At the heart of the Italian city of Milan stands the imposing Castello Sforzesco, one of the largest citadels in Europe. The castle's long and storied history dates back to the 1300s, but it takes its name from Francesco Sforza, the 15th-century Duke of Milan.
The Castello Sforzesco had two roles; it was a secure fortification for the Sforza family following their capture of the city, and it was a princely residence that expressed the Renaissance ideals of the upstart usurpers.
The castle stands on the grounds formerly occupied by an ancient Roman fortress, the Castrum Portae Jovis. It was originally built by Galeazzo II Visconti, and expanded by his successors, until the city and the castle was captured by first the Republicans, and then the Sforzas.
Turn around as you pass through the main gate, and gaze up at the richly decorated Torre del Filarete, designed by the renowned architect Filarete in 1452. The original tower was actually destroyed in 1521 by a gunpowder explosion, and a modern replica stands today.
The rectangular castle is organised around several courtyards. This one is known as the Courtyard of Arms. Today, the thick defensive walls are used to exhibit architectural remains, including Roman columns and sarcophagi, recovered from archaeological digs around the site.
On top of the south east tower, we have a good view of the courtyard. It might be hard to believe, but until the 1900s much of the castle lay in ruins - the result of centuries of invasion and neglect. It's down to the careful work of conservators that we can enjoy it today.
Here, we can see the original walls of the Visconti castle, and the deep moat that surrounded them. Today, this is known as the Dead Moat. As we pass through the portcullis gate, you can see the high walls of the Rocchetta to your left, and the ducal palace to your right.
These are the ducal apartments are where the Sforzas lived. We have to imagine the loggias and courtyard filled with activity and the walls decorated with frescoes. Today, only one survives, it was designed by Benedetto Ferrini in 1473, and depicts an elephant and a lion.
The Rocchetta was a fortress within a fortress. This enormous windowless, bunker-like wall was intended to be the ultimate defence. Its a sign of the fear that pervaded the family. Today, the Rocchetta is home to one of the castle's many museums.
We're inside the Rocchetta, in the museum of decorative arts. The collection holds objects that would have been familiar to the Sforzas, including Italian ceramics, Bohemian glass, Renaissance-era bronzes, and the highlight - all twelve Trivulzio Tapestries by Bramantino.
The ducal palace is also occupied by museums, such as this, the Armoury. The weapons, armour, sculpture, and architecture collected here all date to the 14th Century, around the time that the Sforzas captured the castle - they would have known these weapons well…
Some of the most important rooms in the castle have thankfully been preserved. This was once the Ducal Chapel, where the Sforzas worshipped under a magnificently painted image of heaven. You have to wonder what they were praying for…
The Room of Doves owes its name to the image of a dove against a radiant sun, repeated across the entire room. It gives the impression of being inside an embroidered tent, a stark contrast to the formidable walls that wrap around this private palace.
It's hard to believe, but we've only seen half of what once stood here. In the 1500s, the castle extended into the parkland to the north. If you had arrived here from anywhere in Europe, you'd have been impressed by the sight of it, and the luxurious welcome that awaited.
Thanks for joining this tour of the Castello Sforzesco. We're back where we started, in the Courtyard of Arms. Why not take some time to walk around the battlements? Imagine how it felt to be a guard, always watching, never sure of when the next civil war might erupt…
