The essential guide to visiting Scotland
Here’s everything you need to know about this land of lochs—when to go, where to stay, what to do, and how to get around.
Fast facts
Time zone: Universal Time (UTC+0)
Main airports: Edinburgh (EDI) and Glasgow (GLA) are serviced by major airlines, though some routes operate on a seasonal basis. Aberdeen (ABZ) has flights to 12 European destinations; Glasgow Prestwick (PIK) has flights to 11 European destinations.
Ferry ports: Car ferries run from Oban, Kennacraig, Mallaig, and Argyll to the Western Isles. For Shetland, take an overnight ferry from Aberdeen; for Orkney, take a ferry from Gill’s Bay (near John o’ Groats) or Scrabster.
Currency: Pound sterling.
Fun fact: Scotland’s national animal is the unicorn.
Why you should visit Scotland
Monumental mountains and misty glens. Castles with hidden stories. A dram of whisky straight from the source.
Best time to visit Scotland
Spring: Many attractions are open without summer crowds. Golf courses open in April; the season officially starts in May.
Summer: This is the ideal time for hiking and biking, although accommodations along the most popular routes—such as the West Highland Way—fill up well in advance. There are plenty of events, including the Edinburgh Festival and Highland Games.
Autumn: Changing leaves create arresting scenes in forests—it’s a great time to visit Perthshire, known as “Big Tree Country.” The Edradour and Glenturret distilleries are well placed for combining a walk with a whisky sampling.
Winter: The Edinburgh Christmas Market kicks off in November, and Scots prepare to celebrate Hogmanay (New Year’s Eve). On January 25, pubs honor Burns Night—the birthday of national poet Robert Burns—with a dinner of haggis, neeps (turnips), and tatties (mashed potatoes).
Lay of the land
Cities: Well-heeled capital Edinburgh hosts the world’s largest performing arts festival. The medieval Old Town looms over Princes Street gardens and the New Town with art galleries and chic bars. Glasgow is boisterous and friendly, with a lively music scene. Craggy Stirling, topped by the eponymous castle, was the site of several historic battles. On the east coast, Dundee and Aberdeen pack museums and maritime history into their walkable downtowns.
Highlands: Hikers flock to the heather-bound moors and mountains of Cairngorms National Park, overlapping the Speyside whisky-producing region. The landscapes surrounding Glenfinnan and Glencoe have featured in films.
Hebrides: The Isle of Skye is famed for its otherworldly topography. Flawless beaches await on Lewis and Harris. On Mull, stop by the colorful coastal town of Tobermory or scale the rugged slopes of Ben More.
Northern Isles: Neolithic sites, including Skara Brae, are scattered across the Orkney Islands. View Viking sites and the eponymous ponies on the Shetland Islands.
Southern Uplands: Stately homes and castles grace the Scottish Borders. Dumfries & Galloway is home to the Galloway and Southern Ayrshire UNESCO Biosphere and the majestic Sweetheart Abbey.
North East: Seek out royal connections at Glamis Castle in Angus, or Balmoral Castle in Aberdeenshire. Photogenic Perthshire is home to the prestigious Gleneagles hotel and golf course.
Central Belt: Relive the greatest victories of Robert the Bruce and William Wallace at Bannockburn and the National Wallace Monument, respectively. The John Muir Way spans 134 miles of lochs and woodlands.
Getting around Scotland
By plane: Daily flights operate from Glasgow to several Hebridean islands. Flights to Sumburgh (Shetland) and Kirkwall (Orkney) depart from Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Aberdeen.
By bus: National Express and Citylink operate buses between the major cities. Buses are limited in the Highlands and Islands.
By train: ScotRail runs most services in Scotland, mostly along the Central Belt. This reduces to a few main lines in the Highlands.
By car: Driving in Scotland is on the left and requires an international driving permit. Road types include motorways (M), A-roads (A), and B-roads (B). Scotland’s main roads include the A1 from London to Edinburgh; the A74(M)/M74 from Gretna to Glasgow; and the M9/A9, stretching from just outside Edinburgh to Thurso on the north coast.
By boat: Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) ferries sail to 21 Hebridean islands; Northlink runs car ferries to Orkney and Shetland. Book well in advance.
Know before you go
Scottish languages: Scots Gaelic (pronounced “gaa-lik”) is still spoken by around 60,000 people, mostly in the Highlands and Islands. English, however, has been the main language spoken in Scotland since the 18th century. Though many believe it to be a dialect, Scots (descended from Northern English) is a distinct language, spoken by 1.5 million people.
Hours: Even in cities, restaurants can keep restrictive hours, with some kitchens closing as early as 8 p.m. On Sundays, businesses often open at 1 p.m. and may close by 4 p.m.
LGBTQ+: Scotland legalized same-sex marriage in 2014. Glasgow hosts Scotland’s largest Pride festival, as well as the Scottish Queer International Film Festival (SQIFF) in autumn.
How to visit Scotland sustainably
Outdoors: Read the Scottish Outdoor Access Code before setting out. Avoid deer stalking areas between July and February. Refrain from stone stacking, which can cause erosion.
Dining: Farm-to-table—or, indeed, sea-to-table—is easy to find in this nation of farmers and fishermen. It’s increasingly common for restaurants to display ingredient provenance on their menu.
Shopping: Seek out independent farm shops and sustainable distilleries. Support Scottish artisans at rural markets and festivals, such as the Pittenweem Arts Festival. Check labels to be sure the products you’re eyeing were made in country.
Accommodation and attractions: The Green Tourism certification scheme, which now operates in 20 countries, was founded in Scotland. It assesses 70 criteria, such as ethical production, carbon, and waste. Certified members—including accommodations, attractions, and tours—display a Green Tourism plaque.
What to read
Scotland: A Concise History, by Fitzroy Maclean (Fifth Edition). The former soldier and politician brings bloody battles and national heroes to life. In the fifth edition, journalist Magnus Linklater adds chapters on Brexit and the 2014 independence referendum.
Rival Queens, by Kate Williams. The historian charts the alliance between Mary Queen of Scots and Elizabeth I of England, which ends in devastating betrayal.
Rob Roy, by Sir Walter Scott. The celebrated writer’s classic work takes place during the Jacobite Rebellion of 1715.
Raw Spirit: In Search of the Perfect Dram, by Iain Banks. A humorous travelogue of Scotland’s distilleries, from the iconic to the obscure.
(For more tips on what to do in Scotland, see our Explorer’s Guide.)
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