#2/2017
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Daniel Grieder „The Formula for the Future: Surprise per Square Metre.“
20 th year # 2.2017
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Focus on Family Businesses An Indispensable Backbone in Times of Economic Breathlessness Years of Travel A Bit of Distance Can Help at Times Friction Creates Energy Generational Change in the Retail Industry is Both Challenge and Opportunity 50 Years Marc O’Polo 50 Questions for Werner Böck
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006 EDITORIAL
To Be Continued Welcome to these lines. Which challenges await our industry? Nobody - and we mean literally nobody - in the business remains unmoved by this question. This topic takes on a new dimension when it involves succession solutions. When one generation hands the sceptre to the next, it obviously prefers to do so in the clear knowledge that its life’s work is heading for a bright, secure future. But what does future actually mean in our industry, especially in connection with the term “secure”? The fact that both the old and new generations are racking their respective brains about this is reflected in all facets in this issue’s main focus. We have young people who are skilful at unearthing new potential in their parents’ heritage (The New Spin, from page 106). Then there are Italian families that discard many of their country’s clichés to become more international (Famiglia Moderna, from page 116). There are also successors who decided to see the world before returning to the family business (Years of Travel, from page 130). Let’s not forget the smart people who realise that a successful handover requires external guidance (The Guides, from page 136). Last but not least, there are those who know that an end is always a new beginning ([Un]Succession, from page 142). Daniel Grieder, the CEO of Tommy Hilfiger, may not have a crystal ball, but he is actively shaping the future nonetheless. The fashion expert from Switzerland has identified three key words: digitalisation, speed, and innovation. It was a long journey from the weather report on TV to the digital showroom, but he enjoyed every step of the way. He also clearly enjoyed his little chat with Stephan Huber, which was actually an exchange between old companions. No harm in a little nostalgia, is there now? (Digitalisation Makes Stores Exciting Again, from page 078). Who do we think the world of - both from the past and the future? For example, we adore George Gina & Lucy, a brand that is regaining momentum (Braids Off, from page 153). The same applies to Alpha Tauri, a highly exciting project by Red Bull (Supernova, from page 154). We also believe in the many newcomers that feature in our “Want It!” section (from page 058). These hand-picked examples all have a very promising future. Enjoy your read! Your style in progress team.
Cover photo: Tommy Hilfiger
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woolrich.eu
008 CONTENT
006 EDITORIAL To Be Continued
014 RIGHT NOW 058 WANT IT
THE LONGVIEW 078 “Digitalisation Makes Stores Exciting Again” Find out what rowing and the weather channel have in common with fashion: Tommy Hilfiger CEO Daniel Grieder talks to Stephan Huber
WHAT’S THE STORY 078
090 Succession 090 The Backbone of Society 50 percent of the economic output and 60 percent of the jobs; why family businesses are so essential 092 The Successors There are many generation changes among fashion retailers; our interviewees reveal how they can be successful 104 Many Balls in the Air A familial company and role model: Weitkamp and Modehaus Schnitzler 106 A New Twist New generation, new impulses - the influence of the young on economic activity 108 American Icon Schott N.Y.C. is a textbook family business 109 Healthy Paranoia for the Future Sacha Rose represents the third generation at Derek Rose - he rejuvenated pyjamas 110 “Boys, What’s Your Plan?” Hannes and Markus Meindl on the self-image of a family business 112 The Third Sibling FTC’s fair trade cashmere success formula: 2 x JK + 2 x AK
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113 Function with Style An unknown down specialist transforms into a chic outdoor jacket brand 114 “Don’t Do What Others Do - That’s Worthless” Kaspar Frauenschuh is preparing to hand over to the next generation 115 Individualism Required Specialisation and lifeblood: Phil Petter 116 Famiglia Moderna From one generation to the next - the Italian idyll now has a modern drive 118 “A Unique Opportunity for Us and the Family” Andrea Canè, the creative director at Woolrich, on the merger with WP Lavori and the Rich dynasty 122 “There is no Alternative to Internationalisation” At Antonelli and Tortona 21 two generations have two different approaches - and both are right 124 “We Are a Manufactory, Not a War Machine” Xacus’ Paolo Xoccato on the risk of launching a women’s collection after 60 years in the men’s shirt business 126 “Quick Decisions and Solid Roots” Giovanna Furlanetto has transformed her father’s life’s work into an international conglomerate
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128 “Product and Quality Remain at the Core” Wanny di Filippo has sold his brand Il Bisonte to a private equity house, but the company remains a family
010 CONTENT
130 Years of Travel Gaining experience elsewhere before returning to the family business works 132 “If You Can Build on Values, You Can Achieve a Lot” Matthias Mey has given his family business new impulses 133 Truffles and After-Work Pints Clemens Sagmeister knows how to benefit from larger corporate systems 134 Effortlessly Down-to-Earth The Wirschke brothers, Clemens and Constantin, on the importance of soft skills 136 The Guides It’s never a bad idea to bring in a coach for succession plans 138 “At a Certain Point It Must Become Clear Who’s in Charge” What Norbert Pühringer of Team Retail Excellence can teach managers of family businesses
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139 “Succession Needs Room for New Approaches” Claudia Engel-Hutner is convinced that the young generation needs fresh ideas 140 “The Best Idea Wins” Mein Fischer’s succession plan was flawless due to external assistance 142 [Un]Succession Not every company has a successor within the family - stories about new beginnings 144 “I Need a Change” Klaudia Burger says goodbye to Slips - she has her reasons 145 “An Interesting Heritage” A start-up acquires a tradition-steeped rival - Offermann proves that it works 146 “I Need an Emotional Connection” Wilfrid Wetzl has taken over two traditional Austrian fashion retailers: Casa Moda and Knilli 148 “I Love Change” 50 questions to honour a 50th anniversary: word-rap with Marc O’Polo’s Werner Böck 150 See the Sea Ricardo Ricci truly loves surfing, especially on the wave of success of his collection RRD
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151 The Alps for the World Onwards and upwards - Luis Trenker is on a growth hike 152 Performance-Driven Style The New Zealand-based label Alchemy Equipment makes functionality desirable 153 Braids Off George Gina & Lucy undergoes a radical transformation 154 Supernova The birth of a new star at Red Bull: Alpha Tauri strives to break with traditions
FASHION 156 Take it Easy. The trends of spring/summer 2018
IN STORE 170 172 174 176 178
Reap What We Sow. Wardrobe 19/Copenhagen Place of Interest. Icon/Salzburg Westside Story. Magasin/Los Angeles Open for New Things. Keller-Warth/Biberach The iTunes for Sophisticated Fashion Fans. Garmentory/Online
180 EDITOR’S LETTER We Can Do This! 172
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180 ABOUT US
www.sportalm.at / shop.sportalm.at
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Woolrich John Rich & Bros
New Footwear Line
International success - Furla Group generated growth across all sales channels and recorded a huge surplus in 2016.
As of autumn/winter 2017, Woolrich John Rich & Bros has its own footwear range. The collection, which is manufactured in China and Italy, consists of approximately 20 models for women and 25 models for men. All models feature a lightweight and comfortable Vibram sole developed exclusively for Woolrich with the iconic Woolrich check pattern incorporated into the sole’s profile. In addition to outdoor-inspired boots and boots in mountaineering and hiking looks, the range includes a string of leather sneakers based on classic running and tennis shoes, as well as traditional Chelsea boots and loafers in a sophisticated urban look. Despite their robust appearances, all models are equipped with state-of-the-art technologies in terms of manufacturing processes and wearing comfort. A limited capsule collection offers models made of wool crafted by the legendary Woolrich Mill in the US; this particular line is subject to a highly selective distribution strategy. The retail prices range from 180 to 250 Euros for sneakers and 200 to 280 Euros for leather shoes. A particularly elaborate mountain boot can set one back 500 Euros. www.woolrich.com
Step by step: Woolrich presents its first footwear range.
Furla
Plus 24.5 Percent
Even in these difficult times, Furla Group predicts very positive results for 2016. The company expects its 2016 revenue to reach 422 million Euros. At current exchange rates, this corresponds to 24.5% growth year-on-year. At constant exchange rates, it corresponds to 22% growth. In terms of EBITDA, Furla Group generated almost twice as much growth than in the previous year (+48% compared to 2015). This proves that the company is not only capable of revenue growth, but also earnings growth. The group believes its growth - across all distribution channels - was caused by the “increasing appreciation for the brand and its collections among international consumers”. However, nothing comes from nothing. Furla has invested heavily in marketing and its steadily expanding distribution network. The number of mono-brand stores has increased from 415 in 2014 to 444; the proportion of self-operated and franchised stores is more or less 50:50. The list of customers includes more than 1,200 multi-brand and department stores. The group intends to remain true to its expansion strategy in 2017 with planned store openings in Amsterdam, China, Australia, Germany, and the UK. Despite all of its success and growth, Furla’s main focus remains on its employees. The group pursues an active procurement strategy in terms of young talents and has strengthened its international management team. In 2016, Furla launched the “Furla For You” project for its 1,669 employees. This international programme offers special incentives and services. It was developed specifically to suit the different needs of employees and addresses the various lifestyles, cultures, and habits in the many countries where Furla employees live and work. “We are very proud of the results we achieved in 2016. Thanks to the investment of our shareholders and our ongoing efforts in terms of research and innovation - as well as distribution we are among the leading companies in the most important international markets. What sets our company apart from others is our ability to meet the needs of consumers around the globe and our desire to recognise and award the achievements of our team, which generates growth every year”, says Alberto Camerlengo, the general manager.
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J Brand
Like Botticelli’s Venus
J Brand has teamed up with Bella Freud to create a capsule collection for autumn 2017.
J Brand has decided to team up with Bella Freud, a London-based designer, for a capsule collection for autumn 2017. The 25-piece collection focuses on ten iconic looks in numerous denim styles, including a Low Rise Relaxed Straight Leg model and a High Waisted Tailored Wide-Leg model. It is complemented by a sports jacket, a skirt, and a jumpsuit in mid to dark indigo and black denim. “A girl wearing a cool pair of jeans is like Botticelli’s Venus”, Bella Freud says. “One never gets tired of looking at it. I am delighted to be working with the Kings of Denim to create new, desirable, and sexy looks.” The collection will be made available to consumers worldwide from the 25th of July onwards. In the past, J Brand collaborated with Simone Rocha, the New York-based duo Proenza Schouler, and Christopher Kane of London. In Germany, J Brand is represented by Brama in showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf. The sales agency also has outposts in Copenhagen, Paris, Antwerp, London, Madrid, and Milan. www.jbrandjeans.com www.bellafreud.com
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Floris van Bommel
Store Opening in Antwerp
The retail expansion continues. In Antwerp’s “Huidevetterstraat”, Floris van Bommel recently opened its latest self-managed store. The premises, with a spectacular room height of six metres, offer a perfect backdrop for the label’s collection. The fashionable brand of the Van Bommel family business, which was founded in 1734, has promoted its European expansion in recent years. In addition to its own stores, the brand has also intensified its cooperation with other footwear and multi-label retailers. Floris van Bommel, which still manufactures its products in the Dutch town of Moergestel, highlights its long tradition as a shoe manufacturer with a special feature: a 20 metre long family tree that immortalises the nine generations of the dynasty with copper footsteps. Following the example set in Hamburg, the opening of the 120 square metre store in Antwerp was celebrated with the so-called “Skyline Shoe”. The hand-dyed shoes - sewn in the “Blake” style - depict the skyline of Antwerp on the heel section. In addition, the cap boasts special stitched details that underline the craftsmanship of the manufacturer. www.florisvanbommel.com
New in Antwerp - a Floris van Bommel mono-brand store.
Alpha Studio
Innovation and Customer Care
Alberto
Alexa? Alexa!
Alexa, how do these pants look on me? This is probably the only question to remain unanswered in Alberto’s store in Mönchen gladbach. However, Amazon’s voice-controlled interaction system, which was recently installed in the Alberto store, is well-equipped to answer all other questions concerning the brand and its range. On first glance, it may be surprising to see Alberto relying on Amazon technology. Alexa is very convincing. The
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The first step is made: Amazon’s smart technology software, Alexa, answers customer questions in Alberto’s store.
smart technology hidden in Amazon’s Echo loudspeaker system will soon be applied to further areas. The brand from Mönchengladbach can envisage sending Alexa to the points-of-sale of retail partners and showrooms. After all, interacting with groundbreaking technology is not only exciting for nerds. www.alberto.com
The collection by Alpha Studio of Italy is sophisticated, urban, and timeless.
Classic, timeless, and always with a touch of avant-garde - Alpha Studio presents fashionable innovations for the spring/summer season 2018. One example is women’s knitwear made of extra-fine merino, a very thin high-quality yarn. Another is a new extra-fine 3/80 merino yarn that looks very similar to cashmere. For knitted sweaters, the label developed a special material consisting of combed and boiled Supergeelong wool. There is also a limited edition including floral Jacquard patterns and textures with a Bohemian touch that resemble wallpapers, as well as bi-colours, sporty stripes, and luxurious oversize styles. Alpha Studio’s menswear collection offers knitwear in a wide range of colours, for example slim-fit models, heavy knitwear with multi-colour Jacquards in 3D look, and mix-and-match materials. Alpha Studio’s highly innovative collection is no coincidence. After all, Franco Rossi SRL of Florence stands for 30 years of knitwear competence. The company also offers a comprehensive just-intime stock programme. Munich-based D-tails is the brand’s fashion agency in the German, Austrian, and Swiss markets. www.francorossi.it, www.d-tails.de
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Only in Berlin: the Superga shoes created in collaboration with Gosha Rubchinskiy are only available in the German capital.
Superga
Collaboration with Gosha Rubchinskiy
Superga, an Italian footwear label, recently presented its latest collaboration with Gosha Rubchinskiy, a Russian designer, photographer, and videographer. In the fashion world, Rubchinskiy, who launched his own men’s fashion line in 2008, is best known for his collaborations with Comme des Garçons. To celebrate the launch of the Superga Sports line, Gosha and Superga created two sneaker models for men - a low and a half-high variant. The models are adorned with an all-over embroidery sporting the designer’s name and a leather appliqué with the typical Superga swallow tail. The lining and the inner sole also boast Gosha Rubchinskiy’s logo. The two sneaker models are available exclusively at the two Berlin-based Comme des Garçons store, Black and Pocket, from now until the end of September 2017. www.superga.com
Stetson Europe
Hand On It!
The headwear specialists of Stetson Europe have expanded the brand’s collection by adding leather gloves to its accessories portfolio. The range consists of more than 20 models - both lined and unlined. The models, which are manufactured by experienced glove specialists, are made of durable goatskin, soft deer leather, super-soft lambskin, exclusive Peccary leather sourced from South American wild boars, and - for the entry price level - pigskin. The gloves are combined with materials such as denim, pure new wool, and a wool/polyester blend. To ensure that there’s no lack of style factor, the wool blend models can be matched up with tone-in-tone Hatteras caps made of the same material. The retail prices range from 49 to 129 Euros; the gloves are available in sizes S to XXL. Fans of the brand can also rejoice at the latest Stetson raffle. Until the 16th of July, one has an opportunity to win a five-day city trip to New York. In addition to the flight and accommodation for two, the prize includes an extraordinary tour through Manhattan with the artists of the Audubon Mural Project, a graffiti project devoted to protecting local birds. www.stetson-europe.com
American Vintage
Taking Over Switzerland
American Vintage offers casual and flexible order sessions without minimum orders and lot-acceptance.
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Germany-based American Vintage GmbH is now also responsible for the brand’s customers in Switzerland. The distribution in that particular country has been handled by an external distributor for the last 11 years. “In May, we will open a new American Vintage showroom in Zurich’s TMC Fashion Square. In the 150 square metre premises, we will serve our 40 Swiss customers in three languages. As happened in Germany one and a half years ago and most recently in Austria, we will adapt the prices and order rhythms to the calculation and structures of our headquarters in France. As a ready-to-wear brand, it is essential that we take care of customers ourselves, because we require direct contact with the purchasing departments. Depending on the store concept, re-orders contribute between 30 and 50 percent to our revenue; subsequent deliveries usually reach our customers within a week. The success of American Vintage - with a consistent double-digit stock turnover and sales quotas between 65 and 75 percent before price reductions - is based on strong customer relations”, says Michael Azoulay, CEO of American Vintage. Over the next two years, the brand strives to double the number of Swiss retailers to 80. In addition to plans to open 30 new stores worldwide (among others in Berlin-Mitte and Stuttgart), the brand strives to open its own store in Geneva as part of its retail expansion plans for the summer. www.americanvintage-store.com
The hand protectors by Stetson satisfy the highest standards in terms of quality and fit.
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Santoni X Duvetica
Two in One
The sneakers are equipped with elastic nylon elements that can be exchanged utilising zips.
Santoni, a traditional shoemaker, and Duvetica, a down jacket specialist, have teamed up for a co-branding project involving a capsule line of sneakers consisting of six models for women and men made of black or white nappa leather. The two Italian brands want this collection to highlight their passion for pristine production techniques and innovative designs. As pioneers in their respective fields, Giuseppe Santoni, the CEO of Santoni, and Stefani Rovoletto, a co-founder of Duvetica, strive to create a product that combines innovative craftsmanship, modern design, attention to detail, tradition, and high-end materials. The characteristic strengths of Duvetica in terms of innovative technical zip solutions - in combination with nylon - serve as a cornerstone of the new sneaker concept. Santoni drew from these strengths during the implementation of the production process. The collection is distributed via the Duvetica sales network in Italy, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Great Britain, Eastern Europe, the Middle East, South Korea, and Japan. It will be available in selected multi-brand stores. www.duvetica.com
The Raf Simons gloves from 2007 are one of 99 collector’s items on auction.
Breuninger x Kunstsammlung NRW
Art x Fashion
At the beginning of April, Peter Kogler - a Viennese multimedia artist - teamed up with the art experts of “Kunstsammlung NRW” to transform a shop window of the Breuninger branch in Düsseldorf’s old town into a illusionistic labyrinth for 15 days. The installation marked the opening of Kogler’s exhibition at K21, which runs until October 2017. The entire shop window area was lined with interlaced “pipes”, thus creating a mesmerising pattern. In addition, Linnéa Schwarz and Sara Chaparro, two Munich-based artists, staged a striking live performance. Their contribution helped Kogler add a new dimension with an interactive aspect to his art concept. “Kunstsammlung NRW”, which is based in Düsseldorf, enjoys an outstanding reputation on an international level, especially for its masterpieces of classical modernism and its works by the likes of Picasso, Matisse, and Warhol. The most important piece of Kogler’s exhibition at K21 is a walk-in cube containing a computer-animated installation of mirrors and monitors that create abstract, kaleidoscope-like images. It causes viewers to question conventional spacial perceptions. A sound installation by Franz Pomassl, an Austrian sound artist, supports the piece. www.e-breuninger.de
The large-scale, graphic installation by artist Peter Kogler at Breuninger in Düsseldorf.
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Andreas Murkudis
Analogue Digitalisation
The launch of an online shop is not exactly surprising news in 2017. However, when Andreas Murkudis forays into the digital world, the concept and staging convinces even the most obdurate digital natives. “In times when e-retailing is determined by fast-paced consumption and oversupply, we have decided to opt for an online shop that stocks exactly 99 products. The majority of items of fashion, art, and design are available online exclusively and represent a logical continuation of a visit to our store”, says Murkudis while explaining the decision to give his analogue stores in Berlin a place in the online world. “At first glance, it is visually appealing. However, we strive to give the objects a voice to communicate background stories born out of long-standing relationships with the respective designers. We pass these on in person in the stationary stores, but online we link the products with editorials containing personal anecdotes.” Murkudis’ stores stand for character, integrity, and timeless design. The first of four exclusive auction series, which will take place regularly until the launch of the online store in autumn 2017, starts in April. These events offer a unique opportunity to bid for unique items from Murkudis’ private collection. The objects on offer include collector’s items such as out-of-print magazines, exclusive invitations, and look-books by Chanel, Hedi Slimane, and Yamamoto, as well as archive pieces from selected Murkudis co-operations with brands like Martin Margiela and Raf Simons. The project was created in collaboration with Moon, a Copenhagen-based creative agency. The new Andreas Murkudis logo, designed by Norwegian artist Olav Christopher Jenssen, will be presented at the same time. www.andreasmurkudis.com
We’re pleased to invite you to discover our Spring / Summer 2018 collecton Premium Tradeshow July 4 - 6 Berlin S TA N D
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H A L L 3 H 3 - E 1 4 --------
G E R M A N Y
S H O W RO O M
Torsten Müller Room Nine Fashion Agency Rather Straße 49e 40476 Düsseldorf torsten.mueller@roomnineagency.de cpcompany.com
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Alfons Schneider: 60 years on the job, 52 as managing director - the 80-year-old still holds this position in Schneiders Holding today.
nat-2 & Dreckig bleiben
Luxury Recycling
Stefanie Mayr, a Hamburg-based designer and owner of the Elternhaus store, and Daniel Plettenberg, the owner of Valor Research & Consulting, have created an unusual perfume named “Dreckig Bleiben - a finely-tuned rejection of superficiality”. In cooperation with Munich-based shoe label nat-2, they have now launched a limited hand-painted capsule collection consisting of three boot models. In collaboration with a family-owned Italian manufactory, nat-2 has developed the first leather wellies. They consist of approximately 15 percent finest leather and 85 percent genuine rubber. Utilising a patented process, the rubber and leather are bonded in Italy whereby the density remains 100 percent intact. “The leather elements are small, high-quality by-products of the production of bags and shoes for renowned luxury labels. Due to their size, they cannot be used for the production of accessories. This process is not only a completely new way of recycling leather, but also creates a high-end vintage effect that makes the shoes unique”, says Sebastian Thies, the owner of nat-2. www.dreckigbleiben. com, www.nat-2.com
Schneiders
Happy Birthday, Mr Kommerzialrat!
80 years, 60 years on the job, 52 of the latter as managing director - Alfons Schneider had every reason to be proud of his life’s work on his birthday. The company he founded, Schneiders Holding GmbH, consists of
Vista Portuguese
Portugal per Order
Perfect for the miserable Hamburg weather: leather wellies by nat-2 and Dreckig Bleiben.
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six subsidiaries and employs approx. 170 employees. An export rate of 85% is proof of Alfons Schneider’s international spirit, even though his brands - Schneiders, Amadeus Fashion, and Kleidermanufaktur Habsburg - are deeply rooted in his homeland. The proud father of three daughters has also left his mark outside his company, for instance as chairman of the Federation of Industrialists and Honorary Consul of the Federal Republic of Germany. The Vienna native has received many awards for his work, among others the 1st Class Cross of Merit of the Federal Republic of Germany and the City Ring of Salzburg. After withdrawing from operational business as of the 1st of January 2011, the passionate hunter and mountaineer still describes the company as his large family. www.schneiders.com
Why would you put Portuguese ceramics in a fashion store? It increases customer frequency!
It all started with love. The first step was the opening of two concept stores in Heidelberg, which are still run by Natalie Nicoletti and Norbert Erhard. In these stores, the power couple expresses its love for Portugal by creating a Portuguese lifestyle world that complements the fashion range perfectly. As Norbert Erhard, who can draw from many years of experience in the industry, knows that what works for him can also generate revenue in other stores, he turned his love of Portugal into a business. Vista Portuguese, his import company, identifies ceramics, tableware, wine, delicatessen, and valuables in Portugal, prepares them for the German market, and finally imports the goods. Seeing that retailers aren’t keen on paperwork, Vista Portuguese offers its range as an uncomplicated full-package deal. Norbert Erhard offers advice in terms of which products will make both retailers and customers happy. Target customers are retailers from the interior, delicatessen, and fashion sectors. Norbert Erhard is already in business with household names such as Kultiv GmbH (interior) and Chez-Ginette (food). In 2017, he not only plans to expand his company’s product range, but also wants to reach out to his many fashion-related contacts. “The products are a welcome surprise for customers. From our own experience, we know that they are the perfect impulse purchase articles and bolster receipts accordingly. Enthusiastic customers tend to return.” Vista Portuguese offers customer magnets in a time when retailers are in dire need of new ideas at the PoS. www.vistaportuguese.de
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Head Sportswear
The Battle Awaits
Parajumpers
A well-known name is serving aces. Supported by former Mountainforce CEO Roman Stepek, Head is eager to no longer restrict its business to hardware and accessories. Be it tennis in summer or skiing in winter, Head enjoys a leading position in many sports. The group now plans to utilise its high profile to expand its textile and lifestyle segments. In addition to classic functional clothing for the respective sports, an “Essentials” line complements the range. Training, recovery, and travel are the key words for this urban leisurewear. However, we all know that clothing suitable for a sport environment can now also be worn by city dwellers. It therefore comes as no surprise that the design language doesn’t quote a single sport, but aims at a sporty lifestyle look. The men’s models range from casual layering styles and cotton t-shirts to ultra-light jackets, hoodies, and shirts with bold prints. The women’s models are feminine and modern. Tights with graphic patterns are combined with bras with elaborate back details and loose tank tops. Casual sweatpants and sweaters with lettering complete the range. www.head.com
Performance
New hope textiles - Head is hoping to utilise its leading position as a hardware brand to expand the textile and sportswear segments.
“Parajumpers is still performing very well on the sales floors”, says Matthias Schwarte, whose eponymous agency represents the brand in Germany. “For many years, the focus has not only been on the quality and durability of the products, but also on continuous innovation.” The Italian brand from the stables of Ape & Partner launches new product groups every year, among them Kegen, an urban high-tech capsule edition made of light, waterproof poplin with nylon ripstop Taffeta details and air-permeable laser-cut perforations. Flyshape is a new and very feminine line that plays with volumes effortlessly. It includes a short hooded jacket, a short parka, and a long parka. Springliner, which offers three styles for women, is yet another new addition to the range. It consists of bomber jackets, blazers, and parkas in a broken white tone inspired by military and safari palettes. It goes without saying that all Parajumpers’ lines are functional. “Even the segment with sweats, tees, and polos is now experiencing growth”, Schwarte adds. The brand offers hybrids made of cotton-nylon for the summer, as well as wool with down for the winter. “The production of these particular products has returned to Italy, thus affording the brand even more creative possibilities.” www.parajumpers.it
Exclusively stocked by Braun of Hamburg - the exquisite footwear collection by Sutor Mantellassi and Scott Schuhman.
Braun Hamburg
Differentiation with Exclusive Products
Every retailer is proud to use the term “exclusively in our store”. This applies in the case of the collaboration between Sutor Mantellassi and The Satorialist. Braun of Hamburg is the only German store to list the resulting sneakers. The traditional Italian footwear house Sutor Mantellassi teamed up with Scott Schuhman, the founder of the blog “The Satorialist”, to create a truly exclusive sneaker collection. Schuhman, a professed fan of Italy, was impressed by the rich heritage of Sutor Mantellassi. The company, which was founded by Enea and Ettoree Mantellassi, started handcrafting shoes as early as 1912. Schuhman’s models combine finest white calf leather with his typical casual sneaker style. Contrasting stripes in the colours Bordeaux, brown, and navy lend them their special look. “I am always on the lookout for interesting colour combinations when taking photographs. I wanted to inject this interest into the collaboration”, Schuhman explains. The American is perceived as a pioneer of the blogger industry. www.braun-hamburg.com, www.thesatorialist.com, www.sutormantellassi.com
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Parajumpers impresses with continuous innovations.
JA PA N F LO W E R w w w. a l b e r t o - p a nt s . co m
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Weber + Weber
Dancers
It was a chance meeting that brought Christian and Manuel Weber and the Italian modern dance company “Imperfect Dancers” together: A supplier passed on contact details and suddenly both sides were buzzing with ideas. These have now resulted in the second piece involving costumes by Weber + Weber. This time they are dancing Hamlet - and not just in Pisa, where the piece premiered, but they also took centre stage in Salzburg during the opening celebrations for the Salzburg Festival. The dance company in Weber attire has further stops planned. Athletic bodies, Weber + Weber’s rough fashion: they just match perfectly. And that applies to both sexes. A quiet premiere therefore, and a sign for the future. Christian Weber, who has spent a majority of his professional life designing for women - at Versace or Victoria Beckham, for example - is doing it again. Not without adapting the principles, or rather manifestos, of Slow Fashion by Weber + Weber for the ladies. Stay tuned and stay curious! www.weberweber.it
Good stuff: The Imperfect Dancers perform in costumes by Weber + Weber.
04651/ stands for finest understatement and a touch of luxury.
The perfect fit is the credo of the driving forces behind Articles of Society.
thrilled”, says Reinhart Oberstein of CP Fashion. The agency is the brand’s representative in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. Two other highlights of the Articles of Society collection are the high-waist styles and denim in the look of 1980s and 1990s. The latter includes straight, tapered, and light loose fits in a wide range of washings. In addition, the label now also offers a NOS programme which can be ordered via the B2B portal. The success of Articles of Society in all three German-speaking markets has exceeded Oberstein’s expectations. “We are experiencing double-digit growth rates, which confirms the trend we have identified in all segments. Customers are becoming more price-sensitive.” The retail prices range from 99 to 159 Euros with a mark-up between 2.8 and Articles of Society stands for 3.0. “We want to offer our customers high-quality basics at commercial a better margin, especially as the prices. The Los Angeles-based trade margin is just as important as brand has now decided to expand the perfect product”, Oberstein adds. its fashion range by launching In Germany, he cooperates with an intermediary collection with Handelsagentur Silvano Rose. The innovative highlights to be delivered two partners already established the between July and September. It brand 1921 in the German market includes, for example, a so-called together. The cooperation partner in Cargo Skinny model in camouflage Switzerland is Severin Steiner of Eins look in five colours. “The Cargo Zwei Zwei Eins, while Christian OboSkinny was very well received in the jes’ Room with a View is the partner in Austria. www.articlesofsociety.com US and our customers are equally
Articles of Society
Clear Competitive Advantage
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04651/
Holiday Time!
04651/ is both the dial code of the North Sea island Sylt and the name of a casual men’s collection with a self-explanatory mix-and-match look. It specialises in clothing that is ideally suited for a weekend trip. The focus is on modern basics made of the finest materials with a sensual feel. For the spring/summer 2018 season, the brand not only offers the
collection essentials under the “A Trip in a Bag” motto, but also signature pieces in two new and independent capsule collections. The Oyster Capsule utilises highly luxurious materials by the best weavers to create a look with especially fashionable details. The Wave Capsule represents styles in line with the athleisure trend and focuses on technically innovative materials. The collections are supplemented with matching bags, shoes, and accessories. All products are produced exclusively in Europe. The collections can be viewed in the Heritage Agents’ showroom in Munich and in the M5 showroom in New York. www.04651-sylt.com
18.07. – 19.07.2017
HOT1 Gusswerk Event Fabrik Showroom Habsburg Söllheimerstraße 16, Gebäude 5a 5028 Salzburg-Kasern
21.07. – 24.07.2017
FWD Showroom Habsburg Kaiserswerther Str. 142/2. OG 40474 Düsseldorf
30.07. – 01.08.2017
FASHION PREMIERE Gusswerk Eventfabrik Showroom Habsburg Söllheimerstraße 16, Gebäude 5a 5028 Salzburg-Kasern
07.08. – 08.08.2017
HOT2 Gusswerk Event Fabrik Showroom Habsburg Söllheimerstraße 16, Gebäude 5a 5028 Salzburg-Kasern
habsburg.co.at sales@habsburg.co.at
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Glücklich
Springtime in Winter
It all began ten years ago: Claudia Heiß and Christoph Steiner launched their brand Glücklich, which is firmly rooted in South Tyrol, just like its creators. With knitwear, tops, backpacks and jackets, the brand has developed a recognisable style and acquired a solid fan base. The name says it all: “If you believe in the old saying, then it doesn’t take much to be happy. We are convinced of it and are always fascinated by the essential. Clear cuts, stripped down to the basics, yet straight-forward - these are the focal points of our collection. Our products are all about high-quality fabric, careful production and a contemporary interpretation. We place great value on short production routes and choice of materials. That makes us ‘glücklich’, that’s happy in German,” say the makers of the label. For spring/summer 2018, which, with its first November delivery date starts in the middle of winter in the mountains, Glücklich presents a new quality: In both the women’s and men’s collections a cashmere/merino blend makes the items wonderfully comfortable to wear. A simple but special everyday jacket complements the product range. The sterling women’s blazers are still made from boiled wool, but they also come in a colourful summer tweed - both made in South Tyrol. For men there are Tyrolean boiled wool jackets and knitted cardigans. The backpacks Finn and Fritz are the new additions to the range: One for the city, with the obligatory laptop compartment, the other for the mountains, made from Teflon-coated Loden and naturally tanned leather. About 80 distributors worldwide - from the UK to Japan - carry the collection. “We feel good in the world we live in. We fill it with stories, good ones that nourish us - bad ones we can learn from. We believe in the great adventure that may await us at every turn and find joy in the simple things in life. Nature is a place of wonder and friendships are towers of strength. We love the catwalks of the fashion capitals and we need the mountains to breathe.” www.glücklich.it When it comes to manu facturing and materials, Glücklich places an essential focus on regional sourcing.
Lucky de Luca
New Partners
Valentino de Luca remains true to himself. This does not only apply to his collections Lucky de Luca and Barb’one, but also to his strategy of preferring partners from the classic retail sector rather than larger, supra-regional customers. This rather audacious strategy is proven right season after season: the sales figures are excellent. The company is currently expanding its distribution network and has teamed up with Les Agents of Paris. The latter now sells both brands in its showroom in the French capital. In Italy, Jackeroo Apparel, which has a showroom in Carpi in Modena, will present Barb’one at the Pitti for the very first time. In addition, Valentino de Luca has decided to return to the Premium in Berlin once again. As a little teaser, the designer mentions buzzwords such as Hawaii, California, 1950s, and Malibu, where the photo shoot for the collection took place. Good moods and summer desires are always woven into the fabrics of Lucky de Luca. How will the coming summer be? It will boast many colourful floral prints in light, flowing qualities. The focus is on tunics with elaborate details such as embroidery. The Barb’one trouser collection remains true to its roots as well. However, it now also includes Capri pants in camouflage. For the ladies, these pieces come in light stretch qualities with floral prints. Naturally, they all have the striking stripe along the seam. The highlight of the men’s collection is a model with all-over embroidery. The women’s collection utilises stylistic elements such as sequins. www.luckydeluca.com, www.barboneitaly.com
The Contemporary Line creates a new entry price level at Edward Copper.
Edward Copper
Contemporary Line
Edward Copper, a brand launched by Hilke Blömeke in 2012, has developed in a sustainable manner. The label’s refined shirts - and blouses since two seasons ago - are listed at 43 renowned retailers. All pieces are handcrafted in Europe. “It seems we have hit a nerve with our smart, casual shirts in timeless designs. Our customers appreciate high standards, detailed craftsmanship, and fashionable collection statements.” As of spring/summer 2018, the brand will add a Contemporary Line to its portfolio. It offers fashionable designs at prices ranging from 129 to 159 Euros, thereby reacting to market needs. Blömeke adds: “We sense a demand for trendy items at a price below the average Edward Copper price of 169 Euros, which we take into account with the launch of the Contemporary Line.” However, the new line doesn’t forego brand-specific features such as the exclusive use of European fabrics, the cuts in individual sizes, fell seams and stem-sewn buttons, an extremely fine seam pattern, and the manufacturing of all shirts within the European Union. “The Edward Copper shirt won’t change. The Contemporary Line is merely a supplement of sorts”, Blömeke stresses. www.edwardcopper.com 217 style in progress
Always in a happy mood: Lucky de Luca.
Johnny Talbot & Adrian Runhof
Meike Lohmann
Fashion designers / Talbot Runhof
Visual artist / Kauft mehr Kunst
Dirk Hoberg
Markus Meindl
Entrepreneur / Meindl Fashion
Two-star chef / Ophelia restaurant Constance
Lay your trust in the world‘s finest white T-shirt. Find out more online or shop at Andreas Murkudis/Berlin, Braun/Hamburg, Schlösser/Hannover, Weitkamp/Münster, Engelhorn/Mannheim, Lodenfrey/München, Stereo Muc/München, Steffl/Wien, Helmut Eder/Kitzbühel, Phänomen/Luzern, René Capaul/Basel, Salvatore Schitto/Zürich, Rialto Living/Palma de Mallorca etc. www.meystory.com
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Another Souvenir
Everybody Loves Accessories
Tommy Wieler and Vanessa Baroni-Wieler specialise in generating revenue with small, beautiful items. Their event concept “The Souvenir Bazaar” was so successful that they have decided to establish permanent stations with accessories at their key accounts in the future. In this context, they cooperate closely with Breuninger in Stuttgart and Engelhorn in Mannheim. The delicate collection by Estella Bartlett performed particularly well this season. However, the agency specialising in accessories already has the next precious items at hand. Philippe Audibert is a French label that is well-known for its necklaces, rings, and bracelets at retail prices ranging from 50 to 120 Euros with a calculation factor of 2.7. It is listed at the likes of Operpollinger, KaDeWe, and Daniels. The high-end gloves by Honns hail from the US. Instead of monochrome uni-tones, they boast modern materials and contemporary patterns such as camouflage, stripes, diamonds, quilts, and colour patches. Turn your hands into real eye-catchers! Labels: Anna + Nina, Bread & Boxers, Briston, Estella Bartlett, Giselle Collection, Honns, Jet Set Candy, Le Cord, Nach Bijoux, Philippe Audibert, Stara, Vanessa Baroni, Wood’d, Ynoir Another Souvenir GmbH, Stuttgart/Germany, tommy@anothersouvenir.de, v anessa@anothersouvenir.de, www.anothersouvenir.de
Pyrenex jackets utilise high-quality down feathers from the Pyrenees and are tested in Lapland or the Himalayas.
Estella Bartlett’s jewellery line is particularly delicate.
Eyegasm
More Daring Men
This season, Eyegasm has added eleven new labels to its portfolio. One of the new additions is Officina36, a menswear label that offers Italian chic with a classic-sporty touch and a calculation factor of approximately 3.0. Gean Luc Paris, an Italian menswear label, utilises special fabrics for its well-cut suits. They can be offered at a reasonable price due to the fact that they are supplied by the Italian manufacturer directly. “The style of men is breaking new ground”, says Damir Prins-Juric, the MD of Eyegasm. “I can see a radical change. The modern man is more daring, follows trends, and sometimes even overshadows women with a particularly eye-catching look.” Beatrice.b of Italy is a new addition for ladies. The label boasts a refined fashion style that focuses on design and quality. Vilagallo, on the other hand, is characterised by Spanish traditions with lively colours and classic cuts. One of the long-standing brands is Set, which Eyegasm represents in Germany’s new federal states. Oakwood of France is perceived as a leather specialist that also offers innovative non-leather styles. Herzen’Sangelegenheit, a German label, stands for cashmere and silk products with a good price-performance ratio. The agency itself, which has four showrooms in Germany, offers
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Beatrice.b, an Italian label within the Eyegasm portfolio, focuses on feminine sophistication.
a combination of sales and PR under one roof. “This allows us to not only create optimal visibility for our brands, but also strengthen the bond between our sales partners and Eyegasm”, Prins-Juric says. Labels: Alysi, Artists, b.u., Beatrice.b, Braez, Camicettasnob, Compagnie de Provence, Delicatelove, doo-wop, Emma Lomax, From St Xavier, Gaudi, Gean Luc Paris, Herzen’S angelegenheit, Icon Design Living, Ivko, Kultfrau, Legend, Never Enough, Nolita, Oakwood, Officina36, Once We Were Warriors, Penn & Ink N.Y, Pieszak, POM Amsterdam, Rock Revival, S’well, Set, Since’re, The Hip Tee, Vilagallo, Voluspa Eyegasm Textilvertriebs GmbH, Berlin, Hamburg, Düsseldorf, Munich/Germany, info@eyegasm-fashion.com, www.eyegasm-fashion.com
Panorama Europe/ Fashion Factory
New Brand Complements Portfolio
Panorama Europe and Fashion Factory, its cooperating sales agency in Düsseldorf, have been representing Pyrenex, a French down jacket brand, in Germany and Switzerland since the start of the autumn/winter 2017/18 sales season. The distribution network of Panorama Europe ensures
smooth delivery, excellent service, and logistics. Mark Grütters and his Fashion Factory team are in charge of sales. The two partners have been operating on these terms since 2010 and have established brands such as Schott NYC in the process. The focus is on brands with tradition, history, and modern lifestyle relevance. Mark Grütters, a veritable jacket expert, says: “With its history that reaches back more than 100 years, Pyrenex is a perfect fit for our brand portfolio. We have big plans for the German market. I am confident that our concept - involving distribution, marketing, PR, service, and sales - will enable us to successfully establish this brand here too. The plan for the first autumn/winter 2017 season is to supply 15 to 20 carefully selected stores in Germany. In the long term, our marketing strategy is aimed at the best 60 to 80 retailers in the country. We will only consider the most sophisticated multi-brand stores, e-retailers, and concept stores. Pyrenex is an exclusive brand that requires a selective distribution strategy.” Labels: Espadrij l’originale, Grundens, Menil, Paraboots, Penfield, Rivieras, Schott NYC Fashion Factory by Mark Grütters, Düsseldorf/Germany, contact@ffbymg.com, www.ffbymg.com Panorama Europe GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, mail@panorama-europe.eu, www.panorama-europe.eu
www.parajumpers.it
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CP Fashion
Typically American
The trend of the 1980s and 1990s brings back rustic non-stretch denims. This is good news for the likes of Silverjeans of Canada, a jeans specialist with competence in terms of fit. “We can sense a ‘back to the roots’ trend”, says Reinhart Oberstein, the owner of CP Fashion. “This has led to a notable stabilisation of Silverjeans in the European markets. The capsule collection For Us by Silver - with retail prices ranging from 149 to 169 Euros - also contributes to the brand’s success.” After the third season at CP Fashion, Articles of Society has reached approx. 100 customers - including PKZ of Switzerland, as well as Different Fashion and Engelhorn of Germany. In the coming season, the brand offers tops that have already been available in America for three seasons and have - according to Oberstein - been received well. Jean Shop was added to the agency’s portfolio last season. “The New York cult brand stands for wearable, cool looks made of Selvedge denim”, Oberstein explains. He strives to establish Jean Shop in the German-speaking markets in the long term. The average retail price is 200 Euros. In addition, CP Fashion focuses on the relaunch of Miss Sixty. “It’s the right time for a comeback; womenswear needs fashionable input”, Oberstein says. “We’ve already convinced some excellent specialised retailers in the Benelux region and Germany.” Labels: Articles of Society, Chaser, Debbie Katz, For Us, Miss Sixty, Orobos, Robin’s Jeans, Silver Jeans CP Fashion, Bad Säckingen, Düsseldorf, and Munich/Germany, info@cpfashion.de, www.cpfashion.de
Rolf Griesinger Internationale Mode
Success with a Newcomer
“We are content and have performed well, despite it being a difficult season”, says Martin Steckel. He is particularly happy with Brown Allan, a new casual knitwear label from New York which made its debut this season. “It worked well for us. The label was an important door opener at high-end customers.” Knitwear by Bloom and jackets by IQ+ Berlin were - as in the years before - important revenue generators. “We have had a good response in the men’s segment. We sold bomber jackets, even though others had some negative experiences with them in the past”, Steckel explains. Summer bomber jackets with Jacquard patterns proved to be particularly popular. There was also a strong demand for lambskin trimming as an alternative to fur. The agency is committed to continuity in terms of its portfolio, but is open to adding specialists to its range. “Generally speaking, customers are very cautious and need to be convinced to add new products.” Labels: Anima Pop, Bloom, Brown Allan, FFC, IQ+ Berlin Rolf Griesinger Internationale Mode GmbH, Munich/Germany, office@griesinger-mode.de, www.griesinger-mode.de
shows, the classic sales channel - to be on the road for the customers, so to speak - is the right approach to maintain personal contacts, establish a strong bond with customers, and work in a service-oriented manner”, Thorben explains. With her brands Happy Sheep and Aurum, she strives to supply specialist retailers, concept stores, and tradition-steeped fashion houses with products of the highest quality at a good price-performance ratio. “The focus is on flexible delivery times, basic programmes, and capsule collections in order to provide the retail trade with the right tools for a successful procurement process. Happy Sheep is an Italian cashmere line which is designed by a team in Milan and has its own production facility in Nepal. Aurum is a Canadian activewear line that functions ‘all day long’. I believe in this trend that has already popped up in many metropolises. Aurum offers After gaining 21 years of industry experience in leggings as an alternative to jeans, as both retail and sales, Anna C. Thorben decided well as a range of matching tops that to launch her own agency. Until recently, work well with the timeless wellness the Wattenscheid native, who relocated to and wellbeing trends”, she explains. We Hamburg many years ago, worked for Agentur wish her all the best! Klauser. “I have established an excellent Labels: Aurum, Happy Sheep network in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. ANNA C.T., Hamburg/Germany, anna@annact.de, www.annact.de I believe that, in addition to presence at trade
ANNA C.T.
On Own Legs Specialised brands such as Silverjeans benefit from the trend towards more rustic nonstretch denims.
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Reliable companions jackets by IQ+ Berlin are among the agency’s most successful products.
COLLEC TION SPRING 2018
PREMIUM BERLIN HALLE 3 / B 01 /04/05/06 JULY 2017 DÃœSSELDORF SHOWROOM RATHER STR. 49E 5TH FLOOR
GERMANY NORTH, AGENTUR STEFAN MAU, ST. ANNENUFER 3 BLOCK R3, D-20457 HAMBURG, PHONE +49 40 300 879 58, MOBIL +49 171 774 189 0, OFFICE@AGTMAU.DE GERMANY WEST, ROLAND GOMOLLA, RATHER STRASSE 49E, D-40476 DÜSSELDORF, PHONE +49 211 943 03 40, ROLANDGOMOLLA@BETTER-RICH.COM GERMANY MIDDLE, BIRGITTA ZÖLLER MODEAGENTUR, HEYNE FABRIK HAUS 12 / 1.STOCK, LILISTRASSE 83E, D-63067 OFFENBACH, PHONE +49 69 401 588 02, MOBIL +49 178 760 53 85, BIRGITTAZOELLER@BETTER-RICH.COM GERMANY SOUTH-WEST, AGENTUR GÖPPERT2, URS & SVENJA GÖPPERT, EURO FASHION CENTER / 3. ETAGE, MAHDENTALSTRASSE 100, D-71065 SINDELFINGEN, PHONE +49 7031 792 452, MOBIL +49 172 633 19 27, SVENJAGOEPPERT@BETTER-RICH.COM GERMANY SOUTH-WEST / GERMANY SOUTH, FASHIONWORKS, AGENTUR THOMAS VOGEL, FRANKFURTER RING 162, D-80807 MÜNCHEN, PHONE +49 89 350 649 48, MOBIL +49 179 460 352 4, THOMASVOGEL@BETTER-RICH.COM GERMANY EAST, PR FASHION GMBH & CO. KG, LARS RIEMENSCHNEIDER, WASSERSCHLOSS, SCHLESISCHE STRASSE 26, D 10997 BERLIN, PHONE +49 30 707 814 50, MOBIL +49 171 652 691 2, INFO@PR-FASHION.DE AUSTRIA, ROOM WITH A VIEW, CHRISTIAN OBOJES, STELZHAMERSTRASSE 5A, A-5020 SALZBURG, PHONE +43 662 875 651, OFFICE@ROOMWITHAVIEW.AT NETHERLANDS, BETTER RICH, THOMAS-ANDREAS DREXLER, RATHER STRASSE 49E, D-40476 DÜSSELDORF, PHONE +49 2871 995 789 22, ANDREASDREXLER@BETTER-RICH.COM SWITZERLAND, KAMM+KAMM COMPANY, PATRICK KAMM, SEESTRASSE 95, CH-8800 THALWIL, PHONE +41 44 771 75 65, INFO@KAMMCOMPANY.CH
WWW.BETTER-RICH.COM
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The Farm by Aco
Ah and Oh Fashion, home, beauty, lifestyle - Aco MD Michael Schulz, Karin Hammermann, and Jane Munro-Hall founded The Farm by Aco, a retail consulting agency, as equal partners. For them it simply was no longer enough to be a classic fashion agency. The completely redesigned showroom in Düsseldorf is a feast for the eyes. The premium fashion is spread out over 1,200 square metres. The area is interspersed with islands showcasing ceramics, stationery, and shaving items, all set in scene perfectly due to exceptional room dividers, pavilions, and illuminated photo walls - quite inviting. “We strive to turn retail stores into stages again”, says Hammermann. The Aco showroom provides some fitting examples.
Keep Up
Aco has been representing brands such as Just Cavalli, Versace, Pinko, and Tara Jarmon for many years. This core competence remains intact - supplemented by the new concept, which should also be of interest to more commercial retailers. The focus is on individual products that can enrich the point of sale: handcrafted ceramics, non-mainstream beauty products, exquisite barista coffee, the ultimate blouse, or an exceptional scarf. “Farm” stands for Fashion And Retail Managers. The Farm by Aco strives to support its retail customers in all aspects regarding shop design and project planning, as well as purchasing and communication - depending on individual wishes and budgets. The comfortable leather sofa is for sale, as are cool concrete platforms, special shelves, and sophisticated lighting systems. In addition, retailers who are eager to create their own collections can collaborate with designers and manufacturers via The Farm by Aco. It seems to work. During the last Panorama trade show in Berlin, the Aco stand, which was designed like a concept store, was the talk of the town. “We attracted a lot of attention and received excellent feedback”, Schulz, the brand director, explains. “Many retailers were thrilled that we, as an agency, keep up with them. Hammermann and Munro-Hall bring the required experience and competence to the table. During her time as head of sales at Toepfer Modeagentur, Hammermann worked with brands like Faliero Sarti and VSP. After that, she set up her own agency for upcoming labels. She also worked as a buying consultant for Brands4friends
The Farm by Aco strives to make extraordinary store and product range concepts tangible.
and Karstadt Warenhaus. At The Farm by Aco, she now acts as sales director and new business developer for the wholesale segment. Munro-Hall, who hails from Scotland, founded her own label in London, worked for EDC by Esprit and P&C, and - most recently - led a team of 100 employees as senior vice president for womenswear at Karstadt. At Aco, she is mainly responsible for the development of retail concepts, including merchandising management. The next few seasons will show whether the new concept appeals to the retail industry. “Everybody is talking about how important it is to create desires, but only very few know how to do that”, Munro-Hall argues. “We don’t want to impose a concept, but assist stores in highlighting their own identities.” Labels: among others AA-Altuner Ateliers, Allessandra Chamonix, Concept:Product, Dsquared Underwear, Fusalp, Heart of Ace, Ice Berg, Just Cavalli, Lab Pal Zileri, Marciano Los Angeles, Minoronzoni, Moschino Underwear, Nuvi Living, Ora Cashmere, P.A.R.O.S.H., Pinko, Pinko Jeans, Plein Sud Jeanius, Plein Sport, Purotatto, Quantum Courage, Saraghina Eyewear, Serapian, Seventy, Tara Jarmon, Versace Collection, Versace Underwear, White Sand The Farm by Aco, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@acomode.de, www.acomode.de
Karin Hammermann (left), Michael Schulz, and Jane Munro-Hall are the driving force behind The Farm by Aco.
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Jacob Lee London is among the new additions to MAB’s portfolio - urban, casual, and luxurious.
MAB Fashion
South Californian Lifestyle
Jacob Lee London is a new addition to the portfolio of MAB Fashion. It’s a high-end collection that aims to set trends inspired by the spirit of the British capital. The corresponding look is urban, self-explanatory, and luxurious with authentic qualities and innovative finishing. The collection by Lancel of Paris is characterised by its French roots. The innovative design language shows a French attitude. Rails of Los Angeles, founded by Jeff Abrams, is a new
portfolio brand that offers fashion for women, men, and children. The collections reflect the lifestyle of South California. The contemporary outerwear by Mackage, which balances fashion and function, is among the agency’s classics. Mackage is known for its body-hugging cuts and special details on leather, wool, and down jackets, as well as coats. Mackage was founded in 1999 and initially focused on womenswear. The range is now complemented by menswear and a range of bags. The legacy of Courrèges, a truly traditional brand, is still enjoying success in present day context. References from the past still seem modern today. Examples include mini skirts with A-lines, ankle boots, and materials such as lacquer. “We offer our customers an allround carefree package”, Regis Benabou says. “This not only includes sales, but also PR and marketing. Short communication channels allow us to act swiftly and be even closer to customers.” Labels: 3.1 Phillip Lim, Ba&sh, Courrèges, Designers Remix, HTC, Jacob Lee London, Lancel, Lunar Society, Mackage, Manuel Barceló, National Standard, Paloma Barceló, Paul & Joe, Paul & Joe Sister, Rachel Zoe, Rails, The Kooples, The Kooples Sport MAB Fashion / Modeagentur Benabou, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@mab-fashion.com, www.mab-fashion. cominfo@mab-fashion.com, www.mab-fashion.com
Studio Pezzetta
On the Move
Caro Pezzetta and her team decided to pack their bags while the sales season was still in full swing. After many years in “Müllerstrasse”, the agency has moved to “Thalkirchnerstrasse” into significantly larger premises it shares with Lala Berlin. “Labels such as No 21 and MGSM simply require a more generous and classy presentation”, Pezzetta says. She intends to launch another innovation during the upcoming season: an online shop for her B2B customers that stocks all labels. “It makes sense, especially if you already know a label and can’t make it to Milan or Paris for an order appointment. This happens quite often.” Pezzetta has invested heavily in programming the shop. She is willing to make it available to other agencies. “We have to move with the times. The showroom - as beautiful as it may be - is merely one of many ways to reach our customers.” Labels: Aczur, Astrid Elisee, Blancha, Giada Benincasa, MSGM, No 21, Nili Lotan, Seafarer, Sportmax, Stateside, Tatras Studio Pezzetta, Munich/Germany, info@studiopezzetta.com, www.studiopezzetta.com Spacious - Studio Pezzetta has relocated to Munich’s “Thalkirchnerstrasse”.
Felix, the agency’s resident dachshund, supports the Vestitus staff as best he can.
Vestitus
Fortune Favours the Hardworking
This is the motto of Vestitus, the agency run by Peter Haertel and Volker Haertel. “It’s all about service; that’s what we stand for”, says Peter Haertel. “We don’t leave customers stranded with goods. If a product doesn’t work, it can be exchanged.” This is why the agency has added two members to its sales team in order
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to strengthen the service aspect for its eleven collections. Trousers by Jacob Cohën are among the market leaders in the premium trousers segment and boast elaborate details without seeming too “overloaded”. The Herno label, which is - according to Volker Haertel - among the agency’s strongest performers, focuses on laser-cut jackets with welded seams. Thus, a minimalist down blouson with an additional inner thermo-tape on the seams is completely waterproof. Just as innovative: a cashmere coat with welded seams that underlines the
innovative look. The range is complemented by down blousons with expressive prints created by Pierre-Louis Mascia. Tortona 21, an exclusive female knitwear range that hails from the same fashion house as Antonelli, is entering its third successful season. It’s renowned for its special cuts with delicate, style-conscious details. In addition to its classic shoes with beautiful hand-crafted colouring, Santoni now also offers sporty sneakers made of the softest glove leather. L.B.M., a label that hails from the Italian town of Mantua, has enjoyed a successful first season with Vestitus. At a calculation factor of 3.0 to 3.2, the label offers innovative sports jackets at retail prices ranging from 499 to 649 Euros. “The driving force behind L.B.M. is a very likeable business”, says Peter Haertel. “It is important to us to not only collaborate with brands, but with people - this applies to both our brands and our own customers.” Labels: Antonelli, Alberto Biani, Fedeli, Finamore, Herno, Jacob Cohën, L.B.M. 1911, Olivieri, Santoni, Tortona 21 Vestitus GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, service@vestitus.eu, www.vestitus.eu
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Room Nine Agency
Fashion Statement
A new addition to the portfolio of Room Nine Agency is Redirection, a Düsseldorf-based label that specialises in uncomplicated sweatshirts, t-shirts, and jackets embroidered with catchy messages such as “betterdays”. Bomboogie of Italy is renowned for leather jackets in aviator style. “It’s a good product at commercial prices”, says Torsten Müller, whose agency acts as the label’s sales representative for mid-Germany. For autumn/winter 2017/18, he managed to win over new customers such as Braun Moers, Harders Duisburg, and Daniels Cologne. Another new addition is 80db Original of France. The inner lining of the label’s jacket is printed with comics; they warm with fleece instead of down. A special feature is a set of headphones with a cable that runs through the jacket to the inside pocket. The jackets are available in 24 colours and come packed in a cardboard box. The retail price is 189 Euros. “We now also represent C.P. Company in Austria”, Müller explains. “The collection has made another giant leap forward. The designers Paul Harvey and Alessandro Pungetti have done a great job.” C.P. Company is mainly innovative in terms of materials, but has dipped into its jacket archive of the early 1990s for inspiration. “The look is new, cool, and urban, as well as always functional”, Müller adds. “This is what makes C.P. Company so unique. Masculin Kreis, Breuninger, and the new Engelhorn Trendhouse are but a few names that have decided to add the brand to their portfolios.” Labels: Blake Seven, Bomboogie, C.P. Company, Flip Flop, Kanuk Montreal, Orlebar Brown, 80db Original Room Nine Agency, Düsseldorf/Germany, torsten. mueller@roomnineagency.de, www.roomnineagency.de
P4 is the head agent for Glamorous in Germany and Austria. It showcases the label’s range in its own showroom in Düsseldorf.
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P4
The Concept Idea
P4 hopes to cover the fast fashion segment by adding Glamorous of Manchester to its brand portfolio. “Glamorous offers twelve collections per year and is a strong performer at the likes of Asop, Topshop, and About You”, says MD Oliver Feske. “Glamorous covers what large vertically integrated suppliers can’t, especially as the collection hails from the UK and is always right on the pulse of time.” The look is characterised by British sexiness. The calculation factor ranges from 2.8 to 3.0. The trendy S’well Bottles from New York are, for instance, listed at Nordstrom, Barneys, and Saks. P4 distributes the bottles in Germany at retail prices ranging from 35 to 55 Euros with a calculation factor of 2.5. All models are made of stainless steel. A special seal keeps liquids cold for 24 hours or warm for 12 hours. The caps by Goorin Headwear not only inspire football stars such as Messi and Neymar, but also retailers such as Conley’s, Zur Blauen Hand, and Stierblut. Just like the S’well Bottles, P4 always has the caps in stock. The retail price is 29.90 Euros with a calculation factor of 2.5. The agency also continues to grow with its four base brands Minimum, Herschel, RVLT, and Koi. The agency hopes to realise its own concept store with trading partners later this year. “We have now successfully mastered the first season with our new structure”, Feske says. “The customers are thrilled by what we have created here.” Labels: Brooklyn Soap Company, Cowboys Bags, Donkey Products, Dr. Bronners, Emma Lomax, Gestalten, Glamorous, Goorin, Happy Plugs, Kerbholz, Kings of Indigo, Minimum, Moleskine, Monkee Genes, RVLT, Selfhood, Slydes, Storch Manufaktur, S’well Bottles P4 Marketing GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@p4marketing.de, www.p4marketing.de
The Vilebrequin brand has added new products to its range.
Premium Brand Group
Emotion and Suspense
Fashion, interior, and lifestyle - Erika Palese believes that the boundaries of these segments are becoming increasingly blurred at the point of sale. “This creates suspense and emotions”, the native Italian argues. The Vilebrequin brand, which Palese represents in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, is not only available in shop-in-shop formats at KaDeWe, Lodenfrey, and Galeries Lafayette Berlin, but also at luxury spas of renowned hotels. In addition to its core competence of swimwear, Vilebrequin has decided to launch a comprehensive range of sporty wrist watches. The chronometers for women and men are waterproof to a depth of 100 metres and are available at retail prices between 200 and 400 Euros. One can choose between a Japanese and a Swiss movement. Home wear and underwear by Derek Rose has been making its way into fashion houses such as Breuninger. “This segment has been neglected in the past despite its enormous potential”, Palese claims. “It is noticeable that consumers are willing to invest in feeling comfortable at home.” The label Begg & Co, which stands for luxury scarves, has launched a new, extensive interior collection. An addition to this line is a large, feather-light cashmere cloth that can be used as both a scarf and a blanket in an aircraft. Last but not least, The Bespoke Dudes offer a classic line of unisex shades by the blogger Fabio Attanasio, which are hand-crafted in Italy. The retail prices for the latter range from 150 to 160 Euros. Labels: Begg & Co, Derek Rose, Les Ottomans, Nobis, The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear, Vilebrequin, Woods, Zaza de Brito Premium Brand Group, Munich/Germany, office@premiumbrandgroup.de, www.premiumbrandgroup.de
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Agentur Mindner
Premiere at Premium
Under the direction of Sandra Mindner, the Munich-based agency has made a name for itself with a number of newcomers since 2006. Every season there are new labels added and a dedicated team is in charge of co-ordinating PR. The 290 square metre showroom combines the different collections into creative images to be sold in stores. What the team looks for is a good mix of ranges that appeal to both established houses and concept stores focusing on unique styles. Special events, for example personalised Canadian Classics at the Vogue Fashion Night, support their sales. The agency’s philosophy is built on short import distances, sustainability, social responsibility, and the sensible use of resources. The label 8 Eden Avenue, founded by Munich native Jessica Gruner and featuring handmade cashmere scarves from northern India, shares this philosophy. The agency debuts with its own stand at the Premium and two of its new labels - Elina Lebessi and JN by JN Llovet - are the newcomers; in the future, the agency plans to expand its presence at trade fairs. Labels: 8 Eden Avenue, Canadian Classics, C.P. TWENTYNINE, Daily’s, Elina Lebessi, Fabienne Chapot, Graumann, JN by JN Llovet, La Feé Marabouteé, LeJu, Louise Kragh, Madame PomPom, Pernille Corydon, Pieszak Modeagentur Mindner, Munich/Germany, buero@modeagentur-mindner.com, www.modeagentur-mindner.com
True Religion now offers a NOS programme for the summer season.
Sarah Mindner sponsors and promotes young, up-and-coming brands such as Elina Lebessi and JN by JN Llovet.
Komet und Helden
Sportswear for Bond and Keanu Reeves
In Stereo Muc, the store owned by Henrik Soller and Florian Ranft, the tailored casual collection by Timothy Everest has been one of the best-selling brands for quite some time. Komet und Helden, the duo’s fashion agency, is now also the label’s sales representative in Germany and Austria. “The brand from London has many prominent fans. It’s also a supplier of the James Bond films and the new Matrix movie with Keanu Reeves”, Soller says. The ready-to-wear collection by Timothy Everest, a world-famous tailor, shows Japanese influences in its materials and impresses with its contemporary sportswear style. The production takes place in selected facilities in Japan and Europe. In line with existing capacities, the distribution strategy is highly selective. Another new addition to the agency’s brand portfolio is Barena. “We have been friends with the brand’s managers for a long time and are very enthusiastic about this trendy total look for men and women. It’s never too far out”, Soller explains. Barena of Mirano near Venice is particularly successful in the categories trousers, blazers, and coats, as well as in the use of high-end wool materials in general. The average retail price for trousers is 200 Euros, while blazers and coats cost 350 and 500 Euros respectively.
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AG Jeans: Coolness and heritage.
The calculation factor stands at 2.7. On the other hand, the agency has cut ties with numerous smaller suppliers in order to intensify its work with larger brands such as AG Jeans and 7 for all Mankind. “Blauer has also performed very well over the last two seasons. Hartford and Ottod’Ame have grown too”, Soller reveals. “In any case, large suppliers now offer such a large and diverse range; it allows retailers to order very individually. That means we can support retailers in their efforts to stand out from the competition.” Labels: 7 for all Mankind, AG Jeans, Baracuta, Barena, Blauer USA, Diemme, Grand Morin, Hartford, Ottod’Ame, Paltò, Save the Duck, The NIM, Timothy Everest, T-Jacket Komet und Helden, Munich, Düsseldorf/Germany, www.kometundhelden.de
Unifa Fashion/ True Religion Brand Jeans Germany
West-Coast Campaign
The agency started into the season with a string of new Californian labels. Aviator Nation, Cotton Citizen, Grlfrnd, and Kendall & Kylie are the new additions to the portfolio. Aviator Nation, a lifestyle brand created by Paige Mycoskie, draws inspiration from the look of the 1970s. Cotton Citizen’s creative director, Adam Vanunu, focuses on implementing regularly changing colour trends virtuosi-
cally. Kendall & Kylie, the brand of the eponymous sisters of the Jenner clan, is characterised by blending different styles. Grlfrnd, on the other hand, specialises in authentic denim inspired by the zeitgeist of the 1990s. There is also news in terms of denim with regards to existing portfolio brands. The main revenue generators at Rag & Bone are cropped style denims and casual longsleeves with logo prints. True Religion has added a denim NOS programme to its range and celebrates the revival of the 1970s. In terms of fits, the collection focuses on the most popular fits such as skinny, boyfriend, and cropped. These fits are offered in vintage washes for women and men. Labels: Art Youth Society, Aviator Nation, Cotton Citizen, Ella Moss, For Love & Lemons, Grlfrnd, Jadicted, Juvia, Kendall + Kylie, Lug Von Siga, M.i.h Jeans, Oats Cashmere, One Teaspoon, Rag & Bone, Rococo Sand, Splendid, Stand, True Religion Unifa Fashion GmbH/ True Religion Brand Jeans Germany GmbH, Düsseldorf/Germany, sales@unifafashion.com, b.hinrichs@truereligion.com, www.unifafashion.com, www.truereligion.com
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Die Hinterhof agentur
Inspire and Support Room with a view
Bon Appétit
Is remodelling his favourite pastime? Christian Obojes’ passion for interiors has found a new playground: the agency’s bistro has been given a new look for the new order season. “Luckily, that’s not the only news we have”, the agency owner laughs. Sabine “Sassi” Weissbacher has become a regular member of the sales team. In addition, Room with a view now offers its customers the option to order via a B2B portal. “We are digitalising the order process. It’s crazy to think about how much we still do on paper”, Obojes muses. In terms of product ranges, the agency remains “focused on more. Seeing that we only serve the Austrian market, it doesn’t make sense to limit yourself to a few brands. On the contrary, retailers are thrilled that visiting us is now as inspiring as it was in the early days of the agency. The fact that we offer innovative collections such as Deus ex Machina, White Sand, and In Bed With You for upscale boutiques is appreciated.” Well, then bon appétit!
Ben And
After the remodelling of the showroom, the bistro was the next project on the list. Room with a view looks refreshed.
Labels : 7 for all mankind, Alto Milano, Arrk, Articles of Society, Better Rich, Deus ex Machina, Ecoalf, Happy Socks, In Bed with You, Lovat & Green, Moose Knuckels, Opportuno, Osvaldo Trucchi, Pomandére, R13, RRD, Roque, Stand Stockholm, Steven-K, TKees, Veja, Warm-Me, White Sand, Xacus Donna Room with a view, Salzburg/Austria, office@roomwithaview.at, www.roomwithaview.at
Adding new elements to an established portfolio is the forté of agency owner Dominik Meuer. One of the new additions is La Mome Bijou, a Parisian jewellery collection. “It won’t make us rich, but we can offer retailers beautiful, extraordinary products that are capable of complementing a product range.” The agency strives to offer its customers an interplay of continuity and inspiration. “That doesn’t mean that we plan to present 10 new collections every season, but that we’re eager to intensify relationships with our existing suppliers and customers.” Nevertheless, the agency is also thrilled to have added the related shoe labels Prime Shoes and Hamlet to the brand portfolio for Bavaria and Austria. “It’s a fantastic brand story from the Ammersee region. I believe this is a great men’s shoe with an excellent price-performance ratio and stock management”, Meuer explains. The development of portfolio stalwarts such as Wool & Co and Bob is very pleasing too. “In the case of Bob, we grew in the sports jacket segment. This is a very specific product with a fast rotation at the POS. In terms of denim, Uniform has started well. It’s a classic brand with convincing prices ranging from 99 to 149 Euros.” Des Petits Hauts draws from the power of its re-order programme to increase the revenue of its pre-orders. “We have noticed that brands we have been accompanying for a long time experience an increased demand. There’s a sudden surge once brands have become anchored in the awareness of retailers and consumers.” Meuer’s ambition is to work towards exactly that moment. Labels: Bob, Breco’s, Cape Horn, Des Petits Hauts, Ginger and Ruby, Hamlet, Hod, Koike Barcelona, La Mome Bijoux, Portofiori, Prime Shoes, Lab Dip, My Bro Tie, My Sunday Morning, Rr2, The Jacksons, Uniform, Wool & Co, Wyse London Die Hinterhofagentur, Munich/Germany, d.meuer@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.diehinterhofagentur.de
Ben And enters the season with five new brands (pictured: 81 Hours) and five new employees.
On the Road
500 customers in a few weeks… No, this doesn’t refer to one of the five new brands in Ben And’s portfolio, but to the extraordinary result of a journey that Ben Botas and his team embarked on immediately after the conclusion of the autumn/winter order. “It was an intense trip. We visited customers and potential customers to gain a comprehensive overview of the retail landscape.” Naturally, the journey included preparatory talks concerning the five new arrivals that are all quite impressive: 81 Hours (GER/CH), Stefanel (GER/AUT), NDC Made by Hand, NA-KD, and 2Shirtsago (all GER/AUT/CH). With new brands on board, the agency has also hired additional personnel: two employees in the back office and three in the distribution department. “We are known for expanding brands and making them successful. We have the organisation and experience to establish a solid business with our customers”, Ben Botas says. Labels: 2Shirtsago, 81 Hours, Ben Sherman, Fortezza, Hamaki Ho, IBlues, Manuel Ritz, Mason’s, Moose Knuckles, NA-KD, NDC Made by Hand, Sand, Stefanel Ben And, Munich, Düsseldorf, Berlin/Germany, agency@ben-and.com, www.ben-and.com
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Die Hinterhofagentur is success fully creating a coherent range with established collections and new additions.
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In Düsseldorf, Anke Burkhardt invites the world to discover truly special labels, for instance Hiroyuki Murase’s Suzusan.
Modeagentur Anke Burkhardt
Special Things
Turning the same wheel forever is not Anke Burkhardt’s style. She prefers to reinvent it. It turns out the separation from a long-time partner was a stroke of luck. It allowed her to rethink her position and revaluate what her customers appreciate. The aim was to bolster her strengths and start into the new season confidently. Today, Burkhardt only picks battles she knows she can win in her newly defined capacity as a mentor and guide instead of an agent. Japanese Shibori techniques on knitwear by Suzusan, sensible ready-to-wear clothing by Mantù, unique jewellery by 17 Stephanie Schneider, avant-garde bags and leather accessories by Laura Angillieri, and modern hand-knitted cashmere pieces by Wommelsdorf - this list causes Burhhardt’s eyes to sparkle with joy. She is the perfect torch holder for these collections. She is capable of enthusing buyers and - if requested - consumers at the POS in a truly sustainable fashion, which means that the business develops quite naturally. There is no sell-in pressure. Burkhardt prefers to start small and grow hand-inhand with her partners. Düsseldorf, Milan, Paris, or Munich - she is more than willing to go the extra mile for everyone in her care. This doesn’t only apply to the labels she represents, by the way. She also takes special care of her retail partners, provides them with information, and often simply calls to check in. This makes her a person that is easy to trust. Those seeking truly special things know that all they need to do is pay Burkhardt a visit. In Düsseldorf, for example, one can attend the Salon Privé at her showroom from 5pm to 9pm. Exciting conversations with designers and brand owners are guaranteed. But that’s not all in terms of inspiration. Let’s not forget that the showroom is also always filled with people who complement Burkhardt’s aesthetic world perfectly. Labels: 17 Stephanie Schneider, Laura Angillieri, Mantù, Suzusan, Wommelsdorf Modeagentur Anke Burkhardt, Pahlen/Germany, info@ankeburkhardt.de, www.ankeburkhardt.de
Agentur Schwarte
New Armani
In the course of restructuring the Giorgio Armani Group, the brand portfolio has been streamlined. The Armani Jeans and Armani Collezioni collections have been taken off the market. Their creative input has shifted to the Emporio Armani collection, which is now sold in the European market alongside the Armani line. “I am delighted to continue working with Armani”, says Matthias Schwarte, who has taken over sales for Emporio Armani as well as Armani Exchange for Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg. In terms of pricing Emporio Armani as one of the company’s fashion lines lies below the main Giorgio Armani collection. Armani Exchange forms the commercial substructure in the competitive environment of CK Jeans, Boss Orange, and Scotch & Soda. Agentur Schwarte has been representing the Austrian label Weber + Weber for two seasons now, with a menswear collection that stands for slow fashion and is characterized by artisanal processing of high-quality wool and wool-loden manufactured in small Italian factories. The high-quality sneakers collection Hide & Jack is also made in Italy and has been under contract
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Slow fashion: The label Weber + Weber impresses with cool styles and artisanal workmanship.
with Matthias Schwarte in the German and Austrian markets for one season. The look of the welted leather sneakers is minimalist, with signature croc-patterns and braided details. Retail prices range from 189 to 219 Euro with a mark-up of 2.7 to 2.8. The brand Parajumpers features new designs and new product groups. There’s one definitive constant: The focus lies on functionality, which is continuously evolving. Labels: Armani Exchange, Emporio Armani, A Fish named Fred, AT.P.CO, Daniele Fiesoli, Fil Noir, Hide & Jack, Jet Set, Lodenfrey 1842, Parajumpers, People of Shibuya, P.G., Sundek, Weber + Weber Agentur Schwarte, Munich/Germany, office@agentur-schwarte.de, www.agentur-schwarte.de
www.luckydeluca.com
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Modeagentur Flessa
New Showroom
Claudia Flessa and her team have been selectively positioning upscale fashion brands for women in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland in the high-end segment since 1999. The fashion agency has now relocated to a large, light-flooded showroom which can still be easily reached from Munich. In a former horse stable, Flessa showcases three new Italian collections for summer 2018: merino knitwear by SottoMettimi, dresses, blouses, and skirts by Dotti, and scarves by Sara Cavadini. “Expressive designer labels are the fuel of retailers. In order for this to continue, they need to anticipate trends, shape the market, and differentiate from the competition. This is the only way that our labels can provide valuable impulses. Within an increasingly complex fashion cosmos, we offer orientation with trend-setting niche brands and create new incentives for customers. We are highly flexible and adapt to the changing customer needs. We still believe that the customer is king. We offer an all-round service package that is based on mutual trust and friendly cooperation”, Flessa explains. The agency will attend the Premium in Berlin and present its portfolio in showrooms in Düsseldorf, Munich, Milan, and Paris. Labels: 360 Cashmere, Charlotte Sparre, Dotti, Drome, Sara Cavadini, SottoMettimi Modeagentur Flessa, Buch am Buchrain near Munich/Germany, info@plessa.eu, www.flessa.eu The new showroom in Buch near Munich facilitates distribution in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland.
Relocations in both Munich and Düsseldorf - Agentur Ventrella has opened two new showrooms.
Agentur Ventrella
Housewarming
One worksite is taxing - two even more so. One can, however, not tell that Gaby and Michele Ventrella had their nerves frayed on more than one occasion now that the work is done. In Munich, the move to “Leopoldstrasse 184” means almost 200 additional square metres of area. This not only benefits the showroom, but also the back office. In Düsseldorf, the business has moved no further than the next building to “Kaiserswerther Strasse 119”. The new premises on the fifth floor offer the Ventrellas no less than 450 square metres to showcase their portfolio. The additional space is more than welcome, especially as there has been a fair amount of movement in terms of collections. Gaby Ventrella: “We perceive ourselves as the voice of retailers. We tell our suppliers mostly Italian brands - what the buyers are looking for. Due to their flexibility, we can offer retailers a high degree of innovation without having to introduce a new brand to consumers. It’s perfect when you find what you are looking for at an existing supplier.” Labels: 813, 820, Amuse, Avant Toi, Bazar Deluxe, Caliban, Gold Hawk, Giglielminotti, Leather Crown, Le Sarte Pettegole, NDV Project, Nove, Nine in the Morning, Su, Tagliatore, Tintoria Mattei Agentur Ventrella, Munich, Düsseldorf/ Germany, mode@agentur-ventrella.de, www.agentur-ventrella.de
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Zwei Raum
Two Under One Roof
Zwei Raum is a joint showroom of two fashion agencies in Salzburg: Rene Obojes’ Fabrik13 and Jürgen Lockinger’s Boxxoffice. The focus lies on street style by authentic brands such as Irie Daily, Wemoto, and Carhartt WIP. Many of the brands have their roots in board sports, but have long since arrived in the everyday world. Convinced that less is more, Zwei Raum specialises in brand building. “We strive to maintain a certain level sensitively and sustainably while remaining faithful to basics and customers. We turn our backs on the constant overload of fashion rubbish”, Obojes argues. “Keep it real” is the motto of both agencies. Makes sense, especially as some brands have been partners since the 1990s. Labels: Carhartt WIP, Dedicated, Happy Socks, Irie Daily, Kapten & Son, Moon Boot, Tom’s, Wemoto, Ziiiro Zwei Raum, Salzburg/Austria, office@fabrik13.at, www.fabrik13.at Zwei Raum focuses on collections with continuity and strong values. Pictured: Tom’s.
FTC CASHMERE SHOWROOMS DEUTSCHLAND, ÖSTERREICH, SCHWEIZ FTC Cashmere Rather Strasse 49c,Rote Halle 40476 Düsseldorf, Deutschland T +49 211 484 691 20
FTC Cashmere Agentur Mark Seebach Prinzregentenstrasse 95 House of Brands. Berlin 81677 München, Deutschland Rathenower Strasse 11 T +49 172 853 31 93 10559 Berlin, Deutschland T +49 30 767 665 13
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Collectionen Christian Teufl Vierthalerstrasse 11 5020 Salzburg, Österreich T +43 662 45 28 32
FTC Cashmere Ruessenstrasse 5a 6340 Baar, Schweiz T +41 41 767 27 37
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Peuterey has teamed up with Vespa for an exclusive edition of outdoor jackets that match the colours of the Italian scooters.
Michaelis Fashion Agency
Partnerships in all Matters
Chervo, a high-quality men’s sportswear line focusing on knitwear and functional fashion, is a new addition to Agentur Michaelis’ brand portfolio. Unlike the wellknown golf collection of the Italian brand, it is directed specifically at premium fashion retailers. It offers windbreakers and wind-stoppers with knitwear elements made of materials such as extra-fine merino, cotton-merino-cashmere blends, and business-friendly knitwear with elastane that utilise breathable membranes. The core price range in retail ranges from 179 to 349 Euros with a 2.8 calculation factor. “We stand for sustainable, predictable collections, no matter whether they are established or newcomers”, says agency owner René Michaelis. “We only work with brands that have recognised and accepted these new challenges.” René Michaelis has represented Peuterey in the southern half of Germany for 14 years. “We are the most continual and longest-running export agency for Peuterey worldwide. And we’ve been successful constantly”, he explains. In this order round, Peuterey offers an exclusive edition in collaboration with Vespa consisting of functional two-in-one outdoor jackets that match the seasonal colours of the Italian scooters. RRD Roberto Ricci Designs specialises in functional Italian premium outdoor jackets and is one of Michaelis’ most successful
newcomers in Germany. Yippie Hippie offers German-made cloths, tunics, shirts, and accessories. The brand is currently expanding the shirt and knitwear segments. Marlino relies on fashionable leather and lambskin items made in Europe with very soft and ultra-light qualities. “It’s no longer just about selling. It’s all about partnerships in all matters”, Michaelis points out. “How else could smaller specialised retailers compete with the diversity of their often unequal competition? We believe the demand in this respect will increase in coming years.” Labels: Chervo, Marlino, Peuterey, RRD, Yippie Hippie Michaelis Fashion Agency, Munich/Germany, mail@michaelis-fashionagency.com
Heritage Agents
Added Value
Lardini is one of Heritage Agents’ larger core collections. “Lardini has developed incredibly well”, says Michael Brockmann, who runs the fashion agency with Malte Kötteritz. “The brand from Filottrano started with suits and jackets, but now it also offers knitwear and shirts, as well as hats and shoes. A huge advantage is that the entire collection has been produced in Italy for the last two seasons.” Heritage Agents is the representative of Lardini’s menswear - and all the brand’s other collections - in Germany and Austria. They supply customers like Weitkamp, Beckmann, Wirschke, and Bungalow, as well as Dantendorfer, Reyer, and Helmut Eder. The agency’s portfolio also includes Mey Story, a daywear and loungewear collection that was presented at the Pitti Uomo in Florence on a new stand. “The perfect white t-shirt, hand-crafted in Germany, was merely the start”, Kötteritz explains. “After presenting its super-soft loungewear, the brand will offer super-light shirts made of Peru Pima cotton and sweats in summer colours as of the coming season: piece-dyed, natural, and lasting due to the perfect workmanship that is so typical for Germany.” Labels: 04651/, Lardini, Mey Story, PT, Xacus Brockmann & Kötteritz OHG, Munich/Germany, office@heritage-agents.com, www.heritage-agents.com In addition to its perfect white t-shirt, Mey Story now also offers piece-dyed shirts and sweats.
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Gallery Shoes/ Gallery
Solid Base
Industrial chic instead of exhibition halls - Gallery Shoes instead of GDS. With its own concept for the Böhler premises, Igedo Company attempts a new start for the shoe industry in Düsseldorf. The new Gallery Shoes will showcase the following segments on an area of approx. 10,500 square metres in various buildings: Premium (Kaltstahlhalle), Contemporary & Urban (Alte Schmiedehalle, Halle am Wasserturm, Altes Kesselhaus), Comfort (Federnfabrik, Alte Glühofenhalle), and Kid’s Zone (Blankstahlhalle). As of early May, 400 of the 500 targeted labels have already confirmed their attend-
ance. The Premium area will host the likes of Floris van Bommel, Calvin Klein, Candice Cooper, Pertini, and Primabase. Contemporary & Urban will showcase brands such as Buffalo, Camel Active, El Naturalista, Kangaroos, Lloyd, Maripé, Melvin & Hamilton, Paul Green, and Unisa. Agencies such as Gabi Heiniger and Evelyn Mutz will attend; they represent further international brands. The Gallery Shoes will offer a mixture of brand and concept stands. Some agencies will attend both the Gallery Shoes and the classic Gallery. The latter’s showroom concept in “Altes Kesselhaus” will - with approx. 20 agencies - be significantly larger this July. Some of the agencies will once again use the Gallery premises up to 14 days after the official event for order purposes. With exhibitors such as D-tails, Norbert Klauser, Die Hinterhofagentur, Wunschnaht, Moderaum Fischer, and The Last of the True, the Gallery already covers a wide range of brands. A total of 690 brands will utilise the Böhler premises, plus another 80 in the “Evening & Occasion” segment. Gallery: 22nd to 24th of July, Gallery Shoes: 27th to 29th of August, www.the-galleryduesseldorf.com
Greenshowroom/ Ethical Fashion Show
Green Fashion Shows on the Move
During the Fashion Week in July, Messe Frankfurt will move its two trade shows for fair and sustainable fashion into “Funkhaus Berlin” in the Oberschöneweide district. The new location is in the Treptow-Köpenick area and consists of four listed buildings in which almost 5,000 people worked during the GDR era. To date, the sound studios and broadcast rooms of the complex from the 1950s are booked by renowned musicians. Olaf Schmidt, the vice president of Messe Frankfurt’s Textiles & Textile Technologies division, says: “The new location represents a further milestone in the development and growth of our fashion trade shows. We are looking forward to the July edition of our trade fairs in ‘Funkhaus Berlin’ on the shores of the Spree. We are the first trade show operator to book the location and it offers fantastic development opportunities.” The “Funkhaus Berlin” will be further expanded as a cultural centre and utilised as a trade show location more frequently. A 4,000 square metre hall and the adjoining rooms offer the Greenshowroom and the Ethical Fashion Show sufficient staging opportunities for fashion shows and potential for future growth. The structure of both trade fairs is optimised in order to showcase the product range more clearly. There are plans to expand the shuttle service to ensure that the events are connected to the other venues of the Berlin Fashion Week. The large outdoor area next to the Spree River is a lovely place to relax during the day and can be used for evening events. 4th to 6th of July, www.greenshowroom.com, www.ethicalfashionshowberlin.com
Jörg Wichmann, managing director of Panorama Berlin. The Gallery Shoes in Düsseldorf in August symbolises a new start on the Böhler premises.
Panorama Berlin
“It’s All About Presentation!”
Round ten - the Panorama is celebrating a small anniversary and intends to continue building on its strengths this July. Jörg Wichmann, the managing director of the trade show, reveals the focus. The last trade show cycle in January once again proved the importance of trade fairs as an information tool for professional visitors. What exactly does the Panorama Berlin stand for? The Panorama Berlin is THE market place for fashion and lifestyle! It is where market-relevant brands and collections meet with trade visitors to exchange ideas, learn about trends, and get inspired - with the aim and purpose of generating business. To which segment do you pay special attention? Which one has - in your eyes - significant future potential? It’s not so much about a specific segment. It’s all about presentation. In this respect, we are convinced that our NOVA CONCEPT project is a retail form with enormous potential. It is intriguing and stimulates the passion for shopping; it offers the POS an opportunity to set itself apart from competitors by creating a setting with personality.
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One of the causes for the closure of the GDS was the fact that it tried to cover many segments. How can trade shows protect themselves from such mistakes? I am not sure if that was decisive for the closure of the GDS as we knew it. It is, however, true that our visitors don’t require a sourcing area. I don’t believe that it is necessarily bad to show a little of everything, as long as it is meaningful and market-relevant in terms of fashion. If what is shown is irrelevant, then quantity is irrelevant too. What is the Panorama Berlin particularly good at and which areas would you like to improve? We have succeeded in establishing a platform for all market-relevant brands within a short period of time. Such an event didn’t exist in Berlin previously. All exhibitors and visitors - from 96 nations - feel comfortable here. However, we decided against celebrating ourselves to mark our tenth event. Our exhibitors have devised something special for us, but that’s supposed to remain a surprise. 4th to 6th of July, www.panorama-berlin.com
ALPHA-STUDIO.COM
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The new motto of the Bread & Butter 2017 is “Bold”; it strives to embody courage, character, and individuality.
Munich Fabric Start
Added Time for Bluezone and Keyhouse
Bread & Butter by Zalando
To Be Continued
At the beginning of September 2017, the second Bread & Butter by Zalando will take place at Arena Berlin. At the first event, brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, Minimum, Levi’s, G-Star, Hugo Boss, and Mani, as well as Zalando’s own brands, showcased their respective ranges to interested consumers. Under the motto “BOLD” the Bread & Butter 2017 will once again address current trends in terms of fashion, music, and lifestyle - for all fashion enthusiasts. Brands such as Adidas, Alpha Industries, Converse, Lee, Reebok, and Vans are among the first to announce their participation. Carsten Hendrich, the VP of Brand Marketing at Zalando, says: “Last year we successfully started a new chapter for Zalando and the Bread & Butter. The trend show not only connected more than 20,000 visitors with their favourite brands and music, but also reached people in 15 European countries via digital distribution. In 2017, the motto ‘Bold’ will see us take the next step. We strive to celebrate the diversity and individuality of the fashion world together with our brands and visitors. We also want to perfect the utilisation of live communication channels, thereby establishing the Bread & Butter as a content platform for all European fashion enthusiasts.” Further details in terms of ticket prices, exhibitors, and programme will be announced over the next few months. 1st to 3rd of September, www.breadandbutter.com
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The Munich Fabric Start is an innovation and communication platform for more than 2,000 international visitors and one of the most significant trade shows in terms of fabrics and additionals worldwide. Due to the great acceptance of Keyhouse, a new format introduced last autumn, and the excellent customer frequency in the two Bluezone halls (All Star Mills and Catalyzer), these two segments are set for further expansion. Keyhouse is an exciting cooperation of science and craft, product and process solutions, and action and reaction, as well as ideas and implementations. Bluezone is a platform for more than 100 international brands to showcase their innovations in terms of denim, streetwear, and sportswear collections. “We have already received numerous inquiries for the next Keyhouse and Bluezone events, which is why we are considering expansion in those areas. The success of the respective formats has led to the decision to extend Bluezone - with the addition of Catalyzer - and Keyhouse, in its capacity as a centre of innovation and creativity, to three days from September 2017 onwards, in line with the duration of the Munich Fabric Start as a whole”, explains Sebastian Klinder, the MD of Munich Fabric Start. The next opportunity to view material and colour trends in Munich is during the View Premium Selection for the autumn/winter 2018 season from the 17th to the 18th of July in the MVG. 5th to 7th of September, www.munichfabricstart.com
Munich Apparel Source
New Trade Show for Manufacturing Sourcing Services
The Munich Apparel Source will take place for the first time this year - simultaneously with the Munich Fabric Start. Approximately 200 international producers will showcase their product spectrums, process solutions, and services in terms of manufacturing and sourcing. The trade fair targets European brands and retailers looking for reliable production partners with high quality standards. The declared aim of the organisers is to present new sourcing locations and their potential, solutions, and services. “Nowadays, many sourcing companies have developed A-Z process solutions. They cover both design and the entire production process, including the procurement of materials and ingredients. Therefore, it is only logical that these segments should be presented in their entirety and continuity. We are in the comfortable situation to be able to offer exactly that”, says Wolfgang Klinder, the managing director of Munich Fabric Start. Suppliers from North Africa, Asia, and Central and Eastern Europe, as well as from EU member states such as Portugal, are invited to present their products and services in the MTC. During the conference and seminar programme, international experts will involve insights into topics such as digitalisation and value chains, digital verticalisation, mass customisation, and 3D printing. A free shuttle service with the tight schedule will connect the MOC, the MTC, and the Zenith location. 5th to 7th of September, www.munichapparelsource.com
The next step of the value chain: the Munich Apparel Source.
Floris van Bommel 9th generation shoemaker since 1734
Berlin: Premium, Breitscheid: Pure Passion - SOC, Düsseldorf: Gallery Shoes, Supreme, Hannover: SOC, Mainhausen: ANWR First Order, ANWR Second, ANWR Fashion Day’s, München: Premium, Salzburg: Shoes & Bags, Schkeuditz: Shoe Time.
• 80 SAISONALE UND 30 BASIS MODELLE AUF LAGER • KOSTENLOSER VERSAND AB ZWEI PAAR • LIEFERUNG INNERHALB VON ZWEI TAGEN Kontakt: Sales Support (deutschsprachig), T. +31 13 51 36 930, E. vertrieb@florisvanbommel.com
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Supreme Group
“Monopolies are Boring” 10 years of Supreme - the fashion business has changed at a rapid pace in the last decade. What does this mean in terms of the role and positioning of the trade fair? The market is changing and positioning itself anew, just like the brands. Our order platforms represent a reliable, stable environment that not only showcases many regular exhibitors, but also new national and international collections. Many producers who utilise our platform find representation very quickly. Our agencies also present a varied range of collections every season. The wheel is rotating very fast and we are allowing it to do so. At the end of the day, our visitors are afforded an opportunity to discover a new, varied portfolio of brands on a regular basis. Was there a key moment in these 10 years? Do you have a special memory? Oh yes… A particularly important memory is that the exhibitors at our menswear trade show in what was then the MOC were crying out for an event in Berlin. I called Karl-Heinz Müller and asked him for advice. He invited me to Berlin immediately and told me the following: “Many people can cook many different soups, but the real art is to focus on one soup and turning that soup into a real experience of taste!” He was right. For quite some time, simply providing space is no longer enough to remain successful. What does an event such as the Supreme have to offer to survive in a massively competitive environment? Calling the competition massive is not really up-to-date anymore. Competition stimulates business. Monopolies are boring and don’t trigger emotions. It’s all the small things that ultimately make up the big picture. It’s all about personal contacts and sympathies. That should be important to everyone. I prefer to eat in a restaurant in which the chef welcomes me personally. The justification for trade shows and order events is constantly subject to critical discussions. What are the main arguments for the indispensability of such platforms? Well, I don’t think one should lump all trade shows together in this respect. In our genre, one wants to buy the high-quality collections personally and stand out from the crowd. The retail industry seeks individual collections in order to break free from the monotonous. This is indispensable. The foundation of the Supreme is a vital, optimistic specialised retail trade. How do you perceive the future of stationary
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The Supreme is celebrating its 10th anniversary. Aline Schade, the CEO of the trade fair, sat down with Stephan Huber to review the last decade.
“The retail industry seeks individual collections in order to break free from the monotonous.”
Alina Schade
retailers? What are the biggest challenges? What are the greatest opportunities? Without going into too much depth here - as this is a broad topic - we can see light at the end of the tunnel. The German retailers are currently reinventing themselves and there will certainly be further market consolidation. However, the retail trade will survive. At a forum in Germany, Vittorio Radice, the administrative chairman of La Rinascente, gave an interesting speech. He spoke about the centuries-old market places in the cities with their piazzas and such. They were indispensable. Human beings need their town halls, churches, and bazaars and will continue to need them for another 100 years. That makes us hopeful! Let’s turn our attention to the our focus on family businesses. Your own father mainly acts in the background. What are his tasks within the company? What did you learn from him? My father isn’t acting in the background at all; he’s in a different department. As a managing partner, he is in charge of the entire rental business in terms of the MTC in Munich and the B1 in Düsseldorf, as well as all
the external events in those locations. He is also involved in administrative matters. There is nothing that I didn’t learn from my father and I still learn more every day. Young people can always learn from the previous generation, especially in terms of serenity! A quick glimpse into the future… What are the plans for the Supreme? We want to offer the industry essential continuity and consistency, as well as a certain level of serenity. The Supreme Group is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. I’d like to thank everyone, both exhibitors and visitors! And to you, Stephan: We haven’t reached 20 years yet, but we will. Happy 20th anniversary!
SEEK Berlin, 04. - 06.07.2017, Booth A66, www.schott.eu Showroom: Fashion Factory, Fichtenstraße 70, 40233 Düsseldorf, ad@ffbymg.com, +49 (0) 211-31129901
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Show & Order at Kraftwerk Berlin
Add-ons
At Kraftwerk Berlin, the Show & Order presents a range of feminine-oriented collections. This year’s event focuses on what turns visiting a fashion store into an experience and complements fashion outfits perfectly; items such as cosmetics, make-up, lingerie, accessories, and jewellery. After all, watches, socks, and sunglasses have developed into real revenue generators in fashion environments, especially when complemented by interior design, gardening products, decorative cosmetics, fragrances, and tech-gadgets such as loudspeakers, chargers, docking stations, and phone cases. All these have turned into fashionable accessories a long time ago. On Kraftwerk’s upper floor, a 500 square-metre area is reserved for the Beauty Hot Spot, where exhibitors can showcase a variety of beauty products. The Beauty Conference by Sleek in collaboration with the eponymous magazine will address this topic on the 4th of July from 3pm to 5pm. In addition, there will be catwalk shows presenting make-up and hair styles involving models from Inselberg Models styled by Refinery29. In honour of the 20th anniversary of Gianni Versace’s death, the Show & Order at Kraftwerk Berlin has decided to organise an exhibition of original design pieces by Versace. 4th to 6th of July, www.showandorder.de
The focus of the upcoming Show & Order at Kraftwerk Berlin is on everything that makes an outfit perfect.
Pitti Immagine Uomo
Top-Range Special Guests
The visitors of the 92nd edition of the Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence were - once again - able to look forward to numerous highlights, a string of top-class special guests, and exciting events. The first show - on the eve of the first day - presented Hugo Boss’ Hugo line. “Hugo has always been our more progressive and trend-oriented brand. We were really looking forward to showcasing the spring/summer 2018 collection in Florence. The Pitti Uomo is one of the world’s most important platforms for menswear. It’s the ideal venue for showing fashion innovations and presenting the brand to relevant buyers and journalists”, says Ingo Wilts, the CBO of Hugo Boss. On Wednesday, JW Anderson presented his men’s collection in Italy for the first time. “I am honoured to have been invited to present the new collection at the Pitti Uomo. Florence has a marvellous aesthetic, which is the perfect setting for such a premiere”, says Jonathan Anderson, who is - among other things - also the creative director of the Spanish luxury brand Loewe. On Thursday, Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh not only showcased its men’s range, but also parts of its womenswear pre-collection, to trade visitors. Virgil Abloh, a 37-year-old American with Ghanaian roots, is not merely the creative director for Kanye West, but also an architect, DJ, and entertainer. In recent years, he has collaborated with artists such as Nick Knight, Riccardo Tisci, Kim Jones, Takashi Murakami, Olivier Rousteing, Giuseppe Zanotti, George Condo, and Fendi’s Silvia Venturini. www.pittimmagine.com Stylish appearance - season opener in Florence.
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Premium, Seek, Bright, Show & Order at Kraftwerk Berlin
Streetwear
First a niche trend, now a mass phenomenon - streetwear was once the prerogative of the skater community, but now dominates the fashion scene. The Premium Group commits to this phenomenon: at the Premium, Seek, Show & Order at Kraftwerk Berlin, and Bright, as well as its conference forum #Fashiontech. Streetwear has a strong influence in modern metropolitan areas and has become socially acceptable. The Premium Group picks up this all-encompassing trend and presents it differently - depending on the respective target groups - at its various trade shows. “Streetwear has developed into a global language that connects people”, says Anita Tillmann, the managing partner of Premium Group. “Young people communicate via streetwear looks just as much as finance directors who wear sneakers with their suits. We showcase this global language on our platforms, bring communities together, and support retailers in speaking the language of consumers.” The Premium trade fair at Station-Berlin presents Advanced Contemporary Fashion with new exhibitors such as Le Cap Paris, Muse by Rose, Poivre Blanc, Wanderlust, and Waste Studio. The Seek shows Urban Contemporary Menswear with collections such as Teva, Fila, The North Face, Ecoalf, Edwin, Ellesse, and Dickies. The Bright, dedicated to streetwear and board sports, takes place in Arena Berlin and welcomes exhibitors such as RVCA, Vans, Levi’s Skateboarding Collection, Ecko Unlimited, and Element. Last but not least, the Show & Order at Kraftwerk Berlin focuses on a feminine portfolio consisting of labels including Jo & Judy, Jumper 1234, Maluo, Anni Crisson, The Parka, and Hobo Shoes. The #Fashiontech, which takes place on the 5th of July, offers a glimpse into the future of fashion. It builds on the topic of the last event such as wearable designs and smart textiles, as well as digital marketing and networking solutions both online and offline. At the request of potential investors, the Start-Up Scene will be streamlined for reasons of efficiency. The Premium Group is also continuously developing its service portfolio. The Premium Group app is a compass for all the group’s trade shows and is supplemented by a B2B consulting service, the Easy-Travel-Package for visitors, and a Premium brand match tool that facilitates collection management. In combination with the app, the latter 217 style in progress
The spring/summer 2018 edition of the Premium Group focuses on streetwear. The trend is reflected in the collections of all trade show platforms: the Premium, Seek, Bright, and Show & Order at Kraftwerk.
enables GPS-aided navigation through the trade fair halls. In addition, the group offers a shuttle network between the events and other fashion hot spots in Berlin. The network also includes the Berlin-Tegel airport. The Premium Group is among the leading trade show organisers in Europe. Its three exhibition formats in Berlin showcase approximately 1,800 brands, of which 81% percent hail from foreign shores, on an area of 51,000 square metres in three different locations. 4th to 6th of July, www.premiumexhibitions.com
“Streetwear is more than a trend; it is an emotion that reflects the global zeitgeist.” Anita Tillmann, managing partner of Premium Group
th e m a r ke tpl a ce for fashion and lifestyle
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Cotton Citizen Colour Me Beautiful
Pure Colour - this is the motto that Adam Vanunu, the founder and creative director, chose when he set out to revolutionise the cotton basics segment in 2011. His collection focuses on vibrant tones and a powerful palette that is set in scene with colour and finishing trends. Batik and dyeing techniques within the label’s own production plant in Los Angeles play an important role in the fashion line that is anything but basic. Each item is unique and enjoys a special place in the label’s boutique on Melrose Place. During the current order round, Cotton Citizen showcased the summer flash collection that will be delivered in April/May. The main collection for men and women, which consists of 100 pieces, will follow in July. It includes t-shirts in the typical Cotton Citizen colours pink, yellow, and ice blue. The purchase prices for t-shirts range from 29 to 39 Euros, while sweats cost 99 Euros. The calculation factor is 2.7. Jades, Hechler & Nickel, and The Listener are among the customers in Europe. Cotton Citizen, Los Angeles/US, T 001.310.965.0529, mikey@cottoncitizen.com, www.cottoncitizen.com 217 style in progress
Brown Allan Exclusive in Europe
Directly from production plant to store Brown Allan processes high-end natural fibres such as cashmere, yak, and merino wool to manufacture urban casual looks. The driving force behind the New Yorkbased label is Zhongyin Cashmere, a company that also owns Todd & Duncan, a business known for the production and finishing of high-quality yarns. Agentur Griesinger recently added approx. 50 Brown Allan pieces for women and men to its portfolio. The look is defined by casual knitwear with comfortable fits. Boyfriend sweaters, hats, and casual jogging pants are complemented by knitted jackets and pants made of comfortable materials. Due to the competence of the label’s in-house yarn production in the luxury segment, it can deliver on short notice and is able to work with unusual materials such as yak wool. The retail prices range from 189 to 369 Euros; yak wool products cost between 299 and 499 Euros. The calculation factor ranges from 2.7 to 2.9. In the current season, German retailers such as Apropos and Lodenfrey ordered Brown Allan. Zhongyin Apparel LLC, New York/US, info@brownallan.us, T 001.212.2210021, www.brownallan.com, office@griesinger-mode.de, www.brownallan.com
ATM The Perfect Shirt
ATM has a reputation for offering the perfect shirt. It’s super-soft, durable, and - above all - it has a perfect fit. This was Antony Thomas Melillo’s intention when he founded the label bearing his initials in February 2012. Melillo has since successfully developed an entire lifestyle collection for men and women consisting of luxurious casual wear made of materials such as high-end cotton, silk, and cashmere from Peru. The collection from New York is listed at the likes of Barneys, Saks, Neiman, Bergdorf, and Nordstrom, as well as on Mytheresa.com. The strongest market is Asia. The purchase price of t-shirts is 39 Euros, while sweaters cost 100 Euros. Knitwear starts at 140 Euros, while leggings and pants cost approximately 80 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 2.7. One of the European sales partners is Brama Group. Brama Srl, 41122 Modena/Italy, T 0039.059.251664, info@brama-group.com, www.atmcollection.com
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Kendall + Kylie Celebrity Alert
The likelihood of fashionistas not being infected with the Jenner virus is almost zero due to social media exposure. So here it is - the fashion collection of the power sisters from the Jenner clan. Since 2013, Kendall + Kylie has united the different styles of the sisters who are among the most important fashion influencers worldwide. The 100-piece collection is as feminine and edgy as its creators. The colour palette includes black, white, red, rust, and olive. The collection is characterised by classic silhouettes from the 1990s in a mix with more modern streetwear. In terms of materials, it offers rip knits, mesh inserts, Ottoman stitches, neoprene, velour, and cut-out details. Bestsellers are dresses, pants, and blouses. The purchase prices for shirts start at 35 Euros. The core prices range from 82 to 120 Euros, while the most expensive leather jacket costs 470 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 2.7. The collection is delivered in August and September. On a global scale, the label is listed at the likes of Luisa Via Roma, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, and Harvey Nichols. In Germany, the collection is available at stores such as Jades, Breuninger, KaDeWe, Anita Hass, and Richy Mode. Kendall + Kylie, New York/US, T 001.646.710.4507, sales@kendall-kylie. com, www.kendall-kylie.com
Once We Were Warriors Post-Apocalyptic Nili Lotan Tel Aviv Meets New York
Nili Lotan, an Israeli designer, has been living in New York since the 1980s and has lead design teams at companies such as Ralph Lauren. In 2003, she decided to launch a label under her own name. The result is a simple, timeless, and trendy collection that has convinced leading retailers, fashion journalists, and celebrities. Famous fans are the likes of Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Christy Turlington, and Julianne Moore. In Europe, the collection can be ordered via a showroom in Paris, where Studio Pezzetta, the agent for the German-speaking markets, schedules its order meetings. Lotan adheres to the typical rhythm with pre and main collections. In terms of pricing, Nili Lotan is part of the upscale premium segment. The purchase prices start at 30 Euros for shirts, 200 Euros for cashmere, and 150 Euros for trousers with a calculation factor of 2.7. Extraordinary denims are a new addition to the product range; the items are manufactured in LA. The rest of the collection - except cashmere items - hails from New York. Nili Lotan, New York/US, T 001.212.2190651, sales@nililotan.com, www.nililotan.com
Try to imagine the calm before a battle, when the adrenaline starts building up slowly until it drowns out all other sounds. In true samurai style, Once We Were Warriors (short: OWWW) starts with a man and his beating heart. In real life, the man is a passionate streetwear designer who prefers to remain unidentified to avoid distraction from the inspiration and story of his label that he founded with Co Lab of Amsterdam in 2016. The label signature, which symbolises a rising sun, can be found on every style within the collection. The focus is on neutral colours and pure materials that are as functional and comfortable as a second skin - perfect for facing the battle with everyday life. There are four collections per year with a main and flash collection each. The retail price for a hoodie is 159.95 Euros, while a bomber jacket costs 249.95 Euros. A pair of trousers sets one back 79.95 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 2.6. So far, the label is listed at 32 retailers in the Nether lands, as well as at five in Germany. The German retailers include the likes of Boyz R Us Berlin and Bailly Diehl. OWWW also has a few points of sale in Spain, Belgium, and France. More to come‌ Co Lab Amsterdam, 1018 LE Amsterdam/ The Netherlands, b.deklein@co-labamsterdam.com, www.owwwamsterdam.com style in progress 217
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AA-Altuner Ateliers Pieces of Art
Aviator Nation Surfin’ Spirit
Paige Mycoskie, the founder of Aviator Nation, lives and loves the Californian lifestyle that she has known from her earliest childhood memories. Her grandmother ran a denim retail store in the 1970s. After working for her brother, Blake Mycoskie, at his footwear label Toms for years, Paige decided to launch her own label in Venice in 2006. She tested her concept at Californian street style fairs and the success was striking. Her vintage look is characterised by music, surfing, outdoor sports, and festivals. Last but not least, the label cooperates with the Austin City Limits Music Festival. Now the label has its own stores in Abbot Kinney/ Venice, Laguna Beach, Malibu, Manhattan Beach, and San Francisco. The next shop in typical surfing style is planned in Aspen. The cool, everyday outfits for men, women, and kids are now also set to conquer Europe. All items are manufactured in California. The label offers hoodies, sweatshirts, tees, pants, outerwear, and accessories such as trucker caps and bags. The retail prices for tees are approximately 75 Euros, while jackets cost approximately 150 Euros. Hatch Showroom, Los Angeles/US, T 001.213.532.8818, info@hatchinc.com, www.hatchinc.com, www.aviatornation.com 217 style in progress
Combining high-tech, craftsmanship, and fashion design in luxurious scarves and cloths is the underlying idea of AA-Altuner Ateliers. The label was founded by Benay Altuner in 2015. The designer and textile engineer, who also studied architecture, has an artistic and technical approach to her work. The graphics of the elaborately manufactured accessories - mostly scarves and cloths - are designed on the computer. They range from paintings to three-dimensional digital prints that come to life on silk and high-end cotton. All scarves are handcrafted, partly utilising a traditional craftsmanship technique called “wet felting”. The process involves organic suds and olive oil. This results in real “pieces of art” that can - in some cases - be fastened with invisible magnets without having to be tied. Altuner utilises two components for the items of her current collection: silk with goatskin suede or Australian merino wool as a decorative border. All items are manufactured in Turkey and Germany. Altuner attaches great importance to the production methods that she teaches her employees. She also creates jobs for refugees in Germany and Turkey. A portion of her profit is passed on to charity. The purchase prices range from 86 Euros for a Carré silk cloth to 180 Euros for a Carré silk cloth with handcrafted borders made of merino wool. The corresponding retail prices range from 259 Euros to 490 Euros. Altuner Ateliers, Frankfurt/Germany, T 0049.176.43309330, info@altunerateliers.com, www.altunerateliers.com
Redirection Style with a Message
Uncomplicated looks and catchy messages - Redirection, a label based in Düsseldorf, focuses on high-quality and “clean” shirts, as well as sweaters and jackets with embroidered messages such as “betterdays” and “freedomfighter”. Redirection was launched by Anne Sybille von Berswordt-Wallrabe one and a half years ago. Previously, she had worked in the fashion and luxury products industries for ten years at the likes of Marc O’Polo, Montblanc, and Tiffany & Co. “It all started with a little doodle on the wall of a café in Cologne. On a day during which literally everything went wrong, I spotted the words ‘smile sometimes’ on said wall”, the designer reveals. “I saw these words as motivation to start working on my own label and they were also the inspiration for my first shirts and sweaters.” Her collection consists of approximately 50 pieces, which can be ordered all year round. The purchase price for shirts is 42.50 Euros, while sweaters cost 53 Euros. The retail prices are 119 and 149 Euros respectively. Redirection is listed at stores such as Lindner Fashion Dortmund, La Bottega Weinheim, Sigrun Woehr Karlsruhe, and Konen Munich, as well as in markets such as Belgium, Holland, Austria, and Denmark. The new sales representative in Germany is Torsten Müller’s Room Nine Agency. Redirection, Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.8903616, write@redirection.de, www.redirection.de
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GRLFRND Denim For Girls Only
This is a collection for the It-Girls among us: Californian denim inspired by the looks of the 1980s and 1990s. This means elaborate sexy cuts, high waistlines, striking washes, embroidery, and patches. GRLFRND specialises in authentic denim without stretch material. The styles, inspired by vintage looks, offer a perfectly balanced fit. The Instyle magazine commented: “The Holy Grail of jeans - these denims create the ultimate sexy bum!” The typical GRLFRND girl embodies a “model off duty”: casual and complicated, yet sexy and stylish. The different fits are named after famous models such as Kendall, Cara, or Naomi. The autumn 2017 collection consists of approximately 30 pieces. The purchase prices range from 120 to 400 Euros, for example for the heavily machined and refined pair of jeans with patches and embroidery. The calculation factor stands at 2.7. Unifa is the label’s sales representative in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. The list of customers currently includes retailers such as Anita Hass and Stilfläche. GRLFRND Denim, Los Angeles/US, T 001.213.265.7980, sales@goodsandservicesnyc.com, www.grlfrnd-denim.com 217 style in progress
Elina Lebessi Sunny Crete
The creative duo behind the summery collection consists of designers Elina Lebessi and her daughter Nitta Mitsopoulou. Lebessi studied at the renowned Studio Bercot in Paris and worked for designers such as Christian Lacroix before launching her own label. Her daughter graduated from Parsons in 2014 and together they initiated a new long term project supporting Greek artisan crafts. All items of clothing, accessories and shoes in the “Greek collection” are made exclusively in Crete by small handicraft businesses. The look is summery, laid-back, and reminiscent of sunny days at the beach. The colourful sandals are made of traditional materials such as leather, with friendship bracelets, coins, and pearls adding a contemporary and unique twist to this affordable collection. Purchase prices range from 40 to 60 Euros for sandals and from 4 to 58 Euros for accessories and clothing. Lebessi has an existing international client base including Harvey Nichols, Iris, Anthropology, Bergdorf Goodman, Net-á-porter, and Le Club 55 in France. Elina Lebessi, Athens/Greece, elinalebessi@gmail.com, www.elinalebessi.com
JN by JN LLOVET Bohemian Style
A designer goes on a trip around the world and has a special leather jacket made by a tailor in far-away La Paz: black and cropped, with pink inner lining and patches. She gets so many compliments for it, she launches her own project. The story of Jacqueline N. LLovet Garcia’s label is short and sweet. She studied in Paris, is now based in Hamburg, and her style reflects her love of travel: traditional prints from Guatemala, Hmong fabrics from Thailand, Kutchi belts from Afghanistan, and Wayuu bags from Colombia. There is a focus on statement nappa leather jackets with applications, made by a small family business in Europe. Purchase prices start at 350 Euros. There is a varying selection of vintage army jackets and denim jackets, which can be personalised with applications and embroideries. Accessories complete the range. The purchase prices for items such as sweats start at approximately 35 Euros and reach up to 150 Euros for denim jackets. These extraordinary pieces are currently available at Shopbop, Queen for a Day, or at Fetiche Suances in Spain. JN by JN LLOVET, Hamburg/Germany, T 49.40.53301988, post@jnbyjn.com, www.jnbyjnllovet.com
www.bloom-fashion.com
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Rails Hollywood Style
(Early) retirement was unsatisfying. Stateside is the new playground for the passion of Moise Emquies, the founder of Splendid. It comes as no surprise that Stateside is all about the perfect T-shirt; this particular item of clothing has defined the entrepreneur’s entire life. The label’s name is no coincidence. All items of the collection are not only designed in LA, but also manufactured within a radius of ten miles from Stateside’s headquarters. Pigment dyeing not only creates the beautiful, slightly washed out colours, but also ensures that the products are very soft to the touch. In addition to shirts in all variants, Stateside also offers dresses, blouses, sweats, and casual pants. Purchase prices start at 30 Euros; the calculation factor for the German-speaking markets stands at 2.7. Studio Pezzetta is responsible for the brand’s distribution in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. Agency owner Caro Pezzetta: “Stateside has perfect timing. Many customers are crying out for a fresh T-shirt and casual wear label.”
It all started with a black hat on which Jeff Abrams embroidered the inscription “Rails” before making his way across America to visit the most relevant fashion stores. It seems his style hit a nerve. The people at Fred Segal were thrilled and asked for more. The next item to be launched was a black hoodie in a cool vintage style, which was seen on Matthew McConaughey a little later. The success story had begun. Nine years later, Rails is a contemporary complete collection for men, women, and children that embodies the lifestyle of Southern California. The focus is on the material and its special feel. This also applies to button-down shirts for women, which are unlike most conventional models - made of a flowing Tencel material with a cashmere touch and are typical for the collection from Los Angeles. Rails has 1,200 points of sale across the globe. The strongest export markets are Canada, the UK, France, Belgium, and Australia. MAB, a Düsseldorf-based sales agency, has just started offering the label in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. The purchase prices range from 27 to 137 Euros, while the retail prices range from 69 to 369 Euros.
Stateside, Live Fashion, London/Great Britain, T 0044.207.6132275, catherinew@livefashion.net, www.livefashion.net
Rails Los Angeles, Los Angeles, CA 90015/US, T 001.310.9864230, info@railsclothing.com, www.railsclothing.com
Stateside Homemade
217 style in progress
Penn & Ink N.Y. Inspiration New York
In Brooklyn/New York, Mark and Felice de Lorme stumbled upon Penn & Ink, a label founded in the 1960s by Maureen J. Penn and Stanley Ink. “Penn was the one with the creative mind, while Ink was the businessman”, Mark de Lorme says. The success of the original label was brief. Nevertheless, Mark and Felice de Lorme liked the name and decided to revive the label in the summer of 2011. This was the birth of the new label Penn & Ink Brooklyn New York. The label’s womenswear is uncomplicated, wearable, and comfortable, but always exudes a sporty chic. A constant component of all collections is a proven stretch travel quality, for example in jackets and blazers, skirts, and jogging pants. Penn & Ink offers six collections per year - two pre-collections, main collections, and limited collections. The average purchase price is 40 Euros with a mark-up of 2.7. The label has 300 customers in its Dutch homeland and 400 more abroad. The collection is supplemented by eyewear and footwear. Penn & Ink N.Y., 8131 TW Wijhe/The Netherlands, T 0031.570.5235274, media@pennandink-ny.com, www.pennandink-ny.com
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066 WANT iT
SevenDayWonder Self-Evident
With the Italian label SevenDayWonder, Romeo Bertoncello, formerly Nolita and RARE, and his wife Catriona Hoolahan attempt a promising new start. Why is this sure to be a home run? Product expertise when it comes to blouses, a nose for design and the seal of quality, Made in Italy. “When you find out who is behind SevenDayWonder and you see the first sketches, you’re bound to be amazed,” says Stefan Wittmann of Agentur Stefan Wittmann. He has recently signed on the label for distribution in Germany, Austria and Switzerland, and he is thrilled. What SevenDayWonder is all about: A collection focused on tops that appeal to women of all ages. This feat could certainly be a success. The style is feminine and expressive without ever feeling over-designed. Only natural fabrics such as high-quality cotton, rayon, linen and silk are used, which speaks for a comfortable fit. The garments are manufactured to 100 percent in Italy: starting with the fabric, and the worldwide protected prints that are designed in-house, to the finished product. This can be an advantage in a very competitive market with blouses and tops occupying the top spots in fashion. Behind it all is the family-owned Happy Tadpole Ltd, which in turn has given the license for SevenDayWonder to New Service SRL in the Italian Tombolo, Padova. New Service created a specific Fashion Brands Division within the company for SevenDayWonder. The former owners of the successful brands Nolita and RARE hold important positions: Catriona Hoolahan is the division’s commercial & marketing director, and Romeo Bertoncello its managing director. Style director Michela Bertoncello is responsible for the design. “At the time the labels Nolita and RARE were doing extremely well, especially with blouses and tops,” says Stefan Wittmann, who was formerly responsible for both collections in mid-central Germany. The intention is for SevenDayWonder to pick up where these two brands left off. Aside from valuable industry contacts and product competence, the brand fields a maximum purchase price of 50 Euros and a mark-up of 2.7. The brand is currently in the process of building an international distribution network for the first season. “We are well represented in our home market in Italy with top agencies covering all eleven regions”, says Catriona Hoolahan. Rever Import Moda SL is in charge of SevenDayWonder in Spain, Best Honour Corporation Ltd in China. The representative in the Benelux countries is Smashbox, while M&L Harris covers the UK. Stefan Wittmann handles Germany, Austria and Switzerland, cooperating with Agency Sandra Mindner in Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg as well as KMK Fashion Agency in the North. Stefan Wittmann was able to get a corner booth in hall 1 for SevenDayWonder at the Berlin Premium. “The people at Premium were very impressed and were able to provide me with the booth at the last minute,” says Stefan Wittmann. “Now I hope to be able to convince the customers.” New Service SRL, Tombolo/Italy, T 0039.049.5999288, catriona.hoolahan@happytadpoleltd.com, www.sevendaywonder.eu 217 style in progress
. 2017, 8 . 1 3 10.6. -e pop-up storaer. nswe aDeW K r wome o o l f d 2n
the end of the world as you know it. This is not your next same-same. Discover the new way to grow your business. Get in touch with the farm. the fashion and retail managers.
Get in touch: grow@thefarmbyaco.com www.thefarmbyaco.com
068 WANT iT
Any Luxurious Cashmere
Ama Brand Sneak Preview
The abbreviation “Ama” stands for two designers from Florence. Two life models, two mindsets, fashion, art, and fantasy are the ingredients of this sneaker collection. Seven lines each for women and men are available as part of an NOS programme. In addition, the label offers a flash collection consisting of six models. The purchase prices of the Italian-made shoes range from 65 to 75 Euros. “It’s a unisex running shoe with vintage flair for the man or woman who desires to feel at ease on every occasion, comfortable and always in style”, the two designers explain. Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz’s D-Tails is the label’s agent in the German-speaking countries. “It’s a top product with little risk for retailers due to the NOS programme. The label also offers constant fashionable updates. Perfect!” Ama Brand, Florence/Italy, commerciale@ama-brand.com, www.ama-brand.com 217 style in progress
The Any collection was launched in autumn 2016. It offers all-year cashmere basics and classics for men and women. “The driving force behind the collection is Erdos, one of the world’s largest cashmere producers”, says Toni Groenendal, whose agency markets the brand in the German-speaking markets and Holland. 70 percent of the world’s cashmere comes from Inner Mongolia and 30 percent is provided by Erdos. The company not only raises the stock, but also designs and produces in-house. “The Any collection manages to balance luxury, quality, and uncompromising sustainability”, Groenendal adds. “For example, the wool is washed sparingly and the yarns are dyed in an environmentally friendly manner. Furthermore, Erdos ensures that the goat herders are not exposed to fluctuations in the global cashmere market.” The purchase prices for sweaters range from 60 to 80 Euros with a mark-up of 3.0. Customers can choose between cashmere qualities between 18 and 22 Duvet in diverse colours and several yarn thicknesses. In addition to pure cashmere, one can also order cashmere silk and cashmere cotton. A new addition for autumn/ winter 2018 is a luxurious collection named Yama Hooc, which was created by a German design team, consisting of cashmere items and high-end blends. Erdos also manufactures private labels for key accounts and for third-party brands. Toni Groenendal Modeagentur, Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.4543498, fashion@toni-groenendal.eu, www.any-cashmere.com
White Sand Italy Meets Orient
A quintessential Italian story: from making trousers in the heart of Central Italy since 1979 to deciding not to do so just for other companies. That is the story behind the label White Sand, an expert in the field. Expertise meets modern design in a compact collection for men and women with the kind of fashionable pants many distributors are looking for. White Sands offers a compelling range with purchase prices between 50 and 65 Euros. The current designs draw inspiration drawn from oriental influences featuring a generous leg width, decorative ornaments and airy materials. The label’s name is a reference to the white beaches along the Italian coast and the carefree beach lifestyle. This is again reflected in the logo of the company, which is decorated with a small fish. GDM srl, Forli/Italy, T 0039.054.194.5203, info@groupdesignmoda.com, www.white-sand.it
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070 WANT iT
Saint Jaimes L’Atelier A Little Piece of France
The inspiration: the sea, the coast, between Normandy and Brittany. The label Saint James is an emblem of striped shirts and sweaters. The predecessor of today’s fisherman sweaters was made from close-knit scoured wool to keep out the North Atlantic wind and rain. For decades, Saint James made clothing for seafarers and the French Navy, until the striped shirts and sweaters made their way into the fashion world. Today the nearly 130-year-old company is an Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant - living heritage company - and the iconic striped shirts are an authentic part of France. The heritage collection line Saint James L’Atelier follows nautical fashion with timeless basics made in France from soft, easy to wear fabric. Another standard that remains unchanged is the label’s traditional craft production and high-quality processing for special durability. The purchase price for T-shirts ranges between 17 and 24 Euros, men’s pea coats cost 145 to 155 Euros and women’s between 104 and 166 Euros, at a mark-up of 2.6. There are 900 points of sale worldwide, which include Saint James stores in Paris, New York and Strasbourg, a German store on Sylt - plus commercial customers such as Ela Düsseldorf and, as of August, Bube und König in Nuremberg. Tricot Saint James, Saint James/France, T 0033.2. 33891569, stan@saint-james.fr, www.saint-james.fr 217 style in progress
Timothy Everest Totally British
Timothy Everest founded his tailoring company in London’s East End 25 years ago. His ambitious goal was to fulfil the wishes of the world’s best-dressed gentlemen. In 1993, Everest opened his atelier in Spitalfields in Elder Street, which was soon followed by his own store in close vicinity to the renowned Savile Row. In the latter, he presents all three Timothy Everest lines: made-to-measure, bespoke, and - since 2015 - the ready-towear line Tailored Casual. In addition, he also offers shirts and accessories. Tailored Casual is defined by traditional craftsmanship and sophisticated styling. The range includes parkas and jackets made of Harris Tweed, unconstructed Ventile jackets, tapered Selvedge jeans, and Oxford shirts made of Japanese chambray. The fit is paramount, which explains why celebrities like Ralph Fiennes and Benedict Cumberbatch, as well as female style influencers like Tilda Swinton and Amanda Harlech, appreciate the brand so much. Florian Ranft and Henrik Soller have been appointed as the sales representatives for the Tailored Casual collection in Germany and Austria. In line with the label’s capacities, their approach is highly selective. A price example: the purchase prices for trousers range from 80 to 90 Euros with a mark-up of 2.7. Timothy Everest, London/UK, T 0044.20.38027008, marklemon@timothyeverest.co.uk, www.timothyeverest.co.uk
NA-KD As Seen on Instagram
It seems we need to get used to the fact that brand building in the fashion industry now starts in social media. NA-KD is such a case. The brand, which was originally intended to be a private label of the eponymous online shop, exploded on Instagram & Co. This is reason enough to enter the wholesale segment. After establishing itself in Sweden, NA-KD has now set its sight on the German-speaking markets. The representative in those markets is the fashion agency Ben And. The first feedback from retailers is sensational. “Many customers already knew the brand from Instagram. It is modern, young, cool, and commercially priced. The brand is perfect for the entry price range of premium stores”, Ben Botas explains. The portfolio consists of a line with a classic rhythm (strong in both pre-order and re-order), certain instant-delivery items, and regular capsules collections in collaboration with famous bloggers. Such a collaboration is also planned for the German market. More to follow… NA-KD, Gothenburg/Sweden, T 0046.706.266604, wholesale@na-kd.com, www.na-kd.com
072 WANT iT
Suzusan A Master of Craft
Five Seasons Swedish Coolness
Suzusan, Modeagentur Anke Burkhardt, Pahlen/Germany, info@ankeburkhardt.de, www.suzusan.com
Five Seasons, Västra Frölunda/Sweden, T 0046.318.959.00, info@fiveseasons.se, www.fiveseasons.se
Something to stand in front of in silent admiration: Hiroyuki Murase, the creative mastermind behind the label Suzusan, has known the unique art of shibori since childhood. It has been a part of his family in Arimatsu for five generations. The technique was originally used for kimonos. The details and patterns are created by tying, basting and folding the fabric after dyeing it. Hiroyuki Murase adapted the technique for his collection: As a trained artist - he studied sculpture and architecture in England and Düsseldorf - he succeeded in combining shibori with objects and items of clothing. In 2008, he founded the label Suzusan together with his former roommate Christian Dietsch in Düsseldorf. Thanks to his background in business administration he is the perfect counterpart to Hiroyuki’s artistic soul. The first collections involved just scarves and blankets, quickly followed by “Luminaire”. The lamps feature a clear-cut design with three-dimensional shibori fabric on light metal frames and were quick to make their way into important interior design hubs. Next, unisex cashmere pullovers were added - perfect in their style and with brilliant colours. The designer travels to Japan regularly to visit fabric manufacturers whose products rarely find their way onto the Western market. The collection has been expanded step by step to include T-shirts, shirts, blouses, and sweaters, with a special focus on the different feel of the materials used. “I’d love to let customers walk through the collection with their eyes closed at first so they can feel the different fabrics, the different weights.” The quick, visual appeal of colour, motif and form dominate when we shop, but we later wear the clothes on our bodies. The sensory experience of fabric on the body is vital for a piece of clothing to turn into a favourite,” says Hiroyuki Murase. The two annual collections (unisex, ladies’ and menswear) are presented in Milan, Paris, Düsseldorf and Munich. Purchase prices range between 70 Euro for shirts and 325 Euro for knits with a mark-up of 2.7 to 2.9. Reorders during the current season are possible. Very practical: Produced in Japan, supplied from Düsseldorf punctuality guaranteed.
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Five Seasons of Sweden has been supplying high-quality and functional sportswear for skiing, outdoor activities, golf, and sailing for more than 30 years. The brand’s models are defined by Swedish coolness, technical know-how, and a high degree of functionality. With a focus on function and fit, the design team from Italy, Germany, and Finland further develops their design language constantly. The aim is to meet the requirements of the most demanding athletes. Waterproof materials, detachable inner jackets, detachable hoods, and stretch materials are therefore paramount. The purchase prices for jackets range from 33 to 65 Euros. The corresponding retail prices range from 89.90 to 179.90 Euros. The ethical attitude of the company is defined by CEO Eric Johansson’s three Ps: “People, Planet, Profit”. The focus of the company philosophy is the welfare of all stakeholders, an ecological and sustainable production process, and an attractive price-performance ratio.
LOS
ANGELES
074 WANT iT
Mr. Boho The Style of Kurt Cobain
An An Bloom Back Again
The name brings back many fond memories. The hand-embroidered scarves of Angelika Paschbeck of Fummel + Kram were truly enchanting. This brand no longer exists, but luckily elements of Paschbeck’s design language can be found in the new label An An Bloom. The brand was founded by Paschbeck and Andrea Harisch in Kitzbühel at the beginning of 2016. It celebrated its premiere at the White trade show in Milan in February 2017. The ten first customers include household names such as Frauenschuh Kitzbühel, Modestrom Zurich, and Avantgarde Beverly Hills. The project itself is rather unconventional. Some of the products are unisex; the pieces don’t adhere to seasons and are 100 percent hand-crafted. The fabrics - linen, silk, and velvet - are embroidered, printed, and painted by hand. The few cuts can be ordered in all available fabrics. Retailers can even request individual editions. An An Bloom, Kitzbühel/Austria, angelika@ananbloom.com, www.ananbloom.com 217 style in progress
Four friends had the idea to found a label that offers quality sunglasses at competitive prices. They created Mr. Boho and launched their first range for the spring season of 2013. Their test market was Italy, the country that truly epitomises sunglasses. Within two weeks, they sold 400 of the 600 manufactured sunglasses. Today, Mr. Boho operates in 20 countries and is listed at retailers such as Le Bon Marché Paris, Aida Shoreditch London, El Corte Inglés, Soho House Barcelona, Beams, and Rosebud of Japan. The brand name derives from “Boho-Chic”, a term that stands for a casual style with a touch of glamour. The collection offers classic designs with noticeable innovative elements. The latter include, for example, the use of colours, geometrical patterns, and various materials. There are two collections per year, each with ten models in 100 variants, as well as two capsules. One of the capsules, named Teen Spirit, pays homage to Kurt Cobain’s iconic sunglasses. The purchase prices range from 28 to 36 Euros with a mark-up of 2.5. Mr. Boho now also offers a new line of optical sunglasses consisting of six styles, as well as five watch models. The brand showcases its range at the Seek and at the Panorama’s Nova Concept platform. Mr. Boho, Madrid/Spain, T 0034.67.1238905, ik@mrboho.com, www.mrboho.com
Parka London Homage to an Icon
Where, if not in London? In 2012, designer Fiona Mills launched the brand Parka London - and the name is synonymous. “We are not about fast fashion, but a timeless, affordable quality garment that has been designed to ensure you can treasure it for years to come. Our signature is redefining a classic coat our way to give you effortless style when you throw it on, but still has a modern aesthetic”, Mills says. The label’s founder believes that the parka is the iconic element of every wardrobe. Consequently, the collection diverges from the common seasonal rhythm. The brand offers all-year styles, as well as seasonal summer and winter models. The purchase prices start at 85 Euros (225 Euros in retail) and are therefore comprehensible and democratic. The label is marketed internationally from the head office in London’s Kentish Town via specialised fashion retailers. D-tails is the sales representative for the German-speaking countries. Parka London, London/UK, T 0044.7903.583879, tristan@parkalondon.com, www.parkalondon.com
suzusan mantù 17 stephanie schneider laura angellieri wommelsdorff
Und als Gäste begrüßen wir in Düsseldorf unter anderem: BASE MARK - entspannte Konfektion aus Japan - Anne-Marie Herckes - Mini-Couture aus Luxemburg - Elke Bauer - Keramik aus München - Hirota Glas - aus Japan Düsseldorf Sky Office, EG, Raum Saturn Zugang über Bennigsen Platz 21. – 25. Juli München Prisco Haus, 2. Stock rechts 04. – 08. August Salon Privé im Showroom Düsseldorf, Sky Office, EG, Raum Saturn Sonntag, der 23. Juli, von 17 bis 21.00 Uhr Einmal kurz innehalten – Designer und Macher persönlich kennenlernen – Geschichten stricken – Tapas essen – die Kirschen aus Nachbars Garten für sich persönlich kaufen – einen Apéro trinken – miteinander ins Gespräch kommen – Freude haben
mob + 49 171 5466885 tel +49 4803 601194 fax +49 4803 601261 mail info@ankeburkhardt.de www.ankeburkhardt.de
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2017 berlin
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078 THE LONGVIEW
Daniel Grieder: “Digitalisation Makes Stores Exciting Again.”
217 style in progress
THE LONGVIEW 079
style in progress 217
080 THE LONGVIEW
Daniel Grieder has probably never worn rags - whether he has made it to riches is probably not even important to him. His career - that led him from being the co-owner of a small sales agency in Switzerland to the helm of global player Tommy Hilfiger - still has a touch of the old American Dream. After all, the essence of said dream is to attempt the seemingly impossible and thus making it possible. Talking to style in progress, Daniel Grieder gushes about how much fun it is to work in the fashion industry, appeals to everyone to see digitalisation as an opportunity, and encourages change. Interview: Stephan Huber. Photos: Tommy Hilfiger
I wasn’t aware that you were such a good rower. I suppose stamina and endurance are still very important to you today?
I wouldn’t use the term “good”. I rowed, that’s all. I wasn’t bad on a national level in Switzerland, but never quite good enough for international success. But was it a good preparation for the intense rowing required in our turbulent industry?
It definitely was. In my profession one needs strength, endurance, and willpower. The same properties one needs in sports.
You’re probably fed up with hearing it, but your professional career sounds like a magical fairytale. Why is Daniel Grieder the CEO of Tommy Hilfiger Global today?
You have to ask others about that. You know my story. I never planned it to pan out like it did. I had my agency with Tom (Editor’s Note: Riffel), which I still co-own today. I was actually very happy and had very little interest in a sparkling career. At the time, the management of Tommy Hilfiger approached me and asked whether I could one day envisage managing the brand’s European business. I was 40 years old, so at an age when you are still open to making a change. I discussed the matter with Tom and asked him if he could imagine running the agency alone once I’ve moved to Amsterdam. We reached an agreement and that’s how it all started. I moved to Amsterdam in 2006 and started making a 217 style in progress
banker friends would rather work in the fashion industry. In the past, that may not have been the case. Back then, they were all proud to be bankers. Today, the tables have turned.
name for myself in Europe. I was named COO - and later CEO - of Tommy Hilfiger Europe. Honestly, I didn’t expect it myself, but it happened anyway. It seems like I did a few things right.
Do you mean because of the image problems of banks?
Your career is truly extraordinary, even in an international context. Nevertheless, one needs to say that the awareness of such developments in other sectors is much higher. If you had a comparable position in an automotive company, your career would have received significantly more media attention. Is this not a sign that the media and the public still have a rather ambivalent relationship with the fashion industry?
There isn’t a single industry in which a Swiss manager is the CEO of an American corporation. I believe this is the most unusual aspect of my career, especially as Americans tend to appoint fellow Americans as CEOs. I find it quite extraordinary that I managed that despite being Swiss. In terms of recognition, I really enjoy my profession and I consider myself very lucky. I can honestly say that my job is also my hobby, so I really don’t care whether it is perceived as prestigious or not. I do what I need to do and I enjoy it. The fashion industry has changed drastically, also because of improved technology and digitalisation. I find it all very exciting. It’s becoming more intense and there’s always a new, exciting challenge just around the corner. Many of my
Yes, that can’t be much fun. They have to adhere to so many regulations that they can hardly move. Whenever they tell me about it, I realise that I have more fun working in the fashion industry.
Yes, I’ve been saying the same about the fashion industry. It’s actually a very normal business, but more enjoyable and with more beautiful women.
Exactly! That’s another bonus, yes.
How did the contact to Tommy Hilfiger come about? I mean when you became the representative of Tommy Hilfiger Sportswear…
“Many of my banker friends would rather work in the fashion industry.”
At the time, my agency was representing Pepe Jeans in Switzerland and Austria. Pepe was then taken over by an American company that - quite coincidentally - was also the owner of Tommy Hilfiger. I didn’t even know that was the case. Even then, I was already a huge fan of Tommy. I spent a lot of my vacations in the US. I always bought Tommy merchandise when I was in America and was very eager to introduce the brand to the Austrian and Swiss markets. By chance, I asked the Pepe owner if he knew how to establish contact with Tommy. He told me that I could talk to him directly.
082 THE LONGVIEW
The digital showroom is the result of Daniel Grieder’s conviction that innovation always prevails.
40 Swiss agencies applied to represent the brand, but I was sure that I’d win the deal easily. However, I had to go through the entire process and stand my ground against the others. Thank goodness, we won the contract in the end. I remember sitting in a showroom in Salzburg with you. You told me to keep my fingers crossed for you.
That’s exactly what happened, yes.
Back then, Tommy Hilfiger was an American brand in every respect. Funnily enough, Europeans perceived the brand in the context of Hip-Hop music. Did that make your task more difficult or was the hype correct?
The trademark of Tommy was its preppy American style. And that was the goal - to create a brand that offers basics with a twist. After a few years - quite by chance 217 style in progress
“Isn’t it exciting that one can actually change the industry in this way?”
- this particular urban market started to identify with this style. For example, Snoop Doggy Dog wore a Tommy sweater during one of his live shows. It was an overnight sensation and the brand exploded.
It became quite difficult around the turn of the millennium. What were the reasons for the problems?
Tommy started back in 1985. In 1992, the company was listed on the US stock exchange, mainly because its revenue had exploded in those seven years. Many businesses make the same mistakes in such a situation. They come under pressure, because they strive for good results and profits in the short term. The so-called dictate of the quarterly reports…
Exactly… That’s when one changes the original strategy and does things one really shouldn’t. From when Tommy started, it
only took 10 years for the turnover to reach two billion. Due to the brand drifting away a little from its American preppy look, it soon experienced a certain over-distribution, and it lost its relevance in the US. I think that’s an adequate summary of what happened. What’s much more exciting: How was the crisis mastered?
In 1997, we started from zero in Europe. We have positioned the brand exactly as it was originally planned. We built the plan cleanly - with the correct distribution model and margin. We didn’t over-distribute. This also helped in terms of rebuilding the brand in America. In 2006, Tommy Hilfiger was taken over by Apax and delisted. We were under less pressure and that gave us a chance to reposition the brand globally following the European model. During the economic crisis of 2009, it was
084 THE LONGVIEW
The European-American cooperation in the Tommy Hilfiger headquarters in Amsterdam is proving to be highly successful.
a huge help not to be listed on the stock exchange. We were able to rebuild and expand step by step. We focused on price-performance ratios and improving the product. We invested in new campaigns, distribution, shopin-shop areas, and the entire retail area. We had both the time and money to build the brand cleanly. Doesn’t this mean that the stock exchange isn’t suitable for fashion companies?
I wouldn’t make a sweeping statement like that. I believe it’s true if you haven’t got experience. We returned to the stock exchange in 2010 when we were taken over by PVH. With our current experience level, we are handling ourselves very well as a company despite being listed on the stock exchange.
Today, Tommy Hilfiger is - in the truest sense of the term - a global brand and certainly profits from globalisation. Free trade is even being addressed at a G20 meeting these days. How does a company that operates in 100 countries perceive this socio-political debate?
We are proud to be a global brand. We almost perceive ourselves as pioneers. Global business has a positive impact on all countries in which we operate. We have a strong reputation, not least in terms of corporate responsibility. We 217 style in progress
adapt to regional circumstances and respect them.
One of the most exciting Tommy Hilfiger projects is the digital showroom and subsequently the digital store. What was the impetus for this project?
The truth is that the weather report on TV was what sparked the idea in me. There’s someone standing in front of a large screen and explaining how the clouds are coming in from the West and the rain from the East, and so on… I thought that it would be absolutely awesome if we could talk about our brand in that way and show buyers what the brand is all about in terms of the next season’s trends and topics. Instead of wandering through a showroom with a buyer, it would be so much more exciting to allow a buyer to sit down in front of a huge screen. I figured there must be a way to create a cinema-like environment in which one can showcase the brand and its collections. How difficult was the implementation? After all, this concept breaks with systems that have been in place for decades…
It was really difficult, but I was obsessed. No, I was just convinced that it was the next logical step, especially as the online business is going from strength to strength. Young people are accustomed to shopping
“The stationary retail trade remains indispensable in many respects, but it needs to change.”
on a screen. And the youth of today are the buyers of tomorrow. They are no longer willing to slump to their knees and do the merchandising on the floor. So I assembled a team of five and told them exactly the same as I just told you. All five agreed that it would be great, but also agreed that it would be difficult. I stuck to my guns. I’ve always believed that we simply have to make the impossible possible. They came back the next day and said: ‘Daniel, we’ve thought about it. It’s a great idea, but it will never work in the textile industry.’ I nodded and called in the next five people - a team consisting of salespeople, marketing experts, IT workers, etc. ‘Daniel, it won’t work in the textile industry.’ So I assembled a third team. They came back the next day and said: ‘Daniel, we have no idea how to do it, but we will make it possible.’ With this very small team, I created the project step by step. We tested it thoroughly and interviewed hundreds of our own sales experts. After that, we started optimising it. We interviewed customers and showed them the project. We only contacted the press and integrated the project into our showrooms once we were sure that it was perfect. And I swear that we haven’t had a single customer who didn’t love it. Everyone who has used it once, won’t look back. The new system is much faster and gives
086 THE LONGVIEW
Profitable partnership - appointing supermodel Gigi Hadid as global brand ambassador for Tommy Hilfiger was a stroke of genius, not only in terms of media attention.
you a better overview. Let’s not forget that it also allowed us to reduce sample collections by up to 85 percent. The ecological and economical advantage is that we no longer have to mail or fly in samples. We are now much more efficient and need less space in the showroom. That’s an improvement in all areas. The haptic experience remains. We produce sample books that allow customers to touch all fabrics. So the digital store was the next logical step?
Yes, I see three elements. We started with digital sales. Now it’s time for the next step. We are already in the process of designing digitally. The design department then sends it all on to the digital showroom. The digital showroom then sends it all on to the production plants. Just imagine how much time this saves! I am absolutely convinced that the digital sphere will also establish 217 style in progress
itself in stores. I believe that certain elements will be integrated in stores. One doesn’t need so much space anymore and can present everything digitally - that’s such an asset! Imagine a 150sqm store that can’t stock every colour. In the future, even a smaller store will be able to offer the entire collection.
The project was first presented at January’s Pitti Uomo. How was the feedback?
It was stunning. We showcased individual elements and the digital pop-up store. This wall can be erected anywhere - at the airport, in a particular store, or in a city. The people almost fell over. For me, digital is the new normal. The world is changing rapidly and this is only the start of it. Isn’t it exciting that one can actually change the industry in this way? Today’s stores are no longer about sales per square metre. It’s all about surprise. The
“The greatest risk is not taking risks.”
success formula of the future is: “Surprises per square metre”. The digital transformation has redefined the industry. We were one of the first brands to implement this. Whatever you saw at a fashion show was available instantly. It’s all about reaching customers all over the world and connecting with them both online and offline. A store now has to be more than a store. It needs to develop into a place where customers enjoy spending time. We’re investing heavily in this.
Your concept returns the digital sphere and e-commerce to the physical point of sale. Is this a confession that one still needs the bricks-and-mortar business in the age of digitalisation?
The stationary retail trade remains indispensable in many respects, but it needs to change. I think digitalisation helps to make stores exciting again. The
THE LONGVIEW 087
A strong duo - Tommy Hilfiger and Daniel Grieder dare to dream about the company’s digital future.
boundaries between online and offline are dissolving. Those who want and live change will continue to do good business tomorrow. Has the digital store already been implemented in shops other than your own?
We had Tommy-Touch at the Pitti; the concept allows you to buy basics. The demand was so huge that it created a bottleneck in the production department. Our digital wall and/or digital table are being integrated into our shop-in-shop areas - not only in our own stores, but also in the shops of our partners. We offer modular solutions in different dimensions. After all, the systems need to be functional and affordable for smaller retailers too. Has all of it been developed in-house?
We didn’t develop the hardware. Ultimately, the task of integrating it all into a wall or table falls
to us. We have a fantastic team that is really eager to promote developments. We are in the process of building a “House of Innovation” in Amsterdam. You need to imagine it like Mister Q and James Bond. This is where we develop and implement all these innovations. It’s like a toy store.
The digital project was your catalyst for returning to a trade show…
We decided to showcase what we can offer the digital world and retailers at the Pitti Uomo. My aim was to make a real statement. It was a huge success. Seeing that it went so well, we decided to return to the trade show once more.
Doesn’t this prove that - despite digitalisation - one still needs to talk face-to-face on a regular basis?
Yes. I found it very pleasant and you’re right. The two of us have
often discussed how one could reinvent trade shows. It’s no longer enough to merely present your collections. However, I do find it exciting to talk about what has changed and what one can offer customers in today’s fast-paced world. Does this mean that our industry is essentially still a “people business”?
Yes, definitely… All eight billion humans on this planet wear fashion. Consumption isn’t declining. Only the channels will change. If one understands how to motivate people to wear one’s clothes, then it’s a people business. So is digitalisation merely a tool?
Exactly. It’s a tool that should make it easier to convey a story to customers.
humans are becoming faster, and communication is faster than ever. Obviously, speed is a major factor. The second factor is innovation. One needs to allow innovation in one’s own company, in one’s own collection, and in one’s own store. The third factor is digitalisation itself. Internally, I always promote the motto “Speed - Innovation - Digitalisation”. These are the three factors that we need to focus on in the future. Naturally, all three factors also involve risks. One needs to try new approaches all the time. If it works, integrate it. If it fails, go back to the start. This is a constant process that evolves constantly. The greatest risk is not taking risks.
What will shops look like in 5 or 10 years?
The world is rotating faster, fashion is becoming faster, style in progress 217
1997
Content is King... since 20 Years!
The big style in progress anniversary issue out on 18 october 2017
Celebrate with us! stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at
090 WHAT'S THE STORY
SUCCESSION
“Family” is an almost mythical term. Over the centuries, it has often been inflated, abused, and reinterpreted. What is quite interesting historically and socially is that the dictum of the “smallest cell of society” was actually enshrined in the family code of the German Democratic Republic in 1965. During election campaigns such as the ones we are (more or less) looking forward to in Germany and Austria, the family is always a central topic. Everyone emphasises its importance,
The Backbone of Society Why one cannot overestimate the importance of family businesses. An opinion piece by Stephan Huber
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wants to “promote” it, and - at the same time - utilise it. The latter is, of course, never openly admitted. Let’s leave all this talk aside, as well as the ongoing discussions about how “family” should be defined. We humans are quite capable of making our own minds up. The far more interesting question is why we still accept what we understand as family - both individually and in all our diversity - as a special asset and an irreplaceable element of our society. The answer is actually very simple. It’s because we believe - and justifiably so - that within the family solidarity and conscientiousness are not merely for the moment, but long-term and sustainable. True, it doesn’t always work out this way. That’s how it goes when humans are involved. But this doesn’t detract from the validity of the basic principle and its overall social importance. In Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, family businesses generate more than 50 percent of the economic output and secure more than 60 percent of jobs. In Germany, they have contributed almost 20 percent to all newly created jobs since 2006, while DAX-listed companies merely contributed slightly less than 2
percent. A dictum, that we will hear and read again and again during the upcoming election campaigns, rightfully describes family businesses as the “backbone of economy”. In fact, the importance of these companies - not only the larger international ones - cannot be overestimated. This importance goes far beyond the aforementioned indicators and can be justified in almost the same way as the unique position of families explained earlier. Family businesses think and act in different timeframes. Despite the need for competitiveness and their drive for success, growth, and profit, these companies don’t merely focus on the moment, the next quarterly report, or the logic of the financial markets. They are, so to speak, the preservers of the (social) market economy that not only was - and still is - the catalyst of economic advancement, but also the foundation for social reconciliation and peace. This model of success is coming under increased pressure due to a globalisation process that was long misunderstood and therefore handled incorrectly from a political point of view. Today, it needs more supporting pillars than ever. Emphasising this was one of the reasons for the main focus of this issue of style in progress. After all, the fashion industry harbours more family businesses than most. We wanted to know what motivates them, what challenges they face in modern competition, and how the often difficult transition from one generation to the next can be achieved.
THE SUCCESSORS The fashion retail trade is predestined for successions within the family. If one has a life’s work built with passion to pass on, it can be difficult to let go. Talking to style in progress, both generations explained the way the balancing act between the young and the old can succeed. Text: Martina Mßllner-Seybold, Nicoletta Schaper. Illustrations:Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler 217 style in progress
WHAT'S THE STORY 093 SUCCESSION
FRICTION Creates Energy Stefanie Walser, managing director of Modehaus Walser Hohenems “I want to inject new ideas into our store without ignoring the existing features. One needs to allow for errors, which is especially apparent in the buying process. Every season, we both gain experience and make mistakes, but we never blame each other if something doesn’t work out. One needs to be allowed to test one's limits! I love working with my mother. We spend a lot of time together, even outside the company - even though the latter is omnipresent, to be fair. I can benefit from her wealth of experience. For the most part, it all works harmoniously, even though we argue quite often and experience some friction from time to time - the latter especially in the early days. But it always generated energy and brought us further. Seeing that I am about to become a mother myself, I appreciate the fact that I can rely on her 100 percent and that the company will be run with passion during my baby break.”
ONE GOAL
Inge Walser, managing director of Modehaus Walser Hohenems “We pull in the same direction with the same goal in view. In this respect, clearly defined tasks and responsibilities are paramount. A respectful relationship with each other is equally important - let the young ones work, but ensure that the opinions of the old still count. We make many decisions together and we never implement anything with which the other can’t live. We talk a lot about alignment and product ranges; we always find a consensus. However, it took a while until we became a well-established team and found our respective roles! It’s a pleasure to be able to hand over the business to your own child. And it’s even better when you see her being so successful!”
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094 WHAT'S THE STORY SUCCESSION
Extreme Change Matthias Moser, managing director of Föger Woman Pure Telfs “My parents wanted me to gain experience outside our company. That’s why I ended up working in many different countries for an international conglomerate. That was an experience that I wouldn’t want to miss and which I consider necessary to be able to survive in today’s professional world. In 2015, my mother handed me an established, innovative fashion store that is well-known beyond Austria’s borders. That alone fills me with pride! I learned a lot from her, even if I do some things differently than she would have done. Given the fact that I was working in a completely different industry until six years ago, many people probably thought I wasn’t capable of continuing a women’s fashion business successfully. However, that motivates me even more to continue my mother’s success now and in the future. I believe it’s always better to be underestimated than overrated. Today, my mother remains my most important source of advice. The handover has created an even closer professional and private connection; that also benefits the company. The extreme change experienced by the fashion industry and the retail sector in general is certainly the greatest challenge. I perceive the launch of our online shop as an important expansion step, but - like my mother - I still believe in the offline business too. However, we mustn’t forget the most important factor: our business is all about people and emotions. We need the right consultants, salespeople, and stylists to serve incredibly well-informed customers, who are unfortunately also subjected to too many stimuli and goods. Capturing the attention of such customers requires much more effort than it used to.”
THE RIGHT TIMING Midi Moser-Föger, Föger Woman Pure Telfs “In my opinion, one is well advised to let go at the right time in order to afford the next generation an opportunity. At the time of the handover, I was 66 years old - or young? I am pleased to say that I can now devote some of my time to my private interests. It also makes me happy to see that my son is so curious, hard-working, and committed. He has already mastered the digital challenge successfully. I wouldn’t have been able to deal with that anymore; it would have overwhelmed me. Business life is, after all, a continuous learning process and always a risk. It was the same during my time. Running an enterprise means being ‘enterprising’. I am convinced that the bricks-and-mortar fashion business can coexist with the online world with good leadership, professionalism, and great willingness to work on innovations diligently. The challenge of the person handing over is naturally very emotional - and also risky - within the family. Handing over your own successful life’s work requires the conviction that the successor is capable of leading the business into an equally successful future. My challenge was to detach myself gradually. I believe letting go becomes more difficult the older you are. One shouldn’t miss the right moment.”
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SEEING THE WORLD Nicola Schönherr, Schönherr Boutique & Sporthaus, Neustift im Stubaital “For me, it was always clear that I wanted to enter my parents’ sport and fashion business. I’ve always enjoyed this line of work, which is why I laid the foundations early by studying textile business management in Nagold. Working elsewhere before returning home was very important and my parents always encouraged me to do just that. It was clear to all of us that I needed to see the world before returning. The different point of view I gained during my time in sales is very useful today. When we started discussing my return to the family business, I was adamant that I needed my own area of responsibility. My demand was met by first handing me the responsibility for the fashion store before adding the hardware business of the sports store. I appreciate the exchanges with my mother, especially as we are very similar characters. The fact that we are both ‘alpha animals’ can create some friction, but we enjoy an excellent conversation culture and are able to sort things out fairly quickly. In general, I believe that the succession process was really positive. The only downside is that the business can sometimes creep into your private life.”
Allow Freedom
Patricia Schönherr, Schönherr Sporthaus, Neustift im Stubaital “We always wanted our children to be free. My husband and I endured a very different experience. Our path into the parental enterprise was pre-determined. Naturally, we were delighted when Nicola found her place at Schönherr and that she is so enthusiastic, competent, and independent in doing so. I highly appreciate that her entry has injected a new dynamism into the business. This also allows us to enjoy a freedom that we’ve never had. We can now, for instance, take longer trips. I am, however, very eager to grant her the same freedom, especially as she will be a mother herself soon. I want her to have enough time for her child and still allow her to be in the store whenever she chooses. For us, an orderly handover was always paramount. We defined precise rules, pegged precise areas of responsibility, and introduced Nicola to all business areas gradually. When the succession process is finally completed in five to six years, I intend to pull out of the fashion and sports business completely. Then, I will focus exclusively on our hotel.”
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098 WHAT'S THE STORY SUCCESSION
CHALLENGE AND JOY Sonja Rogger-Furrer, owner of Phänomen Mode & Lifestyle, Phänomen Lucerne “I perceive handing over responsibility to my daughters, Laura and Marina, as a mixture between joyful and challenging. It’s a challenge, because I love my work. I enjoy buying menswear. It’s all the more pleasing to see how well new ideas and labels perform and how they invigorate our product range. My husband and I probably wouldn’t have considered taking such little risks. Seeing how my daughters tackle challenges with joy and commitment means that joy definitely prevails. It’s a good feeling to know that what we have built will continue to exist in the future.”
Balance
Laura Rogger, management board member at Phänomen AG, Phänomen Lucerne “It’s not easy to find the right balance between the new ideas of the young generation and the experience of my parents. My sister and I introduced some new brands to appeal to a younger clientele, even though my parents weren’t overly enthusiastic about it. However, some brands are performing really well and it’s great to see that we have managed to gain new customers, among them friends and acquaintances. This, in turn, encouraged my parents greatly. They were happy to see that we have our own network. Mistakes are part of the game. Some new brands failed to live up to customer expectations and had to be withdrawn from the product range. We are learning constantly. As a family, we work together very closely. It’s great fun, but it can create friction. As a family business, it’s great to receive positive feedback from all sides - be it from customers, suppliers, friends, or employees.”
217 style in progress
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EXPERIENCE Meets Digitalisation Anna Pircher, Pircher Moden KG “I have been part of the family business for two years now and I am thrilled that I can bring all my theoretical and practical experiences gained during my studies in Nagold, as well as during my previous professional career, to the table. I am very lucky that my mum is very open to all my ideas. For example, we are currently quite successful in communicating via Facebook. The internal WhatsApp group, of which all employees are members, also adds extreme dynamism to the company and makes us all feel like a real unit. In addition, we have jointly introduced a new, more efficient budget planning model, thus optimising product management even more. In turn, I find it very interesting to see how vital my mum’s experience is for the company. Merely utilising Facebook and other new media channels doesn’t make a company successful, you know? The quality of my mum’s leadership is the most impressive aspect in this respect. It’s so enjoyable to see how enthusiastic and motivated the 16 employees of our multi-brand store in Ellmau and the mono-brand stores in three Tyrolean towns are on a daily basis.”
MY SPARRING PARTNER Andrea Pircher, Pircher Moden KG “Anna is a positive sparring partner for me. Four eyes are better than two eyes, both during the order process and at the PoS. The unprejudiced, honest opinion of my daughter is a breath of fresh air and her input sometimes forces me to leave the trodden path. This is good for the business as a whole and she’s often right. Without the presence of my daughter, the company would definitely be less dynamic and we wouldn’t have opened the new format of Pircher Moden KG, namely the multi-label store in the seasonal town of Ellmau. When I started off in the industry 35 years ago, I turned my hobby into a profession. I still feel the same way today and I can sense that Anna feels the same way too. That connects us. We enjoy talking about the business, even in a private setting. We enjoy our work, after all. Such an atmosphere breeds the best ideas, especially with our respective partners from the fashion industry.”
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102 WHAT'S THE STORY SUCCESSION
Vision
Gustav Schauer, Schauer Moden, Bad Ischl “I myself took over the business from my parents and learned from the experience. The most difficult aspect is probably the dissolution of the tension between tradition and zeitgeist. Clothing and fashion need to remain in line with the times. Nevertheless, the history of our company is a significant part of its identity. Whenever I was tempted to question Angelika’s plans and decisions, I reminded myself that we did exactly the same at the time. Everyone is eager to go with the times and grow with the tasks. Everyone wants to develop and implement their own visions.”
ZEITGEIST
Angelika Schauer, managing director of Schauer Moden, Bad Ischl “My father is, of course, referring to the women’s fashion store PoeSie 1895. That store was my first larger, self-imposed challenge. Even though it was something completely new in Bad Ischl, I basically upheld the strategy of my predecessors. The general idea was to create zeitgeist-related added value that complements the existing ranges at the best addresses in town. I am very proud - and highly grateful - that my parents were willing to accompany me on this path and supported my idea to add a little internationality to Bad Ischl, both in terms of fashion and ‘Tracht’. Nevertheless, our company is more than a fashionable textile retailing business. The craftsmanship, for which I have always admired my father, remains an integral part of the past and the future.”
217 style in progress
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104 WHAT'S THE STORY SUCCESSION
“My parents have given me their vote of confidence, but that doesn’t mean that I don’t have to deliver”, says Andreas Weitkamp. He took over the business from his parents, Veronika and Karl-Jürgen Weitkamp (photo left).
Weitkamp and Modehaus Schnitzler, Münster Many Balls in the Air The Schnitzler and Weitkamp fashion houses celebrate their 125th anniversary this year. Today, Andreas Weitkamp is leading the family business into the future. He wfocuses on maintaining existing values without standing still. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Weitkamp
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At noon there’s a hustle and bustle on Münster’s “Prinzipalmarkt”. The audience is fairly mixed in terms of age. Schnitzler is quite busy too. After all, the generously spaced 2,000 square-metre fashion house offers a wide range of products. It successfully balances the needs of both older and younger customers by stocking brands such as Odeeh, Dorothee Schumacher, Closed, Drykorn, Bogner, Moncler, and Stone Island. “Generally speaking, we strive to increase the degree of fashion to further sharpen our profile”, says Andreas Weitkamp, who took over the company from his parents in 2012. The business consists of the original store, a Van Laack store, and an online shop.
A Special Legacy
Andreas Weitkamp’s inheritance is a very special one. What began in 1892 as a specialist store for umbrellas has grown into a store for premium fashion that is now run by the fifth generation and its 130 employees. The parents, Veronika and Karl-Jürgen Weitkamp, have played a decisive role in the company’s success since the 1970s. The mother - with her unfailing fashion sense - was the heart and soul of the business in terms of customer relations. The father - with his commercial and analytical acumen - acted in the background. “They always worked as a team”, he explains. As a teenager, I had very little to do with the business. One day, my parents asked me to help
on the sales floor. That’s when I realised how great this job is.” Andreas Weitkamp joined Engelhorn for an apprenticeship and worked as a substitute in the menswear department for two and a half years. “We were asked to give power point presentations in front of the management board in the first year. One learns a lot that way”, Andreas Weitkamp says. At Engelhorn, he not only learned all technical skills, but also what the owner-managed retail stores are really about. He then deepened his knowledge at retailers in Vail, Colorado, and Munich. “Owner-managed retailers have a very special relationship with their customers. That’s something one needs to want - and be good at.” After five years
WHAT'S THE STORY 105 SUCCESSION
The fashion houses Mode Schnitzler and Weitkamp are among the most distinctive destinations for premium fashion, even far beyond the city limits of Münster.
of managing Schnitzler and Weitkamp together with his parents, Andreas Weitkamp was given full responsibility for the business without any restrictions in 2012. He never perceived this as a burden and his parents only give advice when they are asked expressly. “My father was in favour of an online shop, but I was unsure whether we could mirror what we offer in our store online”, Andreas Weitkamp explains. “After some time, our long-standing manager Michael Wiemer and I came to the conclusion that we should offer a coherent range and expand our online presence gradually. Today, I am convinced that we must also promote the customer proximity that we stand for online.” Audacity and Respect
What else is needed to secure the future of a 125-yearold business? Weitkamp is convinced that traditions aren’t the key. “I feel much more connected to our values such as audacity, curiosity, tolerance, and respect.” The Weitkamp dynasty has always cultivated
this attitude, as old advertisements for Schnitzler prove. For example, an advertisement from the 1990s shows Veronika Weitkamp with five employees. The slogan is: “We employ many foreigners, including the boss.” It also requires courage to invest in aspects such as the web shop and a customer magazine. Three years ago, the company invested heavily in the redesign of the original store, thereby creating a larger area dedicated to children. At the beginning of the year, the Weitkamp menswear store re-opened after an extensive refurbishment. It now boasts 270 square metres of sales area, a large shop window to the front, and a convincing range of contemporary sportswear. Values and Vision
Andreas Weitkamp does his job with dynamism and verve. He always has an excellent sense for how much vision is needed to ensure that his stores remain important fashion destinations. Just like his father and grandfather, he dedicates time and effort to numerous business-related lobbying groups such as
an inner city initiative, a group of restaurateurs, an association of building owners, and a local retail initiative. The aim is to strengthen Münster as an attractive business location. “We are doing a lot for this city with ‘Münster Marketing’ and an economic initiative. For example, we are pushing for the use of uniform street signs and try to ensure that restaurants don’t use sun umbrellas with advertising”, Weitkamp explains. The website of Mode Schnitzler states: “Everything is in motion and that’s good!” Andreas Weitkamp naturally shares this approach. “I think the ability to keep many balls in the air is probably one of my greatest talents.” style in progress 217
106 WHAT'S THE STORY SUCCESSION
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WHAT'S THE STORY 107 SUCCESSION A NEW TWIST
A New Twist Everything new - everything different? An up-and-coming generation is a breath of fresh air within the company; it repeatedly challenges past achievements and traditions. What changes when a new management takes the helm? How can two generations collaborate successfully? And how can one prepare oneself for the handover? There’s hardly a challenge that is greater than passing on a company into different hands. Only having to follow in oversized footsteps as a successor can prove more difficult. After all, the succession process is a huge undertaking. On the one hand, one needs to preserve what has been achieved while, on the other hand, reinvigorating the business with new impulses. As the following stories prove, these new impulses are imperative for securing the future of a company. This is the only way to lift a company’s development to the next level. Text: Stephan Huber, Martina Müllner-Seybold, Nicoletta Schaper. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler. Photos: Companies
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108 WHAT'S THE STORY SUCCESSION A NEW TWIST
Schott N.Y.C American Icon No other label embodies the leather biker jacket quite like Schott N.Y.C.. The driving force behind the label is a textbook example of a family business. It is currently managed by two generations that are both keen to make the classic iconic styles immortal and to adapt them for the future. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Schott
It all began in Manhattan in 1913 when Irving Schott started going door-to-door in the Lower East Side in an attempt to sell fur-lined raincoats. When he produced his first biker jacket in 1928, he created Schott’s brand core that exists to this day. Above all, the name Schott stands for coats and jackets for the military, as well as for bomber jackets, bomber blousons, and motorcycle jackets for police officers. The Perfecto One Star motorcycle jacket, worn by Marlon Brando in the 1950s in the movie “The Wild One”, proved to be one of Schott’s greatest successes. The same jacket was worn in the 1970s by the members of the punk band The Ramones, as well as by the Sex Pistols lead singer Johnny Rotten, Lou Reed, and Bruce Springsteen. Today, stars such as Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Jay Z, and Die Toten Hosen wear fashionable re-interpretations of Schott’s leather jackets. Family Affair
Schott has always been a real family business. Company founder Irving handed the business over to his son Mel Schott, who - in turn - passed it on to his son and long-term president Michael. The current management board consists of president Roz Schott, her brother Steve Colin as CEO, her son Jason, and the latter’s cousin David Colin. All board members work together very closely. “Every generation needs to work for its place in the company”, Jason Schott explains. “This involves working one’s way through all the departments of the business.” It also involves earning one’s stripes in other companies. Jason, for instance, worked as auditor for ten years before returning to Schott. “Our company benefits from these experiences. I have also recognised that our business has enormous entrepreneurial potential, mainly because every 217 style in progress
generation needs to become an expert in a particular field without losing sight of the bigger picture.” Jason’s mother and uncle, for instance, developed new categories within the collection and expanded the sales network into new markets. “My cousin and I are essentially promoting the brand’s Internet and social media presence, as well as tending to the retail sphere. That includes our 15 retail stores, a number which will be increased in the future.” In Germany and Austria, where Schott is represented by Fashion Factory by Mark Grütters, the brand plans to open its own stores as a supplement to the 120 retail customers it already supplies. After France and the UK, Germany is the third largest European market. In Europe as a whole, Schott has approximately 1,000 retailers on its customer list.
heritage by utilising old sewing machines and consistently relying on traditional craftsmanship techniques. However, this doesn’t mean that the brand refuses to evolve. “Mel Schott, my grandfather, always wore a necktie clip with the acronym ‘Y.C.D.B.S.O.Y.A. - You can’t do business sitting on your ass’. This is still our family motto today”, Jason points out.
“You Can’t do Business Sitting on your Ass”
To this day, the Schott brand is defined by its classic original designs. The New Jersey-based company cultivates this rich
Jason Schott shares managerial duties in the family business with his mother Roz Schott, his uncle Steve Colin, and his cousin David Colin.
Schott N.Y.C. is a traditional brand that prepared for the future by focusing on contemporary designs.
WHAT'S THE STORY 109 SUCCESSION A NEW TWIST
Derek Rose Healthy Paranoia for the Future As a member of his family’s third generation, Sacha Rose has set out to restore his grandfather’s business back to old glory with a healthy shot of paranoia and luxury products for style and comfort. Text: Quynh Tran. Photos: Derek Rose
There’s a joke about family businesses. It claims that the first generation builds the company, the second turns it into a success, and the third destroys it. Anyone looking to disprove this joke’s premise can point to Sacha Rose. He is the third-generation executive manager at Derek Rose, a business that was founded by his grandfather in 1926 and is renowned for luxurious English pyjamas worn by the likes of Winston Churchill, John Lennon, and even Harry Potter. Following a successful career as a lawyer in the financial industry, he decided to manage the family business in 2003. “I was pushing around money and paper, but I wasn’t making an actual product. At first, I thought I was going to expand, but I soon found out that I needed to rescue the company first”, Sacha Rose explains. “Back then, independent retailers learned that it is more lucrative to rent out their stores to chains like Starbucks. We lost many customers irretrievably due to closures. The cord that connected us to consumers was cut. On the other hand, our product portfolio was static too.”
The Cardboard Box Child is Back
Rose, who speaks fast and always has razor-sharp arguments, laughs as he recalls how - when he was a child - he was put into cardboard boxes by employees of the production plant in Congleton, Cheshire, when he annoyed them too much. “When I walked into the plant, they all thought: ‘Ah, he’s back.’” The first impression wasn’t necessarily the best either. “Before I joined the business, the board had already decided that a number of production jobs needed to be cut. It was imperative, but they simply couldn’t bring themselves to do it. One has to realise that it’s not about the jobs that are going to be cut, but about the jobs that one saves by saving the company itself.” Despite teething problems, Rose not only managed to consolidate the business, but also managed to return it onto the path to success. “My father was much more charming than me. He was a fantastic salesman with a burning passion for the product. But he was also somewhat conservative and risk-averse. As an attorney, I have learned that per-
Stylish relaxation without couch potato image: Derek Rose products are the antithesis to worn-out jogging pants.
From the boy in the cardboard box to the successful saviour of the family business: Sacha Rose.
ceived and real possibilities can be very far apart and that one needs to take risks. I brought a healthy shot of paranoia to the business, both on the management and product levels.” The new product categories introduced by Rose are generating growth. The T-shirt made of in-house Micro-Modal has developed into the company’s bestseller and the underwear segment, which was introduced in 2013, has also become a success story. Every single product is meticulously inspected in terms of comfort before it goes into production - by Rose himself! “We perceive ourselves as a ‘style & comfort’ company in the luxury segment. We assist people in relaxing in style. I see the market as a long balloon that has been compressed in the middle. That means there’s more room at the top and the bottom. As long as we remain high-end, we have a market.” What about the initial scepticism? “Everyone can see that the business is doing well. We’re hiring again and Derek Rose is heading in the right direction. It’s still a struggle though. I have to prove myself continuously and that’s exactly how it should be. Even in friendships and love one should never take people for granted. One needs to treat them like an expensive glass vase that would shatter when dropped. The same applies to our family business and I am very aware of that.” style in progress 217
110 WHAT'S THE STORY SUCCESSION A NEW TWIST
Meindl “Boys, What’s Your Plan?” Together with his brother, Hannes Meindl took over from his father. That his son Markus would follow in his footsteps was beyond question: a smooth and gradual handover that almost goes without saying. Text: Stephan Huber. Photo: Meindl
Hannes Meindl, you have experienced both sides. That of the young generation taking over and that of the older generation passing on the business. What was more difficult?
Hannes Meindl: Neither was difficult, but very different. When I started out, we had five or six people in the shoemaker’s workshop and my brother, who was eleven years older, manufactured the clothes. My brother and I more or less set up the company. While my father made sure we had a financial basis, he let us run everything completely on our own. Here’s an example: When I, at age 20, drove to Rosenheim to buy leather and spent 50,000 or 80,000 D-Mark, Papa took notice, but felt that it was none of his business. To sum up: when my father passed the business on to us two, it was a matter of five minutes. My father called us into his office and said, “Boys, what’s your plan?” - I was 11 years younger and said: “Papa, I want 40 percent and Alfons gets 60 percent, because he spent eleven years more, building the business.” But my brother insisted on fifty-fifty and that’s how it was done... Markus, how did this conversation go for you? Also a matter of five minutes?
Markus Meindl: There never was a conversation because I was basically involved in the company from the moment I could walk. I know every single light switch. I essentially had free rein. It drove our staff crazy; I was constantly disappearing with their utensils, adjusting the machines. I grew up here, the company was my home.
So it was clear to you from the very beginning, this is in your DNA?
Markus Meindl: Of course, in every aspect. We were allowed to help, we had to work during the holidays, and were not cod217 style in progress
dled. We started at seven in the morning and finished at four in the afternoon, but then we still had to help on the farm. In the winter, I worked in the Skikeller (a sporting goods store, which was then part of the Meindls’ shop in Kirchanschöring). I don’t know how many hundred or thousand pairs of skis I mounted, polished, waxed and fixed up. Because our parents saw that we wanted to work and we had fun doing it, we were practically allowed to do whatever we wanted.
Was there a period of trial and error, before your role within the company was properly defined?
Markus Meindl: In our family they made sure early on that the children were involved in the company, also financially. Handing over a business isn’t something that’s done overnight, or if it is, it is ridiculously expensive. It’s important to pass on the essential values early on, and little by little. My father and my uncle never had a problem parting with things. Each new generation has its own focus and points of view...
Hannes Meindl: Markus has always had this innovative streak. When he was only 15, 16 years old, he already made models that were pioneering. Of course he also had ambitious ideas and thought he could maybe do a thing or two with other products. I let him do his own thing. Even if sometimes things went awry.
Was it important to know that you were able to just give things a try?
Markus Meindl: Very important! If you’re trying out new things, you learn the hard way and that’s how it’s supposed to be. Next time you won’t make all the same mistakes again, you’ll do some things right. You are a family business working together with other
family businesses and you depend on the prosperity of these businesses.
Markus Meindl: I like the saying: For better or for worse. There have been times, where we came to the aid of our tanneries. That’s why there are still companies that can manufacture these products for us. During a change of generations — and many of our producers are on the verge of one of these — we remain close, so that everything continues to go well with the next generation. Hannes Meindl: Live and let live. That is the case with tanners especially. They buy a natural product and it is a process of weeks and months before the hide is ready. It’s obvious that sometimes, something will go wrong. Then you admit that perhaps you have to pay an amount that the product is not worth. But live and let live has turned out to be the way to go. Coming back to your question regarding new generations: My father trusted us completely, just like I trust my son. The transition to Markus didn’t happen overnight, but he was involved from the be ginning, we trusted him, he had an almost completely free rein. And that has proven successful.
Is it luck when the experience and contacts of the older generation remain accessible to the company? Sometimes the older generation simply says: You take care of that, I’m off to the golf course!
Markus Meindl: I’m glad that my father, with his almost 77 years, is still so active. He is keeping fit by working in the company and wants to be present. Moreover, he contributes his knowledge and supports me. So technically I also get to play golf every once in a while. (Laughs.) Which I wouldn’t do, however. I’d go hunting.
WHAT'S THE STORY 111 SUCCESSION A NEW TWIST
Early responsibility, trust, and individual experiences - it was always clear that Hannes Meindl would pass on the business to his son Markus.
Hannes Meindl: My father was a part of this company his entire life. If Markus tells me he no longer needs me, I’m off tomorrow, no questions asked. But I’m still having fun.
Are there any wishes, demands, any criticism that you, with your experience as a family business, would like to direct at the political leaders of this country? How this entrepreneurial culture can continue to exist will be an essential social issue, also how to support it by being politically aware, how to promote it — or at least how not to throw obstacles in its way.
Markus Meindl: In my opinion there are enough obstacles as it is. Look at the issue of inheritance. Everyone thinks
inheriting something as big as this is sheer luck. You have to be up to this task, however, and there are many bits and pieces that need to fit together in order to guide the company into the hands of the next generation. This should not be complicated, or many who want to take on this responsibility lose interest. If companies are no longer managed by their owners, but instead transformed into some other form of business, they lose their very heart and their culture and, here and there, a craft business will disappear. But the cornerstone of German entrepreneurship is and always has been craft. There’s still a little time until you will have to hand over to your children ...
Markus Meindl: I’m already talking to my children, who are now six, four and two. I’m very open with my oldest girl, I tell her that if she wants to take over one day, she has to come to work with me every now and then. They enjoy it so much anyway that they are all here once or twice a week. It has to be playful, but I’m already discussing things with them and telling them that, if they want to run the company, they must put in some work too. Hannes Meindl: Many of my friends own big companies - one of the largest shipping companies in Germany, for example. The owner let his three sons go to university. They were never involved in the company, and when the time came, none of
them had any interest in taking over. If I keep the children away from the company for decades and suddenly want them to take over, they’ll say: I’d much rather stay at university.
112 WHAT'S THE STORY SUCCESSION A NEW TWIST
FTC Cashmere The Third Sibling The Knezovic dynasty has always perceived FTC Cashmere as a family business. It therefore comes as no surprise that Jana Knezovic, the daughter, found her place within the company quite naturally at 24 years of age. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: FTC Cashmere
After studying in St. Gallen and Milan, Jana Knezovic took the place of her mother. Since the beginning of 2017, she has been responsible for product management, while Jutta Knezovic has taken on additional management responsibilities.
Two JKs and two AKs daughter Jana, mother Jutta, son Adrian, and father Andreas. Is it an exaggeration to say that the brand was founded with this constellation in mind in 2003? “We have always made all decisions as a family, even when our children were still very little. They have always been involved in decisions that affected them”, Jutta Knezovic says. The family decided to relocate to Switzerland in order to establish the brand. It has always been normal for the children to participate in the joys and sorrows of business life on an everyday basis. Jana Knezovic, who calls the company her “third sibling”, was handed an official role in 2017. She is now the head of product management, thus relieving her mother, who can now dedicate more time to management issues. “My vision has always been to join the family business. It could have happened two or three years later, but we all decided that the time is right once the opportunity presented itself”, Jana Knezovic explains. It’s a real relief for her mother: “Who can one trust more than one’s own daughter?”, she asks 217 style in progress
and recalls that Jana “was actually constantly around, involved in product design at an early age, and always included in decisions and discussions. She also accompanied me on research trips as often as possible, so she has a wealth of experience. She knows the brand from the cradle. If I would have had to pass on this knowledge to an external manager, it would have taken ages to familiarise. Besides, a brand is not merely about facts; it’s about emotions that are quite difficult to explain.”
terms of design and product. “Seeing that we know each other so well and often have the same style approach, our work is very harmonious”, Jana Knezovic explains. So there is no rebellion? There are no ideas that the new generation insists on pushing through? “Rebellion is already a thing of the past”, Jutta Knezovic laughs. “On the contrary, I appreciate the fresh spirit and vision of a new generation. In terms of design, one is always obliged to keep up with the times.” Both are convinced that open communication and mutual respect are essential. They never needed fixed rules concerning the separation of the private and professional spheres. “Here, too, one has a sense for what the other feels and when work needs to take a step back for when we need to be a family. But we are all passionate about this business, so nobody is bothered if we discuss it in our spare time”, Jana Knezovic explains. www.ftc-cashmere.com
Open Communication
The daughter’s determined start was welcomed within the company too: “Our employees were glad to hear that Jana is now with us. She has already spent as much time as possible here during holidays from her studies and developed a friendly relationship with colleagues”, Jutta Knezovic beams. Jana Knezovic, who studied business administration in St. Gallen and fashion business at the renowned Istituto Marangoni, is well-equipped for many areas within the business. The mother-daughter duo is, however, unbeatable in
FTC Cashmere relies on solid values. Respect is a key word, not only within the family, but in all areas of the company.
WHAT'S THE STORY 113 SUCCESSION
Pyrenex Function with Style Edouard Crabos believes his primary task is to focus on the strengths of the down specialist Pyrenex. However, he’s equally eager to promote innovation and make the brand sustainable. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Pyrenex
The design of the down jackets is not loud; they boast special - but subtle - innovations. This alone reveals a lot about the Pyrenex brand, a brand that is now run by Edouard Crabos, who is in the process of preparing it for the future. The family business in Saint Sever, not far from the French Pyrenees, has a rich heritage to look back on. It was founded in 1859 by Abel Crabos, who handed the company over to his son René in the 1920s. The latter optimised industrial down processing and expanded the retail network. Under the leadership of his sons, André and Jean-Pierre, Pyrenex was registered as a brand in 1968 and started producing bed linen, sleeping bags, and
Pyrenex of France combines function and urban style.
down jackets. At first, the label supplied clothing for expeditions in the Pyrenees, the Alps, and the Himalayas. A little later, it added ski and sportswear for mountainous and urban areas. The business grew, but in the 1990s its know-how was increasingly used for other brands in order to counter the growing competitive pressure of synthetic materials. New Momentum
Since 2005, Pyrenex has been gaining momentum, due primarily to its own collections - on the one hand technical mountain products, on the other urban, fashionable jacket lines. “The success with the city dwellers encouraged us to focus on this new clientele”, Edouard Crabos, who joined the company in 2003, says. In 2009, he promoted the perception of Pyrenex as a high-quality brand when he established a collaboration with talented French Haute Couture designers to mark the label’s 150th anniversary. “This introduced us to a new clientele with an international flair”, Crabos explains. “Today, our lines offer protection against the elements, but always with style.” When the industry was plunged into a resource crisis due to the avian flu in 2015 and 2016, Pyrenex was able to ride the storm by utilising its close ties to breeders with unaffected stock and its own stock. This allowed Pyrenex to continue to grow steadily. “We worked hard on our collections and quality standards”, Crabos adds. For example, the company’s inhouse tailoring studio has been revived. In addition, Pyrenex has restructured departments such as product development and has invested in new technical systems. The aim was not only to modernise processes, but also to establish Pyrenex as a sustainable brand. “I have retained the most important aspect of my uncle’s and father’s heritage: the human factor. Within two years,
Today, Pyrenex is managed by Edouard Crabos. He is introducing bold innovations, but always with caution.
we replaced slate-boards and paper with EDP, mainly due to enterprise resource planning. It was a veritable revolution”, Crabos explains. He also introduced the ISO 14000 certification to reduce energy consumption. “We are designing products that are meant to last, which is why we believe it is only logical to include this in a sustainable development project.” Crabos is also re-structuring distribution. Pyrenex has 400 points of sale in its main markets of France, Japan, and the UK, as well as two franchise stores, a store in Paris, and the e-shop. The brand is expanding in Italy, Austria, and Germany, where Pyrenex is represented by Panorama Europe (distributor) in collaboration with Fashion Factory by Mark Grütters (agency). “We are not interested in a wide diffusion; we prefer distributing selectively and qualitatively”, Crabos emphasises. “We prefer to take our time and try to choose the right distribution partners. For a small brand like us, our customer service is an equally important key to success.” style in progress 217
114 WHAT'S THE STORY SUCCESSION A NEW TWIST
Frauenschuh “Don’t Do What Others Do - That’s Worthless!” The standards that Kaspar Frauenschuh sets for his eponymous luxury collection are high. His brand is not only defined by its unmistakable style, but also by its quality and sustainability. Kaspar Frauenschuh sets the same standards for potential successors willing to take over the business. He sat down with style in progress to explain how he and his children are preparing for a possible handover. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Frauenschuh
Mr Frauenschuh, both your children are studying in New York. Is it certain that they will take over the family business one day?
Both have expressed their intention to do so, yes. My 22-yearold son Simon is studying fashion management, while my 20-year-old daughter is studying fashion design. She’s also working for Proenza Schouler on the side. However, I don’t want to force my children to follow in my footsteps. It must be their own desire. Furthermore, they need to gain experience in other companies first before they can find their own way. It is important to me that my successors are not compared with me. Kaspar Frauenschuh did everything better, and such… As a strong personality with leadership qualities, how do you personally prepare for handing over responsibilities?
I have been spreading the responsibility for our brand over several shoulders for the last three years. We outsourced marketing and finance. I have handed over administrative duties too. We also moved our studio back to Kitzbühel from Paris. We now employ three seamstresses here, which allows us to develop prototypes. I’d like to continue contributing to this area in the future, preferably on a half-day basis. This would allow me to indulge in other interests such as mountain biking or mountaineering.
unique spirit of this brand to my children. They understand the Frauenschuh style and my daughter definitely has what it takes to reinterpret it in a way that customers would still recognise it: “This is a typical Frauenschuh piece; easy and not over-dressed, yet still a bit sexy and of the highest quality." What about sustainability?
Half a year ago, my son said to me that he didn’t understand why we aren’t generating a billion Euros in revenue yet. I couldn’t help but laugh out loud! I explained to him that we are currently growing healthily in line with our philosophy with approx. 100 specialised retailers. Clothing needs to be functional and authentic in terms of design. I explained that we - as a family business - only collaborate with other family businesses, not with large conglomerates. We attach great importance to ecology and believe that employees should be treated with respect.
“I believe that simplicity is one of the greatest strengths.” - Kaspar Frauenschuh (64)
It’s not exactly easy to multiply such an approach. When I visited my son recently, I saw that sustainability has become more important in the curriculum. We will benefit from that.
You took over the store at the young age of 19, while your father continued to take care of the tannery.
It was an honour and my father gave me free reign. He only told me one thing: ““Don’t do what others do - that’s worthless!” I want to give my children the freedom to do what they want and what suits them too. That’s the only way to ensure future success.
It can’t be easy to relinquish control over what one has built.
I’m learning how to. In addition, I’m being coached by an advisor who tells me what I need to consider. For example, I now understand that it is not enough to merely explain everything. One needs to ensure that the message comes across too. My ultimate goal is to pass on the 217 style in progress
High-end, sustainable, and never over-dressed: Frauenschuh’s fashion approach.
The Frauenschuh brand focuses on craftsmanship.
WHAT'S THE STORY 115 SUCCESSION A NEW TWIST
Phil Petter Individualism Required Corinna and Kurt Petter founded Phil Petter in 1973. Anja Grabherr-Petter, their daughter, joined the family business in 1999. Together they focused on values that are now the USP of their knitwear collection: specialism made in Austria. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Phil Petter
If Phil Petter were an orchestra, the kettledrum would be unemployed. Founder Kurt Petter is a master of soft tones. His wife Corinna has also never sought out the spotlight. Anja Grabherr-Petter may be a little bubblier, but she also knows that the conductor’s bravura depends on everyone performing at their best. Many aspects of the company follow this self-perception and the strict focus is also reflected in strategic issues: “In the early 2000s, when everyone outsourced their production and expanded collections, we made two very important decisions. We most definitely wanted to retain production in Austria and remain specialised”, Anja Grabherr-Petter explains. It seems the family anticipated a recent trend. Today, this “treasure” is what distinguishes the brand from its competitors. Anja Grabherr-Petter quickly realised that the aforementioned values should be utilised for marketing purposes: “It was an important step in terms of external communication to add ‘Made in Austria’ to every label and to explain so many details to reps and customers. This is very important to me too. We have so many stories to tell. Very often, we change the production process a little and make it a bit more elaborate. These little things make the difference in terms of quality. I try very hard to make these details transparent.”
Anja, Kurt and Corinna Petter manage the business together. There is a succession plan, but no deadline. Brother Philippe is also involved a little, albeit not in the company itself. After all, his name can be found in the brand name.
ing to forego profits in order to make an investment.” Anja Grabherr-Petter never doubted that she would join the
Lifetime of Specialisation
Maintaining a production plant like Phil Petter’s in Vorarlberg, the former Dorado of Austria’s textile industry, is the task of a lifetime. “Our industry generally requires a lot of individualism, which could be the reason why there are so many family businesses. Some decisions can only be justified with lifeblood. Conglomerates would certainly decide differently. As a family, one focuses on long-term issues and is - from time to time - will-
The knitwear DNA is also present in the ready-to-wear items that have been complementing the Phil Petter collection for a few seasons.
parental business. “I’ve always enjoyed working with beautiful things, so Phil Petter is an ideal match”, she explains. In 2009, ten years after her arrival, she became managing director and acquired a stake in the company. She used the time until then to learn everything about the company by working in all departments. “I never acted like a junior boss; I always did my share of work.” When she calls for a meeting of representatives and her mother Corinna starts making dolls from leftover wool with the grandchildren, Anja Grabherr-Petter is reminded of her own childhood. Growing up with and in the company was self-evident, especially with parents who are so committed. “I think the next generation becoming involved is not only a strong signal for employees, but also for customers. One can be sure that the company remains in operation.” Naturally, she is referring to herself. Her little ones still have a lot of time to decide - and then they’ll have all the freedom they need. style in progress 217
116 WHAT'S THE STORY SUCCESSION
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WHAT'S THE STORY 117 SUCCESSION FAMIGLIA MODERNA
Famiglia moderna
Italy harbours more family businesses than any other country, especially in the fashion industry. This doesn’t necessarily mean that one generation hands the sceptre to the next. Globalisation has added a new dimension to the old pattern. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler
Dynasties dominate Italy’s fashion industry, not only in the form of actual owners. Even the production facilities of companies benefited from the fact that parents passed on the wealth of experience they had obtained from their “mestiere” over years to their children. However, there are hardly any young people who are willing to spend a large portion of their lives sitting at a sewing machine in a production line. This is a problem that the new generation of owners and managers needs to solve. They, who are excellently trained, internationally experienced, and sensitive to the needs of the export markets, are the ones who will lead the country into the future - with brands that not only need to be successful in the home market, but also need to be competitive on an international scale. To this end, the companies in question have improved significantly in terms of organisational skills. Paolo Xoccato, co-owner of Xacus with his brother Giorgio: “Today, we are much more like
Germans and Austrians than we used to be - not only due to the open borders, but also in terms of mentality. In the past, everything on the other side of the Brenner pass was a different world for us, but today we are much ‘closer’ to our neighbours in the North.” Being perceived as Italian is an accolade in terms of style, but no longer in terms of corporate structures. “Companies are well-advised to gain as many footholds as possible on a global scale. That ensures that they can remain in balance if one of the footholds turns out to be a little shaky”, says Giovanna Furlanetto, the president of Furla. Marco Berni, the CEO of Antonelli, only recently returned from a trip to Korea, where he was impressed by the mega-conglomerates à la Samsung, whose factories form entire cities. “The fashion companies in Italy are all in rural areas and that is almost symbolic of our problem in terms of international competitiveness. Everyone remains in their villages and nearly every company depends on strong
entrepreneurial personalities. It’s not about the company itself, but about the entrepreneur. On a global scale, we are small fry.” Woolrich is on the verge of transforming from a family business to a listed global brand. The company’s fate has been increasingly managed by WP Lavori in Corso over recent years. The duo formed by entrepreneur Cristina Calori and the creative genius Andrea Canè, who both prefer to revive tradition-steeped US brands with Italian gusto, has completed a fairly adventurous journey and is now about to write a completely new chapter. So don’t be too surprised when - in one of the following articles - a native Italian says: “We are an American brand.”
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118 WHAT'S THE STORY SUCCESSION FAMIGLIA MODERNA
Andrea Canè has worked at WP Lavori in Corso for 35 years. Woolrich is his masterpiece. It therefore came as no surprise that he was nominated as global creative director after the merger.
Woolrich “A Unique Opportunity – For Us and the Family”
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WHAT'S THE STORY 119 SUCCESSION FAMIGLIA MODERNA
WP Lavori in Corso of Bologna has espoused a project close to its heart with a spectacular merger. After 30 years as a licensee, the new Woolrich International company now combines all business areas under one roof from the spinning mills to the stores. Andrea Canè, the global creative director, sat down with style in progress to discuss the merger. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Woolrich International
I assume a lot of suit wearers walked in and out the WP Lavori headquarters here in Bologna before the merger was finalised in November last year. How has that changed this business, especially as it has - until now - been characterised by short decision paths. You and Cristina Calori (the president of Woolrich International and owner of WP Lavori in Corso) have been working together for 35 years and you trust each other completely…
Yes indeed, this is a different culture that we need to integrate now. The necessary financing of 65 million Euros was not raised via private equity houses, but through three Italian banks. That was important to us. We didn’t want to have an institutional investor onboard; we wanted to secure financing traditionally via banks. Until now, our decision paths were swift and filter-less. Now we have to explain our decisions plausibly to a board and a partner. That makes a lot of issues a bit more political. But we’re happy, as it’s a unique opportunity. We invested so much in Woolrich, but we always had to depend on contracts. Now we - and the descendants of John Rich, who still hold a significant stake - are owners. The new company is also an asset for them, especially
as it is an enormous challenge to prepare a 200-year-old company for the future. Nicholas Brayton represents the seventh generation at the helm. The family needs the support of WP Lavori in Corso, because we know the product-side. Many successors have attended excellent universities and boast excellent economic skills, but they often lack the connection to the product itself. And we have spades of that! (laughs)
You have ambitious plans. The three-year plan until 2020 includes an IPO. That means you need to prepare the company for such a move.
I’ve always insisted that this merger is merely the beginning. Now it’s time for blood, sweat, and tears. A simple example: Cristina Calori, as the sole owner of WP Lavori in Corso, was interested in the end result. The owner wants to see an increase of funds, not a decrease. It doesn’t really matter which department contributes a lot and which contributes less. Today, we need to ensure that all departments of the company make money. Now imagine this… We didn’t merely acquire a spinning mill in Pennsylvania, but also a lot of surrounding land and water rights. In the 19th century, Woolrich was vertically integrated. It owned the land on which the sheep graze, the herds, and
the clean water that is so vital for the production process. It is now our task to return one of the oldest spinning mills in the US to profitability. The woollen fabrics we are capable of manufacturing there are extremely expensive and are not necessarily in line with the zeitgeist. They handle in a way that was popular in the last century: hard and rough. This is interesting for a niche, but certainly not suitable for competing with any Italian fabric manufacturer. Therefore, we have to ensure that we stage the products from the spinning mill - blankets, ponchos, and yard goods - in a way that makes them exciting despite their properties. To this end, we intend to establish design cooperations, for instance with Supreme or OVO. At the same time, we are starting to work on the fabrics. But above all, we have to change the mentality. We need to convince the employees that changing their products after 200 years is a good thing. We can only secure a successful future for the wool mill if we give the employees the feeling that they - and their products are an integral part of the bigger picture.
You have a long way ahead of you, but there is also great potential for growth in both the short and medium term…
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120 WHAT'S THE STORY SUCCESSION FAMIGLIA MODERNA
Yes, that’s especially true in North America. It’s no coincidence that Woolrich Europe - including Korea and Japan - generated three times more revenue than Woolrich Inc. We positioned the brand clearly in our markets and lifted it to a level that we now need to achieve in the US too. The positioning of Woolrich in the US is significantly less ‘premium’ than here. We are striving to change that. The potential I am speaking about not only pertains to North America. I haven’t even talked about expansion into China and the additional growth potential in Europe… It’s easy to see why the financial backers believe in us and the potential of this new company. From an investor’s perspective, this is all very promising. What is the strategy for your own retail stores?
Our own stores are an integral element of our growth strategy. In Germany, we opened another Woolrich store in Stuttgart at the end of May. In that particular market, we have founded a joint venture with Komet & Helden and it’s doing a fantastic job. Currently we are working on the integration of our own new footwear line. It requires a new, firm positioning and attention. 217 style in progress
When Andrea Canè says “We are an American brand”, he’s not merely referring to the brand’s roots – the wool mill in Penn sylvania.
Can one still expect further growth in the wholesale segment?
Yes, we constantly need to ask ourselves what we can do to help the multi-brand retailers. Do you already know the answer to that question?
We are currently working on a significant project that could be summarised as ‘we try to speed up’. In fashion, we have an incredibly long development period of 18 months. It is completely illusory to predict whether a particular tone of
yellow will remain popular in 18 months, especially in a world that changes so quickly and dynamically while being subjected to so many influences. This means you can’t be on point with every item. That’s why we intend to spread out our collection over more delivery dates. In the future, this will enable us to react more sensitively and swiftly. It’s a mammoth project, but we are convinced that it is right and important to shorten the development periods.
The merger of Woolrich Inc and Woolrich Europe was announced in November 2016. The WP Lavori in Corso team is in charge operationally, while the descendants of the founder John Rich remain significant shareholders. The aim is to list on the stock exchange in three years. In 2016, Woolrich generated 190 million US Dollars global revenue. The brand, which is sold in 45 countries, has 300 employees. www.woolrich.eu
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Antonelli “There is no Alternative to Internationalisation” The sisters Roberta and Erica Antonelli have transformed their father’s undergarment company into an internationally renowned brand in the premium segment. In 2008, the third generation, as in Erica’s son Marco Berni, joined the fray. The trio sat down to talk with style in progress. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Antonelli, Marina Vorobyeva
In 2001, Gossip, Antonelli’s parent company, saw the reigns handed over to the second generation. In 2008, the third generation came into play. How does one successfully hand over a business from one generation to the other?
Marco Berni: One needs a common vision, common values, and a clear concept that everyone supports. In addition, we all have clearly defined competences within the company. My aunt Roberta takes care of all financial and administrative issues, while my mother is responsible for design and production. I myself am in charge of marketing, sales, and communication. However, we make all strategically important decisions together.
Has the new generation triggered an internationalisation process at Antonelli?
Roberta Antonelli: It’s actually merely a demand that we satisfy. In a very classic manner, we launched our brand in 2013 on a national scale. Agents and customers from the export markets approached us soon thereafter. Marco Berni: Today, we are in the fortunate position to be able to - in most cases - choose who we want to work with. The same applies to our second brand, the Tortona 21 knitwear collection. However, we never forget why that is the case. Our product has always been of the highest standard and quality ‘Made in Italy’ is a convincing asset. We also provide our customers important services such as subsequent deliveries within 24 hours. Roberta Antonelli: We deliver on time. You are from Germany, so you know how important that is to German customers! (laughs) 217 style in progress
How did the launch of Tortona 21 come about?
Erica Antonelli: Customers regularly told us they are searching for a high-quality knitwear collection. It suddenly came to pass that one of our suppliers was put up for sale. We were able to take over a functioning business, its entire know-how, and all employees. As a ready-to-wear brand, that was important to us. After all, one needs specialists in the knitwear segment. Roberta Antonelli: Integrating the knitwear collection into the existing one would have been wrong. Customers have a budget for Antonelli and a budget for a knitwear supplier. A second brand therefore ensures that we don’t cannibalise our Antonelli sales and allows us to add another budget item. Marco Berni: Most customers already know us. Both Antonelli and Tortona 21 appeal to the same customers. Seeing that we are so reliable with Antonelli, it is comparatively easy to get our second brand listed. Both brands have a very elaborate image. The imagery is sophisticated and the brand image is stringent. You invested heavily right from the start…
Marco Berni: Yes, it is vital to get the brand image right. We do everything with caution and consider things closely - be it in terms of marketing or new markets. It is important to understand how individual export markets work and what one needs to do to advance a brand. I was in Korea recently and that was very exciting. We have just opened our first corner there. We still have enormous potential on an international level and we take this task very seriously. An example: We hired Cristian
Straightforward, sophisticated, and fashionable - Antonelli attracts discerning customers.
Cappozzo, an internationally experienced sales director who speaks excellent German. That illustrates how important the German, Austrian, and Swiss markets are.
Italy boasts excellent talents in design, sales, and marketing. How is the situation in the factories?
Roberta Antonelli: This is indeed a problem. I can’t see young people stepping up in any of the businesses we work with.
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Roberta Antonelli (left) has a firm grip on the administrative reigns. Erica Antonelli is the creative mastermind behind the brands Antonelli and Tortona 21. Marco Berni joined the family business in 2008. This year - at 35 years of age - he was appointed as CEO. His task is to expand Antonelli’s international presence.
Erica Antonelli: All young people want to be designers. Nobody wants to sit at a sewing machine anymore. Roberta Antonelli: But we need such people… Making models, cutting, and sewing are now three professions. In the past, a seamstress could do all those jobs. She then passed on her knowledge to her daughter. Today, we lack those seamstresses with such extensive knowhow.
When a brand like yours becomes so successful, what are the greatest dangers?
Marco Berni: In Italy? That one is copied… Instead of looking outwards and striving to mature into large, globally competitive companies, we tend to entangle ourselves in national trench battles. In this country, if you are good, you can always count on someone else offering the same products at a lower price.
The company was founded in 1950 by Luciano Antonelli in Castelfiorentino near Florence. The sisters Roberta and Erica Antonelli initially turned the undergarment manufacturer into a blouse collection in 2001. In 2013, they launched the Antonelli brand, which promises to supply upscale Italian womenswear by women for women. Marco Berni, a member of the third generation, joined the business in 2008. He was appointed as CEO in 2017. Approx. 500 customers in Italy and abroad stock Antonelli. Tortona 21, the recently launched knitwear collection, has another 200 customers. A showroom for both lines is located in Milan’s “Via Tortona 21”. A mono-label store in Milan will follow shortly. www.antonellifirenze.com
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Giorgio Xoccato, the older of the two brothers, has a firm grip on the financial and administrative reigns, while Paolo focuses on the creative side of the business. Together, they took over the company founded by their father in 1956. Ever since, they have internationalised the business, expanded its scope, and matured it into a brand.
Xacus “We Are a Manufactory, Not a War Machine” Taste, creativity, and craftsmanship are the cornerstones of Xacus’ excellent global reputation in terms of men’s shirts. Paolo Xoccato sat down with style in progress to explain why the founder’s sons decided to expand into the women’s blouse segment. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Xacus
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Everyone can be a designer: Xacus’ customisation service strives to create space for individuality.
After sixty years of success with men’s shirts, one could just sit back and enjoy the ride. So why did you decide to launch a women’s collection?
We asked ourselves what would be more natural: to offer men’s trousers and knitwear or to offer a women’s collection. The right answer became clear very quickly. We are specialists and strive to remain specialists, which is why we opted for the women’s collection. Surely there are important differences in the women's business…
Absolutely. The women’s fashion market has its own dynamics and logic. We are thrilled that we have managed to achieve success so swiftly. In most cases, we teamed up with independent, specialised agencies both in Italy and abroad, which meant that we managed to place our products in very good stores quickly. Compared to all the groundwork one needs to lay for men’s shirts, it was fairly easy - especially in the German-speaking countries. The women’s blouse is an integral part of the respective product ranges in those markets. It’s different in Italy. The buyers pick blouses from here and there; sometimes they pick no blouses at all. Fortunately, there
Organised, modern, and professional - Xacus, a shirt and blouse specialist headquartered in Veneto, has made a name for itself as a quality and service brand.
is a trend towards fashionable blouses - that plays into our hands.
Is this your way of preparing for the future?
We are seizing an opportunity. Many of our competitors have suffered in recent years, but we have grown in our hereditary men’s segment, in the women’s segment. Why? Service has always been one of our strengths and we have invested continuously in all areas of the company. Professional re-order services, uncomplicated returns, and a high level of service ability have allowed us to gain ground in a shrinking market. In terms of the increasing fragmentation of the market, we are perfectly prepared for historical reasons. Because we’ve never operated large production lines, we are capable of producing small lots. That allows us more creative depth. Our distinguishing features are exceptional fabrics, special washings, and fashionable variants. We are a manufactory, not one of those war machines that dominate the sales floors with their standard shirts. In the future, we will strive to not only offer this flexibility to wholesale customers, but also to consumers. “My Concept” affords consumers the opportunity to design their
own individual shirts at our retailers - and soon also online. This is a great way to connect more directly with our customers. I believe that consumers are changing significantly. The new generation of customers wants to know more precisely what it’s wearing and individuality is very popular.
Family businesses in the fashion industry are almost a natural law in Italy. Is that an advantage or a disadvantage?
It’s true that we have an unusually high percentage of family businesses in the fashion industry. I don’t have any specific figures, but I would estimate it to be more than ninety percent. I have thought about the reasons for this for a long time, mainly because the same doesn’t apply to other Italian industries. I believe this passion for quality and beauty, as well as for creativity and craftsmanship, needs to be nurtured. As an entrepreneurial child, one inhales this spirit from birth. For me, that was a daily reality and my dedication matures accordingly. Whether the next generation takes over depends on two things: will and skill. Our doors are open for the next generation, but family members have to prove themselves in both aspects - just like everyone else. It is clear that
the future will be challenging. Everything changes rapidly, which is why we have been investing in young teams and fresh ideas in all business areas for quite a while. It’s the only way to keep up with the times, which is - at the end of day - our raison d’être as a fashion brand. The whole business needs to exude modernity.
Xacus is the short version of Xoccato Alberto Camicie di Uomo San Vito di Leguzzano. Founded in 1956 by the eponymous Alberto, the company is currently run by his two sons, namely Giorgio as president and Paolo as CEO. After focusing on men’s shirts for more than 60 years, Xacus decided to launch a womenswear collection in 2014. Xacus manufactures exclusively in its own factories in Europe. The brand guarantees NOS service for more than 300 items. www.xacus.com
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Furla “Quick Decisions and Solid Roots”
In her capacity as president, Giovanna Furlanetto is the highest-ranking manager at Furla. The brand from Bologna has become a global player by relying on external managers in all operational areas, while the family dominates the supervisory board. Interview: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Furla
der Hand, Paolo kümmert sich ums Kreative. Gemeinsam und zur Marke reifen lassen. The head of the family - Giovanna Furlanetto transformed Furla into a global brand.
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Was it always clear that you would join the Furla family business?
My first involvement at the company - at the age of sixteen - was a natural process. I was still at school when my father asked me whether I would be interested in working an hour or two in the afternoon. After that, I became more involved step-by-step. What are the current advantages of a family business?
You can make decisions very quickly, which is important in our fast-moving times. And you have solid roots, which is just as important. We have reinvested all profits over many years, which surely wouldn’t have happened under a management that focuses on maximising returns. I also believe that family businesses pay more attention to their employees, mainly because they know that nothing can be achieved without them. It is absolutely vital to let your companions know that they are valuable and important - and not just in the form of a bonus when certain targets have been met. We recently launched a huge employee benefit programme that is supposed to offer stimuli in a non-classical manner. We offer each employee an additional compensation that can be
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Furla’s headquarters in Bologna, where everything began, are located in an 18th century villa.
Fondazione Furla, the company’s foundation, promotes up-and-coming artists with international format.
Aldo Furlanetto founded a classic family business in 1927. First we was supported by his wife, later by their three children.
appropriated individually. It can be used to pay for kindergarten, for the care of the elderly, or for a personal development project. These are small incentives we offer to underline how important our employees are to us. Their contribution is what makes Furla’s success possible. When did it become clear that you would rely on an external management?
It became clear when the challenges started to mount due to increasing internationalisation and rapid global change. It is unrealistic to expect to find the necessary know-how within the family or company. New questions require new answers. This is why we decided to obtain new knowledge - and thus a chance to improve - from outside. I value this approach, mainly because it allows me to learn something new every day. The more the company grows, the more important the quality of our employees becomes not only at management level. Their mindset, their studies, and their previous experience is important, be it in terms of IT, distribution, or administration. Then it’s up to us to utilise these skills within a harmonious whole. However, we should not merely utilise our employees’
experience, but also increase it.
Which goals do you set for managers?
Generally speaking, we draft three-year plans. This is quite a challenge in such rapidly changing markets. The world is changing so fast, which means that the goals need to change too. Operating on an international level requires continuous exertion. The next problem is always just around the corner. The embargo against Russia, new duties in China - the flow of sales changes constantly. It is therefore all the more important to have a broad global standing, because that allows you to cushion fluctuations more efficiently. Furla has two sides. It is family-owned, but relies on non-family managers. How did this come about?
It was not a simple step, of course. We discussed the issue extensively and decided together that it would be good for the family to withdraw from the operational business and to take responsibility for important strategic decisions within the supervisory board instead. Our supervisory board is very active and already includes members of the next family generation. It’s an invaluable asset both for now and the future. It ensures
that the business follows certain principles today and makes the right strategic decisions tomorrow.
If you could be sixteen again, would you do it all over again?
I consider myself very lucky. I never had to worry about what I want to do. I learned the principles and values of this company from my father and I uphold them to this day. What are these values?
They are from all walks of life. There’s the dedication and passion to never stand still and the respect for the people involved. I absorbed and internalised all this at a very young age.
Is the fact that so many Italian fashion companies are family-owned a structural advantage or disadvantage?
I believe that the advantages and disadvantages are balanced. Our path certainly isn’t the right option for all. I firmly believe that companies need to consider external help once they have reached a certain size. Every company needs to decide for itself when this point is reached. Seeing that we focus on retail expansion and have invested heavily in this field, we needed someone who was capable of navigating this segment. The CEO needs to know that
specific area very well. It isn’t enough to merely decide on the city in which we want to open a store; sometimes the difference between success and failure is whether the store is located on the left or right side of the street. If you don’t have this knowhow in the company, then you need to step back and bring it in. Companies are well-advised to gain as many footholds as possible on a global scale. That ensures that they can remain in balance if one of the footholds turns out to be a little shaky.
Furla celebrates its 90th anniversary this year. Founded by Aldo Furlanetto in Bologna, the company embarked on an international growth strategy under the leadership of his three children. The current president is Giovanna Furlanetto, while the operational business is in the hands of CEO Alberto Camerlengo. In 2016, the company forecast sales in the region of 422 million Euros. Furla is active in more than 100 countries, operates 444 stores, and intends to expand its store network parallel to the wholesale business. Approximately 1,700 employees work for Furla worldwide. The company’s holistic approach is manifested in Fondazione Furla, a foundation that promotes young artists. www.furla.com
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Sofia Ciucchi and Wanny di Filippo Palamon Capital Partners hired the experienced manager to promote international expansion. The brand’s founder remains at her side as a figurehead.
Il Bisonte “Product and Quality Remain at the Core” Wanny di Filippo has decided to unleash his bison. He sold his life’s work to London-based Palamon Capital Partners to promote international expansion and growth. A new, high-calibre management has been appointed to achieve just that. style in progress sat down for a chat with CEO Sofia Ciucchi. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Il Bisonte What are the future plans of the brand Il Bisonte - in the medium term?
Il Bisonte has a strong heritage - quality, tradition, made in Italy - and we want to reinforce its main values while revamping it into a more contemporary lifestyle brand. We want to strengthen brand awareness through distribution growth and strong marketing activities. Our focus is both on retail and 217 style in progress
qualified multi-brand distribution.
Is Il Bisonte undergoing a trading-up process or will it remain an accessible luxury brand? Whom do you see as competitors?
We would like to maintain the “accessible luxury” positioning: high quality products for a reasonable price. This is a fundamental principle of the brand. We are adding a “fashion
touch” to our lines that will remain casual, timeless, and unconventional. A touch of modernity and refinement is the “plus” ingredient that can make the brand even more desirable. Regarding competitors, we think that we don’t have actual direct competitors. Il Bisonte is so unique and special due to its history and style that we can’t identify a real competitor in the market. Of course we pay
attention to other brands, both in the affordable luxury and premium segments, and to all the most relevant trends affecting the accessories market, but we always try to remain focused on our own identity and strategy.
What is the future role of the founder and why did he decide to join forces with an investor?
Our founder really cares about the future of the company he
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established in 1970. He would like to see his “creature” move forward and grow over the next decades. He’s now the chairman of the board of directors and he’s still the perfect brand ambassador. With his creativity and unconventional approach, he also provides inspiration for key brand projects such as the new flagship store opening soon in Milan.
Comprehensible prices and traditional Tuscan craftsmanship - Il Bisonte creates its market with this successful blend of attributes.
Il Bisonte is strongly linked to artisan production, but Italy lacks young people willing to learn the craft. How can a brand like Il Bisonte contribute to finding enough young talent willing to work in artisan production?
Il Bisonte has a short, really unique “filiera” (network of suppliers and manufacturers); everything is produced within 30 km from our company headquarters. We’ve been able to maintain and grow a network of experienced and loyal craftsmen, integrating from time to time young people willing to learn a proper craft. In our internal “modelleria” and prototyping department, we have been hiring young technicians who undergo a period of training with our old master artisans. We have also started working with some design schools, choosing the ones that teach students how to make products, not only how to design them. What makes the difference is the ability to combine design and technical knowhow. Wanny always calls it “talking with hands”. I think it’s the irreplaceable Italian touch and definitely what characterises Il Bisonte. We have just started a collaboration with “Accademia del Costume e della Moda” of Rome. We have asked a group of students to redesign some of our iconic products - they are working on both design and craft techniques - with the objective of integrating some of these students into our company. What are your plans for the markets Germany, Switzerland, and Austria? Will we see in-house retail operations in these markets too, or are you looking to wholesale models in terms of growth?
We believe that these markets understand the values of our brand perfectly: the long-lasting quality, the craftsmanship of our
products, and the fact that they are never out of style. We think that we have lots of potential to be expressed in these markets and for the next couple of years we are targeting an important multi-brand wholesale distribution development in Germany and Switzerland. Opening a flagship store in Germany is also part of our mid-term plans. The new management board has previous experience in terms of international luxury goods brands. What sets Il Bisonte apart from other brands?
This brand has a very special heritage. Its essence is in the product: unique, genuine, and authentic. Most luxury and accessories brands are mainly focused on brand communication and marketing. At Il Bisonte, the product and its quality remain at the core of what we do and I think customers can perceive it. In a world of massifica-
tion we can represent a veritable luxury concept, in which luxury does not mean high prices, but authenticity, exclusiveness, and personalised approach. Our products are made to last and age - gracefully - with time; they are companions for life, never ostentatious and never out of place. An all-purpose casual chic style that is very Italian (and even more Tuscan)… What is currently the focus in terms of PR and marketing? What are the goals you wish to achieve?
We are focusing on a rejuvenation of the brand and on a strengthening of brand awareness worldwide: the brand is enjoying phenomenal success in Japan, but it is not known well enough elsewhere. Starting from Europe, we are working on a series of brand building activities (leveraging our directly operated stores and selected multi-brand distribution), on
digital communication (website and digital marketing), and on word-of-mouth PR activities.
Il Bisonte was founded in the 1970s by Wanny di Filippo in the heart of Florence, where the company still has its headquarters to this day. The USPs of the brand, which is now part of the portfolio of London-based private equity house Palamon Capital Partners, are Tuscan production quality and an excellent price-performance ratio. The new owner has assembled an internationally experienced management board consisting of CEO Sofia Ciucchi (previously at Ferragamo) and Chairman Marcello V. Bottoli (previously at Pandora and Luis Vuitton). New design accents are, for instance, provided by a capsule collection in collaboration with the English designer Emma Hill (previous at Mulberry). The brand’s sales representative in the German-speaking countries is Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz. www. ilbisonte.com
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WHAT'S THE STORY 131 SUCCESSION YEARS OF TRAVEL
f o s r a Ye l e v Tra
out seeing h it w s s e in s parental bu successors. Many of e h t in ip h apprenticesion for many potential panies, especially as n a g in t r a t S not an opt ir stripes in other com for the future of the is ld r o w e th to earn the here can be formativeidler. Photos: Companies r fe e r p m e th ine Se ined t a tert@Carol g e c n Claudia Mei ie r e p Illustration: x r. pe e ha e Sc th ess. Text: Nicoletta in s u b y il m fa arents. of one’s p - to do footsteps l a ing ri u e n epre even noth eveloptr r n o e e le th tt follow in that has li only in terms of d ative f course to e a different path o r e a ltern tt e, not a m k r y positiv n experiences. A n s to the ea ns a tely ta e v m ra e e o b b n li n y e a b d It is e result c to quite is applie and huma lse is often nts have chosen. Th basic professiona l family business. Th uired k now-how u p im e Th e g re cq ke over th ath the pa h newly a a lso gainin with the p n persona lit y, but n one is asked to ta ve home bases wit he ecti ow ing one’s o be quite useful w rned to their resp tu ls a re n view ca eurs, who re the future. u entrepren worked following nce in order to sec Group, where he ear n io sh Fa te y e ol p H and com management at family’s underw of lot about brand ing to Mey, his a rn one d tu ne re ar re le fo ey be s on essentia ls is Pichler, cu r fo Matthias M ne ei to r R de O E or C in former him right. cing one thing closely with the eself by renoun obviously proves na l experience on s es ng cc hi su lis t ab if st sw E company. at Mey. His nt of internatio ium fashhas introduced bstantia l amou su a ed in ga Wirschke, a prem ancial e the measures he e hk ag sc an ir m W rs n ti he onstan Today, the brot records in the fin Clemens and C r severa l years. om their track fo fr a y id aining at tl or ea Fl gr s in fit g the excellent tr ss bene ne while livin om si fr bu as e l Th el w f. or as üsseld manufacturer, ion retailer in D based cashmere nila M a at d industry an ünster. Weitkamp of M
Finally, we turn our attention to Clemens Sagmeister. He masters his duty of leading Sagmeister in the sixth generation by utilising what he learned at Tommy Hilfiger, at Hugo Boss, and - above all - at P&C. He omits what isn’t transferable to an owner-managed fashion retailer, but focuses on aspects that enrich his own business.
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132 WHAT'S THE STORY SUCCESSION YEARS OF TRAVEL
Matthias Mey, managing partner: “I was able to concentrate on what I am good at: brand, product, sales, and modernisation.”
Mey “If You Can Build on Values, You Can Achieve a Lot” When Matthias Mey left Holy Fashion Group after 14 years to join the family business, he found optimal conditions. Instead of resting on laurels of the past, he promoted what had shaped him over the past few years: focusing on essentials. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Mey
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Dietmar Mey afforded his son Matthias the freedom to do what he wants. Consequently, the latter shunned the underwear industry and joined Strellson in Kreuzlingen. Back in 2000, the brand was a small business with 70 employees. Two years later, he was appointed as assistant to Reiner Pichler, then the CEO of Holy Fashion Group. It didn’t take long before Matthias was given an opportunity to prove himself when Holy Fashion Group relocated Windsor.Men from Bielefeld to Kreuzlingen. “As a brand director - and later managing director - of Windsor.Men, I was given the chance to modernise the label. For someone who was not even 32 yet, that was a huge task and highly motivational”, Matthias recalls. He was impressed by Reiner Pichler’s passion for the brand, focused on heritage and values, and - at the same time - started changing the collections noticeably. The brand grew steadily and was given a solid sales structure. Furthermore, it was suddenly also perceived as significantly more modern by customers. In 2011, Matthias agreed to join the advisory board of Mey Group in addition to his duties at Holy Fashion Group. He sat down with his brother Florian
and his cousin to discuss succession within the family business. In the end, Matthias gave in to his desire to shape his family’s company and took over the management of Mey Group in 2014. His brother is responsible for production, while his cousin, Markus Mey, is in charge of IT, logistics, and e-commerce. Last but not least, Roland Kull is responsible for finances and human resources. Brand Focus
Matthias Mey tapped into his energy reserves and experience before deciding to concentrate on his strengths: brand, sales, product, and modernisation. In some cases, he quite deliberately gave up market shares in order to sharpen the brand’s profile and promote modernisation. Loungewear and modern nightwear, as well as lingerie (from 2007), are now among Mey’s strongest growth segments. Matthias Mey knows that one can achieve a lot if one builds upon existing values. “Our high-quality product costs money. Our customers will only spend such money if they are aware of the added value we offer.” In 2016, Mey launched a value campaign with provocative slogans such as: “Your sports car doesn’t come from Bangladesh
either.” He also initiated Mey Story as a luxury brand focused on offering the best white T-shirt, which led to a considerable image enhancement. This enhancement is not least owing to an authentic campaign that shows entrepreneurs who embody similar values to Mey’s, among them Talbot Runhof and Markus Meindl. This has proven to be particularly effective in the premium fashion segment. Today, Mey Story is not only listed at Lodenfrey and Murkudis, but also at Princes Antwerp, The Store Milan, and United Arrows Tokyo. Considerable progress has been made within four years. Not only the group’s revenue increase from 69 million Euros in 2013 to 88 million Euros today is impressive, but also that the brand has been made even more future-oriented by raising its profile within a younger target group. “My contribution may have been to push for more radical change”, Matthias says. “This could only be achieved because I found a great foundation here, with experienced employees. If you’re handed a rough diamond that merely needs to be polished, that makes things much easier.”
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Rejection of comparability - Clemens Sagmeister believes labels and events that make his business special are more important than high fashion.
Clemens, Caroline, Heidrun and Gebhard Sagmeister.
Sagmeister Truffles and After-Work Pints A business that began with antiques 170 years ago, has transformed into an internationally renowned premium retailer of fashion. Today, Clemens Sagmeister represents the sixth generation at the helm. He gained a wealth of experience at Hugo Boss, Tommy Hilfiger, and P&C. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Sagmeister
Hugo Boss in Miami and Tommy Hilfiger in Amsterdam - the internships while studying business administration proved to be formative for Clemens Sagmeister. “My family obviously has a fashion background, but I only really discovered my love for fashion during that time. I had motivating mentors with a fresh entrepreneurial spirit and a real passion for their job.” Infected by the fashion bug, Clemens Sagmeister started making his way in the business by joining a management programme for trainees at P&C in Vienna in 2006. He rose through the ranks quickly. Sagmeister was still being prepared for management duties - including stints at P&C branches in Düsseldorf and Zurich - when he was asked to head up the exclusive women’s and men’s department at P&C Salzburg. After nine months, he ran the fairly new exclusive department in the company’s Viennese branch for one-anda-half years. “That’s when they asked me to become managing director at P&C in Vienna’s Kärtnerstrasse”, Sagmeister explains. “I, however, wanted to return to Bregenz with my wife.
It was time to join the family business.” Head On
The young Austrian picked a good time to take over the Sagmeister family business from his parents, Gebhard and Heidrun Sagmeister. In 2011, the Sagmeister business had emerged significantly stronger from the challenges the industry had faced after the turn of the millennium. Despite increasing competition both online and offline, the company grew into a business with 40 employees in six branches. Menswear multi-brand concepts remain the main domain, supplemented by a mono-brand store named Eleventy, a web-shop on Farfetch, and - since 2015 - a children’s fashion store managed by Clemens Sagmeister’s wife, Caroline. Clemens Sagmeister has turned his back on collections by the likes of Prada and Dolce & Gabbana. “On the one hand due to the order limits, on the other hand because Prada simply didn’t meet us - a fairly small retailer - at eye level in terms of order dates.” He believes that the future of the family business lies in uniqueness. He relies,
for instance, on local labels like Weber + Weber as a special truffle. In addition, he organises tailoring days and events such as an after work beer in cooperation with a local beer specialist. The company’s personnel policy is different today too. “I prefer to perceive employees as co-entrepreneurs with shared responsibilities. Small companies often lack the willingness to consider such an approach, but at P&C I learned that there is no other way.” Clemens Sagmeister was also strongly influenced by P&C’s controlling policy. “I tried to incorporate some of it into the daily routine of Sagmeister. However, I abandoned some elements again after half a year; it had become clear that our small structure was too different.” During his studies, Clemens Sagmeister conducted interviews with members of the Masculin Modekreis for an assignment. That’s when he realised how important it is to be open about financial results. “It makes sense to compare rather than act individually”, he says. “One can see that both the problems and successes are very similar - and that one can learn from each other.” style in progress 217
134 WHAT'S THE STORY SUCCESSION YEARS OF TRAVEL
“Our name is on the door; that in itself creates responsibility.” Clemens Wirschke (right), pictured with his brother, Constantin Wirschke.
Wirschke Effortlessly Down-to-Earth Wirschke has been one of the most renowned fashion retailers in Düsseldorf for more than 70 years. Sounds antiquated, you say? By no means! Two brothers, namely Clemens and Constantin Wirschke, are leading the business into the future after learning their trade in the US, Milan, and Münster. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Wirschke
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The shop windows showcase outfits by Moncler, Herno, and PT01 - classic looks with a very special twist. The Wirschke brothers’ sense for fashion stems from their mother, Italian-born Gabriella Wirschke. It therefore comes as no surprise that the brand portfolio has a strong Italian influence. It includes household names such as Antonelli, Santoni, Lardini, and Piazza Sempione. This was already the case under the leadership of the parental generation. Clemens Wirschke senior was forced to take over the company in 1971 at the tender age of 23, but he rose to the challenge quickly. The business flourished and he opened two branches on Sylt. In 1997, the family spent seven years in a small town in Florida after hiring an external manager to run the fashion stores. “My parents were eager to experience something new; our life there was very idyllic”, Constantin Wirschke says. He studied in
Holland and entered the banking industry, where he worked for the likes of Credit Suisse and Natixis. “After a while, I felt the urge to work with my brother and to improve the family business.” In 2011, he joined Wirschke Düsseldorf, where he now shares management duties with his brother. Constantin is responsible for all financial matters, while Clemens takes care of the creative side of business. After studying business administration in Boston, the latter gained first practical experience at a cashmere supplier in Milan. “It was very interesting to see things from the perspective of producers. I saw how exhausting the demands of us retailers can be”, he points out with a twinkle in his eye. “Today, producers and retailers need to cooperate closer than ever.” At Schnitzler and its affiliated menswear store Weitkamp in Münster, he honed his sales talent even more. “It was important to see how others
operate. I was also very impressed by the familiarity within the large company”, Clemens explains. Soft Skills
Both brothers are no strangers to working 60 to 70 hours per week; they even work on the sales floor on weekends. “We need to understand the dynamism of the market. Fortunately, it seems to work well”, Constantin says. “Events such as tailoring days and trunk shows are just as important as posts on Instagram and Facebook”, Clemens adds. “Today, soft skills are more important than ever. How well do I know the customer? Do I know whether the dog has recovered from illness? We have to make time for our customers. That’s why we have 15 employees in a 400 square-metre store. Service is paramount today.”
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WHAT'S THE STORY 137 SUCCESSION GUIDES
The Giudes
Handovers and succession plans are not just intra-familial processes, but penetrate deep into the structure of companies. style in progress sat down to talk with consultancies that deal with the consequences of such handovers and with a fashion retailer who hired someone to accompany the handover of his own business professionally. Text: Ina Kรถhler, Nicoletta Schaper. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler. Photos: Interviewees
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138 WHAT'S THE STORY SUCCESSION GUIDES
“At a Certain Point It Must Become Clear Who’s in Charge”
When is the right time to hand over a company to the next generation?
Norbert Pühringer; Team Retail Excellence: There is no right time as such. I’d say there’s a right timeframe. On the one hand, competent in-house training facilitates the gradual integration of the successors. They need to hone their competences and gain the confidence of the team. On the other hand, it must become clear who’s in charge at a certain point. I believe that a familiarisation period of one to two years with a clearly defined handover is a sensible approach. What are the most dangerous risks for companies in this respect?
The greatest risk is a mere apparent handover by the founder, who - in reality - remains a grey eminence in the background. In such cases, the employees don’t know which direction to follow. I have witnessed several examples where such a situation led to the collapse of the company. A second risk is the lack of competence on the part of a son or daughter, especially if it is not identified as such by both the founder and the successors. It’s not shameful when families recognise who’s suitable for a managerial position and who’s not - it’s a sign of greatness. A successor can also represent his interests as owner as a member 217 style in progress
of the supervisory board. In this case, he or she doesn’t have to face corporate challenges on a daily basis. An experienced, competent third-party manager is always better than an inexperienced successor from within the family.
What do you recommend in such cases?
One can compensate for a weak family manager as successor by installing an excellent management council and a strong second management level - as long as the successor doesn’t insist on leadership claims. However, this is usually not a favourable permanent solution, mainly because employees are unbelievably sensitive to the strengths and weaknesses of their superiors. When in doubt, they become disoriented which usually weakens their own respective positions and attitudes. What advice would you give employees who are “caught between two stools”?
That’s always a difficult situation, but there is a very simple and clear solution. Focus on your own sphere of influence. A second-tier manager will not be able to solve a problem within the owner family, so it makes no sense to try. The right thing to do is to take responsibility within your own sphere of influence, which can also act as an important signal to the owners. This manager can turn into a
model for integrity and responsible behaviour. Role models not only work downwards, but also upwards. Even when it can be difficult to influence one's own sphere of influence proactively and to act in the best interest of the owner family, this is the only way to influence difficult situations positively. One can pull the release cord as soon as a clearly defined red line is crossed. What certainly doesn’t help is moaning, strife, and blaming superiors. That is always counterproductive.
recognition, involvement, and control over the process itself. The optimal process starts with the reconciliation of the interests of all involved parties. They need to be willing. At the same time, one must ensure that the successors have the necessary know-how. When in doubt, one may need to define a longer familiarisation process or bring in an external manager. One also needs a crystal-clear communication strategy informing all stakeholders about the process, the timing, and the roles of all involved individuals. Last but not least, one needs to act and communicate in a manner that builds trust in the ability of the next generation to manage the business successfully.
To what extent does one have to take personal and familial structures into account? What would an optimal process look like?
It is important to define and openly discuss the personal motivation of the founder and potential successors at an early stage. Every involved party needs to have a clear understanding of the perspective and interests of the others. Good solutions, that take into account the interests of all involved parties, are always based on mutual understanding. In many cases, the interests are weighted differently. The founder may be, for example, willing to let go earlier than initially planned if he senses that his achievements are valued highly. The biggest hurdles are rarely financial aspects, but often very human factors such as appreciation,
Team Retail Excellence The Düsseldorf-based consulting company supports brands and retailers in the fashion segment in the development of successful business models. The consultants combine their competence in terms of corporate strategy, sales, and purchase management with their long-standing experience in order to shape change successfully.
WHAT'S THE STORY 139 SUCCESSION GUIDES
“Succession Needs Room for New Approaches” Mrs Engel-Hutner, the Hutner AG is well-versed in terms of succession plans in retail companies. This was also a topic with relevance for your own business.
Claudia Engel-Hutner, CEO of Hutner AG: Yes. My father was smart enough to plan the management structure of the company ten years ago. My father was a member of a succession generation in the retail industry himself. During his work as advisor and coach, he experienced all kinds of handovers. I believe that inspired him to make the generational change at Hutner really exemplary. What did it look like in detail?
Changing the company’s legal form from a limited company to a joint-stock company was the first step towards resting the management of the business on many shoulders. Thus, Michael Hutner, Margit Hutner, and Christian Göggerle ran Hutner Training AG until the end of last year. After that, we established separate divisions, whereby I took over sales management. Markus Haslinger became responsible for the further development of our retail services. However, it was always clear that the 31st of December 2016 was the deadline for when we four board members would take over. What difficulties do you encounter during succession processes in the retail trade?
Sometime successors enter the company very quickly without having gained experience in another company. In addition, one needs to develop awareness for the fact that a new generation can’t - and shouldn’t - fill the exact same role of its predecessors. This requires extensive self-reflection on the part of all involved parties. It’s a real
challenge, especially as we are dealing with two strong systems: family and company. When both interlock, it becomes exciting.
How did you - as the daughter of the company founder Michael Hutner - experience the process?
I was never put under any pressure to enter the World of Hutner. I worked in companies that had absolutely no affiliation with Hutner for ten years between finishing my studies and joining Hutner. Only then did I consider myself ready to enter the family business, where I made my way like everyone else - without privileges. In which situations can you help as a consultant?
The generation of successors needs support in terms of defining its new leadership and finding space for new approaches. When the company’s vision and mission are clearly defined, the older generation can build trust in the successors. The same applies to the employees, who support and shape the changes. How can you tell that your work is paying dividends?
When pre-defined milestones are actually reached… This can be the success of certain projects that the younger generation was responsible for. Or when the generations are able to reflect openly and trustingly about why something in the day-today business didn’t work out as planned.
The projects of today are probably different than in the past. After all, each era has its own special challenges.
And each retailer has individual topics, such as digitalisation. It is of fundamental importance for the younger generation to define the strategy for the coming years, especially when the
older generation won’t be in the company much longer. Many companies even fail to set a date for the handover, even though clarity is the most important prerequisite for success. If there is no clearly defined end of the path, how can milestones be set?
Hutner Training AG, headquartered in Kronburg, was founded in 1983. The company mostly consults and accompanies retail companies in the fashion, sports, and footwear industries in terms of analyses, strategies, and personnel development. www.hutner.de
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“The Best Idea Wins” Mr Fischer, is there a more delicate topic in the retail trade than that of succession?
Ulrich Fischer, managing director of Mein Fischer: Probably not, especially as the industry is changing constantly. Succession is one of the hottest topics for many medium-sized and small retailers. After all, one doesn’t hear many young people say that they dream about taking over a textiles store. You took over the business from your parents in 2012.
If one - so to speak - grows up under a clothes rack, the topic is indeed on the table from early childhood onwards. At the beginning of my vocational training, I actually imagined that step. Following my apprenticeship at SinnLeffers in Hannover and studying in Nagold, my father and I decided that my future professional development should take place in our own company. I gradually took over various areas of responsibility. I became buyer for the young fashion unit and - later - the menswear department. Finally, I took over the business as a whole. How did the process look in detail?
Our guiding principle is: “The Best Idea Wins”. Until 2012, we made mutual decisions with a mixture of the older generation’s experience and the younger generation’s innovation potential. This was difficult in practice. We soon learned that one of us has to make a final decision. Today, my father mainly focuses on private matters, while my mother is dedicated to “Mein Fischer hilft e.V.”. The latter is a foundation that supports disadvantaged children. Defining tasks is just as important as separating work and private life. A healthy culture of dispute in 217 style in progress
a company is fine, but it should never affect anyone’s private life.
In which specific matters did you benefit from Hutner’s advice?
It was not only helpful in terms of development and implementation of a corporate strategy, which we developed from 2013 to 2016, but also in terms of the introduction of an employee development system. The definition of the Mein Fischer training as an academy was one of the most important building blocks. It also includes a support system for employees. We started scrutinising all employees and their respective positions within the business. What are their passions? Today, we claim to place everyone in a position that really suits him or her. I am convinced that only those who follow their passions can be truly excellent in what they do. What is your passion?
I love to shape, to try new things, and to develop excellent existing assets with the aim to lift our company to the next level. At the moment, we are striving to develop Mein Fischer from a textile company to a lifestyle provider including beauty and styling. We organise many corresponding events in our branches, which we perceive as stages that allow us to present extraordinary things. We are eager to establish contact with our customers everywhere via various channels, be it via the online shop, Facebook, Instagram, or our stores. Customer contact is still paramount. MEIN FISCHER The original store of the company, which was founded 185 years ago and currently has approx. 300 employees, is located in Taucha near Leipzig. Today, Mein Fischer operates 15 branches and a supplemental online shop, as well as a Marc Cain franchise store. www. meinfischer.de
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WHAT'S THE STORY 143 SUCCESSION [UN]SUCCESSION
) n U ( Succession Not every company is lucky enough to have a successor. It’s hardly ever a lack of will, but mostly a lack of skill and/or financial resources. style in progress has spoken to entrepreneurs who turned the end of an era into something completely new. Text: Ina Köhler, Martina Müllner-Seybold. Illustration: Claudia Meitert@Caroline Seidler
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144 WHAT'S THE STORY SUCCESSION [UN]SUCCESSION
Klaudia Burger has decided to embark on a new adventure after 27 years in fashion retail.
Slips “I Need a Change” Klaudia Burger - and her store named Slips - have been household names in Munich’s retail landscape for 27 years. When she closes the doors of her store for good in June, she does so at the height of her success. For good reason… Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photo: Klaudia Burger
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“It’s crazy. Ever since the prices are red, it’s been like a beehive in here.” Klaudia Burger started her clearance sale in March and the warehouse was empty by mid-April. However, she decided to take until June to say goodbye. “This decision triggers a lot of emotion, but I am looking forward to the change.” In the face of the praise Burger has received since she announced the closure, it’s easy to forget what made her make the decision in the first place. “I want my work to be appreciated again. It has become incredibly difficult to sell things at a regular price, especially in the fashion segment. Fast fashion suppliers and e-retailers offer reductions all the time. Pre-sale, mid-season sale, after-sale, between-sale, and so on… This has changed customers. Avarice is on the rise, but it’s not as if people can no longer afford to buy. Everyone always tries to negotiate the value of products down. Even when one offers a 50 percent discount, many customers - excluding my regulars - still try to negotiate. Assembling a product range for a store like mine - with underwear, as well as women’s and men’s fashion - involves an incredible amount of work and is basically an art. One needs to work like a curator. I don’t sense much appreciation for this enormous
effort. I also don’t see much appreciation for my staff and the amazingly elaborate personal service they offer. The online and fast fashion segments don’t offer any of that. This disregard for value started with the “tight is right” trend and I often have the impression that Germany is the worst in this respect. People drive to a discount supermarket in a luxury SUV and are thrilled when they save a little money. Nobody ever thinks about the conditions in which these foods - or the corresponding fashion of vertically integrated companies - are manufactured.” Time for a Lifelong Dream
Burger has no problem coming up with numerous other reasons why she started playing with the idea of quitting approximately two years ago. “Consumers are completely saturated; everything is available all the time and everywhere. When a dress is available in five colours online, it’s suddenly no longer enough to have two in the store. Everything is delivered too early too. Who the hell needs coats in June? Even the most beautiful product loses its covetousness and devalues quickly. In the past, I knew that I could sell everything I buy at a regular price - it’s quite different today.” She herself had done the smart thing. She adapted the order
volumes to changes such as declining customer frequency, thereby stabilising her profits. “Mrs Burger, why would you abandon such a profitable business?”, her tax consultants asked her recently. “Precisely for the reason that I can do it now”, was her answer. It’s quite paradox that Slips failed to find a buyer because it is so successful. “I had the business valued and I never intended to give it away. I know what the business is worth.” The interested parties were divided in two groups: “No bank believes in the retail industry. So those who knew the industry and realised the value of the company couldn’t come up with enough cash. Those who had the capital either lacked fashion competence or they wanted to be handed the business as a gift. Last but not least, my 270 square-metre store is simply too large for a newcomer. Everything needs to be in line.” So: “I decided to draw a line and leave it all behind. Burger now plans to run a small private guesthouse on Ibiza with her husband. “We won’t have to put our work on sale there. Our service will cost what it’s actually worth”, Burger laughs. The new venture is expected to start at the latest in 2019. Until then, one can follow the Burgers' exit and fresh start on Instagram: @burgeristhere
WHAT'S THE STORY 145 SUCCESSION [UN]SUCCESSION
Sven-Oliver Pink, Florian Michajlezko, and Oliver Steinki - the founders of Fond of Bags - can handle both new products and traditional brands.
Offermann “An Interesting Heritage” What makes three founders decide to take over a long-established brand with rich heritage? Offermann, a Colognebased leather brand, was almost 175 years old when it was put up for sale. This proved to be extremely appealing to the new owners. Text: Ina Köhler. Photo: Fond of Bags
However, the trio had to sort things out in their own company before the takeover of Offermann. Sven-Oliver Pink, Florian Michajlezko, and Oliver Steinki revolutionised the school bag business with “Ergobag”. Pink and Michajlezko met during their business studies and, quite accidentally, realised that many school bags were anything but ergonomic. In 2010, they developed an innovative and sustainable product that rapidly became a lucrative business. Under the umbrella of “Fond of Bags”, as the company is now called, they now own seven bag and backpack brands for different target groups. The business generated 45 million Euros in 2015/16 and has more than 180 employees. In 2019, the conglomerate plans to relocate to a new 10,000 square metre premises in Cologne. The founders have also been awarded the German Sustainability Award and the German CSR Award. The tradition-steeped Offermann brand came into play in 2014. The young start-up business teamed up with a company with 175 years of history in Bensberg near Cologne. The tannery was founded by Jakob Offermann in 1842. In the 1920s, the company started developing into a successful brand, which was ultimately put up for sale. A different branch of
the family operates prestigious leather goods stores in Cologne and Aachen under the management of Bernhard Offermann. Old and New Together
“A mutual acquaintance made me aware of the fact that Hubertus Offermann was looking for a successor in 2012”, Pink recounts. “It became concrete in 2014. By then, we were ready to make a move. From our point of view, Offermann boasts a lot of know-how in terms of leather and a very interesting heritage.” Long-serving employees, such as traditional bag makers, support the production processes. The existing structure of suppliers and retailers is yet another asset the new owners were able to secure. “It’s a wise addition from a strategic point of view”, Pink argues. “It was also important to us that the Offermann team becomes part of the Fond of Bags team. It worked well, which one cannot take for granted. A culture that has grown over decades is often very different than the culture of a young business.” The employees are now more involved in the processes and can work more independently. “We are content with the development and the bottom line is very positive”, Pink summarises. A clear cut was made in terms of product range. The portfolio was downsized massively and
the retail structure was realigned. “Offermann has a great reputation; even customers in Tokyo and New York swear by the brand. Our challenge was to adapt the traditional products to modern needs and to create something that suits modern times without neglecting values and quality standards.” One of the measures was the launch of “Klatta by Offermann”, a line for women, in January. It will soon run independently as “Klatta”. The footwear and leather goods industry in general was - and still is - slightly sceptical of recent developments. “The others were curious to see what the ‘school bag blokes’ are planning to do with such a renowned leather label”, Pink says. Would he do it all again? “Anytime, even though it was more work than we initially imagined.”
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Lawyer, property investor, and store owner: Wilfrid Wetzl has a passion for fashion.
Casa Moda “I Need an Emotional Connection” How does a lawyer end up owning four fashion stores? The answer is passion. Almost ten years ago, Wilfrid Wetzl bought Casa Moda and subsequently expanded the business to consist of three branches. In autumn 2016, he added Knilli, a traditional fashion store in Graz managed by Stephan Lanzer, to his portfolio. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photo: Casa Moda
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Wilfrid Wetzl’s lateral entry into the fashion industry happened almost ten years ago. In 2008, he acquired the Casa Moda store in Steyr from Gertrud Schmidtmayer. The latter had no successor in her family. “I had been a customer for years and had also acted as her lawyer. One day, I told her to contact me if she would ever consider selling her business.” When the time came, he made the investment based on his passion for fashion and sense of aesthetics. “I never had a master plan for my foray into the world of fashion. I simply seize opportunities when they present themselves.” Following the bankruptcy of Don Gil, Wetzl stepped up and expanded Casa Moda to three branches. “In one location, I only took over the premises. In the other location, I merely took over the team.” And now he has taken over Knilli in Graz. “Stephan Lanzer and I had been in talks regarding cooperation for quite some time. However, our idea of cooperation was not economically viable. That’s how this very friendly takeover came
about. I insisted on Stephan Lanzer - with all his experience - remaining at Knilli.” The store was recently subjected to a facelift and reopened in April with a number of First Lines in its product range. “The store itself has always been a beautiful place - it is so generously spaced with six-metre high rooms. We have made it even brighter, more sophisticated, and friendlier - I am really passionate about this project. In the face of constantly changing retail trends, I believe it is increasingly important to offer customers an impressive shopping experience. That’s our only chance! I am very critical of many retail developments: online competition, inner-city vacancies, mono-brand stores, and homemade problems such as product pressure and the early price reductions it leads to. The situation has worsened over the last few years.” Do Your Homework!
Is fashion still a good investment? “I am glad that my livelihood doesn’t depend solely on fashion. I’d have a Fiat Punto
as a company car”, the lawyer laughs. He is, however, thrilled that a strict financial management approach and - above all - excellent employees allow him to express his passion for fashion. “It wouldn’t be possible without my branch managers, who run their respective stores very independently. I have other professional duties.” Every now and then, he pushes those duties aside to place an order at Tom Ford or Valentino. “I love doing that. These brands fascinate and interest me.” The fashion attorney from Steyr has become quite a celebrity. “I am offered stores on a weekly basis. These stores lack successors or capital. However, I need to feel an emotional connection before I consider making a move. As a student, I bought my first suits at Casa Moda and Knilli. It is a beautiful feeling to uphold such venerable fashion institutions.” What kind of opportunity would he like to seize next? “I’d look at touristic locations. I believe a fashion store cannot be sustained without tourism.”
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Questions for Werner Böck
“I LOVE CHANGE!”
50 years of Marc O’Polo mean (almost) 50 years of Werner Böck and Marc O’Polo. It’s the story of a young Bavarian who fell head-over-heels in love with a completely new look during the men’s fashion week in Cologne. Entrepreneurial courage, a blend of vision and pragmatism, and the unwavering adherence to core brand values are common themes in the many chapters of this story. The same common themes can be found in the answers to the 50 questions we asked Werner Böck on the occasion of his “golden” jubilee. Text: Stephan Huber. Photos: Marc O’Polo
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1) Stephanskirchen or Stockholm? Now Stephanskirchen! 2) “Mir san mia” or “Echte Liebe”? Under Klopp, who I can also imagine as FC Bayern man-
ager, it certainly wasn’t true love. Back then, the BVB was a real competitor.
3) Wheat beer or lager? Lager. 4) Farmer’s market or supermarket? Farmer’s market. It makes me think about Italy, shop-
ping with my wife, and cooking with family and friends.
5) Haute cuisine or ploughman’s lunch? Both. The quality is decisive… 6) Haute couture or sweatshirt? Follow your nature. 7) “Lederhosen” or leather jacket? Neither. 8) Beatles or Rolling Stones? I was always a Stones man. I lived in so-called Swinging Lon-
don in 1964/65.
9) The most important moment in 50 years of Marc O’Polo? The birth of my sons. 10) Was that also the most beautiful moment? Yes. 11) A more difficult question: the worst mistake? A few personnel decisions. 12) What drew you to Marc O’Polo in the first place? It was definitely the product: shirts and
blouses made of hand-woven Indian cotton in completely different colours. That was new and a real change. 13) Are you still in contact with Rolf Lind, Göte Huss, and Jerry O’Sheets? Rolf and Christina visited us in Italy a few times. I don’t have much contact with Göte; he was in Cuba for a long time. I see Jerry online regularly and I visited him in Sanibel, Florida. He’s a perfectionist. 14) Why was the first advertising motif for Marc O’Polo a strawberry? Back then, it was a great symbol for a summer collection. 15) Do you have a favourite motif through the years? Yes, the migratory birds in the sky. 16) How about a favourite model? No. 17) Most influential designer of today? Ron Arad. 18) Most influential designer in history? Miuccia Prada. 19) Amazon or specialised retailers? They need each other. 20) How will you answer the last question in 10 years? Maybe in much the same way. 21) Facebook or Instagram? That’s enough! 22) How can a store persuade you to visit and return? With a clearly defined style. 23) Favourite store - doesn’t have to be fashion-related? Colette in Paris. 24) Can sustainable fashion work? Yes, if it doesn’t get too expensive. 25) Why are Primark, TK Maxx, and others experiencing such a boom? Because of their prices… 26) Are the majority of consumers simply ignorant? Are they? 27) Does a free market need strict rules? No. 28) Open Sundays only for churches or also for retail temples? I don’t think that’s necessary. 29) Did you enjoy attending fashion trade shows? Yes. 30) Which one was the most fun to attend? The Pitti Uomo in Florence.
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The migratory birds in the sky - the campaign motif of 1988 - is Werner Böck’s favourite ad. The strawberry was the legendary campaign motif of 1967, the founding year of Marc O’Polo.
31) Did fun equal success? We had fun and success at the Bread &
Butter in Berlin.
32) Were you never tempted by the huge shows? I’ve had enough
show.
33) I need to follow that up with Paris or Milan? Both. 34) Or Berlin? Not at all. 35) Is the fashion business more complicated than in 1967?
SIGNIFICANTLY more complicated.
36) What’s the biggest difference? Today, our business is much
more complex and requires new competences.
37) Logistics or creativity - what’s more important? Creativity
alone isn’t enough; perfect logistics facilitate implementation.
38) How are the vegetables in Liguria doing? The olive trees were
rather restrained in terms of yield.
39) Do you have a so-called “green thumb”? That’s my wife’s
responsibility.
Werner Böck, the chairman of Marc O’Polo, in the 1970s.
40) Speaking of green: have you improved your golf handicap during your time on the supervisory board? Yes. 41) A spontaneous take on Tony Cragg? Wonderful shapes… 42) Is fashion also art? Yes. Trends are picked up by art, design, and
fashion in a similar manner. Look at mesh - everything is knitted these days. 43) Kenya or Jamaica (note: political)? Jamaica. 44) Or traffic light after all? Change! 45) Majority voting system or proportional representation? Majority voting system. 46) Your three wishes to politicians? You can also go for demands… Disburden low-income wages and the middle class,
while increasing the income tax for high earners by 3 percent.
47) It would be presumptuous to look 50 years into the future… so let’s go for five years. Where will Marc O’Polo stand on the 55th anniversary? Even clearer, more focused, more competent,
and more modern.
48) Will there be another Böck in operational management then?
In honour of the brand’s 50th anniversary, Peter Lindbergh photographed the actor Mads Mikkelsen.
Yes. My sons Maxi and Benni will definitely be involved. And Werner Böck on the supervisory board… 49) Marc O’Polo in three words? Always modern casual. 50) Werner Böck in three words? I love change.
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150 WHAT'S THE STORY
Roberto Ricci is a legendary surfer. He owes the fact that he not only manufactures boards and equipment, but also outerwear, to his business partner.
Surfing spirit for land rats: RRD’s design is perfectly suitable for urban use.
RRD. SEE THE SEA Success breeds challenges in terms of innovation and quality. Roberto Ricci meets these challenges with a clear philosophy and a twopronged structure. Text: Quynh Tran. Photos: Roberto Ricci Designs
Roberto Ricci has been at the helm of RRD (Roberto Ricci Designs), a brand founded by him, for almost 30 years. Over the years, the label has developed into a market leader in the water sports segment. The current task is to waterproof RRD for the future. The highly skilled surfer started manufacturing surfboards in 1989 and his boards quickly became favourites within the scene. After his workshop burnt down to the ground, he decided to start all over again and added activewear 217 style in progress
to his range. “My aim was to provide equipment for water sports, but I also wanted to supply matching pants and shirts. I was, however, quite aware that equipment and clothing are completely different businesses”, Ricci says. In 1995, he and a partner split the garage startup into two companies: Ricci International for equipment and Montecristo for clothing. This created a group ready for international success. Two Pillars
“RRD benefits from this separation, mainly because it allows us to work more professionally. Furthermore, we can remain independent and innovative in both areas. In the clothing industry, it is important to understand the market to use the production and distribution
chains efficiently. The equipment market is much smaller and operates differently. It’s more about establishing personal relationships with partners. It’s not only like a family on an internal level, but also in terms of connections with suppliers and distributors. I tend to focus on the equipment business, while my partner takes care of the clothing department. We both do what we do best.” Ricci is the managing director of the equipment business, but - as the founder and creative director - he also has an influence on the collections, communication measures, and marketing. Today, 95 percent of production is outsourced to external manufacturers in Europe. The development of materials and the design process still happen in-house. This structure allows for test
productions and smaller series. “Naturally, both areas stimulate each other. We are a company with the structure of a family business and 100 percent independent. Professional production, marketing, and distribution are indispensable, but in the future one can only survive with a clear corporate philosophy. This is becoming more important by the day. I have often been asked whether we would also make equipment and clothing for mountain sports. However, our founding principles have always been focused on the sea, as well as the respect for water and nature. Even today, these aspects remain the core of the brand in both areas. We belong to the sea and I strive to connect as many people as possible with the sea.” www.robertoriccidesigns.com
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Michi Klemera feels inspired by the man who lends the brand its name. Some see parallels in the vitas of the two South Tyroleans.
Luis Trenker. THE ALPS FOR THE WORLD Luis Trenker is following in the footsteps of the eponymous mountaineering legend by promoting its Alpine lifestyle. From South Tyrol into the world… Text: Quynh Tran. Photos: Luis Trenker
How important can a name be? In the case of Luis Trenker, the name is what tells you everything you need to know about the philosophy of the brand. “He was a personality who looked beyond the mountain peaks and became a film star by chance. He is rooted deeply in his homeland and renowned throughout the world. For me, his work has always been inspiring in many respects. His talent, versatility, creativity, vigour, joie-de-vivre, and closeness to nature motivate me on a daily basis. I wanted to breathe life into this brand, but then the brand breathed life into me”, says Michi Klemera, the founder and managing director. He is, of course, talking about Luis Trenker the climber, actor, and film director, whose films about Alpine landscapes have gained cult
status. The name, which Klemera and his initial co-founders - his brother Hansjörg and Markus Meindl - are allowed to use due to their friendship with the Trenker family, has been at the core of the brand philosophy since 1995. Who Invented It?
“We stand for 100 percent Alpine lifestyle made in Europe. We combine tradition and modernity. We are fashion, sport, and ‘Tracht’ all in one. We are the best in this niche and we feel very comfortable in this unique position - both in the mountains and in urban areas”, he explains. In 2016/17, this strategy yielded a turnover increase of 25 percent. The world of Luis Trenker consists of two fashion brands: “Luis Trenker”, an Alpine lifestyle collection with delivery dates for summer, winter, and Christmas, and “Berg by Luis Trenker”, an outdoor collection. There’s also a range of matching accessories. In addition to the core business, Luis Trenker teams up with partners to act as an ambassador for the Alpine
Fashion that cannot be pegged and translates Alpine ambience into textiles: Luis Trenker.
lifestyle in all areas of life. Today, it is also a flourishing hotel business that creates suites and furnishing concepts for Alpine luxury hotels. One of the customers is, for instance, Tirler Hotel on the “Seiser Alm”. The Alpine living concept for hotel suites is implemented in collaboration with Riedl, an interior specialist within the furniture group Wagner Living. The linen developed in cooperation with Daunenstep of South Tyrol and the infrared cabins developed with Physiotherm complement the wellness-related range. Luis Trenker even offers hotel cosmetics with the scent of hay blossoms and pine cones, which it produces in collaboration with Prima. In addition, the brand cooperates with the likes of Land Rover and Pistenbully. In the near future, Luis Trenker plans to expand into the culinary segment. Regional attachment remains the heart of the business - not only in terms of brand message, but also of structure. The license partners are predominantly based in German-speaking
countries. The production sites are rarely more than 200km away from Luis Trenker’s offices in Bolzano. A few carefully selected plants are located in Romania and Portugal. At present, the bilingual company serves more than 400 customers around the globe. Furthermore, the brand operates its own stores and shop-in-shop areas, while also being stocked by numerous multi-brand stores. The showroom in Munich’s Lodenfrey Park, which was opened in January, and an independent distribution department are aimed at strengthening the German market. In addition to Luis Trenker stores in Innsbruck (AUT), Kitzbühel (AUT), Keitum-Sylt (GER), and Wolkenstein (ITA), the label plans to open another branch in Vienna in July. In the long term, the international presence will be expanded. To this end, Luis Trenker will attend the Pitti again in 2018. “We still see enormous potential”, Klemera says. This also applies to growth rates. At the moment, the only way is up. www.luistrenker.com style in progress 217
152 WHAT'S THE STORY
Alchemy Equipment combines technical functionality, classic silhouettes, and timeless aesthetics.
“A blend of fashion and function.” - Frank Spiewack, vice president global sales & marketing at Alchemy Equipment.
Alchemy Equipment. PERFORMANCE-DRIVEN STYLE Alchemy Equipment, a New Zealand-based outdoor specialist, strives to occupy the niche of functional, technically sophisticated clothing in elegant everyday designs. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Alchemy Equipment
Campbell Junor founded Alchemy Equipment in Christchurch, New Zealand, in 2013. For more than 20 years, the founder had gained experience in the outdoor market in leading positions at brands such as Kathmandu and Mountain Designs, as well as the co-owner of Macpac. The combination of innovative and traditional materials and manufacturing techniques allows Alchemy Equipment’s collections to offer functional outdoor clothing with smart designs and elegant cuts. “I have been designing clothes for 20 years. These clothes were sold as outdoor products, but spent 90 percent of their lifecycle in urban areas”, 217 style in progress
Junor says. “That’s why we have set ourselves the task of manufacturing products that are both wearable in the city and in everyday life. However, they should also boast high quality standards, technical functionality, and high-end materials that allow them to last in rougher environmental conditions.” The functional materials not only include Pertex, Schoeller, and Toray, but - more importantly - organic cotton, silk, merino wool, hemp, and recycled polyester. In keeping with the minimalistic design language, the designers focus on a clear, reserved colour spectrum. The styles for women and men are complemented by a range of bags. With purchase prices between 30 and 276 Euros, Alchemy Equipment is clearly positioned in the premium segment. Frank Spiewack, the vice president of global sales & marketing, explains: “Alchemy Equipment claims a niche that has been in demand among
retailers and consumers for a long time. Our customer appreciates function and performance, but also expects a fashion statement. He or she has grown up with outdoor products and values functionality, but certainly doesn’t want to look like someone straight from the mountains. They are the post-outdoor generation. We reach other customers with our factual, classic designs. Function has an additional ‘aha’ effect that serves as added value in terms of the purchase decision. The pure outdoor brands are still struggling with regard to fashion statements and many of them have no desire to make such statements. The fashion brands that turn their attention to functionality often don’t have sufficient know-how to implement it properly. However, the retail sphere is increasingly interested in functional clothing that is suitable for everyday use. We believe that we can occupy this niche.” As of November
2016, the general sales agency in Germany and Austria is Patrick Heinisch’s Agentur79. The deal does not include the German federal states Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg. Holger Befeld of 69Distribution is responsible for Bavaria, while Britta Schlapp serves the market of Baden-Württemberg. The Swiss sales representative is Dijana Perkovic of Transonic Trade. Together with Agentur79, the New Zealanders are in the process of setting up a warehouse system to ensure shorter delivery times. To date, the brand is present in 13 countries. “We strive to grow slowly and constantly. We don’t have to worry about investors who expect fast results. We are small, but beautiful. We truly embody New Zealand, so to speak”, Spiewack adds. www.alchemy-equipment.com
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Clean and straight, but with fun inside GG&L returns its focus to its brand core.
In the first row - Nicole Bailly sees the re-launch of GG&L as a project that is very close to her heart.
George, Gina & Lucy. BRAIDS OFF Nicole Bailly has decided to radically restructure her brand. The pruning process has given the brand George Gina & Lucy back what it almost lost during its meteoric rise and subsequent fall: its identity. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: GG&L
At the height of her success, many alleged consultants told her to sell the business. “However, that’s not my understanding of entrepreneurship. My father proved that - as an entrepreneur - one can fall and get back up again. Highs and lows are part of the game, which is why I believe that it is my duty to see this through too.” Nicole Bailly calls it cleaning up and cutting: old braids, heritage, and entanglements. But what will remain of the fun-filled trio George Gina & Lucy? “The brand core will remain - clean and on a solid base. We stand for the nylon bag, the karabiner, and the lettering.” For the longest time, GG&L had been reluctant to leave it all behind. The karabiner was getting smaller, the nylon was replaced with leather, and the logo was banished to the inside. None of the supposed trading-up measures were able to stop the downward trend after a meteoric
rise. At the end of the line, the brand was in free fall. No More Balancing Acts
This was a wake-up call for Bailly, who is now at the helm herself for the very first time. “I have learned a lot in the last few months. I suddenly have to take care of issues that I never have to deal with. Maybe it was this blend of naivety and radicalism that allowed me to bring GG&L back on track.” One can sense instantly that the anonymous brand, which always pushed the product to the fore, has developed into Bailly’s personal project. “I discontinued all previous lines and products as of spring/summer 2017; I sat down with our designer, Yvonne Waider, and we redesigned everything. Newer silhouettes, lighter models - we are now modern and contemporary again.” This might be a simple task in some companies, but at GG&L it’s a real balancing act. There are, after all, very few brands with a more dedicated fan base. Hardcore GG&L collectors document and discuss even the tiniest developments in chat groups and online forums. Bailly is quite approachable for such fans. “I offered to invite this year’s annual general meeting - yes, that’s how highly organised they are - to our
headquarters in Langenselbold. We decorated the showroom tastefully. They felt incredibly honoured, of course.” Now It’s About the Fans in Retail
Now that the fan base is back on board, the brand has turned its attention to winning back the retail partners. “I have always prioritised the wholesale segment. It is important to me that our products are appreciated by professionals.” It’s a matter of honour for Michael Bailly’s daughter. “My father and his wife have assisted me in all phases of our company. His advice was particularly important during this rather difficult phase. We were like a boat that had too many dinghies attached to it to navigate properly”, Bailly explains figuratively. This not only applied to GG&L itself, but also to the Departmentgreen conglomerate that includes brands such as Ganic Water and even a mail order business specialising in ballet shoes and sports jerseys. “We had so much creativity in us that we needed all these companies as valves. I have now severed all corporate ties and spun off all companies into separate entities. Now every boat needs to find its own course. That applies to GG&L, the largest boat, and all the smaller ones.”
There’s a Base
Initial talks with the retail industry encouraged Bailly in her plans. “Nobody has closed the gap that we left behind.” GG&L hopes to appeal to the modern generation with uncomplicated, cheeky bags in the entry price range. “This girl power generation needs GG&L bags in many life situations. It starts at school or university and ends at sport, on trips, and while going out”, Yvonne Waider explains. The current athleisure trend is just as beneficial for the business as the colourfulness and lust for life of today’s fashion. The visible new creative approach also fosters the projects that ensured survival in times of scarcity. The GG&L eyewear, for instance, is an integral part of the company with 1,200 points of sale. Then there’s the girlswear segment, which was established by Sanetta as a licensee. “It’s quite unbelievable what they have achieved in such a short time”, Bailly says while praising Sanetta Group’s Dr. Steffen Ammann and General Manager Gabriel Zboralski. Bailly is adamant that the ambitious entrepreneur will not manage to persuade her to share the textile potential of GG&L. “I need to clean up here first”, she laughs. www.george-gina-lucy.com
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154 WHAT'S THE STORY
Alpha Tauri operates two retail stores in Salzburg and Graz (pictured). More to follow…
Alpha Tauri. SUPERNOVA One could have just created a sophisticated merchandising collection. One could… Red Bull, however, decided to launch Alpha Tauri, an ambitious brand that quite deliberately breaks with many dogmas of the fashion industry. This is the story of the birth of a new star. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Alpha Tauri
Some ideas need time to mature, but not many companies can afford the luxury of allowing ideas to mature slowly and at high standards. It’s a clear advantage to be part of the Red Bull universe. However, founder Dietrich Mateschitz should not be mistaken for a kind of patron. On the contrary, projects 217 style in progress
that fail to make strategic and economic sense burn up swiftly in the widely ramified network that has been so much more than a mere energy drink company for quite some time. The empire includes, for example, a media house, football and Formula One teams, and Red Bull music studios. Today, Red Bull has 11,865 employees worldwide and generated 6.029 billion Euros revenue in 2016. Origins of the Name
A highly skilled team has been working on a project without an official name since 2014. Tanja Gündling, the head of retail, and Oliva Pflugfelder-Jünger, the designer, have been on board ever since the liaison between Drykorn and Red Bull, the preceding project that was active
between 2010 and 2014. Ahmet Mercan, the general manager, has extensive experience from his time at Puma and Lacoste. Felix Härtel, the head of marketing, joined the project from Holy Group. These four experts discussed, wrestled, planned, and discarded ideas. “Finding a name proved to be the biggest challenge”, Mercan recalls. No less than 30 agencies were invited to pitch their ideas. The most difficult aspect was letting go of Red Bull’s radiance. Artist Robert Rottensteiner finally came across Alpha Tauri, the brightest star within the Taurus star constellation. “Suddenly, we had come full circle”, Gündling adds. The name and logo provided a story that is worth telling. Creating a New Discipline
The Alpha Tauri collection positions the brand between sports and fashion quite deliberately. Furthermore, close ties with Schoeller Textil promise real innovation in terms of fabrics. The exchange is based on mutual appreciation; the two parties challenge and encourage each other. “We are, of course, the junior partner in this respect, but that’s exactly what makes us so appealing to a group like Schoeller. We are basically a start-up”, Mercan says. Red Bull has already secured the patent for a joint development: Taurex. Mercan describes it as “the taurine of clothing”. Fabrics that are treated with this technique return the energy emitted by the body to the wearer, thus increasing endurance and well-being. Did anyone say Red Bull to
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Alpha Tauri’s added value is based on function, technology, and real innovations.
wear? The creators of the brand can’t stifle a smile, especially as this is exactly the association they strive to trigger with what they call “Energy Wear”. As a Red Bull brand, one has to honour one’s roots. The Added Value
The revolutionary spirit of Alpha Tauri comes to the fore when one asks Mercan about the brand’s market positioning: “We offer clothing that boasts real added value without displaying it too visibly. Our pieces are certainly not functional wear and also not fashion in the classical sense.” In this context, it makes sense that Alpha Tauri has decided to start with its own retail operations and an online shop. Gündling’s former multi-brand store in Salzburg’s “Getreide-
gasse” is the proverbial nucleus of the brand’s sales activities. The retail expert at the helm explains: “We have so many stories to tell and our consumers are enthusiastic listeners. Before we knew it, people were willing to pay 599 Euros for our parkas.” The experiences gained from these retail operations - a second store was launched in Graz only recently - will provide an excellent foundation for when the brand enters the multi-brand sphere as of spring/summer 2019. “We can offer what retailers are in urgent need of. They simply need to be brave enough to think outside the box”, Mercan says while outlining the challenges ahead. Instead of changing everything each season, the brand works on editions of the collection’s key pieces. New
products are only released once they offer real innovation in terms of fibre or design. The plan is to launch at least one newly developed fibre or technology per year. The ambitious claim of Mercan and his team is to “break the devaluation logic”. But that isn’t the only agenda. “We’ve all worked in fashion long enough to know where the problems lie. When looking for retail partners, we certainly won’t team up with anyone who first wants to discuss a promotion rebate. We have no interest in building a brand that is incinerated by the retail trade within two years. We will only allow partners who have proven they are capable of telling our story to handle Alpha Tauri.” By the way, the selective approach has nothing to do with the fact that Red Bull is the
parent company. It’s all about the fact one has to admit that every piece, innovation, and story was “profoundly contemplated”. Suddenly, Mercan’s statement that Alpha Tauri “strives to be the Tesla of the textile industry and a real game changer” doesn’t sound presumptuous anymore. www.alphatauri.com
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FASHION 157
A change in thinking – instead of giving in to microtrends that change at an increasing speed, the focus is on depth, refinement, and improvement. The basis for a high-quality wardrobe is formed by classic styles – in the best sense of the term – paired with high-end materials. These are excellent arguments for an investment in – not the consumption of – fashion. Text: Verena Englbrecht. Photos: Manufacturers
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158 FASHION
Colmar Originals
“Workwear, military garments, and functional sportswear have always had a huge impact on our designs. The combination creates a casual look which is perfectly in line with the current athleisure trend. We like to combine fashionable everyday items with the comfort of hoodies, sneakers, and wide chinos.” Closed Design Team 217 style in progress
Essentiel Antwerp
Floris van Bommel
Alberto
Diesel Black Gold
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Athleisure
Closed
Schott N.Y.C.
C.P. Company
Airfield
Whether as a separate line or a trend element, the coming season proves that sport and fashion are irrevocably intertwined. When functionality meets urban streetwear, they merge to become the legitimate heir of the market segment we once called sportswear. In the women’s outerwear sector, blousons made of nylon fabric or in satin look are combined with jogging pants in cropped lengths or trendy track pants. The menswear world relies primarily on high-tech materials such as nylon and scuba-jersey in windbreakers and oversize hoodies that can be casually layered with knitwear and shirts.
Arkk
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160 FASHION
Strenesse
No Brand
Arkk
“We strive to provoke with feminine colours such as pink, rosé, and salmon in combination with monochrome colours such as black, marine, sand, and khaki, thus making new fashion statements. By adding accessories in silver and metallic gold, we pay tribute to the galactic theme world that has inspired the entire collection.” Walter Moser, CEO of Airfield Freds Bruder
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Fil Noir
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Pink Lady
Cinque
Bloom
Airfield
Superga
The colour of the season is undoubtedly very ladylike. The dominant colour theme of this summer’s womenswear collections is defined by powdery rose nuances including nude tones, peony pink, blushing apricot, and even pastel purple. There are no limits in terms of implementation. Summery knitwear and finest cotton qualities can be combined with luxurious silk tops. Tone-in-tone creates even more fun. The style is complemented by accessories such as bags, scarves, and colour-coordinated shoes.
Penfield
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162 FASHION
“Intricate details and silhouettes are reminiscent of Miami in the 1970s and 1980s, while innovative materials create a paradisiacal future.� MAC Design Team
Liu Jo
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French Connection
7 for all mankind
M Missoni
Stetson
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Preppy Denim
Denim as it should be: not washed to the brink of destruction and not used, but merely simple and rigid in non-stretch qualities that allow the designers to create striking volumes. A consistent colour tone and it doesn’t necessarily need to be blue - focuses the gaze on the cut and silhouette. Wide leg and tight body - this is the formula of this season’s “Blues”.
Alberto
Strellson
Dawn
Strenesse
Closed
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164 FASHION
Alberto
Alpha Studio
Cinque
“The classic tuxedo with lapel silk and Galon stripes shows a break with tradition by combining it with an unbuttoned piped shirt and sneakers, thus translating into a contemporary everyday look. A real flower on the lapel allows the ‘Modern Gentleman’ to make a tonguein-cheek fashion statement.” Gregor Langerspacher, head of design at Joop Menswear
Serapian
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Windsor
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EasySuits
Stiffness be gone! Suits and sports jackets are great, but they need to be casual in style. The trend is supported by sporty jersey fabrics and light seersucker qualities. The cuts are a little more removed from the body, but it would be impudent to speak of a “new width�. Styling is paramount: loosely folded hems, t-shirts and printed shirts, and a high-class pair of sneakers or loafers.
Strellson
Lardini
Stetson
Joop
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166 FASHION
Alchemy Equipment
Bomboogie
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“The men’s collection of SS18 range from bomber jackets to the inevitable parkas. For women there are also light dust coats and parkas, all available in oversize fits. All styles are made of natural fibres such as cotton and linen, combined with technical fabrics such as nylon and neoprene - an absolute must-have for the summer season!” Enzo Fusco, owner and creative director Blauer USA
G-Lab
Parka London
Minimum
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Park(a) Avenue
Antony Morato
Parajumpers
Blauer USA
Woolrich
It’s always not summer somewhere. Bowing to the parka is nothing short of textile realism. Mild evenings remain an exception. This is where the parka comes into its own, especially as everyone has enough summer down in their wardrobe. The focus is on parka styles made of parachute silk, cotton, denim, and waxed surfaces. Minimalist cuts and oversize silhouettes add a new spin to the conventional parka, yet are still in line with expected functionality.
Schneiders
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Il Bisonte
Marc O’Polo
Saint James
Amor Lux
Bloom
Edward Copper
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Stripes
Some of you may argue that stripes are never completely gone. That’s true, but sometimes they are more “here” than usual. This applies to next season, for example. Inspiration is drawn from either the maritime world or the good old 1990s. The range is wide: vertically striped blazers in black and white, ringed knitwear, the classic pinstripe suit, or contrasting stripes on silk blouses.
Silk Sisters
“The marine look is reinterpreted with elaborate details and flowing silhouettes. Coral, tile, and stripe prints are the focus of our collection, both on tops and scarves. The pattern mix is omnipresent and is reminiscent of the relaxed summer style of the Hamptons. The colour spectrum includes bright white, as well as the blue and red tones so typical of the marine style. A restrained beige tone rounds off the look.” Ulli Ehrlich, head of design at Sportalm
Sportalm
Lucky de Luca
Windsor
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170 IN STORE
Scandinavian minimalism, American heritage, and British rock & roll - this is the inspiring mix offered by Martin Vestphael’s Wardrobe 19.
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REAP WHAT WE SOW WARDROBE 19/ COPENHAGEN
The menswear range is timeless and certainly not mass-produced.
Value for money - quality is more important than the price. By following this maxim, Martin Vestphael has managed to create a coherent store concept based on cool and casual menswear that doesn’t bend to the dictate of the seasons. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Wardrobe 19
Martin Vestphael believes it is possible to spot Wardrobe 19 customers from 100 metres away. “Our style is somewhere between Scandinavian minimalism, American heritage, and British rock & roll. We love that mix”, the Wardrobe 19 owner explains. What sounds so difficult to reconcile is unconventional and harmonious - uncompromising and compelling. ALTERNATIVE CONCEPT Martin Vestphael was no stranger to compromise when he was working as a store manager for a commercial fashion concept and was also responsible for the development of a price-focused menswear range. “The job sounded great in theory, but I became increasingly frustrated. I had to make so many concessions in terms of materials and workmanship.” This is what triggered his desire to open his own store; a store that should be the complete opposite of what he was used to. Martin Vestphael found a suitable location in a small side street of Copenhagen and launched Wardrobe 19. The term “wardrobe” is supposed to
remind Vestphael to only order what he would put in his own wardrobe. Initially, the range was fairly contemporary, but that changed over the years and has now matured into an increasingly timeless menswear range. For example, the store stocks trousers and shirts by Whyred, a minimalist label with a British attitude, as well as casual menswear by Hansen, a Danish label that manufactures exclusively in Europe. It also offers raincoats by Stutterheim, knitted sweaters by Anderson-Anderson, and hats by Brixton. Last but not least, the store showcases Uncle Bright, a collection designed by Martin Vestphael himself. The latter is inspired by traditional workwear and complemented by shoes manufactured in Spain. “Our products may be 20 percent more expensive than in the store around the corner, but they are 40 percent more valuable”, Vestphael explains. “Our customers don’t merely spend money. They actually invest in an excellent wardrobe.” Martin Vestphael knows that it takes time to put together a good wardrobe; one
needs to buy less products of higher quality. “That’s why it is important that the brands we work with don’t change their respective style every season, but rather focus on developing their own brand DNA. This means that customers can combine their very first Wardrobe 19 purchases with their most recent ones.” Martin Vestphael is all about genuine pieces of desire that are more than mere fashionable oneday wonders. “The right piece can follow you into your sleep. It’s as if it’s a planted seed that grows before you can reap the rewards.” This is exactly how the 30-year-old goes about ordering new labels for Wardrobe 19. He only purchases what is perfect for himself, regardless of the price. OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Today, Wardrobe 19 is supplemented by an online shop that is clearly eager to carry the store’s identity into the online world. In September last year, Vestphael opened another store, named W19, in Copenhagen’s trendy Vesterbro district. Due to increasing rental fees in the city centre, the creative scene is
moving to that particular area. Only half the labels overlap with Wardrobe 19, while the rest are up-and-coming brands. One thing, however, applies to both stores: the customers want to explore paths off the beaten track and support the small business. Last but not least, they want to buy something unique.
WARDROBE 19 Larsbjørnsstræde 19, 1454 Copenhagen/ Denmark www.wardrobe19.dk Opening: July 2010 Owner: Martin Skovbo Vestphael Store manager: Mathias Vogt Christoffersen Employees: 3 Sales area: 65 sqm Brands for men: Adidas, Ally Capellino, American Vintage, Andersen-Andersen, Brixton, El Al, Filling Pieces, Filson, Garment Project, Grenson, Hansen, Journal, The Last Conspiracy, L’Homme Rouge, Livid, NN.07, Norwegian Rain, S.N.S.Herning, Stutterheim, Whyred, Uncle Bright, Wolverine 1000 Mile, Zanerobe Accessories brands: Dick Moby, Hestra, Kaibosh, Smiths CPH, Tid Watches
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PLACE OF INTEREST ICON/SALZBURG
Rudolf Kail, the owner of the ACO fashion agencies in Germany and Austria, is hoping to tap into Salzburg’s tourism potential with his design store Icon. The store opens in a fairly famous location. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Icon
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These premises, located in Salzburg’s Münzgasse, have been made famous by many names: Penny Lane, Casa Moda, and Napapijri. The latter was run by Rudolf Kail himself. After Casa Moda’s Wilfrid Wetzl closed his concept store for men, Kail decided to clamber back into the driving seat. He believes in the potential of the town in which he spent his youth, especially in the potential of the never-ending streams of tourists looking for precious items for themselves and as gifts for others. One should probably point out that we’re not talking about flocks
of Japanese tourists anymore. Salzburg has started to attract an increasing number of wealthy Chinese, closely followed by travellers from the Arabian regions and Russia. These target groups love everything about European brands. Even if a bag by a brand that is unknown in the aforementioned corners of the world is the most beautiful object in a store, guests from China will always choose the well-known luxury product. “That’s quite understandable, especially when they are buying the item for someone else”, Kail points out. That’s why he almost
exclusively orders from the first lines. “In contrast to our predecessor, who focused on men only, we will also offer goods for women with an emphasis on accessories. One third of our stock is for women, two thirds for men. However, we want to balance those percentages.” LUXURY, LUXURY, LUXURY Kail mainly orders the comprehensible items within a collection. “A day tourist can’t buy a three-piece suit that needs to be adjusted. That’s why accessories and sportswear items like t-shirts are the focus of our buying
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Giving products a stage: Icon of Salzburg focuses on designer fashion.
strategy.” Doing business with tourist groups is “organised and predictable”, which is why Kail can afford to set his sights on tourists as a target group. This is noticeable when one takes a close look at the product range. “Sizes, for example, are different for the Asian target group. We have a lot of depth in terms of smaller sizes.” Nevertheless, Kail also hopes that Icon will attract affluent Salzburg residents. “Naturally, we are thrilled when they buy from us. Regular customers are always of particular importance in the premium segment. In addition to the stationary business, Icon will be connected to the online platform Farfetch. From his own experience, Kail knows that a high percentage of the luxury goods are sent into every corner of the world, which
is good for the return rate. With this in mind, it is not surprising that Kail feels the budget requirements of the first lines are “really not that bad”. “I think it’s quite normal for a brand to demand a certain budget. What is bad is when you aren’t allowed to order a sufficient amount of a hyped bag. If you don’t have that bag that was pushed by social media, then it doesn’t even matter if you have ten other bags by the same brand. The new marketing options have, in this case, caused an extreme polarisation. Customers want that one bag or no bag at all.”
Rudolf Kail channels his extensive experience in wholesale and retail into his Icon Store in Salzburg.
ICON SALZBURG Münzgasse 2, 5020 Salzburg/Austria www.icon-salzburg.com Owner: Rudolf Kail Employees: 5 Brands for women: Balmain, Christopher Kane, Coach, Furry, Kenzo, Maria Lucia Hohan, Mr. & Mrs. Italy, Pinko, Thomas Wylde Brands for men: Balenciaga, Balmain, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, Gucci, Kenzo, Lanvin, Saint Laurent, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tom Ford Accessories brands: Balenciaga, Coach, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Lanvin, Linda Farrow, MCM, Saint Laurent, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tom Ford, Valextra, Zanellato style in progress 217
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WESTSIDE STORY MAGASIN/LOS ANGELES
New York goes West. High ceilings, lots of light, and concrete floors in a loft-like new building allow Magasin to bring the urban wind of the East Coast into the sunny glamour metropolis of Los Angeles Text: Carolin Reiter. Photos: Lana Sanders
Josh Peskowitz, a stylist from New York who founded Magasin, heeded the call of California. L.A. is the place to be. The 37-year-old, who was - until recently - the fashion director of Bloomingdales, simply couldn’t find a suitable location for a unique boutique like Magasin in his hometown. “New York no longer offers space for creativity”, Peskowitz explains. “Even the rents are prohibitive for young designers and unconventional thinkers. The city is frozen in its own style.” Peskowitz, however, insists on room for individualism. Magasin certainly brings a new look to Los Angeles. Until then, the city had been dressed either very casually or very conservatively. The shelves and racks are filled with things that he himself would wear, including brands such as Levi’s, Golden Goose Deluxe Brand, and Piccolo. In addition, Peskowitz asked Eral 55 to manufacture jackets from dead stock - unworn, high-end items that he has collected over the last few decades. “There is no universal 217 style in progress
High ceilings, concrete floors, and fresh green: Magasin spices up its industrial ambiance with plants.
dress code anymore. The modern man has personality and fashion self-esteem”, Peskowitz says. “He no longer distinguishes between work and leisure clothes. The modern man is always on the move and celebrates every occasion with nuances.” According to Peskowitz, combination is the key. A single designer item with a special cut, made of an unusual material, or in a bold colour can change an entire look. URBAN STYLE COMBINATION FOR THE SUNNY WEST COAST Peskowitz had been dreaming of owning a store since his 16th birthday. “In my youth, men had just started discovering their fashion sense”, he recalls. In the mid-1990s, he already wore his own combination of Ralph Lauren polo shirts, Stussy, DKNY, and sneakers. “The weather always plays a role in New York”, Peskowitz says about his street style from back then. “An outfit must be able to withstand the elements outside and also work indoors.” After graduating in fashion merchan-
dising, Peskowitz worked in boutiques, but also as a fashion journalist for Esquire, Men.Style. com, and GQ.com. For his store in Los Angeles, he teamed up with Christophe Desmaison and Simon Golby, two retail experts. Both are partners at the renowned CD Network showroom in New York. Golby successfully introduced the Italian brands Brunello Cucinelli and Boglioli to the American market. Peskowitz picked the location for Magasin very carefully. The high-income Westside of Los Angeles is on the up. Ever since Google relocated its headquarters to the area, the districts of Venice, Santa Monica, and Culver City are experiencing a boom and show an increasing appetite for art, culture, and fashion. This is an ideal environment for Magasin’s upscale premium fashion and the corresponding price structure. This is where fashion-conscious men live. “The elements are not as important in the daily sun of California as they are on the East Coast”, Peskowitz notes. However, the carefully selected items
at Magasin can also be combined into fashionable outfits in the ever-present summer. The result is an urban style blend of East Coast and West Coast.
MAGASIN 8810 Washington Boulevard, Suite 101, Culver City, US www.magasinthestore.com Opening: March 2016 Owners: Josh Peskowitz, Simon Golby, Christophe Desmaison Employees: 5 Sales area: 150 sqm Brands for men: Camoshita, Golden Goose Deluxe Brand, Engineered Garments, Eral 55, Levi’s, Massimo Alba, PT01, Salvatore Piccolo, ts(s) Accessories brands: Feit, Golden Goose Deluxe Brand, M. Cohen, O’Keeffe, Yuketen
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A new style for the new Californian: finest materials and ingenious cuts in combination with street style is what Josh Peskowitz stands for.
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176 IN STORE
Brighter, friendlier, more modern - the new shop-fitting concept is aimed at providing clear orientation for all Keller-Warth customers.
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OPEN FOR NEW THINGS KELLER-WARTH/ BIBERACH
Long live the village! Günter Warth has pushed ahead with a very courageous conversion of his family business’ flagship store - more room for fashion and more room for the company’s future. Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold. Photos: Keller-Warth
Günter Warth and Claudia Hahn, his significant other, have converted the flagship store of their family business.
The Warth dynasty has been among the most significant retailers in Biberach for five generations. The village in the eponymous district in Oberschwaben is located in a prospering region. “The fact that we still have an intact, lively city centre is owed to the initiative of local retailers. They teamed up to form a regional advertising association at a very early stage. Our city has consistently rebuffed greenfield retail projects, which is why its attractiveness has increased steadily. We have a number of chains and franchise concepts here too, but - more importantly - also many owner-managed stores.” With a total of fifteen stores (nine in Biberach), KellerWarth is a major player in its own right. It was high time to give the flagship store a revamp. THREE FLOORS - THREE TARGET GROUPS The conversion was preceded by a rethink in terms of product
range. The family business was eager to become younger, fresher, more open, and more independent, to offer customers an appropriate platform that mirrors their respective styles. On the ground floor, the young spin involves brands such as Save the Duck, Rich & Royal, Please, and Opus. Then one ascends to the next floor, via the new staircase - the centrepiece of the conversion. “Seeing that the construction measures were so dramatic, we had to close the store for three weeks.” However, the company was willing to accept the downtime in order to free the store of its charm of days long gone. The experiment was successful; during the first few days after the reopening, it became apparent that the customers were able to navigate the newly created “worlds” effortlessly. The first floor houses leading brands such as Marc O’Polo, Juvia, Drykorn, and Set. The second floor harbours a department that
oscillates between a strong Marc Cain World and niche labels such as Tagliatore, Harris Wharf London, and Herno. “We have defined our target groups clearly, which allows us to present almost every customer - from the young to the more classically inclined - with a world that represents her”, says Günter Warth. Bright colours in a restrained shop-fitting concept with feminine elements: Keller-Warth is refreshed and rejuvenated. The brands, which were formerly on show on the second floor, have not disappeared. “At the beginning of March, we opened a separate Keller-Warth Classic store 150 metres down the road. It stocks Brax, Rabe, Maerz, Basler, Schneiders, Monari, and Eterna - a ground-floor store perfectly suited to those who enjoy this particular fashion.” The clear profile permeates through the entire business.
KELLER-WARTH Marktplatz 15, 88400 Biberach/Germany, www.warth.de Reopening: February 2017 Owners: Roland and Günter Warth Employees: 15 in flagship store, approx. 100 in total Sales area: 420 sqm Brands for women: Cambio, Chiara Boni, Drykorn, Harris Wharf London, Herno, Insieme, Juvia, Frogbox, Marc O’Polo, Max Volmary, Mos Mosh, Nice Connection, Opus, Piu & Piu, Please, Raffaello Rossi, Riani, Rich & Royal, Save the Duck, Set, Someday, Steffen Schraut, Tagliatore, The Mercer (N.Y.) style in progress 217
178 IN STORE
THE ITUNES FOR SOPHISTICATED FASHION FANS GARMENTORY
An online shop for indie fashion - Garmentory affords independent stores and designers an opportunity to offer their products to a large audience. It lures its customers with an unusual sales model. Text: Petrina Engelke. Photos: Garmentory/Arcade Original
One word summarises the charm of Garmentory perfectly. The website combines selected stores that offer fine yarns at the level of the likes of Comme des Garcons, Schott, Rachel Comey, and Black Crane. However, it always uses the term “boutique”. It certainly sounds exclusive. It sounds like a place that offers things nobody else has and where one feels well cared for. From boutique hotels to boutique investment firms - it seems like every industry is out to steal a bit of the sparkle. Garmentory,
on the other hand, returns to the roots. AN ONLINE SHOP FOR ALL FAVOURITE STORES The Canadian-American start-up could become the iTunes for discerning fashion fans. Garmentory allows you to buy a Lemlem poncho from the Boutique St. Cloud in Houston, Texas, a t-shirt dress by Won Hundred by LCD from Los Angeles, California, and a pair of Sun Buddy shades from the Working Title Shop in Toronto.
“I think that customers are looking to find items that are really unique and well-made. And indie boutiques have always been dedicated to offering this kind of shopping experience”, says Adele Tetangco, who founded Garmentory together with app developer Sunil Gowda. She is excited about the prospect of doing the same with a larger audience. Some of the involved stores already have their own online shops, but for some it’s the first step towards e-commerce.
In line with the guidelines of Garmentory, the styling has to tell a story. The website always offers new examples for inspiration.
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CONSTANT SEARCH FOR INSPIRATION FOR CUSTOMERS When shipping to locations outside North America, one still has to deal with duty and tax issues. Nevertheless, there are some European names on the website, such as Emma Pardos in Barcelona, the Berlin-based brand Kimem, the Swiss label Berenik, and underwear by LÖV of Austria. Tetangco is aware of the concerns and desires of the stores. She has been working in the fashion industry for ten years and has advised both brands and smaller businesses in the past. When a new store asks to join Garmentory, she first evaluates its perspective: “Is it different? Do their products tell a story by how they are styling the clothing? Will our customers be inspired by them?” She turns down stores when the
range isn’t a fit for her audience. One example was a store that only sold pipes made of wood. “It sounds silly, but it happens”, she reveals. More than 400 boutiques have joined to date and the range was extended to include menswear a few months ago. PRICE REDUCTION AS SUSPENSE The fact that Garmentory became popular so quickly is partly due to the “Make an Offer” category. This section affords stores and designers an opportunity to upload fashion for which interested customers can place bids. If the store in question accepts the bid, a parcel is sent out (free of charge in the US and Canada). If the store believes the bid is too low, then the piece remains
online without other customers being able to see past bids. “The offers are all over the place”, Tetangco says. “It makes it exciting for both the shopper and the store.” However, she doesn’t force anybody to participate in this particular price-shaping experiment. Garmentory also has a section where the stores can - as is usual - define the prices themselves.
From time to time, Adele Tetangco, a co-founder of Garmentory, visits stores that collaborate with her online platform - such as Idun in St. Paul, Minnesota.
WWW.GARMENTORY.COM Contact for stores and designers: stores@garmentory.com Founded: 2014 Headquarters: Seattle (US) and Vancouver (Canada) Employees: 13 Boutiques: more than 400
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180 EDITOR’S LETTER /// ABOUT US
We Can Do This! The future of cities is inextricably linked with the future of the specialised retail trade.
The discussions about Sunday trading have reached a new dimension. For many years, the issue was a typical topic for the summer slump, predominantly in the context of tourism aspects. In the last few years, the discussions have been fuelled by the need to address the question of equal opportunities for stationary retailers and their ever-growing online competitors. However, there has never been any real movement on the issue. Against their better knowledge, both unions and the church have continued to conjure up images pertaining to the idyllic nature of Sunday excursions within the family. Politicians have been seemingly unwilling to cross swords with either of the aforementioned lobbies. Even the representatives of the retail trade have shown a fairly differentiated opinion on the topic. In fact, a liberalisation of opening hours would currently present far-reaching challenges for retailers. And let’s not forget that this is about liberalisation, not about selective exceptions. The prospect of having to work regularly on Sundays would make the search for qualified personnel even more difficult, especially as working in retail is not perceived as a dream job. Even if surging personnel costs would immediately cannibalise the additional sales generated by new opening hours, one could still argue that one at least didn’t lose customers and their purchases to online competitors. However, this certainly isn’t the be-all and end-all. In the media, the demands for said liberalisation have regularly faded faster than they were raised, mainly because even the advocates never believed in its implementation. Now, however, we finally have a public discussion on a topic that perceives Sunday trading as a symbolic aspect of a societal challenge of enormous proportions. The erosion of the inner cities has transformed from a theoretical danger into a reality that can be observed in real time. It has reached a dimension that transcends the outcry of local communities. Almost all major newspapers have reported on the issue over the past few weeks. Stefan Genth, the chief executive of HDE, was the 217 style in progress
most outspoken in terms of demanding action from politicians: “Administrations need to look after their inner cities. The retail trade can no longer handle this alone.” This appeal by the “highest” interest representative comes very late, but it’s better than nothing. Many years ago, I argued in this magazine that a functional and thriving retail landscape is the glue that holds cities together. There are many reasons why this glue has become increasingly ineffective. The fact that e-commerce has changed consumption behaviour is merely the reason that’s easiest to explain. A few of the other reasons are the explosion of rental fees in many cities and the aforementioned problems in terms of personnel recruitment. After all, employees need to embrace the USPs of stationary retailers: consulting, service, and passion for the product. A string of completely absurd legal obstacles and constraints, as well as an increasingly hostile financing environment, also make it more difficult - or even impossible - for young entrepreneurs to successfully establish their own businesses that ensure a living income. Just to come full circle, I will mention the opening hours once more. It has never been more important to reach consumers when they are actually willing to consume. This is hardly the case on a Monday morning. Nobody really perceives Sunday trading as a panacea, despite the dogmatic preservers of the laws governing opening hours accusing retailers of exactly that. However, the political sphere must finally move the topic “Future of the Specialised Retail Trade” (and thus also “Future of Cities and Municipalities”) to the top of its agenda. That would instil hope: “We can do this!” Yours truly, Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at
Publisher, editorial office, advertising department and owner UCM-Verlag B2B Media GmbH & Co KG Salzweg 17, 5081 Salzburg-Anif Austria T 0043.6246.89 79 99 F 0043.6246.89 79 89 office@ucm-verlag.at www.ucm-verlag.at Management Stephan Huber Nicolaus Zott
Editors-in-chief Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Martina Müllner-Seybold martina.muellner@ucm-verlag.at Art direction/production Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@ucm-verlag.at Contributing writers Maria Aschauer Verena Englbrecht Petrina Engelke Isabel Faiss Ina Köhler Kay Alexander Plonka Carolin Reiter Nicoletta Schaper Quynh Tran Photographers Peter Straub Marina Vorobyeva Illustrator Claudia Meitert Image editor Anouk Schönemann Johannes Hemetsberger Advertising director Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Publisher’s assistant, distribution Sigrid Staber sigrid.staber@ucm-verlag.at Christina Hörbiger christina.hoerbiger@ucm-verlag.at English translations Manfred Thurner Printing sandlerprint&packaging 3671 Marbach, Austria Printing coordinator Manfred Reitenbach
Next issue 18 October 2017
#2/2017
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