Looking Back at the Grand Concourse’s First Century

Grand ConcourseCourtesy of the Bronx County Historical Society Research Library A 1919 photograph shows a carriage heading west off the Grand Concourse, toward the elevated train line (now the No. 4 subway) and the growing Highbridge neighborhood. In the background at right is the old Huber’s Hotel, now the site of the new Yankee Stadium.

Grand Concourse, the Bronx’s most famous street, has been compared with Ocean Drive in Miami Beach, because of its concentration of Art Deco and Art Moderne architecture, and the Champs-Élysées in Paris, because of its grand proportions and its emergence from the City Beautiful movement.

Conceived in 1890 as a way of connecting Manhattan to the northern Bronx, the Grand Concourse was designed by Louis Aloys Risse, an Alsatian-born engineer, and opened in November 1909.

To honor the centennial of the Grand Concourse, the Bronx Museum of the Arts has organized a yearlong, three-part exhibition. The first installment, “Intersections: The Grand Concourse at 100,” about the history of the boulevard, opened on March 5 and is on view through July 20. Subsequent installments, about the street’s present and future, will open in August and November. As the culmination of the series, seven new designs — representing visions for the Grand Concourse’s future — will be selected through an international architectural competition co-organized by the museum and the Design Trust for Public Space.

Grand ConcourseCourtesy of the Bronx County Historical Society Research Library The block that now contains the Bronx Museum of the Arts, at Grand Concourse and 165th Street, as it appeared in 1906. The museum was founded in 1971.

The first installment of the exhibition traces the Grand Concourse’s remarkable history with works of art, architectural drawings, prints, photographs and other objects. The show traces Risse’s vision of a “transverse road,” slicing through farmlands; the rapid expansion of the area that accompanied the extension of what are now the D and No. 4 subway lines and the spurt of Art Deco and Art Moderne residential buildings that lined the boulevard in the 1930s.

Among the items I found the most intriguing during my visit to the exhibition last weekend were a series of eight black-and-white photographs — their maker unknown — of the unveiling of the Heinrich Heine Monument in 1899. (The fountain is also the subject of a 2000 video installation, by Pia Lindman, also in the exhibition.)

The Heine memorial, a sculpted fountain that is often called the Lorelei Fountain, honors Heine, the German Jewish Romantic poet who died in 1856. The memorial was intended to be placed in Düsseldorf, Heine’s birthplace, but because of anti-Semitism it was without a home. Efforts by German-American New Yorkers, including Carl Schurz, led to the statue’s placement in the Bronx, where it now stands, at the southern end of Joyce Kilmer Park.

The show also includes Diane Arbus’s famous photograph, “A Jewish Giant at Home with His Parents in the Bronx,” showing Eddie Carmel towering over his parents. Carmel, who grew to be 8 feet 9 inches because of a pituitary-gland disorder, died in 1972, two years after the picture was made.

Perhaps the highlight of the show is an artwork by Skowmon Hastanan, a series of brightly colored vinyl tiles, arranged in a loose grid-like time line, containing quotes, excerpts and narratives about the Bronx’s decay and revival — a narrative in which the Grand Concourse has been deeply embedded.

Many New Yorkers have forgotten that the Grand Concourse was once called the “Park Avenue of the middle class,” and a model for real-estate developers (and speculators) who extolled the intense planning that transformed the rocky, rustic landscape into a magnificent north-south thoroughfare. Archival materials like a 1929 real estate prospectus from the Crawford and Hammersley estates, and a 1935 issue of the American Builder magazine, show the close ties that existed between urban planning and the real estate industry.

As the South Bronx slipped into decay in the 1960s and 1970s, becoming a national symbol of urban blight, there were efforts to preserve the Grand Concourse as a sort of buffer that would prevent the whole of the Bronx — including its priciest, more fancy sections, like Riverdale and Marble Hill (geographically in the Bronx, though considered Manhattan) — from falling to the forces of disinvestment, arson and crime.

The blight is documented, in the show, by a gritty series of 1976 photographs of South Bronx residents, taken by the Brazilian artist Hélio Oiticica.

Slowly, as the Hastanan work documents, the combined efforts of community development corporations, city planners and others took fruit, giving rise to the revival for which the Bronx has become famous.

Grand ConcourseCourtesy of Daniel Hauben Daniel Hauben’s unfinished painting “Bronx Vortex,” which he started this year. The work is part of the first installment of a yearlong, three-part exhibition honoring the centennial of the Grand Concourse.

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This is a grand article. The history of a street or a neighborhood gives visitors and residents a sense of context and continuity.

I was born in the Bronx and grew up at 1185 Grand Concourse in the late 1940’s – 1950s, before our family moved to NJ. I have only lovely memories of it. Great article – thanks!

Perley J. Thibodeau March 18, 2009 · 2:09 pm

Like Al Jolson happily told the woman playing his elderly mother in, “The Jazz Singer.”
We”ll get out of the Lower East Side, ma. We’ll move up to the Bronx!”

I recently ran a wonderful (and challenging) half marathon along parts of the Grand Concourse. It was a special experience to run the course and envision what it must have looked like back when my father grew up there in the 40’s and 50’s on Creston Avenue. I don’t live there anymore, but I will always love the Bronx!

Great article, but a little surprising that there is no mention of Robert Moses.

We called it “The Concourse,” and growing up in the thirties on that elegant boulevard was a pleasure for a young boy. With little traffic, I was able to ride by bike from 161st Street to 172nd Street safely, and play with my friends on the side streets with joy and abandon. My parents walked it proudly on Sundays, my father in his spats and with fancy cane, my mother in her finest. A lovely place to belong.

I grew up in The Bronx (Da Bronx) and have very fond memories of the Grand Concourse,especially the intersection with Fordham Road. My mother used to send me on a trek to Sutter’s Bakery to get a cheesecake and to Krum’s for candy.
I recently made a trip back to my old neighborhood and the house I grew up in (1725 Andrews Avenue) and I sat down on the curb and started to cry. I wanted to know where my neighborhood went to. I liver in Oakland Gardens, Queens,
now and it in many ways remind me of The Bronx–a suburban Bronx. That writer who said you can’t go home again was right. I’ve always said you can take the boy out of The Bronx, but you can’t take The /bronx out of the boy.”

I moved to the Bronx from Harlem in 1932 at the age of two. I remember watching the parades down the Grand Concourse on holidays and that was a great treat for me even during the hard times of the 1930s. I also marched in a parade there when I was a member of the national guard at Kingsbridge Road. Though I moved out of the Bronx and New York 50 years ago in 1959 but I will aways be a Bronxite and a New Yorker. Long live the Bronx and New York.

IKE GABAY

Marble Hill is not part of the Bronx, although it is contiguous.
It is certainly not as expensive or fancy as Riverdale.

Poster #7 how right you are – I grew up not far from the Concourse, in the Pelham Parkway section of the Bronx, in the late 1950s, 1960s. Long gone away, I still dream about the bus trip between Pelham Parkway and the shopping areas of Fordham Road at the tip of the Concourse. What a lovely place to grow up in, and, despite what the article says, it WAS lost to crime, arson, poverty, and ghetto culture. Those gorgeous buildings and spacious, detail-filled, parquet-floored apartments were gutted, decayed, and destroyed. They are only shells of what they were between the 1930s-1960s. Perhaps it’s true as Heraclitus said that the only constant in the universe is change, but I still grieve. If one COULD go home again, I probably would. No place has ever seemed as much home to me since as that area of the Bronx.

I lived at 1153 Grand Concourse from the late 1940s to the early 1960s. The tree-lined Concourse was nicknamed the “Champs Elysee of the Bronx.” I doubt if any of us knew what that meant except that it was probably a compliment—for the Champs Elysee.

I returned a few months ago and, though there were certainly changes, I felt that the spirit of the place that I had experienced was still there. (I wish someone would restore the Fish Building.)

Thank you for an evocative article.

Elaine Israel

I Grew up on 167th street and Walton Ave. in the 1940-1960. The Concouse was the Broadway of the Bronx. There were parades on the center of the Concouse on Memorial Day and other holidays and the viewing public was enormous. Walking on the councouse was like the high point of the day. The coucourse Plaza Hotel was at its begining and it went up to Missula Parkway. about 5 miles of elegant living and fine shopping,especially wher it met Fordham Road and the Alexanders Department Store. The Concouse was the Bronx’s claim to fame. It was world famous. Those were the days

I grew up on Walton Ave between Mt. Eden and 174th St, one block from the Concourse. I loved the old neighborhood and miss the times with all of my heart. I have a photo essay online of the old neighborhood and for me, I will be returning in the next few weeks for another walk through the old neighborhood visiting the lovely sights of the Concourse. The beautiful art moderne of the Bronx Courthouse, the Fish Building, the art deco buildings along the Concourse and of course my old block.

The memories of the parades, the afternoons at the Loew’s Paradise, the walks along the Concourse with my grandmother and grandfather and the rides on the bus to and fro will always be treasured.

I also grew up in the 167 th street neighborhood just off the Concourse. I add two small bits of information to the discussion.

The people who lived on the Concourse were considered a tad more affluent than those just one block to either side.

The medien strips between the local and express vehicular lanes of the Concourse were landscaped with trees. At the time of planting they were memorials, each dedicated to a WW I soldier who died in that conflict.

Miss BoogieDowner [TM] March 19, 2009 · 6:57 pm

How far the mighty have fallen!

Thanks for the great article. I was born and raised in the East Bronx during the 30s, 40, and 50s. The memories are priceless treasures. I will always be a “Bronxite”. The Concourse was an extra special place–what a treat it was to go there. Had my wedding reception at the Concourse Plaza Hotel on September 6,1952. If you missed THAT party-too bad!

I Ilived on and around the Grand Concourse near Kingbridge Rd. from about 1935 through 1955, attending Public School 86 and DeWitt Clinton High School. When we (my parents and I ) lived at 2615 Grand Concourse across the street from Poe Park and the former home of Edgar Allen Poe, we felt affluent compared to other areas of The Bronx. It was great driving to Manhattan as the Councourse had staggered traffic lights so one could drive non-stop from top to bottom. I entered the Service from that address in 1942 and returned there in 1945. It had not changed. The Knights of Columbus right next door and the Home for the Blind just north of us and the Jewish Holidays with the ladies’ furs and Eisenhower jackets are a distant memory. So, too was Becky from Poe Park an older woman who sought young men or so I was told.

Your article brought a flood of memories. I also stood along The Concourse watching parades as a child. Prior to Yankee games we would stand outside the Concourse Plaza hoping to get autographs from players staying there. Those were far less complicated years. To this day I live in the Bronx, although now in the Spuyten Duyvil section. When first married, in 1970, relatives urged my wife and I to buy a home in the suburbs. The borough, however, was falling on hard times and suffering from a shrinking tax base. Neither of us felt comfortable leaving The Bronx at a time of crisis. We have never regretted that choice.

Hello everybody, as an archivist of Saint Avold in Lorraine a small town near the german boarder, let me just say, that your article had a mistake. Louis Alois Risse the famous engeneer in our city was born in Saint Avold, March 28, 1850. His family has been living here since the 17th century.
He isn’t an alsacian but was born in Lorraine a region near Alsace.
He settled to the USA 1867, and leave all his life in New-York where he died 1925.
Good luck for your exhibition

Pascal Flaus archivist in Saint Avold

We lived on Walton Ave and Clarke Pl. right between the Concourse and Jerome Ave. If you wanted to take the IRT, it was right there straddling Jerome Ave, or you can jump on the D train running under the Concourse. The Concourse was an elegant boulevard line with classy apartment buildings covered in Art Deco. We left in 1970 because of the crime, arson and drug use that infiltrated the once lovely Bronx. I did take my son up to my old shopping stomping grounds on 170th St. All of the stores I remembered shopping at with my parents were gone, Woolworth’s was gone, Thom McCann shoes was gone. They have all been replaced by stores whose primary language is not English. As a kid I always wanted to go to the Cascades pool and cabana, but my parents could not afford it. I always thought that only the folks that lived on the Grand Concourse could afford to go the Cascades.

From age three to age nineteen, I lived at 450 Grand Concourse in the lower Bronx; a part of the Grand Concourse that no longer exists. Hostos College now stands on that site. In the 1930s and 1940s, the boulevard between 144th and 149th street held early 1800 gothic buildings on the east side and directly across the boulevard, stood a grand castle like structure known to us children as the ‘Castle on the Hill’ Public School 31. A well designed play ground bordered the school. Both, the IRT Subway or corner Concourse bus line, carried me north to Walton High School, one block west of the concourse. Later the 149ths street subway system took me south to college. The Grand Concourse was a beautiful, clean, place to live. After WWII, most families who arrived before or during the depression, moved to the suburbs as did ours.

What a gift…the article and the Bronx. We lived at 1201 Ogden Avenue but our weekend routine with young friends was to walk to the Grand Concourse, do window shopping, go to Krums for an ice cream and view all of the beautiful decorated candy. If lucky to have enough money from babysitting, we would attend a movie at the Lowes Theatre…we would dress up and melt into a fantacy world, surrounded by the majesty of the art and decorations the building contained. I imagine that my love of art developed as a child wondering the Concourse and looking into the buildings lobbys viewing some of the most wonderful tile work, marble and artwork that decorated those grand buildings. I left some 40 years ago, but always claim being a Bronxite….it was a humble but wonderful life as a child, filled with an eclectic group of individuals each neighborhood consisted of……a mix of old world Europe and the hope of a new modern America. Everyone was family and it was a safe place to grow as a child. My daughter recently stayed with an old neighborhood friend and visited my old building with my youngest grandsons…it was great to see the building still standing and none worse for wear…..
…..what a gift….Da’ Bronx.
Joyce (Carucci) Coopwood

Michelle Parker-Rock May 17, 2010 · 3:26 am

Came upon this site while doing some research for a new book. I also lived at 1201 Ogden Avenue during the same time the previous commenter did. “Hi, Joyce. We share many of the same memories.”