If you’ve never seen a colugo before, you’ll be forgiven for being shocked by this grotesque creature, this bat-squirrel love child with marbles for eyes. You see, when you spot a colugo, it’s usually clinging motionless to a tree trunk, eyes wide open but somehow unseeing:
I was delighted, though. This was already the third wildlife sighting of my afternoon on Penang Hill, and they had all been effortless. If you enjoy connecting with nature and hope to spot some of the most exotic creatures in Malaysia’s tropical rainforests, Penang Hill is the best place to start.
A brief history of Penang Hill
Penang Hill, or Bukit Bendera (‘Flagstaff Hill’) is home to the highest point on Penang Island, which is part of the Malaysian state of Penang. Penang was the first of the Straits Settlements established in 1826 by the British East India Company, but when the British arrived in the 1700s, the Minangkabau people of Sumatra were already using the area as a trading post.
With the (false) promise of British military aid to the then-Sultan of Kedah, explorer Francis Light took possession of Penang Island and founded George Town – Penang’s modern-day capital – as a free port to compete with Dutch trading posts. Penang Hill, being the highest and coolest point on the swampy tropical island, soon became a resort for wealthy British colonists, Europeans, and later rich Chinese towkays (business owners).
After World War II, Penang became part of the Federation of Malaya, which gained independence on 31 August 1957. Today, Penang Hill remains a popular tourist attraction, but it’s also an ecologically significant site with the Penang Hill Biosphere Reserve listed in the UNESCO World Network of Biosphere Reserves.
Getting up (the easy way): Penang Hill Railway
Before you discover the treasures of Penang Hill, though, you have to get up there. And that in itself is an activity that will give you the thrills. First, the “easy” way: riding the Penang Hill Railway.
The Penang Hill Railway, while so named, is actually a funicular that zips right up the hill, giving you a view of Penang island as you climb at a terrifying pitch. You’ll also ride through a 79m long tunnel track that, at a 27.9° incline, is the steepest in the world!
Initially constructed in the 1920s for British colonial settlers, the Penang Hill Railway gets you to the top of the hill in less than five minutes, where you’ll step out onto a viewing platform and museum gallery.
The funicular runs every 30 minutes 6:30am-10pm, but queues (both to buy tickets and to board) can get quite long and the ticketing counters close at 7:45pm. If you want to skip the queue, buy your Penang Hill Railway ticket online from Klook or Viator.
If you prefer to get your tickets in person, make sure you avoid the scheduled maintenance dates.
Getting up (the adventurous way): Hiking Penang Hill
The only other way to ascend Penang Hill is by foot, as cars aren’t allowed. This is a fantastic place to hike, with dozens of well-marked trails. If you’d like to follow the same route as the Penang Hill Railway, take the Heritage Trail.
That said, hiking isn’t necessary to see wildlife on Penang Hill. In fact, I spotted this Dusky Leaf Monkey and baby chilling on the rooftop of the funicular’s Upper Station, completely unperturbed by the hordes of visitors.
Visit The Habitat Penang Hill
If you find a walk in the tropical rainforest restorative, The Habitat Penang Hill is where you can take nature’s healing powers to the next level — by floating above the treetops. This ecotourism site was designed to grant partial access to the area’s prehistoric rainforests through its stunning viewpoints, allowing for tourism revenue that’s then used to fund environmental conservation activities.
In addition to a trail that was cut by the British East India Company, you’ll get breathtaking views of your surroundings at the Curtis Crest Treetop Walk – the highest accessible viewing platform on Penang Island – and the Langur Way Canopy Walk, which is the longest double-stressed ribbon bridge in the world. There’s even an opportunity for you to up your dose of nature-fueled adrenaline with two giant swings and the Flight of the Colugo zipline.
I was able to spot creatures big and small, from massive millipedes to a black giant squirrel, but you’ll need some luck and a good eye. The best time to visit is on Saturday and Sunday evenings, when the park holds a free Sunset Walk experience, and many wild animals are more active in the evening anyway. Get your tickets here.
Admire the Golden Stupas
Perched on verdant slopes overlooking George Town, The Golden Stupas of Penang Hill were erected by landowners of the Hye Keat estate, which once established fruit plantations at the foot of the hill. The shape of Buddhist stupas is believed to represent the Buddha as well as the five elements of earth, air, water, fire, and wisdom, and their placement here on the meditative hillside is wonderfully apt.
You can reach the Golden Stupas via this hiking trail (2 hours) from ground level, or take a shortcut (10 minutes) via the Middle Station of the Penang Hill funicular railway. However, only certain trips will stop at Middle Station and you’ll need to check this with the information counter at the Lower Station before boarding.
Tuck into delicious Penang cuisine
Penang food is widely regarded as the best in the region; with its multicultural populace and similar history, it easily rivals Singaporean food. While you’ll have no lack of options in George Town, Penang Hill also has its fair share of dining spots to fuel your explorations.
Lily Penang Hill Ice Kacang. This stall takes the traditional shaved ice dessert to a whole other level with toppings of fresh fruit, boba pearls, marshmallows, and more. It’s located in the food court at the top of the hill near Upper Station, so you’ll have the option of trying some nasi ayam (Malay-style chicken rice), char koay teow, and of course Penang laksa.
Kopi Hutan. Set in a local nursery, Kopi Hutan (‘jungle coffee’) draws visitors with its alfresco jungle setting. Despite the rustic ambience, this place is a teatime treat with coffee served in moka pots (along with tea and other drinks), sandwiches, and a selection of yummy cakes. It’s a 10-minute walk from Upper Station, but a free buggy is available to shuttle diners to and fro.
David Brown’s Restaurant & Tea Terrace. With panoramic views of the city spread out before it, this colonial-style restaurant is a favorite for gatherings and celebrations. The western-style menu features pasta, lamb, steak, and more. While there are a few beers and cocktails available, there’s no wine served here.
Stay overnight on Penang Hill
To avoid the crowds and really enjoy a nature retreat in Penang Hill, plan an overnight stay. Let the critters of the night serenade you to sleep under a blanket of stars, catch a magical sunrise, and take your time to spot more wildlife! While the accommodation on Penang Hill is more rustic than regal, they’re also very affordable. Here are some places to recommend:
Hillside Retreat ($) Our top pick. This cottage offers tastefully designed rooms with four-poster beds, budget-friendly bunker rooms, and camping spots – you can even rent a tent, air beds, and a BBQ pit. More details
Hickory on Penang Hill ($) Step back in time at this soaring colonial-era bungalow, now a 15-room guesthouse. More details
Bellevue Hotel ($) This homely spot has budget-friendly prices to match. More details
Getting to Penang Hill
By car/taxi: You can drive or use a ride-hailing app like Grab to get to Penang Hill Lower Station, where you can board the Penang Railway up the hill.
By bus: Look for the nearest bus stop with bus 204 to Stesen Bukit Bendera. Google Maps will show you the best routes.
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