Margutta is by now a Rio fixture, having been in business at the same address for twenty years. It has tables with fresh linens, experienced waiters in crisp uniforms, and a mainly senior clientele. The menu is trilingual, in Italian, Portuguese, and English. Upon arrival,...we ordered a bread basket, which turned out to be heated rolls, obviously brought in from some industrial source, accompanied by three tasty spreads, including delicious fried eggplant cubes and two tasty dips. Although the accompaniments were good, the bread was very disappointing and represented a bad start to our meal. Even at the corner bakery much better bread is easily available. As a starter we had Sauté di funghi freschi trifolati, which struck us as overly salty and too peppery by international standards. The taste of the mushrooms did not make it through the heavy-handed seasoning. Again, a bit of disappointment. For main we had the restaurant’s special twentieth anniversary offering, Riso alla prescatora. This dish was excellent and partially made up for the previous disappointments. It had a generous amount of seafood and rice in the Italian style and even comes with a commemorative souvenir plate that is offered by the restaurant to the diner as a gift. For desert we had what is known in Brazil as ‘petit gateau’, essentially a fondant au chocolat. Again this seemed to have an industrialized origin, but it was no worse than in most other Rio restaurants. Overall, there were some disappointments and some high points, especially the main and the professional service. We were not entirely dissatisfied with our meal, but there seems to be no good reason to return Margutta any time soon.More