Inside Vienna’s Stunning Christmas Markets

If you’re planning a trip to Vienna during the holiday season, you’ll want to harness a mix of spontaneity and intentionality. Book a room at one of two locally-owned properties: Hotel Altstadt Vienna or Hotel Sacher Wien. Hotel Alstadt is unfailingly eclectic and deeply hospitable with designer digs laid out in a hotel that shares an entranceway with Viennese neighbors in the seventh district. Hotel Sacher, meanwhile, maintains the imperial grandeur of the former Austro-Hungarian empire at the city’s most prestigious address. Both hotels boast significant art collections, although with remarkably different looks at Viennese culture: one is an ode to its Imperial past, the other a testament to its more recent renaissance.

No matter your chosen perch, dress in layers and take to the markets. Vienna includes over 20 formal Christmas markets, although I can’t imagine trying to count all of the congenial punch stands or tiny booths tucked into alleyways. One day, I stumbled on a small group of stalls in a courtyard managed by a small church. I ate potatoes, which had been cooked over an open fire by a kind older gentleman, while I browsed homemade crafts made by the parishioners.

Do as the Viennese do and head to these markets in the early evening when the lights turn on and the day quiets down. Although I loved wandering through all the markets while glowing with the warmth of Glühwein (mulled wine), these were my favorites:

Vienna Christmas World on Rathausplatz

Rathausplatz is home to Vienna’s most famous Christmas market: an elaborate winter wonderland that sprawls in front of the dramatic, neo-Gothic city hall. More than 150 Christmas booths welcome you to an extravaganza of flair and spirit.

Vienna’s biggest Christmas tree stands majestically in front of the city hall, although it may not be the most popular. Make sure to walk over to the famous Herzerlbaum, too. This other Christmas tree is a giant maple adorned with 200 glowing hearts. In 2018, the city brought back the Herzerlbaum decorations after facing backlash in their decision to opt out of the beloved heart display.

For more romance, skate through two ice rinks joined by connecting ice paths under lit trees. (If you’re like me, and your ankles buckle in skates, opt for the ice curling instead.) There’s also a carousel and an old-school Ferris wheel for kids of all ages, which elevates this market to a festival worthy of a fictional North Pole.

Art Advent: Art & Crafts on Karlsplatz

Every year, Art Advent springs up like a Spruce outside the Baroque Karlskirche (St. Charles Church). This arts and crafts market features the highest-quality gifts and goods. There’s a rigorous selection process, and only artisans selling their own products can participate. All of their food meets organic standards—there are even vegan options here, which is notable in the city of schnitzel.

Artsy and diverse, the stalls circle a hay-filled area reminiscent of a manger, complete with farm animals. This is the market to buy local honey and handmade gifts, or even enjoy dinner (opt for a sausage or spaetzle). For the full experience, plan your visit around a concert in the magnificent church or a live performance outside on the main stage. The market hosts a wide range of acts from traditional Austrian music to up-and-coming pop stars, where you can watch with an apple punch in hand.

Old Viennese Christmas Market Freyung and the Am Hof Christmas Market

Freyung and Am Hof are separate markets in neighboring squares. If you visit one, make sure to pop over to the other. Freyung’s “Old Viennese” market dates back to 1772, and you can feel the history in this triangular public square—see if you can spot the 13th-century medieval cobblestone in front of the Ferstel palace.

Because Freyung is home to a year-round organic farmers market, there’s also a notable authenticity to the picturesque setting. Local retirees pick up sausages, cheese, and Austrian wine in the same streets where you can wonder at the 19th-century fountain. A painted nativity scene based on Josef Ritter von Führich’s painting stretches along the back of the Christmas stalls, which brings an extra pop of color. The Am Hof market boasts its own Christmas Bock beer (reason enough for a visit), which you can enjoy surrounded by lit Christmas trees.

Christmas Market on Spittelberg

While some of the markets dominate grand squares, Spittelberg’s market lines quaint cobblestone lanes between historic Biedermeier townhouses. This petite district, centered around the narrow pedestrian streets Spittelberggasse and Gutenberggasse, is slightly off the tourist track at the Western edge of the historic center.

I see young couples leaning toward each other over punch, beautiful Italian Christmas sweaters for sale, handmade gingerbread cookies (yes, please!), and independent boutiques for browsing. Children play in a pedestrian square, and it feels like a neighborhood market for the hip seventh district rather than a city hotspot.

Christmas Village at Belvedere Palace

You can take the tram or take a brisk walk out to the expansive park that’s home to a “Christmas Village.” The Belvedere in Vienna includes one museum with three separate locations across two Baroque palaces (and outbuildings) and five gardens—all of which collectively compose a UNESCO World Heritage site.

In the shadow of the Upper Belvedere, a Baroque palace of epic proportions, 40 festive stalls sell crafts and sweet treats. Look for the stand of snow globes for authentic stocking stuffers; the ones with black, two-tier rounded bases are made in Austria. Most importantly, though, book timed entrances to the museum’s three locations, and munch on snacks in between at the market.