of 
Jutland! In the year 1811 two English ships, the '^ St 
George " and the " Defiance," first-class men-of-war, were 
wrecked on this coast. The masts until not many years 
ago were still above water. The " Defiance " may yet 
be distinguished at low tide, though not the skeletons 
of the Admiral's wife and three daughters in the state- 
cabin, as I was informed by a young lady a few days 
ago. 

At this season la^t year ten vessels lay dose together* 
wrecked, side by side, on the sands, and were stand* 



Chap. XL; OLD ABELLONA. 171 

ing, their masts rising above the waters. They have 
since gone to pieces^ but each' receding wave still dis- 
closes black timbers embedded in the sands. Having 
no intention of bidding, and being literally blown to ' 
shreds by the sea-side, I adjourned to the kro, where 
the sale was preparing — house of as unpromising an 
appearance as your worst enemy could ever wish you to 
be lodged in. 

Abellona, an old Jutland name, is most anxious we 
should eat. She is a queer wrinkled old creature. Her 
head-dress a sort of turban composed of a shawl-pattern 
handkerchief, twisted round with a black coil of the 
same material ; her jacket fastened by two large amber 
buttons (such as men wear on their coats) in quaint 
old silver settings. We ask her where she got them ? 
Grot them I they belonged to her grandmother, and 
hers before her. They are pretty — Pretty ! pretty as 
AbeUona is herself— and she laughs like an old witch. 

Finding we admired the buttons, she pulls out from 
within the kerchief which surrounds her withered throat 
a necklace of amber beads as large as pigeon's eggs 
— clouded amber, such as the Easterns love— of the 
purest quality — collected for her by her sons when 
children — good for the eyes, she says ; all the women 
wear them ; and they are right so to do in this sand- 
flying country. She had two sons still alive, both 
pilots ; and, as she told us how her two youngest had 
both met with a watery grave, shipwrecked in some 
wintei>-6torm, her eyes filled with tears ; then bursting 
into an agony of grief, she hastily quitted the room. 
Poor AbeUona! she is not alone in her sorrow, for 
feaarfol is the loss of life on this raging coast. 

The life of a fisher is a fearful one ; not so much 



172 THYBO R0N. Chap. XL, 

to him, for he is at home upon the waters. He 
thinks little of the dangers of the deep. A sudden 
gust — a capsize — a struggle — and all is over. But to 
those who stay behind the anxiety is fearfiil: what 
sleepless nights in stormy weather — ^what expectation 
— ^what hope worn threadbare — ^too often wound up by 
the news of death and sorrow ! 

On the coast of Brittany — a coast nigh as peril* 
ous as that we are now standing on — are oft seen, 
after a stormy night, the wives and families of 
those who battle with the wave, standing with anxious 
gaze on the rock's extreme point to gain one look 
at the returning vessels ; and again, when, after 
some months' absence, the fishiug-barks arrive in 
harbour, among the joyous meetings of the sailors 
and their wives, among the hearty greetings of their 
fellow-villagers, you are sure to mark some woman 
— surrounded by her children, too young as yet to 
understand the cause— -weeping bitterly, supported by 
some kind-hearted neighbours, willing in her sorrow to 
forget their own joy and comfort the afflicted. She has 
just learned how the fSather of her children, their sole 
support, has met with a watery grave, and she is now 
alone and desolate. And then, on the next suooeeding 
Sabbath, how the altars blaze with lighted tapers and 
thank-offerings for mercies received and appreciated. 
You may smile, you may sneer, call it idolatry and 
Popish ; but the thankoffering of a grateful heart, even 
through a mist of superstition and error, will ascend to 
the throne of grace, and the outpourings of the hearty 
though man may. He will not despise. 

There is a marked change in the pronunciation of 
the villagers on this coast; the language still more 



Chap. XL. LANGUAGE OF THE VILLAGERS. 173 

resembles our own. "WiU'ee drink a glass milk?" 
was asked of us (words abbreviated) by old Abel- 
lona's daughter, on our first entrance — and the old 
woman called her "Mary" instead of Maria, as the 
name is pronounced by the Danes — and a " slow " — 
and Mary herself answered " Yus." Later the driver 
replies to a question, ^' Three " — not tre, a solid ih — 
" waggon come after os :" broad language like that of 
our own peasantry. 

The sale was no^ over, and we prepared to depart. 
N.B. The crockery, nickel silver, &c., sold for higher 
prices than they had originally cost at the Sheffield 
warehouse where they had been purchased. 



174 AGGER CANAL. Chap. XU. 



CHAPTER XLL 



The Agger Canal — Food of the peasants — The girV who trod upon 

bread. 



AGGER CANAL. 

The weather was too rough for us to return by boat ; 
so the boer-carriages were to drive us to the ferry 
on this side of the Agger Canal. We passed by the 
" North Sea," which will soon disappear under the heavy 
breakers now beating against her sides, and then over 
a plain of driving sand — not above the horses' knees, 
however, otherwise it would have been insupportable 
— for the space of some miles. "I recollect," said 
one of the gentlemen who accompanied us, "when 
this sea of sand we now cross was one of the most fertile 
meadows in Jutland." The canal was at that time 
closed, and the whole coast shut out* from the North Sea 
by a range of lofty klits ; the post-road from Agger to 
Lemvig then ran by the shore's side** 

* It was in the month of Febniaiy, 1S25, that a violent storm, soch as 
had been never known since the memory of man, broke on the western 
coast of Jatland. The North Sea, raging with a fury quite unprecedented, 
burst over the klits, laying them low, carrying sand and destraction orei 
the adjoining country, and reopened the Agger Canal, which gave 
ingress to the Liimfiorde, closed upwards of two centuries. It was not, 
however, until the year 1884 that the first vessel passed through into 
the open sea. From that time it became more used, and, in the year 
1856, 1710 vessels passed through it, in and outward bound, the channel 
at tliat time drawing eight feet of water. In consequence of the mild 
winters of '58 and '59 the passage is now reclosing, and at present ia 
reduced to four feet of water. 



cbap. xli. food of the peasants. 175 

The Agger peasants live chiefly on fish. Like all 
Normen, they are lovers of sausages (p0t8e) and other 
" salaisons." A wedding-feast here consists of four 
courses of fish — ^very common fish, too, for they devour 
dog-fish and all sorts of nastiness. For meat they care 
not, neither for bread- Pity, they say, " to grind and 
bake good com into loaves, which might be turned into 
brandy." 

This indiflTerence to bread is not in accordance with 
the religion of the Danes, for they say, " We must 
not even lay the Bible upon bread.** And when in 
Zealand a peasant drops a piece of bread, he takes 
it up quickly, and, kissing it, begs pardon of " Our 
Lord " for having treated carelessly " His good gift" 
Many, too, are the stories related by the old as warning 
to the children " not to profane the blessed bread.*' 

A young girl in service near Flinterup, in Zealand, 
one day received permission to visit her aged mothfer, 
and her mistress gave her five loaves to take as a 
present So the girl dressed herself as fine as a 
peafowl, and, coming where the road was impassable 
on account of the mud, to avoid dirtying her shoes, laid 
down the loaves as stepping-stpnes, in order to pass 
over dry-footed. But as she placed her feet upon the 
bread, the loaves sank deeper and deeper, tUl she 
entirely disappeared in the bog and was seen no more. 
The girls of the village still sing a lay about " the bad 
girl who trod upon bread to keep her shoes clean.'* * 



* Hans Andersen has made this legend the gabject of one of his 
ohaiming tales. The same feeling as regards the " holiness of bread "' 
appears to have existed in Bomholm ; and it is related that a woman, 
A.D. 1592, who " took its name in vain," having declared to a beggar- 
woman that she had none to give her, was punished by finding the 



176 AGGER CANAL. Chap. XLI. 

We passed the Great Canal in a pilot-boat, and then 
drove across the smaller one, now entirely closed ** to 
the pnblic." 

This caprice of the waters is not, however, of modem 
times, for we find by history that in the year 1050, 
Harald Haaideraade, escaping from Svend Estridsen, 
was compelled to transport his fleet across the sands into 
the North Sea, over the hanks which still bear the name 
of Haraldseid Some few years later Knud the Holy 
passed with his fleet, destined for the conquest of Eng- 
land, safe without impediment to the North Sea. The first 
closing of this passage is supposed to have been caused 
by the sinking of a vessel in time of war to pre- 
vent the entrance of the enemy into the Liimfiorde ; 
the sand, taking this obstacle as a point d'appui, closed 
around it, and gradually caused the stoppage, which 
lasted for centuries. We continue our course, rather 
wearisome, through the pretty village of Agger by the 
Flade lake; pass by the new church-~old one long 
since embedded in the sand. How slow the man drives I 



whole of the batch then bakmg in the oTen turned to stone. One c^ 
these loaves was preserved for a long time in the mnseum, and the 
Czar Peter was so much astonished at the fact that he carried off a 
crumb by way of curiosity. 



Chap. XLII. LEMVIG. 177 



CHAPTER XLII. 

Battle of the Giants — Patriotisin of a peasant — Sequel to the stoiy of 
Hamlet — Protection against flying sand — Magnus Hunk and the 
still — Gipsies the outcasts of society — The dragon and the wizard 
^Appearance of the Black Pest— Depopulation of the Ale Mose. 



LEMVIG. 

Jvly \hih. — ^Bkady to start this morning, when a 
message came fix>m the mairie, begging us to wait an 
hour and our friends of yesterday would accompany us 
as far as a chamber called King Bosmer's H0i. We 
assented, and started, a large party, on our way to Nees- 
sund, to meet the steamboat We pass by the solid 
church of Heltborg (giant's castle), which stands directly 
opposite to that of Karby (once Earl-by), in the island 
of Mors. 

In days long since gone by was fought a terrible battle 
between the heroes of Thy and the Karls of Mors. They 
pelted each other across the water with huge masses of 
granite, which there lay in heaps, until the introduction 
of Christianity into the North. The stones were then 
turned to a good account, and the churches of the above- 
named Tillages built with the materials. On the few 
which remain the peasants still discern giant finger- 
marks. 

We stopped at King Bosmer's H0i, a chamber similar 
to that we hare already visited near Frederikssund, — ^not 
quite so lofty, but the size of the stones is marvellous, 

VOL. II. N 



178 LEMVIG. Chap. XLU. 

and there are two small cabinets-de-toilette, one on each 
side of the principal room, which is more remarkable. 
After ally Bosmer was no smaa konge, but a Jarl — 
there were none north of the Liimfiorde. A duke once 
— Duke Toke, or Jokke (to play the fool) — ^but the title 
he did not like ; his only son Odenka became bishop, 
and possessor of two-thirds of the lands of Yendsyssel, 
and his sons were all bishops after him. 

Of Jarl Bosmer himself we know little. There is a 
ballad about him : he reigned over Thy, Mors, and Sal- 
ling, about the ninth century, and was said to have been 
contemporary of King Gorm, 

At the shore of the Nees-sund we take leave of 
our friends, and embark upon the steamer, which 
sails down the Liimfiorde. We have again a village 
of Dover hard by: Limes, too, in profusion: are in the 
waters and off the manors of the Eaas, poor Mary's 
^' Baron Cowes," one of the few ancient Jutland fami* 
b'es stiU existing. We sail by the island of Thy. Flat 
are the coasts on each side; later the Liimfiorde 
becomes wide and extensive like a real sea. The 
ragged klits which separate the waters from the ocean 
again appear in sight We turn to the left into a branch 
fiorde, where, snuggling at the foot of a range of green 
hills, in a little bay of its own, so comfortable and pro- 
tected, a very haven of delight to those who come from 
windy Thy, appears the place of our destination. We 
drop some small coin in the tin money-box placed on 
the skylight for ^^ doeks folk," and are quickly landed 
on the pier of of Lemvig. 

The descent into the town of Lemvig is sharp and 
precipitous, and the town is visible to the eye only when 
you arrive, so that the old saying runs—" Take care 



Chap. XLU. GUDUMKLOSTER. 179 

you don't come to the water before you get there." 
You see the lights shining on the other side of the liim- 
fiorde long beforehand. 

It was in the war of the seventeenth century that a 
Jutland peasant was constrained by force to conduct a 
party of Swedes across the moors to the city of Lemvig, 
where they were about to raise a " contribution," 
Now the peasant^ before starting, declared that he 
would never betray his country, so he led the troop 
by a roundabout way, and it was dark before they 
arrived at the border of the Liimfiorde. " Shall we not 
soon arrive ? " exclaimed the captain of the troop. " Ten 
minutes' gallop and we are there," replies the peasant ; 
^* see, those are the lights shining in the distance — en 
avant!" and plunging the spurs into their horses' 
flanks, the whole body sprung forward, and fell headlong 
into the waters of the Liimfiorde. 

On the following morning (it was Christmas-day), 
when the people came out from church, they found the 
shores of their little bay scattered over with corpses 
washed up by the tide ; among them the body of the 
peasant, who was known to them; and later they heard 
how he had sworn never to aid or abet the Swedes in 
their design upon the purses of his countrymen. 

GUDUMKLOSTER. 
16th, — It was six o'clock this morning when we quitted 
the little town of Lemvig — Lsemwich, as it is written 
in King Valdemar's Jorde Book — a most enviable 
little place, where cherry and rose trees train along the 
walls, and avenues of horse-chesnuts flourish straight 
on their stems. We now say "adieu" to the Liimfiorde 
— ^not quite, for she turns up occasionally : when least ex- 

N 2 



180 GUDUMBXOSTER. Chap. XLll. 

pected, appearing like a white silver film in the horizon, 
between the numerous tumuli with which this country 
bubbles, to-day rendered more bumptious still by the 
presence of innumerable hay-cocks. The crops here 
look well — ^buckwheat and rye. Potatoes too are mag- 
nificent — ^far finer than those of windy Thy. The ancient 
tomb-mounds do good service to the farmer : they break 
the fiiry of the blast and protect the young crops. The 
com is finer behind one of these little eminences than 
in the open plain. Thy, too, though fertile enough when 
under cultivation, has the disadvantage of a limestone 
bottom, bums more easily, and suffers much in time of 
drought ; her very turfs are inferior to those of the rest 
of Jutland. Our way runs by Gudumkloster, — " Good 
as a monk of Gudum" ran the proverb ; and I am only 
too glad to repeat anything in favour of the Church 
when in my power. We will pause one moment, and 
again turn to Amleth, whom we lately left, shortly 
after the murder of Fengo, in the island of Mors. 

Amleth now speedily arranges his affairs, and then 
prepares to return to England to visit his father-in*law. 
But this time he will go as a king should do, so he 
causes a shield to be £E»hioned of curious workmanship, 
on which he has engraved all the deeds of his man* 
hood, and scenes from his childhood upwards, the mur- 
der of his father, the late marriage of the queen his 
mother, his own mad pranks, his journey to England, and 
his marriage with the daughter of the English king.* 



* Fearing that the yirid deeoription given by Soxo of the pictorial 
decorations on the shield of Amleth may give rise to some erroneom 
idea as to the state of art in these early days, I must explain that tlieae 
representations were nothing more nor leas than " HSllristninger," or 
figure-diawings^nmes of the fifth century. The only apecimens 



Chap. XLII. STORY OF HAMLET. 181 

He canseB all the shields of his followers to be richly 
gilt, and, after a prosperous voyage, arrires at the court 
of his father-in-law. He is joyftdly received by the king, 
and presented by his wife wi^ a pledge of their mutual 
affection, a son and heir. 

The English king inquires after Fengo, and for the 
first time hears of his deatL Fengo was his ally, and 
these two were boxmd together by a solemn promise to 
avenge each other's death, even if they spilt the last 
drop of their blood in fdlfilling their oaths. His feel- 
ings are divided between his oath and affection for his 
daughter, added to which, he highly esteems his son-in- 
law. He conceals his feelings, greatly tormented by his 
oath, until the queen dies. He then determines to get rid 
of Amieth by some underhand means, and thus clear his 
conscience. So he sends him on an embassy to Scotland 



exiflting in Denmark are one or two figures on a rock near Heltborg, in 
Thj. In Sweden they abonnd on the rocks of Bohnslan. A ship (a) 
much resembling the comb termed by French hairdressers " demeloire " 
—up on end— -represents a voyage ; a tree a forest, &c. &c. Battles are 
sometimes more fully described. I give specimens : — 



VjlllHMMMIMIIIilllllll/ / 




182 G0DUMKLOSTER. Chap. XLII. 

to demand for the king the hand of the Scottish ^neen 
Hermentnide in marriage,, being well aware that this 
sovereign not only loved the life of a maid, bat also 
slew all those wooers who approached her court on a 
matrimonial speculation. 

Amleth, on arriving in Scotland, sits down with his 
fcdlowers by a river's side. The Scottish queen is aware 
of his arrival; a spy passes the guards, and, while 
Amleth slumbers, removes his shield and the bag con- 
taining the letters from the English king, and canies 
them to his royal mistress. The queen, on seeing the 
shield of the sleeping prince, at once discovers, by the 
devices engraved thereon, who he really is. She reads 
the letter from the King of England, and, after Amleth's 
own fashion, changes the characters, so that Amleth is 
ordered to demand her in marriage for himself. Her- 
mentnide does this because she hates the old king and 
prefers for her husband a handsome young warrior like 
Amleth. She causes the spy to return to the camp and 
replace the shield and hag where he had found them. 

Amleth had discovered his loss, but feigns sleep; 
catches the spy, awakes his followers, and at once goes 
to Queen Hermentnide, by whom he is most graciously 
received. She praises his noble deeds, and is quite 
astonished at the mesalliance he has committed in marry- 
ing the daughter of the English king, a princess bom 
of slave parents. ^' You should have married me, who 
am neither poor nor low, and worthy for you to live 
with — of pure royal blood — who can make a king of 
him whom I marry; accept, then, the hand as yet 
refused to everybody, and which no one has as yet 
demanded without loss of life.'' Amleth, nothing loth, 
consents. She embraces him; and the nuptial cere- 



Chap. XLII, STORY OF HAMLET. 183 

mony over, they both depart for England on a visit to 
the ConrL He is there first met by his former wife, 
who, after reproaching him with his want of faith, tells 
him, "I have good cause to wail; still my love is 
great; I cannot hate you; therefore will I still live 
in harmony with your second wife, though my son 
will hate her as you hated your stepfather Fengo. 
Beware of my £ftther, he seeks to kill you; put no 
faith in his promises.*' The English king comes out 
with two hundred armed warriors to meet him; but 
Amleth, forewarned, causes his people to wear under 
their gala-clothes their chain-armour. When he enters 
the portal of the castle the king draws his sword, 
and endeavours to slay him ; but Amleth receives only a 
scratch, and flies. He sends a messenger to explain the 
afihir. The king, however, is not pacified. A battle 
takes place, in which many of Amleth's followers are 
slain. Eeduced in numbers, he douses the dead to be 
collected and fastened on to the chargers they mounted 
when alive. The enemy are by these means deceived, 
and Amleth comes off victorious; the English king 
is slain. 

Amleth now returns to Jutland, accompanied by his 
two wives ; and here first begin my illustrations of the 
" Prince of Denmark's " story. Not far removed to the 
right from the city of Lemvig, near the sea-coast, lies 
the village of Bamme. It was here, according to tra- 
dition, he first established himself on his return to 
Jutland; for he found the country in revolt. The 
queen, his mother, had taken part with Yiglet, the 
pretender, who, in his absence, had usurped the throne. 

Ton may still observe the grassy remains of an 
ancient encampment, such as we call in England a 



1 84 QUDUHELOSTER. Cbap. XLIL 

"Danish camp," constnidted for defence against an 
enemy attacking from the eastern side. This monnd is 
called Bamme, and also goes by the name of Amleth's 
Castle. Our hero has now his choice before him — eiilier 
to acknowledge the usurper, or fight his way against an 
unequal enemy. Honour tells him to follow the latter 
course. At first he is successful, and drives Yiglet bacJc 
with great slaughter into Zealand, as the ridge of tumuli 
by M0borg still attests. Yiglet returns the following 
year. Amleth, prepared for the worst, is anxious before 
his death to procure a fitting husband and protector for 
Hermentrude (of his English wife we hear nothing). 
She however insists on accompanying him to the battle, 
declaring it is only a faithless wife who fears to accom- 
pany her husband when in danger. The battle now nms 
northward. Amleth is defeated by his enemies, and 
slain on the heathery moor which extends wide and brown 
before our eyes. Ybu may observe a ridge of " h0is," 
not far from a small white churcL There, under the 
loftiest, he lies buried, with due honour (so tradition 
says) ; and the h0i stiU bears the name of Amleths or 
Angels H0i, as the moor itself is well known to every 
peasant-child under the denomination of Anglands 
Mose. 

Alas ! for Hermentrude — " La donna e mobile," as the 
song goes ; and she was not in this respect superior to 
her sisters. Amleth once slain, she accepts Yiglet; 
as old Saxo, the monk, has it — ^not I — " So soon &te 
turns round the promises of a woman; for what a 
woman promises in her mind can never be depended 
upon. Many change for as little as this ; they promise 
easily, but seldom keep their faith" — following up 
this sentiment with something so uncomplimentary 



GBAP. XLII. JUTLAND NAME OF THE HEARTSEASE. 185 

to the fiedr sex, I cannot take npon myself to translate 
it 3axo winds up with a floorish of trumpets aboat 
Hamlet and his Tirtaes, comparing him to Heicnles, 
and deploring the untimely fate of a prince worthy 
in his eyes to have ruled oyer the whole world. 

With Gudum we leave cultiyation, dip down into a 
dell, and out again — all brown moor and heather. Dells 
or dales they are here called — ^we have Longdale, 
Stourdale, and Friesdale. These dells have little riyu- 
lets of their own, busily turning the mills on their bank's 
side. The trout rise among the wateivlilies, yellow still ; 
and the meadow-sweet is now in its fiill luxuriance — 
" engdronning," or meadow-queen, they here call it. 
Each flower in this primitiye country has its own story. 
The heartsease is here termed " Stepmother " — ^to under- 
stand why, you must turn your flower upside down. 
Then before you stands a fat, portly petal, clothed in 
garments of brilliant colours : turn her round ; you see 
she has two green petals (of the calix) to her bodice. 
On each side of her are ranged her own daughters in 
gowns of gaudy stuff — same colour behind and before, 
with one green point apiece. Then come two elder 
girls in dresses of brown or dull purple, yery dowdy. 
Look, too, at their bodies behind, poor things ; they have 
only one point between them ; obL'ged to sew it on and 
cut it off alternately — these are the stepdaughters. We 
agab pass by the Liimfiorde, not far from the little town 
of Strove, where we landed for five minutes yesterday 
— a small village, frightened and bustled out of its pro- 
priety by the expectation of the arrival of the new 
Juthmd railroad in its little harbour. It really does not 
know what to do first : a new quay it must have — church 
it has already, a very respectable one. So it commences 



186 HJEfiM. CuAP.XLIL 

new houses ; has transformed its piivileged kro into an 
inn, and reminds me of a Danish drawing-room on 
loyerdag (Saturday), or cleaning-day ; all bustle and meas 
— ^furniture in confusion, half turned out of window. 

The women wear a queer costume in these parts — a 
shawl tied tight round their heads, with a gag acroes 
their mouths, a preventive against' flying sand — ^like 
that worn by Dorothea Queen of Christian I. in her 
portrait in the Grallery of Frederiksborg, Their dresses, 
as their head-gear, are of homespun tartan. 

HJERM. 

We arrive at the cleverly-vaulted village church of 
Hjerm, where we stop to visit the last resting-place of 
Mogens Munk, the leader of the Jutland nobles against 
Christian 11. He is buried here,* and his monument of 
sandstone engraved with an inscription in ancient letters. 
On his cofiObi lie his helmet, sword, and cuirass ; but the 
vault is now closed to the public ; for some years since 
occurred a most ridiculous incident. Somebody, ac- 
companied by many learned men, and especiaUy by a 
clever anatomist. Dr. D., proceeded to Hjerm church to 
make a ddlscent upon the coffin of Mogens Munk. 
" Don't open the coffin," exclaimed the deacon ; ** let 
the dead lie stilL" They proceed to the vault; Dr. 
D., measure in hand, prepared to mark down his lati- 
tudes and longitudes, to take a cast of his skuU, and 
write a treatise upon the subject — to prove the cha^ 
racter of the defunct, by his bumps and the form of 
the cranium, diametrically opposite to what history 
describes. The lid is uncovered, and what meets their 

♦ 1558. 



Chap. XLIl. HOLSTREBRO. 187 

astonifihed eyes ? Not Mogens Monk, but an illicit still 
for the fabrication of corn-brandy. Next day came the 
excise. The still had disappeared; but on farther search 
it was discoyered on the top of the pulpit sounding- 
board. 

Decidedly the first Protestant clergy made up for the 
celibacy of their predecessors. One ecclesiastic is here 
portrayed, together with his wife and eighteen children. 
We are in a new beat as regards English names: 
there are the Feldings, Jermiins, and the Stranges; 
among other noble worthies lies the last descendant of 
the house of '^Grib/' over whose extinction there is 
great lamentation on the epitaphium. Christian IIL 
gave to Olaf Munk, ex Boman Catholic bishop of Bibe, 
the Eloster of Tvis for life as an apanage (foundation of 
poor Prince Boris), and there he lived and died. And 
now we make for Holstrebro, a pretty, little town not 
far off, where we stop to dine, and then proceed on our 
journey towards Bingk]0bing. 

HOLSTREBKO. 
We approach the coast, leaving to the left that vast 
expanse of uncultiyated heath and moor which runs 
through the centre of North Jutland, the Ale Mose, 
where, towards the village of Bind, the gipsies chiefly 
herd: " Natsmandsfolk,*' as they are called — ^night- 
men ; not from their profession, but from the darkness 
of their skins. They first made their appearance in 
the sixteenth century, when many hordes came over 
fitom the East, and enjoy here as elsewhere a most 
unenviable reputation. They are looked upon by their 
fellow men as a sort of outlaws, accused of setting fire 
to houses, being beggars and thieves. The profession 



188 HOLSTREBRO. Chap. XLO. 

they ply is that of chinmey«-sweep8. They skin the dead 
beasts which die a natural death, and perform offices 
other men refuse — ^rakke-arbeide, it is termed. When 
young they are said to be tractable ; but when <Hioe 
they rise to manhood and marry, they relapse into the 
bad ways of their brethren. They are allowed to attend 
no festivals ; no man would seat himself beside them. 
> In the town and country kros wooden cups are kept for 
their express use — rakke-glas they are called. In 
some countries the public executioner was ennobled; 
in Denmark he enjoys the office of " city scavenger," 
and his seven underlings are rakkers. In the chorches 
of Deiberg and other villages there are separate pews 
set aside for their occupation, called rakke-stola Some 
years since a prisoner of the gipsy tribe was induced 
to teach their peculiar language to the chaplain of the 
prison of Yiborg, who later published a grammar in the 
Botvoelsk tongue, as it is called. On his dismissal from 
jail he was instantly murdered by his former associates. 
We had brought a letter for Professor Tang, proprietor 
of the mansion-house of Norre Vosborg. We found him 
at the inn at Holstrebro, together with Hans Andersen; 
so we accepted his kind invitation to pass a couple of days 
at his manor-house, some three miles distant from Bingk- 
J0bing. It was seven o'clock when we left Holstrebra 
Our road runs across the wildest heather-scenery— 
scarcely a village, scarcely a farm. It will take xm 
some four hours to drive there ; so I amuse myself by 
looking over the map. We are not far from Bor- 
biei^, whose village church was built under most sin- 
gular circumstances. Holy, very holy people in vain 
endeavoured to raise the walls. As fast as they built 
them up, the devil again cast them down. Tired out, 



Chap. XLII. THE ALE M08E. 189 

though much against their inclination^ they enter into 
a compact with his satanio majesty ; sign and seal that 
he is to receive as his own property the first bride who 
enters the church by the east porch, and leave them 
qtiiet ; but the holy men are sharper than Old Nick, for 
they build a western porch, which he never thought of; 
and up to this very day no bride has ever come in by 
the eastern gate, nor would she for her bridegroom's 
weight in gold. 

THE ALE MOSE. 

As you travel for miles along the Ale Mose, and 
nothing but heath, heath meets the eye, you would 
imagine that this tract of land has been for ever uncid- 
tivated ; but such is not the case ; for among the wild 
mose, now alone inhabited by the gipsy and the lapwing, 
may be discovered, from time to time, ruins of cottages 
and remains of furnaces, where once the blacksmith 
plied his trade — swords and weapons are laid open by 
the turf-cutter : it is easy to perceive that civilization 
has here once been, and long since passed away. It is 
now five hundred years ago since, in a swamp adjoining 
a small village on the mose, there dwelt a dragon — a 
very harmless dragon, provided always he was left un- 
disturbed. The people, however, suffered greatly from 
rats, and one day there appeared a wizard who offered 
for nothing to rid them of the plague, provided there 
were no dragons in the neighbourhood. Now the people 
were so anxious to get rid of the nuisance, they lied, 
and assured him there was nothing of the kind ever 
heard of thereabouts ; so the wizard, confiding in their 
word, sat himself down, and, having first cut a circle in 
the heath, and kindled a fire in the midst, began to read 



190 THE ALE MOSE. Chap. XU. 

firom his book Cyprianus, commencing at the last page, 
backwards: the rats ran into the fire and were all 
burnt. Then in came the dragon. When the wizard 
saw the dragon, he turned pale, exclaiming, " I musfc 
now die ; you false men, you have deceived me, but you 
will not live yourselves many years. You are accorsed,. 
and your village will become desolate I '^ Then the 
dragon folded his tail round the wizard, dragged him 
into the fire, and they were both consumed together. 

It was on the eve before Christmas, in the year 
1348, that there dwelt in this herred near the sea a rich 
nobleman, Esldl Juel by name. A stranger knocked 
at the door of his castle, begged for shelter and per- 
mission to remain the night. But Eskil replied, 
**No, I will not give house to a vagabond. We keep 
feast and festival with our friends on Christmas-eve, 
and will not be disturbed. Go to the parish priest : he 
has a large house; he drinks deep, and will let you 
stay till to-morrow." Now it was the old custom in 
those days for the priest to perform a midnight mass on 
the eve of Christmas, such as still exists in old Catholic 
countries. When the villagers arrived at the church 
they found it closed, and no lights. " It is a shame and 
a sin," they cried, " for the priest to sit drinking in his 
house; no doubt he has forgotten the service alto- 
gether." So after waiting till near dawn Uiey went 
to the parsonage to see what was the matter ; and if 
their suppositions proved true, to upbraid the priest 
with his conduct. When they arrived at the house 
they saw but one faint light glimmering through the 
window, and on the floor lay dead the priest and those 
who were with him in the house, all save one old woman, 
and she stiU breathed. "A bad guests" she gasped, 



Chap. XLU. THE BLACK PEST. 191 

''has Eskil Juel sent to us this Christmas-eye. All 
here are dead, and I am dying fast" Then the man ran 
back, and told his fellow-yillagers what a bad Christmas 
was in store for them. When day dawned a great ship 
was seen stranded on the sand-banks; all on board 
were lying dead, their faces black, the stranger alone had 
reached the shore. None however sickened that day ; 
bat at night the pest began, and spread in a few days 
aver all the land: it lasted for one year and some 
months, destroying more than one-third of the popula- 
tion of Jutland. It was a terrible year that of 134%- 
no sun, but a heavy mist over all the earth. At last, 
towards the second spring, the mist dispersed, the sky 
again appeared blue, and the pestilence was stayed. 

But the villages of the centre of the land, that long 
expanse of mose now desolate, called the Ale Mose, 
suffered the most; the few inhabitants who escaped 
the scourge emigrated to the sea-coast and from Uiat 
time since the country has been uninhabited. So the 
prophecy of the wizard came true. 

We now turn off at the village of Ulvborg — ^Wolf 
Castle — ^rather an ominous appellation in these dreary 
parts of Jutland ; but wolves no more exist here than 
in our own provinces of England. Towards the middle 
of the last century they were common enough ; they tore 
the cattle, and did much damage. The last of the race 
was killed, in the year 1811, somewhere by Estvads- 
gaard in a forest near Skive. Wild boars too are quite 
.extinct. In 1694 Christian Y. is said to have killed 
sixteen in one day's chace. 

Yosborg now appears in the distance, and a cross- 
road over the mose leads us towards it. It stands alone, 
isolated, surrounded by trees. The North Sea roars in 



192 THE ALE HOSE. Chap. XLU. 

the distance; all is wild and mysterions. It seems 
as though we are about to invade the hold of some 
robbei>chieftain9 not to visit the demesne of a peace- 
able member of the Danish Parliament We arrive, 
drive through an ancient gateway into the second court, 
whiz again round a comer into a third, are landed on 
the stone steps, where the dame chatelaine stands, 
with her youthful daughters, ready to receive us on 
our arrival. 



CHiLP. XLIII. VOSBORO. 193 



CHAPTER XLIIL 

Legend of the English prince and his bed of gold — The Inck of 
Voeborg manor — Little Peter the cow-driver — The industrioua 
Niases — Long Margaret and her eight mnrders— Private tutor of 
Prince George of Denmark — Story of Havelock the Dane — Chutoma 
on ChrJatmas-ere — The cozporal and hia little childi 



VOSBORG. 

July nth, — ^It is a queer old place, Vosborg, with 
its triple range of yallums and its moats, the first of 
which, on the western side, quite out-tops the house ; 
in former days a protection against marauding bands ; 
in the present more peaceful times, against the equally 
troublesome west wind The chateau, like most of these 
ancient manors, is of different periods : the oldest wing 
dates fi-om some five hundred years, and here, too, we 
are again en pays de connaissance, for within these walls 
was bom Niels Bugge, leader of the eyer-revolting Jut- 
land nobility against Valdemar Atterdag. He neyer 
enjoyed the rites of Christian burial; but from the 
drops of gore which fell trickling from his body upon 
the sands at Middelfart sprang the plants of the red 
cabbage, which alone are there found growing on the 
shore, and still mark the spot of his assassination. 

It was in Niels Bugge's time that near Vosborg 
took place the well-known shipwreck of the English 
prince, still sung, set to music, one of the most popular 
ballads among the peasantry of this country. Who he 
was I cannot ascertain; but he travelled like a '^real 

VOL. II, o 



194 VOSBORG. Chap. XLIII. 

prince :" not swung up, like Prince Alfred, in a vulgar 
hammock, but with his " real bed of gold." He came 
to grief on the lands of Bidder Frost, a very bad man, 
who not only plundered him of his goods and chattels^ 
golden bed included, but allowed him even to be sacked 
and insulted by his " kokkedreng," cook's boy. 

'^ Oh I" exclaims the unlucky prince, blubbering like 
a schoolboy — 

"Oh I had I ne'er fallen in Frost's handa. 
But oome to shore on Bugge's lands, 
Sir Kiels would have sent me both knight and svend,^ 
Now robs me Sir Eskil's kokkedreng/' 

When this news comes to the ears of Sir Niels Bi^e, he 
despatches to his assistance his two sons, and recovers 
among other things the celebrated golden bed from the 
hands of the robber Frost ; invites the prince to his 
castle of Hald, gives him a fresh outfit, and sends him 
back to England loaded with honours. The English 
prince was not of an ungrateful disposition, for he 
leaves his golden bed behind him. The altarpiece of 
the chmrch of Holstebro is carved from the oak of the 
vessel in which he was wrecked, the head of his 
golden bed is preserved in the church of Sal, while 
the foot forms the altar-table of that of Stadil — ^where 
you may see them both if you have any curiosity. This 
old chateau of Vosborg, like most of the Jutland 
manors, has its mystic number on which its &te de- 
pends. Vosborg always passes away in marriage or by 
sale in the third generation. From the Bugges it passed 
to the Vendel Bos ; t on to the Podebusk, or Puibus, 



* Betainers. 

t An early iUostration : Bo Henderson, of the honaehold troope of 
Knud the Holy, stood firm to the fortunes of King Niels, and fh>m a 



CHAP.XLni. THE TANO'FAMILY. 19S 

some of Lille Tove's German relations who came over 
to look after the loayes and fishes of Denmark.* Then 
passing over the Jnels, Langes, and the Winds — one of 
whom was a celebrated mineralogist, and first discovered 
the silver-mines of Kongsborg ; he lies buried in Tronyem 
Cathedral — we cdfcne to Svanevedel, the last of whom 
sold his soul to the devil ; then to the Leths, from whom 
it passed to the grandfather of the present proprietor. 
We are now in the third generation, a blooming fiEmsiily 
of six daughters enliven this mysterious mansion, but 
no son — ^no heir. Vosborg will again fall into the pos- 
session of some other name by marriage. The story of 
the Tang family is too interesting to be passed over in 
silence. I have it from the mouth of the proprietor 
himseK, who is justly proud of the industry and talents 
of his forefathers. 

It was in the early part of the eighteenth century a 
family of Vendel peasants emigrated to these parts, 
and settled on the lands of the domain of Vosborg. 

Hemet Leth was at that time lord of the manor, a 
bad extravagant man, always in want of money, and 
oppressive over those who depended on him. Tang 
was the only man who dared to remonstrate with him 
on his injustice, and who possessed any influence over 
his mind. Vosborg is not far removed from the Nissum 
riorde; the sea-water at the spring-tides runs up to 
the outer vallum, inundating the intervening meadows 
with its flow. 



Vendel peasant became ennobled, and ranked among the most illna- 
trious of the land. 

♦ One of the family, Wenceslans, really was rightftil Dnke of Rngen, 
but nnjuatly disinl^erited ; he and his fumily were prayed for in the 
churches of their native isle for generations after the usurper had 
gained the ducal power. 

2 



196 VOSBORG. Chap* XLIII. 

It was the custom each sncceeding spring for the 
peasants of the domain to drive up their cows and turn 
them loose into the meadows, to eat off the salt grass — a 
good alterative it was considered for the cattle — ^the 
fields themselves benefiting by the operation. One 
morning, young Peter Tang, a boy of eleven years 
of age, while driving his beasts to grass, meets by tlie 
bridge of Vosborg an old woman seated on a wa^on 
laden with apples.* 

Little Peter as he passes by holds up his hands, 
childlike, and begs an apple from the old woman, who 
refused, crying out, " You little miscreant ! you ask an 
apple from me, a poor woman, when in your own hand 
you hold a golden one of your own !" f Later in life 
these words of the old woman often crossed his mind, 
and encouraged him in his industry and perseverance. 
Peter is now eighteen years of age. The Jutlanders 
were less slaves to their landowners than the peasants 
of Zealand; still they were subject to the feudal 
conscription, from which, with the good will of the lord, 
they could purchase freedom by the payment of fifty 
dollars. So old Tang goes up to the manor with a 
bag containing the necessary sum, and begs to purchase 
the freedom of his boy. 

" No, no,'* replies the lord of the castle, "your son is 
a fine clever lad, and in these days good soldiers are 
wanted. I can't let him offi" 

The peasant saw well enough that it was something 
else his lord wanted, so determined to know his terms. 



* Apples were not then cultiyaied in this part of Jutland ; so the 
Holsteinors and people from the East sent up tiieir refuse to seU to the 
peasantry, who were glad to purchase them in exchange for eels. 

t People's good fortune was always foretold — afterwards. 



Chap. XLIH. STORY OF PETER TANG. 197 

** Well then, give me that little meadow of yours, and 
I will sign the freedom of your boy.'* 

Old Tang's heart waxed heavy, for he had himself 
reclaimed this meadow from the waters; but though 
the loss was great to him, he loved his child better : 
a paper is drawn out, signed and sealed; young Peter 
is free, and sent to a professor to complete his 
education, for his father determined to apprentice him 
to a merchant at Eingkj0bing. 

At the age of twenty-five appears the name of Peter 
Tang as one of the richest merchants of the city of his 
adoption. High in character, he married the £a.ir 
daughter of the burgomaster, Marien Kier. His fortune 
BtUl continues augmenting until the year 1778, when 
Christian Leth, the son of his old lord, dies childless, 
and the manor of Vosborg is for sale ; but no one will 
buy it, the times are hard, and the season bad. Peter 
one day, after his store is closed, walks dovm, stick in 
hand, to the chateau. 

**If," says he to himself, "the three old limes at the 
entrance of the second court are still standing, I will 
then purchase the chateau ; if they are no longer there, 
I give up the idea." The limes stood erect, fragrant 
in full blossom, as they now are ; and on the following 
Monday Peter Tang, the boy who twenty years before 
drove his cows over the bridge to the salt meadow, be- 
came Lord of Vosborg. But the aged mother of the 
last proprietor, widow of his old oppressor, still dwelt 
therein ; so Peter, who bore no malice, visits her, and 
consults her what to do. 

" Let me," she replies, " die where I have always 
lived ; but first make the roof water-tight^ for I cannot 
sleep for the rain. You shall give me a home, for I am 



198 VOSBORO. Chap. XUII. 

penniless; but I will aid you with my counsels and 
experience ; and while you are absent about your com- 
mercial affairs will manage the estate for you." 

Peter consented, so the noble lady and the peasant 
worked together hand in hand, and Vosborg was 
put into repair — ^new farm-buildings built — ^you may 
see them now. Old peasant Tang was still alive ; and 
Peter's first act was to return the meadow exacted to 
procure his freedom ; but his father refused to accept 
it " Keep it," he said, " you deserve it." The poverty 
of the peasantry at that season was fearful : sacceed- 
ing years of bad harvests had produced a &mine 
over all Europe — ^those terrible years which preceded 
the first outburst of tiiie French revolution. Peter 
receives no money from his peasants ; he sends ships to 
Dantzic and Amsterdam to procure com to keep them 
&om starving. The second year is worse than the firsti 
and Peter's heart fails him — ^the purchase of Yosboi^g 
will prove his ruin. He now brings over potatoes for 
their subsistence, but they do not much like them. 
Matters come to the worst — ^at last improve, and all 
prospers. 

Some years later, old Peter now, but hearty stfll, 
walked, as usual, stick in hand, over from Eingkj0hing 
on the Saturday, after closing time, to stay till Monday 
at Vosborg. While standing on a lull he observes a nar- 
row strip of dark-green foliage among the meadows; 
he turns to observe it; finds it to be a ridge of 
potatoes, preserved by an old woman, and planted since 
the time of famine. From this ridge dates the intro- 
duction of the potato-plant into the west provinces 
of Jutland. At the death of their father the five 
brothers and two sisters found themselves possessors 



Chap. XLIIL THE msSES. ' 199 

of eight noble chateaux and herregaarda which together 
mated amount to more than a Grefskab, or comity. 
Peter Tang, the rich merchant of Bingk}0bing, was 
grandfather to Professor Tang, the present proprietor 
of the manor. 

To imagine for one moment that an ancient habita- 
tion like Vosborg coidd be without its ghosts and its 
traditions in a country like Jutland would be monstrous. 

First on the list come the Nisses, who dwell in one 
of the small bridges hard by; they are good little 
fellows, and, beyond teazing and tormenting the 
milkmaids, neyer do any harm to anybody. It was 
the custom (and is sometimes now) at the three 
great festiyals oi the year, Christmas, Easter, and St. 
John's day, to place some pots of porridge outside the 
doors ready for their supper. When the old bridge was 
pulled down, several of these little earthen vessels were 
dug up among the foundations : they were quite empty- 
no remains — Cleaving people to imagine the little fellows 
had not only eaten their suppers, but had also enjoyed 
them. • 

^These sprites are grateful, too, and never forget a 
kindness; for a great nmny years ago there came a 
heavy faU of snow ; it lay so thick upon the ground, high 
as the moat which surrounded the chateau, no one could 
leave the house. The cattle were all safely housed 
in the farm-buildings, with the exception of six calves, 
who were lodged in a shed in a field some way 
oft After a fortnight's imprisonment the thaw came, 
and the fiEurm-laboufers set forth to remove, as they 
imagined, the frozen remains of the starved animals. 
Great was their surprise to find the little creatures 



200 VOSBORO. Chap. XUIL 

not only alive, but grown fat and flourishing, their 
stalls clean and well swept. The Kisses had taken 
care of them during the fortnight the snow lay upon 
the ground. But th^n, as the boers remarked, no wonder 
the Nisses looked after them, for the first time the 
calves had left the staUes the axe had been laid acrofis 
the threshold, and that always brings good luck. 

The stories about the Nisses resemble those of the 
German tales. They answer to our brownies — are par- 
ticular about where they take up their abode, and with 
whom — never with anybody less than a farmer. The 
cottagers and poorer people have only a familiar spuit; 
and when a woman chums more butter than her neigh- 
bours, when her hens lay more eggs, it is set down to 
her *^ familiar." Query, if this &miliar might not be 
e^lained by the two words industry and order f As 
for a Niss, he generally takes up his abode in the loft 
or under the bridge which spans the moat ; is a good 
friend to the household, but quarrels everlastingly with 
the watch-dog. If affronted he changes his abode, and 
going out after twilight accosts the passers-by—" Will 
you 'take a little boy into your service, who asks no 
wages; nothing but a pot of porridge on New-Year's 
Ever 

Then, too, there is the White Lady, who marches about 
the house, with her Paternoster in hand — ^no vice in 
her, she is only pale and sad ; but Long Margaret^ she's 
the person ; the very idea of her will make your blood 
run cold. It was in the year 1770, or thereabouts, that 
Long Margaret, or, as the peasants called her, " The 
Egyptian," wandered about the moors and heaths in 
the neighbourhood of Yosborg ; she told fortunes ; was 



Ceap. XLUI. tO^Q MARGARET. 201 

looked upon as a witch, appearing at all times when 
least expected ; no one liked her, though she was sup- 
posed to be quite harmless. 

She was well known to the surrounding neighbour- 
hood, at that time more thickly populated than now, 
for many of the ancient herregaards have since disap- 
peared. Towards the fidl of the year '69 rumours' 
became rife of murders committed; of yoimg girls 
being found dead oA the road-side, their throats cut^ 
and their hearts torn out. The greatest consternation 
prerailed : the authorities and the police were on the 
alert ; but as the bodies were unrifled of the gold and 
silver ornaments usually worn by the peasant girls, no 
clue could be given to the perpetrators of the deeds. 
No one ever suspected Long Margaret. 

Seven of these murders had been already committed^ 
when one day a pedlar girl, carrying her wares on her 
back, in passing down one of those very " dells " we 
drove through on our way to Hobr0, was suddenly 
seized by the long bony arms of the old Egyptian 
woman, cast on the ground, and an imsheathed knife 
presented to her throat. The girl screamed and 
struggled with her antagonist. ''Don't struggle so, 
little girl," remonstrates the old crone: "one little 
prick and all is over !" The poor child was gradually 
growing fiEunt, when two labourers driving their cattle 
along the valley, attracted by her cries, came to her 
assistance. Long Margaret escaped; but was later 
taken prisoner. " Oh !" she exclaimed to her captors, 
" had I only but devoured my ninth heart I should have 
been &r away beyond your reach I" 

On being questioned by her judges she cooUy in- 
formed them that she meant no harm; but, finding 



202 VOSBORO. Chap. XUn. 

herself growing old and injQrm, she was anxious to trans- 
form herself into a night raven, and fly ; that, according 
to the laws of necromancy, to procure such a boon she 
must first devour ''nine raw bleeding hearts," taken 
hot &om as many maiden breasts — symbolical of the 
nine hearts of Denmark, representing the nine syssels 
or counties of Jutland. She had already devoured her 
seventh, when the unlucky cries of the pedlar girl 
brought from the herdsmen the assistance which ended 
in her capture and condemnation. Long Margaret was 
not, however, doomed to the stake, as such a witch 
should have been — ^none were ever burnt in Jutland 
after the end of the seventeenth century — she merely 
lost her head like common mortals ; and they neglected 
to bury her remains in a moor, with a stake in her 
inside, as they ought to have done ; for she is said 
occasionally to make her appearance, and walk in the 
long passages of the wing of the chateau where she 
was imprisoned at Yosborg. 

Second-sight is as common in Jutland as in the 
Highlands of Scotland, particularly as regards ''the 
foretelling of fire." Bad luck to the owner of a mill 
whose conflagration is foretold by a "wise woman;" it 
invariably comes to pass. 

What excellent portraits you meet with in every 
private house in Denmark, and more so in Jutland than 
elsewhere, setting aside Juel, who really, by the number 
one comes across, must have painted with both hands at 
once ! This may, however, be easily accounted for by 
the number of pupils who studied in the atelier of 
every great Dutch master. Finding at first little or no 
employment in their own land, they were glad to make 
their "tour du monde,'' as the artisaDJS do that of 



Ghap. xliii chri^han lopberg. 208 

Europe. It is diflBcTilt to say where they did not extend 
their travels to, for in the Ethnological Museum at 
(Copenhagen exist several paintings of South Sea 
Islanders, executed by a pupil of Bembrandt. 

These young artists found good occupation for 
their brushes in the never-ending epitaphia of the 
churches, as well as in the family portraits in the old 
manors, and private houses of the provincial cities of 
Jutland There are few of the better portrait-painters 
who have not worked for the space of some years in 
Denmark — ^Mieris, Denner, Schalken — ^unluckily the 
names of the artists have seldom been preserved. 

At Yosborg we have many portraits, chiefly of pastors 
aind their wives, in starched ruffs and most military 
moustaches : among them one by Carl van Mander, of 
Christian Lodberg, Bishop of Bibe, and private tutor 
to our own Prince Consort, George of Denmark. 

Many of these early Protestant worthies led a queer 
life of it, giving, like many of their Bcouanist prede- 
cessors, la feurine (of their existence) au diable et le son 
au bon Dieu. Christian, son of a peasant in the pro- 
vince of Thy, was sent to school, and showed great 
talents early in life. His studies completed, he set out 
on his travels alone, and for want of cash served in the 
Spanish army at Naples, in the wars which succeeded 
the insurrection of Masaniello. He later fought under 
iixe Great Cond^ and on his return to his native country 
took orders. By means of powerful interest he be- 
came appointed tutor to Prince George, whom he declares 
to have been most amiable, but he never would or could 
learn anything. He accompanied the prince on his 
travels through the various courts of Europe for the 
space of four years, during which time he kept a most 



204 VOSBORG. Chap. XIIH. 

minute journal of all they saw, and the events which 
took place at the different courts they visited. When 
he departed for England poor " Est-il-possible," who had 
no memory, begged of his tutor the loan of the manu- 
8cript> "For," said he, "I shall never know what to talk 
to the foreign ambassadors about when they ask for 
audiences, or recollect who to inquire after, unless I am 
able to refresh my memory." 

So the worthy tutor, now bishop, lent his journal to 
his dull-witted pupil, and never got it back again ; a 
fact to be regretted, as a four years' tour through 
Europe, with all the minute details of visits to foreign 
courts in the seventeenth century, would now be of 
immense interest. Rrobably it is hidden away some- 
where among the royal archives. 

A very strict bishop, too, this vieux militaire be- 
came. He in his charge writes strict injunctions to his 
priests not to appear when "travelling" in secular 
clothes (which might be read with advantage by some 
of our own parsons one meets in shooting jackets on the 
Continent) — ^not to have intercourse with those who call 
themselves " diviners *' — ^profess to discover stolen 
goods — ^never to bless "necromancers," recalling to 
their memory how a certain priest, " Niels in Henne," 
who was accused of causing ships to be wrecked for his 
own advantage, had been burnt as a wizard, to the 
great scandal of the clergy, not many years since.* 



* Kot only were the parsons accused, and suffered from accnaationa 
of witchcraft, but ladies of high rank lost their heads. Christian IV, 
hated witchcraft from his heart's core. In 1608 he caused to be 
beheaded Mrs. Bridget Boeenkiantz ; and again, in 1621, in writing 
about the indictment of another suspected lady, he says, ** Gonoeni* 
ing this young lady, she must be strictly examined, and in no way 
spared ; when you can get no more out of her, cut off her head.*' She 



Chap. XLIII. HAVELOCK THE DANE. 205 

This warrior Bishop of Eibe was a maternal ancestor 
of the proprietor of Vosborg. His wife is really too 
ugly to look at — ^painted by the same master. The 
dergy, howeyer, of later date seem to have evinced 
better taste in the choice of their help-meets. 

The farm of Vosborg is the most considerable in 
aU Jutland. We are more in the grazing line here — 
beeves for the English market — ^but somehow or other, 
when in the library, poring among the old tomes, I for- 
got all about the faxm. 

We were talking over the English names, of which 
so many are to be met with in Denmark, when a lady, 
who devotes herseK to teaching in the poor schools of 
Copenhagen, told us of the intense interest taken by the 
school children during the Indian war in the fortunes 
of Sir Henry Havelock, our British general. 

The morning the news of his death arrived she found 
the whole of her school dissolved in tears, weeping 
their very hearts out, for they looked upon him as their 
own countryman — ^the very Havelock the Dane of the 
popular ballad — the lapse of nine or ten centuries 
being nothing to an injbnt mind. Sir Henry was more 
grieved over by the children of Denmark from this 
early nursery association than by those of the British 
Empire. The story of Havelock* is by the earliest 

^ms condemned to be executed, 9th January, 1623, and the proceeds 
of a legacy of 500 thalers of " decollate virginis " is still enjoyed by 
the nniyeTsity of Ck)penhagen. 

Peter Bognf0rre, curate of Bjergby in Vendsyssel, was accused of 
haying bewitched the parish priest of Asdal, who was suddenly seized 
with a fit of stammering whenever he entered the pulpit He was 
later summoned before King Christian, condemned to death, and burnt 
at the stake. 

* The Stort op Havelock the Dane. 

Ethelwald, King of England, had an only daughter, whom, at his 
death, he confided to the care of GU>drich Earl of ComwalL The 



2off vosBOKG. CHAP.xmr. 

French poet known, Geoffiroi Ganier, 1147, and styled 
Le Lai d'Avalok. 

Labour in this country is scarce, and every summer 
crowds of the German peasants come over like our 

PHncesa Guldborg was veiy beautiful, and when she attained ^be age 
of twenty, the time when she was to succeed to the kingdom of her 
father, the false earl determined on making his own son king. 
, At the same period the King of Denmark died under similar oir- 
cumstances, and bequeathed his children. Prince Havelock and his 
two sisters, to the protection of Godard, who, as the story says, " was 
the greatest scoundrel ever bom besides the traitor Judas.** He pnt 
the childr^i for three years in prison, where they suffered from oold 
and hunger; at last he put the daughters to death, and Havelock 
would have shared their fate had he not on his knees renounced his 
right to the crown of Denmark. But Godard soon repents his clemency, 
and gives him to his servant Grim to drown. He carries Havelock 
home to his hut tied up in a sack, to be thrown at night into the sea ; 
but a wonderful light over the boy alarms Grim and his wife ; they 
discover he is the son of their king, and determine to save him. 
Grim flies from Denmark with his family and Havelock : the wind 
carries the vessel to England, where Grim lands at the entrance of the 
Humber, ** in Lindesey, at the north side." Here he builds a hou£e 
and lives by fishing. The place was called Grimsby, and it is a curious 
fact that the to^n of Grimsby, founded by Grim, enjoyed in early days 
exemption from payment of the Sound-duties at Elsinore. Havelock 
assists Grim in his work, and in a year of scarcity goes to Uncohi, 
where he is employed by Earl Godrich's cook. 

When the earl sees Havelock he determines to marry him to the 
Princess Guldborg, and thus Ailfil the promise he had given her father, 
to get for her the strongest and handsomest man in England. Fearing 
treachery from Earl Gk)drich, Havelock and liis bride leave linoohi 
for Grimsby. Grim was dead, but his five children are well off, and 
receive them kindly. Guldborg is told of the royal birth of Havelock 
(in a dream), and " when from joy she awakes her husband with a 
kiss,** he tells her a singular dream he had liad himself, which Guld- 
borg explains as foretelling he should be king. Havelock, accom- 
panied by Grim's sons, goes to Denmark, where he is recognised by 
Ubbe, who declares in his favour. Godard is taken and condemned, 
and Havelock proclaimed King of Denmark. He returns to England, 
conquers Earl Godrich in a battle at Grimsby, and is proclaimed King 
of England. King Havelock rewards those who had done him service: 
Grim's daughter, Gunhild, he marries to the Earl of Chester ; tlie cook, 
his old master, be creates Earl of ComwaU; and Ubbe becomes 
Stadtholder of Denmark, &o. &c. 



Chap. XLin. CHRISTMAS-EVE CUSTOMS. 207 

Xriflh haymakers to aid in the gathering in of the 
harrest. The peasants here have a pretty tradition: 
'^That as the dock strikes twelve on Christmas- 
eve the cattle all rise together, and stand straight 
upright in their staUs." On that day, too, the cows 
in the stables, as well as the horses, are fed with the 
best of everything — hay, com, and beans; and all is 
made tidy before four o'clock. As for the watch-dog, 
he fares better than anybody. The housewife goes 
into the courtyard, removes his chain, and, bringing 
him to the house, first cuts off from the long brown 
loaf a slice of bread, which she gives to him, saying, 
"Here's for my huusbond, and here's for me;" and 
next she cuts off one for each of the children — " Here's 
for Kette, and here's for Hans," — ^and then chops one into 
three pieces for the " trillinge,"* of which there is sure 
to be a set in the cradle. When he has finished these slices 
she gives him his rightful supper as well, adding, " Now, 
good dog, you shall run loose this night, for in a season 
when there is peace and good will upon earth you will 
surely harm no one." Nowhere is this good old custom 
of keeping Christmas kept up so pleasantly as in Jut- 
land, where even the little birds are not forgotten, 
for a small whealrsheaf is laid in the garden over-night 
on Christmas-eve, that they may also eat, be fiill, and 
rejoice. 

We walked where Skamm church once stood — all is 
a desert — ^nothing will now grow there — for it was 
once a convent. 

No one in Jutland loved to remove the first stone of 



• I greatly approve of the justice of the Jutland " huustra " io 
dividing the portion of the " trillinge.** If children come in a lump 
they should be made to count as one in the diyision of the property. 



208 VOSBORO. Chap. XLIH. 

a sacred building, for he who did so was accursed : when 
once the mischief was done^ you might continue the 
work, and no harm come to you. Now, the materialB 
of Skamm church and cloister were most tempting to 
the lords of Norre Vosborg; but no one would risk 
his soul's weal, and remove the first stone of the 
ruined chapeL At last a young man, who had served 
in foreign parts, excited by liquor, went out in the dead 
of night, brought in a huge stone, and cast it in the 
court of Vosborg. When sober he was seized with 
terror and remorse: and hanged himself the same 
night. No suicide can enjoy the rites of Christian 
burial ; bo his corpse was fastened across the backs of 
two cows, who fled towards the mose, where they sank 
in, and were all immersed together; and the holes 
are there stUL 

Now, however, the lords of the manor pulled down 
the chapel with safety, but no one dared touch the 
altar-stone ; for there sat a huge black dog, and howled 
piteously at all who approached ; so the altarnstone lay 
for many a year, till the war against the Swedes in the 
seventeenth c.entury, when troops were quartered in 
the castle. One evening as they sat before the fire in 
the great hall, a private related to them this story ; and 
a corporal who was there, who feared neither God nor 
man, declared the devil might have him if he did not 
bring home that altar-stone; and, what's more, he 
would take his little daughter with him.' The child 
trembled, and cried, " Oh, father, leave me !" but he 
dragged her on ; and when he saw the dog on the stone 
he cried out, "Come forth, you black devil!" Then 
the dog, growing greater and greater, seized the man 
with his teeth and between his paws, and the corporal 



cbap. xliu. the corporal akd his child. 209 

died, ** Child, pray for me, and I will give you a new 
gown." So the little girl commenced the Lord's 
Prayer, the only one she knew — ^it was not her father 
who had tanght her that^ but the scullion, a poor 
peasant girl, of the castle. As she prayed fervently 
the dog grew less and less, and at last sunk down into 
the stone and disappeared. From that day the man 
turned over a new leaf, became pious and well con- 
ducted ; the little girl got her new gown ; as for the 
altar-stone, it remains there now, and you may still see 
it, as we did, untouched. 



voL,n. 



210 HEB. Chap. XLIV. 



CHAPTER XLIV. 

The< bells of Thim — Gyldenstieme of Thimgaaid — ^oorhouse of 
Bingk}0biDg — Old rat of Hee— Threshing to the soond of music. 



HEE. 
July \Wu — ^We qtdtted our kind entertainer this 
morning at ten. The Professor was abeady oflf early 
to an agricultural meeting on the road; and after 
much leaye-taking and thanks for hospitality, we 
started, as fast as our host's four horses coidd carry us, 
on our road; first stopping at the kroat Hee, where we 
found not only Mr. Tang, but our old acquaintance 
Count Schulin, the amtmaa, all busily engaged dis- 
cussing some new improi^ement in the fabrication of 
butter — ^very unnecessary, for, talk for ever, they will 
never make it better than they do in Jutland. 

They have an abominable custom in this country, that 
of selling the old gravestones from the churchyardfl, 
when the families are extinct : it is downright sacrilege, 
and is the only case in which the love of " bon mareh6 '* 
has got the better of the hereditary superstition of the 
natives. Here the three steps of the kro are formed of 
three separate " In piam memoriams," — cherubim, 
hourglasses, and floriated crosses, trodden under foot 
The same custom exists at Thisted. In the town street 
at Holstrebro a pile of ten were lying in a comer of 
the church cemetery, some really of considerable 
beauty, waiting to be purchased. It is a villaaous 



Chap. XLIV. THIM. 211 

practice, and a disgrace that the Goyemment should 
allow il* 

We turned in to look at the granite round-arch 
church of Hee, built by Bishop Hay (as his name waa 
then spelt) in the twelfth century — a granite model of 
the cathedral church of Bibe : when the parish of Bo 
was suppressed they carried the church of Noe and 
built it up against Hee. Later we pass on our road 
that of Thim, celebrated for its stolen beU, the finest 
toned in all Jutland. 

TfflM^ 
It was in some war with the Swedes that Peter 
Gyldenstieme, struck by the tone of these bells, deter- 
mined to obtain them by some way or another. So he 
consulted all the villagers how to get them down without 
injury to the church-tower. No one could, or rather 
no one would, assist him, till a countryman presented 
himself before him, saying,* "Provide for my wife 
and children, and I will show you how to manage the 
matter." Peter consents ; the peasant causes two lofty 
hillocks of sand to be erected, and then cutting the 
chains lets the beUs fiEdl down gently, one after the 
other. The plan succeeded, and the man claims his 
reward. " Yes," answers Gyldenstieme, " I will perform 
my promise and provide handsomely for your wife and 
children ; but for yourself^ a traitor to your country, 
you shall take the place of the bells." So he strung 
him up to the church-tower. One bell arrived in 
Jutland safe, and was hung up in the tower of Thim 
(diurch ; but the second came to grief, and was ship- 



* I undenfand a law is about to be passed forbidding this custom. 

p 2 



212 RINGKJ0BmO. Chap.XLIV. 

wrecked off the coasts by the Nissum Fiorde, It 
fell, however, tongue uppermost, and lies imbedded in 
the sand; when the tide is low on a summer's eye, 
its music may still be heard by the fishermen who ply 
their crafts on the water; such music, so beautifiiU 
they say the like was never heard. As for the other 
bell, her tones are sad and melancholy : no wonder — 
she wants to come down to her sister. 

Thimgaard was a splendid castle, but has lately dis- 
appeared, and is now in the hands of peasants. King 
Frederic 11. here often visited rich Peter Gylden- 
stieme, who dearly loved all pomp and state. The 
twelve stones on which his twelve retainers, in goigeous 
liveries, stood bowing to the grotmd each time ho 
quitted his house, still stand in their ancient places. 

Peter Gyldenstieme was grandson to the cousin of 
Torben Oxe, who caused poor Dyveke's stone to be 
removed &om the church of Elsinore, and placed at the 
entrance of his manor of Thimgaard, to be " spat upon *' 
by each peasant as he went by the gate. When Thim 
manor passed into other hands the stone was sent to 
Copenhagen, and stupidly placed among the Bunic 
stones of the Bound Tower. 

RINGKJ0BING. 
We leave the Nissum Fiorde, about to be drained on 
the Haarlem principle by English capital, under the di- 
rection of two engineers. Without wishing to prophesy 
evil, I pity the shareholders and their money, dependent 
on the caprice of the North Sea and west wind on this 
most incomprehensible coast of Jutland. We have a 
village of Hammet not far off; and now we approach 
Bingkj0bing, near which, an island in the fiorde, lies the 



Chap. XLIV.t' INN OF THE OLDEN TIME. 213 

green flolmsland, with its two white churches, the most 
fertile meadow-land in all the surrounding country. 

Very small this town appears as we drive on, the capital 
of a county, too. We reach the square. The hotel stands 
before us, an old carved timber house, its windows 
shaded by a row of ancient clipped elms. " Well," ex- 
claims one of the family, " here is a picturesque old 
inn, the first we have yet come too : do look too at the 
iron-work of the bell — ^a rose, aud that wreath of leaves 
and border — how charming !** only it does not ring. 

7hie%dayy Jviy 19<A. — ^We are quite glad of a rest; 
and there is nothing in the world so charming as a 
hostel of the olden time, externally. As for the interior, 
I am not quite so sure of the feict: scrub those old 
worm-eaten boards for ever they will never look cleau ; 
and as for the beams, only walk across the room and 
the dust pours down from the ceiling — ^better in water- 
colours than in reality. 

There is not much to see in Eingkj0bing — ^indeed 
nothing at alL Its palmy days are over. The opening 
of the Agger Canal destroyed its commerce, at one time 
(in the days of Peter Tang) considerable, with Holland 
and other countries ; but we were glad of a couple of 
days' rest, and passed them very pleasantly in the 
society of our friends Count and Countess Schulin and 
their charming family. 

Having nothing particular to do, I accompanied the 
Pr^fet to the town-house, and visited the new prison- 
airy, clean, and ventilated to perfection, quite a pleasure 
to be incarcerated therein — and then visited the city 
** fettighuus," which you must not confuse with an " hos- 
pital or almshouse ;" it answers to our "union," and is 



214 RINGKJ0BINO. t Chap. XLIV. 

the property of the commune, who, as in England, are 
compelled to support their own poor. 

It consists of a long one-storied building, divided 
into good, airy, well-sized rooms, two beds in each. The 
married people are not separated; in one chamber 
lay an aged couple, whose united ages must have 
amounted to well nigh two centuries, bedridden both, 
on a sea of feather-beds, of exquisite cleanliness, grar 
dually burning out the remaining oil of their expiring 
lamps together, side by side, the younger members erf 
the community attending to their wants and comforts ; 
but when their agony draws nigh they remove fix>ni 
under their heads the "feather" pillow, otherwise their 
death would be hard and their straggles long. Then 
there was a work-room, where aged women were busy 
spinning flax and carding wool; and the kitchen in 
which they dine together — ^in the morning, coffee and 
bread and butter ; for dinner, a soup and one dish of 
meat ; of an evening, tea and 8m0r brod. A range of 
hams hung round the ceiling beams. The workhouse 
is not popular, and no one comes in unless quite obliged. 
The inhabitants are allowed each Sunday four hours' 
leave of absence, and generally, I am sorry to say — so 
the superintendent told me — return intoxicated, not 
with joy, but with liquor. And now, says the matron 
(opening a door), here is the room in which we lay them 
out when dead ; see the trestles all ready — ^how very 
nice !— everything so convenient. 

I dare say you imagine we were eaten up with rats 
at our old hotel. You are quite mistaken — ^not such a 
thing to be met with in the country between Skjem-aa 
and Stor-aa, if you hunt for ever; and I'll tell you 



Chap. XLIV.^ OLD RAT OF HEE. 215 

how it occurred^ for less than a century ago the whole 
land was oyerrun, and Bingkj0bmg most of alL 

There arrived one day in the port a vessel from 
Finmark in Norway. The captain came on shore, and 
confided to the care of a merchant a sack of clothes, to 
be left till called for in his warehouse. 

On returning after an absence of some days, he finds 
bis goods nearly destroyed by the rats. The merchant 
declares it is- not his feult — ^we are overrun with them. 
"Would you like to get rid of themP' inquires the 
stranger. " Indeed it would be a blessiag," answers the 
merchant So the stranger takes a book from his pocket, 
and begins to read aloud. From his tone you might have 
imagined it to be the ' Church Service,' only he com* 
menced at the wrong end and read backwards. No 
sooner had he begun than all the rats in the town, all 
the rats from the fstrms, water and land rats, come 
running as hard as they can go, belter skelter, tumbling 
into the fiorde and drowniog themselves. All the world 
stood amazed ; at last they arrive more slowly ; and 
now at the end comes an aged rat, so old, so rheumatic 
he can hardly crawL " Are you the last ?" inquires the 
wizard, for such he must have been. " Last but one,'' 
he replied : " no one remains but my fetther's brother, 
the old rat of Hee, and he'll be here soon." And 
come he did — an old rat, white as snow : dragging him* 
self to the water-side, he plunged into the fiorde, the 
last of his race, since which time none have ever been 
met with in this part of the Amt of Bingkj0bing. 

This evening, after dining with our Mends, we walked 
ont into the fields near their house, to witness the 
process of threshing the rape in the open air to the 
sound of music. A small threshing-fioor, with eight 



216 RINGKJ0BING. Chap. XLIV. 

men hard at work beating with all their might and 
main; behind, a pile, moimtain-high, of the refnae 
straw, or whatever they call it. A cart drawn by one 
horse, mounted by a bare-le^ed urchin, brings up the 
material, which is tumbled oyer on to the floor ; then^ 
as it Mis, the fiddle strikes up a slow melody of marked 
time, not unlike the well-known air of * Boy's Wife ' — 
bang, bang, go the flails in correct continued measure. 
Then when the heap is battered down he suddenly 
changes to a more cheerful strain, strikes up a Scotch 
reel, or something very like one. Bang, bang, go 
the flails in a crescendo movement, the threshers 
bursting out into a loud chorus every now and then, 
shouting out like the dancers of the Highland fling. 
This music relieves the weight of their labour — ^the 
labourers seem to enjoy it, and work away con amore. 

The harvest-home was to have taken place some two 
days later, at which period there is much dancing and 
" storr gambell," as the old ballads express it, which 
may easily be translated by the most ignorant of Scan- 
dinavian language as ^^ great gambols." 

The, peasants dance a sort of reels interspersed with 
the most intricate figures. According to the old custom, 
one of the party sings the couplet of a ballad, something 
like " Liden Kirsten," or " Dronning Dagmar lies sick in 
Bibe," — ^most deadly lively ; the rest of the party join in 
chorus and then dance, after the manner of Brittany. 

July 2Qth, — ^We commence by a country cultivated 
in stripes — ^potatoes, com, and buckwheat — ^followed 
up by a long expanse of heath; pass to the right 
Deiberg, where the gipsy tribe possess their own 
peculiar forms ; red kro in succession to red kro, till 
we arrive at a network of running streams near the 



Chap. XLIV. EMBARK FOR FAN0. 217 

village of Edgvad by Tarm-kjajr, in one of which 
stumbled the horse of King John. He broke his leg, 
and was carried in a litter to Holstrebro ; from thence 
he was removed to Aalborg, where he died. A very 
dull road on to Varde, a small town of no con- 
sequence. Yet it had once its own event) for here in 
1534 was captured by surprise Skipper Hermann, boon 
companion to Skipper Clemens, by John Bantzau, and 
the revolution extinguished in the southern part of 
Jutland more successfully than it was in the northern 
counties. But we have two miles farther over the bank 
to Strandby, where we embark for the island of Fan0. 
Plenty of partridges here. We meet a yoke of oxen 
dressed out in straw collars, with star-like points, 
like a Brahmin idol. We reach the ferry — ^boat arrives 
after an hour's delay — ^are carried out to sea in a 
boer's cart, and then embarked ; the luggage arranged, 
our cart has to unload the boat, fiUed with fresh- 
dried stock-fish, the produce of the island : haddock, 
cod, and skate, all neatly done up into packets^ One 
hundred and five are counted out ; then another carriage 
arrives : we embark some peasant women, in their quaint 
costume ; the men tuck up their breeches and wade 
out to save their skiUings— just a little too deep— the 
tide is rising, so they scramble in wet and uncomfortable. 
In half an hour we disembark at Fan0, 



218 FAN0. Chap. XLV. 



CHAPTER XLV. 

Island of Fan^— YolnminotiB petticoats and blaok masks of the 
peasant women — Their Oriental character and Dutch cleanlineflB — 
Queen Thyre wrecked off the Isle of Man — Amber-^theiiDg. 



ISLAND OF FAN0. 

Jvly 21«^. — ^May be you have never heard of Faii0 : 
it lies situated nearly opposite to the little seaport 
town of Hjerting, from whose harbour in summer season 
runs a beeve-bearing steamer to the coast of England, 
with supplies for that most voracious of gastronomic 
whirlpools, the London market. Fan0 is a long narrow 
piece of land, not unlike a high-heeled bottine in shape, 
delicately pointing its toe under the direction of some 
feshionable maitre de ballet. 

Of late years it has less the resemblance, or rather is 
the ghost, of a bathing establishment, frequented by quiet 
humdrum people, seekers of health, not pleasiu^e, who 
lodge in the two small hotels of the place. Disem- 
barked at a certain J0rgensen's, where we found clean 
comfortable quarters and good food : you might have 
eaten your dinner off the floor, had it not been for the 
sand. It is quite re&eshing to again meet with the 
Dutch cleanliness we had quite left behind on quitting 
the Liimfiorde, making always an exception for Yarde. 

Fan0 is one of the few places which sticks to its 
ancient habits and costumes, and has remained stationary 
for the last thousand years. The costume of the women 



chap.xlv. voluminous petticoats. 219 

is highly curious. We are now in the land of petti- 
coats — ^not crinolines, but good, substantial, coloured 
•woollen petticoats— of which the fair inhabitants, and 
Tery fisdr they are, wear an indefinite number, from 
seven upwards, according to the solemnity of the occa- 
«ion. They tell of a bride who appeared at the altar 
aknost fiunting under the weight of her thirteen — 
but she was "somebody*' — such a wedding, the old 
people said, had not been seen for many a day. Thir- 
teen petticoats reminded them of the times of their 
grandmothers when they were young. 

As we crossed over last night in the ferry-boat a 
peasant girl stood leaning over the^ cargo talking away 
to the watermen, her back turned towards me ; so I 
inspected her "bearings." Her outermost garment 
was of green woollen, bound round with black velvet 
gathered in flat plaits round the waist ; then came a blue, 
afterwards a red, which she should have worn outside, 
for it looked very smart. On arriving at the red she 
moved, so I had to cease my researches, but commenced 
again later. Well, the red was followed up by a brown, 
then came a yellow, then a second blue— dingy blue, 
quite right to wear it undermost — ^then came — never 
mind what — and lastly a pair of legs, very neat-turned 
ankles, clothed in purple worsted stockings, with no 
feet to them. She wore a black velvet jacket, orna- 
mented with filigree buttons, and a foulard twisted 
round her head. 

But the oddest custom of all is that of wearing a 
black mask, similar to those worn at the bal masqu^, 
minus the bavolet, when working out in the fields. 
The men are occupied on the high seas, or fishing ; 
on returning, they eat, drink, and sleep, never leaving 



220 FAN0. Chap. XLV. 

their beds till they set off on a new ei:pedition. It 
was the same at Skagen and at Agger. The women 
perform aU the heavy work at home — ^but not at the 
expense of their complexions. Anything more ludi- 
crous cannot be imagined than a troop of these black- 
masked creatures returning home, driving their cows 
from the downs. It seems to affect the ewes, too, for 
we met several new-bom lambs white as the driven 
snow, with black masks exactly like their mistresses* 

The children are very handsome, and the girls, at the 
cottage windows, prettier than anything we have come 
across for many a day. They have quite an Oriental 
type of countenance — long eyes, dark, fendu a Tamande^ 
aquiline nose, fine and delicate mouth, a dark but bril- 
liant complexion; even the fashion of the masks (though 
our grandmothers of the eighteenth century never 
walked or "rode " out without wearing these "loups," 
as they were then termed) give the impression as if 
they were some remnant of customs imported from an* 
Eastern land ; and what with the Varangians and early 
connexion with Turkey, it is not at aU impossible that 
it may be so. 

The village we are now dwellmg in ia that of Nordby ; 
not desirable as a residence ; it is too like Skagen, all 
sand to walk upon, or rather wade in. The second 
village at the extreme end of the island is called 
S0nderbo. On arriving at Nordby we were surprised 
to find straw laid down in every direction. Very 
refined, remarked one of the party, quite like Bel- 
gravia; some Fan0 bride, no doubt, just brought to 
bed of a son and heir ; when, as we proceeded on our 
way, the straw increased in thickness, and the wheels 
glided softly over it> we discovered our mistake — ^it was 



CHiP. XLV» PRODUCE OF SANDY SOIL. 221 

scattered on the sandy road to prevent the cart-wheels 
sinking into the ruts, a most admirable arrangement, 
and not an expensiye one ; it proved to be that of the 
sand-reed,* with which the dunes are planted, serving 
the double purpose of binding the sand-hills and 
improving the roads. 

The land in the neighbourhood of this village is in 
good cultivation. People talk a great deal of nonsense 
about " sandy soil, nothing will grow in it ;" everything 
almost seems to flourish in it if tried. The evergreen 
oak, the fig, the mulberry, prefer it ; the buckwheat, 
corn, and rye thrive ; and as for the potato-fields, it is 
a pleasure to look at them. The only manure here 
used in quantity is the dog-fish and other coarse fish 
cast upon the strand or taken in the nets of the 
fishers. 

It was an eight miles' drive to S0nderbo, a village 
more Dutch-like in its character even than its sister : 
the houses have a peculiar, neat^ trim appearance, and 
the gardens, each of them surrounded by a hedge of 
what people in England call the ^^tea^plant^" which 
thrives here to perfection, and resists the fiiry of the 
wind — whose leaves, may be, furnished the beverage 
supplied for our breakfiEist this morning. 

Most of the houses are decorated with figure-heads, 
some with very antique carvings, relics of ill-fated ships 
wrecked off this most inhospitable coast. 

I looked in at some of the cottage doors. The inte- 
riors responded to the rest of the building — ^a grand 
display of crockery — old Delft plates — and in the 
centre of each rack, shining bright as gilded gold. 



* Anindo arenaria. 



222 FAN0. Chap. XLV. 

one of those old repousse plates once nsed for sermg 
bridal cakes at the weddiog feast, but now, my in- 
formant said, quite old-fiashioned. 

A tradition of Fan0 relates that in days of yore 
Queen Thyre Danebod was wrecked off this coast, 
and on her arrival from England first set foot on 
Danish ground in the adjoining '^Isle of Man," spelt 
just Uke our own island of the Irish Channel, which 
was once also a Danish possession.* Here on her first 
arrival from England, mark, was Queen Thyre wrecked, 
which leads us to suppose she was, as old Saxo Gram- 
maticus declares, a daughter of King Ethelred, tliough 
the Danes now deny it — old Gorm was much too sen- 
sible to lug women about on his expedition against King 
Alfred. In gratitude, a ** thankoffering " for her pre- 
servation, she gave sundry fields to the church of Man : 
fields covered with buildings, so they say, which are to 
this present day called Man0 H0lade ; to the church of 
Ean0 she presented a font of granite. We entered the 

* In 1266 MagnoB, 0on of Hakon, King of Norway, concluded s 
treaty with Alexander in. of Scotland, by which he yielded to him, 
in perpetuity, the Hebrides and the Isle of Man, with the patronage of 
the bishopric. The prelates of the Isle of Han had no seat in the 
British House of Peers, for, tiU the Beformation, they acknowledged- 
as their metropolitan the Archbishop of Tronyem, and had until the 
taming over to Sweden of the kingdom of Norway, and may, for what 
1 know, still have, a right to a seat in the Stor-thing of that country, 
though, as may be imagined, the right was seldom exercised. Endlees 
were the negociations entered upon between the Scottish and the 
Danish sovereigns as regards the islands of Sodor and Man, and it 
was some years before the whole affair was amicably arranged by the 
marriage of the Princess Margaret to James HI. So careful, however, 
were they of their rights, that a clause was entered into the marriage 
contract, by which the princess in case of widowhood is forbidden to 
marry the King of England, or any subject of that nation, that they 
(these islands) may never Ml under the power of the English sovereign. 
We got them, however, after all. 



Chap. XLV. AMBER-GATHERING. 223 

church, a modem building, erected after the taste of the 
inhabitants; and there it stands — circular, misshapen, 
and rudely hewn — quite old and primitive enough to 
have been the gift of Queen Thyre. But Queen Thyre 
does not seem to have been the only person wrecked 
off this isle, if you may judge from the flotilla of little 
boats suspended to the beams of the village church* 
Many are very ancient, and some are as late as the 
years '45 and '63. The Lutheran Church does not reject, 
it appears, these thankofferings of the shipwrecked 
mariners. 

The people here, as they do at Skagen and other 
sandy places, cultivate the melon ; but the working of 
amber is their staple trade. Quantities of it are picked 
up off their coasts. Whether the laws are as arbitrary 
as on the shores of Pomerania, where amber is a royal 
monopoly, and gibbets were planted on the beach-side 
ready to string up the offenders who should pilfer the 
royiJ waife, I do not know ; but they work it well and 
with taste. We returned home to a late dinner, and 
start to-morrow early for Bibe. 



224 BIBE. Chap. XLVL 



CHAPTEE XLVL 

Bibe Cathedral — The anchorite Bishop — Sacred theatricals— Bibe 
** ret " — Sumptuary laws — Bridal trousseau of the eighteenth century 
— Bagged schools of the middle ages — Death of Queen I>agmar — 
Queen Agnes at Bibehuus— Funeral of Marak Stig — The robber's 
bride — Legend of Tovelil — A Tinghuus — The werewolf and the 
nightmare — The night-raven and the basilisk — Monument to the 
heroes of Fredericia — Farewell to Jutland. 



BIBE. 

Friday y July 22nd. — ^We again cross our ferry. Horses 
ordered in advance, but not ready ; the boer-cart fetches 
us in the water, and lands us at the kro — strax. Stras 
— ^how I abominate that word ! The carriage is however 
there, but when that is loaded, and not before, do they 
harness the horses, and when the horses are at last 
harnessed then they make out the ''time seddel." And 
the postihon? coming strax, gone to dress himsell 
Why, it's the very old man who's been loitering about 
with a pipe in his mouth, as composed as if he was 
going nowhere. We are off, a tiresome, dull, uninter- 
esting drive^ of twenty English miles. Let no one ever 
take the west coast of Jutland, from the Liimfiorde' 
downwards ; it does not repay. We have amused our- 
selves well enough with visits to our various friends, 
and a good dose of historical associations — ^history 
mixed up with locality and legend, as it should be. 
Danes, wise in their own conceit, are apt to consider 
they do the world a service in disproving the traditions 




CATHEDRAL, RIBE. 



\0L II. IV 



Cbap. XLVL the cathedral. 225 

of centuries ; but they find out nothing new ; npeet old 
associations, deprive tiieir history of its romance, which, 
if not true, is at least, as the proverb says, ^* ben trovato." 
The weather is piping hot, and onr horses, fresh &om 
the fields and not in the best condition, are suffering 
in consequence. We bread them at one hro, hay and 
water them at a second, always keeping to our chaoss^e 
time of five miles an hour. Then the tower of Bibe 
Domkirke appears in sight Another kro— more water. 
"There," says the old postilion, "look at that river; 
here we are in Jutland." On the other side Slesvig, 
or^ as the Danes delight to call it. South Jutland. The 
world and his wife are now a haymaking ; such forks, 
too, as they are 1— our own Plantagenet portcuUis with 
a handle tacked on it ; — ^it seems to make very good 
hay all the same. We at last arrive at Bibe, cross the 
river by a wooden bridge, and, driving through her 
narrow quaint old streets, lodge at an hotel on the Place 
opposite the cathedral. 

Bibe, as you aU of course know, is one of the most 
ancient cities of Jutland ; for somehow or other we are 
in Jutland stilL ii^e forms a little well-watered oasis 
in the duchy of Slesvig, what we call a peculiar in 
England, in the same manner as the Pope holds Bene* 
vento, in the centre of the kingdom of Naples. 

The great lion is her Domkirke, without exce^ion 
the finest church in Jutland. Like most of these 
northern edifices, its exterior — a mixture of granite, 
sandstone, and brickwork — is not highly attractive. 
After a lapse of time the»colour of the brickwork pales, 
while the sandstone and granite darken, the origiQal 
contrast is lost, and the whole becomes a smudge. The 
lofty square tower is imposing from its height. The in- 

YOI*. U. Q 



22d' MBE. Chap. XLVI. 

tenor lias been lately restored, and is very interesting 
from the nnifomuty of its style, the earliest ronnd-eick 
period The cathedral consists of nave and double aides, 
the outer one of a later date. Under the clerestory 
imdow runs a fine Norman arcade of triple arches, 
surmounted by the shark-tooth ornament. We mounted 
to inspect them, and found large spacious loggie, mth 
yaulted roofl The columns which support the nave are 
square. Then comes the choir, to which you ascend by 
four steps, with lofty dome, separated from the transepts 
by the light carved stalls, and then by three steps more 
you reach the round apse, which terminates the building. 
Here is placed an altar with gilded cross and candelabra 
tripod — taste of the Empire, merging into the classic 
of Christian Vin.'s time under Thorvaldsen's reign. 
They should all be sent to the right about^ being highly 
out of character with the building they are destined 
to adorn. The contrast between the da^k granite and 
the white walls is good, but the apse spoils the whole 
eflfect of the building by its poverty and glaring white- 
ness. The church, however, viewed from the right of 
the altar, is very effective, and may rank high among 
the cathedrals of the north, an architecture apart frx>m 
that of England, France, and Germany. The art of 
ancient glazing is entirely lost in Denmark, and the 
windows of their fine ecclesiastical as well as of their 
domestic buildings are entirely spoiled by the modern 
square panes of glass, arranged without any attention 
to the date of the edifice. 

The cathedral church of Eite is built on the highest 
ground of the city, called the Liliebierg. This eminence 
did not, however, preserve it from the effects of the 
great inundation of 200 years smce, when the watet 



Chap. XL VI. THE ANCHORITE BISHOP, 227 

stood five feet in the naye^ and lire fish, says a moiikish 
calendar, were caught in the refectory of one of the 
monasteries. As for its antiquity — Anscarius himself is 
said in 850 to have built there a very small church ; but 
the first stone edifice was founded in King Niels* time, 
and all authorities admit it to be the most ancient 
cathedral in the kingdom. Two kings sleep within its 
walls — ^Erik Emun,* brother of Knud Lavard, and 
King Christopher, youngest of the unlucky offspring of 
King Valdemar the Victorious ; but their monuments, 
if ever they had any, have long since disappeared. 
An alabaster stone covers the remains of the latter, 
but no inscription is visible. In the chapels of the 
transepts are still to be seen the granite archways 
under which the altars once stood>-chapels dedicated 
to the lasfruamed sovereign and his Queen Margaret 

The sentiment of " Nolo Episcopari " does not appear 
to have been carried out in the Papal days of the diocese 
of Bibe, as it is in our modem Anglican ChurcL Once 
the canons of the cathedral could not agree in their choice 
of a bishop ; so they addressed themselves to a poor 
and humble monk, Peter of Baa Ager, an anchorite, and 
begged him to indicate to them an honest man, and 
they would swear to accept his nominee. ** Since ye, 
toy very good masters, will have me, poor simple man 
that I am, to appoint your bishop, Peter of Eaa Ager 



* A sovereign who, not appioying of collateral branches too nearly 
allied to the saccession, pnt to death his own brother Harald, in revolt, 
itmnst be owned, against him, and his eleven sons— one, Olaf, escaped 
in woman's clothes, and became King of Norway, On the other hand, 
Erik revenged promptly the murder of Ennd Lavard, deposed King 
Niels, and ended by ascending the throne in his stead. A fine battle 
they had for it ; five bishops and sixty priests were numbered among 
fhe slain* 

q2 



228 BIBE. Chap. ZLYL 

ahall be the man. I have always heard that he who 
bears the cross, crosses first himsell" And he became 
Bishop of Bibe. 

The monmnent of the last Popish prelate, old Bishop 
Munk, stands imbedded in the wall of the outer arch, 
in all the pomp of mitre, crosier, and episcopal robes. 
Here reappear the three roses of the Monks, and a star 
of Gyldenstieme. He married a lady of that family, 
and embraced the Protestant &ith to please King 
Christian (to say nothing of the convent of Tyis), 
Whether it be matrimony or the Beformation, never 
did portly ecclesiastic look so thoroughly overcome by 
his feelings as he does on the tombstone erected to hia 
memory. We have also Hans Tausen, second Protes- 
tant Bishop of Ribe — ^first his portrait, in an ermine 
tippet, sour as verjuice ; and then comes his epitaph, 
well worn by the feet of passers by, but now imbedded 
in the wall. It is to be hoped he did not compose it 
himself — "1. 1. 1.," — for it is a very conceited one. 

Then we have no more monuments of general interest, 
no new names, save those of Holt and " Ostvald,'* oor 
Scottish Oswald, on an old well-worn stone. We mount 
the tower, a necessary evil in a flat country if you wish 
to know its whereabouts. Passing through a narrow 
carved oak doorway of Bishop Monk's day, bearing his 
three roses, we mount ladder upon ladder, and then 
through a trap-door we arrive in open air again- 
country flat as a pancake, green as the Emerald Isle ; 
running streams surround the tower on three sides, the 
North Sea in the distance ; meadow as far as eye can 
extend — ^nothing but meadow. In front towards the 
city stands a mound, the site of historic BibehuusL 
As regards 0prors, Bibe seems to have been lucky in 



Chap.XLVI. "RIBE ret.- 229 

tlie middle ages, less worried than most places; but 
she made up for her exemption by the plague of fire 
and water, to say nothing of the black pest She 
bore, however, these matters jauntily, for in the year 
1577 — ^the year betwixt an " over-swimming," a black 
pest, and a conflagration — ^the comedy of * Susanna and 
the Elders' was played with great applause by the 
Bector of the High School and his pupils. These 
sacred theatricals continued until very late in the 
North of Europe. In 1712 the * Creation* was played 
before the Swedish Jdng at Alalm0, but the madiinery 
got out of order, and the rose refused to blow. 

Though Eibe possessed Gray Brothers and Black 
Brothers, she could not vie with Viboig in sanctity; 
so she took a peculiar line of her own, and piqued her- 
self on her police and her justice. " Ribe Ret>" as it was 
called, although most wholesome and effective in sup- 
pressing crime and misdemeanour, was considered so 
severe, it became a proverb, ** that they only sent those 
to Bibe for justice who were ripe for hanging ;" and the 
old saying ran — ** Thank God, my son! you did not 
come before the justice of Bibe, cried the old woman 
when she saw her son on the gallows of Vaarde.** 
In Bibe, too, was erected a gallows of stone — a 
gallows of aristocratic pretensions, on which no one 
but a "bom burgher" was allowed the privilege of 
hanging. 

Nothing could be more arbitrary than these "by-lovs " 
(municipal laws) of Bibe. A burgomaster was allowed 
to invite twenty-four couples to his wedding, with their 
daughters, and twelve young men to dance with the 
girls. Should the young ladies preponderate, so much - 
the worse: they must sit stilL Only six dishes for 



230 RIBE* Chap.XLVL 

dinner, and so on in proportion to the rank of the 
family. Should they disobey this law they were to be 
fined one mark Danish to Hie king. This was a wise 
precaution, as it was found necessary to discourage 
the taste for extravagance which pervaded all classes,* 
nearly to as great an extent in the celebration of 
weddings as of funerals.t 

Little wine, says an author of the 18th century, was 
consumed in early days ; for at the celebrated mar- 
riage of Erik Ottesen, grand master of the realm, at 
which King Christopher and his Queen Dorothea were 
present, but half a cask was drunk, whereas now twenty 
pipes of Ehine wine were oft cleared off, without 
counting that of France for the common people.} As 
for the trousseaux, they would have satisfied a Parisian 
^l^gante of the second Empire. The list of that of 
Tycho Brahe's grandmother is a book in itself. Not 
only did she bring linen enough, damascened aud in 
piece, to last a century, but aU sorts of finery for her 



* The Danish Bovereigns did aU in their power to repress the extn- 
vagance of the nobility. Frederic IIL issued sumptuary laws to the 
effect they were not to wear pearls and gold on their hats and clothes, 
and, when they gave parties, they were not allowed to serre other than 
cold dishes to their guests ; ** warm food and delicatessen " were strictly 
forbidden. Christian V. dined every day off a loin of roasted veal, 
washed down with Bhenish wine» of which a jug was placed by tbe side 
of each person present 

t When Lars Ulfeld, brother of Gorfitz, whose picture bangs at 
Frederiksborg, married a second time, all the fiunily made him presents 
of silver plate to the amount of 5137 ounces : Hoffman, who gives 
this list, remarks, — "There was more profit in marrying then than 
there is now." 

X When the Sagas talk of wine, they mean brandy-wine. The nobles 
contented themselves with the beer and hydromel of the conntiy. 
" Drink as much as you will,*' was the hospitable saying, ** for the cask 
has a sister.** In ancient times a ton of hydromel was the fine for 
every day a nobleman should absent himself from the diet at Odeose. 



Chaf. XLVI. middle-age RAGGED SCHOOLS. 23t 

husband, among which is enumerated ''a pair of gold- 
laced inexpressibles/' with silk embroideries. But 
" Bibe Ret '* extended even to the " barsel,',' a ceremony 
at which burgomasters had no right to interfere. A lady 
might invite thirty of her female friends to assist — 
maids or matrons — ^no more ; once there, they were not 
allowed to potter in and out, disturbing the sick woman, 
but were compelled to stay until all was over. 

The numerous pious foundations appear to have been 
excellent ; and if good Lord Shaftesbury imagines that^ 
although he has established ragged schools in England 
by his philanthropy and energy, he invented them, he 
is mistaken ; for here in the middle ages a similar in- 
•stitution existed for " fattige pogQ,'' or poor homeless 
vagabonds, to be picked up in the street anywhere ; 
then came the Beformation, and the poor poges got 
swept away in the general haul of ecclesiastical re- 
venues. No wonder. When prelates and mitred 
abbots, when abbesses and nuns, rent the heavens with 
cries of sacrilege, who would listen to the wailings of 
the " fattige poge !' ? Btill, there was much justice in 
King Frederic's niind, and many an aged woman now 
finds shelter and repose at Bibe, in the cloister attached 
to some suppressed convent. We to-day visited one 
of these establishments, and found the old people in 
the ancient monastic garden, seated in the summer's 
sun, and others, rhemnatic perhaps, fearful of wind^ 
under the splendid lime-tree in the cloister yard« The 
Danes may have fiEdlen from their . political grandeur, 
if you will, but they have feUen on a feather-bed* 

We extend our walk to the site of Bibehuus, now a 
Jiuge mound, surrounded by a sedgy moat, a mound of 



232 BIBE. Chap.ZLTL 

which the inhabitants are still proud, as connected widi 
Queen Dagmar. You recollect the old ballad : — 

** Queen Dagmar lies sick in Ribe. 
In Ringsted they do expect her. 
All the ladies in Denmark 
Stand round about her couch." 

Awful aflTairB, these royal accouchements. No wonder 
she died : stifled, I dare say^ as poor Marie Antoin^te 
nearly was in after days. Her death occurred in 1205, 
and now, after a lapse of six hundred years, her name 
is as popular among the peasantry of Denmark as erer. 
The nuptials of Dronning Leonora were also here cde- 
brated ; and again, after the murder of Glippin^ it 
was here the assassins entrenched themselves, haTing 
seized the castle from the hands of Tage Muus (mouse), 
its governor. They had first tried Skanderborg, but 
Queen Agnes, already informed of the bloody deed* 
drew up the drawbridge in time, and, standing in tiie 
balcony, holding her two children by the hand, listened 
to the exulting taunts of the Grand Marshal. ^ You 
have laughed at me, Queen Agnes I You have jeered 
at my grief on account of my wife, and now I have 
burnt your house*" 

The spirit of the youthful Menved could not tamely 
brook the insults addressed to his royal mother ; boil* 
ing with rage, he exclaimed^ ^^ You, Marsk Stigl yon 
self-made king I as sure as I am King of Denmark, yon 
shall lead the life of an outlaw, and the moors idone 
shall be your bed! *^ His brother, little Chrisiopketv 
roared and cried 

Marsk Stig was taken aback by the words of liie 
child, but^ soon recovering himself, he replied, ** ThoQ 



N 



CBA9. XLVL FtTNERAL OF MABSE 8TI0/ 238 

art my king, and I may be an outlaw : bat I will make 
many a Danish mother grieye for her Bon^ and many a 
wife widow yet I " He then saluted the royal party and 
retired. As we have before related, he seizes on Hjelm, 
turns pirate, is excommunicated by the Pope, and 
dies an outlaw. As he is not likely to appear much 
more upon the scene, I may as well relate the story 
of his funeral, celebrated in verse and chronicled in 
the memory of the history-loving Danes. 

Towards the close of the I3th century the servant 
of the priest of Hindsholm in the island of Funen was, 
towards dark, busily employed in cleaning hops, when 
a farming man arrived breathless, declaring he had 
seen a foneral enter the church — a rich fdneral, fol- 
lowed by a train of warriors. Much alarmed, for they 
knew the church to be closed and the keys safe in the 
priest's house, they imagined it to be a phantom rising 
from the sea. 

One of the maids, who was betrothed to Mads Jyde^ 
a grim warrior of Marsk Stig^s band, declared she was 
not a&aid ; she would go and see herself what it really 
was ; so she fetched the key, and when she arrived at 
the church-door she found the building filled with 
armed men, the vizors of their helmets closed ; her 
own '^liuusbond," %. e. the priest, her master, there^ 
with his hands tied behind his back, compelled, by 
tbreats of a drawn sword, to read the fimeral service. 
AJarmed, she conceals herself^ and, the service con- 
<Jbded, the men break open an old vault, and deposit 
the coffin therein. The priest is dismissed, an oath 
fauBig first exacted from aU present never to reveal 
what they had that night seen. When the warrior- 



234 RIBE. .Chap.XLVL 

band has departed the maid-Benrant comes forth from 
her hidmg-plaoe, and examines the vault where the 
coffin of the new-buried corpse is laid ; she finds it 
but carelessly closed. The girl remains until morning, 
when, after some exertion, she manages to unbar the 
door of the vault, and discovers within it a new coffin 
over which was laid a violet velvet doak powdered with 
silver stars of seven points. 

" Well I " thought she, " it is a pity to leave this 
here to rot and spoil ;'* so she rolls up the doak and 
then recloses the door. 

Years pass by, and Hads Jyde returns from the 
wars to claim his brida The marriage is celebrated 
with the usual rejoicings and festivities, and in the 
evening the guests conduct the new-married couple 
to the miptial chamber. The first object that meets 
the eye of the bridegroom is the violet cloak with silver 
stars laid across the bed. " What is this ? " he ex- 
<;laims, pale with agitation; "tell me I" The bride, 
in her innocence, relates her story, concealing nothing 
firom her husband ; he blows out the candle, kisses her 
on the cheek. 

The following morning the villagers arrive early 
to serenade the new-married couple, but no answer is 
made to their greeting. Ten o'clock strikes ; midday 
is past, when, alarmed, they determine to break into 
the bridal chamber ; the door yields to their efforts— 
a fearful spectacle meets their eyes. Across the bed 
lies extended the body of the bride of yesterday— 
a corpse. One fearful wound in her breast has done 
the nuschief ; ^e da^er still remains undrawn — the 
bridegroom fled« Mads Jyde had dearly loved his 



€hap, XLyi« £RI|ANI> EALF. 235 

mistreas, btft he had better lored the memory of his 
outlawed lord, and respected the oath he had sworn 
at his funeral in the Tillage church of Hindsholm.* 

mbehuus was entirely destroyed in the Swedish war 
of the 17th century. Among its goTeinors was the 
celebrated Erland Kalf of the last Yaldemar's days. 
In the wars of the Succession he sided with the Slesvig 
Dukes, brothers of Queen Hedyig, who, delighted at 
his desertion of their opponent's cause, handed over 
to him two important fortresses; but a sentiment of 
remorse now seizes him, he again returns to his alle<- 
glance, bringing with him the castles committed to 
his chaise. "Capital beast that!" exclaimed King 
Valdemar, always inclined to be facetious; "he ran 
away a calf, and is now come back a cow, with two fine 
young heifers I " Not bad for a royal joke. 

We had brought letters for the family of the clergy- 
man of the cathedral, who were most kind and hos- 
pitable, and did all in their power to make our stay 
agreeable. This eyening we .accompanied them to the 
annual haymaking festival of the town, held on the 
opposite side of the river, about two English miles at 
least from Bibe. The beau-monde of the ancient 
cathedral town were all present, and there was a great 

* There has been a grand dicfpute as regards fhe place of the inter- 
ment of Marsk Stig. In the church of Stubherup is |in ancient 
stone, with a copper plate on which is inscribed, — *' a.d. 1292 (repaired 
by Kirsten Hardenberg, 1656) died the noble and woll-bom Mar^ Stig 
Andersen Ton Hjehn, and lies here interred ;" but this was put up by 
one of his descendants. He left a son (he was, I know, married), Stig- 
sen, as he was called, who made peace with the king, and eigoyed the 
highest faTour. He manied a Miss Bogge, sister of our old friend Sir 
Niels. His death is thus related : — *' Marsk Stig owned Bj0mskor. 
Once, when hunting in a strong heat, he fainted, alighted from his 
horse, and sat down on a stone in Tomp field, where he died. 



236 BIBE, Ohap.XLVL 

deal of fun going on among the hay^ dancing and 
ringing in chorus of national airs : very pretty were 
some of the modem ones. The ancient Danish musie 
is awful : lugubrious to a degree not to be described— 
worse than that of the Spam'sh muleteer. In England 
we speak of the ^' tune the cow died of/' though what 
the melody was which caused so disastrous an eyent is 
as yet a myth. My firm belief is that the unfortunate 
animal met with her death from the imprudent singing 
of some old Danish ballad wi&in her hearing. I walked 
about bouche beante with wonder and admiration, staiv 
ing at the town meadow, a present of Erik If enved to 
the city: one sea of haycocks, eight English miles 
square, without any separation, barrier or hedge ; green 
grass, fine as Telvet I 

To quit Bibe would be impossible without alluding 
to the well-known baUad of Tovelil — ^not the Tove of 
Ourre, but the Tore of the first Yaldemar, the Fair 
Bosamond of Danish story ; victim, like Liden Kirsten, 
to the jealousy — ^in this case just, it must be avowed— 
of Queen Sofie, one of the most unpopular queens of 
early Danish story. 

*' Merry did they dance in the castle-yaid : 
Then danced the queen with her maidens nine ; 
And proud was Tovelil, the damsel fine ; 
But King Yaldemar he can love them both. 

hear you, Tovelil, mine own heart's dear, 

1 would the queen would die in this year : 
Heaven would it grant my wife were dead^ 
Then you should wear the crown so red I 

Be silent, oh king, the queen stands near j 
To your idle talk she lends her ear.** 

And so it goes on* Queen Sofie now sends for Torelil, 
and asks her what she is talking about ? Toyelil replies, 



Ghjip. XLYL legend OF TOVELIL. 237 

Nothing — about the knight who demands her hand in 
marriage. Concealment later becomes useless, and 
Sofie again taunts her. '^What did the king give 
you ? " she inquires. Toyelil, now bold — ^mattresse en 
litre — ^replies : — 

" He gave to me as fine a gold band 
As ever was seen around the queen*8 hand ; 
For I to him two sons did bear ; 
For this the king he loves me dear. 
Knnd and Christopher ride never far 
From the king's side when he goes to the war." 

Sofie now meditates revenge. She orders a "bad- 
stue," a vapour-bath (probably an introduction of her 
own from Bussia), to be constructed, and begs Tovelil to 
accompany her to bathe. She however declined ; " she 
bathed yesterday ;" but later she is induced to enter to 
prepare the bath for her lord. Queen Sofie closes the 
stove, and heaps wood upon the fire : — 

" There is no water, there is no soap ; 
For the love of Heaven, oh let me out ! 
Then could all hear along the street 
How Tovelil died so hard a death.** 

The queen now walks downBibe street, and, meeting 
Enud and Christopher, cries out> mocking : — 

*' Here oome you, Christopher ; here come you, Knud * 
Go both, and take your mother out. 
Kun down the street, and hear her cries. 
For Tovelil in the badnstue dies." 

The sons spur their chargers, upsetting the queen 
sprawling in the gutter, all in her " scarlet red." They 
burst open the door, but too late : — 

^ Her sons they hear no more her groans : 
The fire has burnt to her very bones." 



238 T0RNING, Oeap.XJ.YU 

And when they take the body of their mother from tha 
bad-stue, she was — 

*' Ab a goofle roasted for Ghristmaa.*' 

" But King Valdemar he can love them both " — ^not the 
goose — but Tovelil and Queen Sofia 

Such was the fate of the Danish Fair Bosamond^ 
roasted to rags in a yapour-bath^ 

TURNING. 

Jvly 25<A. — ^We leave Eibe betimes for HadersIeT, 
first stopping a mile from the town, at the village of 
T0niing, beautifully situated in a picturesque valley, 
by a mill, to visit the Tinghuus, the most ancient in 
the kingdom of Denmark. We might have saved our- 
selves the trouble: the Tinghuus is now no more; 
the great salle is divided into cottages ; some of the 
panellings, painted with the arms of the earlier soTe- 
reigns, are still visible. The Ting has been of late 
years transferred to the adjoining kro, where politiciaDfl 
can quaff ale and discuss politics at the same time. 
Here arose the first dispute between King Christian 
and the peaaantry of Slesvig, in consequence of the 
motto to that sovereign's shield being hung up written 
in the German language instead of the Danish. They 
tore down the wapen ; a revolution was nearly stirred 
up. The king, however, on the application of the 
peasants, allowed another to be painted, and the ob- 
noxious motto removed, "for,'* said they, "we are not 
Grermans, but of South Jutland." 

In the northern provinces of Jutland these Tings 
were held in the open air ; we frequently came across 
hillocks called " Ting H0is." 



Chu. xlvl werewolf and nightmare. 239 

You would imagine we hsA done with ghosts and 
mermaidfi, church lambs and churchyard horses, trolles, 
nisses, and Hyldemoir, &c &a ; but this yery day two 
more diabolical characters — ^the werewolf (loup garou) 
and the nighlr-rayen — appear on the scene. 

The werewolf, one of the earliest superstitions of 
ancient Scandinayia, is said to be the offspring of a 
woman who, by the aid of some rite— chloroform ? — 
brings forth her children without suffering. In this 
case all the sons become werewolves and the daughters 
nightmares. The werewolf bears a hmnan form dur- 
ing the day, but you may always know him by the 
'^ meeting of his eyebrows," and at night-time he as^ 
sumes the shape of a three-legged dog. But if you 
suspect a person to be such, and accuse him, he be- 
comes free at once from the eviL 

It is related how a man, who had been a werewolf 
firom a child upwards, late at night drove home with 
his wife from a fei^vaL On the road^ when he felt the 
time of his evil draw nigh, he alighted, and gave the 
reins to his wife, saying, '^ If anything comes to thee, 
mother, you have only to defend yourself with your 
apron." He then left her, and presently the woman 
is attacked by a werewolf. She beats it with her 
apron, which the monster seizes in his teeth and carries 
away. When her husband returned he held in his mouth 
a tom-off piece of lus wife's apron sticking between 
his teeth. On seeing this, she cries, ^' Lord I husband, 
thou art a werewolf I " " Thanks to thee, mother, 
I am now free I " he replied, and from that time the 
evil never affected him« The nightmare is a female 
werewolf. 

A peasant had a betrothed bride who was a nights 



240 T0RNING. Chap. XLVL 

maxe without knowing it herself; she came er^ 
night to her bridegroom, who was soon made aware of 
her evil, for he remarked that she entered through a 
little hole which was in an oaken window-post So he 
prepared a stick to fit into the hole, and, when she 
had come the next night, he fixed the stick in the 
hole, and she was' forced to stay in the room. Then she 
instantly regained her human shape, and kept it. The 
peasant married her, and they had many children. 
Many years had passed quietly away, and they were 
both advanced in years, when it happened one eyening 
that the husband thought of the stick, which was still 
fixed in the hole of the oaken post. Then he jokingly 
asked his wife if she knew how she had once enteied 
the house, and, as she knew nothing about it, be told 
her, and even took out the stick, that she might see 
by what entrance she had come in. The wife peered 
through, but while standing there she became suddenly 
quite small, slipped out through the hole, and yanished 
for eyer. 

Once upon a time there was in Jutland a que^ 
who was a great admirer of horses. She had one of 
which she was especially fond, and which occupied her 
thoughts both while awake and in her dreams. Often 
at night, when the groom came into the stables, he 
perceived that the horse was uneasy, and thence he 
concluded that it had been ridden by the nightmare. 
One night he took a pailful of cold water and cast it 
over the horse, and the same moment he saw the queen 
sitting on the horse's back. 

The night-raven is a more mysterious creature stills 
being a " conjured ghost ;" to become one was, as yott 
recollect^ the wish of Long Margaret of Vosborg. 



Cbap. xlyi. night-raven and basilisk. 241 

In the spot where such a spectre has appeared, a 
pointed stake must be driven into the earth, which will 
always penetrate the left. wing of the "night-raven," 
and make a hole in it. The night-raven emerges 
only from the ugliest sloughs and moors. First, it 
begins to cry beneath the swamp, " Eock 1 rock ! rock ! 
up I " and when it is once out, it darts away, crying, 
" Hey ! hey ! he— y I " Then it lights upon the earth, 
at first resembling in shape a cross, hopping along like 
a magpie. Soon it flies away towards the east to the 
"holy grave,** which if it can contrive to reach, it 
comes to rest When it passes over our heads, we must 
take care not to look up, for if any one look through 
" the hole in the left wing '* he becomes himself a night- 
raven, and the bird is released. It is a peaceful animal, 
and does no harm, only it seeks to fly further and 
fiirther towards the east. 

Lastly, we hove the old legend of the basilisk. When 
the cock is seven years old it lays an egg, from which 
comes forth the basilisk, an ugly monster, which Idlls 
people solely by looking at them. The basilisk can only 
be killed by holding a mirror before it, for it cannqt 
survive the sight ofits own ugliness. 

We have really now done with hobgoblins and super- 
natural monsters of all sorts; but if you require any 
more information on the subject, you may search for 
it yourself in a Danish book written by David Monrad, 
and aptly termed ^ Heathenish Christianity.* 

FREDERICIA. 

We found Haderslev as we left it> in full fair time. 
We again passed through Eolding, whose castle-ruins 
appear to have suffered from the effects of the last 

VOL. IL B 



242 FBEDEBICU. Ghjlp.XLVI. 

winter^ and Hannibal^ on his watch-tower, now bends 
forward, considerably out of the perpendicular. From 
thence to Fredericia, a beautiful drive along the fiorde'a 
banks — a recompense due to us for our uglj sey^i 
miles journey of this morning. The town of Fredericia 
is a fortress of some consequence in the Danish domi- 
nions. It has had its affair with the Swedes, indepeo:- 
dent of its exploits in the last war, too fresh in the 
minds of the world in general to require relating. Its 
present interest consists in the two monuments erected 
to the memory of the Danish heroes who fell fighting- 
in the cause of their country at the battle which 
bears its name : they are the work of Professor Biaseiu 
One, a bas-relief, erected in the public cemetery, is as 
beautiful in design as admirable in execution; the 
subject, two soldiers bearing a dead comrade in their 
arms for interment from the battle-field. Unfortu- 
nately, it has been injudiciously placed too near to the 
churchyard wall, so that you catch, on arriving from 
either side, the rounded backs of the bearers en biais^ 
which presents a most ridiculous appearance, and hare 
to cross over to the opposite side of the road to judge 
of the general effect It is, however, fine as a work of 
art, and adds much to the reputation of the artist by 
whom it was designed. Fredericia is restoring . her 
church — ^red and white— in its ancient colours. Some 
carving on the pulpit is worthy of Grinling Gibbomiy 
all fruits, flowers, and shells. 

The small boat which is to carry us across the blue 
waters of the Little Belt waits. Tide and wind con- 
trary; but an hour will soon pass away. We can 
watch, as we sail along, the richly-wooded coast of 
Funen. We can gaze on the actineaB — actines of a 



Chaf, XtVI. FAREWELL TO JOTLAKD. 243 

beauty unriyalled floating along in their course. Only 
look at fhem, in fheir filmy parasols of transparent 
white^ hemmed with a deep feathery fringe I how they 
collapse I how they again reopen ! The one resembles 
a star-fish in a balloon, gauzy transparent ; the other 
has four eyes, if eyes they be. And now we ride on 
the Belt Middelfart, with her imposing church, her 
trees, and her shipping, are near. Syren-like, she 
atferaets ns to her ^orea Well, there is a charm in 
beauty, but the Syren must be powerful indeed, her 
fieiscinations great, and her potations drugged, who can 
ever cause us to forget the pleasant time we have spent, 
the hospitalities we have received, during our six weeks' 
wandering among the fiordes, the moses, the wild and 
original sc^iery, of that most historie of all provinces 
ibe ancient kingdom of North Jutland* 



K 2 



244 ISLAND OF FONEK. Chap. XLVIL 



CHAPTER XLVIL 

The iflland of Fmien — Bed cabbage of Sir Niels Bagge — Ploogliii^ 
ghoets — Odin and Odenae — Murder of St Ennd — The tiatiar 
Blakke — Funeral of Kirstine Munk — Dormitorium of the Able- 
feldts— The lady who danced heiaelf to death — The petcataof 
Mrs. Mouse — Sing John and his fiunily — The Lear of Odense 
and his daughtera. 



ISLAND OF FUNEN. 

J%dy 26<A. — We land at Middelfait, and, whilst oar 
carriages are preparing, wander down to the shore-side. 
The '' red cabbage/' sprang from the blood of Sir Nieb 
Bngge, was not, however, tixere ; perhaps we may next 
time be more lucky. Then on to Odense, twentj-foor 
English miles, over a road straight as the crow flies» a 
hill always before you, and, when you are at the top, 
another. The land is rich and highly cultivated, but 
you sigh after the expansive wastes of Jutland. It 
is divided into small fields — ^like England were the 
hedges of quickset; here they are mostly of lilac 
This division was rendered necessary by the dishonesty 
of the inhabitant& '^ Cursed is he that removeth hk 
neighbour's landmark," we all know, but we are igno- 
rant of the punishment assigned hereafter to those who 
commit this crime. The Fionese declare that the ghosts 
of the culprits are compelled to plough the fields fixm i 
which they unlawfully removed the stones, to all eter^ 
nity ; and in the villages of Byslinge and L0rup they 
may still be heard of a night speeding their ploughs 



Chap. XLVII. ODENSE. 246 

for the benefit of no one. Across a hill, too, called 
Graabjerge, the peasant will teU you it is dangerous 
to pass after nightfall, for the unwary pedestrian may 
suddenly find a red-hot rein poked into his hand, and 
be compelled to plough as long as the tortured spirits 
care to repose themselves. In this case there is but 
one resource : kick off your shoes — sabots, if you wear 
them — and, when you turn back, shove your feet quickly 
into them, and take to your heels. 

ODENSE. 

Oh for the meadow of Menyedl its eight square 
miles of haycocks! Stufify, oppressive Punen! We 
may grow used to it, but at present we despise her 
^'prettiness'* from our hearts' core. At last comes 
Odense — ^not a bad town, with long streets and fine 
churches. A canal alone connects it with the fiorde. 
Despicable place I A city — capital, too, of a Danish 
island — and no water save a murmuring brook I No 
historic iuterest can ever make up for such a disap- 
pointment, so the sooner we are off from.the clean but 
noisiest of all noisy post-houses the better. 

Don't inquire the etymology of the city's name, and 
rashly plunge into the vortex of real Odins and false 
Odins. It won't pay. The statue which once stood 
on the so-called Odin's h0i has long since disappeared. 
Let us turn at once to Ejiud the Holy, of whom we 
have heard so much — ^not Ejiud, flushed with the hopes 
of victory, about to sail with his mighty fleet to wrest 
his rebellious province of England from the Normans— 
not Enud prosperous lord of the castle of Sj0rring, which 
we visited together one windy day — ^but Enud in the 
fair isle of Funen, with a few followers, a fugitive from 



246 ODENSC. Cbap. ZLYJh 

tboee mofit opr0r-iou0 of all subjects the Yendd boom. 
On his joumey none soocoured him, fiaya ODe, and that 
one a granite boulder. The weary king; on hia way 
firom Middelfart to Odanae^ sank down from abaer 
fatigue on the rock which layby thewayside. Touched, 
eays tradition^ by the sorrows of the unlucky monaieb, 
the hard granite softened, and the king enjoyed an 
ujulisturbed repose, as on a bed of down, till the momnig 
dawned, and he continued his journey. 

Among his suite was Earl Esbem, called Blakke, ot 
the ^^ red-haired," from his shining locks. Enud lored 
him much, but he proTed a traitor. He aasored the 
king there was no danger ; that instead of passing aoroaB 
the Great Belt he might repose at Odense. When die 
king was in the sanctuary of St Alban*s church — Ewglisli 
St Alban's, a &Tourite saint of our own Great Caimte 
and founder of the ediiSice — ^Blakke persuaded him the 
Vendels had returned to Jutland^ so he slept quietiy 
together with his two brothers. Blakke then called to 
the peasants, '^ Go round and shoot the king through 
the window." . They did so. Knud was kneeling befoie 
the high altar, with his brother Benedict, when a 
javelin, hurled through the window, laid him low. 
The kiug, feeling his end was nigh, prepared, his 
anns folded, to meet his death with dignity. He 
prayed for his enemies ; but he was very thirsty, and 
demanded to drink ; thereon a young man ran to the 
fountain in the market-phtce, fmd, jBlling an earthen 
pot with water, gave it to the dying king, passing it 
through the window on his spear ; but an old peasant 
with Ins axe struck it down. The king looked up; 
their eyes met ^^ & f<dw moments after the king ex- 
pired. That man was never again tranquil; the dying 



Chap. XLVn. MURDER OF ST. KNUD. 247 

gaze of the king, so patient and so sad, for ever hannted 
him, and he died shortly afterwards in great agony. 

It is related in the same Chronicle how, while the 
small bnt tmsty band of the king defended his person, 
the &lse Blakke kiUed the good Benedict, brother of 
the king. Blakke himself was slain in the fight ; and 
when the battle was over, these two were found lying 
side by side. The blood of the prince flowed in a long 
stream of reeking gore along the pavement to the 
right, that of the traitor to the left : even in death their 
life-blood would not mingle.* About the year 1100 
Enud was canonised, and his body is interred within the 
church which bears his name, in a splendid shrine above 
the high altar. His brother Benedict is allowed to 
repose by his side. You may see them now, each in 
a carved oak box, Benedict's by far the smartest He 
and the Holy Enud remain, no longer regarded as relics 
and holy, in a chapel of the building, and their moulder- 
ing legs, once the admiration of thousands, may still be 
discerned, half powder, through the glass apertures of 
their coffins. There is no image of St. Ejiud here 
extant, but in the village of Branninge, by Bibe, you 
may see one, a very ancient carved figure, in the fiill 
armour of the day, his head covered with a monk's cap.t 

* Blakke went baokwaTds and forwards between the king and the 
rebels, always on horseback ; hence the proTerb, when speaking of a 
traitor, " He rides on Blakke's horse." The children in Skaane stiU play 
at a game called ** At sto Blak eller Blakke/' in aUnsion to his perfidy. 
He was brother to King Syend. See vol. i. p. 114, note. 

t Peter Pagh, Bishop of Odense, was the first to introduce the por* 
imlt of Knud the Holy into the arms of his diocese, 1839. He com- 
posed, indeed, a yery complimentary stanza in Latin on the subject — 
not without a false quantity, though, for which I should haye been put 
in title bill by Oookesley at Eton,— saying how he had introduced a Uly 
into his shield. Alnotiius, an Englishman from Canterbury, who lived 
in Denmark for twenty years, wrote St Enud*s Life, and dedicated it 
to King Niels, bis brotiier. 



248 ODENSE. Chap. XLTIL 

Adela, his widowed qneen^ wanted, on her letiie* 
ment from Denmark, to cany off these precioiiB 
relics to Flanders. Had she persisted in the execution 
of her whim, she would have met with the same fate as 
the saint himself. Deprive Odense of her ^' apothek" 
and head doctor I Furiouef, the inhabitants resented 
the idea. ** Did he not cure every disease ? A most 
skilful oculist, he restored sight to the blind! For 
rheumatics, he had no equal I and for the purificatioii 
of the blood, never talk of ^la moutaide blanche,' when 
St. Enud is to be got at I " Though a saint^ he had 
his sp^cialit^, and particularly prided himself on his 
success in all cutaneous disorders. 

So Queen Adela, who had no particular fancy for 
being poked with a javelin, retired to Flanders, and left 
St. Enud to the adoration of the multituda 

His church is a fine building of exquisite proportions, 
spoiled by the modem fittings and loggie of the last 
centuries, used by the monarch and the heir-apparent 
(who generally held the post of governor of Funen), as 
well as by their guests; for Odense has had a world 
of fine company in her days of splendour. Our own 
George I., among the number, in the old Electress's 
lifetime paid a visit to Denmark, to Christian Y. — came 
to see his old aunt the dowager queen — ^always kind 
to the Palsgrave family. But Odense is out of faahion 
now ; her palace untenanted. Next on our list of royal 
folks appears Erik Lam; he turned monk. Fve no 
patience with your " rois faineans " who turn religious 
to get out of this world's troubles. It is not religion 
at all — all sneaking, nothing more nor less. 

Then comes King John, whose splendid sepulchral 
slab, removed fit)m the extinct church of the Gray 
Friars, lies imbedded in the wall — a fine specimen of its 



Ckap. XLVII. ST. KNUiys CHUKCH. 249 

period : the king arrayed in liis royal robes, and good 
Qaeen Christina, who here died 1521, standing by his 
aide ; between them their youngest son, Prince Fran- 
GMCOs,* a small boy, in fhll costume, with golden chain, 
to which hangs a pendent rose, some old Pope's present. 
Within the same vault, but no monument erected to 
his memory, lies Christian n.,t together with his father 
and mother, at last at rest Hard by stands the coat 
of arms, in carved wood, of young Prince Franciscus, 
bearings of the house of Oldenboig ;X observe the sup- 



* Ko prinoe of the house of Oldenboig had eTer before receiyed the 
Dame of Franciscus ; and people wondered greatly at its selection. He 
WBB named in honour, said Kiog John, of holy St. Francis ; for on that 
Saiiit*8 day not only was he bom, but his fattier received the news of 
peace having been concluded between himself and Sten Sture. 

t At his funeral appeared a rich merchant from the Netherlands, 
who demanded a large sum of money which he declared he had lent 
to the deceased king during his banishment. King Frederic II. 
ansfwered that all his debts must be paid by his children, brother-in-law, 
and those nearest in kin, and not by the country ; and that this answer 
mi^ht stand good for all the creditors, who, as you may imagine, were 
never paid. 

% On a field or, two ban gules, is the cognisance of the house of 
Oldenborg, concerning which ** smudge," as it is termed, there hangs 
a story. In the year 1090 the Count of Oldenborg, while in the 
Holy Land, for a conspiracy against the Emperor Henry lY. was con- 
demned to engage in single combat with a lion. In the MQller 
collection is preserved a curious old engraving of this story. • The 
count, armed cap-a-pie, stands in a stone jail-like court» surrounded by 
high walls, over the top of which appear the heads of the emperor with 
the empresB (Matilda), bishops* counts, ladies, aU anxiously feasting 
their eyes on the fight. But the Count of Oldenborg is a man of 
genius. He has in his hand the lay-figure of a man— very like an 
acrobat of modem days — which he holds out on his shield, and 
presents to the lion. While the imprudent beast seizes on his prey 
with his teeth and claws, the count plunges his sword deep into his 
heart. The blood flies out over the hand of the victor, who, first 
wiping his fingers on his gilded shield, produces the two red smudges 
which he afterwards bore as his arms by order of the emperor. In 
olden days the house of Oldenborg adopted as their supporters, on the 



250 ODENSE. Chap. XLYIL 

porters, ^d men not yet moulted, urell coated with 
hair — ^hair, however, we all know, will not last for ever, 
and the savages of the Danish arms have, like the rest 
of the world, become bald. 

Before we close the list of royalty, observe that 
velvet coflSn — plain, simple coffin — a Duchess's coronet, 
C. M. the initials — ^worthless Christina Munk. We have 
visited her birthplace, assisted at her marriage, her 
disgrace, her death, and now she lies interred, or 
rather exposed, in the chapel of St Enud*s church of 
Odense — ^requiescat in pace I Christina had the good 
luck to die at the moment when Ulfeld and his wife 
were at the height of their power — so on her death-bed 
she was attended by the Hof-Preacher of Greneial 
Wrangel, as well as by the king's doctor. Her coffin 
was brought to Odense, met outside the town by the 
nobility, and buried in the presence of her children 
and grandchildren all arrayed in white clothing. So 
after aU she was interred as a countess, and not as 
Mrs. Christina of BoUer. 

We will first enter the splendid chapel of the CSounts 
of Ahlefeldt,* a really noble dormitorium. Look at 
the banners — the armour — the coffins — all gilt and 
engraved; nothing in death and dust can be more 
magnificent. Thirteen warriors of this house feU in 

right an armed kxdght preBenting in his hiind a lay-flgoie to the Uqb, 
wlio fonns tlie left side supporter. The houses of Austria, Oarafii, and 
many others, hare adopted this story of the smndge, bat without m/ 
right. 

* The Ahlef eldts of more modem date derire their descent from tlie 
daughter of Bang Ohristian and poor bullied Vibeke Kruse. Very 
weU brought up, too, she was; for Dr. Laurits Jaoobsen, in his 
Journal, notes, 29th April, 1647, " Have I this day. by the king^a 
order, examined Hiss lisbeth in her cateohism ;" and later the kug 
expressed his good pleasure at her grounding in her Ohristianitiea. 



Cnxp. XLVU. DANCING TO DEATH. 261 

the Ditsoiark combat, when the eacied banner of the 
Panebrqg was lost to the Danes for ever. 

Obsenre that figure of a lady in a dark brocade dress 
and tight corsage, with choking ni£ No beanty — ^Lady 
llargaret Skoygaard is her name, a hidy of great posses- 
siona She was young and &ir, and loved the revel 
and the dance. At a ball at Odense she danced with 
twelve successive knights — ^branles, corantos, and what 
not ; — dances not like our calm meandering quadrilles 
of the 19th century. She danced, and would not stop, 
till she could no more, and fell exhausted, dead, at 
the feet of the twelfth knight» her partner.* He — ^for 
the age of chivalry was not yet over — caused, at his own 
expense, this stone to be erected to her memory, and, 
like the rivals Capulet and Montague, had it richly 
gilt " Stuff and nonsense I " cried fourth Christian, 
when he saw it (he was elected to his throne in 
Odense) ; *^ bring me a tar-barrel. Take a brush and 
tar the jade all over, I am not going to have my 
devotions (Christian's devotions!) disturbed by her 
gold and glitter." But Christian counted without his 
host^ old Time ; for, after a lapse of more than two 
centuries, the tar is peeling off^ the gold reappearing, 
and perhaps she will again rival the gingerbread of 
the country fairs in her glittering finery. Scandalous 
people declare that the Lady Margaret had refused to 
lend money to Christian during her lifelime ; it was on 
this account that he revenged himsel£ For the credit 
of St Knud, all coffins are closed to the public, even 



* la the dewmption of Sandemmgaaid, once in her pot ro irion, 
X ^wM oonadenibly diagnsted to find the foUowing Tomark: '*If 
liargBrat Skoygaard did die from oYor-daaoiiig, she was, at any rate, 
tazned flerenty yean of age." 



252 ODENSE. Ceap. JLJVL 

that of Mrs. Mnus, wife of the first Protestant prelate 
of the diocese, who, in order to prove she was abo?e 
the prejadices of her '^race/' caused herself to be 
buried along with her four pet cats, each grimaUdn 
clothed in grave-clothes of white satin, with a little 
black velvet cap and feather placed upon his feline 
head — ^a story much in favour of the celibacy of Hie 
clergy, if bishops' wives made such fools of themselvesL* 
Wednesdaj/y 27th. — ^I have done my best to like 
Odense, but can't I have mounted the lofty tower of 
St Enud's church, and ietm not enthusiastic about the 
view, though anythiog like the steepness of its ladders 
I never came across. In the church of Our Lady is 
the splendid altarpiece, brought from the long since 
destroyed convent of the Gray Brothers, executed in 
the town of Odense, about the year 1520, by Clans 
Berg,f whose name deserves to be handed down among 
the artists of his age. It was a present from good Queen 
Christina | to that fraternity, a body much patronised 



• Ohrbtian Povelflen, last Prior of St. Kmid, in Odense. in his 
Journal, says that, in 1532, came King Frederio I.'s letter, that aU the 
silyer ornaments in the church were to be given over to the king, even 
to the "ohalice, paten, and piz,*' at which the prior appeaza consider- 
ably disgusted. 

t Glaus Berg, the artist who carved the altarpiece of the Omj 
Brethren, was, as he himself states, of a burgher family, an ^ armiger * 
from Lubec. Queen Christina, who resided at St. Olaia's convent, 
sent for him. He •ntered the queen's service, and had under him 
twelve servants, as well as pupils, whom the queen paid monthly, and 
who were dressed in silk clothes trimmed with lace. The queen aim 
stood godmother in 1504 to his son, whom she caUed Fmndacua^ and 
paid for his schooling in Bostock. 

X Queen Christina much aifected Odense as a residence, even after 
her husband's death, when she retired to the convent of St. Clara. Ib 
her book of expenses the entries are numerous. She looked alter King 
John 8 little bills and paid, them for him. *' I gave ten marks to tiie 
bookbinder's wife, where the king used to. bathe, as I have given het 



CBAp.XLyil. CHURCH OF OUR LADT. 253 

by the early members of the Oldenborg family. In the 
lowest diyision, ranged on each side of the figure of 
Christ, stand King John and his family ; the likenesses, 
if the portraits of the day are to be trusted, are admir- 
able. To the right bends King John himself, followed by 
hxB sons — Christian II. the faosimile, beard and all, of 
the portrait of Christiansborg, a ruffianly-looking fellow, 
and his younger brother, the youthful Francis. On the 
female side, Queen Christina ; then young Elizabeth of 
Austria, the fair spouse of neglectful Christian.* And, 



no money before :*' though, when the king went to bathe, hiB senranta 
followed him, and were allowed a tmi of beer to drink whilst he was in 
the water. Qneen Christina does not seem to be a woman of great 
expenses. She enters *' Paid to the washerwoman for her bill of the 
last half-year the snm of 6 marks '* — 1«. 3d. English. She paid drink- 
money to the servant who brought her from England a swan — coals to 
Newcastle. Her farrier's bill amounts to 30 marks for one year. When 
Queen Christina returned from her two years' imprisonment in 
Sweden, she brought back with her a certificate that she had lived 
nobly and chastely durmg the time of her absence, signed by the Arch- 
bishop of Upsala and twelve noble gentlemen. Such was the sim- 
plicity of the times I She died in Odense, and was buried in the dress 
of a Franciscan nun. 

* To do Christian justice, with all his imperfections and his bad con- 
doct as regards Dyveke, he seems, in writing at any rate, to have 
been an attentive husband. ** Les paroles s'envolent, mais les Ventures 
reatent," says the French proverb ; and in the lately published corre- 
spondence of King Christian a constant good feeling prevails between 
bim and his'fiiir consort Elizabeth. In the first letter of the col- 
lection he urgently implores of his ** kere frue " to abstain from the 
drinking of Bhine wine as injurious to her health, bat to use the red 
vintage of France in its stead, of which he will procure her the best to 
be bad. Very prettily he writes, too, on the occasion of his children's 
iMrtfa, — ^nothing can be nicer ; then, too, he adds a postscript to announce 
the safety of Sigbrit, the maitresse m^ and prime minister, after 
ibe dnddng elsewhere alluded to^ oonoeming which I have no doubt 
Qaeen Elizabeth was less anxious. She, on her side, in writing 
£rom Berlin — where her brother-in-law Joachim, inhospitable old 
leUow 1 plainly lets her see he grudges the expense of keeping her — 
expreMes her longing to be once again reunited to him. Then later, 



254 ODENI^. • GBAP.XLVn. 

last, another Elizabeth, known to readers of Garlyle — 
Elizabeth mamed to the Elector of Brandenborg— 
Protestant-ways inclined — caught hj one of her no- 
xnerons daughters tripping in her creed, receiving the 
communion in both kinds. ^Vll brick hex up/' roared 
her husband, in his ire. Elizabeth was too good a 
Lutheran not to hate bread and water ; so off she sets, 
with not a change of linen to her back — ^menda her 
broken axle-tree with her veil — travels night and day 
till she gains the dominions of her neighbour the 
Protestant Duke of Saxony, and never returns to her 
husband more. Joachim declared he meant nothing; 
but as his wife was well out of his reach, it was all 
very fine — she for one never believed him. There 
she bends — nice-looking, with plaited tresses — ihe 
only representation of her extant in the Danidi do- 
minions.* 



as matten grow woi8e» theix oomnumiGatioii becomes moie and uare 
frequent : lea petitea miaerea de la tie humaine are all forgotten ; tt&e^ 
axe botmd together by one iatereat—tbeir own and that <^ their 
children. 

One aerioua tiff Christian did hare with EUzabeth, and tiiat i^ppeazi 
the only one. He secretly put to death her chamberlain ManmiUaa* 
who had come with her from the Netherlands* and of whom he is anp* 
posed to have been jealoua He also turned off her grande maitrcaw 
and her confessor. 

All King Christian's letters to his consort are written ** paa papii;'* 
not parchment* and sealed either with red or gr0nl vox. 

In 1526 dies Queen Elizabeth, and is buried in her natlre city of 
Ghent, and the last we hear of her \m the account giren of sums paid to 
Jean de liCabuse, who is charged with the erection of her monument 

* Such a writing as went on in the funily at the period of her esca- 
pade and for some time after was nerer known, but can be aU oem is 
the correspondence of King Christian. Old Joachim writes to his 
beloved brother-in-law, and expresses his utmost astonidmient at s» 
unheard-of a proceeding. " He can't underitand it ; she had no gfoimdl- 
to fear ; why should she suspect him of bad motives 2 " Then comes s 
ooneapondence with the IJuke of 8axony» to and £rom» asking and pco* 



Chap. XLYIL OLAF BAGER. 255 

I am perfectly aware that Palnatoke, fousder of the 
Hvide family, whom we have had before at Marienlysti 
uproarious like the rest of the warriors in Harald Blue- 
Tooth's time, got himself slain somewhere by here ; and 
I haTe read a description, to which only Froissart or 
dear Miss Strickland could do justice, of the feudal 
homage done by the Dukes of Holstein, John and 
Adol^ to our good King Frederic, in 1579. Anything 
so smart as they all were no one can imagine. But 
the noise and the dust of Odense, nothing will evear 
make up for it. 

Though Augsburg can boast her Fuggers, Odense can 
boast her Bagers ; but in this latter case I am afraid 
yirtue becomes its own reward, and the Bager family 
lanks not high among the counts of the Danish do- 
minions. Olaf Bager was a rich merchant, and a man 
of noble and generous sentiments. He lent money to 
his king, the second Frederic, who when he visited 
Odense never fedled to sup at the house of his friend 
and subject 

Pudding and sweets, as you well know, are served 
anyhow in the northern climes, in the middle of dinner, 
as the cook or housewife wishes it. One night at 
su{>per King Frederic praised highly some conserves of 
apricots. " What a bouquet, too, they have I " exclaimed 
the king. " Wait,'' replied Bager, " till the dessert ; I 
will give you some incense which will smell far sweeter." 

mifliBg her ptotectioii. King Ferdinand writes a sti£f letter to Ghrifitian« 
requesting him to use his influence in sending his sister hack again to 
her hufihand. Be does not approve of saeh proceedings. Then young 
Joachim writes to his mother, and implores her to retom to her afflicted 
family* and tries his host to move his uncle Christian also ; hut the Pro- 
testant duck is not to be snared hack to her nest by any flattery. She's 
aafo where she is, and intends to remain 00. 



256 ODENSE. CsiP.XLVIL 

The supper over, an incense-burner, laden with per- 
fumed cedar-chips, was brought in, on the top of which 
was laid a mass of papers. 

"Will your Majesty deign to light the pile?" re- 
quested Bager, offering a match. His Majesty did so 
most graciously, and with quiet satisfaction saw reduced 
to cinders his own bonds for sums so enormous he had 
little hopes of defraying the debt. This is historical ; 
but here the Danes were not first, for Fugger lired 
in Charles ^V.*s reign, some years previous. Time 
rolled on, and Bager had a numerous family, some 
twelve or fourteen — ^you may see them all upon his 
epitaphium. He portioned his daughters, got ruined 
later, and had, like King Lear, to come to his children 
for help and refuge; but they treated him badly. *'He 
had much better," said they, " have kept his bonds, 
instead of ruining himself for his sovereign's sake, and 
becoming a burden to his family." So Ola^ sick at 
heart, determines to try a ruse. He goes round to his 
various friends and merchants with whom he had once 
had dealings, and returns with a heavy coffer, which he 
deposits in a place of safety, weU closed with wrought- 
iron lock and key. He has, he says, received gifts 
from some, from others the payment of debts long due. 
The contents of the coffer he intends to leave by his will 
to the child who treats him best 

A change comes over the spirit of the ungrateful 
offspring ; it is now who shall treat the old man best — 
all love and filial affection. So Bager, laughing in his 
sleeve, ends his days in peace and comfort He can 
make no distinction at his death ; aU have been kind to 
him, " his dutiful children ;" the contents of the cofTer 
are to be equally divided amongst them ; it is heayy 



ttAP. XLYIL THE LEAS OF ODENSE. 257 

enough for alL Olaf Bager is conducted in pomp and 
honour to his last abode, followed by his sorrowing 
descendants. The will is read — ^the coffer opened — and 
lo! they discoyer what? a heap of stones — ^a just 
requital for their undutiful behaviour. 

The schloss gardens form the favourite promenade of 
Odense. Here the military music plays in the erening. 
But notwithstanding its position as a capital^ its patron 
saiDty its cathedral, and its bishop (there was a dance 
at the bishop's last night), we were very glad to mount 
the carriage, and move on along the tiresome chauss^e, 
its dulness alone relieved by an occasional picturesque 
old church nestling among the trees. At last we again 
see the waters of the Great Belt in the distance, and 
drive into the little fortified town of Nyborg. 



VOIi. II. 



iSS NTBOBG* CbAF.XLVm. 



CHAPTER XLVIII. 



Fanen continaed — King Christian 11. and the ape — Deathpkuse tf 
Ellen Marsriin — By-laws of Nyborg — Women to bo bnried aKre— 
Laws of adulteration — King Hans' invitation to his daagfater*i 
christening — Story of Eai Lykke and the Queen — The rival Kises 
— St. G^rge killed the dragon in Denmark — Svendborg, the Pig 
Castle — Gaas made archbishop — Island of Tborseng the apanage 
of Count Yaldemar — Portraits of the House of Oldenborg. 



NYBORG. 

August 3rd. — Ws have passed some Aajs at Njboig; 
too glad to recruit our minds and bodies in the com- 
fortable post-house — an inn of times gone by — ^not aQ 
picturesque and dry-rot like that of Bingkj0ping^ 
but a house built with good large rooms, before the 
world began to economise space ; very cool and com- 
fortable. So our eight days fled rapidly by ; we strolled 
on the rampart heights, we bathed in the waters of the 
fiorde, boated and fished occasionally, and thorongfaly 
enjoyed ourselves. 

Nyborg is not a town of vast pretensions to antiquity ; 
it dates its origin from the " New Castle," long since 
gathered to its sister "borgs." Valdemar the Great 
(though he did beat poor Liden Kirsten to death) wm 
a very good son of the Church after his own peculiar 
manner, and, like many worthy people of the present 
century, very fond of proselytising. He preached Chris- 
tianity church-militantrwise, fire and sword, among tbe 
heathens of Bugen. Prislav, own brother of pagan 



CSAP. XLYIIL CHRISTIAN n« AND THE APE, 259 

King Nudet of the Wends, embraced Christianity, 
and King Valdemar gave him as a reward his sister 
Catherine in marriage, with LoUand as her dower. Her 
son Enud founded here his castle of Nyborg ; he did 
not, however, enjoy it much, for he turned monk for 
Tery peace's sake, and Nyborg fell into the hands of 
the crown* King John much loved this royal residence. 
Here were bom Christian and Protestant Elizabeth of 
Brandenburg, who considered twenty-two years of in- 
carceration quite locking-up enough for one family. 
The days of canonisation were over, and she had no 
iancy to be a martyr. 

Scarcely had Christian opened his eyes to daylight 
when an adventure occurred, which, had it terminated 
&tally, would have saved him a world of trouble. The 
new-bom princeling lay asleep in his cradle, when an 
ape, who formed part of the royal establishment, stealthily 
entering the nursery, lifts him &om the cradle and carries 
him in his arms, laughing and chattering, to the house* 
top. The consternation of the royal household was ex- 
treme, but they acted wisely ; left the monkey to his 
own devices, who, after a time, tired of the office of dry 
nurse, returned his charge uninjured to the place from 
which he had taken him. The same story is told of 
one of the Leinster family and also of Oliver Cromwell. 

In later days Nyborg, with its grand and lofty tower, 
followed the fate of other royal buildings ; it was pulled 
down for its materials, not by that old clothesman the 
second Frederic, but by the bigamous fourth Frederic 
to build up his tmmpery palace of Odense. 

Not being in an excursionising mood when at Nyborg, 
we merely extended our walks to the adjoining manor 
of Holckenhavn, a chateau beautiful in itself as well as 

s 2 



260: yTBoacr. CBAP.zLVin. 

iA its situation, and UBdegraded ; it was onoe teimed 
EUensborgy and was bnilt by Ellen Manriin, as the 
iton crampsy bearing the letters of her name, aniMiimoe» 
date 1616. 

It was here that, some twenty-four years laier,'^ Ellen 
ended her long and successful life in her 78th year. 
We visited the chapel — q)lendid in its carved oak 
fittings ; and there on the wall's side hangs the portrait 
of the foundress painted at the age of 77 — ^no longer 
!^en fair and dunj^ed as at Bosenhofan, nor Ellen 
over^blown as at N0rland, but Ellen an aged woman — 
a fine, strong, green old age — ^in the oostnme of the 
period, with a peaked hat like that of Mother Shiptoo — 
a most interesting picture. At her death — she lies 
buried in the village church of North Broby, with her 
husband, Ludvig Munk — EUensborg passed to Christina 
Munk, and again to her daughter &ir Eleanor UlfeU; 
then came confiscation, and the glory of the Mnnkites 
was at an end. 

By the side of old EUen are two full-length portraita^ 
those of Corfita and Eleanor. 

Every town in Denmark piqued itself on someflung 
in the good old days, and Nyborg appears to h&ve 
vaunted loud and high its salutary by-lov — ^bye4aw wre 
stiLl call it in England — so severe, its very existence 
would have made me let my house, " plier baggage," 
and fiy even to Odense. Such a sumptuary law against 
the wearing of swords at parties — such a chopping off 
of hands for next to nothing — Star Chamber a jcdce to 
it The women, however, were treated with heoomiDg 
respect^ for in one article it is enacted ^that eveiy 

♦ 1648L 



CttAB. XLVIII. BT-LAWS. 261 

qyinde" detected in stealing or being in connivance 
with a thief ^hall be condemned to be hanged, but the 
sentence, on account of her "woman's modesty,'* to 
be commuted to being " buried alive/' 

As for the laws of adulteration, the punishment was 
death; but^ in case of detection, the offenders were 
allowed to decide the matter by arms. Fancy a London 
grocer and twelve of his shop-boys engaged in single 
combat^ in the precincts of the Green Park, against 
twelve adulterated householders, called upon to avenge 
the housekeeping grievances of their outraged house- 
wivea In addition to the losing of heads, whippings, 
and such like, all adulterated goods were declared to 
be confiscated, and were solemnly burnt in the pre- 
sence of the injured citizens. Such a decree might be 
found advantageous even in the present day. 

These bye-laws were just, had they extended to all 

classes; but the magistrates themselves were exempt 

from their severity : for, says the old Danish rhyme, — 

** When the mayor of the city sells ale and wine, 
And the magistrate he kills the sheep and swine, 
When the baker weighs himself his bread. 
The citizens might all as well be dead." 

It is evident coiporation monopolies were not approved 

In a letter existing from King Hans to Bent 
BiMe, Governor of Nyboig, he writes : — " We intend, 
please God, to visit church with our dear wife the 
Sunday next to St Olaf s day, and have our young 
daughter christened. And we beg you to be present at 
that time and the same day with your dear wife, and 
enjoy yourselves with us and seveial friends whom we 
have invited." 



262 JGLORUP, CHAP.XLYin. 



GLORUP. 

Au^fmt 5tk — ^We are off for Svendborg this monon^ 
a drive of sixteen miles, but stop half-way to yisit the 
manor of Glorup, the country residence of Count Moltke, 
famed for its English gardens. English gardens are 
to be mistrusted even in Denmark, where the climate 
assimilates somewhat to our own. The yelyet turf is 
always wanting — ^turf of ages — ^never to be replaced by 
sowings of common grass. Dissect for your amusement 
a small die of our finest sheep-fed English sward, com* 
pressed to dwarfdom ; you will find nearly one hundred 
varieties of plants in the small square ; it is the work, 
the progress of years of vegetation, not to be produced 
by an annual crop ; added to which, did they possess the 
turf itself, the Danes would never understand how to 
take care of it> or allow the time necessary to the gar- 
dener for bringing it to perfection. 

Glorup is a fine old place, with lime-avenues of haH 
a mile in length, unrivalled even in Denmark. A 
long oblong fishpOnd, all in character with the old- 
fashioned building. As a whole it is beautiful, but 
ruined by an Anglomanic taste badly carried out 
The house was built by the celebrated Walkendor( 
minister to Christian lY., and arch enemy of Tycho 
Brahe, whose ruin he plotted from the day of the ** dog 
scene" in the isle of Hveen, His portrait is in the 
village church, together with early tombs of his andemt 
house. Stone carvings of mermaids and mermen 
support the vaultings of the roof, a strange device, as 
these marine monsters were held in the utmost homr 
by the Church of old. In the ballad of Agnete» whea 



Ghap. XLYIIL KAI LTKKE JLKD the queen. 263 

her merman comes to the English church to fetch home 
his spouse, it is song — 

*' When the merman into the chnrch-clofe treads, 
The small saintB and angels avert their heads ;'* 

but they were English saints, and knew how to comport 
themselves. 

We pass on our day's journey not far from Lykkes- 
holm, once the possession of the house of Lykke — 
Lykke the gorgeous, as they were rightly termed, for 
none were richer, nobler, and more magnificent than 
the hero of my story. If ever you visit the Royal 
Library of Copenhagen, ask for the MiiUer collectioDi 
and there, among Denmark's nobles, you will find the 
portrait, after Thomburg, engraved by Haas, of a young 
man, slight in figure, graceful in form, with long hair 
cut short over the forehead The features are not per^ 
haps strictly beautiful in their regularity ; the charm 
must have lain in the expression of his eyes and the 
brilliancy of his complexion. This is the hero of my 
story — Eai Lykke by name, the handsomest (smukkeste) 
and richest young nobleman in all Denmark. His 
beauty became a proverb, and the old rhyme ran — 

** Eveiy fair damsel in Denmark did pray " — 

What they did pray I shan't repeat^ for it was veiy 
bold of them, and they ought to have been ashamed of 
themselves. 

Well, Eai Lykke, handsome, young, and rich, waa 
badly looked upon by the prudish Hanoverian Queen 
Sophia Amalie. He had already been called over 
the coals for a letter (stiU preserved) in which he says 
'Hhe queen stands in intimate connection with her 
lacqueys." This was perfectly true, for she was very 



264 QLOftUP. CiUP. XLYHL 

familiar, and goesiped with her meiiHserraats. 13>e 
stonily howeyer, passed over, on his declaring he niiody 
alluded to her '^ condescending manners." Later Eai 
Lykke marries, but at the same time writes a love-letter 
to a clergyman's wife, in which he declares '^ the most 
noble lady of the land could not resist him :" puppy, if 
you wiUt but the women had made hin^ so. The par- 
son's wife shows the letter to the queen, who, firing uf, 
declares him to be guilty of 1^ majesty ; that she is 
the person alluded to as '^ the most illustrious lady of the 
realm." So Kai Lykke is summoned to appear, hot 
makes his escape as fast as post-horses can carry him; 
not a woman in Denmark who would not have forwarded 
his escape. The indictment is made out, but the letter 
is not produced in court, out of respect to majesty; 
!Kai IB condemned to death ^* tmanimously," his thirteen 
estates confiscated to the crown, the sum of twenty 
thousand dollars being allotted to his wife. 

But Eai is far away; the queen, rabid at the escape 
of her victim, causes him to be executed in effigy, attired 
in the picturesque costume of our Cromwell's time^ 
jerkin, lace collar, and long boots — ^the most gentle- 
manlike costume of any era when free from Puritan 
savour : so the right hand of the mannikin is chopped 
off, the body broken on the wheel, then decapitated, 
exposed, and later shown for money by the heads- 
man, who made a good thing, for all the women of the 
country flocked to see it. 

Eai Lykke's house still stands in Christianahavo, 
near the canal, and is now used for some official pur- 
posa Of his ultimate fate I know nothing. The 
epitaphium of his wife, preserved among the engravings^ 
dlid not excite my sympathy — an uninteresting wishy- 



Chat. XLVm. THE RIVAL inSSESw 2^8 

wafliiy woman, with little twiddling corkscrew curia 
ranged around her face. An angel is represented as 
opening the heavens, and beckoning her with the con* 
soling words — ''The stars op^ and you shall then 
r^ain above what you have lost below." 

A two hours' drive — same sort of country — very 
English, pleasiDg, and compressed — orchards and hops — • 
oottage-gardens, still gay with summer flowers, the 
"Bright-star,"* '' Night-light," t ** Steel-cap," J and the 
more poisonous ''KnightHspur." § The peasant children 
sit, as in England, at the cottage doors, stringing chains 
of the " Thousand Joy " (tusynd £ryd), as they here term 
the daisy. 

Not &r to the right lies the village of Byslinge, a 
very bad neighbourhood from all accounts, where the 
ghosts are still heard ploughing at night-time, and 
apparitions torment the affrighted peasantry. In the 
last century a farmer was so afflicted by their spiritual 
torments he addressed himself to the parish priest^ 
himself a wizard, how to lay them. Very wise was 
the advice given — ^'^ Leave the ghosts in peace, they will 
die out by degrees, and, after a time, will only appear 
once in a century." This same farmer had the luck 
to house the parish Niss, who dwelt in his "high-loft," 
patronized by every one except the watch-dog, who 
could not bear him. This Niss was a great tibief, 
eKtra^parochial ; he stole com from the adjoining ham* 
let of L0rup, while the Niss of that parish returned 
the compliment The fgurmers at last held a Ting, 
and it was dedded some one should be set to watch: 



* Lychnis : FragtBtieme. t Aconite : Stonnhat. 
t iBnothera : Katlys. § Larkapnr : Biddenpixr. 



266 SVENDBOBG, (^UP. XLVHL 

but no one liked to watch the Nisses ; it brijigs ill luck. 
At last the blacksmith was induced, by the promise of 
a sack of wheat from each farmer of the two villagefl^ 
to lie in ambush among the branches of a 'willow, the 
boundary of the two parishes. After a time, he saw horn, 
his hiding-place approach the Niss of ]j0rap, and then 
that of Byslinge, each loaded with a sack of com: 
they met under the willow-tree. *' Hallo !" exclaimed 
the Niss of Eyslinge, *' you rascal — to rob my mast^ ! " 
^ And you, you blackguard, what are you about^ stealing 
the parish com?" Then they fell to %hting, and aftei 
a little time the Niss of Byslinge t66k to his heels. ''I 
got the best of it," said he of Ii0mp, looking up into the 
tree. ^ Yes," said the blacksmith, but he gave you the last 
blow." On hearing this the Niss threw down the sack 
of com, and ran after his antiagonist. The blacksmith 
then jumped from his tree, picked up the two sads 
of wheat, and came home to the Tillage to daim his 
xeward. 

We again get glimpses of the sea, a fiorde, the island 
of Thorseng before us ; we descend a cote ; down a hill 
and up again, and are disembarked at the only hotel of 
the place — the post-inn of Srendborg. 

SVENDBORG. 

Augtist 6th. — Our post-gaard, most conyenienily 
situated for " changing of horses," looks nowhere ; the 
place is full of bathers, and the house noisy. The towa 
itself, perched on a hillnside, must teU better from the 
island of Thorseng, on the opposite side of the fiorde; 
but nothing more soft^ more pretty, can be well de- 
scribed than the wood-clothed banks, extending towards 
Christiansminde. Our first stroll did not however nm 



Chap. XLVni. ST. GEORGE AND THE DRAGON. 207 

that way ; we betook onrselyes in the opposite direction, 

seduced by the tower of a milk-white church rising from 

the woods which embower it : St. J0rgens it is called* 

Here the wicked Danes declare that St. Geoige fought 

the Dragon. Our English St George! a great fib! as 

all men know the combat took place somewhere near 

Tripoli Dragon or no dragon, it is a lovely spot the 

village of St J0rgen& There has been in former times 

an hospital attached to the church, and the view from 

the cemetery is charming. We stopped to gaze at the 

old square court of the prsestegaard, the entrance-door 

shaded by two limes of glorious growth ; and were in fall 

admiration of its picturesque appearance, hay-loaded 

cart and all, when the son of the pastor came out, and 

begged us to walk in the garden and see the new 

house his father had lately completed. The old gaard 

was to come down. It was an excellent modem house 

— of greater appearance, and not ugly; no house in 

Denmark is ever ugly — ^with its high-pitched roofs and 

gables, but a sad exchange for the old limes, the square 

courts and the parlour-windows on the other side, with 

the open balcony commanding the blue waters. ** Chacun 

a son godt, et tons les goiits sont respectables;" so say 

the French. 

These yiUages of Funen, with their abundant fruit- 
gardens and orchards, remind me of Calvados, and 
sometimes of our own more primitive hamlets of Devon- 
shire, by the coast-side : it is rare elsewhere to meet 
rich cultivation and sea combined. The peasant-women 
too wear an eccentric cap— not like the Cauchois, but 
much frilled behind — and such a bonnet! like a 
japanned coal-scuttle, formed of glazed and painted 
carton, bent : you may purchase them flat in the shops. 



268 SVENDBOBa Cbap. XLTHL 

This 18 a splendid place for bathing, and the estaUidi- 
menta — floating ' baths, with cradles for non-swim- 
ming females — ^well-ananged and airy. Jelly-fidi the 
only drawback : beautiful to gaze upon« but most dis- 
agreeable to the touch ; added to which they sting — not 
anything dire, bat a prickly, disagreeable sensation. 

Svendboig rather piques itself on its god£Etther King 
Syend ; though in dd documents of the middle ages it is 
more frequently written Sviin, or " Pig Castle." Ortho- 
graphy, we idl know, was very faulty until the present 
century; and the same name, be it town or fieonily, 
you frequently find written in ten or fifteen diffsreat 
manners. StOl the inhabitants appear to have been 
so touchy on the subject^ and somebody, to clench tht 
matter, composed some doggrel, which he caused to be 
hung up in the church, that I almost beliere there to 
hare been some truth in the assertion. 

A town planted on a hill is always picturesque. It 
is something pleasant to oyerlook your ndghbours' chim- 
neys ; and when the buildings are of ancieht date, queer 
and rambling, with ^storks' nests and fruit-gaidens, 
it adds to the charm. As you pass down the street 
you may read — ^if Danish be, like the French of Paris 
to Chaucer's Abbess, " to you unknown" — ^in the Latin 
tongue many a wise saw, many a good c4d prov^, 
inscribed above the doorways, coeval with the buildings 
themselves. Old saws, proverbs, and such like, are now 
esteemed vulgar ; but many] a good principle, many a 
domestic virtue has soaked into the mind of man as 
well as womankind, solely from the tact of its being 
placed for ever before their eyes. Svendborg was a 
loyal town to the house of Oldenborg, and Christian 
lU. evinced his gratitude for her fidelity in 1535^ 



CkAP. XLTin: THE ISLAKD OF THORSENO. 26» 

'' What can I do/' lie asked of her head magisirate, a 
priest^ one Hans Gaas, ^'to reward your faithful seiv 
Tices?'' '^How," answered the magistrate^ humbly, 
^ ean a poor goose (6aas) like me have done servieo 
to 80 great a sovereign?" Nothing like humility in 
this world: the Geese became ennobled; and Hans, 
Archbishop of Tronyem. 

THE ISLAND OF THORSENG. 

August Stk. — We pass through the pQ|^gaard garden, 
luxuriant in trees laden with unripApples, to the 
detriment of the stomachs, I should imagine, of the 
tribe of babbling children who dwell within — Beductive 
too with skittles and swings ; turn into the road through 
a gate, and by a sharp descent gain the little jetty 
where the ferry*>boa4» already await the passengers for 
Thorseng. A ten minutes' sail* brings us to shore. 
The sun is high in the heavens, and we have a long 
walk before us. Svendborg looks better from the other 
side. Then too you have St George's church and woo(^ 
and ChristJansminde as well; but our first excursioii 
leads us to the church-tower of Bregninge, the highest 
point in the island, from whose summit you gain a 
panoramic view of aU the Danish archipelago — Lolland, 
Langeland, Funen, JEir0y and half a dozen other 0s, 
small fry, unknown to the world in general — ^all very 
flat» very green, very blue, and satisfactory to those who 
ears for bird's-eye views, without a background beyond 
the gray horizon. 

This isle of Thorseng, flat though it be, is fair and 
fi:uitful» the possession of the noble house of Juel, de- 
scendants of the gallant Admiral Niels Juel, whose 



270 TH0BSEN6. ; CmP.XLVflL 

tomb we visited in the Holm chnrch of Copenhagen. 
A pleasant walk along the water-side leads to the resi- 
dence of the lord and master — smiling Yillages, with 
gardens, woods, hops, and orchards — a prosperity to 
make the heart joyful Yaldemar Slot^ it is called—t 
huge pile, with gate-houses spacious enough to fdmisli 
a residence to any moderate-minded man, built by the 
fourth Christian, who gave it, with the rich broad lands 
surrounding, to his eldest son Prince Yaldemar (by 
Christina Munk), that good-looking fellow who hangs 
in the Boyal Gallery of Copenhagen, painted by Cad 
van Mander. He appears to hare been a spoilt boy, 
as most handsome children are, and later in life ran 
wild, causing his father some trouble. Christian writes 
word to his son-in-law Corfitz Ulfeld, in a letter dated 
14th September, 1643: ''Count Yaldemar Christian 
leaves this to-morrow on a journey through Denmaik. 
Grod grant him a happy journey ! He has cost me mndi 
money. Pray Heaven this may be the last ! If yoa 
don't make him carefdl, he will soon spend all tho 
money I have given him before he comes to Copen- 
hagen, notwithstanding he has got here all that he 
wanted ; besides which he owes the tailor 20,000 speQie.** 
An extravagant dog was Count Yaldemar. He endea- 
voured to persuade Corfitz to go security for him, and 
^ back his bills." So, to keep him out of scrapes, his 
father sends him off on an embassy* to Moscow, and 
negotiations are entered into for marrying our scafe^ 
grace to the Bussian Princess Irene; when all was 



* The yeiy same embassy to which Count Horn, whoee epitaphinm 
we admired at Kiel, was appointed secretary. 



Chap. XLVIH. VALDEMAR SLOT. 27t 

ananged, Yaldemar refhsed to be baptised according 
to the Greek Church after the Muscovite manner. On 
his first introduction into the Czar's presence, by way of 
seeking &vour with his future father-in-law, he kissed 
the sceptre. The Bussians declared that from henceforth 
he became the vassal of the emperor. When Yaldemar 
discovered this, he determined to leave secretly ; accom- 
panied by three of his attendants, he tried to escape 
through Poland. On arriving at the gate of the city after 
dark, he was recognised and stopped ; and, after a pitched 
battle between his servants and the Muscovites, was 
taken prisoner, and kept secure until the death of the 
Emperor Michel, when he was set at liberty. On his 
way home he carried off a young lady from Warsaw, 
deserted her, and she drowned herself in the Sound at 
Elsinore. After Ulfeld's rebellion, disgusted at the 
coldness with which he was treated by his half-brother 
Frederic in., he joined the party of his brother-in-law 
in Sweden, and died in Poland, an officer in the Swedish 
service. 

Yaldemar Slot is an ugly pile of brickwork exter- 
nally, much degraded, and now, alas! in Chancery, a 
lawsuit between two brothers. It is however worthy of 
a visit, with its gallery of portraits, one of the most in- 
teresting in Denmark, but fearfully neglected, being unap- 
preciated by the possessors. In one of the great saloons 
are hung those of the early sovereigns of the house of 
Oldenborg, from Frederic II. downwards, aU on horse- 
back ; each horse, however, follows that of his prede- 
cessor, giving the whole the appearance of a royal 
carousal or merry-go-round. 

It was Frederic III. who, as " cadet du sang," com- 
menced life as Archbishop of Bremen — a world of trouble 



272 . THOBSENO. CBAP.ZLVBL 

his father had to get him appointed.* There he is ; 
most ecclesiastical too he lookeH-as like a bishop as the 
Duke of York dkl ci Osnaburg — k cheyal, armed eap4- 
pie, distinguished alone from his biethr^i by the stardied 
plaited ruff of the Lutheran clergy. His duties cannot 
have been onerous^ though to me the wearing at the friQ 
would have been worse than all the penances and Pal- 
ings of the Bomish ChurcL We mount the staircase; 
on the landing-place hang all the family of the fouitb 
Christian — ^heary, drunken Prince Christian, who made 
way for his bx)ther the bishop and his wife Madaleaa of 
Saxony, she with feather-fan in hand and lapdog by her 
side ; Prince Yaldemar, the possessor, though he ne?^ 
resided there, a fine boy — a child to be proud o^ as 
indeed all Christian's were. And those fair ladies widi 
golden powdered hair, high roffi, and somewhat unco- 
yered, looking-glasses and pearls. Who be they? 
" Those," replied the conductress, " are the twelts 
frilles of King Christian." Powers above! twelve! 
Lump together all the demi-monde of that immoral court 
— all the Kirstens, Karens, Vibekes — ^you caa never 
number twelve ; but they are very pretty women, mndi 
superior to the portraits of Bosenborg. I moat take 
the liberty of vindicating three from this sweeping 
verdict : those three exquisite creatures who hang below 
bekmg to another period, somewhat later, and are, if I 
mistake not, authentic copies of some of our English 
beauties of Hampton Court. One I imagine to be ths 
Princess of Orange, Mary Stuart, daughter of Charles I 
— she was good at any rate ; a second, highly rouged, not 

* The best portrait of Frederic HL is that by Wuchter, with Kion- 
borg in the background, engraved by Haelwech, gone the ¥ra7 of all 
Duiiah piotiire»— bamt in some conflagration. 



Chap. XLVIU. OLDENPOBO PORTRAITS. 273 

unlike the haughty and imperions Castlemaine, whom I 
have ahready met with in Eosenborg ; the third, a lady 
of King Charles's court, surpassingly lovely. Not to 
linger, we have, among many others of interest, Queen 
Loui£& of England in all her youth and beauty. What 
majesty ! what a presence! Her portrait is not rare in 
Funen. Then there is Niels Juel, first as a boy — ^hofjun- 
ker to Duke Frederic — in red jacket and silver buttons, 
something like that worn at a Spanish bull-fight ; again 
repeated, surrounded by his victories, as Admiral, Enight 
of the Elephant, &c., a table with the names of his ves- 
sels, his captains, lieutenants, and officers, down to the 
lowest grade. But of all the portraits of the Juel house, 
there is one most charming, a lady of the last century, 
missal in hand, comiag out of church, the light of a set- 
ting sun falling on her dress through the mullions of a 
Gothic window, one of those effects of light so much 
loved by some of the Dutch painters ; the master un- 
known. 

My opinion is that to see these islands in their fullest 
beauty we should have visited them in the month of 
May, in the new-bom luxuriance of early spring-time, 
before the harvest is gathered iu and the green fields 
become stubble. In these northern climes the summer 
is bright, but short The months of May and June, though 
the days are prolonged till midnight, and twilight is only 
a cloud passing over the fair face of nature, yet are 
but of thirty days, and soon fly by. Could we extend 
the year to fifteen months, one more summer quarter, 
it would be a great convenience. 

We had another excursion to make from Svendborg 
before leaving — ^to the pretty wood of Christiansminde, 
which we gained iu a boat, and on— a pleasant walk — to 

VOL. II. T 



274 - TH0BS£N6. Chap.XLTDL 

Bj0meina9e (no bears there now), the pictareeqae 
chateau of Baron Bille Brahe — somewhat bare, bat 
backed by woods and fair gardens, a residence fitted for 
modem oceupaticm and the enjoyments of the pies^ 
age, well placed on the extreme end of the Svendboig 
fiorde. Visit it> if you are ever at Svendboig, and retos, 
as we did, by water. 



Chav.XLIX. LT0 island. -275 



CHAPTEE XLIX. 



The Island of Ly0 — Capture of King Valdemar by hia treacherous 
vassal — Kirstine Mnnk and her children — Horns of Wedellsborg — 
Marksmen of Middel£eirt — Snogh0i in Jutland — Brahe, the King 
of Funen — Island of Thor0, and Balder's stone — Ellen Marsviin 
married again ; turns cattle-dealer — Her game of cards with the 
king — Island of Langeland and the giant Bud — Sir Otto Krump'e 
defence of TranekjaBr, 



ISLAND OF LY0. 

Auffust lO^A.— We had imagined a steamer to Assens, 
but find it goes alternate days, and to-day we 
must sleep on the opposite coast, at Aar0smid, in Jut- 
land. We pass by the island of Thorseng, terribly 
in the way; it blocks up the beautiful Svendborg 
fiorde, while it adds but little to the view. Coasting 
by St George's wood and village, a very archipelago 
of small islets, Skaar0, and half a dozen other 08, 
make their appearance. They are all flat and um'n- 
teresting, and the banks of Funen itself nothing to 
speak of. At last we enter a fiorde, and the little town 
of Faaborg lies before us, distinguished from her sisters 
by her praiseworthy attempt at a quay, and avenues 
planted along its side. Faaborg might become a 
•watering-place, and prosper, if it only would have 
lodging-houses by the water-side. We unload some 
pedestrian students, pipe in mouth and valise in hand — 
I should not like to walk through Funen, or indeed Den- 
mark, much too flat and dusty — and then proceed. 
Steam past Bear Island ; and now, after turning the 

T 2 



276 170 ISLAND* Chip. XLEL 

Knollen Point, another green islet appears in Tiew— 
islet celebrated in Denmark's early history. A sad 
celebrity too it bears ; for from the event which there 
occurred dates the downfall of her country's greatness. 
In the ballad of * Dronning Leonora/ King Yaldemar 
exclaims — 

'* Full well we recollect the hunting of Ly0.*' * 

It was on the eye of the 7th of May, in the year 1223, 
that Valdemar the Victorious, and his elected son Yal- 
demar the younger, reposed after a hard day's hunting, 
not far from a fountain which still bears the name rf 
Kongens Kilde. Soundly they slept in their tents, littb 
imagining the danger by which they were menaced. 
Suddenly, in the dead of the night, they are attacked 
and seized by the armed bands of their vassal Count 
Henry of Schwerin, and carried prisoners to the fortreas 
of Lenzen, in Altmark, where they remained for three 
years.t In vam the pope threatened, in vain otte 
sovereigns solicited their liberation. Valdemar at last 
obtained his liberty by having first surrendered his 
conquests, and renounced all future claim to their pos- 
session. Old Hvidtfelt thus quaintly describes the 
unfortunate event i — 

" They sat in the tower in irons and strong chains 
for three years, at which every man, both princes and 
people, were greatly surprised that so insignificant a 

* The High House— det h0ie huus — ^so often spoken of in &e idaad 
of Ly0, and which is now part of the priest's gaard, is of later date tfaaa 
Valdemar, for he slept in the open air. 

t When Ooimfc Henry of Bchwerin went on a pilgrimage to tiio Holy 
Land, he confided the countess to the charge of his sovereign — Queen 
Berengaria was dead — and it was to revenge the seduction of his wife by 
tlie king that Count Henry undertook the expedition. The Prinoes 
Erik and Abel remained as hostages for seven years. 



Chap. XLIX. CAPTURE OF KING VALDEMAR. 277 

cottnt could imprison so powerful a king and his son 
mihout a blow being struck in their behalf, or the 
spilling of blood." 

Well might the world be astonished that the pusil- 
lanimous Danes did not rise as one man, and lay waste 
iwdth fire and sword the country of Schwerin. The 
excuse they assigned was, that their soyereign would have 
been removed to some more distant fortress, and his 
liberation rendered more diflScult to procure. But Henry 
of Schwerin was but a petty count, and had the Danes 
acted with proper pluck they might easily have invested 
.his dominions. It is more probable that the 0prorious 
nobility of those days were glad to be &ee &om the 
control of a sovereign who, while he had added to the 
national glory of their country, ruled them with a rod 
of iron, and repressed with a firm hand their unlawful 
enterprises. 

We steam past the little island, which still retains 
its "reputation giboyeuse" — hares and partridges 
abound there ; it is now the property of Baron Holstein. 
Leaving Assens to the right, we enter the little har- 
bour of Aar08und. " You will have to sleep at Haders- 
lev," said a passenger; "no possible inn at Aar0sund." 
But my faith in Jutland kros is strong ; and we found 
one, where, had we had leisure and time at our disposal, 
v^e would willingly have lingered some days — a long 
one-storied house, built near the fiorde side : sitting- 
rooms opening on the sward, with garden and large 
timber-trees, seats underneath, and bathing-cabins not 
far removed. There is no doubt we are again in Jut- 
land: the air is pure, bracing, and fragrant— quite 
different from the soft, mild atmosphere of the islands. 
A brother traveller, affected with what he called "the 



278 WEDELISBOBG. Gbap. XUX. 

faUing^cksesB"— epfleptic fits — ^was soddenly attacked 
towards early dawn^ causing great constematioii in our 
quiet kro, otherwise we should have slept like princes, 
for our linen was of the finest texture, white as the driTeo 
gnow, smelling strong of iris and lavender ; our beds wero 
covered with couvrepieds of old embroidered silk»— 
wreaths of jasmine on a sea-green ^und— drawn in our 
honour from the bidden recesses of an ancient carved 
wardrobe some three centuries old or upwards. 

WEDELMBORG. 

Atigtut 11th. — ^The steamer would wait for us one 
small half-hour, did we wish it ; but the mail arrives in 
time, and we are ready on board. We disembark at 
Assens, and wander about the town while horses are 
preparing. Nothing remarkable in Assens ; she is busy 
restoring her fine old church, and does it welL A little 
wool trade too she possesses of her own: beyond this ask 
nothing— one small Danish town is own twin sister to 
another. 

We drive on to Wedellsborg — Grefskab, or comity, 
of Count WedeU — another of those Danish paradises 
by the water-side, imbedded in woods. The house 
is of no architectural pretensions, but most comfortable 
to live in. Among the numerous portraits is one of 
Christina Munk, with her three eldest daughters* — 
small girls. First Anna, betrothed to Count Eantzao, 
who was drowned before his marriage in the moat d 

* Elizabeth Angiista, wife of HaoB Lindenoy— a fourth dandier of 
Christina Munk— was the ancestreas of the WedeU family, and mother of 
the bad Baroness of the ** windy waste '* near Aalborg. She gambled 
away aU her possessions, and, after great poverty, lived on a emiU 
pension given by Christian Y. 



Chap. XLDC HORNS OF WEDELISBOBO. 279 

BoBenborg, and she died of grief. Sophia Elizabeth, 
a child of great beauty, who married Count Christian 
Fenz. A woman of spirit, a great flirt too, she was — so 
much so as to scandal^ her royal father, who writes ^ 
word how '* Sophia Elizabeth is to be reprimanded on 
account of her flighty behayiour with Christian Penz,** 
just too when he was so busy about her grandmother, 
good Queen Sophia^s funeral She secondly married 
Holger Wind, who at the time of TTlfeld's disgrace 
deserted her : so in her anger she returned his portrait 
with the eyes " clawed out," just to show him how she 
would haye served him had he been within her reach. 
Lastly Eleanor. The three' little girls are dressed 
exactly like their mamma, in buekramed farthingales, 
scarlet red, and starched mffis, gold powdered hair. 
Prince Yaldemar, just out of bed in his little shirt, and 
a small dog, complete the group. Corfitz and Eleanor 
Ulfeld in their early days, before trouble and sorrow 
had thinned their locks and wrinkled their youth and 
beauty. The WedeU family descend from a grand- 
daughter of Christian lY., and in the £sumily chapel of the 
church of Wedellsborg you may see this king's portrait 
suspended to the walls, dead on his *^lit de parade," 
somewhat like a chandelier, in a scarlet pelisse fastened 
together with bows, his legs swathed up in fine linen or 
muslin with a bow at the end. 

It was near Wedellsborg that two of those splendid 
Scandinayian horns were discoyered; one, the finest 
specimen, is here preserved, and hangs in the dressing- 
room of Count WedeU ; the other was forwarded to the 
Museum at Copenhagen. And now, after taking leave, 
we proceed on our journey, and, before arriving at Mid- 
del&xt, stop to visit the far-feoned manor of Hindsgavl, 



280 HIDDELFART. Chap.XUX. 

where in former timed a royal castle of much repute 
stood; but, ^'jetons leg souyenirs aux ortieSy" W9 
do not require them here ; for such a scene of loyelinefis 
as is presented to the eye from the manor-gardens ii 
seldom to be witnessed. The wooded shores of Jutland, 
the indentation of the coast, the island of Foen0 and her 
'^ calf/' combined with the blue waters of the Little Belt 
—the prettiest cerulean cincture that oyer girt a fruit- 
ful isle — all combine together in smiling oolouiing and 
beauty. 

The old castle had the honour of being burnt and 
sacked, together with Middelfart, by Marsk Stig,* 
who to these islands became a great scourge — ^too well 
he fulfilled his promise to the youthfid Menyed, laying 
waste, burning, and destroying; and then HindsgaTi 
after passing through a deal of war and bloodshed, wai 
finally blown up and destroyed by the Swedes in the 
unlucky war of the 17th century — a ** genteel " ending 
for a Danish fortress. 

N.B. — ^The fitrms of the island of Funen are veiy 
extensiye, though not quite on the same scale as thoee 
of Jutland and the Duchies. The rat-charmer ci 
Bingkj0bing must be sadly wanted in these parts, (en 
in one manor we yisited the proprietor kept upwards ol 
sixty cats. 

MIDDELFART, 

August 12^A.— We find Middelfart in fiill gala. Stuht 
wagens arriye from the earliest dawn; something is 
about to happen it is eyident : so we inquire. A grand 
popinjay match comes off in the wood near Hindsgayl, 

•1290. 



Chap. XLIX. SNOGH0I. 281 

followed by a rustic ball, to last all night, and late next 
morning too perhaps. 

W© wander to the scene of action. The shooting is 
fair enough — ^nothing like the Tyrol marksmen, but the 
" hane" comes tumbling down occasionally. We could 
not, however, remain, for we had friends at Snogh0i, on 
the Jutland coast, and were engaged to pass the evening 
there. 

I have described so many herregaards, that it may be 
something novel to visit a real Danish villa, and a 
prettier specunen can nowhere be found than that of 
Snogh0L Planted by the ferry-side, a long low house, 
with well-proportioned rooms, built for comfort, not for 
state, terminated by a large, square, open loggia, em- 
bowered in clematis ; its look-out, MiddelfiEul;, most pic- 
turesque of all towns when viewed from the Little Belt 
and the adjoining forests. Behind rises a hill, laid out 
in the prettiest of gardens, an arboretum of rare shrubs 
and forest trees, pines and araucarias. The whole have 
been planted by the proprietor, M. de Eiegels — ^twice 
planted ; for in the war of '49 and '50 Snogh0i was the 
* scene of strife and bloodshed ; her fiEdr plaisaunced 
destroyed, and rendered uninhabitable to the fiamily for 
three years. Now all again is smiling; a rock-work 
of cannon-baUs alone chronicles the previous devasta* 
tion of the property. While we strolled in the hsa\pr\g 
gardens of the villa, brilliant with summer flowers, the 
youthful members of the families fished from a punt in 
the waters of the Belt, whiting and flounder their prey. 

The moon rises red and tawny — just like the 
opera; but we are in honest respectable Denmark, 
far from the land of Cherubinos and Almavivas. 
When people say "Buona notte" here they mean 



282 HIDDELFAirr. Chap. XUX. 

it, and donH go skrimmaging abont after dark, bat 
go to bed with a good thick duvet covering artop 
of them, be it July or even the dog-days, and 
deep and snore in their short conches till the next 
morning. 

It was late, nigh midnight^ when we quitted Snoghri 
and our kind Mends, and again embarked for Middel- 
tart. We had breeze enough Ihis time, but a side ones. 

The waters of the Little Belt sobbed bitterly against 
our boat side as we floated along. " Ton are goin^'* 
cried a little wavelet, as I bent over the stem side, 
watching the reflection of the full moon in the silvery 
waters, '^you are again going to leave our shores— 
you, who above all travellers love and appreciate onr 
wide plains, our old manors, the ancient histories and 
the legends of our people." But I answered to the 
wavelet how I hoped to return at some future period, 
and should never forget the happy days we had 
spent in her ancient manors and her windy provinces; 
how I admired her fertile lands, and wished that more 
capital could be invested in developing the natund 
resources of the country ; but that now, the first sod 
of her moses once turned, her railroads in progress, 
much would be done towards the improvement of her 
agriculture and the enrichment of her proprietors. 
Now perhaps her gentry would at last discover and 
appreciate the wealth of the manure rotting idle in 
their stagnant moats — would cleanse them, as we are 
about to do our own Serpentine, to the general sup- 
pression of fever, rheumatism, and ague, only too preva- 
lent in her inland parishes. And then tac^ tack, went 
the barque, the wavelet leaps up, imprints a briny kiss 
lipon my forehead, and dancing, rolls on, to repeat my 



Cbxp. XUX, BRAHESBORQ. 283 

answer to her companiona — jeBy tack, tack, went the 
boat Talk of the ' Song of the Shirt,' " stitch, stitch I ** 
write the ' Song of the Sail,' just as odious in its own 
way, '^ tack, tack !" shooting off to right or left, as the 
wind may be, some 200 yards, when you £ancy yourself 
all arrived at your destination. But we are at last 
arrived, and bid a long, but I hope not last, good night 
to the shores of old windy Jutland. 

BRAHESBORQ. 

Augtut IStk — ^We retrace our steps a part of the 
way to Assens, to stop and spend the day at Brahes- 
borg, the chateau of M. de Trescow. No' doubt who 
built Brahesborg — J0rgen Brahe, and somebody Gyl- 
denstieme his wife* — iron cramps, holding letters long 
as those of St, Peter's dome, announce the feet — 
a custom luckily chiefly confined to Funen, by no 
means ornamental ; he seems to have been somebody 
in his day, was nephew to poor ill-treated Tycho, and 
called '^ the little King of Funen." He appears indeed 
to have been a very 1/brquis of Carabas of these parts, 
—possessor of Brahesminde, Brahesborg, Brahesholm, 
Brahetrolleborg, and half a dozen others — ^many passed 
into other hands, while the some six manors of the 
present family belonged to somebody else. It's aston- 
ishing how property changes hands in Denmark. 

J0rgen desired his workmen to build a house which 
should last till the world's end ; it may, for its cellars 
are vaulted like a fortress of the 19th century ; it is, 
however, more remarkable for simple solidity than 
for. the beauty of its architecture. There was an era 



* The epitaphium of J0rgen Brahe U engrayed by Haelweoh. 



284 BRAHESBORa Chap. XLIX; 

of Ugliness in Denmark, from the middle of the 
17th century till the commencement of the 18th— 
houses imposing from their size alone. The apartments 
are grand and spacious. The portraits of the sorere^DS 
of the house of Oldenborg give dignity to the mansian; 
an old loyal custom, now nearly out of fashion. It ii 
astonislung how few of Thorvaldsen's works are to be 
found in his natiye land Brahesborg is an exception; 
for here we haye the Kneeling Ganymede, work of the 
artist himself. All Denmark ia now in full Tacatioo 
— Sor0 and Herlu&hobn, Copenhagen, Odense, and 
the high schools of the provinces ; in each manor we 
find a merry party of youth of both sexes — ^twelve or 
fourteen cousins and relatives — spending their holidayi 
together. To those who have dwelt in France, where 
o£bpring are scarce, such an assemblage appears quite 
patriarchal, but the chateaux are large, and the hearli 
of the proprietors as large as their dwelling-houses are 
spacious. I have seldom come across more happy, 
joyous family -parties than during my residence in 
Denmark. Everything is ample and liberal at the 
table — well served and no display. The men-aervanti 
wait» but) if the family are extra numerous, the women 
aid in the service. People here all know their positicn, 
and are quite above vulgar absurdities. 

And now my sojourn in Funen is merely a series of 
hospitalities received. Holstenshuus, where we passed 
another pleasant day, the seat of Baron Holsten, not 
£Eur from Faaborg, more remarkable for the glorious 
view over the Little Belt and the Danish Archipelago 
than for its mansion, an old striped house, an autumn 
pied-a-terre of the proprietor. 

At one mile distant from Svendborg we have Hvid* 



Crap. XLIX. . EGESKOV. 285 

kilde, chateau of Baron Holsten Lehn, the gem of all 
Funen mansions of the last centuy. A wondronB 
fountain, from which it derives its name, casts up its 
waters like an artesian weU by the side of the house, 
fertilising the plains, the gardens, and refreshing the 
moat itsel£ EverTthing that luxury, art, and good 
taste can give is here to be met with — ^gardens and 
hothouses, fountains and fine old furniture, the rooms 
fitted up with aU the comfort and good taste of a first* 
rate English country residence ; fEirms of a large extent, 
poultry-houses, pheasantries. 

In the lake hard by has lain hid, says tradition, a 
vast treasure of gold and silver for 200 years. The 
Swedes, laden with the pillage of the rifled island, 
endeavoured to convey it across the ice ; a scuffle with 
the Boers ensued, the ice . gave way, and the cart, 
treasure and all, sank to the bottom. 

We are determined to visit no more chateaux ; several 
were on our list, some of historic interest ; but each 
succeeding day starts up some new object So at last, in 
despair — ^for the summer glides on ; we have no longer 
the long light nights to travel through as when in 
Jutland — deaf to temptation, we prepare to leave for 
the sister island. One chateau, a gem of ancient days, 
a jewel of mediaeval architecture, I did regret, but it 
was, alas I uncomeatable, and that was Egeskov, the 
property of Baron Bille Brahe. 

There are dark tales in relation to this mansion, illus- 
trative of the manners even of fourth Christian's period. 
Laurits Brokkenhuus then was lord of Egeskov — a hard, 
brutal man, known well for his cruel and revengeftd 
disposition. Among the fairest of Queen Anne Cathe- 
rine's ladies stood his daughter Bigborg, distinguished 



286 BRAH£SB0B6, Chap. XLDl 

alike for the charms of her person as well as for the 
fascmation of her maimers. Morals, as we aU know, in 
King Christian's court were at a sadly low ebb ; and in 
the year 1590 the frail Rigborg gave birth to a son — 
Frederic Bosenkrantz, of Bosenyold, the reputed father. 
Furious at the disgrace of the family honouTy the en- 
raged father of lUgborg demanded that the seducer be 
(according to the laws of the day) ignominiously branded, 
and undergo a fearful pimishment as well as the loeB 
of two fingers, and that his daughter be immured for 
life. Immuring consisted at that time of incarceration 
within a room, bricked up like the fanatic recluses of 
the Soman Church, a small aperture alone left open 
for the introduction of the prisoner's nourishment ; no 
light (No wonder poor Elizabeth of Brandenburg 
scampered off from old Joachim at the very idea of 
such a fate ; she had heard enough of it in her own 
native Denmark.) 

The barbarous sentence on Bosenkrantz was com- 
muted by the king, and he went to fight against tltf 
Turks, where he met his death. 

Poor Rigborg 1 Christian — a roi galant himself— 
should have interfered in your behalf, but he did not 
She was safely immured in a small dark turret chamber, 
on the second story of the tower of Egeskov, and here 
she pined through five long weary years, until one fine 
day her father was called to his last account, and she 
released by her brothers from her fearful thraldom. As 
she did not die during her incarceration, it is to be 
hoped her ghost does not haunt the scene of her former 
misery ; in all probability she had enough of it during 
her five years' imprisonment never to return there 
afterwards, even in " spirit" 



Chap. XLIX. THOR0. 287 



ISLAin) OF THOB0. 

The small island of Thor0 we did not explore, for the 
weather was still hot, and it would scarcely have repaid 
the trouble. 

Lake Ly0 and others of the same calibre, it formed 
a natural deer-garden for the early Danish kings ; and 
in Valdemar's Jorde-Bog is mentioned as good for the 
hunting of " hart, doe, and roe." In earlier times still, 
on a site close by the bay, lay a stone called Balderssten, 
tinder which they say was buried the giant who is sung 
in the ksempeyisen : — 

" Bftlder, his wife, and Enne, 
They had a great fight upon Fnne, 
Or some say on Thor0 ; 
And Balder he heat Rune." 

The name of Balder has been handed down to pos- 
terity by the song which at Christmas-time is still sung 
in chorus by the children in many parts of Denmark 
during the appUcation of the nine blows inflicted on the 
culprit in the game of forfeits. 

•* Blows we now heat three, 
One after the other in time, 
Kor will the sinner to free 
Until he 's got his nine." 

After the ninth blow he is released. Balder and Bune 
came to grief about Balder's wife ; Rune endeavoured 
to escape in a boat, but when he was driven into the 
bay, near where the stone stood, Balder caught him 
and crushed him with the big flat stone, on which the 
prints of his ten fingers were distinctly to be seen. 
The stone was surrounded by trees, and was in all 



288 THOR0. Ceap. XLCC 

probability a menhir, but has now entirely disappeared. 
Later, Thor0 came into the possession of Ellen Mai9* 
viin, who here first appears in a new light — ^no longer 
Ellen Munk, but as a bride, wife of Knud Bud of 
Sandholt, one of the richest noblemen in all Den- 
mark, who died in 1611. Here she carried on a 
great traffic in "stald0xene" (cattle), furnished the 
king's troops, and well too ; for a French writer, in this 
very year, after praising the appearance of the Danish 
sailors and the army on board the fleet, adds, ''There is 
no luxury, but a wonderful abundance of good meat^ as 
well as all the necessaries of life." Old EUen built here 
a stone house, called Marsviinsholm. She was, how- 
ever, hard on the peasants, imlike her first husband, 
Ludwig Munk, who was the model landlord of his age; 
so her memory is not revered. The people tell how 
one day she staked the island of Thor0 against his 
Majesty at cards, and lost it. At first Ellen declared ii 
was only fun, that she never played in earnest^ but 
Christian was not to be put off in that way ; ao she 
begged to keep it until after crop-time ; and, to spite the 
king, sowed thistles ; the land in consequence became 
so bad the king would not have it She got into hot 
water with the Church, to which she had no idea of 
being a benefiwjtor without ruling and regulating all 
appointments even down to the gravedigger. She it 
was who brought the celebrated altarpiece from Delam 
Cloister to Thor0, on which were the portraits of 
Christian L and Queen Dorothea, which were lost on 
their way to Copenhagen. Eleven years later she gaTe 
up the island to the king, to complete the apanage of 
his grandson, young Count Valdemar. 



Chap. XLIX. LANGELAKD. 289 

ISLAND OP LANGELAND. 

August 16th. — ^A small boat is engaged to carry 
tis to Langeland ; we may be two, we may be four 
hours, perhaps longer; all depends upon the wind. 
Down comes a pelting shower, rendering departure at 
six an impossibility. Had it fallen yesterday — tenth 
Sunday after Trinity — ^great would have been the 
anxiety of the peasants, and woe to the crops, for on 
that day " our Lord wept over Jerusalem." Our 
course lies in the opposite direction to that of last week ; 
we float down the narrow fiorde towards Christiansminde 
and Bj0mem0se, and theh turning, twisting, and tacking 
by Thorseng and its sister isle of Thor0, until you get 
into an open sea, pass by an islet called Si0 and two 
other little 08, and gradually float — ^for the breeze is 
lulled, what little there is of it — ^into the harbour of 
Rudkj0bing, Every town in these parts turns out a 
something kj0bing. A wondrous giant. Bud by name, 
lies interred near here, and gives his name to the 
capital of Langeland. Tranekjser, the seat of Count 
Ahlefeldt, is the lion of the island, and thither, towards 
the evening, we bent our way. It was once a chfiteau- 
fort of some consideration in the middle ages, and 
stands placed on an eminence commanding a view of 
the surroimding archipelago, &c. 

In the reign of King Christian II., Sir Otto Krump— 
the same Sir Otto we found buried in the church of 
Mariager — held the strong castle of Tranekjaer for the 
royal party. Among the correspondence of the King 
is a letter dated Tranekjser, 5th March, 1523 : endorsed, 
by the king's own hand, " Sir Otto Krump's letter to 
the King's Majesty, in which he writes to gay he will to 

VOL. IL u 



290 ULNGELAND. Chap. XT.IX. 

him be 200 tlialefs." We visited the park, extensive and 
English-like, and the gardens ranning down to the lake 
side^ its orchard, and the sward as green as a polished 
emerald. From the blue waters of the lake rises a 
small, very small, island, like those we keep for swans 
to bmld their nests on. Around the edges was planted a 
garland of that large creeper,* with a leaf the size of 
a catalpa, so commonly seen running over snmmer^hoass 
in England. It grew luxuriantly, its tendrils ranning 
down and boating in the limpid waters ; then from the 
centre of this trailing border rose a pyramid of hollj- 
hocks — ^red, yellow, white, and rose-coloured — dancing 
and nodding in the breeze : some stand stiff and stately, 
scarcely reflected in the lake below; whilst others, 
NarciBSUs-like, bend forward, longing to catch a glimpse 
of their golden and roseate petals in the pure mirrcv. 

Langeland is termed un vrai jardin. WeU, it may 
be one, for what I know — its villages, its hop-gardens* 
its orchards are prosperous, the wild vine is in fuD 
luxuriance and flower, its churches in good repair — aQ 
tells of a resident landlord who does his duty in that 
station of life in which he is placed — ^but somehow I 
don't care for fertility when travelling ; we have enou^ 
of hedges and ditches in England; all is prosperous, 
and, like Alexander Selkirk's complaint of his beasts, 

" Their tameness is shockiBg to me." 

So we retuined to our hotel, and the next morning 
drove over to the ferry, where we re-embarked for 
LoUand. 

* AriBtolocfaia sipbo. 



Cup. I. LOLLAND. . ' 201 



CHAPTEB L. 



laland of Lolland — Tnle-feast of Olaf Hunger — Wendiah fietmilies from 
Bvgen — Boyal ordixiuices — Lnthenn' clergy — Sir Edwaid the 
Pedagogue Priest — Shell of the S wedei — Mr. Unina and our Prince 
George — Birthplace of Erik Glipping — The Curate of Helated and 
the mother*8 curse — Tale of Sir Otto Bud and King John — Rere- 
lationa of St. Bridget — The ill-behayed nuna of Maribo — Graye 
of Eleanor Ulfeld — Kiug Charles ** forgets " the loan — Eleanor in 
captivity and death — The bricked-up lady of Hardenberg. 



ISLAND OP LOLLAND OR LAALAND.* 

August 11th. — The Danes had told us it was a nasty 
passage over to Taars, and advised us to steam from 
Kors0r, — ^which advice was gratefully received, but 
we followed the bent of our own inclinations. The 
wind was really favourable ; in four hours* time we were 
landed at Taars, and then had to wait that never- 
ending hour till the horses were procured and ready. 

Womankind is admirable in travelling ; it rises early 
and bears fatigue, is easily contented at the inns with 
bed and board; it will do and put up with anything, 
except " wait." What are we to do ? A whole hour, 
and those horses never come ; infamous ! — ^write to the 
postmaster, &c. &c. So, for very peace sake, we (for the 
family is now increased by the arrival of the Philistines, 
or, in plain English, a black-and-tan terrier called Vic, 
and two schoolboys from Harrow) throw up a barricade 
at once against all possible grumblings ; we undress, we 

* The Danes speU it either way. 

U 2 



292 . LOLLAND. Chip. t. 

swim out to sea, and remain floating in the water; if 
any one approaches ns are "just commg out," and so 
the hour glides by, the horses arrive, and we scramble 
out, dress, and reappear just in time to escape scold- 
ing, and not keep people waiting. 

According to Helyaderus, a chronicler of early date, 
the flat fertile island of Lolland was first populated 
some 2000 years after the world's creation by men fiom 
Jutland ; and at as early a period as the seyenth cen- 
tury did a wandering apostle of the true faith, Wilibrod 
by name, preach Christianity to the Pagans of this 
remote region, — without success, however, it appears; 
for it was not until Harald Blue-Tooth tacked on Lolland 
to his new-founded diocese of Odense, that Christianity 
can be said to have been there established even in name. 
Not that the introduction of the new faith profited the 
inhabitants much ; indeed, how could it? a creed forced 
upon a people by fire and sword, while they still dni^ 
in their inmost hearts to the worship of Thor, Odin, and • 
other Scandinavian heroes, whose bloody deeds and wild 
traditions were more in accordance with the barbarous 
fierceness of the age than the nulder tenets of Christi- 
anity. 

Terrible were the sufferings of the unhappy islanders 
during the succeeding century, from plague, pestilence, 
and famine. Thousands are said to have perished from 
hunger alone, as well as from the devastations of the 
epidemic So great was the scarcity, the bareness of 
the land, that it is related when King Olaf Hunger 
(famine was his name) himself sat down on one Christ- 
mas Eve to keep the Yule-feast together with his Court, 
there was no bread, no, not one wheaten loaf served on 
the royal table. A very dull Christmas, with such poor 



Chap. L. ROYAL ORDINAKCES. 293 

fare, he must have had of it. Still, among these scourges 
of £unine and plague, churches rose in the land. Three 
still exists founded within that unlucky century. 

Many of the names still to be met with in the sister 
isles of Lolland and Falster will sound strange to those 
accustomed to the Danish tongue — ^Eramnitze, Tillitze, 
Corselitze ; these are of Wendish origin, Wendish names 
brought oyer by the settlers from tiie heathen isle of 
Bugen. No sooner did the Christian faith get hold 
among the people than down came the Wends upon the 
islanders ; they burned, they pillaged and laid wasted- 
just as the Northmen themselves did on our EngUsh 
coasts — ^till Prince Prislav sat down comfortably in 
Lolland, with his Wendish followers and his royal bride, 
and ended his existence. Later her towns were burnt 
by Marsk Stig, and his pirate-band came in for a good 
share of the black pest (Digerdoden). Lolland was given 
in dower, pawned, and taken out again. In certain 
years there was great plenty — all provisions wondrous 
cheap ; but, as those years followed fast on some great 
calamity, it may be safely supposed that butter, corn, 
and fish were cheap, simply because there was nobody 
to eat them. 

The kings appear to have been most exacting, and 
their lords spiritual, the bishops of Odense, more irri- 
tating still. Such laws against the chase ! No peasant 
allowed to keep more than one dog, or to slay even a 
fox detected in the robbing of his hen-roost Still, 
some of the ordinances were of good effect, par- 
ticularly as regards the fertilisation of the land: by 
one of these, in the year 1446, every peasant as well 
as every child in Lolland is forced to plant thirty 
hop-plants, six grafted pear and apple trees, before the 



294 LOLLAND. Chap. L. 

Yolborg^Day, T^hich answers to our St John's, under a 
penalty of three silver marks. This command may 
appear somewhat arbitrary, but it was issued after a year 
of excessive cold, during which the hop-gardens and 
orchards of the island had greatly suffered. But tt> 
make up for these annoyances, in the year 1399 tlie 
waters of the Baltic froze so hard the idanders skated 
over to Lubec on the solid ice. 

To the fearful pest of 1565 upwaids of 13,000 men 
fell victims : among them were numbered twenty-ei^ 
persons, all men of singular learning — so say the chith 
niders at least — though 1 doubt if the loss was great 
These early reformed priests were only Lutheran by 
courtesy ; they tbok so unkindly to the *' starched raff** 
their diocesans of Odense found it necessary to impose 
a heavy fine on those who still persisted in the wearing 
of Catholic vestments; and as for their wireSy ihsej 
dizened themselves out so in gold, velvet, and damwd? 
stuffs, that the bishops, losing all patience, issued sodi 
sumptuary laws on the subject of their dress as aoon 
settled the business. 

I have been dipping to-day into an old book written 
upon the islands of Lolland and Falster in the earlier 
part of the last century — one of those works, like onr 
own county-histories, useful as books of reference, full 
of dry statistics, mingled with queer anecdotes, genealo- 
gies, and what not. Among other matters is a short 
notice of the life of each Lutheran parish-priest from 
the Beformation downwards. The memoirs of these 
simple pastors of the reformed faith are interesting^ 
though many of the anecdotes related are absuid, ami 
have a tendency to turn the clergy into ridicule. No 
one could cite tham as shining lights of the Chuxdb, 



::;hap. l. Lutheran clekgt. 295 

Car from it. Had they met with a little penecation, 
as did the Nonconformists in the days of our Stuart 
kings, their energies might have been called forth; 
but in Denmark the Church of the reformed faith 
-waBy from the first. Catholic, i.e. muversal. King 
Frederic 11. would allow of no dissent The first who 
differed from the tenets of Martin Luther, or propounded 
new doctrines, ''Away with him I" was the cry; and 
w^hile, in less than a century from the establishment of 
the Beformation, we find the Anabaptists skipping 
about the streets of Holland in propriis naturdibus, 
and, a little later, the Puritans of England cutting 
off their king's head, the Church of Denmark has re- 
mained — stagnant it may have been, but still united. 
Liittle has been done on the part of the Lutheran Church 
to excite inquiry. ^ Be content with what you know, and 
don't meddle with matters you cannot understand," is 
their maxim. But for the most part they appear to 
have been good, excellent men, kind to their parishioners, 
charitable, giving liberally out of their modest incomes 
to those in want and sickness, and in the earlier days 
to have held a higher and more respectable position in 
society than did our own '^parsons," as described in the 
< History' of Lord Macaulay. 

From the amusing accounts I haye run my eyes over, 
I could almost imagine Sir Walter Scott had taken as 
a model for his Dominie Sampson some bookworm of 
the Danish Church. Absence of mind and eccentricity 
appear to have been the special failings of these worthy 
men. One learned divine always conversed with his 
horse in the Latin tongue, which gave him a bad repu- 
tation, for his parishioners looked upon it as ^necro- 
majicy." When out riding he had all the conversation 



296 JKASKOV. Chap.L 

to himself, as yon may imagine, but that was what he 
liked. He tried it with the pigs first, but they answ^^d 
with a grunt, which disturbed the thread of his coo- 
versation. 

In our own country we are uniyersally of opinioii 
that an ex-pedagogue is ill-adapted to form a good 
parish-priest, more especially when he enters upon hk 
duties late in life. Of a certain Sir Edward it is here 
recorded that, on his retirement from scholastic duties^ 
he not only flogged his men-servants when caughl 
out in any dereliction of duty, but his maids into the 
bargain. He lived for the rod, and by the rod ; and if 
he swore by anybody — ^which it is to be hoped he did 
not — ^it must have been by King Solomon. ^Mien the 
bishop of the diocese on his pastoral round lodged at his 
house, he determined to teach his diocesan humility, so 
he served him kaU and cabbage, while he treated his 
servants to venison steaks and wine. 



NASKpV. 

An hour and a half s drive brings us to the dtj of 
Naskov. We alight at the hotel "Why, we ex- 
pected you by the steamer last week,'* said the land- 
lady ; " had all your rooms prepared and dinner ready." 
Some busybody had chosen to announce us. 

Naskov boasts a fine church, lately well restored; a 
very fieet of vessels hang suspended amongst the 
coronas. When Frederic IV. visited the town, and his 
eyes first lighted on its church-tower, tall and slender, 
capped with its stunted mail- work of slate, he exclaimed, 
" Well 1 never before have I seen a stripling with such a 
low-crowhed hat'* Nothing very clever ; but the loyal 



Chap. L. SHELL OF THE SWEDES. 297 

population of LoUand have handed it down from father 
to son ; they repeat it still, as they will indeed do for 
many generations to come, and look on it as first-rate. 
To the right of the altar, mounted on the capital of a 
disused column, stands a huge shell, burst in twain, 
which came tumbling through the roof of the building 
in the 17th century, during the celebration of a christen- 
ing.* Just above the spot where it now lies, the hole in 
the roof has been plastered up with yellow mortar, to 
mark the place where the destructive missile found its 
entry. 

Before the restoration of the church took place the 
mummies of the vaults below were the glory and 
gain of the verger, now closed to the public for ever. 
It was a regular Madame Tussaud, a very chamber 
of horrors. There was Earen Holm, another young 
lady who danced herself to death, with a smile still 
on her countenance ; the man who died of the black 
pest, and whose body was tarred over from top to toe» 
to prevent infection, all black in consequence; true, 
not to life but death. 

If the christening party in Naskov church escaped 
scatheless from the bursting of the shell, such was 
not the case with the inhabitants when, at a later 
period, the city was forced to capitulate, for the terms 
imposed by the victors were so hard that many years 
elapsed before the town again recovered its prosperity. 
Some five years later upwards of 160 houses stood 
nnoccupied. The Swedish king himself appears to have 
been the most economical guest of the party; the 
expenses of his board and lodging amounted only to 

• 1657. 



298 NASKOV. CsakL 

800 ihalers for the space of some days. As for Hk. 
Admiral Wrangel, she squeezed out of the inhabitantB 
the sum of three thousand specie for her own '* mems 
plaisirs." * 

Among the few men of note to whom the city^of 
Nashov has given birth ranks high a certain diviBe, 
George Ursins by name. He is said to have spc&en 
fluently nine separate languages^ and composed yerses 
in no less than eighteen. So charmed with his ertiditkm 
was the royal Prince-Consort of Queen Anne that^he 
desired to appoint him as his *' Confessionarias," and 
offered him the sum of 1500^. English annually, as 
keeper of his conscience. 

Learned Mr. Ursins however declined He prefened 
his residence in the island of LoUand and the society 
of his books. Maybe he had qualms of conscience as 
regards accepting so large a stipend for the care of am 
empty head. Some satisfEu^tion there may be in diied- 
ing the conscience of one endowed with natural talenti^ 
and turning those gifts of nature in the right way to the 
best advantage, or in the reclaiming &om such error one 
who has gone astray ; but the direction of an addlepate^ 
harmless and unimpressionable, must be a sad and 
tedious occupation even to the most patient of mankind. 

In 1266 the little city of Naskov, too, gave birtJi to 
our old acquaintance Erik Glipping, the Winker, as 
he was called, though those who love not his memory 
declare his sobriquet to signify '' Clipper," derived horn 
a bad habit, in which he was too apt to indulge, of 
clipping — ^sweating, we modern vulgarians call it — ^the 

* General Wrangel, like the rest of the world, eat to Wuchter dmiii^ 
the Oongreas which preceded the peace. His portrait is engzaTed br 
Haelwech. 



Chap. L. JUELUNGE. 299 

Lawfdl coinnge of the realm.* Forest lands exist — a 
gift to the city from his mother Margaret of Pomerania ; 
BpTaenghest, as she was called. She broke the wind of 
all the horses she mounted by her violent riding. 

liolland is as flat as a pancake. We leave Naskov, 
and drive through roads bordered on either side by 
fields — square fields. When they are oblong, oh I what 
a blessing I quite a feature in the appearance of the 
cbuntry. Then eadi field is surrounded, not by a 
hedge, but hurdles and a row of pollards, willows or 
poplars. * 

JUELLINGE. 

Kot &r from Naskov we arrive at Juellinge, a 
chateau of Count Friis ; most imposing it looks, too, 
from a distance in its ancient Gothic ; but on arriving 
you discover the Gothic is most suburban in its cha- 
racter. Its gardens have still a faint perfume of old 
Popish days. We visited the chapel, restored by Good 
Qaeen Sophia, whose "hope was in Otod. alone," — 
an admirable motto, so applicable to the days in 
which she lived, when the tenets of the past were 
ti{»rooted and the future was dimly discerned. She 
allowed herself to be seduced by fanatics of neither 



* ** Hyt KHpping Fi '* was the cry (when he wu onl of hearing) of 
{he people. In this, howeTer, ho was not worse than his sncccsBors, 
for Frederic II., of pions memory, catised the money to be clipped 
until the thaler valued scarcely more than three marcs; the people 
refused to take them, so he iasaed an ordinance, read in Kestved on 
Ascension Day 1564,—" That those who refused to take them should 
at onoe lose their heads without mercy ;" and, as about this time the 
mint-master and all his men had died of the plague, his subjects were 
compeUed to put up with what they could get ; and, writes King 
Frederic to his minister Gyldenstieme, '* the shops are put to great 
iaooaTemfince by the want of onali chAnge.** 



300 JUELLIKGE. t^taiP.L. 

side, but went her own ways steadily, nnflinchingty, 
mixing herself up with the rabidities of neither paity. 
Many old carvings still remain. Hanging in the churdi 
you will see a picture, representing a man in a clergy- 
man's dress, together with his wife, one living chfld, 
and eight dead infants in their swaddling dothes, coih 
ceming which the old woman who keeps the keys will 
relate a story. This man was curate of Helsted, and 
once refused to bury the corpse of an unbaptised infant 
The mother prayed him earnestly, but he refused, 
using harsh words, " I will not cast earth upon puppies."" 
Then the woman cursed him, and prayed his wife might 
never bear him a living child. The curse was fdlfilled; 
eight dead children were bom one after another, and it 
was not until he was induced to bury an unchiisteDed 
child that the boy you see in the epitaphium was bom 
alive. 

The chapel of the Bud fSeunily is worth a glance. 
Fine old sepulchral slabs of the 16th century. Whether 
they be descendants of the giant of Rudk}0ping, 
history relates not, but they were stalwart kiiights, 
men of thew and sinew, in their days, connected with 
all the best blood of Denmark — ^Fleming, Byng, and 
H0g, among the rest — ^as you may see by the border of 
escutcheons which surround their eflSgies. Of this 
family was Sir Otto Bud, a gallant warrior in his day, 
and much beloved of his sovereign the good King John, 
for he was a boon companion, and they loved to joke 
together. One day,' as the king was poring over hs 
favourite book, the 'History of King Arthur and his 
Bound Table,' he turned to Sir Otto, and exclaimed, 
"Where now, in the present day, could I find such 
knights as Gavin, Sir Ivan, and the rest of them?*' 



Chap. L. ENUTHENBORG. 801 

** Nothing more easily, liege King,** replied the knight, 
**do you only, by your yirtue and chastity, establish 
sach a court as that of King Arthur, and the knights 
^srill be found fast enough," The King collapsed, for at 
that time there was much scandal about his misbehaviour. 
** Indeed," adds the chronicler, " when Queen Christina 
mras imprisoned in Sweden, King John appears to have 
forgotten he had oyer been a married man." 

KNUTHENBORG. 

We now make for Knuthenborg, Grefsk^b of Count 
Knuth, situated on the sea-shore, embowered in park 
and forest Laaland is flat, fertile, and ugly ; but 
plant a chateau on the sea-side, surround it with forests 
of beech, with garden and park and fine timber-trees, 
it at once becomes a paradise. Such is Knuthenborg, 
or, rather, will be ; at present it is in a state of tran- 
sition. An older residence, not yet pulled down, a new 
castle in course of erection, one wing finished, awaits the 
majority of its youthful possessor. It will be a magni- 
ficent place when completed in the style of Denmark's 
national architecture — for she has a style, and wisely 
preserves it. We passed a pleasant day in the society 
of our kind friends the countess and her youthful 
family. 

MARIBO. 

It was nearly pitch-dark when we arriyed at the 
town of Maribo. We caught glimpses of a lake, a new- 
built Gothic town-house, and then whirled into the 
porta cochere of the GjsBstgiver of the city. 

Maribo was given, when it bore some other name. 



802 MABIBO. CiUF.U 

to the oiJy sturviving Bon of Tove, Enud Valdemap* 
80n, as he was called, he whose step-son followed Imn 
to the war as squire and then murdered him* 

An old document, dated 1417| mentions how oa 
Michaelmas Day the Bishop was sununoned to Tor 
dingborg Slot^ and there, together with King Etxk, 
Queen Philippa, their nobles, kni^ts, &c, sealed the 
grant of Byse Gaard, in Zealand, to found a cloist^ in 
Lollemd, to be hereafter called " Maribo," in honour of 
St. Bridget and the Holy Vij^:in. King Erik it was 
who completed the cloister after the death, of his 
queen; every man, woman, and child in the countiy 
had the honour of contributing to it. Each man for 
himself and his household paid the sum of 2(L, and for 
each child eighteen years of age Id. Bachelors were 
ta^ed, old maids were taxed ; no one escaped. It wsi 
a right royal foundation ; the king got the credit of it 
and the country paid the expenses. 

Scarcely was the convent commenced when there 
appeared in the heavens every night a wondrous lumi- 
nary over the forest which Queen Margaret had herself 
purchased of Jens Grim, and paid for as a site for the 
building, which was regarded as a clear proof Jomfin 
Marie wished to take up her abode there ; so St Bridgtet 
had to give way and appear second on the list. " Beats 
Brigita vidua," St Bridget the Widow— of the Brahe 
family — ^was a noble Swedish lady, mother to four scms 
and four daughters. As soon as her husband died she 
was seized with a desire to visit Home, feeling sure 
that the foundress of Yadstena would be well received 
by the pope. When sixtynseven years of age she tra- 
velled to the Holy Land, accompanied by her daught^ 



Chap. L. THE ILL-BEHAYED NUNS. 808 

the lady Earen.* She died on her retom to Borne, in 
1373, and was canonized by Urban YL some years 
later, when her bones were brought oyer to Yadstena 
with great rejoicings. The reyelations of St. Bridget 
in former days held a high reputation in the Church of 
Borne, particularly those regarding the seven Aiture 
kingst of Denmark and Sweden, the seventh of whom 
is supposed to allude to Christian ILf 

At the Beformation the nuns of Maribo, though let 
down easily, conducted themselves so badly that Bishop 
Jespersen, Confessor Begius, went down expressly to 
investigate the matter. 

They were accused of letting into their house drunken 
tradesmen as well as noblemen, of tearing each other's 
caps and fighting; not contenting themselves with 
swearing by ten thousand, they swore by ten thousand 
dozen devils, osing awful bad language ; they beat each 
other, drank spirits, and got so intoxicated they could 
not stand on their I^ ; held to the Catholic belief, had 
** wicked books " — i. e. Papistic — and prayed to aU the 
saints in the calendar. The bishop, in despair, issued 
new regulations, but to no effect ; the nuns continued 
just as bad as ever. Fresh rules, in 1596, were put in 



♦ Later St. Catherine. 

t The first appears as a " crowned ass," which, to say the least, 
was not civil ; another as a trembling sheep ; a third as a slaughtered 
lamb ; a fourth as a rayening wolf ; a fifth as a high-flying eagle, &c. 

{ He shaU stir up the whole world and the sea, and znake sorrowful 
the simple. It is he shall draw the blood of the innocent, but he shall 
leave the country, and that shaU happen as is said, that he shall sow 
pleasnre and reap sorrow and affliction. Fools shall reign and old and 
wise shall not be brought forward. Honour and right shall be laid 
aside until he comes who shall appease my anger, and he shaU not 
save his soul from what is right 



304 HARIBO. Chap.L. 

force, with a little better success, and then later the 
convent was dissolved. 

In this deserted church, under a plain stone bearing 
an inscription and now railed round, sleep in peace the 
remains of Eleanor Ulfeli Twenty-three years of im- 
prisonment did she undergo in that fearful Blue Tower 
to gratify {he woman's vengeance of the Hauovenan 
Queen Sophia Amelia, her sister-in-law. 

The story of her grie& tells ill in English histoiy for 
the reputation of our " merry monarch " Charles IL 
Eleanor had proceeded to London to procure the pay- 
ment of 24,000 rix-doUars Corfitz Ulfeld lent in those 
days of splendour to the exiled heir of the house of 
Stuart when in Holland. Charles had at first denied 
the debt, and there exists a correspondence between the 
Kings of England and Denmark on the subject, which 
letters were forwarded by the latter to the SwediA 
Queen Christina, in whose service Ulfeld entered. When 
Christina read the papers presented to her by Baioa 
Juel, the Danish envoy, she replied, with a fiieedcxB 
of speech worthy of our Queen Elizabeth, " Ulfeld is 
an honourable man. He says he paid to the King oi 
England 24,000 dollars, and I believe it to be true ; and 
if the King of England denies the debt, so has he lied. 
Yes, even if twelve such kings as Charles 11. had de- 
clared it untrue, so dare I say they have all Ued, and I 
should still believe Ulfeld ;'' and she remained firm in 
her belief of his honour, which was later confirmed by 
the receipt for the money, signed by the Scotch Greneral 
the Duke of Montrose. King Charles then declarea ^* it 
had quite escaped his memory," — but he never paid; 
for on Eleanor's arrival in London, seduced by the 



Chap. L. CAPTrVTTY OF ELEJLNOR ULFEL0. 306 

bribe of a large sum of money from the Ifeuiidi queen, 
Bhe was kidnapped by order (^ King Charles, placed on 
board a Danish yessel, and brought over to Copenhagen. 

From the moment of King Christian's death Eleanor's 
star began to fade : her privileges were taken away from 
her ; she was no longer allowed to drive into the palace 
yard or dine at the royal table ; in 1657 her title of 
Countess was taken away. When she arrived at Copen- 
hagen. Queen Sophia Amelia herself, with the aid 
of the maid, undressed her, and, having deprived her 
of all her pearls and jewels, caused her to be clad in 
the coarsest clothing. Eleanor and her maid were 
brought to trial ; a phial of poison alone was found con- 
cealed in her hair, which she had purchased at Dover to 
use in case of " necessity." 

In the Blue Tower she remained, amusing herself 
with modelling beakers in day with a piece of bone, 
for she was allowed no knife, and working other 
'* artful things." Eleanor was the most accomplished of 
Christian's daughters : she spoke German, French, Italian, 
Latin, and Spanish; played (m harp and flute; was 
a good artist, had a great turn for poetry, and, says 
a writer of the day, ^' could sing one Psalm and com- 
pose another, and know what was passing in the room 
at the same time." Most of her poems are addressed 
to her dog, named "Cavalier," a poor mangy beast, 
who had been bitten by a ferret, presented to her by 
the queen, as a " marked insult," when in prison. She 
was allowed no window to her room, merely a hole in 
tbe roof, and no pipe to her stove. One day King 
Christian Y., inquiring what she was doing, was told 
*' making beakers ;" so he asked to see one. On exa- 
piinjng it — a sort of tankard, standing on three balls, 

VOL. II. X 



306 MABIBO. Gkup.L. 

with a coyer — ^the king discovered some writing nndar- 
neath ; but release her he dared not during his mothor's 
lifetime. 

His Queen Charlotte Amelia pitied Eleanor's unhappy 
f ate, and in return for a purse embroidered with beads 
dared to brave her mother-in-law^s wrath, and ord^ed 
her a new window and a pipe to her stove. When Qoeea 
Sophia Amelia died Eleanor was released by order of 
the king, who gave her a pension of 1500 thalen 
yearly. She went> on leaving the prison, to h^ grand- 
daughter Miss Lindenov's house on the canal, by the 
Holmskirke, but only remained there three days, for 
all the town came out to see her; later, she retired 
to Maribo, where she resided till her death, passing the 
greater part of her time in embroidering altar-dodiB 
for the church, with verses expressive of her giatitode 
to her nephew the king and his family. 

Eleanor had had her husband's blood transfused into 
her veins. This gave her the power^of feeling what hap- 
pened to him ; when he died in 161^ she informed the 
king long before news of the event had reached hinL 
Eleanor died in her seventy-first year. Her head re- 
poses upon a cushion stuffed with her own gray hair- 
hair fallen off and carefully preserved during her long 
and wearisome incarceration. 

Few convent churches are externally worth lookiiig 
at, but here the interior vaulting is exquisite. The 
image of St Bridget, too, has lately turned up after a 
retirement of three centuries ; but to make up for her 
presence a youthful saint or bishop does duty as Martm 
Luther. Among the abbesses and bui^hers whose 
sepulchral slabs line the aisles, resting against the wall 
stands erect a stone of great beauty, date 1565. cm 



Cei^L. ENGESTOFTE. 807 

which the Trinity is represented life-size. In Denmark 
alone the custom of portraying the Father Eternal in 
sculpture and painting suryived the introduction of 
the Beformed Faith. Another instance occurs on the 
exterior of the church of Eckemfiorde. 

I hare elsewhere told you how the representation of 
the house of Ulfeld is now centred in the Austrian 
Counts of Walstein. When in Holland, Corfitz invited 
the representative of the States— Hogans Mogans — ^to 
the baptism of his new-bom son, and later, a high 
compliment, to name the child. On the day of the 
christening the generous burghers arrived laden with 
cups and covered basias of pure gold, enamelled in blue 
and enriched with a ^'pav^" of cameos and incised 
gems — a triumph of goldsmith's work : you may still 
see them in the museum at Copenhagen. And they 
called the child " Leo Belgicus,*' to the amazement and 
consternation of poor Eleanor. 

ENGESTOFTE. 

We start for Saxk]0bing, halting on our way at 
Engestofte, the seat of M. de Wichfeld, where we pass 
some few hours. The house is not large, but the situa- 
tion lovely: embowered in wood on the lake's side— 
such glorious limes too— now in full flower and perfume. 
Near the house stands a small chapel, admirably restored, 
carved altarpiece, repainted and regilded. 

We crossed the lake in a punt to the small island 
where once stood the very castle given by King 
YaldemAr to his son by Tove. The waters of the 
lake are now low and half-dried up; and lately 
amongst the weeds have been discovered numerous 
antiquities .of the Stone Age — hammers, chisek, 

X 2 



808 .HABDENBERG. CtaiP.L. 

knives — ^many imfiniBhed, with their chippings — showing 
there must have been a manufactory, and either that 
the lake was once dry land, or that the ancient Scan- 
dinavians made ducks and drakes of these weapons a&d 
household implements, throwing them into the waltt. 
Small boys, whose eyes are sharp and near the gTound, 
came off triumphant with an unpolished chisel and a 
flint knife, to say nothing of chippings innumerable. 

An agriculturist would rejoice in the farm-buildings d 
Engestofte lately constructed — so well built, so artistie; 
more spacious than required for an English establidh 
ment, where cows are not counted by hundreds, and 
housed, as well as sheep, during the winter season. Ii 
the cow-stable the name of each beast hangs over h^ 
stall — Jomfru Faust, Trina Smith. Twelve yoQB§ 
heifers were named after the planets, but Greoaginia 
Sidus, Jupiter, and Saturn were words the ^LoUaad 
milkmaid could never accustom her tongue ta 

We take leave, pass through the town of Sax1r|0bing, 
and on to Hardenberg, the seat of the counts of that 
name — " Hardenberg-Eeventlow," and a great deal 
morOfc 

HARDENBERG. 

To Jutland and Funen we must give the palm fcs* 
their chateaux of ancient date, their long, trim allees, 
their hedges, and gardens of by-gone centuries: but 
to flat, fertile LoUand the prize for her &ir plaisaunoea. 
Nothing can be more beautiful than this garden, a very 
wilderness of summer flowers, losing itself in the park- 
like field, backed by rich woods in the distance. Look, 
too, at the castle — what a fine old moated building ! — 
what a pity they have restored it " white," instead of 



-Chap. h. THE BBICKED-TJP LADT. 8M 

its early red brick! But it stands grand and imposing, 
with its three capped towers — mark, there are only 
three, for thereby hangs a legend. 

It was long long ago— not in the time of the Bevent- 
lowB — ^though, had its possessor, the brother of the fair 
Sophia, treated her in the same way, she would only 
haye met with her deserts — nor yet in that of the Bosen- 
krantz ; all possessors of the place declare it was before 
their time — that the daughter of some noble owner of 
the domain loved a boy of low degree. Months ran 
on — ^it is an old tale, and one oft told — she bore a child, 
and was doomed by her enraged relatives to undergo the 
punishment allotted to her crime— to be immured, hke 
the nuns of old, in a small chamber of the tower, and 
there, with the offspring of her love, to pine and die by 
a cruel death — starvation* 

Years rolled by ; the story was well-nigh fprgotten, 
when one nighty during a fearful storm, the lightning 
struck the fatal tower, rending it in twain ; ^d there 
against the wall was discovered the skeleton of the luck- 
less damsel, her mummy baby pressed against her breast 
The destruction of this tower was looked upon as a 
judgment of Providence, an expression of its indignation 
against the authors of this foul deed. None have dared 
to rebuild it The crumbling ruins were removed, and 
the foundations alone attest that it had once existed. 

The interior of the castle is fitted up with a luxury 
almost unknown in Denmark. As we descended by the 
spiral staircase of the tower, which leads to the garden, 
its narrow window, now lighted with purple glass, cast 
a cool pleasant light on the smaD statuettes of Florence 
alabaster which are ranged on brackets down the open 



810 NYSTED. Chap.L 

lima9on of the staircase. Matters have changed for Ae 
better since the sad tragedy occurred in the gister-toww. 
Talk of good old times — ^in books if yon will : bntletm 
thank our stars we didn't live in them ! 

It was dark when we aniyed at the little sea-side 
town of Nysted. " Maribo and Saxk]0bing are pleaaaiit 
places," says the proyerb, " but Nysted soipasses tiioa 
both." We shall see to-morrow. 

NYSTED. 

Nysted resembles other small Danish towns. WHeft 
you gain the sea-side, a long double ayenue of tiees 
conducts yon to the ancient ch&teau of Aalhobn, a 
huge red brick pile of buildings, with massiye sqnaze 
towers, dating from Queen Margaret's days, thanks to 
Marsk Stig and Skipper Clemens, a rarissima stii 
in Denmark. Here resided her brother — ^poor hiB- 
begotten little Christopher — Duke of Lolland, wlw» 
effigy in alabaster we haye seen in Boeskilde cathe- 
dral, all broken to pieces, the Danish Goyemmenl 
too poor or too stingy to afford the cement necasai; 
for sticking him together. Some authors declare tint 
he was poisoned at Queen Margaret's wedding, bat 
there is no truth in the story : in those uncomfortable 
days no one was allowed to die peaceably without sus- 
picion. 

The castle — " oyer-rumplet " (taken by surprise) in 
1534 — ^is now the property of the Count of Baben, bat 
is seldom inhabited: the gardens, kept in the tne 
Lolland style, are well worthy of a yisit 

Such black coal-scuttle bonnets as the women wear 
here ! of carton, like the Fionese ; not japanned, tea- 



Chap. I. STBANDBTE. 811 

tray fashion — sober black, ugly enough to frighten you. 
Now we make for Strandby e, the ferry-station to Falster, 
a five minutes' passage. Beally LoUand and Falster 
so nearly join, it seems quite ridiculous their being 
separated. 



312 .NTKJ0Bma. fCuF.U. 



CHAPTEB LL 



Island of Falster — Qaeen Sophia and the panon*s ^rife — How die 
rales her household — The lady who could not die — Moleswortbi 
account of swan-shooting — Familiar Efpirits and other supersiitiGoi 
of the island — Island of M0en — The strong-minded Dorothea— 
The bathing-place of Liselund — The chalk klints and beaaty of the 
scenery — The Klint King — Bacchanalian hairest-home. 



ISLAiro OP FALSTER. 

NYKJ0BING. 

Aiiffust 29. — ^We land on the small pier of Nykj0faing:, 
stop to breakfast, and then driye through the islaad (m 
our way to M0en. 

There is nothing to see in Falster — ^no herregaank 
More exdusive than Lolland, the island, until scnne 
years since, was a royal possession, the usual jointure 
and residence of queens. ^ 

In the small town of Nykj0bing dwelt good Queen 
Sophia, the widowed motiier of Christian lY., glad to 
retire from the court of her son, whose morals iQ 
accorded with the principles of his right-thinkiDg 
mother. Here too she died. 

In the church hangs her pedigree — ^pedigree of the 
house of Mecklenburg, with portraits of each member 
from the earliest days. 

When Queen Sophia ruled over the island she did 
much good, encouraging industry, and employing in 
her manufactures many hundred people. There still 
stands an oak between Yaalse and Nykj0bing which 



OSAP. LL QUEEK SOPHU.AKD THE FAESOK'S WIFE. 313 

goes by the name of ** Praeste Kongen, firom a wager 
laid by the parson's wife with the queen that she would 
spin a thread ont of a pound of flax so fine it should 
reach &om her parsonage to the palace gate. The lady 
proceeded on her way tiU her flax was expended at the 
house which bears her name. Qneen Sophia was a 
good menag^rcy and kept her maids as well as her 
men in order, not sparing the whip when they deserved 
eoixection: 

" linde Herre skal have Eege sTenne,** 

** A maltre de tilleul, domestiqae de cbtoe," 

was her motto. She died the richest qneen in Europe ; 
and though Christian lY. honoured and lored his 
mother, yet to judge from his correspondence he was 
qnite atiye to the advantages to be derived from his 
inheritance. 

Scarcely is she on her death-bed when the kiug 
writes word "they must take care to look after her 
keys.'** He writes to his sister Augusta to send 
down the jeweller to value the queen's effects ; orders 
monming for the children, who are to travel to Vord- 
ingborg to receive the " widowed queen's coffin :" they 
are to wait for the corpse and get something to eat at 



* Many of good Queen Sophia's people lie buried in the ohurch of Kyk- 
j0l>ing. Such a " maitresse feznme " as was Queen Sophia 1 Such rules 
and regulations, such modesty and virtue among her maids ! such pro- 
priety among her men 1 Mrs. 011egaard Penz, her noble housekeeper — ^her 
place not then, as now, a sineoure — at the end of eleven years' service 
died, worn out by her troubles and domestic cares, and even now, after 
tbe lapse of two centuries and more, she can't rest quiet in her g^ve. 
8he fidgets and ftisses about the chftteau of Fredskov, rattles the keys, 
opens and shuts the drawers, rings the beUs, winds up the clocks, 
and dusts, dusts away, and will dust — so folks say — ^in sscula s»cu- 
lorom, 80 disgusted is die at the degeneracy of all Danish housemaids. 



314 N YKJ0BIK6. Gkaf. LL 

the ferrj-honse ; the cook-boy can accompany them and 
take what is necessary. Christian appears to have been 
in good humour with his succession, for he presented 
his mother's maid who cooked his soup with ten rose 
nobles. 

One letter, dated the latter end of the year 1631, 
is as foUows : — ^* Apothecary Peter, fill your satchel fiiH 
of rotulen, musk, and amber, and other spices, as good 
as you can get them, and bring it here at oncei — 
Frederiksborg." 

What could this be for? Nothing less than the 
necessary medicaments for the embalmment of Qoeen 
Sophia. 

You will find many old acquaintances in these por> 
traits ; among them the queen of Christian L, here un- 
gagged ; old Joachim of Brandenburg, holding a drawn 
scimitar in hand, looking like some vindictiye Blue 
beard, right in the face of poor Protestant Elizab^ 
She was quite right to run away ; by his very look, he'd 
haye bricked her up. The palace of Queen Sophia has 
disappeared ; gone most likely to build up somethiog 
else. If a royal Danish brick could only speak, what 
tales it could tell of the sights it has witnessed from the 
days of Thyre Danebod downwards, picked out from 
the Daneyirke for the erection of some chateau fott, 
and so handed down to the present century I 

We leave to the left the village of Torkildstnip, 
named after the heathen Thorkild — the first man, say 
the Danes, who pretended the earth turned round. 

We passed in the distance a church-spire, concemiiig 
which there runs a tale : — Many years ago dwelt in the 
island of Falster a rich and noble dowager, who had 
neither son nor daughter to inherit her golden treasurea 



Chaf. U. the LADT. who COULD NOT DIE. 81 5 

She lesolyed to btiild a veiy great and splendid chnicL 
When the building was finished she ordered the altar 
candles to be lighted; then proceeding in great state 
through the aisle to the high altar, she fell down upon 
her knees and prayed God, as a reward for her pious gift, 
to let her liye as long as her church was standing. Her 
foolish prayer was granted. Her kinsmen and servants 
died, but she outUved them alL At length she had 
neither contemporary friends nor relations to speak to ; 
she saw all their children become old and die, and then 
again their children after them sink under the weight 
of years, — still she liyed on. By degrees she lost the 
use of abnost all her senses, and at last she only re- 
covered her power of speech once a year — each Christ- 
mas-eve, for one single hour. She begged one Christinas 
to be laid in an oaken coffin and placed in the church, 
to try if she could not die there. They did as she 
demanded, and her coffin was placed in the church, but 
she has not been allowed to die to this day. Every 
year at the appointed hour the parson comes to her, and 
lifts up the heavy lid of the coffin. She slowly raises her- 
self till she sits erect in the coffin, when she asks, ** Is 
my church still standing?' '* Yes,'* answers the parson : 
** Would to God," she exclaims, ** that my church were 
bumt> for then would my wail end ! " Sighing, she once 
more sinks back upon her hard pillow, the parson shuts 
the coffin, and does not return until the Christmas 
following. 

We drive to Corselitze, a smaU country house, half- 
farm, and then enter a lovely forest by the blue water's 
fidde. Midway between that small homestead and the 
ferry of Gr0nsund we pass the little inn of S0ly8t> a 
favourite place of Sunday resort to the badauds of 



316 KYKJ0BINO. Ghav.I1 

Nykj0bing. It stands on the wate^dde, and yon nugkt 
easily while away a week among the snrroimding 
forest and its coasts. Herds of deer, wild oheTreQik 
in nnmber, and fSftwns of all sizes, as well as faarei» 
cross our patL Cheyrenil and roe-deer are not the oiilf 
game which abound in this island. In the year 1692 
Christian Y., together with his qneen and many iJimr 
trious perspnageSy on their jonmey from M0ai to 
Nykj0bing, enjoyed a goodly sport, slanghtering in one 
day four hundred and twenty wild swans by tlie yfUjige 
of Gjedsen. Battues of wild swans were a fayooiite 
diversion of the last century, for Mdesworth writes, 
*^ These wild swans haunt a small island, about one mile 
distant from Copenhagen, and breed there. About this 
time of year the young ones are near as big as the 
old, before the feathers are grown long enough for them 
to fly. The king, queen, and the court ladies, with 
other nobles, are invited to take part in this sport 
Every person of condition has a pinnace allotted to 
him, and when they come near the haunt surround tbe 
place, and a great multitude of swans — sometimeB i 
thousand — are killed. The flesh is worthless, but the 
feathers and down are preserved." 

Superstition thrives in Falster as elsewhere. The 
farmers have nisses, but cottagers are compelled to 
put up with " familiar spirits " — a preposterous fairy 
called Dragedukke, who not only supplies them widi 
all manner of good things, but also gives them the 
power of transferring the good luck of others to them- 
selves. A woman of Eragehave was possessed of a 
Dragedukke. In vain her neighbours tried to chum; 
she could take away all the butter from them, while she 
had plenty herself even in the worst weather : money, too. 



CuAf. U. .lf0£N. 317 

her husband had always at his command. A neighbour 
asked him for the loan of a hundred pounds : he went to 
a cupboard and took it at once from what appeared to 
be an empty hog's bladder; but the borrower heard 
groans issuing from the bladder, as though the fairy 
within was bewailing the loss of the money. When a 
corpse leaves the door, they cast a pail of water behind 
it, that the ghost may not reappear. On Christmas- 
eye those who wish their fruit-trees to bear an 
abundant crop go into the garden at midnight, and, 
taking the sticks from the bakers' oyens, strike each 
tree thrice, exclaiming, ^^Bejoice tree, — ^rejoice, and 
be fruitful!' 

We reach the ferry, leaving to the left the small 
town of Stubbekj0bing, and in a minute are landed on 
the opposite coast of M0en« 

ISLAND OP M0EN. 

A two hours' drive brought us to Stege. The small 
hotel was full of bathers, tea-drinking and eating their 
suppers in the garden overlooking the sea. A church 
ydth lofty massive tower and quaint old gate-house, 
a rarity in Denmark. The moats exist still, and are 
nicely laid out in promenades. The castle has long 
since disappeared, granted by King Erik, after the 
death of Queen Philippa, to a certain Dorothea, a strong- 
minded young woman, quite above the prejudices of 
this world, who bore inscribed upon her signet-ring the 
words "Dorothea, King Erik's concubine." We drove 
on, passed by two or three villages, having for ever a 
gray ridge of mountains before us — elsewhere you would 
have called them hillocks — ^and then came to a stone 
which by daylight indicates the way " To Lisekmd ; " 



318 HORN. CSAS.a 

here we torn bff, after a tune come to a gaaid, and 
drive in. It is nearly twelve o'clock, all the woiid 
asleep, even the watch-dog. We halloo, bawl, crack 
the whips, kick, for twenty minntes withoat success ; at 
last a sleepy head looks ont from the stable-windofw, 
later the farmer himself appears, yawning his very jain 
asunder. 

September 1st, — ^We are now quietly settled, and pes^ 
haps you may like to know what liselund really i& 

Liselund is a country place, the property of M. de 
Bosenkrantz ; not a herregaard ; a square courts three 
sides of which are occupied by stalls, granaries, and 
farm-buildings, the remaining side forms the abode of 
the family. Our apartments consist of a laz^ salooD 
opening into the garden, with bed-rooms on the same 
floor ; to take our baths we pass down aa ayenue of 
trees into a second garden, in which stands a small 
villa^house: the whole is backed by woods, and as 
pretty as gay flowers^ orchard-trees, creeper-bedecked 
summer-houses, water, swans, rock-work, boats, and 
bridges can make it. Passing through the wood, yoa 
arriye at the klint's edge, clothed with beech, juniper, 
and the prickly sloe, covered with its purple-bloomed 
fruit ; turning into a . narrow walk by the side of a 
ruined chapel, with its sanctus bell, once used as 
a bathing -house, you here gain the shore. This 
beech-dothed descent is lovely, and peeps of the 
verdure-famed Baltic most enjoyable; in the month 
of May this small Alpine region must be a carpet of 
spring flowers. Denmark is the country of spting par 
excellence. The autumnal tints are so fine, pec^e 
say, in the forests! they may be, but somehow, when 
in the autumn of life oneself, one admires more fe^ 



Cbap. U. LISELUKD. 819 

Tently the spring and yontli in others. Wbite sflver 
hairs are yenerable, and there is a beauty in real green 
old age, but nothing to extacise about in gray stubbly 
"whiskers. Autumn among the mountains is beautiful^ 
but not in a flat prairie country ; the beach is shingly 
and unpleasant to walk upon ; when once immersed, 
bowever, you will find a sandy bottom, if you only 
i¥atch the yellow lines on the water. 

To gratify your eyes, as there is no boat nigh, you 
must swim out to sea. Look before you, to the left — 
did you eyer see anything more striking, more grand, 
than that ragged, rugged white chalk cliff, Ixddly 
decoup^, jutting out into the water? The Taleren it 
is called ; the first of a long ridge of miniature white 
mountains, which rise like a succession of fortresses to 
defend the eastern coast of M0en. 

FossQs of all kinds abound on the shore — echini, 
madrepores, chamsB, oysters, and sea anemones; and 
better specimens still may be dug firom the pulverised 
chalk of the klint itself. 

From liselund there are two ways of visiting the 
Store klint ; first by the narrow walks cut out along the 
edge of the precipice itself. You pass by a small cot- 
tage in the wood — a milk-white peacock spreads his 
tail, as much as to say ^^Look at me** — and then 
straight on. But all the world are not pedestrians ; hire 
then the farmer's carriage, and drive through the beech- 
forest, now suffering from a plague of hairy caterpillars 
— ^a forest of many hundreds of acres leafless ; up the 
trunks of each devoted tree they crawl in myriads — 
gome yellow, some dark brown, of all sizes — ^Vor Herreds 
Hunds, our Lord's dogs, they are called. They covered 
the stems, they covered the branches to the very ends, 



320 M0EH. C&tf.Il. 

and, what was worse still, tiiej finifihed by ooTering » 
— ^tambling down upon our hats, heads, dotfae^ mj 
beard, and the ladies' faces. Two of the moths husg 
sticking to the trees, one of those brown leaf-liko 
species. After passing through the unleafed tosai, 
you suddenly turn into an open q>aGe cleared among 
the trees ; to the left before you rises a small diSlet 
with a rustic kitchen, a long table and benches spread 
out before it, where a. decent woman and her prettj 
dark-^yed daughter keep a sinall restaurant. We &o^ 
bark in a small boat to view the klints firom the 
sea. They rise up white against the pure blue sky, a 
range of miniature Apennines — speaks and ridges;— 
how chalk ever became so convulsed, so romantie, to 
me remains a mystery. 

'^ And the Elmt Eonge," we inquire of the old boai' 
man, "where does he live?" **He lives theie^" was 
the answer, pointing to a hole under the Queen's StooL 
He came originally from Upsala — han har flytted— 
to Stevnsklint Why he abandoned M0en no end 
can say ; but it is supposed he found it dull, and pre- 
ferred the society of the Elf £ing, with whom he is 
also confounded. 

You see the range of cliffs, dazzling in their whit^ 
ness with their trimmings of green, to full advantage 
from the wide open sea ; but to judge well of thek 
fantastic distorted forms, their sharp sugar-loafed juci^ 
you must follow the greenwood path on the hdgbts 
above. The highest eminence is that of the Queen's 
Stool, 450 feet above the level of the sea, a mile Ei^ 
lish in length to the right perhaps, and then graduaUy 
the range of coast descends in altitude, and near the 
lighthouse you again see table-ground 



Chap. U. DOLMEN. 321 

With the klints you have exhausted the sights of 
M0eii. The island is richly cultivated, and earlier in 
the year may have been more beautiful, for it undulates 
well ; but we are now in the month of September ; and, 
let it undulate for ever, there is no beauty in undulating 
stubble. 

Herregaards of antiquity there are none. M0en was 
a royal property, sold up in the last century. Not 
fSfiur from the picturesque church of Magleby (the M0en 
churches are highly picturesque and unwhitewashed) 
is a fine dolmen of seven stones, standing erect on a 
height — ^a feature in the surrounding country. When 
I showed it to a small boy — ^an unbelieving genera- 
tion is the present — and explained how it was the 
work of the ancient Scandinavians, same men who 
fashioned the knives and chisels he had picked up 
at Engelstofte, — ^he would give no credit to the truth 
of my assertion. "They move these great stones? 
nonsense! FU never believe it : well, if they did build 
it a thousand years ago, the stones were then pebbles, 
and must have grown since." And he stuck to his 
opinion, looking all the while as stubborn as a young 
bull-dog. In ancient times, says tradition, M0en was 
governed by two giants: one, Gr0n, after whom the 
Sound is christened ; the other, like the Elint Kongo, 
came from Upsala. Instead of fighting and beating 
each other's brains out, as giants mostly did, they lived 
together in amity ; and when they died, were buried 
side by side in the same stone chamber under the h0i 
snnnounted by my favourite dolmen. 

September \9t. — The harvest-home came off last ever- 
ing. A cart drove into the court laden with sheaves 
of com and peasants, male and female, shouting and 

VOL. II. y 



322 lM0EN. GBAT.LL 

smging to the full extent of th^ voioa Hoises, men, 
women, all were decorated with garlands of leaves and 
flowers, the latter bearing in their hands large bouquets 
stuck upon the ends of long sticks, most Bacchanalian, 
like a picture of Jaques Jordaen's. Then later other 
carts, decorated and begarlanded like the first, followed 
in succession; and when all had duly arrived, a sort of 
rustic Silenus, more horrid-looking than can be ima- 
gined, approaches, according to ancient custom, the 
fietrmer and his wife, and, sickle in hand, exclaims — 

" We have cut the com ; it is ripe ; it is gathered 
in. Will you now that we cut the cabbages in the 
garden ? " 

'^No, thank you,** replied the huusbond and the 
hnstru ; " we had. rather not" 

" But we will : the com is gathered in ; we will now 
cut the cabbages in the garden.'^ 

" No," answers the master, " as the com is ripened 
and is gathered into the barn, we will give you a festivaL" 

The company are now satisfied ; supper is fumijhed 
for them, and they pass an evening of innocent jollity. 
Beyond this little fete of the hanrest-home, Liselund is 
all quiet and repose. The church-bells alone sound in 
the distance ; they ring up (as the expression goes) the 
sun, and ring it down again ; and then in the midst 
you hear nine distinct strokes — one, the first, clear and 
solemn, for the Pater Noster; seven for the seven 
separate petitions of the Lord's Prayer ; and lastly yoo 
hear a loud booming ninth proclaiming Amen.* 



- * The twelve o'clock bell was first appointed in 1455, by Vope Kicbo- 
las v., who orders that the bells be rung every day at that hour, ib 
order that the people, on hearing them, may offer up a prayer tor tbe 
Christians fighting against the heathen in foreign lands. 



Chap.LII. BOBNHOLM. 323 



CHAPTER LIL 



The ialand of Bomholm ; its reputation for nlmon — A coacbman 
ftom the diggings — Bound churches of Ny and Ole — Church- 
pufiherB and hourglaaies — The TroUes of Bomhohn — Their tricks 
upon Bondevedde •— Their patriotism —How they loye butter — 
The three-legged cat — They man the cliffs to defend the Island — 
Hammershuus, the prison of Oorfitz and Eleanor Ulfeld. 



ISLAND OF BORNHOLM. 

September IStk — Our boat is named the *' Mercury,'* 
and to start at seven. CoTfhides and mouse-traps are 
our cargo — the last hang suspended to the backs of two 
itinerant vendors, bound like myself for E0nne. Then 
we have a dozen odds and ends of passengers, the 
greater part for Tstad — Germans with dirty faces, the 
inevitable gold ring on the fore-finger, and long pipes. 
I fraternise with the mousetrap-vendors, and ask them 
-where they are going? Two boys they are, making 
their "tour" as journeymen- Prom Bomholm they 
pass to Sweden; next year, they hope, to Germany, 
and so on till their three years are out Would 
they not like to settle? I inquire. "Oh, no! they 
must see the world first. Quite right too they are; 
better sell mousetraps and see the world, even under- 
going a few hardships, than be stuck down at once 
in some poky village your life's long day. 

Wonderful the luggage people of the provinces travel 
•with in Denmark. Only look at that huge chest, with 
antique lo6k and repousse ornaments ; the trunk too of 

Y 2 



324 BORNHOLM. Chap. UL 

those Zealand peasant-women in their lace caps, inth 
silver crown and flowing ribbons. It is not unlike a 
cellaret — ^painted and picked out in various coloura— 
two hearts united under a wreath, vrith initials — the 
wedding-chest ol some happy pair long since gathered 
to the dust 

The coasts of Sweden are flat and uninteresting'; 
after breakfast — ^breakfSEists are excellent on board those 
steamers — such lobsters and dried fish! — I monnt m 
time to admire the splendid old ch&teau of a Baron 
Stjermblad, flanked by two lofty spiral turrets — a 
Danish edifice built by the Danes when Skaane was 
their own; then further a building, bigger still — the 
summer residence of a Judge Sylvan; and then intD 
the little harbour of Ysted. We unload our cow-skiiis, 
peasant-women in their quaint costume the porteis. 
Swedish hussar officers in blue uniform and tumed-up 
moustaches loiter and look on. We have exchanged 
our red-cross pennon for one of yellow on a puipie 
ground, with a sort of hybrid union jack placed in ths 
comer. 

The town of Ysted, commercial in corn, is dean — at 
least it appears so after the dirty " Mercury ;" but its 
pavement outdoes the Danish in its eccentricity — rode 
and pebble, pulverised tombstone, and 3rawning paddle^ 
all coalesce in friendly neighbourhood. Then too it 
has a wide deserted look — not that " motherly appear- 
ance " of the dull island towns of its sister Denmark 
We sail out again; the moon is up. Five hoars' 
passage at least, for the boat, though seaworthy, is 
'^meget langsom;" so I retire below. Towards half- 
past eleven in bounces the stewardess — " Coming strax 
to B0nne." On mounting, a flat> fiont, dark line appears^ 



Chap. UI. R0NNE-SALMON. 325 

BO go down again and just get to sleep when the boat 
stops, and we really are safe'arriyed. We mount the 
diff through the churchyard, behind which lies the haven 
of our journey, a primitiYe but clean inn, looking through 
the trees on the cemetery, and then, beyond, the sea 
and a little flotilla of fishers' boats — all yery charming, 
only bed is preferable to moon-gazing. 

September lAth — Order breakfast when you may in 
Denmark, you have time to stroll and gain an appetite 
preyious to its arrival — no one is e^er punctual; this 
morning I had ample leisure to potter about and look 
around me before my coffee (coming strax since half- 
past seven) was served and ready. A striped low- 
housed town is B0nne, interspersed with trees, planted 
to shade the windows : the view from the churchyard, 
overiooking the harbour and its new-constructed jetty, 
is picturesque. A small martello tower stands on the 
clifis to the left, dignified by the name of ^' ArsenaL'' 
The little flotilla of fishing boats possess a harbour of 
their own, and nestle comfortably together — ^they have 
just returned laden with whiting and brilL There is 
8hip|»ng to the right, shipping in dock, ships turned up 
on end undergoing a cleaning operation, ships on the 
stocks being built — ^altogether they present -quite an 
imposing appearance. 

Bomholm enjoys a reputation for the excellence of 
its salmon, which fetches a higher price in the market 
than even that of Banders. The salmon are taken with 
hooks at twelve English miles off shore. Every week a 
vessel sails for Prussia ; there the fish is disembarked, and 
packed off as fast as express train can carry it to France, 
reappearing in the windows of Chevet and other restau- 
rants of the Parisian capital. B0nne boasts .another 



326 BORNHOLH. GiuY.IJL 

little commerce of her own, thut of pottery — a maim- 
faftsture of terracotta — stataettes, baskets, and other 
ornaments, well executed and in the best taste, sach as 
you see exposed for sale in the galanterie shcqpB of 
Copenhagen. Her wooden clocks, too, have a reputfr- 
ticHX of their own : in the last century a vessel was 
wrecked off the coast, and a small cuckoo dock saved 
among the cargo ; a hidden genius pulled it to pieces, 
studied its woriu and movements, and before many 
weeks fabricated the first dock ever known in the 
island. 

The English vice-consul has kindly engaged us a 
carriage, with a coachman speaking English, saving oa 
a world of trouble, and at twelve we start on our adven- 
tures. 

The country is flat in the neighbourhood of B0mie, 
but, like Jutland, undivided; a forest of birch and 
pines runs along the sesnside, planted wisely by the 
government some thirty years since, before which 
period, said my coachman, the road and fields adjoin- 
ing Vere ruined by the flying sands, and he pointed out 
to me a line of dunes running along the centre of a field 
at some distance from the road. " I recollect," he ccut- 
tinued, '^ when the land you see under cultivation was 
worthless — now it sells in lots for as good a price as in 
other localities.'* We passed on our way some Swedish 
peasant women in their picturesque red bodices, a 
striking contrast to the sober-dad, blue-eyed, fair-haired 
girls of Bomholm ; they come over to dispose of their 
embroideries — she-pedlars — carrying their packs across 
their shoulders. If the Swedes, however, outdo the 
natives in the brilliancy of their costumes, the women 
of the island carry off the palm of comeliness. 



Crap. LII. COACHMAN FROM THE DIGGINGS. 327 

As we drive along my guide pointfi out on the coast 
not far from the little town of Hasle two separate coal- 
mines. "Coal in Denmark!" "Oh, yes; plenty in 
Bomholm — ^very good for houses and cookery purposes, 
but not for the blacksmiths.** " Who works the mines ? '* 
"They are scarcely worked at all, the quality is not 
good enough.'* " But who ever heard of good coal at the 
top of a mine ? — ^you have always to get rid of much 
rubbish before you arrive at the fine sort." "Very 
true, sir, but we Danes are not like you English — ^we 
have no enterprise ; if a Dane does not find good coal 
at the top of his mine, he will never have energy 
to proceed. I know my own countrymen and yours 
too, sir. I was three years in Australia at the dig- 
gings.'^ " No wonder you speak English so well : and 
did you succeed?*' "Well enough, sir. My father 
was a farmer, with ten sons ; when he died, we could 
not purchase his farm, but I had just enough to take 
me to Australia. I did well, tiU the fever seized me, 
and a large portion of my earnings were expended, so 
I returned to Bomholm after an absence of three years, 
with exactly 300?. in my pocket, a large sum for this 
little place, married, settled, and am now getting on 
very comfortably." I inquired "Did you go alone ?" 
** No ; and that's the curious part of the story. A young 
fellow, a schoolfellow of mine, had long ardently desired 
to accompany me, but had no money; he was very 
low in spirits, for I was to sail in the spring, and 
it was the month of February. Towards the latter 
end of the month he was engaged tilling the land^ 
-when, on turning over a large stone which impeded 
the plough's progress, he came upon a massive arm- 
ring ; at first he believed it to be copper, but on taking 



a28 BORNHOLM. O^MT.UL 

it to the jeweller it was pronounced to be gold. The kd 
was well nigh mad for joy ; he sent it to Copenbagen, 
and at the end of the fortnight reoeived as his pay- 
ment the sum of 350 rix-doUars. Well, sir, we 
sailed together, and he is still in Australia doing 
well/and will return some day, richer and better off 
than any of the farmers of the island. It's a curious 
history — is it not, sir ? — ^his finding that gold ring ; the 
people here believe it was all the TroUes' doings, but 
you look on that as nonsense, I have no doubt>'' — and he 
shut up at once. 

We stopped at the village of Nyker, where is the 
first of the four round churches for which Bornhdm 
is celebrated. 

KYKER. 

The round churches of Nyker and Olsker* are, as 
regards the original edifices, built upon the same plan 
— a large round tower, capped **en eteignoir,^ with 
scale-like slates, evidently constructed as '' church mili- 
tants," to serve as fortresses in time of need ; that of Ole 
is pierced around with loopholes like a castle toneti 
while that of Ny appears to be incomplete. In the 
interior, which served for prayer, the roofe are round 
vaulted, supported in the centre by one circular massiTe 
column; small external turret staircases lead to the 
upper story, through the loopholes of which the 
archers and men-at-arms shot forth their arrows ; these 
churches of Bomholm have a peculiar cachet, with their 
picturesque stone belfries apart from the buildings a 
striped wood and brick upper story and slate pointed 



♦ Ker— kirke, chnrch : Ny-ker, Ok-ker, Lftn-ker, &o. 



Chap. LU. NY££R. 829 

cap, as well afi the lich-gates, of which there are seyeral 
to each cemetery. In the church of Ny, to the left of 
the pulpit hang suspended four hour-glasses^ the gift of 
Margaret, wife of Peter Bemholt, the priest, date 
sixteen hundred and something : clocks at that period 
were not in general use in these remote parts. 

The glass is rnDning, 

Time is going, 
We are tracking on* 
Jesus, dear Lord Jesus, help us," &c. 

So runs the painted doggrel. The white-haired school-* 
master informed me how he had heard from his grand-* 
Deither that Parson Bemholt preached most interminable 
sermons ; so his wife out of her own pocket caused the 
hour-glasses to be placed* The early Lutheran clergy 
became so enamoured of their own discourses, that people 
went to church when the sermon was half over, in 
consequence of which " yawning stocks " were placed 
at the church-door, and he who arrived late was placed 
therein. Folks now came early enough, but went to 
deep instead, so in 1688 " E[irke-Gubber," or " Church- 
pushers," were appointed — officers whose duty it was to 
nudge the offenders and prevent them from indulging in 
a nap, for which service they received the sum of six 
dollars annually. After a time the clergy, in despair, 
finished where they should have begun — ^they limited 
the duration of the sermon to one hour, and, after the 
eaample of Parson Bemholt's wife, ordered hour-glasses* 
to be fixed by the side of every pulpit ; but so popular 



* No sooner were the hour-glasses established than the country 
appears to have been inundated with Sanduhrmachers (hour-glass 
xnakers) from Leipsig and elsewhere. Strange these Northerns nereT 
could run al(me without foreign help ! 



330 BOBNHOLM. C&ftP. UT. 

was a oertain preacher of Copenhagen, that one Sunday, 
when the sand was run ont, the congregation exdainied 
together in a body, " Tum it — ^tum it again ! " In 
all the churches you enter hangs, surmounted by a 
skeleton mowing away for his very life, a statisticid 
table of the deaths caused in the different parishes of 
the island by the pest of 1618, when 5185 persons fell 
victims to its rage in Bomholm alone. 

OLSKER. 

I have seldom come across a more picturesque ehur(^ 
than that of Olsker, which we next visited ; it has scarcely 
any excrescence attached to its solid round tower, sup- 
ported by Cyclopean buttresses, one round-arch doorway, 
the weeest apse in the woi4d; the little cemetery, 
surrounded by stone walls, possesses four lich-gates, one 
for each point of the compass ; and the queerest of all 
queer striped belfries. Outside the cemetery walls arf 
attached iron rings, some to the wall itself, others to posts, 
the larger ones with the name of the proprietor inscribed 
above, intended for securing the fsinner's steed dnrii^ 
his attendance at divine service. Loyal Bomholm 
proclaims on a painted board, with much respect 

that in the year 1687 his (at least four lines of 

titles) Majesty Christian V. honoured the round churdi 
of Ole with a visit Leaving the church, you have a 
fine view over the Baltic, with the fortress island rf 
Christians0, and two other little 0*8. On approach- 
ing the main road we find ourselves among the blue 
rocks of Bbmholm, which rise among the fields, 
lamong the woods, everywhere, clothed with gray 
lichen. The cows are of a smaller race than those 



Chap.LII. OISEEB. S31 

of Denmark, small and black gtreaked. We passed 
by one bog, where the men were engaged cutting turf; 
huge trunks of oak are here discovered, black as 
ebonji like the Irish — ^in the moors of Jutland, oak is 
unknown. We then turn down a descent, and drive 
into the little town of AUinge. 

We had a long conversation about the TroUes, 
most important personages in this island of Bomholm. ' 
In the year 1624, about the very time Parson Bemholt 
was preaching his long-winded sermons, the clergyman 
of 8t Peter's writes a statistical account of his parish 
to Copenhagen, Among sundry matters of no account^ 
he proceeds to relate : — 

^In a h0i called Faalh0i the TroUes are said to 
reside, and there lives now a girl who has passed many 
years with them underground, and borne by them eight 
children. The girl's name is Karen." 

The favourite hero of TroUedom is a certain Bonde* 
vedde, who inhabited the parish of St. Peter's about 
the year 1700. Tradition declares him to have been 
the o£&pring of a &rmer and a mermaid. On taking 
leave of her lover, the mermaid desired him to return 
that day year to the same place, and he would find an 
in&ait, an infant who would be endowed with the gift 
of seeing and hearing what was said by the TroUes — a 
little people, invisible to the eyes of common mortals. 
So the farmer did as the mermaid bade him, and in 
one year's time repaired to the very same spot on the 
fiea*shore, where he found a male child lying in a 
cradle delicately framed of seaweeds ; not a pearl, not a 
coral did the hanfrue suspend round the neck of her 
baby ; he was a fine healthy blue-eyed child, nothing 
more. So the young farmer removed him to his own 



332 BORNHOLM. Chap.UL 

house, and he went by the name of BondeTodde. The 
boy grew stout and strong, and after his Other's death 
inherited his fismn. In course of time he married, and 
his wife gave promise of adding to the hopes of the 
family. 

Now, if there is one thing the Trolles cannot abides 
it is having a spy upon their actions, and they dwelt 
within a h0i adjoining Bondevedde's fann ; as regaidi 
privacy they might just as well have pitched their tents 
in the market-place of Aakirkeby ; he was eTerlastin^y 
watching their doings and overhearing their convenft- 
tion, so they determined among themselves to punidi 
him. One day as Bondevedde was passing by he 
observed a Trolle with the trunk of a tree in his hand, 
and heard him say to his companion, ** Cut it^ S&ef ; 
cut it as like Bondevedde's wife as two peas." 

"You're .after some mischief, my boys," says Bonde- 
vedde to himself, "but I'll be even with you yet:" 
so he kept watch and held his peace. In process of 
time his wife lay sick in childbed, and, accordii^ 
to custom, her room was crammed full of her female 
neighbours. Then came the Trolles along with the 
rest, invisible to all mortal eyes but Bondevedde's, 
bearing the image of his wife admirably carved, so 
like nature no one could mistake it Laying this oa 
the bed, they carried off the suffering woman, and passed 
her outside the window as they imagined to their com- 
panions ; but Bondevedde, who was up to their tricka^ 
waiting outside, received his wife in his arms, and laid 
her in a place of safety ; then, entering the sick room, 
seized the wooden image with the Trolles into the bar- 
gain, and stuffed them all together into the baker's oven, 
where they burnt like faggots. The Trolles kicked and 



Ckap. lil bondeyedde and the TROLLES. 383 

howled, and tried to get out ; the women on their side 
screamed, for they fancied it was their neighbour who 
was burning; but Bondeyedde took them aside, and 
Bhowed them his wife safe in bed with a fine boj, bom 
since she was mored out of window. So the fanner 
and his wife were left in peace for some time after. 
However, the TroUes recovered from the effects of their 
defeat, and one day as Bondevedde passed near the h0i 
he overheard one of them say, " Bondevedde's wife will 
brew her ale to-morrow ; let us go and steal it!" When 
the ale was brewed, Bondevedde took a kettle of boil- 
ing water, and, calling together all his farm-men, said 
to them, " Get your stoutest sticks, and wherever I pour 
the water there do you lay to lustily." 

When the TroUes came, Bondevedde poured the 
scalding water on their heads, and the farm-men laid 
to with all their might and main; so they ran off, 
scalded and beaten, burrowing like moles underground, 
leaving behind them an iron hook they carried with 
them to hang the cask of ale upon. This iron hook 
Bondevedde gave to the church of R0, and out of it was 
made the massive iron hinges on which the door hangs. 
The TroUes, now highly wroth, determined to make 
away with their enemy; so one day as he rode by 
he saw the TroUes dancing in a ring round the h0i 
under which they dwelt "Stop, Bondevedde," they 
cried, "stop and have something to drink." The 
fanner carried about him his own silver cup, and the 
TroUes fiUed it with a golden liquid like hydromeL 
Bondevedde held his cup high, making semblance to 
drink to their health, at the same time tossing the 
contents over his right shoulder: some of the Hquid 
feU upon his horse's haunches, and the hair and skin 



334 BORKHOLM. Ckip.UL 

frizzled and flamed as though burnt bj a red-hot iion, 
leaying a deep wound in the flesh. From that time, 
seeing it was no go, die TroUes left Bondeyedde and his 
wife in peace and quietness. 

But the TroUes are not always nii8chieTOu& They 
are good patriots, and, in time of war, fight like demou 
in defence of their country. Some centuries since, 
when Bomhohn was attacked by the English fle^ 
(when was it?) the Trolles rose up in thousands to 
aid in repelling the invaders. Every h0i was cov«ed 
with them, and they fired — bless you 1 they flred three 
shots in the time you would take in firing one. The 
invaders saw them from their ships, and, when re- 
pulsed, the English admiral, with iis officers and moi, 
having first taken their solemn Bible oath to the truth 
of the assertion, drew up a statement which they all 
signed, and fon^'arded to the English government, dd- 
claring (no doubt the document is still preserved in the 
Record Office) how they were vanquished, not by the 
inhabitants of Bomholm, but by the supernatural ag^icj 
of the Trolles. The TroUes, however, are now qufet 
enough. One weakness they have, of which they neve 
will be cured, and that is for butter. With a peculkr 
art of their own, they come out after nightfall and sud: 
the butter from the cows, without disturbing eith^ the 
milk or the cream. The milk is laid in the pan, the crean 
riseS; and in its turn is placed in the chum : the faim- 
women chum away tiU their arms nearly faU off — no use, 
the butter is not there. Now, a farmer by Alminde, a 
friend of my coachman, suspecting what was the mattei, 
lay in wait one night and watched the cows. Shortlj 
after dark came one of the TroUes — ^incognito as 
TroUes always do appear— disguised under the form of 



Chap. hU, ,THE TROLLES. 336 

a three-legged cat. TroUes, as well as the devil, can 
only transform themselves into maimed animals. His 
Satanic Majesty particularly affects the form of a rat, 
but always a rat without a tail ; try as hard as he can, 
he never can produce even the stump of one. When- 
ever you come across a three-legged cat, shoot it if you 
have a gun by you ; it's a TroUe in masquerade, and 
after some mischiefl The fiEirmer waited till the three- 
legged cat was hanging well to the cow's udder, sucking 
out the butter; then, slily approaching from behind, 
made him prisoner; and how did he catch him? that's 
the question. As much art is required in the catching of 
a TroUe as in the killing of a Norwegian salmon. Well, I 
will tell you how he acted ; he went to the stable, and, 
removing the hempen halter from the neck of a coal- 
black stallion, passed it round the neck of the cat 
and fastened her to the manger. The next morning, 
when he cam^ to look at his captive, what do you think 
he found ? Not a three-legged cat, but an old woman. 
He let her go, for he dared not injure her; so the 
TroUe got off after alL 

The last time the TroUes appeared in public was in 
the y^TB '48, 9, 50, at the time of the Slesvig-Holstein 
rebellion. All united Germany was down upon Den- 
mark, and she had lately suffered some reyerses — men's 
hearts were sad — when one morning a ship arrived at 
the httle town of B0nne. The sailors related how, as 
they passed by the cliffs of Bomholm by night, they had 
seen hundreds and thousands of the Trolles busy doing 
military exercise on the heights, already prepared to 
rise in the defence of their native country. 

" Hurrah ! hurrah !" exclaimed the people ; " the 
Trolles are out*— the TroUes are up — ^no fear of conquest 



836 BORNHOLM. Coap. U. 

now — ^the victory will be ours — ^huirah ! huirah V and 
they were at once wild with joy and delight* Wdl, 
it turned oat as they expected ; the Germans were re- 
pulsed and kicked out of the country, though wh^her tiie 
Trolles had much to do with the matter is uncertain. 
Educate the people as you may — and an exoellent 
education all the Danish nation receive, from highest 
to lowest — ^yon vrill find it difiScult to eradicate from the 
heads of the peasants the belief, handed down from 
father to son, in the existence of the TroUes, who dweQ 
within the h0is and heights of the sea-girt island of 
Bomholm. 

" Well, sir,*' concluded the coachman, " Fm glad yo« 
don't laugh at the Trolles, for most of our people believe 
in them. I can't say I have ever seen them myself; 
but of a night, in the forest of Alminde and along the 
sea-coast, I have seen lights wandering about up and 
down among the woods and the rocks, and' followed than, 
too ; but where they came from, or where they went Us 
I never could tell. I fancy the Trolles must have had 
something to do with it." " No doubt," I replied. Wai 
I wrong ? Ought I to have unveiled to him the fallacies 
of igneous gases, of jack o' lanterns, &c. ? Ma^ be I 
should ; but I left him to his simple belief. 

At the house of old Mrs. Kurts, in the sea-washed town 
of Allinge, we stayed but the time necessary to leave 
our portmanteau and order dinner to be ready for oar 
return, then started on our way to Hammershuus, two 
miles distant 

The little town of Allinge straggles along by the 
sea-eide. If it wished to extend, it must extend itself 



* This anecdote waa related to me by the Amtmaim. 



Chap. UL ALLINGJ&-HAmiEBSHUUS. 337 

lengthways — ^for it has rocks below and above, purple 
rocks dotiied with moss, lichen, and delicate ferns, grow- 
ing out from its clefts and interstices. Allinge possesses 
for its fishing-boats a little home-constructed harbour and 
basin, hewed out of the solid rock, without the aid of 
engineer, and there lay a flotilla of barques, protected 
behind the rubble jetties. There is something fresh and 
exciting, as we drive along, in the air and appearance 
of the^ country : fine green turf, like emwald velvet, and 
those rocks of purple marble — ^marble used in the con- 
struction of the noblest buildings of Denmark, but not 
the fashion, for in Bomholm stand only four churches 
composed of this material. Search where yqu like, 
you will not make them out ; they are tastefully covered 
over with, at least, six inches of whitewash. We turn 
into a forest — ^not a Danish forest of beech, but scat- 
tered clumps of oak, elm, ash, and hawthorn, rising 
among monster boulders, mossy swards, and creeping 
junipers — drive up to a striped &rm-house, sheltered 
from the blast by a protecting group of trees, pass 
through a wooden gate, and the ruins of Hammershuus 
stand before us. 

Hammershuus was a chateau fort of early date. Some 
writers ascribe its erection to Yaldemar the Great;* 
probably it was the handiwork of some Archbishop of 
Lund, of whose diocese Bomholm formed part and 
parcel, and whose authority here reigned supreme. 



* Yaldemar the Great waa proud of the buildings he caused to be 
dreoted. On the plate found placed at the head of his coi&n in the 
ibbey church of Bingsted, it is expressly mentioned how he constructed 
the casUe of 6prog0 with burnt bricks ; would he then hare omitted 
!o make mention of so much more important a work as the faz^famed 
sastle of Hammershuus? 

VOL. II. Z 



838 BORNHOLM. Chip.UL 

Bomholm has never possessed any heiregaards. So 
much the better for the peasants, as they hare beeo 
always free. Many of her inhabitants had pret^osioDS 
to birth, and the impndent prelates dared to ennoble 
their favourites without demanding the aasent of die 
sovereign. First among the families of the island stood 
that of Hafod, or Hofad, descendants of that mightr 
Earl who in the ninth century, with his gallant bazMi 
of Northmen, overran the fair provinces of England 
and France. 

By a document, dated 1514, the then Archbishop o! 
Lund, legate of the pope, proceeds to confer letters of 
nobility upon his trusty servant, " granting him for 
arms a silver buckle on a field gules, with a pair of bonfi 
to wear upon his helmet." In Popish days sovereigns 
winked at ecclesiastical impertinence so long as it did 
not interfere with their own personal interests; bat 
their heyday over, down comes a thundering letter 
(one of his own peculiar) from King Frederic IL Un- 
derstanding how certain inhabitants of the island cf 
Bomholm look upon themselves as noble, he inf(»ms 
them that no patent conferred by foreign authority csn 
be accepted, and they are for the future to consider tboB- 
selves as "nobodies." In case of their again offending 
against the "allerh0ieste" command, the lehnsmand has 
orders to conduct them to the castle of Hammershims, 
and there treat them according to "law and right" 
The borrowed plumes were soon set aside, for people 
well knew that Frederic's " law and right " were mattecs 
not to be trifled with. 

In later days Hammershuus became a state prison: 
Corfitz and Eleanor Ulfeld were here confined for 
the space of one year : they escaped, but were again 



Chap. LIL HAMMERSHUUS. 339 

taken at the town of AUinge, in the act of embarking 
on board a flshing-boat, by (Jovemor Fuehs, who was 
afterwards stabbed by their son Christian, in the streets 
of Brussels, to revenge his father's imprisonment. When 
separated from her husband, Eleanor consoled him with 
these well-known lines — 

" Rebus in adversis, facile est contemnere mortem. 
Fortius ille &oit, qui miser esse potest." 

There is an old Danish proverb — as well as the 
French one* — when " qvinde taler Latin,** &c. — ^when 
a woman talks Latin, no good will come of it; 
which in Eleanor's case was carried out Later Ham- 
mershuus fell into decay, was not, for a wonder, blown 
up by the Swedes in the seventeenth century, but got 
half pulled down for its materials in the eighteenth, 
at the period when everything was destroyed, from a 
downright spirit of Vandalism. The beauty of a ruin 
consists not in its extent, but rather in the maimer of its 
fall ; and Hammershuus, like Julius Caesar, and Iphigenia 
in Aulis, in the Greek play, has had the good taste to 
faU " gracefuUy.** It stands on an isolated hill formed 
by nature. On one side it overlooks the waters of the 
Saltic — ^the Swedish coast for a background; on the 
opposite side a natural ravine, at the foot a stream 
of running water. At the period of its might and 
power this rivulet, dammed up, rendered approach by 
this side impossible. Whichever way the eye turns 
you gaze enraptured with the beauty of the site: the 
bright sparkling sea, and its long line of purple coast, 



* Soleil qui luiseme an matin, 
En&int qui boit du yin, 
Femme qui parle Latin, 
Font toigoura maayaifie fin. 



z 2 



340 BORNHOLM. C&iP.m. 

rising in fantastic crags, like those of onr own Channel 
islands ; to the right again, across the fresh-water lake 
which almost touches the boundaries of the 8ea» rises 
another green and purple hill, on the opposite side 
of which you will find a ruined chapel, with a holy wdl, 
dedicated, of all queer dedications, to King SolomoiL* 
But if the sea-side yiew is enchanting, the inland is no 
less so. Standing upon the walls' height^ you look 
down into the green wooded ravine below: on the 
other side rises a lofty bankside, scattered with bonldei^ 
trees, turf, broom, heath, and cytisus, all min^ii^ 
together in exquisite variety. 

The square tower in which Eleanor Ulfeld passed 
her year's confinement ; the ruined round tower of tiie 
outer side, fSEtUen in varied and unstudied desolation, 
are grand and imposing : even the flora is unlike that 
of old castles in general ; the wild convolvulas here 
leaps and trails itself like a vine along the cxumbliiig 
ruins ; the sea-pink perfumes the air with its fragranoer 
and tufts of the dark-blue dwarf veronica (aerenpriis) 
grow luxuriant among the fallen stone& A heavy 
stone, fined at the edge to a point, jutted out from 
the crumbling wall. After hard pulling it came out — 
strong cement that t — and there it lay in my hand, a 
massive hammer of the stone age, broken at the place 
of piercing, marks of the chisel still visible. What a 
pedigree has that hammer I In its early youth smashing 
the head and braining some Pagan Scandinavian, in 



* King Solomon end the Siege of Troy were fayonrite sabjects of 
the middle ages. 

t Of home manufiBcture, too, for the cement-stone abonnds in Bom- 
holm, and great quantities of it, crashed ready for use, are ezp(»ted in 
barrels to Copenhagen, Sweden, and other localities 



Chap. LU. HAMMERSHUUS. 341 

the twelfth century built into the fortress of Ham- 
mershuus, and now soon to be lodged with other stone- 
lumber of the sort in a Mechanics' Museum. 

But before we quit Hammershuus, observe even in the 
remote island of Bomholm how much is done for the 
healthful enjoyment of the people. Look around how 
in every direction walks ai:e cut out, trees planted, seats 
erected, everything turned to account — as it always is 
in Denmark — ^and where are people so happy and so 
respectable? As much is here done among the wild 
scenery of Hammershuus, and more too, than in the 
most populous towns of our native England. 



342 BORNHOUf. Qbap. LUL 



CHAPTER LIII. 



Famung in Bornholm — Village beacons — The rock Bceneiy — The 
White Oyen yisited at Christmas secure from ghosts — Baniholai 
gold coined by Christian IV. — Its diamonds in tvfonr with Qoea 
Louisa — Bound church of 0ster Lars — FastelaTn at Shrovetide— 
—Forest of Alminde — The birds at the Croes— Tower of Chris- 
tianaminde — Hone-fidr — Font of AaUrkeby. 



I 
September 15th, — Damm^ the' coachman — now, don't 
imagine I'm swearing : it's the man's own name- 
was round with his horses punctual as the dock 
struck seven, or, rather, as the hand pointed to the 
hour on his watch — very good gold watch too^wwi it 
as the chief prize for climbing up a greasy pole when 
in the land of nuggets. Old Mrs. Eorts comes in with 
the bill at the very last moment, with a most dete^ 
mined look about her as though prepared for squalk 
Bill just three times as much as elsewhere ; but th^ 
she is not a regular gjsestgiver, but a lady who *^ takes 
people in" as a fiEkvour. I pay it tranquilly, and make 
no remark, having come to Bornholm to amuse myself 
and not to get into a passion. We return as &r 8b 
Olesker, and then make southwards. Fine bradog 
air. We pass through a succession of cultivated fields. 
Stubble days gone by, all is ploughed ; many portions 
resown with rye. Farmers' carts, horses, and men, in 
full activity. In the background rises a ridge of puiple 
rocks ; while beyond these, towards the sea, among the 
thick protecting forests of ash and oaks, lie the farm- 



Chap. Un. FARMING— R0. ' 343 

houses — small establishments when compared with those 
of Jutland. The farms here are seldom of more 
than 200 acres. Land has lately much increased in 
value. One farm, which some twenty-fiye years ago 
was valued at 2000 dollars, was lately sold for 12,000. 
The peasants are most careful cultivators. When 
the rye is sown, not one pebble is allowed to remain 
on the surface of the field. Were it a geranium* 
bed, it could not be more delicately raked or the ground 
finer ; for this there is but one explanation — ^the peasant 
is here no tenant : the land is his own property ; four 
or six horses are the extent of his possessions and a few 
fiarm-boys his labourers. The farm-buildings have a 
*' cocky" appearance about them, unlike to sober Den- 
mark. Each gable, be there ten of them, is surmounted 
by a vane. 

We enter the parish of B0. Perched upon a neigh- 
bouring h0i stands what first appears a stork's nest 
on a pile of faggots within an open wooden frame: 
but it*s no such thing ; in each successive village you 
will come across the same — ^a beacon, always ready 
prepared, in time of peace as war, in case of a de- 
scent upon the island. No sooner does fire blaze up 
high into the sky than the church belfries send forth a 
peal. The alarm once given, a dozen others flame in the 
neighbouring parishes ; more bells ring, and the inha- 
bitants rise to arms. v 

Before arriving at the church of Il0, built by one 
Simon B0 and his twelve sons — ^all named, from some 
vagary of his own, Simon, after himself— we turn off 
the road to visit the rock scenery of Bomholm. Guide 
not quite sure of his way ; we therefore halloo to a fanner 
busily sowing his wheat from an oblong basket. Farmer 



344 BORNHOLU. " Ch^.UIL 

turns round, having first completed his farrow, and then 
sows his way down the adjoining ridge to our very car- 
riage-wheeL We are all right ; drive on to his fium, 
put up our horses there, and — ^he is too busy himself, 
but his grandfather will show us the way to the Holy 
Well ; so we follow his directions, but he soon appears 
at the house himself, on hospitab'ty bent We most 
have a cup of coSee ; we decline — ^then on our retunt 
His hustru was to have shown us the way — but the 
coffee ? Leave it to the pige (servant-girl). ImpossiUe! 
she is so careless she will be sure to bum it. She 
consults her husband ; first looks at us, then at the coffee, 
and hospitality has the best of it ; so the pige is smn- 
moned, and off we set across some fields, more boulders 
than grass, and then, after more wood, we come to the 
cliff's side. A narrow winding path leads to the beach 
below. Fine bold rocks, divided into squares, rise like 
turrets from the sea which reaches their base. Hie 
pige can tell me nothing. She thinks more of her 
own pretty face — and small blame to her! — ^than all 
the saints of paradise ; but I find out later that 150 
years ago there existed a chapel dedicated to the 
Trinity, and how this little ravine was planted with 
stone and wooden crosses, and the chapel hung widi 
votive offerings, long tresses of women's hair among the 
number. All this has long since disappeared ; the poor- 
box alone remains, iron-bound and massive, nailed to a 
stake firmly planted in the ground, and, like Hogarth's, 
with a cobweb across ikb opening. ^' Tell the gentle- 
man," laughs the pige, ** not to put anything in ; ^ better 
give the money to me to buy a ribbon." You may be 
sure I followed her advice. She knows nothing about 
the Holy Well, but the spring runs from the rock 



Chap. LUL VISIT TO THE "WHITE OVEN." 845 

into a small basin touching the sea, into which it dis- 
charges itself. 

A boat will meet you at the Holy Well by order, 
for you can better judge of this wild and beautiful 
coast firom the water than from the cliffs above. First, 
you pass a wild frontier pile of rocks, called the 
Candles ; one candle got, however, blown over during 
last winter's heavy storms: then close by in* the 
cliff's side you may distinguish the moulds in which 
they were cast, which said candle-moulds are of great 
extent, and run, as these holes always do, as far as Ham- 
mershuus. Ten strokes of the oar bring us to the en- 
trance of the " Black Oven," a dark, cold, slimy, tumble- 
down sort of place. When once in, and after sliding 
and slipping you sit on a damp, cold rock, the view 
of the sea, Candles, and picturesque line of cliffs 
extending towards AUinge — well encadre by the black 
limestone— does repay you for your trouble. Further 
on you pass the "White Oven," an oven not to be 
entered save in time of extreme cold, when the winter 
is at its full and the Baltic frozen around the island. 
Then towards Christmas-time, in the holy days, or 
rather nights, when the days are short and obscure — 
" som stympede lys der have kun oyne og ender" — ^like 
the stump of a candle, only the beginning and the end — 
the peas&nt girls and boys come down in large parties 
with torches and lanterns to explore its wonders. They 
slide and they slip along, and the girls fall down on the 
ice — quite by accident, not at all for the pleasure of 
being picked up again — ^till they come to the place 
where, on raising their heads, they can see through an 
aperture the moon shining and myriads of stars blazing 
in the bright firmament of heaven ; strange to say, 



346 BORNHOLM. Crap^ IHIZ 

when aboye-ground no one has yet disoovered where 
this aperture may lie — ^it is hid to mortal eye& Bat 
they go no farther. No one would dare even this 
journey save on holy nights, when the angels protect all 
innocent pleasures, for the White Oven bears a bad 
reputation, and is generally supposed to be a private 
entrance to a certain place, to which bad Danes as well 
as other folks are allowed free access without giving 
themselves the unnecessary trouble of crossing over 
by long sea from Ck>penhagen to Bomholm. Having 
visited the finest scenery of the clifib, we damba 
again up the bank's side: a mercy old grandfather, 
whom we passed cutting wood and who must be eighty 
at the very least, did not accompany us ; down he may 
have got, but it would have required all the virtues of 
the Holy Well to have dragged him up again. We 
return to the farm-house. A carpenter is occupied 
putting in the double windows; of course, he asks 
whether we use them in England. '^ Seldom; they 
are not required in our mild climate ; besides, in our 
old country houses the windows dose hermetically; 
there is never any draught — ^none, with us, particularly 
on the northern aspects. Our windows never rattle, 
much less let in the air.'* 

We are now under weigh again, pass by the church of 
B0, on whose door you may still see the iron hinge formed 
out of the hook left by the TroUes, — ^iron smelted by 
themselves, no doubts for Bomholm is said to abound 
in minerals, though they have been but little worked. 
In old books you read accounts of a gold-mine, such 
as existed once in Scotland and other localities. King 
Christian IV . caused ducats to be coined, but the foreign 
merchants would not allow the gold to be real ; so the 



COAP. LIIL BORNHOLM DIAMONDS. 847 

king, when a second qnantity was discovered, issned 
a series of whole, half, and quarter ducats, on which 
were represented a pair of spectacles, with fbe inscrip- 
tion, ^' Vide mira Domini," indicating that those who 
donbted the fact might be in want of them. Kings 
liked to coin medab from gold out of their own 
possessions. In the days of swords and knee-breeches, 
of powder, hoops, and shoe-buckles, when aU men 
liked to be smart and glitter, Bomholm, like Alen^n 
and Bristol, bore quite a reputation for diamonds. 
Somehow or other, tradition relates not how, these 
crystals were brought before the notice of our English 
princess the good Queen Louisa. From the day of 
her marriage she became Danoise pur sang, and 
loved, as much as was in her power, to promote the 
manufactures of her adopted country. She recollected, 
may be, the Bristol stones of her own native land, 
then in full vogue and fashion, and one fine nighty at a 
Court reception, she wore in her head a ^^beeve naal'' 
of glittering stones.* 

The courtiers greatly admired the new ornament now 
first worn by the queen. It was beautiful I what taste I 
** A present lately sent from England?" " On the con- 
trary," replied somebody ; " it had arrived only that 
very morning by the courier from Vienna." Queen 
Louisa kept her counsel till late in the evening, and 
then informed her ladies and the courtiers that it was 
composed of Bomholm diamonds. ^'Bomholm dia- 
monds I impossible I " The whole assembly was aghast, 
above all the dowagers of the old regime. Why, 

* BiBYe naal is a sort of pin monnted as a star, a flower, or a rosette, 
hang with dangles. Queen Louisa is represented with one in her 
portrait 



348 BORNHOLM. Chap. UlL 

Bomholm was in Denmark! Was it pmdent, was 
it politic, of her Majesty to encourage anything 
Danish? K it had only come from Germany, — ^they 

were certain Queen Madalena " but Madalena was 

now only queen dowager, and, like most dowagers, oat 
of fashion. The mode took, and the following year Ihe 
jewellers of Copenhagen sold 1080 ornaments, shoe- 
buckles, and headpins of the newly-introduced matenaL 

But Bomholm diamonds, Uke Bristol stones and 
Alengon crystals, had their day, and died out together 
with knee-breeches, hoops, and powder; and in the 
present century ask a Copenhagener if he knows what 
a Bornholm diamond is, he will stare you in the 
&Lce and look on you as demented. 

The country is now intersected by a succession of 
ravines rugged and wild — one, termed the Devil's Creek. 
Our drive continues — more sylvan, more picturesque. 
We pass a second beacon, and, turning a few yards 
off the road, drive up to the httle cemetery, whereiii, 
shaded by an ancient gnarled ash, growth of centa- 
ries, stands the church of 0ster Lars, lai^est of the 
round churches of Bomholm. Around the top of ihe 
building mns a line of pigeon-holes. The tower itself is 
supported by buttresses of immense strength ; we mounted 
to its summit. A narrow gallery runs round within the 
outside walls, pierced by the above-mentioned pigeon- 
holes. Then comes a second wall, stronger, if anything, 
than the firsts with loopholes, like in the church of Ole ; 
and within again a third wall, defended in a similar man- 
ner, though when once driven within for protection there 
could be no possible outlet The same arrangement is 
found in the second story below. The earlier Christian 
inhabitants of the island, pirates and sea-robbers, lovers 



Chap. LUI. RUNIC STONES. 349 

of booty, but at the same time anxious for the future 
safety of their souls, killed two birds with one stone — 
they founded churches and prayed to the saints. The 
church itself differs from the two preceding ones, which 
are supported by one solid pillar; here the centre is 
open and supported by six round arches. A broad cross 
spans the round-arch dome, resting on simple brackets. 
The arrangement is similar, on a smaller scale, to 
that of the Temple de Lanleff, in the neighbourhood of 
St. Brieuc, in Brittany. Unfortunately, these round 
churches are so defaced by galleries, pews, &c., it is 
difficult to judge of their proportions ; and the apse 
here, which with the exterior is of fine old Norman 
work, is so bedaubed witli whitewash as entirely to 
obscure the carvings with which it is decorated. 

At the entrance without stands a Bunic stone, dug 
out some years since from the bridge of the DeyiPs 
Creek, — dating from the Christian period, for in the 
centre is inscribed a cross. The signification of this 
I know not. Bomholm is rich in Bunic stones, many 
of the Christian era. In the church of St. Clemens 
stand two of picturesque appearance under the shade of 
a walnut-tree, inscribed as follows. The first is of hea-* 
then times : — " Gobu Sven raised this stone to his son 
Bj0m, who was a mighty and a strong man. He had a 
wife named Godruna, and he was slain by the JarL" 
The second: "Selfia raised this stone to her husband 
Gudbj0m. Christ help Gudbj0m Alerson's souL Christ 
help the pious Selfia." Selfia appears to haye had a 
good opinion of herself. These inscriptions mostly run 
in the same style ; those of Pagan days merely stating 
who raised the stone and the manner of the death of 
the deceased, while the later ones for the most part 



850 1 BORKHOLM. Cbilp. Un. 

terminate with the words, '^ God have mercy on his 

BOUlI" 

We again proceeded on our way. The old costoms 
of Bomhobn differ little from those once prevalent 
in the rest of Denmark, though now gradually fading 
away. Christmas, as in other countries, is a Beaaon 
of universal rejoicing and merriment ** 6ad si^ne 
eders Juul; Juul til Paaske" — May God bless yonr 
Christmas; may it last tiU Easter. The salt-celkr 
remains on the table during the festival of Juoi; 
Christmas cake and the Juul tonne, which dates from 
Pagan days, to which all strangers are welcomed witii 
" You shall not carry our Juul out of doors." From flie 
24th of December until the New Year no one work*— 
neither man nor woman. The farmer drinks doling 
that period of repose a considerable quantity of honey 
mixed with brandy — a sort of hydromel, the favourite 
beverage — ^and devours huge Christmas cakes ; and die 
young people love the dance almost to frenzy. The 
New Year, however, is not danced in, as with us ; it 
is " shot in " in Bomholm. Everybody who possess^ 
or can shoulder a gun or discharge a pistol fires it off 
as the clock strikes twelve ; large parties of the pea- 
sants mount their steeds, and, visiting the fSsurms of 
their neighbours, fire against the window-panes, startling 
those slumbering within — a somewhat uproarious man- 
ner of \vishing them " a happy New Year." On the 
festival of the Three Kings in every house is ocm- 
sumed a tallow candle with thi-ee wic^s ; then, at six 
weeks' distance from Christmas Day, the Bomholmeis 
indulge in one week of fun and jollity, relics of the old 
Papistic carnival, termed " Fastelavn" (Shrovetide). They 
do their best to disguise and costume themselves, men 



Chap. LUI. FASTELAYK. 351 

as women, women as men, and, with masks on their 
£ace8, go round and yisit the different houses. Some- 
times there are cayalcades on horseback, horses decked 
out as well as their riders ; but for this one week they 
dance from morning till night and from night till 
morning; and Damm, the coachman, who, among 
other accomplishments, plays the fiddle, assured me 
that by the time the Bomholm week's camiyal is 
spent his arms are well-nigh played out of their 
sockets.* Another pastime of Fastelavn appears to' 
me of a somewhat barbarous nature. An unfortunate 
cat is hung up, hermetically sealed, in a barrel, and 
each man tries his skill, with a wooden club, to smash 
the barrel to pieces. A prize, of course, is awarded to 
the yictor. Fastelavn, too, is a season of grand fun for 
the children of the family in Denmark. Some days 
previous to its arrival, yon will see the smaller cellars 
and shops filled with* small rods, gilded and tied up 
with particoloured ribbons. The young ones of every 
house are up at earliest dawn, and, armed with these 
miniature implements of correction, proceed to belabour 
the bedclothes of the whole household — " Whip up, 
Fastelavn," as they call it — and exact, as their right 
and ransom, toys, sweetmeats, and such like. 

* "Do eyeryfhing by rale, as the tailor said when he killed his 
wife with a rule,** is a vulgar— very vulgar— Danish proverb, but one 
which the island peasants adhere to strongly, more especially as re- 
gards the traditions of the Church of Borne. On Good Friday " they 
set their willows." They have an especial day for the planting of 
everything, and, as for signs and wonders, the life of a farmer must be 
a tonnent to him. If on Ascension Day the rye be not in ear, woe 
betide them ; or again, should it rain on any one of the Sundays when 
the Gospels are road from St. Luke, it is a bad look-out for the harvest. 
A great festival, too, is Hollig Bonder's Day, the week after St. Vol- 
borg*8, the time for sowing the com and the week when people clean 
out their houses. 



352 BORNHOLM. Goap. UIL 

Taming off nearer to the coasts we descend a sma]! 
hill, and drive into the little seaport town of Sya- 
nekoy a pretty little striped town, built np the 
ascent from the rocky coasts with a well-to-do look 
about it; each house has a large garden, gay with 
autumn flowers and fruit-laden trees and walnuts 
Were lodgings to be procured, it would be a charming 
sojourn for sea-bathers. 

At Carlsons, where we stopped to dine, the usnal 
question — ^neyer-failing — was asked me. Was I the 
author whose books they loved so much, and who made 
them pass so many a pleasant evening in the loi^ 
winter season ? I believe Captain Marryat's boobs are 
still popular in his own country, but here, in the 
North of Europe, they excite a very furore ; scarcely a 
farmer, scarcely a publican, no less than those of a 
higher class, in the remotest part of Denmark, but 
put to me invariably the same question ; and when I, 
in my humility, have pleaded guilty — although I be no 
* Naval Officer ' — ^to being " own brother to * Snarley 
Yow,' " I could not, were I the author himself, have met 
with greater civility and attention. 

Here, at Svaneke, was I formally introduced to a sort 
of a nephew — qui valait bien sans doute mes antres — a 
large black and white setter puppy, dragged howling 
into the room by the scruff of his neck, christened 
"Japhet^" in honour of that individual who set out 
over the wide world in searcJh of his father. 

A drive across a balmy, breezy moor brought us to 
the royal forest of Alminde. A mile further we land 
at the house of Mr. Bosen, the guardian, where we 
pass the night 

September IQth. — The forest of Alminde is a royal 



3ha:p. LIII. CATTLE-SHOW. 355 

possession. It is Swedish in its character ; the ground 
iindulating, the hills and dales strewn with purple rocks 
iind boulders, tossed about and rising on all sides in 
Daofit chaotic confusion. The pine, the oak, the ash, and 
the birch, wych-elm and dog-wood. September is set 
in, and the tints of autumn in their endless variety of 
colouring are most charming. 

This morning we set oflf on an early walk, passing by 
an obehsk erected to commemorate the visit of his 
present Majesty, when a young man, to his loyal pos-. 
session of Bornholm — a building open to the public 
on high days and holidays, and to-day all is motion 
Emd activity, for it is the annual cattle-show of the 
island, and prizes are awarded to bulls, bullocks, pigs, 
3t hoc genus omne. Long tables are spread out under 
the trees, with coffee, tea, and sm0r brod, to say nothing 
of schnapps ; and while the judges are busy awarding 
the prizes the farmers and their families are occupied 
«dth their inward restoration. Very sturdy little bulls 
— smaU, like all island breeds — ^stand quiescent under 
inspection. A prize-ticket is fastened on to a dun- 
Boloured animal with a white streak across his back ; 
then we make our way on, up and down, down and up, 
till we come to the entrance of a huge encampment, 
mrrounded by an earthen vallum, here termed Gamle- 
borg. Nobody knows aught of its history ; it is now 
studded over with trees, but it is worth while to climb 
on the opposite side merely to look down on the valley 
beneath. 

In an opposite direction, remarkable alone for its 
site — for little of the castle remains — stands the sister 
Fortress of LiUeborg, a stronghold of the Archbishop 
of Lund, built of Bornholm stone. Many ancient 

VOL. II. 2 A 



354 BORNHOLM. QuF.IilL 

nms were here disooyered some yean sinee and 
forwarded to the Northern Museum at CqmihageiL 
Foxes abomid in Alminde, chevrenil too, but the hager 
deer, though frequently imported, do not thrive. Maj 
fare birds here build their nests which hare been knowii 
to do so nowh^e else among the islands of Demnaik. 
The eggs of the per^rine falcon, as well as the laiger 
woodcock, were both taken here last spring. Herons 
are plentiftil in Bomholm, but the stork is more 
chary of its visits. When the swallow abounds in 
summer, the peasants and folks of the little towns csd 
happily console themselves for the stork's absence, for 
the flwallow is even more beloved of the two, and in 
old papistic times was supposed to live and fly nndv 
the special protection of Our Lady. There exists a 
charming old song — ^I have, however, never been aUe 
to procure a copy of it — ^sung still, sometimes, by tlie 
old crones of the island of Zealand, in which the swal- 
low goes to the Yirgin to be^ the loan of a needle and 
thread to sew her nest together. 

Then again there is an old Popish tradition, which 
may be known in other lands, but to me is new, so I 
may as well give it: — **It was on that feaifiil Friday 
when our Saviour hung in his agony upon the croei, 
when the sun was turned into blood, and darkness was 
upon all the earth, that three birds, flying from east to 
west, passed by the accursed hill of Golgotha First came 
the lapwiug ; and when the bird saw the sight before him 
he flew round about the cross, crying, in his querulois 
tone, ' Piin ham I piin ham ! — ^torment him I torment 
him ! * For this reason the lapwing is for ever accursed, 
and can never be at rest ; it flies round and round its 
nest, fluttering and uttering a plaintive cry; in the 



CflAP. Lin. THE BIBD9 AT THC: CROSS. 855 

swamp its eggs are stolen. Then came the stork, and 
the stork cried in its sorrow and its grief for the ill 
deed done, ^Styrk ham! styrk ham! — Give him 
strength I give him strength ! * Therefore is the stork 
blessed, and wherever it comes it is welcome, and the 
people love to see it bnild upon their houses ; it is a 
sacred bird, and for ever unharmed. Lastly came the 
swallow, and when it saw what was done it cried, ' Sval 
ham! aval ham! — ^refresh him! cool .him!' So the 
swallow is the most beloved of the three ; he dwells 
and builds his nests under the very roofs of men's 
houses, he looks into their very windows and watches 
their doings, and no man disturbs him either on the 
palaces or the houses of the poorest peasants. For 
this reason, as you travel in Denmark, you will observe 
the swallows' nests remain undistiurbed ; no one would 
dream for a moment of scratching them down or 
destroying them as we do in England." To this tradi- 
tion the Swedes add a fourth bird, the turtle-dove, who, 
perching on the cross in its anguish, cried, "Kurrie! 
kurrie! kurrie!" (kyrie — Lord!) Since that day the 
dove has never been glad, but flies through the forest 
stUl repeating its sad notes. 

On our way home we visited the celebrated rokke- 
steen, or shaking stone, the largest in the North of 
Europe. It lies in the forest, almost surrounded 
with earth, unlike those of the Breton heath, which 
stand erect and lifted up on high. 

Christiansminde, the Hon of the island, is a square 
lofty tower of Bomholm stone, erected to commemorate 
the visit of the present kjing and the Countess Danner. 
The king is here popular; Bomholm is loyal and 
marble is cheap, and this edifice is an improvement 

2 A 2 



Z5& BORNHOLtf. Chap. Lin. 

on the old-fashioned useless obelisk, for you can here 
mount to the summit and enjoy the view over the 
bright sparkling sea as far as your eye can gaze. 

On our return we found the horse-fair in full force: 
competition for a prize of one hundred dollars. The 
mares were arranged all in a line for inspection down 
by the Eoldekilde, a once-celebrated spring, whose 
waters, if quaflFed on St John's Eve, cured all sorts 
of maladies that flesh is heir to, and the taste is 
said in old books to be at aU times equal to brandy. 
Times are changed, and the waters with them. To-day, 
for every one farmer who drank of the limpid fooii- 
tain, ninety-nine took a swig at the brandy-botde. 
But the exhibition of horses had never been so bad as 
this year, all the better cattle having been sold oflf io 
Prussia during the war-fever in Germany. It must be 
from these islands of the North that Franconi and the 
travelling circuses recruit their studs ; for among the 
numerous " cafe au lait," dun-coloured, flea-bitten, and 
other varieties, stood two geldings, as queer spedmens 
of the equine race as ever mortals clapped eyes upon: 
black as the raven's wing, with four white legs — 
not stockings — white manes, with tails to correspond. 
It is said that somebody from the North presented 
four of these eccentric animals to Louis XTV., who 
was so much pleased with their appearance that he 
had them harnessed to his own particular private gilded 
caroche. 

When we had exhausted the mares and the stallions, 
the three-year-olds, and the very small ponies, we re- 
turned to our carriage. Our first halt was at Aakirkeby 
— one of Bomholm's renowned blue marble churches, 
luxuriant in whitewash, a tumbledown concern filled 




FONT AT AAKIHKKUY, 1K>UNII0LM. 



Vol II.. p SS7. 



qhap. liil aakirkeby church. a57 

with ancient frescoes, and boasting perhaps the most 
remarkable carved font of our Norman period in all 
Europe, each subject represented under atrefoiled arch, 
surrounded with Bunic inscriptions ; the pedestal, too, 
is of great beauty, of serpent decoration. We pass by the 
fourth round church, that of Nylars, one of the largest ; 
the country is here flat, sandy, and uninteresting. An 
hour'Q drive and we are again landed in B0nne. 



8S8 B0OO. Our. IIT. 



CHAPTER LIV. 



Betorn to Zealand — Island of Bog0 — King Yaldemar and the Haii«- 
atikere — The Gooee Tower— Goose carried off by King &ik— 
Gastigation of the &ir Cecilia — Herlnfsholm the Harrow of Densmk 
— Old Bridget and the missing title-deeds — The gaUant AdmiBl 
TroUe — Hvitfeldt the chronicler's Dance of Deatii. 



M0EN. 

October 11. — The autumn is now far advanced; the 
leaves, undevoured by caterpillars, Uang thinly to tbe 
trees ; a feeling of damp pervades the forest and tbe 
Mint; the bathing bower smells like a fungus; even 
the mushrooms are saturated with wet — ^wood-modi- 
rooms, large enough to form dinner-tables to a mairiage- 
party of Trolles or Nisses; they have now all tamed 
black, and are quite uneatable. So we yawn, abuse the 
weather, and, thanking our stars the month of October 
is at last arrived, pay a farewell visit to the Stor Elin^ 
slide once more into the numerous giants' chambeia, 
pack up our clothes, and starts inwardly rejoicing, ftr 
Copenhagen. 

ISLAND OF B0GO. 

We again embark upon the '^ Zampa," bound from 
Stege to Yordingborg. Two ferry-boats meet us in 
the centre of the strait, by Eallehave; we heai 
our course through a world of little islands. The 
coast of Zealand is ridily wooded ; we pass by B^go, 
or the Isle of Beeches, celebrated in the amuds of 



Chap. LIV. VORDINGBORG. 359 

old story^ when every insil possessed her own ralers, 
and they each indiyidually made war one against 
another ; bat we have had the same story elsewhere of 
the sowing of the beech-masts, so may pass it by : and 
then, suddenly, in the distance rises like a phare — though 
not half so useful — a tall, slender tower, the £ftr-famed 
Goose Tower of the castle of Yordingborg, 

VORDINGBORO. 

We land at one English mile from the little town, 
once a city of note in the days of the Yaldemenans, 
now a village, with its tower, its castle-site, alone re- 
maining to test the truth of its earlier glories. 

All the Yaldemerians dwelt at Yordingborg Castle, 
and mightily affected it as a residence — ^it was the 
Windsor of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries; 
in her own convent church, rich still in old carved altar- 
piece, was crowned King Christopher 11.* It was the 
apanage of our Prince George ; at his death returned to 
the Crown ; and was afterwards burnt to the ground, as 
is usual in Denmark. But the fun of the history of this 
chateau fort took place in the days of Queen Margaret's 
father, that " roi farceur,** old Yaldemar Atterdag. You 
recollect the story of the " amulet" taken by the prying 



* The lOTereigiiB Boem in the beg;mnmg to have been crowned any- 
where and everywhere, and the earlier ones— Knnd the Holy, Niels, &o. 
— ^notat aU. Borne of them — ^Hagnus and Svend Grathe — ^received the 
cTown of the German emperor. Yaldemar I. is the first one crowned * 
oome were crowned by the Archbishop of Lnnd. ELnud was crowned 
at Bingsted; Christopher IL at VonUngborg, and Erik Glipping in 
Viborg. JSrik of Pomerania was crowned at Oalmar, and Christopher 
of Bavaria at Bibe. Gonerally on some Saint* s day the coronation 
took place. First it was not cniBtomary to make knights, bnt Erik of 
Pomennia made one himdred and twenty-three on the oooaaon. 



360 TOBDINGBOBG/ Cbap. UT. 



I 



courtier from the breast of poor murdered Tore — haw, 
driven well nigh demented by the affection of his sofe- 
reign, transferred from the corpse of the defunct ini»* 
tress to himselfy he flung the precious stone into a lake 
near Yordingborg, in which locality the affections of his 
master were henceforth concentrated. 

It was in the period of their power and glory that the 
cities of the Hanseatic League, irritated at some leal 
or imaginary injury, despatched each severally his envoy 
— seventy-seven they arrived together — ^to declare war 
against the Danish sovereign. Loud laughed King 
Yaldemar when he was told of their arrival, and louder 
still when he heard that those of South Germany, 
fearing the inclemency of the Danish climate, had 
muffled up their persons in frirs and skins, mach after 
the manner of Greenlanders and Esquimaux. The 
king invites the embassy on the morrow to a state ban- 
quet in the riddersaal of the castle. The ambassador 
arrive, seventy-seven in number, arranged according to 
precedence, and are conducted to the hall of state where 
the banquet is prepared. Sable and miniver, squirrel and 
humble catskin envelop the portly persons of the proud 
burghers of the important League. The king caused 
the stoves to be heaped with wood, and the hall to be 
heated like the fiery furnace of Shadrach, Meshach, 
and Abednego ; have a carouse with his worthy enroys 
he would : the doors were locked, the wine-cup passed, 
the poor ambassadors in their heavy robes melt and 
suffocate, the king and his courtiers at their ease enjoy 
the fun ; they drink, they revel, regardless of the suffer- 
ings of their guests, till nearly break of mom, when the 
envoys are released, with compliments, and orders to 
return the following day to a fresh banquet and receive 



Chap. LIV. VALDEMAB'S EPISTLE TO THE POPE. 361 

the loyal answer. On the morrow they come — not to be 
taken in this time ; the day is cold, the snow falls, the 
vmid bitter — never mind, the King's Grace keeps good 
fires; so the worthy envoys appear clad in garments 
of the lightest and thinnest textures, when, lo! to 
their horror, they find a banquet spread for them in 
the open air, in the castle court. The king, well wrap- 
ped himself, receives them smiling, and, after a pro- 
longed carouse under a falling snow, delivers to the 
indignant ambassadors his answer in ^'platt" German, 
a doggrel of his own composition — 

S0ven nnd 80ventig Hense. Seventy-seTen HanseatikerB. 

S0ven trnd s^ventig Gense. Seventy-BeTen geese. 

Bieten mich nicht die Gense If the geese don't bite I don't care 
So frag ich nicht een Schit a fig for the Hanseatic towns, 
na ^e Hense. 

Very rude on the part of King Yaldemar, but this 
sovereign was a free speaker and stuck at nothing. His 
religious opinions were undecided; at one time he 
appears an atheist, at another he makes a pilgrimage 
to the Holy Sepulchre ; he pays a visit to the pope at 
Avignon, and later, when his Holiness advises him 
to reign mildly, as a father, and not like a tyrant, and 
threatens him with excommunication, Yaldemar writes 
to him the following well-known epistle : — 

"King Valdemar to the Eoman Pontiff greeting. 
We have our nature from God, our kingdom from the 
inhabitants, our riches from our forefathers, and our 
faith from your predecessors ; which faith, if you do not 
fietvour us,^we return you by these presents. FarewelL" * 

• V^aldemar Rex Pontifioi Bomano Salntem. Natoram habemns 2t 
Peo» Begnum ab Incolis, Divitias It Parentibus, Fidem a ttiis Pr»de- 
cesaoribiu^ quam, a. nobis non fitves* per prsssentes remittimtis. Yale* 



362 YOBmNOBORa. Cvav. UV. 

This is die most daring letter ever recerred bj a 
pope, bat, being composed with peculiar na£vet4 and 
openheartedness, the author was not called to aocouni 
The pope only said, ** Yaldi amarum est/' it is Yeej 
bitter. 

In commemoration of the Hanseatic embassy, Yal- 
demar caused to be constructed the celebrated Goose 
Tower, surmounted by a vane — a goose of fine gold. 
When, in after days, Erik the Pomeranian fled with 
the fair Cecilia to the island of Grothland, they earned 
off with them the crown jewels, and all valuaUes they 
could lay their hands upon, among which was numbered 
the golden goose — ^the weatheivcock of the castle of 
Vordingborg. This fair Cecilia was own ladyVmaid 
to our English Queen Phihppa ; beyond the fact that she 
accompanied Erik to Gotliland and remained with him 
nine or ten years, little is recorded concerning her except 
the following anecdote. One day, a powerful noble, Sr 
Olaf Axelsen Thott* by name, when riding accompanied 
by his squires in the neighbourhood of Vordingboig; 
met a lady driving in great state in a queen's coach ; so 
he got off his horse, and, taking off his hat, like a 
well-mannered gentleman, made her a low bow. 

''Haw, haw!" laughed the squires. ''Sirrahs, what 
do you mean by such insolence?" exclaimed the asto- 
nished noble. The attendants here explained who the 
lady was. " Stop the chariot ! " roared Sir Olaf. *'Pull 
the jade out ! " His orders are promptly obeyed, and, 
seizing the unlucky Cecilia across his knees, he tieats 
her just as nurses do refractory children, and gave her, 



* He was one of the nine ions of Axel Thott, known under the 
name of Axeli^nner. 



Chap. IIY. KESTVED. 363 

as the author expresses it^ '^tre smflek paa rompen/' 
adding, ^ Take that to your lord, and tell him by your 
bad influence you will some day cause his separation 
from Denmark." The knight was right, for she did so. 
We slept but one night at Vordingborg. The scenery 
over the water is soft and smiling, soothing to the nerres, 
like that of Denmark in general. 

NESTVED. 

Oetober 3rd. — How the wind did blow, how the rain 
did pour, as we drore along the dull road on our way 
to Nestved! we had decidedly remained too late in 
M0en, and ought already to be lodged safe somewhere, 
and not wandering at this season oyer the wide, blowing 
country of the island of Zealand. 

The little town of Nestved was of more importance 
in former days, and the '* consul and proconsul " were 
treated with becoming respect by King Christian I., 
who summoned them to attend the wedding of Prince 
Hans with " his bride Christina of Saxony,'' in these 
terms : — *^ Christianus I., &c. — Further, dear friends, as 
we intend, with the will of God, to keep the wedding of 
our son on Sunday next after Bartholomew's day in 
Copenhagen, we invite you to come and enjoy yourselves, 
wiUi your wives^ and other friends who shall come," — a 
more general invitation than is given to royal weddings 
in the present day. 

We are lodged at the hotel and rather inclined to 
grumble, but the weather after noon-time clears up ; the 
gun, wearied of staying at home within the black curtain- 
clouds, comes out for a gaze on this world below, and, 
dried and in the sweetest of tempers, we stroll out to 
visit Herlu&holm, the Eton — ^no! Sor0, a real royal 



364 ' HEfiLUFSHOLM. Coap.UV. 

foundation, is the Eton — the Harrow rather of ihe Danyi 
dominions. A clear meandering troutrstreamy through 
a leafy forest^ guides us on our way ; a stray profesaor, 
pale and unwholesome-looking, with the insTitable spec- 
tacles on nose, taking his daily constitutional, and dien, 
further on a party of happy schoolboys, walking arm 
in arm, imparting to each other their little mutoal 
confidences. Group after group passes by, all neatly 
dressed and walking with decorum, for it is Sunday, <»i 
which day alone the boys are permitted to go into the 
town of Nestyed, and after four o'clock, the Lutheran 
Sabbath being over, to visit the *' tuck-shops" of the city. 
Two children look wistfully at us as we pass, and 
whisper something to each other ; we look hack, they 
turn, and then a small boy, more venturesome than his 
companion, runs up, capping us, and we recognise two 
small acquaintances whom we had met in the chateaux 
of their fathers during our wanderings in Jutland. 
They volunteer to do the honours, procure the keys, and 
initiate us into the academy of Herlufsholm, at which 
they are pursuing their elementary studies. 

HERLUFSHOLM. 

Herlu&holm, once a convent of Benedictines, re* 
sembles most of the red brick gaards of its period; 
much massacred, happily unwashed. It was founded 
in the 16th century by the celebrated Adnairal Herluf 
TroUe and his wife Bridget Gi0e.* Herluf exchanged 



* The Gi0e fiunily date back to the thirteenth centory. Mogens* 
&ther of Bridget, became a great advocate of the Beformation and 
corresponded with Luther. He was appointed to arrange the mar- 
riage of Christian 11. with the Princess Elizabeth, whom he espoused 
by procuration, , His brother Henry commanded the fleet sent to bring 



Chap. LIV, THE MISSING TITLE-DEEDS, 365 

the manor of Skovkloster with King Frederic IT. for 
that of Hiller0dsholin, now Frederiksborg. 

It's a very pious act, no doubt^ founding colleges and 
hospitals after you're dead with your money, but the 
proceeding is seldom approved of by your nearest heirs 
and relatives. It having come to the knowledge of " the 
disinherited " that the title-deeds of the college were 
mislaid, they forthwith brought an action against the 
foundation for the recovery of the manor and its depen- 
dencies. Most indefatigable search had been made into 
every cupboard, every mouse-hole of the manor, without 
effect; the lawsuit was going against the Academy; 
and the rector, worried and sad (as he himself 
relates), worn out with anxiety and useless racking of 
his brain, feU asleep one evening in his arm-chair in 
his homely bed-room of the old conventual building. 
.The moon shone bright, and suddenly visible in her 
pale rays appeared before him the form of old Bridget 
Gi0e, wife of the founder ; angry and exceeding wrath- 
ful she looked, menacing with her hand, as much as 
to say, " What's the use of my founding academies if 
you spectacled fools go and lose the title-deeds ? — ugh ! 
you st-o-o-o-pid I " and down, in her wrath, she banged 
her clenched fist upon a small table by the fire-side, 
making the very chamber ring with the noise, and then 
disappeared. The tormented rector starts from his 
chair alarmed; suddenly a thought strikes him; he 
seizes the poker, and, following the example of the 
ghost, bangs away at the table, till it flies shivered to 
bits, and there, hidden in a secret drawer, lies forgotten 



her to Denmark, and remained faithful to her fortunes to the last, for 
which his property was confiscated hy Frederic I. 



866 HERLUFSHOLM. Chap. UT. 

the very document whose loss had well-i^gh caused the 
dissolution of the budding academy. 

We visited the dormitories, each with its fifteen beds- 
boys arranged according to their ages and size— name on 
each bed — ^the washing-rooms, studies^ gymnasiuni, and 
salle d'armes; many are the portraits of ihe woxthy 
founders. Old Bridget looks well capable of Rmashing a 
table or a skull if she felt inclined — ^kQ last person in 
the world one would care to meet with on an excunian 
from the land of spirits. She was lady of honour to 
Queen Dorothea, and is said to have contributed more 
to the establishment of the Beformation than any one ia 
Denmark, for, when Hans Tausen first preached the 
doctrines of Luther, she it was who induced Bonner, 
the Bishop of Zealand, not to treat the matter harshly. 
(Bonn0y was an admirer of Bridget before he entered 
into holy orders.) Lastly, we visit the chapel, wheie 
behind the altar lie the splendid black and white marble 
monuments of the founders ; better kept they might be, 
and should be, for it is little to the credit of the autho- 
rities to allow them to be mutilated, and made resting- 
places for brooms and brushes. 

Small boy brings us a cannon-ball, most uncomfort- 
able affair, with a spike projecting from one end of 
it ; he dragged it out from among some rubbish — ^the 
very ball firom which the gallant old Admiral met his 
death-wound in a conflict with the Swedes in 1565.* 



* When about to start on this last expedition, a friend romoostnied 
with him on again risking hia life after such long service. TroUe repliad, 
'* If I lose this life, I enter another. Do you know why we are called 
gentlemen, and why we wear chains of gold ; why we possess lord- 
ships, and expect more respect from others? It is becauiie we have 
the satisfaction to see our peasants live in peace, while we, with oar 



' Chap. LIV. HVITFELDrs DANCE OF DEATH. 867 

But really the auihoritieB — ^for we all know how im- 
moveable learned corporations are all the world over — 
have made a move of late years; they have closed 
the oofiBn of Denmark's Lord Chancellor and histo- 
rian, Hvitfeldt, who is here interred.* Old Herlufs- 
holmians recollect the time when, in the heyday of 
their youth and spirits, though perhaps not grace, they 
—on mischief bent — ^uncovered the sarcophagus of the 
old chronicler, dragged him from his resting-place, and, 
each giving him a hand, waltzed him round and round 
the church — a living Dance of Death, not painted in the 
designs of Cranach, or Hans Hemling either — ^irreve- 
rent monkeys I 

The evening is bright and autumnal; our young 
guides conduct us by a new way through the forest to- 
wards Nestved. We pass through their summer play- 
ground, a waving canopy of foliage overhead, not to be 
penetrated by the sun's rays. This forest is very charm- 
ing, most enjoyable, doubly so to youth ; and then, hav- 
ing taken leave of the little fellows with that mysterious 
pressure of the hand, a sort of freemasonry which makes 
a visit from "friends of home" extra acceptable, we 
dismiss them to their tuck-shop, bull's-eyes, hardbake, 
and toffy. May angels watch over their digestion 1 

One advantage have Sor0 and Herlufsholm over our 
public schools of Eton and Harrow — ^recollect I speak 



king, defend our oonntry. If we wish for what is sweet, we must also 
taste the bitter." It was Herluf who commenced the collection of 
chronicles of which his nephew Hvitfeldt later made use. 

• He died at Herlufsholm 1608. Hvitfeldt was sent ambassador to 
the Court of Queen Elizabeth to restore the insignia of the Garter at 
the death of King Frederic IL His History of the Danish Monarchy 
extends from Dan Mikillati to Frederic U., and was edited and con- 
tinued by Eesen. 



HERLUFSHOLM. .Chap. UV. 

as man, not with the feelings of a schoolboy, who prefers 
all that is wrong in this world to what is good for him. 
Being far removed from large towns, the boys are not 
encouraged to run into every kind of extravagance, and 
compelled to pay just three times the value of every 
article in which they invest their pocket-money — a sys- 
tem of robbery licensed, Heaven only knows why, by the 
authorities of the above-mentioned places. Ab r^anb 
learning, who ever learned anything useful at a pubUc 
school in England except to be and conduct himself like 
a gentleman ? with that we all rest satisfied : self-edu- 
cation will come later, somehow or other, when onoe a 
man feels the want of it. 



Chap. LV. GAUN0. 369 



CHAPTER LV- 



Peter Thoii and his li0i -- The Black Friis of Borreby *- The enchantedt 
bell of the Letter-zoom — Old Yaldemar Daa the alchymist— The 
giant girl and the sandhills — The "Lady of the Mom '* the corae 
of Zealand — Thorvaldsen at Nys^ — The convent for noble ladies 
at Gisselfeld — Peter Oxe the minister of Frederio II. — The 
ladies of Yemmetofte — A starlight night — Spoliation of the 
goddess Freia. 



GAUN0. 

October 4tL — ^Thbee days' rain; it is over, and we 
have bright autumn weather again. We started this 
morning early, for the days close in fast^ and it is well 
to have the daylight before you, to visit Gaun0, the 
seargirt ch&teau of Baron Eeedts Thott^ at a mile's 
distance from the town of Nestved. A fine old 
place it is, and contains a great many pictures — 
heirlooms to the family — how many thousands I 
dare not affirm* The Thott family, say some, existed 
centuries before the Christian era. One Peter Thott is 
mentioned as having rendered good service to King 
Valdemar in his wars against the Wends. Pagan he 
remamed though patriot, but his son Thor the Bearded 
WB8 baptised and became Grovemor of Iceland and 
Skaane. He stuck however to the good old customs, 
suid was buried like a true Scandinavian under a h0i in 
Skaane, called Ki0ling-h0L On this hill were many 
itones, one of which, called Lille Tulle, bore the fol- 
lowing inscription:—* 

VOL. II. 2 b 



STO SKJEL8K0R. Ohapl IT. 

** Dalby mill and Eielbj mead, 
Beechen grove and Rings0 lake. 
Give I to Bosie KloBter new ; 
But I myself lie under tliis b^i.'* 

A peasant once carried off the stone to repair his house, 
but the ghosts made such a hideous noise, his &nuly 
were scared out of their wits, and resolved to depot 
bag and baggage, when a ghost ap^ared before them, 
saying, "Eeplace Lille Tulle." They did so, and the 
noises ceasedL Later, however, the stotte was catried 
off by Tage Thott to use in the construction of his 
ch&teau at Eriksholm, but he wi^ one of the fkmily, and 
the ghosts said nothing. 

We had meant to extend our journey as fieur as 
Holstenborg and Skjel6k0r, the former the seat of the 
Counts of Holstein ; S]gelsk0r a small town, remark- 
able for nothing except for the fact that no Danidi 
king has ever visited within its walls since the days of 
Erik Menved. According to traditicm, jSkjdsik0r is one 
of the strongholds of the Elf King ; and were a living 
monarch to attempt to cross the bridge which leads 
within its gates, the structure would straightway crumble 
down and immerse the royal party in the waten 
below. 

But though Skjelsk0r is a town of little histonc 
interest, not far from it stands the picturesque ch&teao 
of Borreby, built, it is said, with the stones from Maisk 
Stig's stronghold at Stigs Nabs. Borreby is the herregaard 
of a branch of the Friis family— ^the "Black Friis** as 
they were styled, from their bearing three black squir- 
rels* as their arms — one of whom, John Friis^ was the 



The Friifl, of Fiiiflenborg, bear a red sqtdnd crBcJdng a mil 



Chap.LV. BORREHr. S71 

firat FrotesteBt High Chancellor of Denmark, the fiiend 
of Luther and Melaacthon, who faithfully served his 
country for fifty yeare under four sucoeafflre soyereigna. 
John died unmarried^ and Borreby descended to his 
nephew Christian,* who likewise filled the office of 
Chancellor, and was minister pleoiipotentiary to the 
Court of Queen Elizabeth. Now, in the southern wing 
of the old mansion was a yaulted chamber called the 
<' Letter-room," formerly fidl of old chests and manu* 
scripts long since dispersed. From the ceiling hung 
suspended an ecichanted bell ; and when the Chancellor 
Christian Friis was at his last extremity, he told the 
liady Mette Hardenberg, his wife, that, when she should 
hear the bell in the letter-chamber sound, she must 
prepare to follow him to the grave. And thus it occurred 
some years afterwards. One evening the lady was sit- 
ting at cards when the bell in the letter-chamber was 
heard to toll Lady Mette laid down her cards, and 
said to her friends, *^ I have a good hand, but I shall 
not Kve to play it out— I am about to die." At thfe 
same time she expired. 

The Daa family next became lords of the manor. 
Taldemar Daa laid waste a forest of oaks by cutting 
down the largest trees to build a costly man-of-war, which 
he ^pected the king, Frederic III., to purchase at an 

* The Fiiifl have given ^o Cliancellon of the name of Christian. 
The other, gzeat-nephew to the gallant old BiBhop of Yiborg, was one 
of the first eleven knights of the Armed Hand» whose names are per- 
petnated in a distich : — 

''Friis, Lnng, Bkeel, Bantnn, Bantstan, tn Bildeqne, Bantzan, 
Sinklar, Sparr, et Pens, Sandberg et Skeel, partis eqnestiis.'* 

Charles L esteemed him so highly that, when Sir Thomas Boe was 
sent ambassador to Denmark, Charles gave him an autograph letter to 
*Fii]s, reeommending him to \aa especial notice. 

2 ]} 2 



872 . BORREBT. Qhap. LF« 

exorbitant price. The king sent an admiral to inspeek 
it^ who admired a fine pair of black horses whidi YaUe* 
mar had in his stable. Yaldemar would not take the 
hint and presentthem to theadniiral, so the latter returned 
and gave a bad reportof the ship ; the king declined the 
purchase^ and it was left to rot upon the strand. Later, 
Yaldemar turned alchymist, and became so poor that gdo 
hard winter his three daughters remained months in bed 
because they could not afford fuel. At last he fancied 
he had discovered the great secret; but he let fiJl the 
precious vial ; it broke, and his hopes were dashed to 
the ground. More poverty, mortgage foredoeed, &c.» 
and the fiamily had toleave Borreby. On foot, staff in 
hand, accompanied by his daughters, an alchyncdcal vial 
in his bosom, he went forth a wanderer from his onoa 
princdiy home, to die in misery and obscurity. One 
day a large black dog arrived at JBorreby, and entering 
the hall proceeded to the letter-room and pulled Iha 
bell with his teeth. The new possessor was alanned, 
but afterwards found that at that very moment had 
expired at Yiboig old Yaldemar Daa, late lord of the 
manor of Borreby. 

We returned to Nestved to breakfast, and again 
started on the road which leads towards PrsBsto. After 
leaving the town to the right, at some distance re* 
moved &om the sea runs a lofty ridge of sand-bankB^ 
bakkere as they here call them. Splendid view from 
the top, says the postilion^ finest in Zealand; we de- 
cline; much too windy; our energies, too, are well 
nigh exhausted. Geologists and wiseacres would be 
puzzled ever to know how this ridge of sand-hilla got 
themselves here inland, where they have no business 
to be, were it not for Tradition, and she luckily knovfs 



Chap. LY, THE GIANT GIRL. 873 

eTeiything. Once on a time in the neighbourhood 
of Nestred there lived a giant girl, a good girl enough, 
only she had long, bare legs, and the boys laughed 
at her, calling out '^ Long shanks I long shanks!" 
whenever die appeared. One day they worried and 
teased her beyond all bearing; in a fury she rushed 
down to the seapshore, and, filling her apron with sand, 
was about to oyerwhelm the town of Nestved, and 
bury houses and inhabitants, rude boys and girls to- 
gether ; only there was a hole in her apron, and, as in 
her rage and haste she hurried along, the sand ran out, 
and when she arrived, quite out of breath, it was nearly 
all gone, so she plumped down the remainder just at 
the highest spot, turned tail, and was never seen again 
in the island of Zealand. 

The way appeared to us somewhat long, varied 
only by occasional patches of beauty — ^untidy, stubbly 
fields — ^the yellow chrysanthemum, as noxious weeds 
always do in this world, growing and flowering in lux- 
-Biiance. ** Morgen frue," or lady of the mom,* as it 
IS called by the simple and unsophisticated, a curse to 
the agriculturist^ was until just two hundred years since 
unknown in the Danish dominions. 

It was in the year 1659, when peace was proclaimed 
between Denmark and the Swedes, that the Branden* 
burghers and the Folacs were about to quit Jutland. 
Allies they were in name, but nothing more; they 
did greater harm by their ill deeds than the enemy 
themselves — destroyed, robbed, pillaged, and it is now 
said that the Jutlanders have never since recovered 
their prosperity. Before leaving the country they pmv 



^ Ghxymnihemiim aegetomt 



$74 PRESTO. Chaf.it. 

posed selling their suj^lies of com and otber proirisions 
by auction. So the JutLanders, eyer true patriot^ 
agreed they would none of them purchase the aitide^ 
and that the Pdlacs should deriye no benefit bom the 
disposal of their stores. The sale commenced, but no 
bidders appeared, save one aged peasant^ a man who 
could not resist the temptation of the low pricea* an^ 
much to the disgust of his companions^ he purdiased 
the com of the Folacs. ^^It will do you no good,^ 
they exclaimed ; ^* recollect the old song :-^ 

* When the Dane or the Swede 
Sow Gennan eeed, 
111 luck will come to both Dane and to Swede.' ** 

But he laughed and went his way. Fart of the com he 
gave to his horses ; they sickened at once and died, sohc 
sowed the remainder ; and when it came up^ the &dda 
were yellow as gold — ^it was two parts " morgen frne f 
the flowers seeded; the evil spread; and now you find 
this plant growing £ar and wide, to the injury of the 
crops of the Danish islands and Jutland south of the 
Liimfiorde. 

PRESTO. 

We approach the prettily-situated town of Fraestoy 
or the Island of Friests — erne Lutheran parson al<nie 
rules here supreme. We go to the little iun» where Hie 
landlord insists on preparing us a dinner whicb never 
can be ready bef(»*e to-morrow morning. We first visit the 
banks of the lovely little fiorde — so 1>lne» so wooded, so 
serene. Danish scenery is invented for the soothing of 
raffled nerves. I highly recommend doctors to ocdec 
thereunto all their hypochondriacal patients. Then we 
pass by an aveni^e of limes to Nys0^ the manorial resi- 



Chap. LV. KYS0-OiaSELFiXD. 875 

denoe of the Baroness Stainpe> whom we luckily find 
9i home. 

Nys0 poeseases another interest apart from its ancient 
Iraildings and its antique old-fiEtsbioned gardens; for 
in this manor-house Thorvaldsen, the honoured of kinga 
and peasants, passed the last summers of his long and 
veil-spent life. He had almost ceased to work, but 
the Baroness Stampe encouraged him to recommence 
his labours ; and here, in the garden of clipped hedges* 
bx a small kiosk, he held his studio, which is preserved 
9& sacred, and where still exist many of his original bas- 
reliefs in plaster. 

In the ch&teau hangs an admirable portrait of the 
great sculptor by his friend Horace VerAet — ^painted in 
bis blouse ; fax superior to the Chrisitmas-tree of Frede- 
xiksborg. 

When we again returned to the inn, no chance of 
dinner; the pudding still boiling, so we waited till 
^ight, and we waited till mne, and I had intentions 
pf going dinnerless to bed; when, after the two-and- 
fortieth " strax," it did come, and very good it was ; 
only we all had the nightmare, and I dreamt of the 
giant-girl of Nestved, who sat on my chest with a 
pudding, and throttled me, pouring sand through the 
hole in her apron. Nearly senseless, I awoke in an 
%wful fright, and found myself almost buried alive under 
a hecatomb of duvet 

GISSELFELD. ^ 

- October btL — ^Up betimes, and off early, as old Pepys 
would say, for we have a long day's sight-seeing before 
us — a day's sight-seeing which would have, satisfied the 
worthy old gentleman himsel£ Very pretty is the road 



376 GISS£LFELD« Chaf.LY. 

along the banks of the purple veil-wooded fiotde after 
we pass N7S0; and then we get into the high road, 
like all other high roads odious, till we come to B0IV- 
nede kro, where we change horses, one nule's ^ly^^n^ 
£rom Gisself eld* 

So, as the weather is bright and the bye-road dry, ire 
continue our way on foot ; the stately abbey, embowered 
in woods, is seen for a moment in the distance, and 
then disappears from our view* Gisselfeld was always 
somewhere, never where we expected it, till I almost 
fancied it to be like a plaisanterie of our Jutland fitiend, 
the fairy Morgana. At last, after turning off into a sort 
of park, mushroom bedepked, and richly timbered, we 
reach a lodge, mount the waggon, drive tip to the 
gardener's house, and turn into the garden of the 
abbey. Nature has here done much, for she nndnlales 
well and supplies a lake of water ; the slopes are dad 
with emerald turf and ornamental shrubs, Borbi and 
cratsegi, in all the glory of their golden and blood-ied 
fruit; art has furnished platebandes of gay aatmon 
flowers, and the garden is well backed with beechen 
woods. Gisselfeld, ^ of course, itself disappeaiB fram 
the scene. We were some time before we fomid the 
entrance to the fine old building — one of Denmark's 
best, but whitewashed. It was built in the days of the 
(Second Christian — ^perhaps a little earlier — by some 
member of the house of Oxe, of the same family as Tor* 
ben Oxe ; and later dwelt there the celebrated Peta 
Oxe, whose portrait hangs in the riddersaaL Mini«^Ar 
to Frederic 11., and Grand Master of Denmark, he oon« 
tributed greatly to the advancement of his nejdiew 
Tycho Brahe, and it was he who first reformed tiie 
finances of the kingdom and diminished the expenses 



Ckaf.LV. BREGENTVED. . 877 

of the royal honsehold — ^put the serrants on board-wages, 
&e. Oxe introduced the crayfish, ^'Taake krabbe/' 
into Denmark, as well as other sorts of fish, and a 
species of fix>g which went by the name of Peter Oxe's 
frog. He and his masculine wife Mette Bosenkrants 
were interred in the Frue Eirke of Copenhagen, long 
since destroyed by fire. After passing into the female 
line, Gisselfeld was at last given or came into the pos« 
session of Christian 6yldenl0ve, son of Christian Y. by 
Mrs. Moth, a brave and gallant man. He served in 
Italy under the Prince Eugene, commanding the Italian 
troops ; but met with an early death, and by his will 
bequeathed the manor of Gisselfeld and its broad lands 
to found a convent for poor but noble maidens. 

The head of the Danneskiold family enjoys the 
office of Administrator of Gisselfeld, and the eldest 
daughter of that house is bom hereditary Abbess of 
the convent. As for the nuns, they are flitting about 
the world somewhere. 

One half-hour's drive brings us to Bregentved, the 
princely residence of Count Moltke, the much re- 
spected ex-nfinister. K the approach were only freed 
from stables, outhouses, &c., it would be perfect. The 
gardens — ^prettily laid out in the French style, the long 
clipped allies with fountains and statues, staircases of 
marble and terraces — ^reminded me of Versailles with- 
out its stiff formality. Then, on the opposite side of 
the hedge, stand on the lake's bank two picturesquoi 
creeper-embowered cottages, all stripes and gables* 
England, the country of garden, turf, and sward, could 
produce nothing prettier. On a height above an artifi- 
cial cascade stands an obelisk to the memory of King 



878 OO^YEWt OF YRHMETOFTE. Chaf. LY. 

Frederic Y., ooncenung whose Tisit to Bregentved 1n^ 
dition relates queer stories. 

Frederic wa8» as you recollect^ a gay and joyous 
youihy a little' mauvais sujet — no wonder, bored ta 
death by the hypocrisy of his Ifather's court He laved 
to run down to Bregentred, with a band of boon 
eompanionsy to enjoy himself. They dii^;uiBed tbem« 
selves as peasants^ and amused themsdyeB among the 
villagers. One day, when at supper, the prince in a 
fit of jealousy drew his sword, and passed it thros^ 
the body of his host and companion. The blood stiD 
stains the floor of the banqueting^hall ; no BCOHring- 
drops, no soda» will remove the spot — ^indeed, the house- 
keeper declares the more you scrub the redder it 
becomes, like Bizado's gore in the Palace of Holyrood. 

VEMMETOFTE. 

We are all among the nuns to-day, and hasten off 
as fast as horses will carry us towards the convent of 
Vemmetofte, anxious to catch the daylight We were 
told to expect little beauty, but that the coUeeticii at 
Yoyal partraits was interesting, as well as the interior of 
the building. The new courts lately erected — a fine 
series of gabled buildings in striped brickwork — aro 
highly creditable to the ^'ladies" of the chapter: 
decidedly architecture is on the move in Denmark. 

This chapter was founded m 1785 by Prince CSbarlei^ 
brother of King Frederic IV., and his sister the Prinoess 
Hedvig, who resided here until the day of her death. 
We were received by the priest of the establishment who 
conducted us over the apartments, which have remained 
in statu quo since the death of the foundresfl^ and cm- 



Chap. LY^ THE GHAPfil.. 97» 

tarn many objects, embroideied ficreena, &c., of her 
handiwork. The portraits are good; n<Hie wantiBg 
save that of the Beventlow Queen, who 8eld<}m appears 
oat of Jutland. Of Caroline Matilda there hangs a 
good specimen. Yemmetofte in its day was the pro- 
perty of the Brahe fSeonily, and in one of the reception- 
jooms there exists a fine old chinuxey-piece with 
the arms and device of Tycho carved thereon. In a 
small turret^chamber leading fix>m the great saloon 
bang the portraits of the ten first-elected ladies of the 
ehapter, attired in black, bearing ax their breasts the 
badge and star of the order — ^ten prettier creatures J, 
Jiave seldom seen. 

The conyent of Yemmetofte is about to undergo a 
thorough restoration^ rendered necessary by the con^ 
trast of its whitewashed waUs with the admirable courts 
lecently erected. Our reverend cicerone conducted us 
to the chapel — a low vaulted building, hung with 
numerous pictures, chiefly collected by Prince Charles 
when at Borne ; some appeared to be of the Bok)gne8e 
school, but light was insufficient I can only retain a 
eonfused idea of a Last Judgment by Krock, of Flens^ 
boorg — a miniature copy of the larger altarpiece con<> 
somed in the conflagration of Christiansborg Palace iu 
1794. 

We had lingered so long over the tapestries and 
ancient furniture, the queer old gilded stones, the 
Chinese scent-bottles of the Princess Hedvig, the por- 
traits, and various souvenirs of royalty treasured up and 
connected with the place, that daylight had fast closed 
in ere we quitted for our destination. We are still 
some ten or twelve miles' distance from the little town 



880 SPOLUnON OF THE Chap. LT. 

of Store Hedinge, where we purpose to pass tbe 
night The eyening is dark, but the stars shine 
brightly in the heayens; Earls Yogn — as is hese 
called our Charles's Wain, or the Great Bear — ^wiBi 
his companion, Qyinds Vogn, or our Lady's Waggon^ 
the Little Bear, glitter and twinkle in the celestial 
hemisphere. The Pleiades too: and here ends my 
astronomical learning ; for Orion is pale and indistinct ; 
a month later he will come out bright in his foil 
glory: old people in out-of-the-way parts of Jutland 
still term this brightest of constellations Freias Bok 
(distaff), the only possession Freia^ Venus of the Scan- 
dinayian landct, still retains. Poor Freial Never was 
spoliation more complete. They took £rom you ey^- 
thing — ^your stars, your flowers. That pretty golden 
yetch,* which grows creeping and trailing among the 
grass, known to eyery village child as ladies' shoes and 
stockings (our Lady's it should be), once Freia's, is now 
termed Maries Guldsko (gold shoes). Even the gossamer 
was taken from her, and became Jomfintraad — ^toUe de 
la Yierge in France. What tears poor Freia most faaye 
shed at this spoliation of her belongings ! and when she 
Wept» as all men know, ^h briny drop as it trickled 
down became at once a nugget of the purest gold. 
May be it is the tears of this pagan goddess which lie 
scattered oyer the sheep-paths of our Australian colonies 
and California. Loki, the Grenius of Evil, fared better; 
but then all his plants were rubbish, such as our English 
botany awards to the devil — ^flowers of poisonous or 
prickly nature, badly seeding ; so nobody cared to have 



* Lotas oomioulatno. 



cbap.lv. goddess FRELU 88t 

them, and they still bear his name. Balder retains 
as his property one of the hawkweeds, termed Balders 
Biaa (hrow).* 

* The god Balder ia said by tiadition to be buried at Fonen, under 
a h0i called Balder's Hill. Great treasarea are, of conrBe, oonoealed 
-within. Some peaflants many years sinoe came there by night to dig 
ibr the gold. But no sooner did they torn the sod with the pickaxe 
than a rushing stream of water burst forth fix>m the hill-top, washing 
peasants, pickaxe, shoyel, and wheelbarrow, half aoro« the isle of 



882 STORE HEDIKOE. Goat. LTL 



CHAPTER LVI. 



The doBiiiiioBS of the Blf King— Hoapitelity at fitoie HediBge— Xbe 
Trolles and the church of H0ierap — Yallf^ the Qaeen of Duask 
conyents — The ancient honse of Bille — Lucia the Flower of Doi- 
mark — The last of the BoaensiiarTeB— Ledreboig, the ancient Leixa 
— Court etiquette of Eling Ring — Legend of King Skiold, fixadar 
of Leira. 



STORE HEDINGE. 

We were tired and sick of star-gazing, when a light 
appears at the road's-end, faint at first, and later brighter, 
and then quick flits across the horizon a line of welcome 
stars: there is now no doubt we are at our jour- 
ney's end, and before a few minutes have elapsed we 
drive into our haven, the town of Store Hedinge ; we 
rattle down the street into the Place, where scarlet 
postilion stops and inquires, ''Where shall I drive yoa 
to ?" " Drive to ?— to the hotel, of course.'' " There ii 
none." " None ? to the kro then." " No kro." « Non- 
sense ! there must be." " The Gjaestgiver is in the 
churchyard, and the kro bankrupt" " Where can 
we sle^, then ?" " At Ki0ge, twelve miles further." 

So we drive to the post-house, to order horses on to 
Ei0ge. The postmaster was out, but we are udiered into 
a small, prettily furnished drawing-room, where we find 
his wife sitting working, together with her friends, round 
the table. How cosy and comfortable they did look! 
We tell our piteous tale, and the kind lady melts at our 
distress. Go on to Ki0ge, impossible! such a cold 
night: she will send out and find us rooms in the town 



Chap. LVI. HOSPITALITY. 888 

when her hnsband comes in. When did we dine ? We 
own that we had eaten our sm0r brod at eleven o'clock at 
K0nnede kro, and had fasted ever since. Why, we must 
be faint ! she will give us scxne tea» will take no denial 
(I can't say we did stand out vigorously), and off she 
goes to call her maid. In ten minutes' time we were 
ushered into the next room, not only to our tea, but to 
an excellent 6tq)per of cold meat, sm0r brod, compdte, 
and fruity prettily arranged on old Danish china, fine 
linen, and bright silver ; no fuss, no boAer ; we were 
kindly welcome. There is a refinement about the 
middle class of Danes in their household arrangements, 
seldom to be met with in other countries ; and so we 
ate, drank, and refreshed ourselves, our kmd hostess 
attending on us, watching and anticipating our wants ; 
OUT spirits raised^ we talked and chatted away, all 
about our travels, and then came in Postmaster Jas- 
persen himself with the news of rooms at an old lady's^ 
who had turned her house upside down for our accom-* 
modation. When supper was finished we all sat and 
talked over the legends (rf the place; all about the 
Elf King, of whom you wiU hear more to-morrow; 
then, as a message arrived to say our rooms were ready, 
we departed — ^after many thanls on our side, and much 
pleasure on hers, lantern-lighted by the maid — ^to our 
resting-place, where we were received by our hostess, 
a jolly old dame, who could not do enough to make 
US comfortable. Such questions as she made about our 
break&sts for to-morrow ; such caresses to the dogs — 
Lina and Vic — ^who she felt certain wero starving; 
they had already supped — ^no matter, they must sup 
again: a little milk at any rate. At last we got to 
bed, and slept like tops, till awakened by the market 



384 STORE HEDINQE. Chap. LYL 

'Waggons rolling and rattling through the streets on the 
following morning. 

October Qth, — ^We are in the dominions of the Elf 
King, a most important personage in these parts. Store 
Hedinge is his capital According to the old tm- 
dition we mentioned at Skjelsk0r, no soyereign dares to 
plant his foot within the precincts of his kingdom — ^the 
Elf King would not allow it. "Well soon see that,** 
said King Christian lY. ; so down he came in all 
the pomp and state of majesty, and made, after the 
manner of the day, a royal progress through the country* 
iBnt the people did not belieye in him a whit "It's 
only," cried the peasants, " the Elf King, who, for good 
reasons known only to himself, has assumed the appear* 
ance of earthly royalty." A charming operetta, styled 
^Elverh0i,' in which the best of the Danish nati(xial 
airs are introduced, has been composed on this subject. 
The Elf King was, howeyer, affix>nted, quitted his resi- 
dence at Steyns Klint, and took up his abode in the now 
deserted monks' prisons of the round churdi of Store 
Hedinge. We yisited, as you may imagine, this cele* 
brated edifice, but oyer its desecration let us drop a 
yen. What a deal of mischief well-intentioned ignorant 
people may and do do in this world. The sum of two 
thousand pounds English has been lately raised and 
expended on its restoration. It 's too horrible to talk 
of; the architect deseryes the fiftte of Marsyas. A 
pendent wooden roof of our own Henry VlL's period ; 
the character of the building entirely destroyed. On 
entering the churchyard my eyes first lighted on the 
stone cross erected to the memory of the defunct gjsest* 
giyer, so yainly sought last night. He died some nine 
years ago, and has not since been replaced, speaking 




V' W'^rUj-^' 



Chap. LVI. CHURCH OF H0IERUP. 885 

little for the commercial relations of the capital of 
Elfin Majesty. 

We had just breakfasted and were about to start, 
when in comes our good-humoured hostess to ask would 
we receive the visit of Kamraerherr , the chief gentle- 
man of the town. Of course we are only too happy ; and 
in he is ushered ; is quite shocked to hear of our trouble 
of last night ; has scolded the postmaster for not sending 
OS to lodge with him, it would have given him and 
the Eammerherrinde such pleasure to receive us. She 
expects us to breakfast; we had only just con- 
cluded our own, but of course accepl So we accom- 
pany him to his house, and are kindly received by the 
lady and her daughters, and made to promise and vow 
if BTer we come iEigain to Store Hedinge we will make a 
long abode with them. The carriage is announced, 
and, after thanks and leave-taking, we drive off for 
Stevns £lint» a long ridge of chaJk cliffs of no par- 
ticular beauty or grandeur : but It would have been an 
insult to the island of Zealand had we omitted to see the 
queer old church of H0ierup. Built in very early days — 
tiie fourteenth century — some say by a skipper, others 
by a pirate, a votive offering to heaven in gratitude for 
preservation &om a fearful tempest, he constructed it 
near the klint's edge, to serve as a landmark to those 
at sea. It differs little from the old brick churches of 
this date. While the masons were engaged in building, 
prdbably they disturbed the Trolles, for as fast as they 
commenced it down it came; make the walls stand 
straight they could not Ill-natured people accused 
the architect of not knowing his duty, most wrongftdly, 
for it was all the TroUes. The masons were about to 
re-commenoe their task when they heard a loud deep 

VOL. n. 2 



386 VALL0-^ Chap. LYL 

voice from within the hill ezdaim, ia Swedish, ^ H0ier 
up!" — higher up. They now knew how to act, and, 
following the adyice of the yoicOy built their church on 
the summit of the cliff, calling it H0ierap, and heie 
it stands to the present day : but it would haye toppled 
into the water long ago, ooly on each Christma^-ere 
the angels bear it back the footstep of a cock; 

The TroUes became after a time so mischieTons and 
insupportable in Zealand, that the parsons laid their 
heads together, and, by some method unknown, caught 
them and packed them all off in a boat to their cousins 
of the island of Bomholm, 

VALL0. 

We hasten, as fast as Danish post-horses will cany 
us, to yaU0, the queen of aU Danish conyents, a rigl^ 
royal foundation; foundation of Queen Madalena the 
magnificent, 

"Give me Vall0," asked Queen Madalena of her 
soyereign lord, "and I'll found a chapter tjiere tat 
noble ladies, and we'll hare such a ceremony, and a 
medal strack with your head and mine; a princess 
(Grerman of course) — somebody who ends in ^hausen'--* 
shall be the Abbess, and the ladies shall have as many 
quarterings as Denmark possesses Syssela" Founded it 
was, and a fine ceremony too (see the Danish Vitruyius) ; 
and right royal looked Queen Madalena in lier new 
gown. She didn't find a princess whose name ended in 
"hausen," but something better — ^a princess of the. 
ducal house of Wurtemburg. The convent was opened 
in the year 1738, by the queen in person. An excellent 
foundation it proves to be : a pity we have none 
such in England. Do not fiEUioy these convents have 



Chap. LVL THE QUEEN OP DANISH CONVENTS. 387 

anything papistical about them, nothing at all : quarter- 
ingSy tooy are now no longer required ; gentle birth alone 
is sufficient The Hereditary Princess Caroline of Den- 
mark is Abbess of the Institution, A Danish gentle- 
man, who wishes his daughter to be entered upon the 
list of the ladies, intimates his desire to Count Moltke, 
after the baptism of the infant On paying two thousand 
nx-doUars the name of his child is inscribed upon 
the books of the establishment^ and from that day 
she receiyes a certain annual sum, the interest of the 
money : \ after that it becomes an affair of time. As 
the older ladies die off, the younger ones mount up. Of 
the Dames de yall0, whom we see dancing and waltzing 
about the world in white tarletan, with grand cordon 
and badge of the order, most of them receive from 
about sixty to seyenty pounds ; then later, as they get 
old and high on the list, from one hundred and twenty 
to one hundred and thirty pounds yearly. The prioress 
receiyes an income of about six hundred poimds 
English. If any member dies or marries, she forfeits 
her entrance-money. The ten sisters highest on the 
list haye apartments assigned to them in the conyent : 
they haye, of course, their own priyate room ; but the 
drawing-rooms are lighted up of an eyening, and they 
dine together, enjoy their own parson, own doctor, own 
equipages; a beautiful garden, with greenhouses and 
a deer-park; — ^Uye among their own people. Each 
lady of the first class is obliged to undertake the 
education of some orphan child at her own expense. 
On the whole it is a yery happy institution, and the old 
ladies pass the autunm of their liyes in good fellowship 
and social comfort The ladies of Yall0, too, hold high 
rank in the tables of precedence of women, coming after 

2 2 



688 VALL0. Cbap.LVI. 

oonntesseSy and before the wives of oonnts' eldest 9ca& 
Those of Vemmetofte, however, rank only in flie third 
class, along with the adjutant-generals and justices of 
the West India islands. Of these foundations there exit 
in the kingdom of Denmark, for unmarried ladies of 
birth, some twelve or thirteen, independent of others too 
numerous to mention for widows or maidens of a lower 
rank of life ; man j, iifdeed most, of these have been 
established from the economies of some dowager queen. 

In England such establishments would be scarcely 
possible ; people are too apt to care only for the suffer^ 
ings of the lower classes, forgetful that those who have 
been reared in plenty and luxury are often more to be 
pitied in the time of adversity than those who have 
struggled against want from their youth upwards: 
added to this, there is a tendency with us to debase 
and degrade all our charitiea How few foundations 
can be found in England, after a lapse of years, 
conducted according to the wishes of the feimder! 
Establish an almshouse for the benefit of poor house- 
keepers — ^not people who have possessed houses of 
their own, but the old women who keep the keys and 
lock up the tea and sugar — ^why, before ten years have 
run by it will be swamped by dilapidated charwomen. 
No ; estabUshments of this kind would never be popular 
in England, there would be a radical outcry againsd 
them : here, in Denmark, they are looked up to and 
respected ; and why ? simply because the population 
is not over-abundant, and all classes are here amply 
cared for. 

It is a fine old building, Vall0, flanked by two lofty 
towers, one square, the other roimd; brick, encirded 
with stone medaUions; its fine old gateway, rich in 



Chap. LYJL ^OUSE OF BILLE. 889 

Bandfltone carvings, reminding me much of Yoer Gaard ; 
built it was (as, indeed, was Yemmetofte) by a Bosen- 
krantz, having first belonged to old Ellen Marsviin. On 
the bridge which spans the moat stand massive lions, 
bearing shields emblazoned with their arms. Mette 
Bosenkrantz, wife of Peter Oxe, who built the castle 
— ^a pious and virtuous lady, who, says her epitaph, in 
all affairs combined the mien and gesture of a real cava- 
lier under the garments of a woman* What an awful 
creature she must have been I We visited the interior ; 
the portraits — ^Madalena among the rest, in all her 
glory ; the chapel, where the ladies say their prayers, 
in a sort of peeresses' pew, with the retainers of the es- 
tablishment, — ^a second pew under the pulpit being set 
apart for the deaf ones ; mounted the tower to admire 
the view ; then, having been introduced to the original 
document of the foundation, gorgeously emblasoned, 
drove off on our way. In the parish diurch of yaU0 
hang the pedigrees of the house of Bille, dating fix>m 
the seyenth century. Bille is one of the most ancient 
of the few remaining Danish fiEunilies, though perhaps 
the genealogy may be a little apocryphal Of this 
family was Luda Bille, JOanmarks Blomster, the Flower 
of Denmark — la belle des belles — who lived in 1445 
at the court of the Queen Dorothea, and who, to the 
despair of all young and gallant men, retired to a 
convent and became a nun. The manor of Billesborg 
lies hard by. 

Before arriving at the town of Ki0ge, where we 
stopped to feed and change horses, we passed the village 
of flerf0lge, site of the engagement between Welles* 
ley and Castenskiold in the early part of the present 
century. In the diurch lies interred the last of the 



390 lEDREBOBG. Cbjlp. LTT. 

noble house of Bosensparre, killed in a battle against 
the Swedes in Skaane in 1612. "You are the sde 
Boryiving member of yonr house, the last of an <jd 
stock ; do not expose your life recklessly," adyised his 
friends, when the battle raged at its utmost fuiy* **A 
good name before everything," was the reply. He 
threw himself into the thickest of the fi^t, and fell 
pierced by a hundred wounds. We continued our 
course, and arrived amidst a blaze of starlight at oor 
old quarters of last year — ^hostel of the Frindsen at 
Boeskilde. 

LEDREBORG. 

October 1th. — The dull cathedral town of Boeakilde is 
in a state of unusual excitement, on account of the sitting 
of a rix or rath something — one of the endless innu* 
mcrable assemblies which Denmark has the ill luck to 
be cursed with. The Frindsen is wonderfully smaitened 
up since last year — ^hardly recognisable. Breakfast over, 
we start on an expedition to Ledreborg, the country seat 
of Count Holstein, some five or six miles distant. 

Ledreborg, planted on a height overlooking a deep 
valley, is a fine specimen of the residence of a Danish 
nobleman. In the engravings of Pontoppidan there 
existed a fine old French garden of terraces, statnes, 
and fountains, most in character with the aichitectore 
of the ch&teau. This was unfortunately destroyed some 
thirty years since, and replaced by a jardin Anglais, 
very beautiful in its way« The fEimily were unluckily 
absent ; but we visited the interior of the house, rich 
in pictures and works of art; the gorgeous chapel, 
where hangs a curious picture, a portrait group of the 
early reformers, Luther, Calvin, &a, and among them 



Chap. LVI. COURT ETIQUETTE. 391 

an Englishman named Perkins.* Independent of its 
princely mansion, its banging gardens, and its beeehen 
\?oods, Ledreborg possesses a deep historic interest, for it 
stands on the site of the ancient Leira — stronghold of 
pagan worship in the island of Zealand — rival to Yiborg 
and Sigtnna. 

Even in the days of the first Valdemar it was a city 
of some importance. To the south runs a long ridge of 
sand-hills, called Dan Mikillati's grave. Not fiar distant 
lies the valley of Hertha, stiU called the Holy Wood, 
where once stood the principal temple of that goddess 
in the Danish isles. Here, too. King Bing held his 
oonrt. His wife, Queen Hvita, was a sorceress, and by 
her art changed her stepson. Prince Bj0m, into a bear, 
for which she afterwards suffered a cruel death. The 
etiquette of the Leuran court appears to have been at a 
low ebb ; for we read that, after dinner, the royal party 
pelted one another with the bones they had picked clean 
dturing the repast. 

The town of Leira was founded by King Skiold, son 
of Odin, though other traditions say he was offspring 
of Skeff, the Englishman, fourth son of Noah, bom 
in the ark, concerning whose existence the Books of 
Moses are silent. He arrived in a ship firom afar. 
At this time all Denmark was sad, for the king had no 
son, and the Danes knew not whom they should choose 
as a successor, when one day, as they flocked down to 
the sea-shore, they observed in the distance a sail which 
approached the land : it was evidently a ship royal ; the 
mast was of gold ; it had silken sails, and was laden with 



* He was English envoy from Queen Elizabeth, put in, out of com- 
pliment, together with the deyil and the monka. 



392 , LEDREBORG. Ghap.LVI. 

great riches of gold and silver. Upon the deck of ^ 
vessel lay a beautiful child — a little boy— reposing upon a 
shield, while his head rested upon a sheaf of wheat 
When the people beheld him they cried, ''Behold the 
son of Odin, who comes to be our kingT So they took 
the child, and sowed the com, which came up in plenty, 
each ear bearing more than any ear had before borne in 
this country ; the boy was proclaimed king of Denmark 
When only twelve years old he caught a bear and bound 
it fast in thongs, and at eighteen became king and 
assumed the reins of government. Courageous and 
just wa3 King Skiold : in victory he declared " honour 
is the share of the king, but booty is for the soldiers."* 
Long did he reign over Denmark, and, when an aged 
man and about to die, he caused himself to be placed 
in his old ship by his weeping servants, and, whaen 
the sails were set, the sun shone bright, and the wind 
arose, the ship sailed forth; aU men wept, and no 
one knew where he went to. Such is the legend of 
King Skiold. 



Chap. LVa FIRE OF FBEDEBIKSBORG. 893 



CHAPTER LVII. 

DESTRUCTION OF THE PALACE OF FBEDEBIKSBORG 
BY FIBE. 

December 17th. — OuB wanderings were over; and I 
little thought again to resume my pen to record so 
sad an eyent — a national misfortune to the bistory- 
lonng people of Denmark. 

I was sitting in my room at the Oresund, in Elsinore, 
busily and happily immersed in my books, when the 
chambermaid, bouncing into my room, announced, 
" Slot brander in Frederiksborg ! " — " the castle's on fire I'- 
On crossing oyer to the police-office the telegraphic 
despatch displayed before my eyes left no doubt that the 
story was, alas I too true. Engines — such engines, too— 
squirts, and the members of the fire-brigade, were hur- 
rying off (I say so by courtesy) to lend their aid and 
assistance. In three quarters of an hour's time I 
was myself en route, &st as Danish post-horses and a 
highly-booted postilion could carry ma 

The day was cold, foggy ; the snow lay thick upon the 
ground. We really did rattle on at a good pace ; but 
^e way to me appeared interminable. As we rolled 
along, neyer had my recollection of that admirable 
gallery appeared so yiyid as on that day : each figure 
seemed to start out in chronological order firom its frame 
— siogly and separately, one after the other. As we de- 
scended the hill, from behind the woods to the left> which 
obscure the palace from yiew, rose yolumes of black cloudy 



394 DESTRUCnON OP Chap. LTJL 

smoke, curling and dispersing itself in the misty atmo- 
sphere. Those glorious minaret-like spires, capping the 
castle turrets — ^in yain I strained my eyes — ^they were 
not The gate-house stood before us intact^ and tiien in 
one moment the whole building lay discoTered before 
us, rising from its very bed — roofless, blackened, still 
burning — ^a ruin. It was a sad sight There was the 
council-chamber, which spanned the waters — ^now a 
red Bridge of Sighs — ^gutted; those glorious towers, 
triumphs of the northern Renaissance, were there 
no longer— the last had fallen at eleven o'doek, 
shaking the very earth as it fell ; of Caroline Ma* 
tilda's window, too, not one vestige remaining; the 
fire still rising from time to time, licking away the 
woodwork around the stone-mullioned windows, as 
though it were grease: never was devastation more 
complete. Then, as we passed the gateway, there stood 
the chapel half consumed — ^the riddersaal, that gem of 
art, all fallen in — and, turning into the outer court 
beyond the moat, oh I what a sight it was ! that splendid 
palace — unique in its style in Europe — a tottering^ 
blackened ruin, and all aroimd frozen. The mischief 
was complete — all need of exertion now over; men 
walked up and down sad and astounded The court was 
heaped with frimiture, pictures, and himdreds of objects 
besides, snatched from the ftury of the devouring ele- 
ment ; and what rubbish had been saved ! what pots 
and pans, commodes and chairs, shields of the Elephant, 
shields of the Dannebrog. My first inquiry was after 
the fate of the gallery : all gave a different answer. The 
pictures from the riddersaal had been saved: strange 
fate those portraits — ^they alone escaped the conflagra- 
tion of Christiansborg in 1796. But the billiard-room ? — 



Chap. LVII. FREDERIESBORO PALACE* 395 

All lost Queen Sophia ? — Grone. I bowed my head 
That triumph of portrait-pamting — ^that chef-d'oeuvre of 
Jacob yon Dort I asked no more questions : time would 
show the extent of the eyiL 

In a country like Denmark — ^fallen from its high 
estate among the powers of Europe — ^this calamity will 
be deeply felt ; for they live in the past, in the memory 
of their own glorious history. Still I fear many of the 
Danes really do not know the extent of the loss they have 
sustained — ^not in the castle of Frederiksborg itself —that 
was their pride, their glory — ^but in the splendid historic 
gallery, of which so few pictures will be again seen. 

The fire had burst out early in the morning in the 
room lately restored by the Ung for his own private 
collection— a room on the upper story adjoining the 
tower, towards the riddersewil. The workmen were oocu-» 
pied in repairs. Whether it was a flue— whether a 
misplaced stove— in which the evil originated, matters 
little : the result is the same. The lake was frozen over 
— ^this had added to the difiSculties ; the pipes of the en- 
gines, themselves far too short, were frozen, and could not 
at first be worked ; and the fire, which at five o'clock was 
scarcely looked upon as dangerous, in the space of a few 
hours had reduced this beautiful monument of Chris- 
tian rV.'s taste to its present sad condition. 

Towards three o'clock the royal carriages were ordered 
roxmd to convey the court to CJopenhagen. The king 
had retired to one of the buildings of the outer court 
when all was over, having remained at his post till the 
very last, superintending the removal of the valuables. 
As his Majesty descended the steps on his way to the 
carriage he stayed for one moment to greet me, and, as 



396 DESTRUCnON OF CiUF. LVBL 

I expressed to him my sympathy at the terrible mis- 
fortune which had overwhebned him, he kindly pressed 
my hand. He could only utter the words ^ Quel mal- 
heur irreparable — quel malheur irreparable!" And it 
was so indeed, for Frederiksborg can never be again 
what it once was : it was his pride, his hobby, and he 
had done, by judicious reparation, much to restore it to 
its pristine condition. 

Accompanied by my friend M. Gyllick, the castellan, 
I crept through an outer door into the church, the 
further end of which had alone been injured. The 
organ, that gem of art» and the royal doeet, en- 
riched with its ceiling of ebony and iyory pendants, 
its paintings by the Dutch masters^ were all gone; 
a heap of burning, smoking timbers still' flamed at 
the further end : and when I saw that ceiling, cracking 
from the heat, come falling on the payement below — 
that fretwork ceiling, the toning down of whose brilliant 
colours into one perfect harmony had so often excited 
my admiration and wonder at the superiority of ait in 
days gone by — ^Heaven forgiye me if in my sadn^s 1 
forgot that under those smoking ruins lay buried four 
of my fellow creatures, called unprepared into eternity, 
crushed by the £aJliQg roof whilst in the executioa of 
their duty. 

Before leaving I again sought out my good friend 
Gyllick — ^he who, during the last twenty years, had, aa 
castellan, done m^e towards the restoration of Frede- 
riksborg than any human being alive. ^' I wish yon 
good bye for ever, Gyllick ; I shall never return. I 
have passed too many happy days in that dear old 
gallery, studying the history of Denmark in the por- 



-Chap. LVII. FREDERIKSBORG PALACE. 307 

traits of her rnlers, ever to bear the sight of its 
desolatioiL I have visited Frederiksborg in its glory 
— -I have seen it nnder the excitement of its -flames — 
I can never again look on it as a ruin.** "But," he 
replied, " do not say that : come again in the spring- 
time ; we may again build up the church, and perhaps 
some of your old friends may still be spared to us.** 

As we drove by the castle on our return to Elsinore 
it was already dark, and the whole building shone bright^ 
illuminated by a lurid glowering of its stUl-buming 
flames — a Bembrandt effect of light and shade an artist 
would have gazed at for hours. I turned away my head 
— ^to me it was too painfiiL 

Do not imagine I slept that night : no— I lay tossing on 
my bed ; the spectre of that gallery was for ever before 
my eyes. Good Queen Sophia with her pale blue eyes ; 
Christian lY . with his marlok, and frail Christina Munk ; 
the splendid family of Gyldenl0ves; Adolf of Hol- 
Btein, garter on knee, and his giant race; then, too, 
our house of Stuart — ^Prince Henry, with his trans- 
parent hand and saddened brow ; our Winter Queen — 
first as a joyM girl with her dog, then that exquisite 
picture as a widow, so sad, so' beautiful — ^later again a 
discontented woman; Charles I. or Buckingham — 
which it was, matters but little now; Henrietta of 
Orleans, and Eleanor Ulfeld, both alike unfortunate; 
my Carlyle room, too, where are they ? 

FredmkAorg, Monday. — ^I have again visited Frede- 
riksborg on my way to Copenhagen, for the steamer no 
longer runs, on account of the ice. Professor Worsaae 
was already there, about to catalogue and inspect the 
pictures saved from the flre ; so I remained, to know the 



•398 FIKS OF FR£D£BIESBOBG« Ciiap« LTIL 

worst We stood at the entrance of the building where 
they were stowed away, and saw them brought out one 
by one, battered, singed, but few uninjured. At the first 
glance my mind misgave me ; and when a Gyldenl0Te — 
gallant young son of Christian lY., slain at the siege 
of Copenhagen — ^first came forth, I felt at onoe the 
whole of the earlier portraits of the house of 01denb<»g 
were doomed. Of that splendid series of two hundred 
years and upwards, from Christian I. downwards, not 
one remained — ^portraits by Lucas Cranach, by John of 
Cleves, Carl van Mander, Wuchter, Jacob van Dort: 
of our house of Stuart not one. The Northmen had 
been more fortunate ; but the sole existing portrait of 
Tycho Brahe had perished. Of modern atrocities, copies, 
bad and worthless; of living celebrities, and those 
scarcely dead, there were enough, and mora James IL 
and his brother, in their orange surcoats, came out one 
by one ; but few portraits of any merit. My Carlyle room 
fared better. George IL and his glorious queen, the fair 
Princess of Hesse, and other old acquaintances^ sadly 
bemired ; and when Wilhelmina of Baireuth — ^the witty 
she of the memoirs — appeared, she looked so sprightly, 
so true to Ufe, in her want of feeling, as though she 
thought it such fun being saved from the fire, I could 
have boxed her ears with as great a gusto as her 
plethoric old father ever did in his lifetime. 

Of poor Caroline Matilda one portrait alone es- 
caped, and that the ugly one. Strange fate hers, to be 
always burnt as a beauty and preserved as a fright { 



Chap. LVH. CONCLUSION, 399 



CONCLUSION, 

Palais Sehimmelmanny April 16^A, 1860. — My journal 
is at an end, for to-morrow we leave Copenhagen. I have 
fidthfully transcribed what I have seen, what I have 
visited, and my impressions thereon. My wanderings 
through the kingdom of Denmark have to me been of 
great interest* Still, recollect^ I do not recommend this 
tour to every one. The boy in the Blues — k moustache 
naiBsante — the youth late escaped from college, with 
leave of absence, and a life of hard military duty, or the 
prospect of a country parish before his eyes — ^may far 
better employ his time. Let him stop his two days at 
Copenhagen, fish his way up Norway, shoot it down 
Sweden, quaff the champagne of the " mere Cliquot " 
at Si Petersburg — he'll get it nowhere else — ^buy tur-* 
quoises of the Tartars at Moscow (they'll all turn green 
a week after), on to Constantinople, poke his nose 
in a harem garden and get shot at> or say he did — ten 
to one if he's believed, if its true — and then on, on, 
avoiding all the interstices of travel, seeing what is best 
worth visiting in the world, sowing his wild oats, liberally, 
not wantonly — anything better than a later crop — ^and 
return to his own country and "do his duty in that 
state of life to which it has pleased God to call him«" 
But for those more advanced in life — ^who have been 
everywhere and have done everything — who abominate 
being whirled for pleasure across the fair face of Europe 
by a locomotive — who detest German baths and their 
wickednesses — who, feeling they really know and are 
judges of what is grand and beautiftd in this world, can 
afford, without losing their dignity, to be pleased with 



400 CONCLUSION. QiAP. LTH. 

what is not perhaps first-rate — ^who like to drive throng 
a country^tostadyits history, its customs^ and its legends 
— ^who are content to take people as they find them — 
who prefer dyil and kind treatment, with moderate 
prices, to fawning obseqnionsness and robbery — to sadi 
people I can conscientiously promise much pleasore, 
much interest — especially if in spring-time — ^in their 
travels through the ancient province of Jutland and the 
fertile sea-girt islands of the Danish Archipelaga 



THE END. 



LQKfioar : pristed bt vizxtax cuyvnSB asd aovs, staufobd sixbkz, 

.AKD GHAKIXO CHOfiS. - 



Albemarle Stbebt, Lovdov. 
I><cetnLfr, 1860. 



ME. MURRAY'S 

GENERAL LIST OF WORKS. 



ABBOTTS (ItiT. J.) Philip Musgrave ; or, Memoirs of a Chnreb of 
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ABEBOROMBIE*S (John) Enquiries cozLceming the Izitellectaal 
Powers and the Inveatigation of Truth. FifteaUh EditUm. Fcap.STo. 

PhiloBophj of the Moral Feelings. Tu>eljlh 

JBdHUm. Feap.Syo. At. 

Pathological and Practical Researches on the 



Diseases of the Stomach, Iso. Tfdrd EoUtion. Fcap. 8vo. 6s. 
AOLAKD*S (BsT. Ghablm) Popular Account of the Manners and 
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ADDISON'S WORKS. A New Edition, with a New Life and 
Notes. Bj Key. WmrwUiL Elwut. 4 Vols. Bto. In preparation. 

ADOLPHUS'S (J. L.) Letters from Spain, in 1856 and 1857. 
PostSro. 10t.6d. 

JESCHTLUS. (The Agamemnon and OhoephonB.) Edited, with 
Notes. By Rct. W. Pbilb, D.D. Beeond SdUioH. 2 Vols. 8yo. 9t. 
each. 

JESOPS FABLES. A New Translation. With Historical 
Pre&ce. Bj Rer. Thomas Jakss. With 100 Woodeats, bj Tbxniki. 
and Wolf. iAth Thousand. PostSro. 21.64. 

AGBICULTTJBAL (Thb) Jourhal. Of the Koyal Agricultural 

Bodety of England. Svo. 10«. PubUsKed half-ffearljf. 

AHBEBrWITCH (The). The most interesting Trial for Witch- 
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CURETON (Rev. W.) Remains of a very Ancient Recension of 

the Four Gospels In Sjriae, hitherto unknown In Europe. Discoyered, 

Edited, and Translated. 4to. 24«. 

DARWIN'S (Chables) Journal of Researches into the Natural 
History and Geology of the Countries ylsited during a Voyage round the 
World. Tmth Thoutand. Post 8vo. 9*. 

Origin of Species by Means of Natural Selection; 

or, the Preservation of Favoured Races in the Struggtefor Life. Fi/lh 
Thousand. PostSvo. 14s. 

DAYIS'S (Sib J. F.) China : A General Description of that Empire 
and its Inhabitants, down to 1857. New Edition. Woodcuts. 9 Vols. 
PostSvo. 14s. 

DAVY'S (Sib Hukphbt) Consolations in Travel; or, Last Days 
of a Philosopher. lythEditiom. Woodcuts. Fcap.Svo. Bs. 

Salmonia ; or, Days of Fly Fishing. With some Account 

of the Habits of Fishes belonging to the genus Salmo. Fourth SdUion, 
Woodcuts. Fcap.Svo. Ss. 



10 LIST OF WORKS 



DELEPIERRE'S (Octayb) History of Flemiali literature tnd 
its eel«brAted Authors. From the Twelflh Genturj to tiie pi«MDt Day. 
8ro. 9«. 

DENNIS' (Qbobob) CiiieB and Cemeteries of Strnria. FlateR. 

9 Vols. 8to. 4S*. 
DIXON'S (Hbpworth) Personal Histoiy of Lord Baeon; from 

mipablUfaed Letters aii4 Documents. 8vo, 

DOaBREAKINO; the MoHt Ezpeditioiu, Certain, and Eai^ 
Method, irhether great exeellenee or only mediocrity be- veqnlrad. By 
LisuT.-GoL. UoTCHUiBOV. Third EdUiom, WoodontB. FMtSro. 9«. 

DOMESTIC MODERN COOKERY. Founded on Principle! of 
Economy and Practical Coowledge, and adapted for FziTate FandUaa. 
Ifew Edition. Woodcuts. Feap.STO. 6«. 

DOUGLAS'S (Gbhekal Sib Howard) Treatise on the Theoxy 
and Practice of Gunneiy. Fifth Edition. Plates. 8vo. Sir. 

Treatise on Military Bridges, and the Passages of 

fiiyeiB in MUitary Operattons. Tkurd Edition, PUtes. 8to. 21m. 
Naval Warfare with Steam. Second Edition. 8to. 



Modem Systems of Fortifieation, irith special re- 
ference to the NavaL Littoral, and Internal Defonoo of Rariand Plasb 
8to. 1S«. 

DRAKE'S (Sir Frahois) Life, Yoyages, and Exploits, Vy Sea and 
Land. By Johv Baksow. Third Edition. Post 8¥0. St. 6riL 

DRINKWATER'S (John) Histoiy of the 8i<^ of Gibraltar, 
1779-1788. With a Description and Aeoonnt of that Gazriaoft ftom tte 
Earliest Periods. Po8t8To. 2».9d. ' 

DUDLEY'S (Eabl or) Letters to the late Bishop of Uandaff. 

Second Edition. Portrait. 8vo. 10«.6<i. 

DUFFERIN'S (Lord) Letters from High Latitades, being some 

Aceountof a Yacht Voyage to Iceland, As., in 1868. Ftmrtk SdUim. 
Woodcuts. Post 8iro. 9«. 

DURHAM'S (Adxiral Sib Philip) Naval Life and Serrices. By 

Capt. Alkzandkb HcaaAT. 6vo. 6«. 9d. 
DYER'S (Thomas H.) Life and Letters of John davin. GompDed 

ikom authentic Sources. Portrait 8^0. IBs. 
" New History of Modem Europe, from the taking of 

ConstantlnoplH by the Turks to the close of the War la tte Ciines. 

Vols. 1 1% 2. 8to. Nearly Soady. 

EASTLAEE'S (Sib Charlbs) Italian Schools of Painting. From 
the German of Kuglbr. Edited, with Notes. Third Edition. lUos- 
tr ated from the Old Masters. % Vols. Post 8to. 30t. 

EASTWICK'S (E. B) Handbook for Bombay and Madras, with 
Directions for Travellers, Officers, &e. Map. 9 Vols. pn«t 8to. Mjl 

EBURY'S (Lord) Leaves from my JoumiJ dnring the Summer 

of 1861. Second Edition. Plates. Post8ro. 8«.6iL 

EDWARDS' (W. H.) Voyage up the River Amason, indading a 

Visit to Para. Po8t8iro. 2«.6<2. 
BOERTON'S (HoH. Capt. FRAFas) Journal of a Winter's Tour in 

India; with a Visit to Mepaul. Woodcuts. S Vols. PostSvo. 18s. 
ELDON'S (Lord) Public and Private Life, with Seloetions from 

his Correspondence and Diaries. By Hobaob Twiss. Thord Editkm. 

Portrait. 9 Vols. Post 8to. 21«. 

ELIOT'S (Hoa. W. G. C.) Khans of the Crimea. Being a Ka^ 
ratlve of an Embassy from Frederick the Qreat to the Cooit of Krlm 
Gerai. Translated from the German. PostSvo. Ot. 



PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 11 



ELLIS (RiT.W.) YiaiUi to Hadagtscar, inelading a Jonniey to 
the CaplUl, irltb notices of NAtural Hiatory. and PnMnt GlvllisaUon 
of the People. F\fih TkouKmd. M«p and Woodeuls. 8yo. Ife. 

(Mrs.) Edacation of Character, with HintB on Hoiml 

Training. Boat 870. 7«.6d. 

ELLESMERE'S (Lord) Two Siegea of Yiennaby the Turks. 

Txanslatad fimn the Gennan. Poet Sro. %». 6tf. 
Second Campaign of Radetzkj in Piedmont. 

The Defenee of Temeswar and the Camp of the Ban . From the Oennan. 

PoBtSTO. 6«.<k2. 

Campaign of 1812 in Russia, from the Gennan 



ofOeneral Carl Von Claasewits. Map. 8to. 10«.M. 

■ Pilgrimage, and other Poems. Crown 4to. 24s. 

— Essays on Histoiy, Biography, Geography, and 

Engineering. Sto. 12$. 
ELPHINSTONE*S (Hon. MomrrsiuiiRT) Histoiy of Indlar-tbe 

Hindoo and Mahomedan Feilods. Fonrtk EdUion. With an Index. 

Map. 8vo. 18«. 
EKGLAND (Histobt of) from the Peace of Utrecht to the Peace 

of VersaUlea, 1713-88. By Lord Mahoh. Libnary Sdiiion, 7 Yola. 

Bto. 93*. 

Popuiar Edition, 7 Yols. Post 8vo. 8fa. 

From the First Invasion by the Romans, down to 

the 14th year of Qaeen Victoria's Ketgn. By Mb8. Marxhak. lisa 
SditUm. Woodcats. 12mo. 9i. 

Social, Political, and Industrial, in the 19th Century. 



By W. JoHKSTOif . 2 Vols. PostSro. 18<. 

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RUSSIA. Fifth Thousand. Woodcuts. 

PostSTO. 10«.6iL 
SOTHEN ; or, Traces of Travel brought Home from the East 

A Nwf JUUtiom, Poet 8vo. 7«. 6<L 
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the Polynesian Negro Races. Plates. 8to. 16t. 
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LiTBKABT PAPBas whlch haTo appeared in that JonmaL Sevemth 

Tho mumi . 3 toLs. Feap.dTO. 6t. 
EXETER'S (Bishop of) Letten to the late Charles Butler, on the 

Theological parts of his Book of the Roman Catholic Church; with 

Remarks on certain Works of Dr. Mllner and Dr. Lingard, and on some 

parts of the Evidence of Dr. Doyle. Second Sditum. 8vo. 16s. 
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SditUm. Fcap. 6to. 

FALKKER'S (Fbh).) Muck Manual for the Use of Farmers. A 
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12 LIST OF WORKS 



FANCOUBTS (Col.) History of Yueatan, from its Disoofciy 

to the GIoM of the 17th Century. With Map. 8to. 10*. U. 
FABBAR*S (RiY. A. S.) Science in Theologj. Sermons Preadied 

before the Untvereltj of Oxford. Sro. 9*. 
(F. W.) Origin of Language, based on Modem 

Resesrehes. Fcap. 8vo. 
FEATH£RSTONHAUOH*S (G. W.) Tour through the SUre Stales 

of North America, from the River Potomac to Texas and thariijntlwi 

ef Mexico. Platea. 2 Vols. 8to. Mi. 

FELLOWS' (S» Charlks) Travels and Researches in Asia ICinor, 

more partiailarij in the Prorince of Lydia. KtwEiiHom, Plates. PMt 

8to. 9». 
FRRGUSSON*S (Jjlxbs) Palaces of Nineveh and Petaepolis 

Restored: an Essay on Andent Assyrian and Persian Arehiteotnre. 

WoodcuU. 6to. 16«. 

Handbook of Architecture. Being a Concise 

and Popular Acconnt of the Diilerent Styles preTaiUng in all Ages 
and Conntries In the World. With a Deaeription of the most re- 
markable Buildings. Fourth Tkougand. With 860 Illustrations. 8vo. Kc 

FEBBIEB'S (T. P.) Caravan Journeys in Persia, Afghanistan, 
Herat, Turkistan, and Beloochistan, with Descriptions of Meshed, Balk, 
and Candahar, Ac. Second Edititm. Map. 8yo. 81«. 

History of the Afghans. Map. 8vo. 21». 

FEUBRBACH'S Bemarkable German Crimes and Trials. Tians- 

lated fh>m the German by Lady Duff GoBDOx. 8vo. 12f. 
FISHER'S (Riv. Georqb) Elements of Geometry, for the Use of 

Schools. Fi/lhEdituM. 18mo. 1#. 6d. 

■ First Principles of Algebra, for the Use of Schools. 

F^EHtian. ISmo. U.9d. 

FLOWER GARDEN (Tn). An Essay. By Bxv. Thos. Jamk. 

Reprinted ftom the " Quarterly RcTiew.'* Fcap. Svo. U, 
FORBES' (C. S.) Iceland; its Volcanoes, Geysers, and Glacitts. 

Explored in a Summer Excursion. Illustrations. Post Svo. 
FORD'S (RxcHARi)) Handbook for Spain, Andalusia, Ronda,yalenda, 

Catalonia, Granada, Gallicia, Arragon, Nararre, &c. Third EOHom. 

2 Vols. PostSvo. 30«. 
Gatherings from Spain. Post Svo. 6«. 

FORSTER'S, (Jobh). Arrest of the Five Members by Charles the 
FirsL A Chapter of Englibh History re-written. PostSro. lis. 

Debates on the Grand Remonstrance, 1641. With 

an Introductory Essay on English freedom under the Plaatagenet and 
Tudor Sorereigns. Post Svo. 13«. 

— Oliver Cromwell, Daniel De Foe, Sir Richard Steele, 

Charles Churchill, Samuel Foote. Biographical Essays. Third 
Edition. PostSyo. 12«. 

FORSYTH'S (WiLLiAx) Hortensius, or the Advocate : an Historical 
Essay on the Office and Duties of an Advocate. Post Svo. Itt. 

History of Napoleon at St. Helena. From the 

Letters andJoumalsofSiaHuDSOV Lows. Portrait and Maps. 3 Vols. 
Svo. 469, 

FOETUNE'S (RoBaRT) Narrative of Two Visits to the Tea 
Countries of China, between the years 1848^2, with fUl Descriptioos 
of the Tea Plant. Third Edition. Woodcuts. 2 Vols. Post Svo. 16s. 

• Chinese, Inland, on the Coast, and at Sea* A 

Marrattveofa Third Visit in 1S5S-66. Woodcuts. Svo. ISt. 



PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. IS 



FEAlf CE (HimoRT ov). From the Conquest by the Oanls to the 
Death of LoolB Philippe. B7 Mrs. Mauhak. WthTkaiuand, Wood- 
eats, limo. 6<. 

FRENCH (Thi) in Algien; The Soldier of the Foreign Legion — 
and the Prisonera of Abd-el-Kadir. TraoaUted bv Ladr Duff Gobdoit. 
Post 8yo. i$.ed, 

OALTON'S (Fiuvois) Art of Travel ; or, HinU on the ShifU and 
ContriTaneea available in Wild Countries. Thrd SdUkm, Wood- 
eats. PostSvo. 7b. dd. 

QEOGRAPHICAL (Thi) Journal. Published by the Royal Geo- 
graphioal Sodetj of London. 8to. 

GERMANY (Histobt or). From the Inyasion by Marius, to the 
present time. On the plan of Mrs. Makkhajc. Fi/uenth Tkouaand. Wood- 
cats. 19mo. 8«. 

GIBBON'S (Bdwakd) History of the Decline and Fall of the 

Boman Empire. A New Edition, Preceded by his Autobiography. 

Edited, with Notes, by Dr. Wk. Smith. Maps. 8 Vols. Sro. 60«. 
For Students ; Being an Epitome of the Decline and 

Fall, inoorporating the ReBearches of Keoent Commentators. By Dr. 

Wk. Sjoth. Sixth Thtmuutd, Woodcuts. PostSvo. 7t. 64. 

GIFFARD'S (Edwabd) Deeds of Nayal Daring; or, Anecdotes of 

the British Navy. SVols. Fcap.STO. U, 
GISBORNE'S (Thoills) Eesayg on Agriculture. Third Edition. 

Post 8vo. 
GLADSTONE'S (W. E.) Prayers arranged from the Liturgy for 

Family Use. Steond Edition, 13mo. 2«.6<f. 

GOLDSMITH'S (Olxybb) Works. A New Edition. Printed from 
the last editions revised by the Author. Edited by Pbtbb CuHxiira- 
HAM. Vignettes. 4Vols.8vo. dO». (Marray's BrlUsh Classics.) 

GLEIG'S (Rby. G. R.) Campaigns of the British Army at Wai^iing- 

ton and Mew Orleans. Post 8vo. 8s. M. 
Stoiy of the Battle of Waterloo. Compiled from Public 

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with an Account of the Seizure and Defence of Jellalabad. Post Svo. 2». 6d. 

Life of Robert Lord CliTc. Post Svo. 5*. 

- life and Letters of General Sir Thomas Munro. Post 



8vo. 6«. 

GORDON'S (Sn Aux. Dun) Sketches of German Life, and Scenes 

from the War of Liberation. From the German. PostSvo. 8*. 
(Last Duff) Amber-Witch : the most interesting 

Trial fiir Witchcraft ever known. From the German. Post Svo. 1«. M. 
French in Alters. 1. The Soldier of the Foreign 

Legion. 2. The Prisoners of Abd-el-Kadir. From the French 

PostSvo. 8s. 6d. 

-Remarkable German Crimes and Trials. From the 



Gennan. Svo. 12f. 

GOXJGER'S (Hbhrt) Personal Narrative of Two Tears' Imprison- 
ment in Burmah, 1824-36. Woodcuts. Postdvo. 

GRANT'S (Asahbl) Nestorians, or the Lost Tribes ; containing 
Evidence of their Identity, their Manners, Customs, and Ceremonies ; 
with Sketches of Travel in Ancient Assyria. Armenia, and Mesopotamia ; 
and Illustrations of Scripture Prophecy. Third EdUkn* Fcap Svo. 61. 



14 LIST OF WORKS 



GBBITTILLB (Thb) PAPEBS. Being the PobUc and Ptivste 

CorraspondeDoe of G«org« Gnnville, bis Friefoda and Contompomieip 

daring a period of 30 years. — Inelading his DiAsr of Pouticai. 

Evxirrs while First Lord of the Tressorj. Edited, vith Motw, bj 

W. J. Smith. 4 Vols. 8to. ie». each. 
GBJEEK ORAMMAB FOR SCHOOLS. Abridged from Mattbis. 

Bj the Bishop of Lokdoh. I^inth MdUio»f revised bj Ber. J. Edwabm 

ISmo. St, 

QBETS (SiK GsoRdi) Polynesian Mythology^ and Ancient 

Traditional History of the Neir Zealand Bace. Woodeota. Foil 

8to. 10*. 64. 
GB0TE*3 (GsoRai) History of Greece. From the Eaillert Times 

to the close of the generatlcm oontemporsrv vith the death of Alemadaz 

the Great Third EdUiom. Portrait and Maps. 18 vols. 8to. 16*. each. 
Plato*s Doctrine on the Rotation of the Earth, and 

Aristotle's Comment upon that Doctrine. 870. U. 6d, 
. (Mrs.) Memoir of the Life of the late Ajy Scheffer. 

Second Edition, Portrait. PoetSvo. 7$.6d. 

GU8TAVUS VASA (History of). King of Sweden. With Eztiaeto 

£rom his Correspondence. Portrait. 8to. IDs. 6d. 
HALLAM'S (Hshrt) Constitutional History of England, from the 

Aooesslon of Ueiuy the Seventh to the Death of George the Seoond. 

Seventh Edition. 3 Vols. 8vo. S0». 

History of Europe during the IQddle Ages. 

J^nth Edition, 3 Vols. Svo. 80«. 

Introduction to the Literary History of Europe, during 

the 16th, 17th, and 18th Centuries. Fourth Edition. 8 Vols. 8vo. 36t. 

Literary Essays and Characters Selected from the 

lastirork. Fcap.Svo. te. 

Historical Worka Complete. Containing — History 



of England, — Middle Ages of Europe, — and Literary Histocy of 
Europe. Cabinet Edition. 10 Vols. PostSvo. 6«.each. 

HAMILTON'S (Jakes) Wanderings in Northern Africa, Benghad, 

Gyrene, the Oasis of Siwah, &c Second Edition. Woodcuts. Poet 8to. 12i. 
(Walter) Hindostan, Geographically, Statistically, 

and HistoricaUj. Map. 2 Vols. 4to. 94a. 6d, 
HAMPDEN'S (Bishop) Philosophical Eridence of Christianity, 

or the Credibility obtained to a Scripture Bevelatlon ttom its Coiju 

eidence with the Facts of Nature. 8vo. 9$,6d, 

HARCOUBrS (Edward Yeritov) Sketch of Madeira; with Map 

and Plates. PostSro. Be.Qd, 
HABT'S ABMT LIST. (Quarterly and Annually,) ^ro. 

HATS (J. H. DRUMJcoim) Western Barbaiy, its wild Tribes and 

aavage Animals. PostSvo. i«. 6d. 
HEBEB'S (Bishop) Parish Sermons ; on the Lessons, the Qospd, 

or the Epistle, for every Sunday in the Year, andftnr Week-day Festivals. 

Sixth Edition, 2 Vols. PostSvo. 16«. 

— ^-— — Sermons Preached in England. Second Edition. Sto. ds.6dL 
■ Hymns written and adapted for the Weekly Church 

Servioe of the Year. Ttae^fth Edition. 16mo. 2», 

Poetical Works. Fifth Hdition, Portrait. Fcap. 8to. 

7i.ed. 
Journey through the Upper ProTinces of India, From 

Calcutta to Bombay, with a Journey to Madias and the Soothem Pxo- 

Tineefc Tweljth lEdUion. 2 Vols. Post Svo. 12c. 



PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 15 



HAND-BOOK— TRATEL-TALE. In EngliBfa, German, Fr«ncb, 
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PAINTINGf. The German, Flemish, and Dutch 

Schools. Based on Kcolxb. Edited by Da. Waaosv. Woodeats. 
9 Vole. PoetSvo. 84«. 



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PARIS AMi> ITS Ehtibohs.' Map. Post 8to. (N'eatiy 

SPAIN, Andalnaia, Ronda, Granada, Yalenda^ 



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PORTUGAL, LifiBOK, &c Map. Poat 8to. 9«. 

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ROME Airn its EirviaovB. Map. Post 8vo. 9f. 

SOUTH ITALY, Naples, Pompeii, Hercnlanenmi 



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PAINTING. The Italian Schools. From the German 



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GREECE, Ionian Islands, Albania^ Theasalyi and 
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EGYPT, Thebes, the Nile, Alexandria* Cairo, 



the Pyramids, Mount Sinai, Ao. Map. Post Svo. 16«. 

SYRIA & PALESTINE. Maps. 2 Vols. Poat Svo. 20. 

BOMBAY AND MADRAS. Map. 2 Yds, Poet 

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DENMARK, No&wat and Swdu. Hapa. Poat 



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16 UST OF WORKS 



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18 LIST OF WORKS 



HOK£ AND COLOKIAL LIBRARY. Gompleie in 70 Fftrta. 
Poft8TO^S«.64.eftch,orboa]id in 84 Yolnmtf, oloth. 

OOITBMTS OT THS SBBiB. 

THB BIBLE IN SPAIN. Bj Gbobos Bobbow. 

JOURNALS IN INDIA. Bj BttHor Ubbbb. 

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THE SIEOE OF GIBRALTAR. By Jour DBinwATSB. 

MOROCCO AND THE MOORS. Bj J. DBmoHWD Hat. 

LETTERS FROM THE BALTIC. Bj a Ladt. 

THE AMBER- WITCH. Bj Ladt Dutt Gobdob. 

OLIVER CROMWELL A JOHN BUNTAN. By Bmbt Boumr. 

NEW SOUTH WALES. By MBS. Mbbbditb. 

LIFE OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. By Johv Basbow. 

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PUBLISHED BT MR. MURRAY. 19 



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KlfAFFS (J. A.) English Roots and Ramifications; or, the 
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KUGLER'S Handbook to the History of Painting (Italian Schools)* 
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PooLK. With 600 Woodcuts. SYols. Svo. 4S«. 
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Life of Sir Joshna Reynolds. With an Account 

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PUBLISHED BY MR. MURRAY. 21 



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Disputed Questions of Ancient Geography. Map, 

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Nnmismata Hellenica, and Supplement Completing a 

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Peloponnesiaca : A Supplement to Travels in the Morea. 

8to. 16«. 

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LIYOKIAK TALES. By the Author ci " Leitenr £rast the 
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LOWE'S (Sm Hudson) Letters and Journals, during the CkptlTitj 
of Napoleon at St Helena. Bj Wzlliam Fobstth. Portrait 8 Veliu 
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LUGENOW: A Lady's Diary of the Siege. FavrA Thouaamd. 
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Life of the Right Hon. WUliam Pitt, with Sztrmeto 

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Historical and Critical Essays. \ Post 8to. U. 

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(GbnI" Sib Robert) Secret History of the French 

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Private Diary during his Missions and Employment 

in Spain, Sioily, Turkey, Russis, Poland, Germany, dc 1812.14. 2 
Vols. 8vo. 

WORDSWORTH'S (Riy. Dr.) Journal of a Tour in Athens ind 

Attica. Third EdUum, Plates. PostSvo. 8«.<W. 
— — Pictorial, Descriptive, and Historical Account 

of Greeee^with a History of Greek Art, by G. Schasf, F.8A. Nem 

BdUion. With 000 Woodcuts. Royal Svo. S8«. 
WORNUM (Ralph). A Biographical Dictionary of Italian Painters : 

with a Table of the Contemporary Schools of Italy. By a Lady. 

PostSvo. 6t.6(f. 

Epochs of Painting Characterised ; a Sketch 

of the History of Painting, showing its gradual and Tsrions dcTelop. 
ment from the earliest ages to the present time. New SdUicm, Wood- 
cuts. Post 8ro. 6s. 

WROTTESLET'S (Lord) Thoughts on Goremment and Legislation. 

PostSvo. 7i.ed, 
y OUNG'S (Dr. Thos.) Life and Miscellaneous Works.edited by Dsai 

Pbaoook and Jour Lbitch. Portrait and Plates. 4 Vols. 8vo. Us.each. 



SBASsvat An btass. raisnas, wanavaTAas. 



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MAY 2 3 1947