How to Plant and Grow Myrtle

Myrtle is a spectacular evergreen shrub native to the Mediterranean and Middle East—and it has long been used as a symbol of love. It features aromatic branches of dark green, glossy leaves that are often used in floral arrangements and prized for their sweet, spicy citrus scent. In early summer, myrtle bears small white flowers that develop into purplish berries. These are often used to make mirto, a bittersweet Sardinian and Corsican liqueur.

Depending on the cultivar, myrtle can be grown as a container plant, bonsai, small shrub, or tree.  It is also drought-tolerant, deer-resistant, and amenable to frequent pruning—which makes it an excellent choice for hedges and topiaries.

Where to Plant Myrtle

Myrtle prefers full sun and well-drained soil but is otherwise adaptable to a variety of garden types. In fact, its uses in landscapes are largely dependent on variety. Dwarf cultivars (like Myrtus communis ‘compacta’) are excellent in containers, as edging plants, or as compact hedges. Other cultivars (like twisted myrtle, a.k.a., Myrtus communis ‘Boetica’) can grow 12 feet tall and wide and can be trained into a showstopping accent tree.

Add myrtle to a cottage or coastal garden to enjoy its fragrant, showy white flowers in midspring and early summer. Or, plant it near a path where you can brush by its aromatic foliage and enjoy the release of its eucalyptus-like scent.

How and When to Plant Myrtle

In the spring (or early fall in warmer climates) choose a location for your myrtle with full sun and well-drained soil. Dig a hole slightly wider than the plant's root ball and deep enough for the plant to sit at the same level it did in its container. Tease apart the plant's roots with your fingers and place it in the hole. Backfill the hole and water your plant thoroughly. If you are planting more than one myrtle plant, place them 12 feet apart (or 3 feet apart if you are growing a hedge).

If planting myrtle indoors, choose a container with excellent drainage and fill it partially with a mix of 2/3 potting mix and 1/3 peat moss. Place your myrtle plant in the pot and continue filling the pot with your prepared potting mix. Tamp the soil down just enough to secure the plant and water thoroughly.

Myrtle Care Tips

Myrtles are Mediterranean natives that fare best in climates that mimic Mediterranean weather (with warm, dry summers and cool, rainy winters). They require little to no maintenance once established and can live for decades in a welcoming environment.

Light

Outdoor myrtles thrive in full sun—at least 6 hours a day—but can tolerate light shade. Indoor myrtles also require a lot of light. Place your plant in a south-, east-, or west-facing window to catch the most daylight. Be mindful of the fluctuations in heat and light exposure between seasons. Too little sun will cause the plants to grow spindly, and too much heat may cause the leaves to wither, dry, and curl.

Soil and Water

Myrtles prefer moderately fertile, well-drained soil that is slightly acidic to alkaline (6.0 to 8.3 pH) but can adapt to sandy, loamy, or clay soils if they are well-drained.

Outdoor myrtles should be watered regularly when young. If your region does not experience regular rainfall, plan to water as often as once a week (or more often in very hot weather). Older myrtles are more drought-tolerant. Avoid overwatering as myrtles are prone to root rot and yellow leaves when grown in excessively wet soil.

Container-grown myrtles should be watered deeply whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry—especially in early spring before flowers appear. Saturate the soil with water and allow the excess to drain away.

Temperature and Humidity

Whether grown indoors or outdoors, myrtles prefer moderate humidity and temperatures between 30˚ and 95˚ Fahrenheit. They thrive in climates that mimic the warm, dry summers and wet, mild winters of their native region. They are hardy plants that can tolerate temperatures down to 10˚ as long as they are sheltered from harsh, icy winds.

Fertilizer

If you are growing common myrtle as a shrub, apply a balanced (10-10-10), general-purpose fertilizer annually in early spring before flowering begins. Myrtles grown as trees may benefit from an application of balanced fertilizer every 2 to 3 years.

For indoor myrtles, use a weekly application of liquid fertilizer during the active growing season (spring and summer) or throughout the year if your plant continues to produce flowers.

Pruning

Remove spent flowers or dead branches from your myrtle shrub or tree in early spring or late winter. Each spring in the first two years, pinch young shoots to promote bushiness and lightly prune your myrtle to maintain its shape and structure. If you know the shape you would like your mature myrtle to be, use this as a guideline, but don’t over-prune. Use sharp pruning shears to make clean 45˚ cuts and trim the shrub back to as much as one-third (if you wish to control its height).

Once established, myrtles take well to hard pruning and can be trimmed into a topiary or custom shape. After the blooms have faded, remove some of the oldest branches or crossed stems to encourage airflow.

Potting and Repotting

Young myrtles should be repotted every 1 to 2 years depending on their growth rate. Older myrtles can wait 3 to 5 years. If your myrtle is too large to repot, refresh the soil every spring to keep the plant vibrant. Simply remove the top several inches of potting soil and replace it with fresh soil.

The best time to transplant myrtle to a new container is in early spring or in the fall after flowering has stopped. Choose a new container 2 to 3 inches larger than the previous pot and fill it partially with a mix of 2/3 potting mix and 1/3 peat moss. Water your plant thoroughly and allow the water to soak in. Remove the plant from its container and inspect the roots. Prune away any rotted or diseased roots and untangle the rest. Place your myrtle in its new pot and fill the pot with your fresh soil mix. Water thoroughly and keep the soil evenly moist (but not water-logged) as the plant adjusts to the new container.

Pests and Problems

Outdoor myrtle is most prone to pest attacks (from spider mites, scale, and thrips in particular) in spells of hot, dry weather. When growing myrtle indoors, watch for scale, whiteflies, and mealybugs—especially in warm, dry spaces with low light. Both indoor and outdoor myrtle may suffer root rot in soggy soil.

How to Propagate Myrtle

The simplest way to propagate common myrtle is to take a softwood cutting in early summer or a semi-hardwood cutting in early fall. Use a sharp, sterile knife or shears to cut a 4- to 6-inch, healthy section (preferably early in the day). Remove the leaves from the base of the cutting and dip it in powdered rooting hormone. Place the cut end in a soilless mixture of peat moss and perlite and secure the stem upright with a skewer or chopstick. Place a plastic bag over the container and keep it in an area with bright, indirect light. Keep the potting medium warm (about 60˚ to 70˚) while your myrtle takes root, but don’t allow it to get too hot. A heating pad designed for seed germination works well for this task. Once the cutting has rooted (which may take 6 to 9 months), transplant it into a pot filled with high-quality potting mix.  

Types of Myrtle

Twisted Myrtle

Myrtus communis 'Boetica' gets it name from the contorted growth of its trunk and branches, which grow 6-10 feet tall and 4-8 feet wide in zones 8-11. Its dark green leaves are cupped, and because they have almost no petiole, they appear to hug the stem. Like other myrtles, it has fragrant white flowers and foliage that is aromatic when crushed.

Variegated Myrtle

Myrtus communis 'Variegata' has the same aromatic white flowers and fragrant foliage as the species, but its leaves have creamy-white margins. The dash of white brightens the landscape and provides a wonderful contrast to the ripening berries. Variegated myrtle eventually grows 8-10 feet tall in zones 8-11.

Dwarf Myrtle

Dwarf myrtle (Myrtus communis 'Compacta') is a low-growing evergreen shrub that typically grows only 2-3 feet tall and wide in zones 8-11. If unpruned, it produces small white flowers in the summer and little black berries.

White Fruited Myrtle

Myrtus communis 'Leucocarpa' is a rare cultivar that features fragrant, leathery green leaves, white flowers, and clusters of aromatic white fruits. It is less cold hardy than other varieties, so plant it in an area with protection from harsh winter weather.

Companion Plants for Myrtle

Boxwood

If your goal is to turn your myrtle into a topiary, boxwood makes an excellent garden companion. It’s hardy in zones 4-9 and if you live in zones 8 or 9, you can pair boxwood and myrtle for a variety of shapes and textures. Boxwoods grow best in full sun and evenly moist, well-drained soil. They are frequently used as hedges or as garden borders.

Catmint

Catmint is a perennial powerhouse and easy to grow in zones 3-9. Each summer, it bears rich purple blooms just as the spring bulbs are finishing and before many summer perennials begin to bloom. It's also a fast-growing plant that can reach 6 to 12 inches tall and 1 to 3 feet wide.

Grapes

When looking for companion plants, you can’t go wrong with other Mediterranean staples—case in point: grapes. Grapes of different types are hardy in Zones 4-10, so chances are, there's a grape for your location. Grapes tolerate a variety of soil types, but fare best in well-draining soil. Like myrtle, grapes prefer all-day access to sun, so choose an area with ample exposure.

Russian Sage

Russian sage is an herbaceous perennial that is hardy in zones 4-9. Like myrtle, it prefers full sun and well-drained soil. All parts of Russian sage are quite fragrant when rubbed or crushed. So, alongside myrtle, it will draw a plethora of pollinators to your garden. Plus, the wispy texture and lavender color of Russian sage provides a stunning contrast to a stand of shrubs or trees.