The Alaska Highway connects Dawson Creek in BC to Anchorage in Alaska. From the apocalyptic scenes of southern BC’s gas fields to Yukon’s stunning unspoilt scenery, 1850kms of the 2500kms are actually in Canada. Towns, if one can call them that, are few and far between. In between these outposts, you will be captivated by the wildlife, mesmerised by the landscape and haunted by the action of the melting permafrost right below your wheels. Check out the highlights of our Alaska Highway road trip and follow the links for more detailed information.
Brief history of the Alaska Highway
Built as a response to WW2 military activity in 1942, the 2500kms of the Alaska Highway was completed in just eight and a half months. Building the road required stamina and perseverance. The conditions, be it mosquitoes or temperatures to -40°C was not for the faint hearted. The road also brought its challenges in the social, economic and cultural changes that it wrought particularly in relation to the indigenous communities. The many injustices are only now, very slowly being addressed.
Dawson Creek (Mile 0) to Fort Nelson (453kms)
This section of the Alaska Highway is unremarkable. Vast, huge and undramatic, it appears the next Klondike gas rush has begun here. The Kiskatinaw curved wooden bridge, built in 1942, is the only site of any significance on this section. The site is just 20kms from Dawson Creek and is navigable. The Alaska highway here is busy with massive machines, RVs and trucks. By the time we had reached Fort Nelson we had spotted a couple of black bears grazing on the roadside. There is a distinct stench of gas in the air and we were keen to move on.
Fort Nelson to Muncho Lake (692kms)
It was raining as we drove north, with low cloud. We caught snatches of snowy topped mountains and passed large areas of scree used to manage glacial runoff. Muncho Lake was the first interesting wilderness area on the route. Muncho means ‘big lake’ in the Kaska indigenous language.At 12kms long, it is one of the larger natural lakes in the Canadian Rockies. The green colour of the lake is caused by light reflecting off the powder fragments of rock that are suspended in the waters. Despite the cloudy skies the waters were beautiful.
This is also an area rich in wildlife. Velvet antlered moose roamed with their young and black bears fed undisturbed on the roadside. The lakes waters were buzzing with ducks and other birdlife too. There is a provincial campsite here right on the lake with staggering views.
Liard hot springs (758kms)
In a verdant Spruce boreal forest is a natural hot spring. A boarded walk leads to the steaming waters. The area is surrounded by trails for those interested in hiking and camping albeit somewhat overcrowded. However, there is bear activity here, so caution is required. Current costs can be obtained by visiting their website.
Bison viewing between Liard springs and Watson lake
Some of the best bison viewing that we encountered was on the road between Liard Springs and Watson Lake. Herds of bison frequent the roadside, disturbed by the mosquitoes and midges as much as we were. There were also many lone males mostly docile-looking but at times aggressive for no apparent reason. The highway was surprisingly quiet allowing us time to linger with the bison. In addition, wildlife was beginning to become plentiful with many sightings of black bear and moose too. The Alaska Highway follows the Liard river to Watson Lake, Yukon, where it takes a name change from Route 97 to Route 1.
Stewart Cassiar highway side trip (966kms)
Highway 37 was one of our highlights while touring British Columbia and Yukon. Consider accessing the Alaska highway, near Watson Lake, Yukon on this road. Indeed, if it is unspoilt landscapes, glacier filled valleys, plentiful wildlife and indigenous history you are after, one couldn’t do better. Our only regret was that we were time limited. For more information check out our Stewart Cassiar highway blog.
Johnson’s Crossing (1227kms)
Highway 1 briefly re-enters BC before reaching Teslin Lake and skirting the lake on the eastern side. At the northern end of the lake is Johnson’s Crossing where the Alaska highway crosses the Teslin river. This is a landscape of glistening lakes. A little further on is Jakes Corner and Marsh lake. This lake is one source of the mighty Yukon river. Johnson’s crossing is little more than a fuel stop. However, there is a small museum with taxidermy exhibits of some of the common animals in the region.
Carcross
Near Jakes Corner take highway 8 to Tagish and Carcross. Continue onto Skagway and Haines to complete a superb circular road trip to Haines Junction and Whitehorse. To do so, the road crosses into the USA near Skagway. An hour long ferry journey is also required to complete this circuit. Alaska ferries is the company that runs the ferry service. This was undoubtedly one of our favourite side trips. The fabulous White Pass & Yukon train line also departs from Carcross to Skagway. Unfortunately we did not have time to take the trip, giving us reason to return. If time is limited return to the Alaska highway along the South Klondike highway. From here it is a short distance to Whitehorse.
Whitehorse, Capital of the Yukon (1404kms)
Whitehorse by far is the largest town with all modern amenities in this mega wilderness. More importantly, there is a great Visitor Centre here with friendly staff and lots of great local information on accommodation, outdoor activities and indigenous history. The Yukon College also provides interesting courses on subarctic archaeology and Ethnography should you find it difficult to leave!
Near Whitehorse, the road leaves the Yukon river behind heading West. It now follows the Takihini river, a tributary of the Yukon river, near the junction to the Klondike highway-2 to Dawson city.
Haines Junction (1558kms)
This is in the heart of the Champagne and Aishihik first nation territory and is the closest town to the stunning Kluane National Park. It is also the start of the Haines Highway 3 to Haines, taking you into the heart of snow-covered mountains before crossing the USA border into Alaska. This is yet another stunning road trip and comes highly recommended.
The Kluane landscape, some of the best on the Alaska Highway
The road heads northwest skirting Kluane National park home to the largest non-polar icefields. The glacier fed Kluane Lake, a Southern Tutchone name, is the largest in Yukon and means ‘Big Whitefish Lake’. These are the hunting grounds for many of the indigenous communities of the region.
The Tachal Dhal Visitor Centre
Located on the shores of Kluane Lake and Sheep Mountain is a welcome information point on the Dall sheep. This is the Silver City, Tachal Dhal Visitor Centre. These sheep have a perilous existence and protection of their environment is essential. There are superb treks from here to the glaciers taking a few days. Today there was also information on a wounded grizzly and cub.
Destruction Bay (1664kms)
This the next little outpost along the Alaska highway. It has a great museum – ‘Kluane Museum of Natural History’, with taxidermy examples of virtually every Yukon animal. It is well worth a stop to have a chat with the knowledgeable curator who lives locally.
Burwash Landing(1681km)
This trading post was established in 1904 and is the next outpost along the Alaska Highway.
Ecology of the Permafrost
The roads north of Whitehorse in the Yukon are all affected by changes to the permafrost. The Alaska Highway is no exception and we experience it by sudden dipping of sections of the road. Another visible sign of the permafrost thawing are the telegraph poles along the side of the highway. Many of these are no longer upright. This requires frequent maintenance and there is now considerable research around Beaver Creek as to the best methods for achieving this.
The border town of Beaver Creek (Mile 1848)
Finally, we reached Beaver Creek. This is the last post on the Canada side before the Alaska highway crosses into the USA. Follow our road trip on the Taylor highway and Top of the World highway to Dawson City and the heart of the Klondike gold craze.
Nangle angle
This road is better driven in a northerly direction. Better still access the Alaska highway from the junction of the Cassiar Stewart highway 37 and the Alaska highway at Watson Lake.
Nangle facts & tips
Accommodation – this is few and far between. This is a reason most people drive an RV on this route.
Grizzly and black bears roam the area. If you intend hiking, follow the rules and carry bear spray with you.
This road trip was carbon offset in our grove with Trees for Life.
