### 1930 KWV Muscadel Bin 14 Late Bottled Vintage

BY NEAL MARTIN | MAY 06, 2024

Ancient South African ports have a cult following, and though they are not cheap due to demand, they represent outstanding value compared to other wines.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714768201984-muscadel+1930+bottle_copy.JPG)

In Bordeaux, one dinner finished with a sensational bottle of **1930 Muscadel Bin 14 Late Bottled Vintage** from **KWV** , the government-run wine company in that era. Clear in color with modest bricking on the rim, the 1930 looks iridescent in the glass. The bouquet mesmerizes with seductive scents of raisin, fig jam, kirsch and cough candy. It is beautifully defined and gains intensity with aeration. Based on the aromatics, you would think it was 20 years old or even less. The palate is viscous on the entry, a perfect line of acidity that neatly offsets the richness of this LBV. Velvety-smooth with plushness and purity to spare, the finish offers molasses, Medjool dates and golden raisins. It is probably the best Vintage Port that I have encountered from the Cape. Despite its age, a cursory glance on the internet shows that bottles are available from some merchants. Buy one. You’ll be amazed. **97** /Drink 2024-2044.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1930 KWV Muscadel Bin 14 Late Bottled Vintage

Cellar Favorite: 1930 KWV Muscadel Bin 14 Late Bottled Vintage (May 2024)

### 1938 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Côte-Rôtie

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 29, 2024

When someone whispers into your ear, particularly _my_ ear, that you will never drink this bottle again, the aforementioned ear perks up. The **1938 Côte-Rôtie** from **Paul Jaboulet Aîné** had lived its entire life in a cool dank cellar over in the West Country, so factor in perfect provenance. Though the bottle states Jaboulet on the label, it is more accurate to look at this as an amalgamation of all the growers in Côte-Rôtie at the time since hardly any bottled themselves.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714161613638-cote+rotie+1938+jaboulet.JPG)

The 1938 is faded in color, as you would expect, yet lucid and clean. The bouquet is heaven-sent, unfolding with gorgeous vestiges of red fruit, fennel, white pepper and brown autumn leaves. Of course, it is not powerful, yet the delineation of aromas is captivating. The palate follows in a similar vein. Light, yet it still exerts weight in the mouth, perfectly balanced, hints of thyme infusing the light red fruit, almost Burgundian in style but with a tad more pepperiness on the finish. There is just something magical about this bottle, perhaps partly deriving from the fact that it might well constitute the last remaining unopened example and that this would be my solitary acquaintance. Magical. **97** /Drink 2024-2030.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1938 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Côte-Rôtie

Cellar Favorite: 1938 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Côte-Rôtie (Apr 2024)

### 2016 Domaine de la Grange des Pères Vin de Pays de L'Herault

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 22, 2024

It must have been a decade ago when I attended a vertical of Domaine de la Grange des Pères in London. Then, it was revered as arguably Languedoc’s only true cult wine and, combined with its price tag, I was rather put off.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713458602653-grange+des+peres+2016.JPG)

Nevertheless, a bottle of the **2016 Vin de Pays de L'Hérault** made it clear why Laurent Vaillé’s white and red won legions of fans. The vineyard is a blend of 40% Syrah and 40% Mourvèdre, cuttings originally from J-L Chave, plus 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Counoise, the goblet vines notoriously low-yielding. Deep in color, the 2016 has a youthful but well-defined bouquet: black cherries and Provençal herbs (wild fennel and thyme) with hints of Côte-Rôtie gaminess. It just feels very assured. The palate is, again, quite backward and suggests that it needs another three or four years. Yet it is very enjoyable with pliant tannins that frame layers of generous but not opulent black fruit intertwined with freshly picked wild mint and cassis. Velvety smooth in texture, this gorgeous Languedoc conveys a sense of classicism without shying away from expressive Mediterranean flair. Superb. **94** /Drink 2027-2045.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 2016 Domaine de la Grange des Pères Vin de Pays de L'Herault

Cellar Favorite: 2016 Domaine de la Grange des Pères Vin de Pays de L'Herault (Apr 2024)

### 1993 Domaine de Chevalier

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 15, 2024

Last October, I was in Bordeaux during the autumn _Porte Ouverte_ days, when locals can tour châteaux and attend evening dinners, many of which are inexpensive to take part in. I was tasting the 2021s on the same day as Domaine de Chevalier’s soirées, and proprietor Olivier Bernard invited me, along with around 200 other guests. With so many people, you need a large bottle!

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712940845828-domaine+de+chevalier+1993_covercopy.jpg)

The **1993 Domaine de Chevalier** was poured out of a gargantuan Nebuchadnezzar (1,500cl). To the best of my mind, 1993 is a vintage that I have not tasted before. Showing just slight aging on the rim, the bouquet is very attractive, without the greenness that blights quite a few Left Bank wines in this vintage. No, it is not powerful, yet it offers light red fruit interwoven with tobacco and bell peppers, a tincture of seaweed emerging with time. The palate is well balanced with slightly rustic tannins, but it is certainly fresh after three decades, doubtlessly assisted by the large format. The 1993 is saline in the mouth with a short yet focused, leafy finish. It is a delightful off-vintage Pessac-Léognan, and I suspect that more regular formats will still give pleasure. **90** /Drink 2024-2035.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1993 Domaine de Chevalier

Cellar Favorite: 1993 Domaine de Chevalier (Apr 2024)

### 1990 Latour à Pomerol

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 08, 2024

The **1990 Latour à Pomerol** epitomizes everything one could wish for in a mature Pomerol, but without paying a king’s ransom. Despite the highly regarded growing season, I approach this with modest expectations because these were not halcyon days for the estate.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712347932437-CF_April082024+%281%29.jpg)

Nevertheless, this bottle had a good fill and had come from a cool, damp cellar out in the West Country. Showing just a little bricking on the rim, the bouquet soars from the glass with wanton abandon: black plum, hickory, sage and shavings of black truffles, firmly into its secondary stage but patently having lost none of its vigor. It evolves over the next 90 minutes while the aromatics coalesce and gain intensity. The palate does not disappoint, either. It articulates the warmth of that summer yet is not dictated by it. The terroir comes through with glycerin-rich black fruit, fennel, black truffle, tobacco and just a little dried blood towards the finish. The 1990 is quite luscious in texture and yet fresh as a daisy. I pat myself on the back for introducing my fellow diner and Bordeaux neophyte to such a delicious wine. If you own bottles, don’t hesitate to uncork this Pomerol right now. Tasted at Noble Rot Mayfair. **94** /Drink 2024-2040.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1990 Latour à Pomerol

Cellar Favorite: 1990 Latour à Pomerol (Apr 2024)

### 2014 

### M & C Lapierre 

### Morgon Marcel Lapierre Cuvée MMXIV

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 01, 2024

The **2014 Morgon Marcel Lapierre Cuvée MMXIV** comes from 2.5 hectares planted in 1907-1910, just after phylloxera. The vines are located in the Le Douby _climat_, towards Fleurie, which the legendary Marcel Lapierre has intermittently bottled separately since 1999. Authorities refused the maiden vintage since it did not adhere to the typical Morgon style for reasons only known to them. To circumvent demotion into Vin de France, Marcel Lapierre’s son, the then teenage Mathieu, who is recounting this story in the sunny courtyard outside the winery in Villié-Morgon, suggested his father print the vintage in Roman numerals. Marcel worried that it would confuse foreign customers, but Mathieu pointed out how Americans numbered their Super Bowl (notwithstanding how many buildings and TV programs are dated in the UK). Henceforth, subsequent vintages have been numbered in this way.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711978493958-CF_Mon+April+12024+%281%29.jpg)

Now at ten years old, the 2014 is life-affirming, pure and harmonious on the nose. Not austere, rather airy, adorned with glinting shucked oyster shells commingling with vivid red cherry fruit. The aromatics…sparkle. The palate is linear, focused, vibrant and brims with energy. Outstanding in terms of balance with the almost understated, crystalline finish, this represents Gamay at its most sublime. Based on this bottle, the 2014 clearly has a long life ahead. **94** /Drink 2024-2040.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 2014 M & C Lapierre Morgon Marcel Lapierre Cuvée MMXIV

Cellar Favorite: 2014 M & C Lapierre Morgon Marcel Lapierre Cuvée MMXIV (Apr 2024)

### 2017 Domaine Samuel Billaud Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 25, 2024

I have praised Samuel Billaud’s wines for around a decade now, going so far as to suggest that they rank amongst Chablis’ premier tier of producers, alongside Raveneau and Dauvissat. A recent dinner at the splendid Lorne restaurant, the same that saw the 1973 La Fleur-Pétrus opened, also witnessed a bottle that ‘sizzled’ with potential.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711136202230-samuel+billaud+2017.JPG)

The **2017 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru** has a riveting bouquet with precise, flinty, petrichor scents that convey energy and terroir. Perhaps it shows less of the lemon sherbet element that I observed previously and more salinity. The palate is beautifully balanced with impressive tension and verve. Lime and lemon zest emerge towards the energetic finish that suggests this will drink well for 15 to 20 years…if you can resist temptation. **93** /Drink 2024-2040.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 2017 Domaine Samuel Billaud Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru

Cellar Favorite: 2017 Domaine Samuel Billaud Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru (Mar 2024)

### 1991 René Balthazar Cornas

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 18, 2024

The Northern Rhône is a region that I would like to know better. There is too little time with Burgundy and Bordeaux under my charge, so I look forward to future reports from my colleague, Nicolas Greinacher. A recent Riesling/Syrah-themed dinner was bejeweled with exquisite bottles and fodder for several Cellar Favorites. This one caught my eye. Balthazar is not a producer I know well, though friends speak highly of their wines, including recent vintages made by René’s son Franck, who took the reins in 2002.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710516310254-rene+balthazar_copy+%281%29.jpg)

The **1991 Cornas** epitomizes everything I adore about mature Northern Rhône, especially in this fecund vintage. To the best of my knowledge, this precedes the estate bottling, the Chaillot, as a separate cuvée and was aged in 8 to 10-year-old \_demi-muids\_. Showing modest bricking on the rim, it is relatively light in color for a Cornas. The bouquet is a spectral beauty and unfurls with vestiges of brambly red fruit, decaying autumn leaves, wild hedgerow, morels and a touch of bay leaf. It is paradoxically light, but there is real depth to the aromatics. The palate is fully mature, with melted tannins, yet it continues to exert a gentle grip. There’s predominantly red fruit: wild strawberry and raspberry intermixed with subtle tobacco and dried blood, irony notes. It is utterly harmonious and sensual towards the finish, coveting its rustic charm and leaving you entranced. Bottles were originally sold inexpensively, though they are highly sought after nowadays. If you are lucky enough to own a bottle of 1991, it is probably at its peak now. **94** /Drink 2024-2034.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1991 René Balthazar Cornas

Cellar Favorite: 1991 René Balthazar Cornas (Mar 2024)

### 1971 Staatsweingut Eltville Rauenthaler Langenstück Riesling Spätlese

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 11, 2024

My adoration for any bottle of wine born the same year as myself is well-known. I sound like a broken record proselytizing the 1971 vintage. But then a bottle sashays along and vindicates my opinion, reconfirming that this is such a trove of outstanding bottles, arguably none more so than Germany. This example was generously provided by a friend, Mark Savage MW, at a Riesling/Syrah-themed dinner at _The Good Earth_ in Wandsworth, a highly recommended Chinese restaurant. In halcyon days, German wines had equal cachet as Bordeaux, prices often on par with the top Grand Cru Classés. Received wisdom is that 1971 is the best German vintage of the decade, arguably one of the great 20th-century vintages for Riesling that shine as bright as the day they were born.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1709851371272-CF_March112024.jpg)

The **1971 Rauenthaler Langenstück Riesling Spätlese,** from the state-owned **Staatsweingut Eltville** in the Rheingau, is the manifestation of mature Riesling in all its unfettered glory. Iridescent in the glass, this wine sparkles with glee. The nose is plugged into the mainline electricity, full of tension and vigor. Scents of blood oranges, quince, candle wax and only a slight petrol note burst from the glass with thrilling delineation. The palate follows in a similar vein, built around a scintillating spine of acidity. This is a Riesling with surfeit tension and race, hints of tangerine and orange pith mixed with Japanese yuzu vying for attention. There is just a faint viscosity on the finish that begs you to take another sip. Simply magnificent. **96** /Drink 2024-2054.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1971 Staatsweingut Eltville Rauenthaler Langenstück Riesling Spätlese

Cellar Favorite: 1971 Staatsweingut Eltville Rauenthaler Langenstück Riesling Spätlese (Mar 2024)

### 1948 Coufran

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 04, 2024

I do not wish to sound like a broken record, but allow me to reiterate the most sage advice I will ever dispense on old bottles of wine. Provenance is key. Perhaps even more than producer or vineyard, how that bottle has lived its life determines how it will show once released from incarceration.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1709235210550-CF_March042024.jpg)

Take this humble **1948 Coufran**. This bottle had spent its life in a cool, dank cellar, hardly ever moved. Coufran is not a prestigious château, nor was this wine born in a particularly esteemed growing season, forgotten between 1947 and 1949. Yet, after three-quarters of a century, this Haut-Médoc elicited so much joy when served blind at a private dinner in Beaune. Sporting little aging on the rim, the bouquet is simple but unbelievably fresh, well-defined and charming. Vestiges of black fruit intermix with tobacco. The aromatics, for want of a better word, just seem joyful. That is translated onto the palate that, if you must quibble, is a bit rough around the edges, but undeniably well-balanced, with crunchy tannins, crisp black fruit, touches of smoke and tobacco and crucially, quite a noticeable saline finish that beckons you back for more. While not the easiest bottle to find, it is claret like this that habitually crops up at auctions, often inside mixed cases, that, if kept well, represent better value than more auspicious names and even recently released vintages. **92** /Drink 2024-2040.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1948 Coufran

Cellar Favorite: 1948 Coufran (Mar 2024)

### 1973 La Fleur-Pétrus

BY NEAL MARTIN | FEBRUARY 26, 2024

The latest in the series of “Don’t dismiss a poor vintage ‘til you’ve tasted it first” is a bottle of **1973 La Fleur-Pétrus** that was poured blind at the excellent [Lorne](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-lorne-london-uk-aug-2022) restaurant in London in January. Several years earlier, at the inaugural “Grouse Club”, Lord Bruce had left us dumbfounded by a **1973**  **La Fleur-Pétrus** from his legendary cellar. This bottle left us equally lost for words.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1708707744178-la+fleur+petrus+1973.jpg)

The 1973 shows modest bricking on the rim, but impeccable provenance ensures that there is no turbidity. The bouquet is fully mature and yet remains fresh, remnants of red fruit commingling with iron filings and subtle gravelly scents, so elegant and refined. In fact, the 1973 gains a little chutzpah with aeration in the glass but always…mild-mannered. The palate has a sublime balance, a nigh-perfect line of acidity, such pretty red fruit mixed with _sous-bois_ and tobacco that you immediately fall for its charms. When its identity was unveiled, we gasped not at the esteemed château but rather at the fact that it was born in a derided vintage. I have no idea what Jean-Pierre Moueix’s winemaker, Jean-Claude Berrouet, did in 1973, apart from waving a magic wand and turning potential frogs into princesses. **92** /Drink 2024-2034.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1973 La Fleur-Pétrus

Cellar Favorite: 1973 La Fleur-Pétrus (Feb 2024)

### Château Latour: 2024 New Releases

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | FEBRUARY 19, 2024

For more than a decade now, Château Latour has released their wines in bottle only after several years, when the team feels they are ready to start drinking. This year’s releases provide an opportunity to revisit wines from three very different vintages, each with something to offer. I tasted the wines with Technical Director Hélène Genin during a visit to the château in December 2023.

The **2019 Pauillac** is a serious wine. Dark cherry, plum, gravel, incense, licorice and pomegranate are all dialed up in this wonderfully deep, fleshy Pauillac. Deep and resonant, with fine balance, the 2019 captures all the natural radiance of the year. This is really quite stellar and delicious. A recent bottle of the 2009 reminded me how pleasurable the Latour Pauillac can be. **93** /Drink 2029-2036.

The **2018 Les Forts de Latour** is surprisingly approachable. It boasts serious concentration because of the warm dry summer and ensuing low yields, yet the intensity of the fruit pretty much covers the tannins, quite unusual for young Forts de Latour. Dark-toned fruit, gravel, incense, licorice and scorched earth add to the wine's distinctive sepia-toned personality. The 2018 turned out beautifully. **94** /Drink 2023-2038.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1708115415900-CF_Feb192024.jpg)

The **2017 Latour** is just starting to open aromatically. Medium in body, with tannins that have begun to soften, the 2017 is super-expressive and inviting today. It’s a charming, relatively accessible young Latour that is all about finesse and understatement. Bright saline notes and lifted floral top notes convey class. **96** /Drink 2025-2047.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2024 New Releases

Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2024 New Releases (Feb 2024)

### 1982 Pol Roger Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill

BY NEAL MARTIN | FEBRUARY 12, 2024

Our greatest Prime Minister, after Liz Truss, had impeccable taste in Champagne. Though I must drink far less bubbly than Sir Winston Churchill (probably like most people), I have always enjoyed the cuvée created in his honor. As the story goes, the PM met Odette Pol Roger in 1944 at the British Embassy in Paris, and their families struck up a close friendship.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1707749770928-pol+roger+1982+wc_copy.jpg)

Preceding a recent tasting of Coche-Dury’s 2020s that I shall write up separately, a magnum of **1982 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill** did the rounds to whet our palates. Pol Roger has always kept the blend secret, though clearly, it leans more towards Pinot Noir than Chardonnay. Only released in certain years, the first vintage was the 1975, released \_en\_ magnum nine years later at Blenheim Palace. After over four decades, one expected the sophomore 1982 to have a light \_pétillance\_. The nose is fully mature yet entrancing, dried honey, lanolin, grilled hazelnuts and touches of brioche intermingling, quite intense, a bouquet that demands your full attention (and gets it). The palate is, again, mature yet fresh and vibrant. There was perhaps just a scintilla of oxidation, though it merely imparts more complexity. Quite nutty towards its second half, it exhibits impressive weight and intensity, fanning out gloriously. Of course, in large format the 1982 comes across as less mature than equivalent bottles. But had Sir Winston himself joined us that night, I feel he would have approved, lit a cigar, and stayed to enjoy the white Burgundy! **93** /Drink 2024-2040.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1982 Pol Roger Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill

Cellar Favorite: 1982 Pol Roger Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill (Feb 2024)

### 2020 Domaine Bernard-Bonin Meursault La Rencontre 

BY NEAL MARTIN | FEBRUARY 05, 2024

Domaine Bernard-Bonin is a Meursault-based producer that I would dearly love to visit. For reasons I will not go into here, so far, that has not been possible. This has not prevented me from enjoying the occasional bottle that has come my way. Nicolas and Véronique Bonin farm nine hectares of vines, most certified biodynamic by AB and Demeter, with minimal intervention in the winery, for example, eschewing racking during 18 months of barrel maturation. In early October, I was reminded of the exceptional quality of these wines at a lunch where one of their bottles found itself sandwiched between no less than Meursaults from Arnaud Ente and Coche-Dury.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1706893589577-bonin+2020.JPG)

Despite strong competition, the **2020 Meursault La Rencontre** came out victorious. This cuvée emerges from two lieux-dits, Les Pelles and Sous La Velles, both populated with vines over 75 years old, matured with just 10% new oak. Lucid silvery in hue, the 2020 offers an exquisite bouquet laced with mineral-infused yellow fruit. It is almost Puligny in style, eliciting so much vibrancy and energy that it seems to be run off the mainline electricity. It’s amazingly well-focused. That is translated onto the palate, which has marvelous tension, with notes of linseed oil, yellow plums and orange pith. There is real depth and persistency in the mouth, a very subtle and unobtrusive reduction, plus a leesy finish that, thankfully, only gradually tapers away. It is a fantastic Meursault that will give 20, perhaps 30 years of drinking pleasure. **93** /Drink 2025-2045.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 2020 Domaine Bernard-Bonin Meursault La Rencontre

Cellar Favorite: 2020 Domaine Bernard-Bonin Meursault La Rencontre (Feb 2024)

### 1981 & 1992 Le Pin

BY NEAL MARTIN | JANUARY 29, 2024

Le Pin’s superstar status means that one can easily forget that this Pomerol was no overnight success and took several years to achieve renown. It was down to Jacques Thienpont’s perseverance and a little nudge from Robert Parker. It’s almost comical how cheap Thienpont sold his first vintages. I remember his anecdote, how he left a case with a Bordeaux merchant to assess in the hope of securing a sale, returning a year later to spot that same case unopened and gathering dust. Times have changed. Le Pin is a rare and expensive wine, and nowadays, it is almost impossible to find vintages from the early 1980s, partly because the tiny vineyard was even smaller, producing little more than 200 cases per annum from Thienpont’s original acquisition from Mme Loubie in 1979. (Those with copies of my Pomerol tome can see how Le Pin expanded incrementally over the following years.)

I have been fortunate to taste every vintage, though it is over a decade since I encountered one of the early ones. Visiting the estate in December, Thienpont served a bottle blind, a bottle that drew gasps from the audience…even from his better half.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1706539104057-le+pin+1981+bottle+%281%29.jpg)

The **1981 Le Pin** is a marvel to behold at 42 years of age, and I would argue superior to Petrus that year, having tasted that wine just a few weeks earlier. Showing modest signs of bricking at its rim, the bouquet is just beautiful: red fruit, sloes, shavings of black truffle and freshly rolled tobacco. Over the course of a couple of hours, it gains rather than loses vigor. The palate has admirable concentration, considering that this was not a benevolent growing season, quite full in the mouth with dark berries, tobacco, white pepper and clove. Very cohesive and even daring to fan out towards the finish, I hazarded a guess at the 1983 before Jacques Thienpont unveiled that it was two years earlier, his third vintage. Sublime, though nowadays, incredibly rare. **95** /Drink 2024-2040.

Seemingly on a whim, Thienpont whipped out another vintage just a couple of hours earlier. The **1992 Le Pin** came from a half-bottle. This has a light and leafy nose, indicative of a cooler growing season, touches of seaweed and autumn leaves, though cohesive and holding up well. The palate is medium-bodied, with slightly coarse tannins, at least for Le Pin, maybe a little attenuated towards the finish, but nevertheless, a respectable showing given that this was a dismal year for the appellation. **86** /Drink 2024-2030.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1981 & 1992 Le Pin

Cellar Favorite: 1981 & 1992 Le Pin (Jan 2024)

### 1983 & 1967 Domaine J.L. Chave L’Hermitage

BY NEAL MARTIN | JANUARY 22, 2024

Last year was such a treasure trove of amazing bottles that I completely forgot a dinner in February that finished with a pair of outstanding wines from Jean-Louis Chave. The **1983 L’Hermitage** is a vintage I have encountered a couple of times before, though not for some years. Gérard Chave would have made this. Now four decades old, the 1983 has a wonderful bouquet that has retained all its vigor, quite Burgundy-like with wilted rose petals that infuse the shimmering dark cherry and raspberry fruit. Hints of rooibos, Earl Grey and clove emerge with time. The palate shows an impressive body and gentle grip; the tannins have melted in recent years. It’s saline with just a distant tang of green olive. There is a touch of meatiness towards the finish that is extremely well-defined and surfeited with charm and character. Maybe it’s a little rustic compared to recent vintages, yet that is just part of its allure. **93** /Drink 2024-2040.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1705680816360-hermitage+1967+bottle.jpg)

The **1967 L’Hermitage** predates Gérard Chave taking over from his father, Jean-Louis, by three years, so I would guess father and son oversaw this. Nowadays, it is an elusive vintage, and this was my first encounter. But what a wine. The bouquet bursts from the glass with red berry fruit, Kalamata olives and a light swimming pool/chlorine scent. It appears to have lost none of the vigor it was presumably born with. The palate does not disappoint, with exceptional balance and a perfect line of acidity. Much more refined than expected, even compared to the 1983 alongside it, the 1967 is bestowed with fantastic precision and tension on the finish. It’s an excellent Northern Rhône that continues to give so much drinking pleasure. **96** /Drink 2024-2044.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1983 & 1967 Domaine J.L. Chave L’Hermitage

Cellar Favorite: 1983 & 1967 Domaine J.L. Chave L’Hermitage (Jan 2024)

### 1985 Ridge Vineyards Zinfandel Canyon Road & 

### 1985 

### Monte Bello

BY NEAL MARTIN | JANUARY 15, 2024

I am not familiar with Californian wines like some of my Vinous colleagues. However, during 2023, I enjoyed several mature bottles from Ridge Vineyards, which is certainly one of my favorite producers. The **1985 Zinfandel Canyon Road** appeared at a lunch in Hong Kong among a cluster of Bordeaux and Burgundy, acquitting itself well in auspicious company. Showing only slight bricking on the rim, this bottle has a warm and inviting bouquet surfeit with red plummy fruit commingling with roasted chestnut and a touch of espresso. A subtle floral scent pokes its head up after a few minutes in the glass, together with a bergamot hint. The palate is quite sweet and plush on the entry, fleshy and perhaps just missing a bit of grip and backbone on the back end. Yet, for a 38-year-old Zinfandel, this has aged commendably and will continue to sashay along for another decade. **90** /Drink 2024-2034.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1705010951667-CF_Jan152024.jpg)

The following month, this time in Pauillac, another Ridge Vineyards wine born in the same vintage turned up at dinner, again juxtaposed against some famous Bordeaux. The **1985 Monte Bello** is one gorgeous wine. The bouquet bursts from the glass with vibrant red berry fruit, light cigar smoke, wilted rose petals, and blood orange aromas that seem to gain intensity in the glass. The palate is reminiscent of the same vintage in Bordeaux insofar as it is blessed with a sensual, corpulent body that caresses the senses. Beautifully balanced, still fresh with a cashmere finish, this is nigh irresistible Monte Bello cruising at the peak of its powers. **94** /Drink 2024-2044.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1985 Ridge Vineyards Zinfandel Canyon Road & 1985 Monte Bello

Cellar Favorite: 1985 Ridge Vineyards Zinfandel Canyon Road & 1985 Monte Bello (Jan 2024)

### 1969 Bodegas Vega Sicilia Unico

BY NEAL MARTIN | JANUARY 08, 2024

Unico is Spain’s most iconic and historical wine. You don’t need me to tell you that. Though Unico has been bottled for many decades, the consensus is that the 1960s is the decade during which its reputation was really consolidated through a string of outstanding vintages bookended by the brilliant 1962 and 1970. Perhaps the reputation of the latter overshadows the **1969 Unico**. I tasted two bottles thanks to the same generous host last year. Though the photo depicts the second, that bottle was a bit “off-color,” so my tasting note derives from the first, which was poured in London in May 2023.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1704478166738-unico+1969.jpg)

It was the first time that I had tasted the **1969 Unico** , a blend of 85% Tinto Fino, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, Malbec and Albillo. There is a sense of delicacy on the nose that marks it out from the 1970. Slightly faded red fruit mixes with licorice and star anise. The 1969 coheres wonderfully in the glass and becomes more Bordeaux-like with aeration. You could almost describe the aromatics as “polite”. The palate is sweet and sensual on the entry, a beautiful Unico with subtle notes of wild mint and fennel. This is nicely structured, not a powerful wine, yet it exerts an insistent grip toward the finish, suggesting there is still petrol in the tank. I would not hesitate to crack open a bottle if you have one in your cellar. **93** /Drink 2024-2035.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1969 Bodegas Vega Sicilia Unico

Cellar Favorite: 1969 Bodegas Vega Sicilia Unico (Jan 2024)

### 2010 Château Canon

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | JANUARY 02, 2024

The **2010 Château Canon** is interesting to revisit today, especially considering the vintages that have come after it, some of which will take their place among the greatest ever made here. Somber in breeding, the 2010 shows more darkness and ripeness than the wines of today, with a stronger oak imprint, all of which serve to blur some of the definition that is such a Canon signature. From time to time, some of the finesse of Canon emerges, as do some characteristic Cabernet Franc inflections, yet the 2010 feels a bit imprisoned by the style of the era in which it was made. The bouquet and overall profile suggest that the 2010 has arrived at an early plateau of maturity. I imagine it will develop for many years to come, but I also don’t see meaningful improvement in the cards. **92** /Drink 2023-2040.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703874797136-CF_Jan022023_1.jpg)

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 2010 Château Canon

Cellar Favorite: 2010 Château Canon (Jan 2024)

### 1899, 1947 & 1970 Yquem

BY NEAL MARTIN | DECEMBER 26, 2023

This Cellar Favorite comes from a private dinner held at Château Yquem last April. In-house chef Olivier Brulard, who worked with Michel Guérard at his fabled restaurant in Eugénie-les-Bains for many years, cooked a sublime array of dishes to accompany the wines. I understand some who say that an evening devoted to Sauternes is too much. I guess it depends on the Sauternes. In fact, the first pour was the dry wine, the **2021 Y de Yquem**. This latest release has a more powerful bouquet, with a distinctive marine influence, a nuanced oxidative trait that lends freshness. The palate is, likewise, quite intense with razor-sharp acidity to the extent that I find this refreshingly penetrating in style, hints of tinned apricot and white peach filtering through on the finish. A lovely dry Sauternes. **90** /Drink 2024-2044.

The **1970 Yquem** comes from a vintage overshadowed by that year’s reds and subsequent Sauternes vintage. Lorenzo Pasquini, who took over as head winemaker from Sandrine Garbay last year, told me that this contains 102g/L residual sugar. With light greenish tints on the rim, this bottle offers enticing scents of crème brûlée, orange rind and mandarin, a dab of rose water emerging with time. The palate is fresh on the entry with Seville orange marmalade, rooibos and dried honey. It is not a complex Yquem, yet it is very commendable for the vintage. I admire how it blossoms in the glass. Bottles should be opened now and over the next decade. This is certainly the best bottle that I have encountered. **92** /Drink 2024-2040.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703272712531-Yquem+1899.jpg)

The **1947 Yquem** is a vintage that I had never tasted. This legend was bestowed with 134g/L residual sugar after that year’s infamously hot summer, a heavily-botrytised vintage that, according to estate records, was picked “in double-quick time,” September 13 to October 13, according to Michael Broadbent. This is Yquem in full flight. It has a haunting bouquet with dried honey, figs, antique bureau, star anis and Clementine, all delivered with breathtaking precision that is remarkable given how much time has passed. The palate is medium-bodied, broad-shouldered rather than fat, laden with fig and orange pith, tangerine and even suggestions of red fruit, strawberry and redcurrant. The texture is velvety rather than unctuous, gradually developing a slightly confit-like finish. This audacious Yquem has flair and panache to spare. It clearly ranks amongst the greats. **99** /2024-2047.

As depicted in the image, a **1945 Yquem** was also opened to compare to the 1947. However, this meant it was not at the optimal temperature. That notwithstanding, it was clearly not close to perfect examples that I have tasted in the past.

Finally, the **1899 Yquem**. This was a year in which the region suffered a heavy frost on May 20 when temperatures fell to -6.3° C. After this episode, the weather remained clement and dry all the way through until the end of October. The picking commenced at the end of September, with two spells of rain (20mm) provoking uniform botrytis infection, followed by three weeks of dry weather, enabling the harvest to take place in dry conditions. The fruit was apparently rich as potential sugar levels increased for 13 consecutive days. I have been privileged with several 19th-century Yquem, though never one poured directly from the château’s reserves. They can be ethereal experiences, but to be frank, this 124-year-old Yquem seems to have entered a graceful decline. I want to emphasize the word “graceful”. The 1899 is a class act whose golden days are behind it. The bouquet is a little faded with scents of linseed oil, again, an antique mahogany bureau, aniseed and grilled walnuts. Maybe just a little tertiary? It did not possess the refulgent aromatics of the 1947. The palate is clearly well balanced with a silver bead of acidity that keeps it very much alive: notes of orange rind, strawberry and dried honey, a slight oiliness towards the finish. You could quibble and say that it’s a little short, and yet there is no question it is profound, and remarkably, after 40-45 minutes, it reveals touches of Indian spice on the nose. **92** /2024-2030.

_© 2023, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Cellar Favorite: 1899, 1947 & 1970 Yquem

Cellar Favorite: 1899, 1947 & 1970 Yquem (Dec 2023)

2023 Bordeaux En Primeur

By Antonio Galloni

By Neal Martin

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### Alsace 2022 Reds: Continuing Their Trajectory

BY ANNE KREBIEHL MW | MAY 07, 2024

It turns out that wild boars have a predilection for Grenache. They devoured all of Eddy Leiber-Faller’s fruit in 2022. And yes, you are reading an Alsace report, where the chief red grape is Pinot Noir, of course. The Grenache was grafted over on a small parcel of Riesling vines in the granitic soils of the Schlossberg Grand Cru. This would have been the first fruit from these new grafts had it not been for those picky marauders (who will never eat Riesling, which is far too tart for their liking). Apparently, they have quite a weakness for Gewurztraminer, too. Who can blame them? Leiber-Faller intends to put up an electrified fence.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1715031547204-Stormy+spring+clouds+paint+a+moody+yet+vibrant+light+across+Grand+Cru+Hengst+-+one+of+the+first+grands+crus+approved+for+Pinot+Noir+in+Alsace_copy+%281%29.jpg)

_Stormy spring clouds paint a moody yet vibrant light across Grand Cru Hengst - one of the first grands crus approved for Pinot Noir in Alsace._

**The Rise and Rise of Pinot Noir**

The latest figures from the CIVA, the _Comité Interprofessionnel des Vins d'Alsace_, state that Pinot Noir now accounts for 13% of total Alsace plantings—2,011 hectares. In 2021, that figure was 1,745 hectares—11% of plantings. There is market demand for the variety; all of the region’s growers echo this. Séverine Schlumberger reports planting four further hectares of Pinot Noir in Grand Cru Saering, also deciding to grub up Riesling and Gewurztraminer in the Bollenberg. Now, the only two varieties Schlumberger grows on this limestone site are Pinot Noir and Muscat. Frédéric Hugel says: “In the past five years, we have doubled our sales of the Classic Pinot Noir.” Christian Beyer of Domaine Emile Beyer is planting more Pinot Noir in the Sundel parcel of Grand Cru Pfersigberg in Eguisheim. Antoine Sorg (of Domaine Bruno Sorg, also in Eguisheim) notes: “Each time we take out a parcel of Riesling or Gewurztraminer on the plain, we replant with Pinot Noir.” Pinot Noir ripens early and is better suited to the site than Riesling and more in demand than Gewurztraminer. Charles Sparr of Domaine Amélie & Charles Sparr in Wettolsheim believes that by the end of this decade, Pinot Noir will account for 30-40% of Alsace production.

Since Gewurztraminer also prefers richer soils compared to Riesling, it is not surprising to find Pinot Noir on such richer sites of marl, clay and limestone with more topsoil cover – but it must be noted that Pinot Noir does work on granite, too. When vinified carefully, granite-grown Pinot Noirs can have a translucent, stony, red-fruited tenderness and a more austere character than limestone- or marl-grown Pinot Noirs, which might easily blend into a line-up of Burgundies. Lovers of Pinot Noir will know that Pinot can shine on various soils – while acknowledging that heavenly marriage between this grape variety and limestone – which in Alsace can be both from the Jurassic period, as in Burgundy, or Triassic.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1715031699283-Brothers+Thomas+%28left%29+and+Jean+Daniel+%28right%29+Boeckel+in+their+tasting+room+in+Mittelbergheim_copy+%281%29.jpg)

_Brothers Thomas (left) and Jean-Daniel (right) Boeckel in their tasting room in Mittelbergheim._

**Changing Paradigms**

Many of the 2022 Pinot Noirs are uncharacteristically dark in color and show sumptuous flavors, often of black cherry. Both Melanie Pfister in Dahlenheim and Paul Fuchs in Riquewihr note that determining the harvest date was crucial to retaining freshness in Pinot Noir in 2022. I am pleased to say that, while the fruit flavors are plush and tannins ripe, I did not taste a single jammy 2022 Pinot Noir at the domaines I visited.

Given the varying release rhythms of the estates, other producers presented the 2021 vintage. Pinot Noir, with its inherent susceptibility to rot, was a challenge in this damp year plagued by mildew, and yields took a hit. Marine Claude at Kirrenbourg noted that, while she usually produces 4,000 bottles of Cuvée Mathieu, in 2021, that figure was just 1,800. The 2021s lack the opulence of the 2020s. As a function of that, Jacky Barthelmé of Domaine Albert Mann included less whole-bunch fruit in his ferments and decided not to use any new oak for his elegant and fine-boned 2021 Pinot Noirs. At Domaine Weinbach, they did not produce a 2021 Pinot Noir Jardin aux Oiseaux, but the 2021 Pinot Noir from the Furstentum Grand Cru (the first ever from the domaine) is a graceful marvel.

Two thousand twenty-one and 2022 represent polar opposites that played into the hands of some styles more than others. What is telling, though, is that most of the Pinot Noir producers I visited are in active pursuit of a new paradigm. Jean-Frédéric Hugel says, “It seems like we spent the last 30 years striving for power in Pinot Noir, and now that we have it, we crave lightness.” Mathieu Deiss believes that red wines have evolved the most at Domaine Marcel Deiss. He notes that, for many years, his father wanted to prove that Alsace was capable of making “real red wine,” meaning wines with color and extraction. “This is no longer the case, and now there is a place for elegance.” The wines prove his point.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1715031720086-The+Clos+de+la+Faille+planted+by+Domaine+Albert+Mann+above+the+Grand+Cru+Hengst+where+limestone+meets+Triassic+sandstone_copy.jpg)

_The Clos de la Faille vineyard was planted by Domaine Albert Mann above the Grand Cru Hengst where limestone meets Triassic sandstone._

**Grand Cru Vorbourg: Speak Now or Forever Hold Your Peace**

Veronique and Thomas Muré in Rouffach excitedly report that the INAO has provisionally approved Grand Cru status for Pinot Noir in Grand Cru Vorbourg. Provisional approval means that anyone can still object to this but would have to have done so by the 1st of March 2024. No objections have been received, but the news of this third grand cru approved for Pinot Noir can only be made public once the notice appears in the French government’s _Journal officiel_. When I note that this process, which started in 2011, took long enough, Muré says: “Yes, about 45 years. Veronique and I have battled for this because of the work our father did.” The Murés will be able to label their Pinot Noirs from Vorbourg and their Clos Saint Landelin as Grand Cru from the 2024 vintage onwards—a cause for celebration. This follows the Grand Crus of Hengst in Wintzenheim on marly, Triassic limestone and Kirchberg de Barr in Barr, on Jurassic limestone, which were the first to achieve this status for Pinot Noir with the 2023 vintage. The Kirchberg is still emblematic of Gewurztraminer, but 10% of its surface is now planted to Pinot Noir. Vorbourg is also on Jurassic limestone. I expect further Grand Crus will follow, but do not hold your breath. This will take decades. In the meantime, however, we will have Grand Cru-level wines in our glasses, even if the labels cannot say so.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1715031758521-Pierre+Gassmann+in+his+grand+showroom+filled+with+every+geological+formation+to+be+found+at+his+estate_copy.jpg)

_Pierre Gassmann in his grand showroom filled with every geological formation to be found at his estate._

I tasted the wines for this report during estate visits in January 2024.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

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### You Might Also Enjoy

[Alsace 2022 Whites – A Lucky Escape](https://vinous.com/articles/alsace-2022-whites-a-lucky-escape-apr-2024), Anne Krebiehl MW, April 2024

[Alsace 2020s and 2021s: Just like Janus](https://vinous.com/articles/alsace-2020s-and-2021s-just-like-janus-apr-2023), Anne Krebiehl MW, April 2023



Alsace 2022 Reds: Continuing Their Trajectory

Alsace 2022 Reds: Continuing Their Trajectory (May 2024)

### Marche Stays the Course Amidst Future Uncertainty

BY ERIC GUIDO | MAY 02, 2024

Both growth and evolution are imperative for the success and survival of any species, civilization, individuals and, of course, wine regions. Time goes by without the two of them, and trends, tastes and social scenes change, yet the wine and the people who create it remain the same. Many wine regions have fallen victim to this in the past, yet the successful ones have managed to reinvent and revitalize themselves. As it is now, Marche may be at risk of becoming the former.

Marche produces one of Italy's greatest white wines in the form of Verdicchio. It’s a wine that thrills tasters in its youth yet also has the capacity to mature and gain further complexity and depth in the bottle. It can stand shoulder to shoulder with the best of Italy and, in some cases, the best from around the world. However, I’ve witnessed a tremendous surge in competition for Verdicchio in recent years. I’ve watched Soave reemerge from the ashes, Fiano rejuvenate its reputation and Orvieto make a comeback. The popularity of Trebbiano Abruzzese has exploded. Lugana has gained in popularity, and speculation over the potential of Carricante grows with every passing day. So, where does this leave Verdicchio? Unfortunately, it makes Verdicchio a smaller fish in a bigger pond.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714661433526-Looking+out+across+the+hills+of+Verdicchio+dei+Castelli+di+Jesi+2_copy.jpg)

_Looking out across the hills of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi._

When I visit or interview winemakers to gain extra insights, I also ask about exciting new regional projects. I commonly walk away with at least a handful of new names to track down. Unfortunately, I didn’t receive any this time in Marche. Verdicchio witnessed a surge of new blood in the early 2000s, which has developed into some of today’s top names, yet little has changed since. Modern-day Marche winemakers like to discuss a new sense of place with the rise of single-vineyard wines. Most can agree that the biggest problem in the region is their own unwillingness to work together. Winemaker Tommaso Chiacchiarini Sartarelli of the Sartarelli Winery said to me, “We producers do not work as a team at all as it happens in many other successful regions, and this penalizes us a lot in the international markets and also in the national one.” Ironically, I received nearly identical quotes from several top producers, making me question why this issue can’t be resolved. I can’t remember the last time an organized Marche- or Verdicchio-themed tasting came up in my itinerary. Beyond relying on the work of publications such as Vinous, education and putting the wines in the hands of consumers are ways to push a region forward. As my interviews revealed, unity, better communication and global reach to new consumers would be a serious step in the right direction. The question is, who’s going to take the lead?

Verdicchio still represents tremendous value in the market. That stems from its ability to wear many guises. Verdicchio can be an easy-drinking, young wine treasured for its piercing acidity mixed with vividly ripe fruit. Or it can be a later-harvest or single-vineyard wine where the grapes mature slower, communicating more depth and power. Most producers will have a late-harvest (but not sweet) Riserva, often elevated by a healthy onset of noble rot. It can also produce a Metodo Classico (Champagne style) wine, where Verdicchio’s naturally high acidity shines.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714661465509-An+experimental+nursery+of+vine+maintained+by+the+Sartarelli+family_copy.jpg)

_The Sartarelli family maintains an experimental nursery of vines._

Beyond these categories, one of Verdicchio's best qualities is its ability to communicate terroir, adding further diversity. The Jesi growing zone spreads out from an outcropping of the Apennine mountains and then gently slopes down toward the Adriatic Sea. This provides growers with contrasting climate influences of Mediterranean warmth and cooling effects from the higher elevations. Meanwhile, Matelica is located on the other side of those summits, sitting in a valley with high grounds to the east and west. This geographical situation changes things significantly, giving Matelica a continental climate with elevations above 370 meters, drastic diurnal shifts and a season lasting seven to ten days longer. As a result, one can expect the wines of Jesi to possess more richness and fruit, while those from Matelica will communicate a sense of verticality and power. Both can age just as well over time, yet I find the former more appealing in its youth and provides a broader drinking window.

Verdicchio has an advantage when it comes to climate change due to its naturally late harvest. Marche has witnessed warming trends like the rest of the world, with drastic weather experienced throughout most of the year. Precipitations are becoming scarcer, particularly in the summer months; yet when they come, they come in mass, drenching the landscape and causing erosion. The soils throughout the region provide good moisture retention, yet irrigation is nearly impossible due to a lack of fresh water to pull from. Luckily, due to Verdicchio’s later ripening, the grapes can recover from the warm and dry conditions of the summer through the cooler and rainier months of September and October. It isn’t rare to find producers picking in late October or even into November. This was especially important over the last three vintages, which have been excessively warm and dry, yet the wines maintain a balance that other regions have struggled with. On the flip side, Gabriele Brugnoni, Export Manager of the Bisci winery in Matelica, had a very different perspective, explaining his feeling that global warming has so far been a benefit, as it has pushed harvests earlier, which avoids the humid periods of September and October. More than anything, this demonstrates the vast difference between the Jesi and Matelica growing areas.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714661573848-Verdicchio+on+the+vine_copy.jpg)

_Verdicchio on the vine._

**Beyond Verdicchio**

Marche is about more than just white wine. There is considerable variability in the reds. Shopping for Marche reds is more about knowing the winery to look for versus the region or classification. The Rosso Conero and the more extensive Rosso Piceno DOCs remain littered with wines that are over-stylized, over-oaked, rustic to a fault and often packaged in bottles that weigh enough to strain your wrist while pouring. That said, some fantastic producers make world-class wines within these categories, yet finding them is often a problem.

The two main red varieties in the region are Sangiovese and Montepulciano, often blended together. Both should be able to succeed here. For instance, the Rosso Piceno DOC, located on the border of Abruzzo’s Colline Teramane growing area, is a hotspot for top-level Montepulciano. Yet, we don’t find the same level of complexity and depth from the majority of producers here. The wines can often offer value, yet most are quaffable and forgettable. I’ve witnessed what the Rosso Conero DOC and Riserva DOCG can accomplish through the wines of Garofoli, Umani Ronchi and Le Terrazze. The Adriatic Sea and Conero’s clay-limestone-rich soils heavily influence the growing area, creating a location with a very distinct terroir. I would love to see more successful wines from Conero, yet beyond the producers mentioned above, few others can move the needle. If anything, the category of Marche Rosso IGT offered up some exciting reds in my recent tastings, which signals the declining importance of the Conero and Piceno DOCs.

Lacrima di Morro d'Alba remains something of an outlier. Lacrima is a unique grape that, once you taste it, can easily be recognized for its distinct floral character, with vivid violet, rose, lavender and blackberry notes. Many wineries seek to create wines made for easy drinking, which often overdeliver and can be paired with a wide selection of foods, from red to white meats and even rich fish dishes. Think of it as the Beaujolais of Marche. With that said, Lacrima can also take on a more serious persona, such as in the old-vine selections from Lucchetti.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714661524076-The+barrel+aging+room+at+the+Garofoli+winery_copy.jpg)

_Garofoli's barrel aging room._

**Water Is The New Gold**

A reality across the globe: water is becoming the new gold. Some Italian producers ask me how winemakers and vineyard managers in other areas of the world, like Washington State and Paso Robles, are tackling this crisis and how similar strategies may be applied in the years to come. In general, most of Italy’s wineries are also bound by the laws of their region, permitting watering only during times of emergency. In Marche, however, many producers do not have access to fresh water even if they could irrigate. The land lacks significant rivers or bodies of water that could provide irrigation. This made things especially difficult in a year like 2022, yet this vintage had its silver lining.

The 2022 Verdicchios are round, supple and perfumed, impressing with their opulent textures and ripe fruit and balanced by stimulating acidity. The small number of reds I have tasted are intense and fruit-forward, lacking complexity yet appearing as racy and easily palatable. The season in Jesi started mild, persisting through the winter with average rainfall, which continued through early spring, while Matelica received less precipitation and colder conditions. For producers in Matelica, this began the drought cycle that marked the vintage. Budbreak was plentiful, slightly early to on time through most of the region. In May, warm weather descended and lasted; some producers recall summer-like temperatures throughout May and June with little to zero rainfall. Vineyards at higher elevations and in Matelica benefitted from cooler nighttime temperatures, yet drought remained the more serious issue. July didn’t bring any relief, nor did most of August, up until the very end, when heavy rainstorms moved into the region. This began a cooling period throughout Marche with periodic rains through September. In most cases, harvest started a week earlier than average, and many producers reported a larger quantity than in previous years. For the later-ripening Verdicchio, the year's conditions allowed vines to recuperate partially from the warm and dry conditions, but ultimately, the vintage had left its mark.

I find more balance in the entry-level 2022s than I did from the 2021s last year. That said, during this report, I tasted several of the more important and single-vineyard 2021s that display lovely harmony. Both are excessively warm and dry vintages, yet in 2021, relief didn’t come until the middle of September, making it easier on producers who purposely pick later in the season.

The wines for this article were tasted throughout February and March of 2024 in our offices in New York City.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Both Sides of the Spectrum](https://vinous.com/articles/friuli-venezia-giulia-both-sides-of-the-spectrum-apr-2024), Eric Guido, April 2024

[Trentino-Alto Adige: Pushing the Limits](https://vinous.com/articles/trentino-alto-adige-pushing-the-limits-mar-2024), Eric Guido, March 2024

[The Unrealized Potential of Marche](https://vinous.com/articles/the-unrealized-potential-of-marche-nov-2022), Eric Guido, November 2022

[Italy’s Ace in the Hole: Marche](https://vinous.com/articles/italy-s-ace-in-the-hole-marche-oct-2021), Eric Guido, October 2021



Marche Stays the Course Amidst Future Uncertainty

Marche Stays the Course Amidst Future Uncertainty (May 2024)

### Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Both Sides of the Spectrum

BY ERIC GUIDO | APRIL 25, 2024

Whenever I return to Friuli-Venezia Giulia, a wave of calm immediately sweeps over me. Something about this region and its producers puts me at ease, whether it’s the food, the wine, the people or the architecture. Everyone moves at a steady pace with purpose and pride. Cultures combine between Italian, Austrian and Eastern European in a way that creates a society that holds their heads high, confident and sincere, yet warm and welcoming. This doesn’t quite feel like Italy, especially walking the streets of Gorizia or Trieste. With that in mind, I suppose it makes sense that the wines, just like the cuisine, vary significantly from what consumers might expect.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713990165018-Hillside+Collio+vineyards+overlooking+the+town+of+Cormons_copy.jpg)

_Hillside Collio vineyards overlooking the town of Cormòns._

**The Friulian Conundrum**

The past success of Friuli-Venezia Giulia (which I will refer to as FVG going forward) was built on the acclaim the region received many years ago for wines made in a highly international style. The Super Whites and Reds of the region were a massive success in the American market. I recall many rich and stylized Chardonnays and Bordeaux blends from the area that were undoubtedly well-made yet lacked regional character or flair. Some producers, such as Borgo del Tiglio, were able to achieve a perfect blending of both, taking indigenous and international varieties that showed a distinct stamp of terroir. But in the end, the majority of these wines could have come from anywhere in the world.

Over time, fads changed, as did consumer palates, and in many cases, along with generational shifts, the wines of FVG changed with them. With the exception of a few stalwarts, when visiting the area today, I find it hard to believe that the region ever preferred this high-impact, international style. Yes, it has left its mark, and I often come across heavily oak-inflected blends with a sheen of new wood that can act like human catnip if properly applied. Yet, beneath the surface, these wines lack depth and complexity. The Friulians' preferred style appeals to their palates and the palates of local tourists who regularly travel down from Austria and Germany. Whether blended or mono-varietal, it’s a style that focuses more on indigenous grapes and a combination of stern minerality, acidity and a small dose of residual sugar. This mix throws off many international palates yet has secured export markets to the north and in Asia.

Most forward-thinking and world-traveling producers realize this is different from current market trends in the West. Instead, FVG producers gear their practices toward the styles of modern-day Burgundy. So, when tasting in FVG, I find a great divide between one portfolio and another. Making it so that when buying a bottle of wine from Friuli, a consumer must now look to the producer before the region itself. This creates confusion over what the world can expect from Friuli and what Friuli can provide to the world.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713990186834-Limestone+infused+with+iron-rich+clay+in+Carso-copy.jpg)

_Limestone infused with iron-rich clay in Carso._

That said, FVG winemakers and industry leaders care significantly about what the outside world thinks of the region and its wines. The most common question I receive while visiting relates to blends versus mono-varietal wines, such as the iconic Collio Bianco and how international markets perceive them. A traditional Collio Bianco blends Malvasia Istriana, Friulano and Ribolla Gialla. Yet, it can also include Chardonnay, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Sauvignon and Müller Thurgau. I see this expanded list of varieties as part of the bigger problem. If the blending rules of this category were more strict, Collio Bianco might be able to stand out and become a brand for the region. I’ve witnessed how incredible a traditional Collio Bianco can be in the right hands. The Edi Keber Vino da Uve Autoctone is a perfect example and a polarizing wine throughout the region. Many winemakers and Sommeliers question the bold move that Kristian Keber made when he decided to stop bottling mono-varietal wines and focus entirely on an indigenous blend. However, the wine has shown many others what is possible from the category over time.

This calls to mind the biggest hurdle FVG must still overcome: the massive amount of forgettable mono-varietal wines bottled throughout the region. I’ve gone into great depth on this topic in the past, and it remains an issue in FVG. I’m not saying there isn’t a place for them, but a sharper focus on making the best wines possible, not the most wines possible, would help push the region's perception of quality to all new levels. Look at the iconic wineries of FVG, the names we talk about year after year, and what you find in their portfolio is a short list of varieties they excel with. If you were to visit FVG and stop at the most important estates, the insights you would leave with would be distorted regarding the overall reality of the region. Estates like Vie di Romans, Miani, Borgo del Tiglio, Ronco del Gnemiz, Russiz Superiore, Venica & Venica and Meroi all create incredible wines using varieties like Chardonnay and Sauvignon. However, they are the outliers in a region littered with forgettable Chardonnays and weedy, one-dimensional Sauvignons. I encountered a similar issue when traveling to Slovenia, just across the border, where Chardonnay is the second most planted white variety.

While confusing to the average consumer, the good news, and what FVG does have going for it, is variety. However, as mentioned previously, the trick is that you must look to the producer before the region. I can not recommend Ribolla Gialla as the best interpretation of Friuli, nor can I recommend Friulano, Malvasia, Merlot, Refosco dal Peduncolo or Schioppettino. However, I can easily recommend the best interpretations of each of these varieties after tasting around 400 wines each year. I also assure readers that there are experiences from each that are genuinely noteworthy or even remarkable. A mature Ronchi di Cialla Schioppettino can be mind-blowing. A Malvasia from I Clivi can force you to fall in love with the variety, while the Gris from Lis Neris can totally change preconceptions about what Pinot Grigio can offer. I could go on and on, but in the end, it’s all in the tasting notes.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713990210037-Sunrise+over+the+twon+of+Gorizia+looking+out+toward+Slovenia_copy.jpg)

_Sunrise over the town of Gorizia, looking out toward Slovenia._

Speaking of variety, I would be remiss to leave out the skin-contact wines of the region. Having spent so much time discussing the confusion of styles and varieties, FVG excels in this category. For anyone just joining the conversation, Skin-Contact is the branding that producers are working very hard to replace the phrase “Orange Wine” with. “Orange” has become a dirty word within winemaking circles as producers try to separate themselves from the natty and often faulty wines that soured worldwide opinions of the style. Globally, the category is still fraught with wines that many consumers wouldn’t appreciate, yet in Friuli, both quality and purity are remarkably high, especially along the border of Slovenia, in the regions of Carso and Oslavia, but also throughout Collio, Colli Orientali and Isonzo. While Carso and Oslavia heavily focus on using extended skin contact with a mix of indigenous varieties, outside of these areas, many producers create Pinot Grigios and Ribolla Giallas using a shorter maceration on the skins to add depth, color and texture.

Last year, Sasa Radikon of the Radikon Winery in Oslavia discussed the ongoing work to integrate the Skin-Contact wine category into the Collio DOC. However, he sadly explained this year that their efforts were in vain due to issues with creating production regulations or settling on how to name the category for consumers. This was unsettling news and a step back. Considering that Carso and Oslavia are producing some of the most interesting non-conventional wines in FVG, this is a missed opportunity for the region as a whole.

However, in Carso, producers seem unphased by being detached from FVGs and other winemaking regions. This shouldn’t come as a surprise, as Carso is geographically separated as well, jutting out from the most southeastern corner of the region like a long shelf that runs along the border of Slovenia to the north and the Adriatic Sea to the south. Just as Friuli doesn’t seem entirely Italian, Carso is like a world in itself, and its wines are just as unrelatable. The Ponca soils (sandstone and clay) of Friuli’s interior turn to solid limestone infused with thick iron-rich clay. Most varieties are the same, yet the wines are produced primarily using extended skin contact and aging in large stone vessels made from the same limestone that defines the area. One outlier is the crisp and mineral-intense Vitovska, which excels here and across Slovenia's border, yet seemingly nowhere else. For red wine lovers, Carso also specializes in Terrano, which is a woodsy, high-acid variety related to Refosco from Croatia. Each year, I spend just one day in Carso tasting with producers, and I’d be lying if I claimed that it wasn’t one of my favorite days of the year. Make sure to check out the portfolios of Zidarich, Skerlj, Skerk, Vinogradi Fon and Vodopivec in no specific order. It’s hard to go wrong here.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713990238654-Tasting+at+the+famed+Enoteca+di+Cormons_copy.jpg)

_Tasting at the famed Enoteca di Cormòns._

**Looking Forward to 2022 and Back to 2021**

Continuing a succession of warm and dry seasons, the 2021s and 2022s in Friuli-Venezia Giulia still have much to offer. While most Italian regions have recently suffered through severe droughts, it's essential to recognize that Friuli’s climate is significantly different, with a higher overall average of precipitation yearly. With that said, the region is now starting to feel the effect of drought, and with it, the need for irrigation continues to be a hot topic in the region. It will be interesting to compare 2021 and 2022 over the coming years. Generally, the 2021s are richer and more powerful, while the 2022s are more harmonious, complex and light on their feet.

Lifted, floral, soft-textured and ethereal are all words that can sum up the 2022s from Friuli-Venezia Giulia. These open-knit and pretty wines trade power for grace and present up-front appeal. The season's warmth was more tolerable than in 2021, without any extreme heat spikes, yet drought through the summer months seriously stressed the vines and affected the younger vineyards. Irrigation was often necessary where available. Harvests were pushed forward from one to two weeks throughout the region without the intense sugar accumulation in 2021.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713990308513-The+Reds+of+the+Region+are+Truly+Wild+Wines_copy.jpg)

From a vintage of extremes, the 2021s are often intense and rich with lively acidity that brings balance. Soaring aromatics and vivid fruit add to the warm vintage character of these wines. Two thousand twenty-one was a dry and warm year. Spring frost reduced yields by 7% on average, yet some areas, such as the Carso, suffered significantly more. The region dried out through June and July, coupled with exceedingly warm temperatures. August continued with hot conditions and remained very dry. The saving grace was the substantial diurnal shifts that helped retain acidity in the grapes and the ventilating winds that kept the bunches healthy. Christian Patat of Ronco del Gnemiz recalled waiting for the perfect time to pick and offered that many producers were forced to take action when sugar levels drastically increased. In the end, the 2021s excel with their tangy acidity.

For a detailed explanation of the geography and soils and a deep dive into the varieties of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, check out last year's article, [Pride and Tradition: The Friulian Way](https://vinous.com/articles/pride-and-tradition-the-friulian-way-apr-2023).

I tasted the wines in this article while in Friuli-Venezia Giulia in December 2023 and our New York City offices in January 2024.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Pride and Tradition: The Friulian Way](https://vinous.com/articles/pride-and-tradition-the-friulian-way-apr-2023), Eric Guido, April 2023

[Veneto: The Land of Opportunity](https://vinous.com/articles/veneto-the-land-of-opportunity-mar-2023), Eric Guido, March 2023

[Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Just Try to Keep Up](https://vinous.com/articles/friuli-venezia-giulia-just-try-to-keep-up-apr-2022), Eric Guido, April 2022

[Friuli Venezia Giulia – In Constant Motion](https://vinous.com/articles/friuli-venezia-giulia-in-constant-motion-jan-2021), Eric Guido, January 2021



Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Both Sides of the Spectrum

Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Both Sides of the Spectrum (Apr 2024)

### Oldies But Goldies: Bouchard Père 1892-2012

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 24, 2024

“Oldies but goldies” is a term commonly used in music vernacular. It is a sepia-tinged song from bygone days that retains its virtues and never grows old. Of course, the phrase means different things to different people depending on their age. _Runaway_ by Del Shannon or _Louie Louie_ by The Kingsmen fit the description for this writer. You’ll have yours. When it comes to wine, the term brings to mind bottles with decent mileage, not necessarily from the most prestigious vineyards or growers, nor the apotheosis of fermented grape juice. Yet, these wines warm the cockles of the heart and stand the test of time. What exactly confers longevity? Received wisdom is that it’s predicated by the most auspicious vineyards and/or winemakers, but experience confirms time and again that one factor overrides all others: provenance.

Provenance determines the end of a bottle’s mortal coil.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713890355980-bouchard+bottle+line+up+%281%29.JPG)

_Notice the tell-tale, blue-tinged bottle of 1942, when glass was hard to come by and bottlers used whatever they could find._

A certain baker’s dozen poured one Friday night in November 2023 was of impeccable provenance since none had ever moved from the bins of Bouchard Père & Fils. They lay in their bins, oblivious to the tumultuous events of the last century, maturing out of sight in the damp and dark, wondering when, if ever, their martyrdom would come. A pre-prandial tour of the labyrinthine library cellar at Bouchard’s headquarters in Beaune confirmed that.

Among the particulars of the purchase through which Groupe Artémis added the Burgundy stalwart to a portfolio that includes Château Latour, Clos de Tart, Jacquesson, Eisele Vineyard and others is an almost priceless treasure trove of historic vintages stretching back to the 19th century. Bottles lay in their bins, oblivious to the tumultuous events of the last century, maturing out of sight in the damp and dark, wondering when, if ever, their martyrdom would come. Around a dozen English and French writers were invited for a dinner themed around vintages ending in two since it coincided without the 2022 barrel tastings. To my memory, it represented the first time I had broached several mature vintages from Bouchard Père together.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713965895977-bouchard+beaune+1972.jpg)

_Not a well-known vintage, this 1972 Beaune acquitted itself well._

Readers will know that I always take a sober view of even the rarest or oldest wines, which is reflected in my notes and scores and, as always, I approached these wines with a blank sheet. With this in mind, I was deeply impressed by the quality throughout these wines that spanned 120 years. Yes, provenance must be taken into consideration. Yet the consistency was above my expectations, given the numerical straitjacket of vintages ending in the same digit, more intellectually stimulating than a beauty pageant of the most lauded growing seasons or auspicious vineyards. Only towards the end did quality trail off in perfectly acceptable fashion: the **1942 Beaune Les Teurons**  **1er Cru** might have spent too long in barrel, often unavoidable for demob-happy bottles that struggled to sell in a weak post-war wine market. The **1892 Beaune-Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus** is, of course, a privilege to taste since 19th century, pre-phylloxera Burgundy does not come around often. I feel that this is propped up more by provenance than intrinsic quality, even though undeniably, it deserves hearty applause for not just being drinkable but dispensing pleasure after more than twelve decades.

If there was one takeaway from this dinner, it was how we continue to undervalue the wines from the Beaune appellation.

The **1962 Beaune Clos de la Mousse 1er Cru** and **1962 Beaune-Grèves Vigne de l’Enfant Jésus** are utterly joyful, convincing me even more that this was a great vintage in the Côte d’Or ([see my article on the 1962s](https://vinous.com/articles/the-quiet-one-1962-burgundy-bordeaux-dec-2023)). They might be pensioners, yet they are still going strong and improve in the glass. The only weak link is the magnum of **1962 Le Corton** , though I suspect there are better bottles out there. The septet of whites is very consistent, bookended by highlights, the stunning **2012 Montrachet Grand Cru** and my pick of the night, the delectable and quite profound **1952 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru** that shows the 1962 how it's done. Drinking these wines, I rue how premature oxidation has harmed the reputation of white Burgundy and lost legions of out-of-pocket wine lovers because when firing on all cylinders, nothing can touch it.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713890397058-bouchard+corton+charlemagne+1952.JPG)

_This 1952 Corton-Charlemagne was my own highlight from the evening’s vinous entertainment._

Readers can expect a tranche of more mature Burgundy, including more from Bouchard Père in the future. These deserved a standalone article because of their provenance and temporal connection. These bottles had been “oldies but goldies” and had met the prerequisites of warming the cockles of the heart and, for the most part, standing the test of time. They all captured a sense of a bygone era and had lost none of their charm. As I departed, I considered suggesting to Frédéric Engerer that they should repeat the exercise next year. Bottles themed along vintages ending in three? It would be impudent to ask. Instead, I thanked him for inviting yours truly to this enlightening soirée and trotted back to my rented apartment. In case he is reading this, my diary _is_ clear next November.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

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[Merci, Monsieur Amiot: Clos des Lambrays 1923-2021](https://vinous.com/articles/merci-monsieur-amiot-clos-des-lambrays-1923-2021-mar-2024), Neal Martin, March 2024

[Nature Rules/Nature’s Rules: DRC 2021 In Bottle](https://vinous.com/articles/nature-rules-nature-s-rules-drc-2021-in-bottle-feb-2024), Neal Martin, February 2024

[Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022](https://vinous.com/articles/now-for-my-latest-trick-burgundy-2022-jan-2024), Neal Martin, January 2024

[The Quiet One: 1962 Burgundy & Bordeaux](https://vinous.com/articles/the-quiet-one-1962-burgundy-bordeaux-dec-2023), Neal Martin, December 2023



Oldies But Goldies: Bouchard Père 1892-2012

Oldies But Goldies: Bouchard Père 1892-2012 (Apr 2024)

But Seriously: Beaujolais 2021-2023

But Seriously: Beaujolais 2021-2023 (Apr 2024)

The Many Riojas of Rioja: A Tale of Forking Paths

The Many Riojas of Rioja: A Tale of Forking Paths (Apr 2024)

### Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982
 

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 17, 2024

For those who enjoy my voluble prose, apologies, but I am keeping this account of last September’s retrospective of Lafite-Rothschild relatively brief. That has nothing to do with the grandeur of the subject in question, nor should you infer that it is a measure of my appreciation for this First Growth. It is simply because I composed [a lengthy piece](https://vinous.com/articles/looking-back-to-go-forward-lafite-rothschild-1868-2015-jul-2018) six years ago on numerous vintages back to 1868, the year when the Rothschild family picked up the front door keys to the château. Now, _this_ vertical doesn’t travel so far back in time, though it only falls six vintages short.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713361211248-lafite+bottle+line+up+%281%29.JPG)

The same group of wine lovers undertook parallel Latour and Lafite-Rothschild verticals on my previous visit to Hong Kong in 2018. On that occasion, Latour made a much greater impression, and I recall some attendees unconvinced by the reverence afforded towards Lafite-Rothschild. I empathized with their opinion, even if it was not one I shared. To quote the indefatigable David Peppercorn in his _Bordeaux_ tome, apropos Lafite, he writes: “Its successful and great years were not so frequent until after 1975 as were those of Latour, and its lesser years tended to be exquisitely pretty but decidedly small wines.” Added to this, some vintages, even great ones like the 1953, were bottled over a period of months, hence greater bottle variation _vis-à-vis_ its peers. Given this backdrop, the group’s expectations leading into this dinner were modest. A friend leaned over just before the first was poured and confessed that Lafite-Rothschild was not his bag. He was here out of curiosity more than anything. After the tasting concluded, I asked whether his opinion had been altered.

He smiled and said: “Now I get it.”

You could argue that forming an opinion on a château based on century-old bottles is absurd, like buying a house based on a Victorian survey report. How can these wines be germane to the present day? I would argue that Lafite-Rothschild has remained stylistically consistent throughout its history, a paragon of finesse and understatement whatever the season’s vagaries. It never shouts or stomps its feet, demanding attention. It abhors ostentation. Lafite-Rothschild is never going to blitz your olfactory senses. Instead, it politely asks you to let it open, like a daisy on the first warm spring morning, which might explain why some more impatient Bordeaux lovers overlook its delights as being too hasty to cast judgment. Perhaps it’s out of sync in a world enamored by glitz, a world where wines are predesigned to seduce as soon as their umbilical is cut. Its deceptive lack of structure _vis-à-vis_ Latour and lack of pizzazz _vis-à-vis_ Mouton cause some to doubt its longevity. However, in my experience, concentration and power are not prerequisites for wine to transcend time. And Lafite does it with unequaled panache.

Broaching bottles chronologically, everybody eagerly looked forward to the **1870 Lafite-Rothschild**. A couple of attendees reminded me that I once bestowed a perfect score for this ancient wine (not that I need reminding – such bottles are indelibly imprinted in one’s vinous memory). Despite sound provenance, this bottle belonged to the morgue and rapidly oxidized in the glass. You could almost hear the groans from the audience, but you have to take these things on the chin, say a silent prayer and move on to the next wine.

This happened to be the **1874 Lafite-Rothschild**. The doyen of wine writers, André Simon, rated this wine second only to Haut-Brion that vintage. Estate manager at the time, Émile Goudal, described it as a “large volume, high quality” vintage, a total of 224 tonneaux produced, a large slice bought by English merchants. As readers of _The Complete Bordeaux Vintage Guide_ might have noticed, this is a vintage that I have never drunk before. It could only happen in Hong Kong, but 24 hours earlier, this same wine, from a completely different source, had been served blind as a last-minute addition. Alas, it was oxidized and volatile, intriguing despite its blatant faults. With this bottle fresh in my mind, I forewarned attendees not to raise expectations too high the following night. Blow me down; this second bottle, from a Bristol merchant’s sale in 2016, was ethereal. Aromatics floated from the glass and tickled you under the chin. It mesmerized its audience, the palate exuding Burgundian transparency.

As the saying goes: Only great bottles, never great wines.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713361233598-lafite+1922+bottle.JPG)

That bottle was an augury for three inter-war vintages. None of these vintages are particularly renowned or rarely seen; many were consumed long before the more revered 1928 and 1929s. Peppercorn writes that this period was not a fecund one for Lafite-Rothschild. The 1919 vintage, hampered by an inclement July, produced light and acidic wine. Nevertheless, prices leaped due to the end of the Great War and increased demand. The 1922 growing season was overcast resulting in a late harvest, traduced by one Bordeaux merchant as “washed out wines with neither vice nor virtue.” No mincing words there. Meanwhile, 1926 witnessed widespread coulure and an extremely tardy picking that began on October 4. Given this context, you would expect the bottles to be past their mortal coils. On the contrary, to my own surprise, the **1919, 1922** and **1926 Lafite-Rothschild** (at least the second bottle) were stylish, refined and articulated their respective vintages with utmost precision. They altered opinions in the room on that night in Hong Kong as if a veil of mystery was finally lifted. You could not argue against these wines’ longevity and ineffable complexity. Some might justifiably argue that we were broaching them long past their peaks, yet nobody could deny they give sensory pleasure, not just survivors but wines revealing in their dotage.

Alas, we hit choppy waters once again. The 1945 was oxidized, and the 1953 was muted and dull—nothing like what should have been one of the greatest wines of the 20th century. Indeed, my hit rate with the 1953 Lafite-Rothschild is extremely low—four duff bottles out of five.

Better in this flight was the **1952 Lafite-Rothschild** , a “useful” vintage with a propensity to exceed expectations since the feted 1953s immediately eclipsed them. The 1952 vintage was hampered by a cold September that estate manager Jean Mermillod suggested would have been too concentrated had it not rained and diluted the juice. It epitomizes the spectral beauty of Lafite-Rothschild: floral on the nose and less brutish and austere than some of its Médoc peers. Bottles with sound provenance are worth hunting down. The bottle of **1961 Lafite-Rothschild** was poured at a different event the following week, an epic, mature claret dinner at the _Hong Kong Golf Club_, which will be written up in due course. This year saw the estate host the Fête de la Fleur, though it was, in fact, a rather challenging year that witnessed a late spring frost and diminished yields. This resulted in a very concentrated wine that was 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. I am not alone in suggesting that Lafite-Rothschild has never been the strongest First Growth in this auspicious year. It certainly lags behind Latour, Mouton-Rothschild and Haut-Brion, and indeed, the imperious 1959 Lafite-Rothschild. However, this bottle acquitted itself supremely well and performed even better than a bottle served at the château. It doesn’t possess the concentration and depth of the finest 1961s, yet this was more cohesive and showed more grip than previous examples, hence my higher score.

We finished with a fine-boned **1966 Lafite-Rothschild** , even if it was not the best bottle that I have ever drunk. The dark horse and a turn-up for the books was the **1970 Lafite-Rothschild**. The season witnessed a torridly hot July but a cool September, though fortunately, clement conditions returned on the eve of picking that commenced October 2. This was a reliable vintage two decades ago when I drank 1970s Claret regularly, though I found that even some of the most reputed wines are beginning to dry out. This was easily the best bottle that I have encountered, endowed with more expressive aromatics and a beguilingly sweet core of fruit, tender but reassuringly long.

The most recent bottle seemed to be cut from a completely different cloth from those that preceded it. While the ones mentioned thus far hail from a bygone age, the **1982 Lafite-Rothschild** comes from what could be described as the beginning of the estate’s modern era. This came from the sale of Tour d’Argent’s legendary cellar in Paris, ergo, perfect provenance. Magnificent from start to finish, though I would be inclined to give it longer in the cellar if you can resist temptation.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713361256976-lafite+corks.JPG)

**Final Thoughts**

This had been yet another marvelous evening of exceptional wines. Given their antiquity, there was always a risk that dinner could have fallen flat on its face, and we were not spared misfiring bottles such as 1870, 1945 and 1953. Fortunately, these were compensated by other vintages from less renowned growing seasons where provenance played a key role. They epitomize Lafite-Rothschild and entranced those that hitherto had less appreciation for the First Growth. That trio from 1919 to 1926 formed the heart of the tasting, each one confounding expectations, while the 1874 was a time-defying Claret that, at 149 years old, still has a glint in its eye. Even though the vertical had hopped, skipped and jumped through decades, it was easy to find a common stylistic thread, even to their most recent vintages. It is pretty profound to consider drawing a line straight through all these wines to the present day, wines that fold time so that the past becomes now.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

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[An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018](https://vinous.com/articles/an-exploration-of-time-gruaud-larose-1831-2018-mar-2024), Neal Martin, March 2024

[Merci, Monsieur Amiot: Clos des Lambrays 1923-2021](https://vinous.com/articles/merci-monsieur-amiot-clos-des-lambrays-1923-2021-mar-2024), Neal Martin, March 2024

[Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On](https://vinous.com/articles/test-of-endurance-bordeaux-2014-ten-years-on-mar-2024), Neal Martin, March 2024

[Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868–2015](https://vinous.com/articles/looking-back-to-go-forward-lafite-rothschild-1868-2015-jul-2018), Neal Martin, July 2018



Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982

Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982 (Apr 2024)

### 2019 Château Montus and Bouscassé: A Premiere Glance

BY NICOLAS GREINACHER | APRIL 16, 2024

Tasting the latest releases from Château Montus and Bouscassé felt like reconnecting with a forgotten era. Both wines originate from the Madiran AOC in Southwest France, a region nestled roughly two hours away from Bordeaux by car. This secluded area faces the Pyrénées Mountain range, which acts as a natural border between France and Spain and lies about 80 kilometers (50 miles) from the Atlantic Ocean. I recalled that Tannat was the predominant grape variety in this region, renowned for producing deeply colored reds with robust tannic profiles. Antoine Veiry is the new winemaker and soon-to-be owner of both estates. Veiry inquired about my last tasting experience with these wines. After some thought, I remembered I had indeed encountered Château Montus approximately 15 years prior, but since then, there has been an undeniable hiatus.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713274530135-Ch%C3%A2teau+Montus+viewed+from+above._copy.jpg)

_Château Montus viewed from above._

But let's begin from the start. Alain Brumont, Antoine Veiry’s stepfather, played a pivotal role in establishing both estates as prominent figures in the world of French wine over 40 years ago. In 1979, Brumont inherited Château Bouscassé, his father's 17-hectare vineyard. Just a year later, he acquired Château Montus, conveniently located just 15 minutes away. Nineteen eighty-five marked the debut of Montus Prestige, the inaugural Madiran crafted solely from Tannat and meticulously aged in new oak barrels - a deliberate effort to tame the intense tannins of the variety. Veiry, now 30 years old, entered the scene in 2003 alongside his mother, Laurence. "At nine years old, I never imagined working in a vineyard. It wasn't a passion of mine. I hail from my mother's side, a family of farmers, but not specifically grape growers or winemakers. Alain Brumont instilled in me this love for vines. And then, this fascination with wine, which became a revelation for me," Veiry reminisces.

When Veiry was around 14 years old, he began working in both vineyards and cellars. As years passed, he embarked on internships in prestigious wineries, collaborating with luminaries such as Anselme Selosse (Champagne Jacques Selosse), Hervé Bizeul (Domaine du Clos des Fées) and Guillaume Pouthier (Château Les Carmes Haut Brion), among others. Veiry returned to Château Bouscassé and Montus full-time in the summer of 2018. Today, he oversees both viticulture and winemaking, while 78-year-old Alain Brumont remains involved in a supportive role. I was eager to sample the 2019 vintage releases representing the wineries' most recent offerings.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713274554934-30-year-old+Antoine+Veiry+is+the+new+sheriff+in+town+at+Ch%C3%A2teau+Montus+and+Bouscass%C3%A9._copy.jpg)

_Thirty-year-old Antoine Veiry is the new sheriff in town at Château Montus and Bouscassé._

**The 2019 Growing Season**

A mild and relatively dry spring heralded an early onset of the growing season. "Despite the early kick-off we experienced towards the end of March and the beginning of April, the dryness of the spring didn't lead to marked vegetative growth. This allowed us to execute all the necessary tasks across our vineyards as planned. We pay particular attention to grape counting, given that Tannat is a variety known for its large clusters and high yields. Hence, having a wider time frame enables us to sort, adjust and tally the bunches we intend to keep for each vine. In 2019, the vintage allowed us to manage the volume of harvest per vine precisely," Veiry explains. Although June and July brought dry and hot conditions, there was no impediment to ripening. August then brought a welcomed change, with 15 days of rainfall.

September saw temperatures dropping with very cool nights, which proved beneficial in preserving acidity. Alongside Tannat, Madiran’s primary grape variety, Veiry also tends to significant proportions of Cabernet Franc, with a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon. "Cabernet Franc is a variety I grew particularly fond of during my time at Château Les Carmes Haut Brion. It complements Tannat wonderfully, and since both varieties ripen simultaneously, they can be harvested almost concurrently," Veiry elucidates. Grapes from Château Bouscassé, with its clay and limestone-rich soils, are typically harvested around 10 to 12 days before those from Château Montus, which thrive in pebble and clay soils. All harvesting, whether for black or white varieties, is done manually.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713274579467-Since+the+2017+vintage%2C+all+reds+spend+more+time+in+large+_foudres_+than+they+do+in+barriques._copy.jpg)

_Since the 2017 vintage, all reds spend more time in large foudres than they do in barriques._

**Winds of Change**

Since Veiry's arrival in 2018, vinification processes at both Château Bouscassé and Montus have undergone significant adjustments. Focusing on red wines, fermentation temperatures have generally been lowered, now ranging between 22 to 26 degrees Celsius (71.6 - 78.8°F). Before fermentation, grapes undergo cold soaking for two to five days, with the skins remaining in contact with the juice for up to 45 days post-fermentation. Punch-downs are now a thing of the past, and pump-overs, if used at all, have become rare occurrences. Thus, while extraction is still performed, it's approached with much gentler techniques compared to previous methods.

Oak management has also significantly changed. Previously, the red wines of Château Bouscassé spent 18 to 24 months in barrique. The new regime, however, involves only 12 months in barriques, followed by an additional 24 months in 80-hectolitre _foudres_. A similar adjustment has been made at Château Montus, with perhaps the most notable adjustment affecting the XL. Previously, this wine spent 40 months in new oak barriques. Since the shift, it undergoes just one year in new oak barriques followed by 36 to 48 months in the larger _foudres_. For further details, readers may consult the accompanying tasting notes, which include information on new oak ratios.

In order to lower the oxidation rate, Veiry modified the sizes and cooperages of barrels. "Previously, oak imparted a pronounced sweetness to our wines, in addition to softening the tannins, of course. Nowadays, I aim for barrels to contribute to smoothing tannins solely. We use thicker staves, going from 22mm to 27mm, which promotes a more reductive approach. Additionally, we've expanded our horizons beyond France. Austrian oak now accounts for over 50% of our total, with the remainder sourced from France and Italy," Veiry explains. Veiry confirms that micro-oxygenation is not employed here, despite being a common winemaking practice in Madiran to help soften Tannat's tannins.

All wines undergo additional bottle aging before being released, which is why the 2019 vintage is the latest to hit the markets. This marks the final stage of preparing the wines to suit consumers' palates, eliminating the necessity for lengthy cellaring before uncorking. Sixty percent of the wines are sold internationally, with Canada, Japan, Korea and Sweden being the largest export markets. When asked about Canada, Veiry smiled and explained, "Alain Brumont doesn’t speak English. That’s why he first went to French-speaking Canada in the 1980s, where he could market the wines in his own language. So, to this day, Canada remains our largest export market."

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713274609509-madiran+bottle+shot+cover.jpg)

_Examining the new releases of Château Bouscassé and Montus._

**Tasting the Wines**

Tasting the complete range of reds from Château Bouscassé and Montus side by side dispels any preconceived notions about Tannat being solely deep, dark, concentrated and intensely tannic. Veiry has evidently put in the effort and crafted wines that are refined, expressive and flavorful. Showcasing mainly black fruits with ferrous undertones and varying degrees of aromatic oak influence, these wines embrace the characteristics of the Tannat grape while skilfully balancing its inherent traits.

I'm genuinely intrigued by what the future holds here. With the promising array of wines Veiry has produced in the 2019 vintage, coupled with his youthfulness at just 30 years of age, the future seems bright. He appears adept at identifying key areas for improvement and is unafraid to implement necessary changes. And let's not overlook the performance of the white wines I sampled during this tasting. The aromatic and lively Château Montus Blanc Sec, made entirely of Petit Courbu - an old Basque variety - comes highly recommended.

I tasted all the wines in April 2024 in my Zurich office.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Northern Rhône: Where Diversity Ignites the Senses](https://vinous.com/articles/northern-rhone-where-diversity-ignites-the-senses-mar-2024), Nicolas Greinacher, March 2024

[Gigondas: The Southern Rhône Jewel Shines and Adapts](https://vinous.com/articles/gigondas-the-southern-rhone-jewel-shines-and-adapts-jan-2024), Nicolas Greinacher, January 2024

[Vacqueyras New Releases: Walking the Underdog](https://vinous.com/articles/vacqueyras-new-releases-walking-the-underdog-nov-2023), Nicolas Greinacher, November 2023

[Châteauneuf-du-Pape New Releases: Welcome to the Pleasuredome](https://vinous.com/articles/chateauneuf-du-pape-new-releases-welcome-to-the-pleasuredome-jun-2023), Nicolas Greinacher, June 2023



2019 Château Montus and Bouscassé: A Premiere Glance

2019 Château Montus and Bouscassé: A Premiere Glance (Apr 2024)

### 2023 New Zealand Whites: The Cyclone Vintage

BY REBECCA GIBB MW | APRIL 12, 2024

It was not the cover shoot of dreams, nor was it the image the editor thought they’d be publishing in the post-harvest issue of the local wine industry magazine. However, the _New Zealand_ _Winegrower_ could not ignore Cyclone Gabrielle’s impact on the wine community and its vineyards. Philip Barber of Petane Wines stood in his shorts and Wellington boots, a thick layer of silt, sludge and debris covering what had been his flourishing Hawke’s Bay vineyard and home a few days earlier.

Cyclone Gabrielle made landfall on New Zealand’s North Island on February 12, 2023. Authorities declared the storm that followed over the next four days the worst storm since Cyclone Bola in 1988. Huge swells battered the coast, numerous landslides occurred, and river silts buried some homes and vineyards. In Hawke’s Bay, people climbed onto rooftops in fear for their lives because of widespread flooding. Forced evacuations, bridge collapses and power outages left winegrowers and friends unaccounted for over several days.

South Island producers appeared to be suffering from survivor's guilt, which was not the headline the wine community had been hoping for. While their friends feared for their lives and livelihoods, the South Island had a comparative drizzle. The Marlborough region recorded average rainfall in February, although in the more exposed Awatere sub-region, it was twice the average of the Wairau Valley.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712861160529-NZ+Whites_vineyard.jpg)

_Sauvignon Blanc dominates the Marlborough landscape, where ambitious producers are looking to emphasize texture rather than aromatics._

A white wine vintage report on New Zealand inevitably focuses on Marlborough. It dominates the country’s white wine scene, accounting for 81% of the nation’s total white crop, with Sauvignon Blanc making up 78% of the production. And, following the 2022 harvest, growers and producers were relieved in 2023 – relieved after a bad season plagued with rain and disease pressure the year before, leading to forced picking decisions and wine infected by botrytis. Indeed, 2022 was neither the most fun of vintages to make nor to taste, and many remain somewhat scarred by the experience.

According to the annual Vineyard Monitoring Report from the New Zealand Ministry of Primary Industry (MPI), rain in November and December 2022 and January 2023 created significant disease pressure while boosting growth in the canopy and weeds. The response? Shorter periods between sprays and the opening of the canopy not only increased the efficacy of those sprays but also bolstered ventilation and sunlight exposure. In its vintage survey, the MPI noted: “A third of the respondents described the season as challenging due to the regular rainfall, but most were happy with results, both in terms of yield and quality.”

Tasting the 2023s, the vintage is clearly not exuberant. Going into harvest, there was undoubtedly some post-twenty-two stress, which may have affected the response to the season. Based on the greener, less flamboyant aromatic spectrum of the wines, was it a case of safety first, tropical fruit later? Clive Jones, long-time winemaker of Nautilus, concedes, “Knowing everything was on the knife edge and after last year, we [the region’s growers] were probably a bit trigger-happy as a broad generalization. ‘Can we pick today, or should we leave it until tomorrow? Let’s pick today.’ Were people less risk-averse? Maybe we could have pushed it further in retrospect.”

That said, there appears to be a general decline in thiols, which are organic sulfur compounds that contribute to Sauvignon Blanc's distinct aroma and flavor profile. They provide typical scents of passionfruit and cat’s pee, but recently, there has been a move toward less exuberance and a more mineral, pure-fruited, linear profile. Framingham has always been one of the more offbeat Marlborough producers, even though it is now owned by Sogrape, whose brands include Mateus in Portugal and Silk & Spice in the US. Since first visiting Framingham in 2010, wild ferments, skin contact, oxidative handling, lees and low sulfur have been part of their white wine armory. While the less conventional methods were once reserved for their F-Series, these techniques have trickled down to the mainstream range at the estate and the wider region. “In the past four or five years, we have held our ferments on gross lees. It seems to build more flesh on the palate, and we are leaving them unsulfured [until bottling],” says Framingham’s Andrew Brown. Whereas aromatics were once the be-all and end-all, he adds, “We are all talking about texture as well as fruit and acid profiles today. Everyone is looking for mouthfeel.”

In broad terms, the 2023 wines are pure, juicy and fresh, with zesty acidity and moderate alcohol levels of 12.5% to 13%. After a year of powdery mildew and botrytis pressure, 2023 came through as a clean vintage. However, there were some unfortunate firsts: downy mildew made its debut appearance in the region because of regular rains. However, a clement March and early April 2023 notes the MPI, “combined with increased canopy management, including more frequent spraying, meant neither disease caused a major reduction in grape yield or quality.” At the cheaper end of the spectrum, there’s a definite increase in quality compared with 2022, but there is still dilution and a vague array of Sauvignon Blanc flavors. Can you really hope for concentration when cropping at an average of 14 tonnes per hectare (approximately 98hl/ha)?

**Martinborough – The Growing Season**

Across the Cook Strait on the North Island, Martinborough was less lucky than Marlborough, but producers were still counting their blessings that they were outside the direct path of Cyclone Gabrielle. It was a temperate and wet season, with 680 millimeters of rainfall during the growing period, almost in line with the region’s annual average total. There was no letting up through the damp squib of the summer. It was a constant battle in the vineyards without a sustained dry period. Roger Parkinson of Nga Waka publishes growing season data in his annual vintage report. The headline for 2023? “I can’t stand the rain.” A reflection, he says, of “how we felt about the season and acknowledging the recent death of the great Tina Turner!” Meanwhile, the difficult season at Palliser led to the grapes being picked based on disease pressure rather than ripeness. Naturally, lower average yields in Martinborough helped to some degree. Still, it’s a lower alcohol year with high acidity and less flavor ripeness, and botrytis has inevitably crept into some cuvees. This will be a year for the whites rather than the reds.

**Hawke’s Bay – The Growing Season**

The arrival of Cyclone Gabrielle in mid-February did not spell the end of the season for everyone. The statistics show that the region’s harvest was only down 4% from 2022, with late-ripening red varieties reaching the finish line. But Chardonnay, the white variety the region opts to hang its hat on, really suffered. In this report, the top Chardonnays from the region hail from the excellent 2021 and good 2022 vintages. The top 2021s are perhaps the best yet. I challenge any Burgundy lover not to be impressed by Bilancia’s Tiratore and Trellinoe, Craggy Range’s Les Beaux Cailloux, Tony Bish’s many Chardonnays (particularly Zen), or Trinity Hill’s 125, among others. It is a vintage full of substance, concentration and power, and it just has the edge over 2020 and 2022.

**Central Otago – The Growing Season**

Whites represent a small slice of the Central Otago production, with Pinot Noir accounting for 75% of its wines. Far, far away from the troubles caused by Gabrielle, Central Otago remained in its own bubble, quite unlike the rest of the country. Considered semi-continental, it is also home to the most arid part of New Zealand. Phil Handford of Grasshopper Rock explains in his vintage report that it was a tough start to the season: “By December 31, we had a season which had seen a frosty start, more rainy days, greater disease pressure and running at least a week behind normal.” A dry, warmer-than-average spell helped the vines play catch-up. There were a few drought concerns, with just 44 millimeters of water falling across in the 82 days, but a rain episode refreshed the vineyards on February 21. The finish to the season threw a few frosts to keep them on their toes, but Central Otago largely escaped much of the drama that regions further north on the east coast suffered. It has a reputation for being an unpredictable territory with the danger of late frosts and snow occasionally falling in summer, but it’s been comparatively benign. “Only once in the past 25 years have we had a seriously small crop, which was 2005,” says Jen Parr of Valli. “We have had five years of relative ease, no nasty surprises except the occasional hail or frost. We just feel guilty about what’s happening elsewhere in the country – you could call it survivor syndrome.” Readers can expect the usual pure, pristine Rieslings and supple Chardonnays from the region.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712861194692-NZ+Whites_Bottle+shot.jpg)

**Looking Ahead**

The New Zealand wine industry’s success and financial viability are based on one grape variety. It’s a rollercoaster ride for producers, with concerns of oversupply turning to anxieties over shortages within months. In the lead-up to Christmas 2023, there were still tanks filled with wine from the 2023 vintage, and importers were sending out cut-price festive deals in a bid to shift stock and empty tanks in time for the upcoming 2024 harvest. But the forecast pendulum has swung in a matter of weeks. The 2024 harvest looks set to be small, with predictions of a decline in production by anywhere from 10% to 30%, depending upon whom you ask. Now, they’re glad to have the stock in the cellar as the grass-covered hills turn dry and brown. While winemakers are pleased that a smaller crop will lead to quality rather than quantity, the accountants are less happy, as are the large retailers who are scratching their heads amid talks of restricted allocations.

Sauvignon Blanc continues to be a runaway success despite the wine literati sniffing condescendingly at its mention, which is deeply unfair. However, I’m convinced that New Zealand should hang its hat on Chardonnay when it comes to holding its own in the fine wine sector. Yet, plantings have dropped by more than 5% in the past decade, and exports have stagnated or fallen, depending on the vintage. At the same time, the number of hectares dedicated to Sauvignon Blanc has increased by 35%, and exports have been up by 73% since 2014. While market demand has ensured the growth of Sauvignon Blanc vineyards, the economics of growing the variety make it much more attractive to the grape-grower. Using the 2023 vintage as an example, a tonne (metric) of Sauvignon Blanc fetched NZ$2300, while Chardonnay achieved an average of NZ$2760. Despite the slight premium paid for Chardonnay, the average tonnage per hectare is where the variety comes unstuck. In 2023, a Chardonnay vineyard averaged 8.3 tonnes per hectare versus 16 for Sauvignon Blanc. The result is that the revenue a grower makes from tending a hectare of Chardonnay averages out to about $24,288, while the same hectare planted with Sauvignon Blanc would raise $38,180 (NZW Vineyard Monitoring Report Marlborough, 2023). Considering the numbers, it’s hardly surprising that vineyard owners are choosing to grow Sauvignon Blanc rather than Chardonnay, particularly with expenses rising year-over-year – especially labor costs. The future of Chardonnay relies upon quality wine producers that own their own vineyards or winemakers willing to pay more to assure Chardonnay stays in the ground, which ends up pushing the price of the wine into brackets only Burgundy drinkers think is reasonable.

But it’s not as if Chardonnay is an easy grape to grow. It buds early and in a cool climate that inevitably comes with the risk of spring frost. It is also highly susceptible to powdery mildew. Clones with a tight bunch architecture, like B95, are most exposed to botrytis, while the leaf-eating brown beetle known as the grass grub also loves to munch on Chardonnay vines. Nonetheless, the quality-focused New Zealand wine community shows an increased drive and desire to master Chardonnay. The country launched its first Chardonnay Symposium in October 2023 in Hawke’s Bay. The Marlborough wine community (which has been running a ‘Pinot Bootcamp’ for local winemakers over the past decade) decided to switch varieties in 2022, and its focus is now on exploring Chardonnay, sharing trial wines in a bid to pool knowledge. These are all tangible indicators that the Kiwis are taking Chardonnay more seriously.

That said, New Zealand Chardonnay has been good for as long as I’ve written about New Zealand wine. A decade ago, there were just a handful of excellent Chardonnays, but time has brought about a larger number of what could be termed ‘benchmark wines.’ The original references have become increasingly refined and precise as vines grow older and winemakers gain more experience. Why, then, aren’t sales increasing? Murray Cook, Dog Point’s winemaker and a committee member for the Marlborough boot camp, suggests one of the possible reasons why it has yet to find its place in the market: “Every wine-producing country in the world probably makes a Chardonnay, so it’s a crowded market. New Zealand’s biggest export market, the USA, also makes large volumes of Chardonnay, so it could be seen as taking coals to Newcastle. When New Zealand is thought of, it’s often led by Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, and perhaps Chardonnay isn’t on the radar.” That radar needs to be reset, and the 2021 vintage has provided the perfect wines to transmit the message. Cyclones permitting.

I tasted the wines in this report both at home and at various trade tastings in the UK.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[All Change: New Zealand Reds](https://vinous.com/articles/all-change-new-zealand-reds-apr-2023), Rebecca Gibb MW, April 2023

[New Zealand Whites: The Great Divide](https://vinous.com/articles/new-zealand-whites-the-great-divide-apr-2023), Rebecca Gibb MW, April 2023

[New Zealand Reds: Treading Lightly](https://vinous.com/articles/new-zealand-reds-treading-lightly-apr-2022), Rebecca Gibb MW, April 2022

[Desperately Seeking Sauvignon](https://vinous.com/articles/desperately-seeking-sauvignon-mar-2022), Rebecca Gibb MW, March 2022



2023 New Zealand Whites: The Cyclone Vintage

2023 New Zealand Whites: The Cyclone Vintage (Apr 2024)

### Disznókő Tokaji: Latest Releases

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 09, 2024

I have adored and drunk Hungarian Tokaji for over 20 years now, and though I don’t have the time to visit the region or report as widely as I would like to, I do taste the wines whenever possible. There is no escaping the fact that sweet Tokaji wines are a niche outside of Hungary, notwithstanding the quality and the effort that goes into making them and the value they represent. That was evidenced by a tasting of Disznókő’s latest releases at St. Martin’s Hotel in London. Maybe it was because of the inclement weather outside, but I found myself alone in the tasting room with estate director, László Mészáros (picture below). Invited sommeliers were only notable by their absence. That is a great pity, emphasizing what a tough category sweet wine is at the moment, out of vogue with consumers whether it is Sauternes, German Riesling or, indeed, Hungarian Tokaji.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712669619555-disznoko+bottles_Covercopy.JPG)

Of course, not all Tokaji is sweetened by Aszú berries, and dry Furmint can be exceptional. Disznókő’s dry wines under the “Inspiration” label are simply delicious and an outstanding value for money. Personally, I enjoy these wines when blended with a little Hárslevelú grape variety, a bit like adding Semillon to Sauvignon Blanc. Quality reaches its peak with their range of sweet wines at the higher levels of Puttonyos, five or six. Their single vineyard bottling from the Kapi Vineyard has wonderful tension and complexity. A handful of more mature vintages were less interesting, to be honest. That does not infer Tokaji cannot age; rather, it underlines the strides that have been made at the estate over the last decade.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712669587933-disznoko+laslo_copy.JPG)

_Estate director László Mészáros_

I will leave it there for now. Hopefully, this brief foray into Tokaji will spur interest in these exceptional wines and one of the region’s finest producers.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Royal Tokaji: 2017 Latest Releases](https://vinous.com/articles/royal-tokaji-2017-latest-releases-sep-2021), Neal Martin, September 2021

[Royal Tokaji Co. & Disznókő - Latest Releases](https://www.vinous.com/articles/royal-tokaji-co-disznoko-latest-releases-aug-2020), Neal Martin, August 2020

[Mád Idea: Royal Tokaji 1990-2013](https://vinous.com/articles/mad-idea-royal-tokaji-1990-2013-jul-2019), Neal Martin, July 2019



Disznókő Tokaji: Latest Releases

Disznókő Tokaji: Latest Releases (Apr 2024)

### Alsace 2022 Whites – A Lucky Escape

BY ANNE KREBIEHL MW | APRIL 04, 2024

The first week of my Alsace trip in January 2024 was characterized by snow-covered conifers of the Vosges, negative temperatures and icy roads. While these conditions made driving tricky, ice and snow were a blessing both to vineyards and forests. They absorb meltwater and, along with already incessant rain in the fall and winter of 2023, they replenished their water reserves. But I will discuss that more next year. Most of the reviews in this report cover the 2022 vintage, along with a sizeable portion of 2021s as well as 2020s and 2019s – depending on the various release schedules of the growers. Although I tasted a mere handful of 2023s, the focus of this report remains on the 2022s.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712170398616-The+steep+slopes+of+Grand+Cru+Sommerberg+looking+down+onto+Niedermorschwihr_copy.jpg)

_The steep slopes of the Sommerberg Grand Cru look down on Niedermorschwihr._

**Speaking with Hindsight**

When speaking to growers, it became clear that the more recent experience of the 2023 harvest had already colored the view of the hot and dry 2022 vintage. Yes, dry stress occurred in 2022, but it paled in comparison to 2023. Like elsewhere, a warm and dry summer characterized the 2022 growing season in Alsace. While there was dry stress in some stony soils, especially in well-drained, steep, granitic and sandstone slopes, the limestone and marl soils fared much better. Thus, dryness rather than drought distinguishes the 2022 growing season. Compared to other regions in Europe, Alsace got away relatively lightly. Localized showers helped, even if an August hailstorm damaged the Brand and Sommerberg Grands Crus.

Growers were happy to have decent yields, albeit lower than the average, due to dryness after the often-devastating losses of 2021. This resulted in some stunning wines from concentrated grapes with expressive and juicy fruit flavors. Even the Sylvaners brim with fruit in 2022. The 2022 Rieslings show concentration and often come with a fine phenolic structure that makes up for the lower acidities when compared to 2021 – while tasting pristinely bright and fresh. I had already addressed this mechanism in my reports on Germany: less water moving through the vine in drier years means fewer minerals like potassium are deposited in the grapes. These minerals usually buffer the pH level of the resulting wines, but with lower deposits, there is less buffering and hence, even lower acidities shine brightly. Jean Boxler thinks that concentration rather than acidity determines the longevity of Riesling, as he grows Riesling on the steep and extremely well-drained granitic slopes of the Sommerberg Grand Cru. However, a variety like Riesling will always last the distance when planted in such a world-class site by such an assiduous grower. Vine age also made a crucial difference – younger vines suffered more than established, mature vines when it came to water stress. The white Pinots display fuller bodies and both Pinots and Gewurztraminers benefited from phenolic structure to balance the fruit – a practice that the wineries I visited are honing and fine-tuning with every year.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712170513430-Even+the+bears+like+grapes+in+Alsace+-+this+statue+in+Andlau+combines+he+village%27s+twin+emblens+-+the+bear+and+grapes_copy.jpg)

_Even the bears like grapes in Alsace. This statue in Andlau combines the village's twin emblems: the bear and grapes._

**2022 Growing Season – The Recap**

"We were not hit by spring frosts," Olivier Humbrecht MW explained at Domaine Zind-Humbrecht. “Bud break was early to middling, and flowering began in Clos Jebsal on 20 May. The rest of the vineyards followed by the first week of June. Then temperatures got super hot later in June. Heat and dryness caused serious problems. While the hillside vines did better, due to later flowering, the Riesling on the valley floor suffered.”

The vines on the plain surrounding Turckheim and Colmar are on well-drained, gravelly and sandy soils without much clay and are thus prone to dry stress. Humbrecht notes: “As a result of the wet 2021, to begin with, the vines had huge potential yield-wise, but this was evened out by heat and drought between June and early August. We had a little rain in late June, which was beneficial. The year passed without major disease issues, except for the usual oïdium scare towards the end. The harvest started super early on the 22 of August, but then we stopped for a week. Most of the harvest took place in the first two weeks of September, with a few Gewurztaminer vineyards picked in late September. We had to be quick as ripeness was advancing fast because of some rain in mid-August. The Brand got a nice storm in August, which was super-beneficial.” He says this despite it turning into a hailstorm. “The storm moved on to Sommerberg, causing some grape loss and then moved further to Wineck-Schlossberg, where we lost half of our Riesling. Later, we wished for more hail as the vineyards spared from hail did not get water. This sounds crazy,” he laughs. “Apart from that, 2022 was a normal vintage with a huge difference between hillsides and valley floors in terms of yield,” he said. The vines on the plains saw a 50% reduction, while the ones on the slopes experienced only a 10-20% decrease, except for areas affected by hail.

In Alsace’s far north, Etienne Loew in Westhoffen said that “we had rain, always in extremis, so there was no stress.” Arnaud Baur of Domaine Charles Baur in Eguisheim sums it up: “Compared to 2021, 2022 brought much easier conditions, much drier, much sunnier, with balanced rain.” But not everyone was so lucky: Jean-Frédéric Hugel in Riquewihr observes that “most of France had a heatwave of 40-plus degrees Celsius. Alsace was spared the heat but not the drought. Two thousand twenty-two was our second-lowest harvest due to drought, as Riesling does not deal well with drought, while Gewurztraminer and Pinots love it.” Eddy Leiber-Faller said that on 15 August, 35mm of rain softly fell over the course of five to six hours, alleviating the Schlossberg Grand Cru. “This was providential,” he says, “after that, it was sunny but cooler.”

For the 2022 harvest, Humbrecht also notes that speed was key. “Sugar ripeness moves quickly, the physiological ripeness, too. For an average to smallish crop, we still had about 100 people in the vineyards. It was hot, so we wanted to finish early in the day. Humans and grapes suffer when temperatures rise above 30 degrees Celsius.” He also notes that most wines had very low malic acid levels, and while most wines go through malolactic conversion, “this did not really impact their balance.”

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712170635669-Etienne+Loew+in+Westhoffen+shows+off+both+rocks+and+wines_copy.jpg)

_Etienne Loew in Westhoffen shows off both rocks and wines._

**Cellar Challenges**

Humbrecht says that despite low disease pressure making vineyard work easy, work in the cellar was hard. To him, this is not only due to lower mineralization via less sap flow in dry years (see above), when less nitrogen is deposited in the grapes, leading to less yeast-assimilable nitrogen, which is crucial in fermentation. He explains that “during drought and heat, soils enter dormancy. Microorganisms are sleeping, which is not a problem [since they easily revive with water], resulting in much less nitrogen production.” There simply is less nitrogen in the soil, not only less nitrogen deposited in the fruit. Humbrecht cites this as the chief reason for the sluggish ferments of 2022. At the Humbrecht cellar, where cultured yeasts are avoided, they inoculated slow ferments with livelier ones. His last 2022 wines finished fermenting in August 2023, and he notes that “often, the last half percent of alcohol is the most difficult to ferment.” His verdict is that “structure and acidity were possible to achieve in 2022, but it came with the sacrifice in yield.” Domaine Kreydenweiss, further north in Andlau, is another biodynamic estate that does not employ cultured yeasts. Maarten van Beurden notes that one of the takeaways from the 2022 vintage was the importance of intervening early with yeast from a lively ferment if fermentation slows down rather than leaving them to their own devices for too long. Because some ferments lasted into October 2023, Maxime Barmès of Domaine Barmès-Buecher in Wettolsheim had to bottle four times instead of the usual two or three.

**2021: Work Like Never Before**

Two thousand twenty-one stands in stark contrast to 2022. At Domaine Albert Mann, where the current release is 2021, Jacky Barthelmé describes the relentless nature of the 2021 growing season. He points out that the year was a lottery – some sites, especially around Eguisheim, were almost wiped out, and others got away with a minor loss of yield. “We had rain in spring,” he says, “which was good, but then it did not stop, not during flowering either. We have vineyards in 11 different communes and had mildew problems in two to three of them. We decided to stop working the soil, cut the grass in the vineyards to allow for more ventilation and we never hedged the tops of the vines so early – because this is where the mildew starts. While we tried to minimize spraying, some parcels required intervention twice or three times a week, and this is where we saved the harvest,” Barthelmé says about the month of May. “A big team de-leafed the canopy for ventilation and even spraying was done manually rather than by tractor. In this one month, we worked like never before. During flowering, we lost 5-10% of yield, resulting in _millerandage_, which, in the end, was a boon. [Due to looser grape bunches.] Then, we lost another 15-20% to mildew. Some parcels were not affected at all; in others, we lost 40%.” Barthelmé notes that Eguisheim, Katzenthal and Gueberschwihr were complicated, while the stony, steep sites of Schlossberg and Furstentum only saw 5% of losses. To make up for this, he remarks, “In the middle of August, the rain stopped. We had no rain during harvest,” adding that fermentations were easy.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712170739762-Jean-Fr%C3%A9d%C3%A9ric+Hugel+of+Famille+Hugel+and+his+grandiose+selection+of+wine_copy.jpg)

_Jean-Frédéric Hugel of Famille Hugel and his grandiose selection of wine._

**Rules, Rules, Rules**

Since 2011, Alsace allows labeling wines with communal or Village appellations so long as they conform to more restrictive production guidelines. Right now, there are 14 of these. Some villages limit certain varieties to specific outlined vineyards, like Gewurztraminer in Bergheim, for instance. “A silly appellation” is Sylvie Spielmann’s succinct verdict. Hence, Mathieu Deiss labels his village wine Berckem rather than Bergheim, and Kreydenweiss now labels their village Riesling, which used to be called Andlau, ‘Riesling Au Dessus de la Loi’, or Riesling above the law, due to these regulations. Some wine growers wonder if these village appellations serve a purpose or are just another layer of nonsense.

Residual sugar in Riesling remains a controversy. After authorities ruled in 2021 that all Riesling except for _Vendange Tardive_ and _SGN_ must be legally dry to be labeled varietally, Rolly Gassmann started a movement against the ruling. His petition has gained more than 5,000 signatures from around the world so far. “The most important thing is whether the wine is good or not. The rest does not matter,” he says. “We cannot throw 2,000 years of history on the rubbish heap.” To him, this is “a new war.” I fear these discussions will rage on – when the real problem is structural, not legal.

**Ongoing Consolidation**

In [last year’s report](https://vinous.com/articles/alsace-2020s-and-2021s-just-like-janus-apr-2023), I noted that “according to figures by CIVA, of the roughly 4,000 Alsace grape growers, 48% are cooperative members and 35% sell wine in bulk, which leaves independent wineries at just 17%.” This year, several growers spoke with concern about the impending merger of two already large cooperatives: that of Wolfberger, based in Eguisheim, comprising between 300-400 grower members and covering roughly 1,200 hectares of vineyards, and Bestheim, based in Bennwihr, representing as many growers, with around 1,400 hectares of vineyard. Bestheim itself is the result of “successive mergers,” as they put it, between the smaller co-operatives of the villages of Bennwihr, Westhalten, Obernai, Sigolsheim and Kientzheim-Kaysersberg. This merger is likely to create a juggernaut that, in one fell swoop, would control 2,600 hectares of vines – representing 17% of Alsace’s total 15,471 hectares of vineyards, selling under the Bestheim and Wolfberger brands, plus the Lucien Albrecht and Willm brands, both owned by Wolfberger. This follows the distribution deal signed in 2022 between Arthur Metz, a huge player in the Crémant business owned by Grands Chais de France, and the roughly 300-hectare cooperative Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim. Grands Chais de France, a wine producer and négociant with a strong French and pan-European winery portfolio, complete with a global logistics network, is owned by the Alsace-based Helfrich family, who also now bring Dopff & Irion, part of Pfaffenheim, under their distribution. This is quite some consolidation in this relatively small region.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712170829848-Laure+Adam+and+her+father+Jean-Baptiste+Adam+with+one+of+their+old+ledgers_copy.jpg)

_Laure Adam and her father, Jean-Baptiste Adam, with one of their old ledgers._

**Behemoth Bubbles**

Séverine Schlumberger of Domaines Schlumberger in Guebwiller says that once the respective co-operatives’ members vote in 2025, Wolfberger and Bestheim will come together and become a monster, make the weather, and set the tone. In her view, these businesses “have backed a horse that cannot run. They were enemies yesterday, and today, they are friends not by choice but by necessity. And it makes it harder for those of us who want to make quality wines.” The business model relies on quantity, high yields and competitive pricing – a race to the bottom. Marc Tempé of Domaine Marc Tempé says that these behemoths “in the past at least had different voices, now they are one giant voice, almost a monopole that can depress prices. To make everything tally, they have to push up yields.” At least half of Bestheim’s output is Crémant – or six million bottles. CIVA, the Comité Interprofessionnel des Vins d'Alsace, states in its latest production figures that “AOC Crémant d’Alsace rose to 33%, a third of the bottles produced, a new record.” This means in 2023, one-third of all Alsace grapes were made into Crémant. In 2022, it was 28%. This stands _vis-à-vis_ a production of just 3% of Grand Cru wines, down from 4% the previous year. “With more than 43.2 million bottles produced,” CIVA continues. “Crémant d’Alsace exceeded its previous record established in 2018 with 41.3 million bottles.” This goes hand in hand with the fact that Pinot Blanc (a statistic that subsumes Auxerrois plantings) now is the most planted variety in Alsace, with 24.6% to 72% of it used for sparkling production of perfectly competent, clean but mass-produced wines that can sell for less than five Euros in French supermarkets but usually retail around the seven to nine Euro mark.

The gap between quality and quantity is thus getting steadily bigger. Another grower tells me that some of the Scandinavian liquor monopolies send out tenders based on “crazy prizes” that artisanal winemakers simply cannot achieve. The big question is what these oceans of Alsace wine do for the prestige of the region. When I look at this with optimism, it may well present a great opportunity for those who uphold artisan production with a focus on site, soil and environment. This report contains notes on some delicious Crémants that are the antithesis of anodyne fizz.

I tasted the wines in this report during estate visits in January 2024.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Evoe! German and Austrian Sekt Report](https://vinous.com/articles/evoe-german-and-austrian-sekt-report-mar-2024), Anne Krebiehl MW, March 2024

[2022 Burgenland and Austria’s East – A Heaven for Unsung but Compelling Reds](https://vinous.com/articles/2022-burgenland-and-austria-s-east-a-heaven-for-unsung-but-compelling-reds-feb-2024), Anne Krebiehl MW, February 2024

[Alsace 2020s and 2021s: Just like Janus](https://vinous.com/articles/alsace-2020s-and-2021s-just-like-janus-apr-2023), Anne Krebiehl MW, April 2023



Alsace 2022 Whites – A Lucky Escape

Alsace 2022 Whites – A Lucky Escape (Apr 2024)

The Only Way Is Essex: Danbury Ridge

The Only Way Is Essex: Danbury Ridge (Apr 2024)

Northern Rhône: Where Diversity Ignites the Senses

Northern Rhône: Where Diversity Ignites the Senses (Mar 2024)

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

### Trentino-Alto Adige: Pushing the Limits

BY ERIC GUIDO | MARCH 26, 2024

In a region where producers speak of how favorable climate change has been to them, winemakers in Trentino-Alto Adige are now starting to feel its adverse effects. For years now, I’ve sat and listened to the logic of how the warming trends observed worldwide only helped producers here achieve ideal ripeness with varieties that struggled in the past. An excellent example of this is the surge in serious Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon, which is now starting to perform at levels that were never possible in the past. Teroldego from Trentino and Alto Adige shows tremendous depth and complexity without using any small oak or any oak at all. I am surprised each year that I visit and taste single-vineyard Pinots or Bordeaux blends that impress me while doing a wonderful job of communicating a sense of place. However, this success has been at the expense of many other varieties that now struggle to achieve balance.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711461257598-The+village+of+Kurtatsch+and+its+surrounding+vineyards+courtesy+of+Benjamin+Pfitscher_COVER.jpg)

_The village of Kurtatsch and its surrounding vineyards._

A perfect example is the St. Magdalener DOC, situated around the capital city of Bolzano. Despite being a city in Italy’s most northern region and surrounded by the alpine influences of the Dolomites, Bolzano has long been one of Italy’s warmest locations as it sits in a heat sink at lower elevations at the base of three converging valleys. The warmer temperatures here meant that for many years, the Lagrein and Schiava grapes that make up the St. Magdalener DOC could ripen and create wines with stunning depths of fruit, bracing acidity and a peppery alpine feel. Unfortunately, the changing climate has been stripping these wines of some of their energy and verve in recent years., I have experienced these odd changes firsthand, having traveled multiple times to Bolzano in December and January. During my visits, I’ve walked the city in just a light coat and hiked up the surrounding vineyards wearing only a sweater.

Many whites in the region are now starting to show issues with balance and come across as overly rich, nearly glycerol in texture, and sometimes cloying with fruit ripeness. While this isn’t the case throughout all of Alto Adige as you travel further north along the Isarco or Adige valleys, the writing is on the wall. Even in the region’s cooler locations, things are changing; it’s just that the effect hasn’t been as noticeable up until now. Throughout Trentino and the southern half of Alto Adige, vineyards that once created many crisp, acid-driven and mineral whites are now simply too warm to recreate this style. Granted, there are ways that producers seek to combat these issues, one being elevation, yet this isn’t a perfect answer either. With higher elevations comes a new set of challenges, the most notable being frost. The higher a producer goes into the mountains, the shorter the growing season will become, and with that, the less likely to achieve polyphenolic ripeness. Purposefully picking earlier is another option, yet it is also imperfect, as the underripe grapes tend to show their greenness in the finished wines. If a consumer drinks them cold enough and the acidity is high enough, it can make for an exciting experience but a flawed one all the same. Otherwise, producers must depend on shading their fruit through canopy management. One even commented to me that the hail nets seen throughout the region have had a positive effect, as they filter the sun's rays. Unfortunately, of all the techniques mentioned above, there isn’t one answer.

It is now becoming normal to find Sauvignon that is pungently over-ripe and spicy on the nose and palate or Pinot Grigio and Pinot Bianco that push 14% alcohol. The same goes for Sylvaner and Kerner, which can present an experience that makes it difficult to get through more than one glass. With all that said, producers are not at the breaking point. Balance can be achieved by reorganizing plantings and finding the right location for a suitable variety. This is something that I hope Alto Adige’s new UGA project will help alleviate (more on that later). There are many gorgeous, acid and mineral-driven whites in this report, yet many more show the dry warmth of recent vintages.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711462883053-Old+vines+in+the+St.+Magdalener+DOC+surrounding+Bolzano_copy.jpg)

_Old vines in the St. Magdalener DOC surrounding Bolzano._

**The 2022 Vintage: Tipping the Scales**

This year's tastings were focused primarily on the newly released, freshly styled 2022s and late released, stylized 2021s. I use this reference due to the common trend in the region to have two completely different sets of wines that mimic the same varieties yet made in entirely different styles, such as a fresh Pinot Grigio for immediate consumption, along with a richer and often barrel-refined version released the following year. Consumers will find this with most regional white varieties, including Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon, Riesling, Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner and Gewürztraminer. The late-release category also includes single-vineyard, parcel or “terroir” specific wines. The importance placed on them has more to do with their source and not just a level of fruit ripeness, which is a happy development, in my opinion. In the best vintages, late-release wines can reach extraordinary levels of quality and provide serious aging potential. Still, as warming trends continue, many of them can come across as sloppy and over the top. This is undoubtedly a fear I have for the 2022 vintage, just as I did with 2020. The good news is that the 2021s show the promise that early tastings hinted at last year.

As for the 2022s, they are rich and intense, with masses of ripe fruit, yet often lack the acidity to find balance. Last year I referred to the 2020s as “ripe, supple, round wines that often lack the acidic thrust to satisfy fully.” From a white wine perspective, I find a lot of similarities in these two vintages. The vintage spin doctors speak of the 2022 whites as having power yet also maintaining freshness. Unfortunately, that’s not uniform across the region. The 2022 vintage started late with cool temperatures that delayed budding; nevertheless, the vines quickly caught up as warm weather through May resulted in an early bloom. June, July and August were all excessively hot and dry, which led to harvests that started two, and in some cases, three weeks early for white varieties. Due to the lack of water, disease pressure was very low. However, the ripe grapes were loaded with sugar and lower acidity.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711461360721-The+Brenntal+vineyard+of+Cantina+Kurtatsch+courtesy+of+Florian+Andergassen_copy.jpg)

_Cantina Kurtatsch's Brenntal vineyard._

As mentioned earlier, some areas benefited more than others. The Isarco Valley is an example. Here, temperatures balanced out earlier than in the south, leading to a harvest that was seven to ten days early. That balance is notable when looking at many of the 2022s from this area (Köfererhof and Manni Nössing were huge standouts). The same can be said for Val Venosta in the extreme northern reaches of the Adige Valley, where Riesling and Kerner faired especially well. (Castel Juval presented some excellent wines.) Yet, in the end, these are still warm vintage wines.

Reds throughout Trentino-Alto Adige fared better in 2022, at least from the perspective of Pinot Noir, Merlot and the Cabernets. The warmth of the season imparted the wines with intense fruit profiles. However, with fall temperatures setting in, the vines were able to recover prior to harvest. In the end, producers were able to pick fruit at optimal ripeness. Ultimately, this is a warm and dry vintage, and I expect the wines will always have a sun-kissed feel. One notable comment from a producer included a mention of there not being any green aromas in the Cabernets, typically a sign of underripeness. I find this ironic since it’s been a calling card of the region's reds for decades. This does make me wonder about the future. Are the days of light, energetic, balanced alpine-styled reds slowly coming to a close?

Looking back to 2021 through the late releases, especially when tasted alongside the 2022s, shows the depth and vertical nature of the vintage. There’s more of a chiseled feel to the whites, a combination of minerality and acidity married with a rich core of ripe fruit. While still a warm year in general, the balance found in 2021 takes the wines to another level. This resulted from cooler conditions leading up to the summer, followed by severe rainstorms and hail in July that naturally reduced yields. Warm temperatures continued through August and September, allowing producers to pick at their leisure. Even so, like a mirror image of 2022, the late-ripening reds suffered as the season turned much colder in October.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711461401880-The+tasting+room+at+Nusserhof+in+Bolzano_copy.jpg)

_The Nusserhof tasting room in Bolzano._

**Looking to the Future in Alto Adige**

Throughout Italy, major wine-producing areas have been working to establish a set of approved UGAs (Unità Geografica Aggiuntiva or “additional geographical units”) to define their region and vineyards further. Alto Adige is no different. At this time, the current laws prohibit wines from using geographic names on labels, allowing only the DOC Alto Adige, the individual variety and Vigna (single-vineyard names). However, a plan to correct this, proposed for approval in 2023, didn’t pass due to a mistake on the application paperwork. That said, producers in the region are looking forward to an approval starting with the 2024 vintage. While some areas have based their classification systems on natural borders, boundaries of townships or plain fantasy, the approach that Alto Adige is taking goes back to regional maps drawn up in 1870 when the region was under the rule of the Austro-Hungarian empire. These maps even contain the names of the owners of each location, as well as neighbors and winemakers who had access to certain sites.

Martin Foradori of J. Hofstätter, a winery noted for being one of the pioneers of including vineyard names on their labels, explained how thirty years ago, producers would still use the names of geographical locations based on the names of the farmstead or a traditional “Hof.” That system became corrupted as specific locations became more desirable than others, and producers began to plant vines congruently to these vineyards and then adopt the location name for their own wines. Due to this, before long, many of these designations lost their individual character. The new UGA system will seek to correct much of this confusion by going back to what was originally seen as specific locations of unique value and terroir, combined with the modern-day knowledge they have acquired over time concerning which varieties perform best in which location.

_![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711462864195-The+vintage+library+at+Pojer+%26+Sandri%2C+as+well+as+some+experiments+from+decades+past_copy.jpg)_

_Pojer & Sandri's vintage library with some experiments from decades past._

This brings up the next step, following the passing of the new rules, which will limit the varieties planted within each UGA. The idea is to restrict the UGA to producing only five varieties designated as being able to deliver superior fruit from that specific location. This would set Alto Adige apart from most other Italian regions that have adopted the UGA system. A producer can still plant a different variety within the designated area, but they cannot use the location on the label. Currently, between 80 to 90 different UGAs are being proposed for the new system.

This will also help smaller producers stand out in a region dominated by cooperative wineries that pool together the small holdings of hundreds of small families. As I’ve mentioned in the past, co-ops in Alto Adige produce a much higher quality than most people realize. In fact, they are the backbone of the region and stand behind the name of their brands to assure a future for them and the farmers who contribute to them. Because their wines typically comprise large blends of small parcels throughout the region, it will be difficult for the co-ops to use the new UGA designations without rethinking their entire portfolio. At this time, most co-ops opt to use a “Super Alto Adige” fantasy named wine to communicate a superior level of quality. With the new system, this will likely change. Several wineries are already working with individual vineyard plots (Cantina di Cortaccia - Kellerei Kurtatsch being a perfect example), and I’m sure we’ll see many more in the future. As for the smaller producers, who are often producing wines from single sources, the new rules will allow them to elevate their portfolio with UGA-designated wines that can communicate a sense of place.

Hopefully, 2024 will be the year that the new rules successfully pass because this system will not only aid the region in better communicating its terroir to worldwide consumers, but it will also force producers to look hard at which varieties to plant in which locations and make logical changes that could help to offset some of the adverse effects of global warming.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711461472925-Looking+across+the+Non+Valley+from+700+meter+elevations+in+Trentino_copy.jpg)

_Looking across the Non Valley from 700-meter elevations in Trentino._

I tasted the wines for this article in Trentino-Alto Adige in December 2023 and in our New York City offices in January 2024.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Trentino-Alto Adige: Knocking on Heaven’s Door](https://vinous.com/articles/trentino-alto-adige-knocking-on-heaven-s-door-may-2023), Eric Guido, May 2023

[Trentino & Alto Adige: The Sky’s the Limit](https://vinous.com/articles/trentino-alto-adige-the-sky-s-the-limit-jun-2022), Eric Guido, June 2022

[Trentino & Alto Adige: Worlds Apart](https://vinous.com/articles/trentino-alto-adige-worlds-apart-nov-2020), Eric Guido, November 2020



Trentino-Alto Adige: Pushing the Limits

Trentino-Alto Adige: Pushing the Limits (Mar 2024)

### Evoe! German and Austrian Sekt Report

BY ANNE KREBIEHL MW | MARCH 21, 2024

_“Evoe!”_ is the ecstatic, inebriated cry of the Maenads, followers of Dionysus, as they dance and drink with abandon. It is also the name a German winemaker gave to his Sekt. I salute his spirit and wit, especially considering how these merry and seemingly ‘out of control’ women have been portrayed over centuries, striking either fear or excitement into male hearts and minds. For this report, this joyful exclamation and sense of purpose is apt. At long last, this once illustrious category of wine is in full revival mode. Much is happening in the world of Sekt, or sparkling wine, both in Germany and Austria.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711028864476-Maenads+by+John+Collier+%281850-1934%29%2C+Southwark+Heritage+Centre%2C+London%2C+UK%2C+Creative+Commons+Licence_copy.jpg)

_Maenads by John Collier (1850-1934), Southwark Heritage Centre, London, UK, Creative Commons License._

**The Term Sekt**

The word _Sekt_ simply means “sparkling wine” in German and thus covers any wine with bubbles, but this inaugural Sekt report focuses on wines fermented in bottle. As a mother-tongue German speaker who has lived abroad all her adult life, I rejoice that there is finally a German wine word that is easy to spell, remember and pronounce. However, my fellow Germans have struggled with the term. The history of Sekt, detailed later, means that the word was once commonly associated with the gallons of cheap, tank-fermented, slightly sweet bubbles made on a truly industrial scale in Germany’s (and to a lesser degree in Austria’s) _Sektkellereien_, or large Sekt producers. Today, Sekt has come full circle, as both Germany and Austria are seeing the first real flowering of traditional method Sekt.

**21st Century Rehabilitation**

Austria founded its _Sektkomitee_ in 2013 and created a new legal framework for Sekt in 2016. Germany began legally defining terms like _Winzersekt_, i.e., Sekt made by a winegrower from estate-grown grapes, in the 1980s and linked this to bottle-fermentation. They later even defined the French term Crémant in German law, as the word Sekt was not seen as sufficiently classy for a bottle-fermented wine. Years had to pass before Sekt was no longer a dirty word. By the time the famous Reichsrat von Buhl estate in the Pfalz managed the huge scoop of hiring Champagne Bollinger’s former cellarmaster, Mathieu Kauffmann, in 2013 as their chief winemaker, German Sekt was already fizzing away below the surface. However, this hire and its well-orchestrated marketing campaign brought the idea of bottle-fermented, even fine, Sekt into fuller public consciousness. Finally, the time was ripe for good German Sekt. Thus, 2013 was a key year for Sekt in Austria and Germany. The intervening decade has been immense for fine Sekt in both countries.

_![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711028888266-%27Listen+to+the+Bubbles%27%5E%5E.it+says%5EJ+like+we+need+any+encouragement%5E_copy.jpg)_

**Thinking Fizz**

Making fine sparkling wine is about far more than taking base wine and fermenting it for a second time in bottle. High-level sparkling wine needs carefully selected sites and viticultural methods aimed at achieving different ripeness parameters than those required for still wine, including harvest dates. Pressing is a crucial process that requires both experience and expertise. In the past, Sekt was often a contingency product, a place for young vines or an odd parcel of grapes. Today, this is no longer the case. Over the past 15 years, understanding and embracing the culture of making base wine specifically for Sekt has been the single biggest change in both Austria and Germany that has made this revival possible. Culturally, these developments took place as so-called Grower Champagnes gained currency, sharing that same model of growing grapes and making traditional method wine in artisan fashion. As drinkers learned that great sparkling wine did not have to come from large brands, acceptance of the artisanal traditional method Sekt grew. When the German VDP published its Sekt statute in 2018, also adopting the term for its sparkling wines, the battle was won.

**Notable Names and Grapes**

By now, the former pioneers have been joined by newly emerged specialists. Ebner-Ebenauer, Jurtschitsch, Harkamp and Zuschmann-Schöffmann now join Malat, Bründlmayer and Loimer in Austria. In Germany, longtime specialists Raumland, Frank John, Barth and Bamberger are now accompanied by Griesel and Burkhardt-Schür. In both countries, artisanal production is still dwarfed by tank-fermented production, of course. The latest figures available from Germany date to 2021 and show that just 1.7% of the country’s vast annual Sekt production of between 260 and 280 million bottles were bottle-fermented, yet this small percentage accounts for around 4.5 million bottles of traditional method Sekt. There are no comparable figures for Austria.

This initial Sekt report shines a light on current releases. Fizz lovers will feel very much at home with Pinot Noir- and Chardonnay-based Sekts, which form the majority of this report. The top wines in this category can easily stand shoulder to shoulder with artisanal Champagnes. Price-wise, they cover a range that is comparable to good-value NV Champagnes. However, other grape varieties also come into focus. In Germany, that is Riesling, of course, a grape eminently suited for the bubble treatment but in a different aromatic register. For Austria, Zweigelt often yields stunning pink sparkling wines. I plan to explore these varietal specialities in greater detail in future reports. Some wines from more aromatic varieties, like Grüner Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier, were submitted, and they are less convincing than sparkling wines. But for now, here is a dive into the history of Sekt.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710946439951-Sekt+ageing+in+Br%C3%BCndlmayer%27d+cellars+in+Langenlois%5EJ+Kamptal_copy.jpg)

_Sekt aging in Bründlmayer's cellars in Langenlois' J Kamptal._

**Fizzical Interchange**

When the term Sekt was first coined by a famous Berlin actor in 1825, it denoted his favorite drink, namely Champagne. At the time, there was not much German Sekt. Experiments had been made, but the first German Sekt house was not founded until 1826 in Esslingen, near Stuttgart, then in the Kingdom of Württemberg. Its founder, Georg Christian Kessler, had worked for none other than Barbe Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin, the famous Clicquot widow, in Reims. But this is not the only connection Germany has with Champagne. When Napoleon first occupied the German territories on the left bank of the Rhine from 1792 onwards, turning them into French _départements_ in 1798, the Germans enthusiastically took up the French fashion for fizz. This fashion did not pass with Napoleon’s defeat in 1815; on the contrary, it had only just begun. A Franco-German interchange continued as it always had, regardless of borders and politics, featuring an unusually high number of Germans active in Champagne. One of the first was Florens-Louis Heidsieck, who founded his eponymous house in 1785. Veuve Clicquot not only employed Kessler, who became her business partner in 1815, but also a German cellarmaster, Anton Alois Müller, who is credited with inventing _pupitres_, or riddling racks. When Joseph Jacob Placide Bollinger came to Champagne in 1822, he got a job with Müller-Ruinart before founding his own house in 1829. In 1827, Gottlieb, Jacobus and Philipp Mumm founded Champagne Mumm. In 1838, William Deutz and Peter Geldermann founded Champagne Deutz. A young Joseph Krug left his hometown of Mainz, or Mayence, in 1824 to find employment in Paris and Champagne, initially working for Jacquesson before founding Champagne Krug in 1843. Austria had its own Sekt pioneer in Robert Alwin Schlumberger, a German from Stuttgart who worked for Ruinart Pére et Fils in Reims. Marrying the Viennese Sophie Kirchner in 1841, Alwin founded the Schlumberger Sekt house in 1842 in Vienna before settling in Bad Vöslau, Thermenregion, in 1843.

**Germany’s Illustrious Sekt History**

The success of the French region was not lost on the industrious Germans who made wines along the same northerly latitudes. The town of Koblenz, or Coblence, at the confluence of the rivers Mosel and Rhine, became somewhat of a center for Sekt production, especially via the Deinhard brand, which began making Sekt in 1843. Sekt was so fashionable that Christian Adalbert Kupferberg founded his _Sektkellerei_ in 1850 in Mainz, and Adam Henkell started producing Sekt in Wiesbaden in 1856. These companies were immensely successful at home and abroad, selling their wines as ‘Sparkling Hock,’ ‘Sparkling Moselle’ and even ‘Champagne,’ as the name was not protected then. The Prussians, with characteristic punctiliousness, kept statistics. These enlightening figures show the industry's rapid growth: annual production totals state 250,000 bottles in 1840, 1.25 million bottles by 1850, 4 million by 1878, 6 million by 1886, 9 million by 1892 and almost 12 million bottles in 1900. These are impressive figures for the 19th century. By the end of the 19th century, the term Sekt was firmly established in the German language.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710946503642-Corks%5EJ+corks%5EJ+corks%5E.%5E_copy.jpg)

**Death and Taxes**

Prussia’s military success boosted the above numbers. Once victorious in the Franco-Prussian War of 1870/1871, they founded the second German Empire and annexed Lorraine, an excellent source of base wines. As the figures above show, the industry expanded exponentially. Such success had to be taxed, of course. Kaiser Wilhelm introduced his _Sektsteuer_, or Sekt tax, in 1902 and famously used it to finance his navy and military projects. Crucially, he also restricted the production of sparkling wine to _Sektkellereien_ only, a ban not lifted in German law until 1971. The First World War put an end to this golden age of effervescence. Export markets collapsed, and the Versailles Treaty expressly forbade the use of the term Champagne for any German sparkling wine. Despite a short flowering during the Roaring Twenties, Sekt was revived only in postwar Germany but in a very different fashion. Established brands like Henkell, Kupferberg, Söhnlein and Deinhard all gradually moved from bottle - to tank fermentation in the 1960s and 1970s. Increasing European integration from the 1980s onwards meant that incrementally, producers used pan-European base wines, wherever they could be sourced cheapest, to make Sekt – which became shorthand for sweetish, fizzy plonk, still to be had for less than €5 in German supermarkets. Things never were as crass in Austria, where industrial German fizz is sold just as cheaply. The name Sekt had lost all its luster.

**Slow Revival**

To this day, Germans are some of the world’s most enthusiastic drinkers of sparkling wines, with per capita consumption exceeding 3 liters per annum, fueled by the ubiquitous availability of cheap, tank-fermented Sekt. While the German wine law of 1971 meant that all wine producers were allowed to make Sekt, it took a tax technicality in the mid-1980s to make artisanal Sekt production practicable. Some pioneers had started bottle-fermenting Sekts for private use in the 1970s, like the Roth family of Wilhelmshof in the Pfalz, whose initial experiment began with 52 bottles – one for every Sunday of the year. A handful of others, like Volker Raumland, built a whole business specializing in Sekt. In Austria, it was Gerhard Malat in the Kremstal who first made Sekt from his own grapes in 1976, but he also had to go to court to fight for the right of a winegrower to make Sekt. He won. These German and Austrian innovators were 40 years ahead of their time. At long last, the industry at large is catching up with them.

The vast majority of the Sekts in this report were tasted in London in late 2023 and early 2024. A few notable Sekt names are still missing, but I hope that these will join the ranks in the coming year.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

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Evoe! German and Austrian Sekt Report

Evoe! German and Austrian Sekt Report (Mar 2024)

### Borgo del Tiglio Rosso Riserva: The Road Less Traveled

BY ERIC GUIDO | MARCH 20, 2024

I’ve been visiting Mattia Manferrari and his father, Nicola, for several years. Borgo del Tiglio is one of the first appointments I secure when planning a trip to Friuli because they are a benchmark. The Studio di Bianco and Ronco della Chiesa are the wines that come to mind when collectors hear Borgo del Tiglio and with good reason. Nicola Manferrari, a master of Tocai Friulano, spent the last four decades perfecting his craft and creating what could be considered Friuli’s greatest white wines. But many people don’t realize that Manferrari also spent that time perfecting what he believed to be the best red grape to grow in the region, Merlot, even when it was far from fashionable. Amazingly, it only took him four years to begin producing the red wine that started turning heads amongst consumers and critics, the 1985 Rosso della Centa, but that didn’t stop Manferrari from making continued improvements. Those improvements resulted in a second wine that often drinks and ages just as well as the first, the Rosso Riserva, which is the focus of this vertical.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710944310724-Borgo+del+Tiglio+Hamlet+and+winery_copy.jpg)

_The Borgo del Tiglio hamlet and winery._

This should come as no surprise to the fans of the estate. Nicola Manferrari came to winemaking without any formal education as an enologist or an agronomist. Instead, Manferrari studied both chemistry and biology while training to be a pharmacist. However, after Manferrari’s father died in 1981, he found himself tending to three hectares of vines that had been in the family for generations. Manferrari quickly fell in love with farming and winemaking but wasn’t satisfied with his earliest efforts. This inspired him to begin following the lessons of French winemakers, looking to Champagne and Bordeaux, and even studying the language to help him traverse any material he could find on the topic. Manferrari’s scientific mind guided him to constantly experiment and look beyond the ideas of the local winemakers of the time.

Today, Mattia Manferrari is leading the charge, with Nicola still heavily involved in the day-to-day operations. Mattia Manferrari officially started at the winery, working initially on the commercial side in 2016, yet recalls an entire childhood of working amongst the vines and in the winery.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710944335010-Mattia%2C+current+generation%2C+and+his+father%2C+Nicola+Manferrari_copy.jpg)

_Mattia Manferrari, the current generation running the winery, and his father, Nicola Manferrari._

**The Rosso Riserva (Collio Merlot and Collio Rosso)**

The story of the Collio Rosso Riserva is intimately entwined with Rosso della Centa (100% Merlot), Borgo del Tiglio’s top red. Upon taking over his family vineyards, Nicola Manferrari heavily focused on the development of his Friulano, yet he also owned a one-hectare parcel of old vine Merlot on the San Giorgio hills in Brazzano. This was a perfect location for the variety, with marl and sandstone soils, steep inclines and terraced dry-stone walls. However, Manferrari wasn’t happy with the result of his Merlot in the first vintage, so he began studying Bordeaux techniques. In those first years, Borgo del Tiglio produced a Collio Merlot in 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1987, 1988 and 1989. In 1991, Cabernet Sauvignon, planted in the San Giorgio vineyard in 1987, was introduced in the blend with the Merlot. Starting with the 1996 vintage, Manferrari named this wine Rosso Riserva. Manferrari came to this decision to differentiate this wine from the new Collio Rosso (white label) made with young vines and recently purchased vineyards or fruit not deemed suitable for the Riserva or Rosso della Centa. The Rosso della Centa, instead, debuted in 1988 with the 1985 vintage and has always hailed from a Merlot plot within the San Giorgio vineyard. Rosso della Centa, one of Italy’s most iconic reds, is only bottled in the very best years. So far, it has been produced only 12 times: 1985, 1986, 1990, 1995, 1996, 1999, 2001, 2006, 2010, 2011, 2015 and 2018.

The 1985 was a huge success despite a commonly held belief that Friuli could not make great red wines. However, Manferrari only wanted to produce Rosso della Centa in vintages that he believed were of the highest quality. He decided that the Collio Merlot, or Collio Rosso Riserva, would be made in the years that his vines did not achieve the special qualities to warrant the higher-end bottling. Local beliefs about red varieties were also focused more on Cabernet than Merlot at the time. Yet even today, Manferrari will tell you that the soils are too compact, and the region's climate doesn’t favor Cabernet Sauvignon. Even so, Manferrari decided to plant a small Cabernet Sauvignon parcel in 1987, which was first added to the Rosso in 1990 (a vintage that is no longer available to taste at the winery). With the inclusion of Cabernet Sauvignon, the Collio Merlot then became the Collio Rosso and, over time, when the DOC rules changed in 1995, the Collio Rosso Riserva.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710944377003-Overlooking+Brazzano+di+Cormons+from+the+Borgo+di+Tiglio+vineyards__copy.jpg)

_Overlooking Brazzano di Cormons from the Borgo di Tiglio vineyards._

The percentage of Merlot to Cabernet can vary from vintage to vintage, depending on the character of the vintage, with Merlot usually taking the lead from 60 to 90%. The 2001 vintage is an outlier. It produced a fantastic crop of Cabernet Sauvignon, resulting in a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. By the same token, in a year like 2007, the Rosso was made entirely from Merlot as the Cabernet couldn’t achieve ideal ripeness and added harsh tannins. Manferrari was never truly satisfied with the performance of his Cabernet, and in 2017, decided to tear up the vines, once again making the Collio Rosso Riserva a varietal Merlot.

Today, depending on the quality of the vintage, Borgo del Tiglio can produce both the Rosso Riserva and Rosso della Centa, or one or the other, which I notated whenever possible in the following notes. If a vintage doesn’t warrant a Rosso della Centa, that juice can be used to bolster the Rosso Riserva. When neither wine is made, Borgo del Tiglio declassifies the wine down to their “White Label” range or sells it in bulk.

From a winemaking standpoint, very little has changed over the years, starting with the second vintage of Collio Merlot, which aged in two brand-new French barriques. To this day, the average amount of French oak used for the Rosso Riserva is about 75%. The grapes for the Rosso Riserva are fully destemmed and fed by gravity into twelve-hectoliter conical steel vats. Before 1990, the vats were all concrete. After fermentation, the wine rests on the skins for another three weeks before being moved, by gravity, into barriques, where it completes malolactic fermentation and then rests for two years, with typically one racking.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710944404364-The+Collio+Merlot%2C+to+Collio+Rosso+and+finally+Rosso+Riserva_copy2.jpg)

_The Collio Merlot to Collio Rosso and finally to the Rosso Riserva._

**A Few Generalizations About This Tasting**

First and foremost, the aging curve on the Rosso Riserva is nothing short of amazing. I was overly impressed with the freshness and energy in the wines going back to the mid-eighties. In fact, it was only the early eighties wines that showed past their peak. In the younger wines, as in 2000 and beyond, each vintage still showed an ability to improve further in bottle. Another interesting point is the quality I found in the Rosso Riserva even in years when both wines were produced, such as 1986, 1996, 2001 and 2018. This shows the tremendous potential of these vines and how the Rosso Riserva has graduated beyond being more than just a second wine. Both vineyards that produce the Rosso Riserva and the Rosso della Centa are located around the winery with a similar terroir. Yet, the former hails only from a very distinct plot at mid-slope planted in the 1970s. Having said that, I’m amazed by the small amount of attention the Rosso Riserva received over time.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710944440564-Collio+Merlot+original+label_copy.jpg)

_The Collio Merlot original label._

I tasted through the Collio Rosso Riserva vertical along with Mattia and Nicola Manferrari at their winery in Brazzano di Cormòns in December 2023. The winery and tasting room are just meters from the vines producing the Rosso Riserva and Rosso della Centa. Due to availability and time constraints, we did not taste the Collio Merlot/Collio Rosso from 1981, 1986, 1991, 1993 and 2008.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

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Borgo del Tiglio Rosso Riserva: The Road Less Traveled

Borgo del Tiglio Rosso Riserva: The Road Less Traveled (Mar 2024)

### Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 19, 2024

My 15 minutes of fame began around midday. A strange female voice telephones from the Paris press office of the _Daily Torygraph_ - the starting pistol for a surreal afternoon when every national newspaper craves an interview with yours truly. Soon, there’s a call every five minutes. My wife hollers up the stairs…

“The BBC’s on the phone.”

They want me to come into the studio, but there’s not enough time, so I’m transferred to a household name journalist and interviewed for that evening’s Six O’Clock News, the frivolous ‘…and finally’ to cheer up listeners after all the war and pestilence. I’ve barely put down the receiver when it’s the call I’ve been dreading…

“Hi. This is _The Sun_.”

How did this muck-raking tabloid obtain my number? Hacked? Should I call Prince Harry for advice? A spurned ex-girlfriend giving lurid details of our love life? A winemaker avenging a poor review? Once we establish that his knowledge of wine goes little beyond cheap beer, I agree to help him rustle up something witty to appeal to a readership that I suspect is unfamiliar with the double-Guyot pruning or biodynamics. The only stumbling block is a requested list of supermarket recommendations – not my specialty. After surviving that call and scooping up my daughter from infant school, I return home to find a stranger in a trench coat, armed with a Nikon weaponized with an enormous lens, loitering at the front door.

“You Neal Martin?” he says gruffly, breath stained with tobacco. “Been sent to take a photo for tomorrow’s piece in _The Sun_.”

We repair to the green outside my home. I pose within smelling distance of the dog waste bin. Later, I stubbornly refuse to listen to the Six O’Clock News, though I can tell I’m being aired by my daughters’ hysterical laughter. _The Sun_ “exclusive” appears the following day, occupying the entire page seven under the headline_: I hate wine snobs…I write my guide in McDonald’s_. The first part is true, the second a misquote, but whatever, it’s a fun piece, even if my five wine recommendations are completely fabricated.

Why recount my 15 minutes of fame? Well, the previous evening, at a pre-organized press conference, sitting next to the abdicating king of wine criticism, Robert Parker announced that coverage of Bordeaux was being handed to some geezer from Essex who never even drank wine until he was twenty-five. First assignment? The 2014 Bordeaux vintage…

Time flies. It’s difficult to believe that a decade has already passed since my 17th en primeur. I was fortunate insofar that 2014 followed the woeful 2013s, so the only way was up. Hence, there was a veil of optimism that the wines were at least better than the previous three vintages, essentially a “useful” crop for merchants and consumers alike, inasmuch as they were decent wines at decent prices.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710775101878-bordeaux+2014+tasting+%281%29.JPG)

_Between flights of the Southwold 10-Year-On tasting held at Farr Vintners_

I revisited the wines blind in 2018, soon after joining Vinous. Now that the 2014s have reached ten years of age, I conducted two annual tastings to examine their evolution. The first, organized at Bordeaux Index, comprised around 57 top-tier wines that I could assess at a leisurely pace. The second, just a few days later, took place at the annual “Southwold” 10-Year-On at Farr Vintners’ office; 150 wines tasted blind and overlapping the first tasting. For this reason, you will see either amalgamated notes or, if deserving, separate snapshots, two separate reviews, especially if the same wine showed differently. All in all, it is a thorough examination of the vintage. Readers should note that I habitually fold this into my annual “Centuries of…” article; however, since these wines probably occupy more cellars and restaurant lists than older vintages ending in the same number, I decided to publish as a standalone piece.

**The Growing Season**

The year began wet and warm, in fact, the warmest for some 24 years, and this was crucial in terms of replenishing the water table after a succession of dry seasons. Temperatures rarely dipped below freezing. March was warm, which would have prompted an early budding had the vines not been dissuaded by cold night temperatures. Buds finally broke around mid-March, approximately a fortnight earlier than average. Unlike 2017, a warm and dry April precluded frost damage. Towards the end of April, inclement weather saw some white varieties affected with some _filage en vrille_, whereby the vine expends energy-producing tendrils instead of bunches. May was cool and damp, and this caused some _coulure_ and _millerandage_ as well as diluting mineral uptake, though fortunately, flowering passed evenly and quickly over a week in early June.

_Mi-floraison_ was around ten days earlier than in 2013. Two heat spikes followed on 21 June and 17 July that caused some _grillure_, especially towards the eastern flank of Saint-Émilion. This aside, June was relatively benign and raised hopes for a growing season worth getting excited about. Alas, July was cooler than expected insofar that temperatures only exceeded 30° Celsius on three occasions and never in August. The late Prof. Denis Dubourdieu’s report noted that average temperatures were 5.8° Celsius below the 1981 to 2010 average in July and 2.2° Celsius below average in August, along with 12% less sunlight hours. Therefore, the vine refocused its energy upon foliage to increase photosynthesis instead of bunches, hence the protracted _véraison_. In some localities, _véraison_ began in mid-July, and in others, it did not start until the end of August thanks to the cool temperatures, lack of diurnal temperature variation and moisture levels. Bunches began to show uneven ripeness levels that obliged constant work in the vineyard to thin out obvious under-ripeness. It should also be noted that Saint-Émilion and Margaux suffered more rainfall than either Saint-Julien or Saint-Estèphe. To add to their woes, there were the constant lurking threats of oïdium and an outbreak of _cicadelles_ to make vineyard work “uncomfortable”. By the end of August, hopes had been dashed. I still recall one winemaker who confessed that they thought 2014 would end up even worse than 2013.

The second summer saved the day as a high-pressure system squatted over Europe and warded off the low depressions that might have come in from the Atlantic. Temperatures in September averaged 27.8° Celsius, with 27% more sunlight hours than in August. Despite outbreaks of thunderstorms that affected Saint-Émilion, September was a perfect month, and it verged on excessive as high temperatures caused some berries to shrivel. These had to be discarded before entering the vat, although at least these high temperatures compensated for the lack of concentration earlier that summer. The harvest kicked off around 3 September with the dry whites as usual under dry conditions. The Merlot started coming in around 22 September after potential alcohol levels rocketed by almost a degree per week. The clement conditions enabled vineyard managers to drag out the growing season; most of the Cabernets were picked in an October that was warmer than usual and with only 20mm of rainfall. The berries were found to be small and concentrated. In Sauternes, the second summer was a mixed blessing since it precluded the onset of _pourriture noble_, at least until an outbreak of rain in October caused an explosion of botrytis that necessitated almost block picking rather than the piecemeal _tries_ through the vineyard. Estates had to be careful since some vineyard managers noticed some _bouïroc_ or sour rot in a small number of bunches, but finally, they were able to crop fruit that would create very fine, sweet wines.

Before fermentation, it was wise to keep the fruit cool because the temperatures were warmer than usual. Maceration periods were a little shorter, and pumping over was less frequent compared to other vintages, as many feared over-extraction.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710775120441-bordeaux+2014+firsts+%281%29.jpg)

**The Wines**

Comparing the two tastings, I felt that the wines showed slightly better at the first tasting at Bordeaux Index. I wonder if that might have something to do with the weather. While I am not one to believe in root or fruit days, atmospheric pressure does impinge upon wine. The first tasting was a bright sunny day, the second coinciding with a deep low-pressure system that brought torrential rain.

Some 2014s have evolved faster than envisaged since my last assessment in 2018. This takes the shine off the vintage and suggests that it twinkled brightly in its youth, but many of its alumni were not predisposed toward longevity. It certainly lacks the legs of, say, 2010 or 2016, perhaps even 2012 or 2017. Most alarmingly, I was perturbed by some Right Bank wines that felt overly advanced with tertiary aromas that usurped the fresh fruit-driven scents evident six years ago. Such secondary scents can definitely be appealing. However, they were occasionally accompanied by insufficient fruit, thus rendering them a little mean, even dour. Moreover, there is no question that some of the modern, turbo-charged Right Bank wines are hobbling along, at worst, quite distasteful. Thank goodness we have moved on.

As you move up the hierarchy, the wines have much more to offer, not least those blended with Cabernet Franc: **Cheval Blanc, Figeac, Ausone** and a refreshingly more restrained **Pavie** in Saint-Émilion. **L’Eglise-Clinet** , **Lafleur** and in particular, **Vieux Château Certan** , excel over in Pomerol, likewise **Petrus** and **Clos l’Eglise**. Yet none of the aforementioned ranks among their best wines, and overall, I do not consider it a fecund vintage for the Pomerol appellation. To wit, the likes of **Clinet** , **Hosanna** and **La Conseillante** show much better in other vintages.

Pessac-Léognan was up and down with the usual suspects performing well, perhaps my personal favorite **Domaine de Chevalier** , notwithstanding a decent showing from nowadays less bombastic **Pape-Clément**. While the **Malartic-Lagravière** was perplexing compared to previous showings, **Haut-Bailly** came across as nicely restrained and classic in style. Some, like **Carbonnieux** and **La Louvière** , imply that these wines have zipped past their drinking windows, which frankly is far too brief considering their standing. Between **Haut-Brion** and **La Mission Haut-Brion** , I erred towards the latter, though again, neither belongs within the canon of top vintages.

As the 2014 Bordeaux vintage matures, the wines confirm a view stated in my original en primeur report: the Left Bank is more consistent than the Right Bank. That is logical since the clement September and October months advantaged later-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon-orientated blends, and as I already mentioned, those on the Right Bank with a splash of Cabernet Franc. The Margaux appellation is inconsistent, although I admired the second bottle of **Palmer,** having demanded a second bottle, convinced the first was simply out of sorts. I scored the **Pavillon Rouge** so generously that it was a little different from the Grand Vin. Blind tasting can skew results in this way since Deuxième Vins are predesigned to flatter in their youth. There are a couple of overperformers, namely **Siran** and **Prieuré-Lichine** ; however, if I had to buy one Margaux in 2014, then it would definitely be the **Brane Cantenac** , a wine that I have rated highly on several occasions and showed splendidly in both tastings.

At this juncture, the appellation that appears to rise to the challenge is Saint-Julien. It was “business as usual” on release, though it did not grab headlines. However, Saint-Julien was the most satisfying flight for some attendees, including myself, at the Southwold 10-Year-On tasting. For sure, you cannot go wrong if it has “Léoville” in the name, in particular **Léoville Poyferré** , one of the few 2014s that caused a rush of endorphins. Given market prices vis-à-vis other vintages, this represents a wise acquisition. I was more positive towards the Pauillacs than other attendees. Pick of the bunch without question is the **2014 Mouton-Rothschild** , a contender for wine of the vintage. This is one of a handful of wines that transcends the limitations of the season, partly due to the skills of former winemaker Philippe Dhalluin. The **2014 Latour** , already late-released, was tremendous and a few steps in front of **Lafite-Rothschild**. The **2014 Grand-Puy-Lacoste** is outstanding and performed neck-and-neck with the First Growths. I must caution that two bottles at the blind tasting were oxidized and were not scored. Other strong showings came courtesy of **Clerc Milon** and **Pichon Comtesse de Lalande** , though I’ve had better bottles of **Pichon Baron** in the past.

Saint-Estèphe was touted highly at en primeur. For sure, there are some excellent wines, namely **Montrose** , **Calon-Ségur** , a dark horse in the form of **Tronquoy-Lalande**. A fabulous Haut-Marbuzet had the chutzpah to score higher than the Cos d’Estournel, though stylistically, there are similarities between them, a sense of opulence and voluptuousness. Some of the wines seemed to have lost a bit of momentum in recent years, and I expected more from Meyney and a misfiring Phélan-Ségur that I’ll endeavor to revisit. Sometimes bottles misbehave. Don’t we all?

The Sauternes benefitted from a much-needed rush of botrytis that was ignited by mid-October rains after a long arid stretch. The Southwold tasting saw impressive showings from **Climens** , **de Fargues** , **Doisy-Daëne** and **Rayne-Vigneau**. My highest score was not **Yquem** but, in fact, **Suduiraut** (which blind, I mistook for Yquem.) It’s not a consistent vintage for Sauternes: the La Tour Blanche is a little toffee-ish to my liking, and Doisy-Védrines is missing the _mineralité_ of its Barsac siblings. Given prices, it is certainly a vintage that I would give consideration to.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710775152011-bordeaux+2014+pomerols+%281%29.JPG)

**Final Thoughts**

Even since I started writing about wine, I have felt that it is a writer’s duty to keep returning to a vintage and monitor its evolution. Some are more predictable than others. Revisiting a vintage at any juncture is certainly not to reconfirm previous scores to convince readers of your preternatural consistency. Wines differ from bottle to bottle as evidenced in this very tasting. A vintage can be like a murmuration of swallows and dive en masse in an unexpected direction. Perusing my report in 2018, I wrote that the wines would doubtlessly be “more unpredictable than other vintages,” and so, that is one prediction proven correct.

After an initial burst of promise that lasted several years, these wines suggest that with a handful of exceptions, they are not going to repay long-term cellaring. Some are beginning to fray at the edges. They are definitely not unattractive. There’s part of me that feels the negative remarks in this introduction don’t quite correlate to a bunch of scores in the low 90s. On reflection, perhaps I was hoping for a surprise package, a comparatively unsung vintage that would prove doubters wrong. I suspect it is simply a vintage to approach with modest expectations. You need to sort the wheat from the chaff, separate those that deserve drinking in the near future and others that might deliver more, and do not expect much above a notional 95 points. Maybe we have become accustomed to that in recent years? At best, the likes of Léoville Poyferré, Mouton-Rothschild, Lafleur and Grand-Puy-Lacoste will be intriguing to revisit at 15 years, though I wonder whether the 2014s might start flagging. To reiterate my point, it is definitely not a bad vintage. The optimist in me expected more, especially based on the positive showing in 2018. Sometimes, vintages are like lovers. They just let you down when you least expect it.

I would not go so far as to say that the 2014 vintage’s moment of fame is as fleeting as my own. Still, it will be interesting to see whether it was predestined to be a vintage attractive only in its flush of youth or whether, at ten years, we simply encountered the wines at an awkward juncture. Perhaps I should ring up _The Sun_ to ask whether they are interested in reporting on the wines to their readers? Somehow, I think not. The one thing that I can promise is that this report was _not_ written at McDonald’s. I no longer eat fast food - another thing that has changed since 2014.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes](https://vinous.com/articles/a-century-of-bordeaux-the-threes-aug-2023), Neal Martin, August 2023

[A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos](https://vinous.com/articles/a-century-of-bordeaux-the-twos-sep-2022), Neal Martin, September 2022

[A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines](https://vinous.com/articles/a-century-of-bordeaux-the-nines-sep-2019), Neal Martin, September 2019



Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

### Slovenia: Just the Beginning

BY ERIC GUIDO | MARCH 14, 2024

Standing in a windswept hillside vineyard, I see the Alps to the northwest, soaring like a giant wall, the bay of Trieste visible to the southeast as the hills slowly descend in elevation toward the Isonzo River. These vineyards are eerily familiar. Ribolla Gialla, Friulano and Malvasia vines are all around. Yet there is also something alien about them, as my guide recites the names _Rebula_, _Sauvignonasse_ and _Malvazija_. A robust and chilling wind blows from the northeast, yet I don’t feel cold despite it being the middle of December. My guide exclaims, “That’s the _Bora_.” From these moments alone, you might think I’m in Friuli, but I’m not even in Italy. I’m in Slovenia.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710363365783-Looking+out+across+the+border+of+Slovenia+and+Italy+toward+the+Gravner+winery_copy.jpg)

_Looking out across the border of Slovenia and Italy toward the Gravner winery._

I’m getting ahead of myself. Let me backtrack to add a little context.

This story begins in Friuli, more specifically in Oslavia, three years ago, standing in Joško Gravner’s vineyards and looking across an unrecognizable border. From that hilltop perch, I could see directly across a series of undulating hillsides and a patchwork of vineyards falling on the Slovenian side of the border. It was Brda. Divided only by a small brook and a strip of woodlands, one would never imagine this was not one continuous wine-producing region. The fact is, at one time, it was. With a natural continuation of topography, colors and even architecture being so apparent to the naked eye, how could these regions be so different? Suddenly, my curiosity was piqued. I needed to understand how something so close and seemingly so similar could be so different. I wanted to know why conversations with sommeliers in Collio would inevitably lead to discussing Brda and the wine revolution across the border. That’s how I ended up in Slovenia only a few years later.

Following the drawing up of borders after World War II, producers in both Slovenia and Italy found themselves separated from family, friends, property and vineyards that were suddenly no longer within their own country. Gravner and Radikon are perfect examples, as are Movia and Marjan Simčič on the Slovenian side. Before 1991, when the Republic of Slovenia declared independence from Yugoslavia and borders slowly began to open, these producers would have to go to great lengths to care for their land in a foreign nation. These issues existed on both sides of the border, but now that is a distant memory. In fact, today, crossing into Slovenia is as easy as skipping over a stream or driving down any ordinary road. As a result, I often hear of new projects spanning both sides of the border and even a push to somehow reunite the two regions of Collio and Brda.

The wines of Slovenia can no longer be ignored. Not only are they extremely high in quality, but they are also wildly different from their neighbors in Italy.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710363401834-Storybook+stone+walkways+in+village+of+%C5%A0martno%2C+a+Cultural+Heritage+Monument_copy.jpg)

_Storybook stone walkways in the village of Šmartno, a Cultural Heritage Monument._

**Just The Beginning**

This is the first article of what I hope will become a deeper focus on all of Slovenia and its wines. With Italy to the west, Austria to the north, and Croatia and Hungary to the east, it's easy to imagine how diverse the winemaking and styles can be from one border to another. However, I’ve chosen to focus primarily on Brda for this first expedition into Slovenia. Brda is a hotbed of activity and produces the lion's share of Slovenia’s best wines, but I also felt it necessary to touch on the Vipava Valley and Kras. Located in the southwestern part of Slovenia, known as Primorska, all three of these districts (the term for a growing area, or AVA in Slovenia) are natural extensions of their neighbors in Friuli. That said, I included one or two other producers making wines in other parts of Slovenia. I came to know these producers by word of mouth or conversations across the border as my fascination with the country and its wines has grown.

The terroir of Brda is extremely similar to Collio. Keep in mind that, at one time, this was all one region under Austrian rule before being divided. In fact, when looking at a map of Collio and Brda, it’s as if someone took a marker and drew a crescent moon border right through the middle of one wine-growing region. Brda shares the same hilly interior and lush woodlands as Collio. Yet in Brda, we find a slow progression of high elevations and steeper inclines as topography changes closer to the Julian Alps. The soils are also incredibly similar, formed by Flysch (a mix of chalky marls and sandstone with a high pH)—known as Ponca in Friuli and Opoka in Slovenia. These vineyards are often terraced due to steep inclines ranging from 10% to as much as 50%. The push and pull of cooling alpine influences from the north and warming Adriatic currents from the south creates a more Mediterranean climate than continental. Moreover, the harvests in Brda can run later than in Collio due to the proximity to the Alps and higher elevations.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710363431538-Looking+out+toward+the+historic+town+of+%C5%A0martno+from+the+Gonja%C4%8De+Lookout+Tower_copy.jpg)

_Looking out toward the historic town of Šmartno from the Gonjače Lookout Tower._

The Vipava Valley and Kras (Karst) both extend east from Collio and the city of Gorizia in Italy. Kras is the smallest district in Primorska, existing on the same limestone plateau as Italy’s Carso, with elevations ranging between 200 and 400 meters. Dense sheer limestone mixes with red, iron-rich soil known as _terra rossa_. Here, the primary grape is Teran, a dark, wild and high-acid red variety, followed by Vitovska, a crisp white variety that relies on its minerality to impress.

The Vipava Valley, sandwiched between the Karst mountains and the Alps, forms a corridor between the Adriatic Sea, Collio and Brda. It’s heavily influenced by strong Bora winds, with a more continental climate and alpine influences. I tasted just one portfolio from the Vipava Valley, Hedele, a serious standout. Between experiencing the wines and hearing a lot of chatter in both Friuli and Slovenia about their excitement over the Vipava Valley, I can assure readers that future reports will have a stronger focus there.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710363453097-Merlot+dominates+the+red+wine+scene+in+Brda_copy.jpg)

_Merlot dominates the red wine scene in Brda._

**The Slovenian Scene**

Despite the above, the wines in western Slovenia are markedly different from those in Friuli, as is the culture. First and foremost, English is like a second language in western Slovenia. Any American tourist would find themselves easily communicating and traveling from place to place. The culture is a melting pot of Germanic, Hungarian, Italian and Slavic influences. Meat lovers will feel right at home, as the local foods mix the best of all the surrounding nations, reminding me quite a bit of German and Austrian cuisine more than anything else.

As for wine, the scene is still developing yet has serious upside potential. Since Slovenia was under socialist rule until 1991, artisan winemaking didn’t exist beyond individuals making products for consumption between family and friends. And so, in many cases, most of Slovenia’s modern-day wine traditions have only begun to form over the last three decades. The first wave of producers were farmers with vineyard holdings who contributed to the cooperative system of the past, often learning their craft working for those wineries. Today, the younger generation is taking the reins and trying their hand at serious winemaking. As a result, many of these projects are extremely experimental and run the gamut of styles.

The primary grape is a perfect example. Rebula (Ribolla Gialla) can be produced as a fresh-and-lively or dark-and-serious wine, made with long skin contact or without, enshrouded in a cloak of new oak, or even as a sparkling wine. Many producers see this diversity as a positive. However, it can create confusion amongst consumers looking for broad generalizations. One that I can say is that the wines of Brda, no matter the variety, are often richer, more fruit-focused and have a slightly higher amount of alcohol than their neighbors in Collio. That said, they are also beautifully balanced. Locals will tell you that this is partially the result of long growing seasons. However, it’s also important to note that I find many producers in Friuli picking early to add more acidity and greenness to the wines, a practice that doesn’t always work to their benefit.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710363475775-Slovenia%27s+dominating+white%2C+from+Rebula+to+Sauvignona+and+Even+Chardonnay_copy.jpg)

_Slovenia's dominating white wines, from Rebula to Sauvignon and even Chardonnay._

I was shocked to learn that Chardonnay is the second most widely planted variety, followed by Merlot—which is far less surprising, as Brda and Friuli can excel with the variety. As for Chardonnay, my issue lies in the fear that Brda may lose its regional identity if producers lean too heavily on it. There’s certainly no shortage of excellent Chardonnay in the world. Another possible downfall I see comes from the rapid pace of growth in both Brda and Slovenia as a whole. Just a decade ago, finding more than one or two regional producers in foreign markets was rare, but now Slovenia is bursting with new projects. In many cases, these are young winemakers learning as they go, often without formal training.

The good news is that I witnessed a sense of community and unparalleled camaraderie while visiting. Even while tasting at Klet Brda—the largest co-op in Brda, which produces wines at a surprisingly high level—I was happy to find that their winemaker knew the analytical data on most of the wines that were presented to me. Later, he confided that most winemakers send samples to him for lab analysis, with which the winery is happy to assist. And that’s just it: these producers aren’t in it for themselves. They care about the positive growth of their entire region—growth being something I expect we will see much more of.

Due to the similar terroir and open-mindedness found in Slovenia and specifically Brda, many Italian producers are beginning to look across the border to find a way to expand and diversify their portfolios. Radikon is a perfect example, as is Edi Keber, one of Collio’s darlings. The Edi Keber winery, today led by Kristian Keber, is well known for turning its stereotypical portfolio of numerous Collio wines, both traditional and international, into just one wine, a Collio Bianco. Only ten years ago, Keber began revitalizing a vineyard two miles across the border in Slovenia and now produces a similar wine, under Kristian Keber, labeled “Brda.” I expect to witness more collaboration and many new projects in the coming years. In my opinion, these are still early days in the evolution of Slovenian wines.

I tasted all of the wines for this report in Slovenia during December 2023 and in our New York City offices in January 2024. Please see Friuli for vintage data now, as southwestern Slovenia follows many similar trends.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Carmignano, Montecucco and Tuscany’s Unrivaled Diversity](https://vinous.com/articles/carmignano-montecucco-and-tuscany-s-unrivaled-diversity-mar-2024), Eric Guido, March 2024

[Veneto: A Constant State of Evolution](https://vinous.com/articles/veneto-a-constant-state-of-evolution-feb-2024), Eric Guido, February 2024

[2013 Brunello di Montalcino: The Throwback Vintage](https://vinous.com/articles/2013-brunello-di-montalcino-the-throwback-vintage-feb-2024), Eric Guido, February 2024

[Washington State 2021 and 2020: From the Frying Pan to the Fire](https://vinous.com/articles/washington-state-2021-and-2020-from-the-frying-pan-to-the-fire-jan-2024), Eric Guido, January 2024



Slovenia: Just the Beginning

Slovenia: Just the Beginning (Mar 2024)

### Domaine de la Romanée Conti: A Survey of the 2021s

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 12, 2024

What a difference a year makes. After the decidedly exuberant 2020s, the 2021s from Domaine de la Romanée Conti show another side of Burgundy, one marked by a highly challenging growing season that tested the mettle of growers. In many ways, difficult years make for the most interesting discussions because individual choices so deeply inform the wines. There was plenty to talk about as Co-Directors Bertrand de Villaine and Perrine Fenal showed the 2021s in this tasting organized by long-time US importer Wilson-Daniels.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710273743859-DRC+Cover_March122024_Final.jpg)

### Cutting to the Chase: The 2021s in Tasting

Last year I noted the color intensity and overall richness in the 2020s. The 2021s are much lighter and more translucent, as Burgundy used to be. But what most struck me about the 2021s was their balance, especially with regard to oak and whole clusters. In some recent vintages, the young wines have at times shown a touch of new oak, perhaps because higher alcohols extract more wood. That is not at all the case with the 2021s. In a similar vein, whole clusters are impeccably integrated, especially considering the more mid-weight style of the vintage. The Grands-Echézeaux and, to a lesser extent, the Richebourg are exceptions, as they come across as somewhat disjointed at this stage. I was deeply impressed with the Romanée St. Vivant. It is clearly the most expressive and complete wine among the reds, at least today. I would be thrilled to own it. The Montrachet is also superb.

Readers should note that the Vosne-Romanée Cuvée Duvault-Blochet 1er Cru, Corton Grand Cru and Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru were bottled but not presented in this tasting, as yields were minuscule. I did have a chance to revisit two older vintages of Montrachet that were shown for perspective. Lastly, I have also included notes for a few additional wines from the domaine that have come my way in recent weeks.

### The 2021 Growing Season

Mother Nature threw pretty much everything she had at growers in 2021, starting with a warm winter and a cold, wet spring. The defining event of the year took place between April 6 and 8, when severe frost descended upon Burgundy. Temperatures reached minus 8/9°C (16-18°F) in the hardest-hit sites. Frost is typically most severe in lower elevations. In 2021, however, air currents carried the coldest temperatures to mid and upper slopes, damaging spots that are generally considered safer. This is the same phenomenon that affected other regions in Europe, including Bordeaux and Piedmont.

“In the end, we protected the wrong areas of the vineyard," Bertrand de Villaine explained, referring to the domaine's decision to use candles in the lower portions of La Tâche while leaving the upper sections alone. “It was impossible to manage. Usually, the vines are quite strong, but when they are shocked this early in the season, there is always a connection with what happens later. In 2021, we had oidium and botrytis to deal with as well.”

“Veraison took place in mid-August, under clear skies and dry weather,” Perrine Fenal continued. “We began picking on September 23 and finished on October 2. It’s a vintage that questions our relationship with our vineyards and nature in general. We feel we have to ponder our possibilities and limitations, which are numerous, knowing and accepting that our place is within nature, giving and receiving but not taming it."

**Harvest Dates**

9/23-24 Grands-Echezéaux, La Tâche

9/25 Romanée-Conti, La Tâche

9/26 Corton

9/27 Corton, La Tâche, Romanée St. Vivant

9/28 Montrachet, Romanée St. Vivant

9/29 Romanée St. Vivant

9/30 Corton-Charlemagne, Echézeaux

10/1 Richebourg, Corton-Charlemagne, Echézeaux

10/2 Echézeaux

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710256854155-DRC_March122024_Glass+Tags.jpg)

“Of course, yields are a difficult subject,” Fenal elaborated, “but we had no choice but to deal with it and turn the page. In the Côte de Beaune, yields were 13 hL/ha in Montrachet, 5 hL/ha for Corton Rouge and 4.8 hL/ha for Corton-Charlemagne. In the Côte de Nuits, average yields were 9-14 hL/ha for the most affected parcels and an average of 20 or so in the protected areas, which include Romanée-Conti and parts of Grands-Echézeaux."

“Naturally, we had to do a fair amount of sorting in the winery. We had grapes with thick skins, high solid-to-liquid ratios, and good phenolic intensity. The malolactic fermentations were long and smooth. The wines were bottled starting in mid-December 2022 with Romanée-Conti and Corton through to May 2023.”

It’s impossible to ignore the current state of the market, which is now correcting after several years of explosive growth. Economic prosperity as it exists today is relatively new to Burgundy, as it is throughout the wine world. Up until the early 1990s, the domaine sold wines to passersby who rang the doorbell. “We had these awful pink boxes. We put three bottles of Romanée St. Vivant in them, mostly,” Bertrand de Villaine explained. “This is something we learned from and that we never forget. Circumstances are different now, but they could go back to what they were.”

That strikes me as unlikely, but this tasting certainly offered plenty to think about. The 2021s will be very interesting wines to follow.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._

* * *

### You Might Also Enjoy

[Nature Rules/Nature’s Rules: DRC 2021 In Bottle](https://vinous.com/articles/nature-rules-nature-s-rules-drc-2021-in-bottle-feb-2024), Neal Martin, February 2024

[Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2020 & The New Burgundy](https://vinous.com/articles/domaine-de-la-romanee-conti-2020-the-new-burgundy-mar-2023), Antonio Galloni, March 2023

[Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The 2019s](https://vinous.com/articles/domaine-de-la-romanee-conti-the-2019s-jun-2022), Antonio Galloni, June 2022

[2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work](https://vinous.com/articles/2017-domaine-de-la-romanee-conti-a-day-s-work-jul-2020), Antonio Galloni, July 2020



Domaine de la Romanée Conti: A Survey of the 2021s

Domaine de la Romanée Conti: A Survey of the 2021s (Mar 2024)

2022 L'Ecole No 41 Chardonnay

2022 Muri-Gries Pinot Grigio

2022 Latta Wines Roussanne CB

2023 Abbazia di Novacella Kerner

2022 J. Hofstätter Pinot Nero Meczan

2021 Seven Hills Winery Merlot Walla Walla Valley

2019 Secret Squirrel Cabernet Sauvignon

2021 Tenuta Fanti Rosso di Montalcino

2022 CasaSmith Primitivo Porcospino

2022 Cantine Garrone Vino Rosso Munaloss

2022 Leo Steen Red Field Blend Casa Verde

2022 Le Piane Nebbiolo

2021 Vietti Barbera d'Alba Tre Vigne

2022 Noah Rossonoah

2022 Trediberri Barbera d'Alba

2022 Acrobat Pinot Noir

2021 Voliero Rosso di Montalcino

2020 Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva

2020 Morgan Cotes du Crow's

2021 Luli Wines Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands)

2022 Leonardo Bussoletti Ciliegiolo di Narni Asla

2021 Barberani Polago

2020 Thorn-Clarke Wines Shotfire Quartage

2019 Avignonesi Nobile di Montepulciano

2021 Cambria Pinot Noir Julia's Vineyard

### [The Devonshire](http://www.devonshiresoho.co.uk/)

17 Denman St

London

W1D 7HW

BY NEAL MARTIN | MAY 03, 2024

### The Food:

Potted shrimp, melba toast

Iberico pork chop with duck fat chips

Chocolate mousse with black cherries

**The Wines:**

NV Guinness

2010 R. Lopez de Heredia Rosado Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva 93

Doomsayers claiming that restaurants are in crisis ought to walk past The Devonshire. The pub's ground floor is so jammed that I cannot even see the bar. I weave my way to the restaurant's small reception desk and give the booking's name. The poor lass can hardly hear the name, and I repeat it several times. A young lad escorts me upstairs to the first floor “Grill Room,” and every table is packed. Up another staircase to “The Claret Room”. Again, it’s chock-a-block. Finally, I’m escorted to a mezzanine at the top of the building, and it is full, thankfully, apart from a banquette for two. There must be some 200 people dining at The Devonshire plus half of London downing pints of Guinness in the pub, crowds spilling outside and down the street despite the drizzle.

It’s 4:45pm on a Wednesday.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714762202299-devonshire+pub_copy.jpg)

_The Devonshire pub_

I don’t know whether it’s harder getting a table at The Devonshire as [Bouchon Racine](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-bouchon-racine-london-uk-apr-2024). The fact that I have managed both is only due to connections, and even then, the best we can obtain is 5pm with a warning we must vacate two hours later. Both eateries epitomize the contemporary London dining scene, where restaurants become the hottest ticket in town overnight after adulatory reviews. Like a shoal of fish, everyone _has_ to be seen there because these days, we cannot entertain the idea of missing out. It makes it almost impossible to keep up with the restaurant scene and, of course, makes it almost impossible to get a reservation, which hypes the restaurant even further. Sitting at The Devonshire with a faint glow of satisfaction that I’m here, a bit like when you sit down in Business Class on a plane, I wonder whether it will be as difficult in 12 months’ time. We’ll see.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714762222550-devonshire+bread_copy.jpg)

_Devonshire bread_

As I mentioned, The Devonshire follows the trend of installing a stonking place to eat above a London boozer. The standard of cuisine is better than your average gastropub and often features a renowned chef or restauranteur, theoretically going down-market, eschewing some fancy address, to serve delicious dishes in a place surfeit with character and charm, where you can pop down and grab a pint while watching the Chelsea match. The runaway success of both Bouchon Racine and The Devonshire is being copied, but of course, only a small percentage will be successful. The team behind here is publican Oisín Rogers and founder of Flat Iron, Charlie Carroll and Ashley Palmer-Watts, former head chef who previously worked with Carroll at The Fat Duck. Yes, that’s right, Heston Blumenthal’s gaff over in Bray. Apparently, the idea for The Devonshire gestated over several years, a pub-cum-restaurant with accoutrements: a wood-fire oven, a basement in-house butchery and a bakery. The location in a 4-floor, late 18th century building is one that I have walked past countless times, just outside Piccadilly station in Soho, formerly one of Jamie Oliver’s diners. I sometimes describe London restaurants as being “central,” but The Devonshire could be described as the capital’s epicenter.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714762258798-devonshire+shrimp_copy.jpg)

_Potted shrimp, melba toast_

The menu is straightforward. Handwritten on a page of A4, starters include white crab salad, brawn toast and pea and ham soup, while mains are almost entirely meat-based: lamb cutlets, beef cheek and Guinness suet pudding, lamb hotpot. If you really do eschew meat, there’s pumpkin risotto. It sounds like common or garden pub food, but the founders spent months sourcing the best ingredients, and everything just shines on the plate. It’s no fuss, unpretentious dining. Waiting for my friend, I’m given some bread, and it is light, doughy and gorgeous. Don’t ignore the bread. I’m not going to spend acres of verbiage on my potted shrimp with melba toast or the Iberico pork chop that I learned from somewhere that comes from the same source as [The Ledbury](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-the-ledbury-london-uk-mar-2023).

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714762347086-devonshire+pork_copy.jpg)

_Iberico pork chop with duck fat chips_

They’re both delicious; maybe my pork was just 30 seconds overdone, but I have no complaints. Perhaps my duck fried chips were over-salted, but there you go. I steal a bit of my fellow diner’s lamb hotpot and wish I’d chosen that. My chocolate mousse with dark cherries is fabulous. That’s all it is, chocolate mousse. No more, no less. Again, I kind of wish I’d chosen the soufflé on the opposite side of the table that unexpectedly comes with a bit of theatre, Grand Marnier poured on top and deftly flambéed by our waiter.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714762380630-devonshire+mousse_copy-COVER.jpg)

_Chocolate mousse with black cherries_

You don’t get that down the Red Lion on a Wednesday afternoon.

The wine list is rubbish. Staring at the single sheet of A4, there’s hardly anything of interest, and we were denied corkage. Fair enough. Thankfully, the **2010 Rosado Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva** from **R. Lopez de Heredia** is an obvious choice at a decent price. It’s a wonderful Rioja, blackcurrant, orange rind and white flowers on a nose that is lighter and more elegant than other vintages. Again, the palate is comparatively light and breezy, with fine-boned tannins, dark cherries and blackberry fruit. It is pretty linear and almost conservative in style. But it’s just delicious, and the simplicity of the food means that it acts as the perfect foil. This is accompanied by a pint of **Guinness**. Now, I have never been partial to Ireland’s most famous export. I’m advised to try a small glass because Carroll and Rogers traveled to Dublin to find out why it tastes much better on the Emerald Isle. They got the recipe and recreated it here, and it is delicious. It’s probably why they get through so many kegs each day in London. If you like Guinness, this is the best in London.

Here's the other thing about The Devonshire.

Two-course set dinner - £25

Three courses set dinner - £29

Go à la carte, and yes, you’re looking at £12 to £16 for starters. My pork chop was £24, but that’s still markedly less than elsewhere. Indeed, there is an egalitarian approach throughout this place, the same ethos as the pub in the sense that it’s a place where anyone can walk off the street and enter. Surveying diners, I notice that it’s full of ordinary people, a mixture of trendy Soho types, office workers, young and old, just anyone lucky enough to have nabbed a table. There’s no extortionate price prohibiting all but the wealthiest from enjoying their hospitality, which is refreshing.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714762416701-devonshire+tondonia_copy.jpg)

The Devonshire is not perfect, but it does things perfectly. It’s currently the place to be seen in London, and you’ll want to return—so will the rest of the world. It’s pub food taken to the nth degree. There’s no snootiness. There is a lot of noise and laughter. It’s hectic and perhaps teeters on chaos. You’ll love it.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: The Devonshire, London, UK

Vinous Table: The Devonshire, London, UK (May 2024)

### [Bouchon Racine](http://www.bouchonracine.com/)

66 Cowcross Street

London EC1M 6BP

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 26, 2024

### The Food:

White asparagus with Périgord truffles and Noir de Bigorre

Calf’s brain with black butter and capers

Burgundy snails

Chicken liver pate with cornichons

Rabbit with mustard sauce and bacon

Best end of veal with morels and pomme mousseline

Pear and almond tart

Crème caramel

**The Wines:**

| 1985 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé | 93 |
| 1998 Bollinger Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises | 93 |
| 2010 R. Lopez de Heredia Rosado Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia | 94 |
| 2021 Rall Wines Syrah Noa (Cape Winemakers Guild) | 94 |
| 1970 Ausone | 94 |

Who doesn’t get a frisson of excitement bagging a table at the hottest ticket in town? I don’t obsess about it. I prefer to let restaurants settle in, and when the time comes to visit, I will. However, I must confess that since opening last year, I’ve silently clamored to get my feet under the table at Bouchon Racines after friends’ eulogies left me drooling. Unfortunately, just about every other person with functioning tastebuds has the same desire, which explains why it’s easier to get a seat in the House of Lords than one at Bouchon Racine. Thankfully, a friend and acquaintance of chef patron Harry Harris managed to secure a table. A few weeks later, I clamber up the staircase above the bustling The Three Compasses pub in Farringdon. With each step, the scents wafting down become more intoxicating, a tractor beam that seems to make my body weightless as I float upstairs. I’m drooling before I’ve sat down.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714143511919-racine+menu+and+chef.jpg)

_Left: The Bouchon Racine menu. Right: Chef Harry Harris coming to our table to check that we are enjoying the food. We are._

Bouchon Racine is an homage to classic French dining, ‘bouchon’, the local term for bistros in Lyon. We’re talking nose-to-tail eating, where every part of whatever animal has been bashed on the head is served on the plate. No fancy foams or exotic ingredients, no artsy-fartsy presentation. Harris is a bit of a legend around town, having worked with Simon Hopkinson when Bibendum was in its pomp and then establishing his bistro, Racine. Harris entered an itinerant period when that closed before teaming up with David Strauss to open Bouchon Racine. It’s a slice of Lyon in the heart of London. The interior is dimly lit, with wooden paneled walls, an inviting glass-roofed conservatory at the front and that day’s menu scrawled on a blackboard. There’s a casual and relaxed vibe, a refreshing lack of pretension. The waiting staff, all seemingly half my age, are friendly and chatty. Surveying the room, every diner wears an expression of someone who’s won the lottery, except the gentleman at a neighboring table dining alone and reading a novel via a clip-on miniature lamp. Very cool.

If you’re a vegetarian contemplating coming to Bouchon Racine because nowadays even the most carnivorous places cater to those wishing not to eat something that once lived…book somewhere else. Yes, there are one or two meat-free dishes, but the menu makes no apologies for the slim selection. On this evening, we ask Harris to choose the dishes except the first.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714143644819-bouchon+racine+asparagus_copy.JPG)

_White asparagus with Périgord truffles and Noir de Bigorre_

Naturally, expectations are high, but honestly, the dinner gets off to a stuttering start. The waiter recommends white asparagus with Périgord truffles and Noir de Bigorre since mid-March is the only time of year when you can combine seasonal white asparagus _and_ truffles. However, the asparagus lacks a bit of flavor and is not quite as soft as I find them in Bordeaux come April. For want of a better word, they are a bit bland. The next dish is slightly better: calf’s brain with black butter and capers that have a lovely texture, though it does not ignite a flurry of superlatives and just looks a bit “messy”.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714144851259-bouchon+racine+snails_copy.JPG)

_Burgundy snails_

That all changes with the chicken liver pate with cornichons. This is what we had come for. Bring it on! Incredibly intense in flavor with a perfect texture, it instantly becomes the benchmark against which all future chicken liver pâtés will be judged and fail. Stunning. The half-dozen Burgundy snails are as good as any I have eaten in the Côte d’Or. I duly mop up the garlic and parsley sauce with a ripped-off chunk of bread.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714144893189-bouchon+racine+rabbit.JPG)

_Rabbit with mustard sauce and bacon_

Next, the rabbit with mustard sauce and bacon that, to a casual observer, looks a bit like a leg of chicken. No, this is definitely Bugs Bunny. It has a wonderful purity of flavor, while the mustard politely remains in the background so as not to overwhelm the nuances of the meat. The crispy bacon balances on top, lending saltiness. The sauce itself has just the right amount of tang, politely not overawing the rabbit.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714144918632-bouchon+racine+veal_copy.JPG)

_Best end of veal with morels and pomme mousseline_

The highlight of the meal arrives with a huge plate of the best end of veal chaperoned by morels in a pomme mousseline. Yes, yes, yes. This is heavenly. The veal is beautifully cooked and waltzes in perfect harmony with the generous helping of morels, the mousseline imparting subtle sweetness. It’s dishes like this that explain why getting a reservation is damn near impossible.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714144947544-bouchon+racine+dessert_copy.JPG)

_Pear and almond tart_

Finally, I opt for a pear and almond tart and Harris insists on a crème caramel. Both are excellent, though we are still starry-eyed over the previous main courses.

The wine list is printed on either side of an A4 sheet of paper, with a fairly eclectic selection from the Old and New World plus a smattering of blue chips. Prices are not cheap, but _where_ are they these days? We had pre-arranged to take our own fermented grape juice and pay corkage, though only because of our acquaintance with the proprietor.

We commence with two champagnes. The **1985 Comtes de Champagne Rosé** from **Taittinger** is superb. Burnished in hue, it has a potent, slightly oxidative bouquet with strawberry, grilled walnut, smoke and nougat. It’s quite arresting but utterly compelling. As you would expect, the palate is fully mature, underpinned by a brisk line of acidity. There is fine depth to this Sparkling Rosé, an arresting tang towards the finish with touches of nectarine and orange pith, all wrapped up with subtle strawberry notes. Uncompromisingly wonderful. The **1998 Blanc de Noirs Vieilles Vignes Françaises** from **Bollinger** is _à point_. With grilled hazelnuts and light _fumé_ notes on the nose, this is restrained at first but lets it rip given an hour in the glass. The palate has a compelling earthiness that is matched by an almost clinical line of acidity, deepening towards the finish that offers kernels of pine nuts and bitter lemon. It is not as complex or elegant as the millennial VVF but represents an intellectual sparkler.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714145063286-bouchon+racine+bollinger_copy.jpg)

It's not often one attends a dinner with a Rosé, but you always make an exception for one of Spain’s finest producers. The **2010 Rosado Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia** from **R. Lopez de Heredia** is an absolute gem. Matured for four years in American oak, it has an ethereal bouquet with hints of wild strawberry, crème fraiche, garrigues and lanolin. It is very complex compared to just about any other Rosé you could think of. The palate is crisp and pure, dancing on the tongue with real intensity. There’s a paradoxical weight, yet it feels like it’s walking on tiptoes, gently fanning out on the finish that has a touch of viscosity. The **2021 Noa Syrah** from **Rall Wines** is Donovan Rall’s contribution to the Cape Winemakers Guild auction. I reviewed its Chenin counterpart in a [previous report from South Africa](https://vinous.com/articles/the-a-to-z-of-south-africa-nov-2023). This is just as good: precocious blueberry and blackcurrant scents appear on the pure and seductive nose. It develops winsome floral aromas in the glass. The palate is primal with a touch of cassis, a perfect line of acidity and a velvety finish that has the bite to attract you back. It’s only just beginning to open, and personally, I’d afford it three or four more years.

The **1970 Ausone** is a revelation. I have drunk two bottles of this before, and as a cursory glance at the Vinous database shows, it pales against recent vintages, which is unsurprising given that this was not a golden era. At the time, the property was owned by Jean and Héylette Dubois, the former suffering long bouts of illness and their régisseur prone to excessively long durations in barrel. This is a completely different kettle of fish, practically a different wine to previous encounters. With a classic mature Right Bank nose, it is reminiscent of Cheval Blanc with intense black fruit, loam and cigar humidor aromas, all beautifully defined. The palate has exquisite balance and effortless flair, linear like the previous bottle, yet with so much more fruit. Were there multiple bottlings? I can’t think what else could explain its superiority for a wine that, lest we forget, a desultory 69 points from Robert Parker that was purportedly “drying out” back in 1987!

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1714145034870-racine+ausone.jpg)

Thanks to my connected friend, it had been a splendid evening at Bouchon Racine. I can now tick it off my list, though I would love to return. It is a restaurant that creates its own world, almost hermetically sealed off from the rest of London, so you soon forget you’re not actually in a riverside Lyon bistro but above a pub in central London. I fully understand why there’s a long queue of people desperate to grab a table, yet it’s far from the archetypal Michelin-starred restaurant. There’s a happy-go-lucky feel about the place that is quite contagious. While not every dish receives10/10, the highlights are memorable. Apart from [St John](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-st-john-lodon-united-kingdom-oct-2020), few places deliver nose-to-tail eating with such chutzpah.

I’ll be back…

One day.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Bouchon Racine, London, UK

Vinous Table: Bouchon Racine, London, UK (Apr 2024)

[The Progress](http://theprogress-sf.com/)

1525 Fillmore Street

San Francisco, CA 94115

+1 415 673 1294

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | APRIL 19, 2024

### The Food:

Caviar Potato Cloud

Hokkaido Scallop Crudo; Avocado, Pear, Pomegranate

Tierra Vegetables Masa Dumplings; Toma Cheese, Huiltacoche Crema

Radicchio & Persimmon; Aged Gouda, Turnip, Hazelnuts

Lightly Smoked Sweet Potatoes; Cauliflower Mushroom Conserva, Nuts, Seed

Bbq Half Duck; Peanut Fried Rice, Smoked Chile Vinegar

Clove Sugared Beignets; Honey Cocoa Ice Cream, Spiced Balsamic, Tart Cherries

Crème Fraîche Plum Swirl Ice Cream Cake; Maple Caramel, Gochujang Pecans

‘World Peace’ Peanut Milk

**The Wines:**

2020 Tyler Chardonnay Mae Estate 94

2009 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate 97

This fabulous dinner was a nice break from my recent tastings of new releases from Sonoma. COVID-19 disrupted so many routines, including what used to be frequent trips to San Francisco. As readers know, the city has changed in recent years as it grapples with deep economic and social issues. Even so, San Francisco is a city I love.

The Progress is located in the historic Fillmore District, just next to State Bird Provisions, which is also owned and operated by Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski. The spacious dining room with high ceilings occupies two floors and features simple but well-adorned tables. The restaurant is packed, and the vibe is energetic. I was surprised my friend was able to snag a reservation at the last minute. “I built a bot that searches for last-minute cancellations at all the restaurants I want to go to,” he told me. “It’s just for me and a few friends.” Of course. I have one of those, too. Well, not exactly.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713541952329-IMG_7299_copu+%281%29.jpg)

_Caviar Potato Cloud_

The menu is divided into three sections: Vegetables Mostly, Western Additions, and Fish and Meat Mains, all of which are focused on locally sourced ingredients. After a day of tasting, I don’t feel like making decisions, so we just order a number of dishes to try, an approach that works well as everything is served family style. The Caviar Potato Cloud, one of the signature dishes here, is a great way to start dinner. Spooning through the appropriately named potato cloud reveals a divine morsel of sweet, briny caviar. Hokkaido scallop crudo is something I could eat every day. Avocado lends texture, while pear and pomegranate add brightness and crunch. Divine. 

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713542102722-IMG_7328_copy.jpg)

_Hokkaido Scallop Crudo; Avocado, Pear, Pomegranate_

I don’t think I have ever had radicchio and persimmons before. It’s a combination that works beautifully in a hearty, rustic winter salad enhanced by aged gouda and hazelnuts. The masa dumplings, with bold, earthy flavors and distinct Mexican inflections, is another dish that hits the spot on this cold January evening.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713542138606-IMG_7339_copy.jpg)

_Radicchio & Persimmon; Aged Gouda, Turnip, Hazelnuts_

The Progress has a terrific wine program. Rebholz, Jolie-Laide, Cobb and Ca’ di Press are among the producers offered by the glass. Options by the bottle are wide-ranging. There are so many wines on this list I want to drink. For those who want to splurge, there are plenty of iconic bottles to choose from, most of them reasonably priced in today’s context. I must say, the cocktails look tempting, too. Ultimately, I go for something my friend is not familiar with, Tyler Chardonnay from the new Mae Estate in the Sta. Rita Hills. I have long believed that, despite the Pinot Noir craze, Chardonnay is the variety that is best suited for the Sta. Rita Hills. This wine, from a recently planted vineyard, shows why. Aromatic and deeply textured, the **2020 Chardonnay Mae Estate** captures all the dynamic, citrus and mineral-infused energy of Justin Willett’s new estate vineyard. Fabulous.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713542175728-IMG_7354_copy.jpg)

_Bbq Half Duck; Peanut Fried Rice, Smoked Chile Vinegar_

The piece de resistance arrives a few minutes after we send these plates back to the kitchen bare. It is the famed Bbq Half Duck, served with peanut-fried rice and smoked Chile vinegar. What can I say other than this is one of the most divine dishes I have eaten this year. The presentation of thinly sliced, perfectly cooked breast meat and whole leg is stunning, and yet that is only a prelude to the symphony of flavors and textures that reveal themselves with each bite. “I think I over-ordered,” my friend says. “Impossible,” I reply. Even so, readers should be warned the duck is a very generous portion, probably enough for an entire meal, although passing on the rest of the menu would be a crime. Smoked sweet potatoes on the side are an ideal accompaniment.

 ![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713543321141-TheProgress_Wines2.jpg)  
For the main course, I brought a bottle of **2009 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate** from my cellar. This is the pure Brunate, a wine the Rinaldis bottle for themselves and one longstanding private customer whom I have been fortunate to get to know over the years. I chose this wine because my dining companion has visited the estate, knows Barolo intimately, and has access to pretty much any wine he wants. But not this bottle. That, to me, is the joy of having a cellar. Being able to choose a wine someone else has never had and might never have. The 2009 is divine. I can’t say I am surprised, as a recent bottle was every bit as compelling. Soaring aromatics and bright, red-toned fruit are immediately alluring. In the glass, the 2009 displays uncanny freshness, especially for a fifteen-year-old Barolo from a warm, challenging vintage. This is pure and total seduction. The perfect wine for the right moment.

 ![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1713544110965-Clove+Sugared+Beignets+the+progress+vinous.jpg)

_Clove Sugared Beignets with Honey Cocoa Ice Cream, Spiced Balsamic and Tart Cherries lead this trio of delicious desserts._

Desserts are suitably rich. I devour them all, but it is hard to beat beignets, the ultimate comfort food, in my book. With that, I returned to my tastings in Sonoma. My friend climbed into a self-driving Waymo, one of several high-tech cars that made drop-offs and pickups nearby. It was quite a sight.

The Progress has a place in that very rare category of restaurants that are worth a trip alone. Food, service, wine and overall ambiance all get top marks. I can’t recommend it highly enough.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: The Progress, San Francisco, California

Vinous Table: The Progress, San Francisco, California (Apr 2024)

### [Gyo-kaijin](http://www.gyo-kaijin-urakatamachi.com/)

920-0981 Ishikawa

Kanazawa

Katamachi

2 Chome−2−25 1F

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 12, 2024

### The Food:

Assorted sashimi platter: sea urchin, squid, sea bream, tuna and king prawn

Blackthroat sea perch (nodoguro) with bonito flakes

Rice bran-pickled blowfish ovaries

Avocado with akegarashi mustard miso

Sauteed maitake and fried dried young sardines salad

Diced Noto pork cooked in Kagabocha tea

Figs with cream cheese

**The Wines:**

| Azuma Sake Brewery SEVEN Shinsen Junmai Ginjo Nama | 91 |
| Kiyoto Sake Brewery Kachikoma Junmai | 95 |
| Fumigiku Sake Brewery Haneya Shine Limited Namagenshu | 94 |

By the time you read this Vinous Table, [my end-of-year review](https://vinous.com/articles/2023-the-year-in-review-dec-2023) will be in the rearview mirror. This restaurant was the one I chose as my favorite meal of 2023, and it won simply because of the unsurpassed elation that the food and the place elicited. This is the place that I want to return to more than any other in Japan.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712930276050-counter+%281%29.jpg)

_The Gyo-kaijin counter_

What caused my euphoria? Cuisine aside, maybe it is partly because I enter with modest expectations. After all, it is a last-minute booking, having consulted the hotel receptionist in Kanazawa. I was not seeking the city’s best restaurant, but rather, if she could recommend anywhere half-decent within walking distance. It is also partly due to the restaurant’s lack of pretension, a virtue that appeals more and more, perhaps reflecting a more general move away from fussy gastronomy. Gyo-kaijin is down-to-earth without a trace of pomposity. Décor is no different to Japan’s countless local bars and _izakayas_: a wooden interior with bare varnished tables, a counter with a dozen or so seats overlooking a typically small but functional kitchen. I am instantly struck by the lively atmosphere, clusters of office workers loosening their ties, enjoying frothing beer and grub. As they become louder and crimson-cheeked, I wonder if they appreciate the quality of the food or whether they are inured to its excellence.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712929927501-menu+%281%29.jpg)

_The Gyo-kaijin menu_

Greatest hits from Billy Joel and Cindy Lauper play in the background as I take a ringside seat to watch the team of young, casually attired chefs in black t-shirts work together as a well-oiled machine under the discrete direction of the laconic but friendly head chef. Ornately-decorated, brightly-colored lacquerware from the Kutani-yaki pottery is neatly piled in columns along the counter. The menu is presented and, without asking, is offered in both English and Japanese, each with useful illustrations of every dish. Perhaps it gives the false impression that Gyo-kaijin is a step down in terms of culinary excellence, a mistake that many make coming to the country. “This is a restaurant where cool adults gather to have a ‘gorgeous feast’ in Kanazawa,” reads the menu’s introduction. I’m not sure about “cool adults”. But “gorgeous feast” is spot on.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712929954049-sashimi+platter+%281%29.JPG)

_Assorted sashimi platter: sea urchin, squid, sea bream, tuna and king prawn_

We commence with a sashimi platter and pause to bask in its presence. The luster of the raw fish indicates that these finned and tentacled ocean dwellers were swimming around mere hours ago. It is heavenly. Every mouthful elicits tears of pleasure. Deciding which slice to broach next is torturous as it means one less sashimi to savor. I’ve been privileged to eat sashimi from some of Japan’s most renowned establishments, and this ranks alongside the best. It’s the nonchalance that blows me away, served without airs and graces, sea urchin, squid, sea bream, tuna and king prawn, decorated with bonito flakes, lime, ribbons of daikon and freshly-shaved wasabi. This sashimi platter is my gustatory highlight of 2023, presented on exquisite lacquerware.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712929979248-nodoguro+%281%29.jpg)

_Blackthroat sea perch (nodoguro) with bonito flakes_

Next, a local specialty of blackthroat sea perch, known as _nodoguro_, is literally named after the black markings around its mouth. This fish is a native of the Sea of Japan and lurks 200m-300m beneath the waves, making it comparatively difficult to fish and is therefore highly prized. You will find it on many menus restaurants around Kanazawa and Japan’s north coast, plus high-end restaurants further afield. Don’t embellish this fish too much because you want to appreciate its sweet fattiness and oily texture. The bonito flakes are all that is necessary.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712930009810-blowfish+%281%29.JPG)

_Rice bran-pickled blowfish ovaries_

Next, blowfish ovaries that had been pickled in rice bran. Blowfish, or fugu, is Japan’s infamous poisonous delicacy and obliges specially-trained chefs to prepare it and avoid the mortuary slab. Every year, two or three people die from eating it. Fortunately, I was not one of them. This dish had an arresting, bitter, almost acrid tang that threatened to overwhelm the blowfish, a distinctive taste and texture I appreciated more after a few bites. It’s a flavor that you could learn to love.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712930036522-avocado+%281%29.JPG)

_Avocado with akegarashi mustard miso_

A straightforward dish follows: slices of avocado that are beautifully garnished with akegarashi mustard miso. Wonderful! Plus, there is no chance of death.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712930061708-maitake+%281%29.jpg)

_Sauteed maitake and fried dried young sardines salad_

Next is a divine dish of sautéed maitake mushrooms (aka hen of the woods) served with fried dried young sardines and salad. These are the most delicious fungi and seem impossible to buy here in the UK, even though they are inexpensive to buy in Japan. I’ve seen them served at some of London’s top restaurants, so they must be available somewhere. So nuanced in flavor, the maitake mushrooms are perfectly cooked and marry perfectly with the tiny sardines.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712930089749-pork+%281%29.JPG)

_Diced Noto pork cooked in Kagabocha tea_

The diced Noto pork is cooked in Kagabocha tea and is served on exquisite aquamarine lacquerware. This is packed full of flavor, the meat is tender and fleshy, and the skin is brittle and avoids any chewiness. Maybe with this dish, I should have ordered some rice to just tone down its intensity. Otherwise, it is absolutely delicious. We finish with fresh figs and cream cheese. The latter is served as a rabbit for reasons I never enquire about.

This is a restaurant where wine does not seem an ideal match, so Japanese sake is ordered. In hindsight, this was the night when my appreciation of sake clicked. If someone had offered a Montrachet, then I would have waved them away. The menu provides useful information on the variety of sake wines and the temperature at which they are served. The top of the page reads: “We have some hidden sake. Please ask the staff.”

I ask.

The **SEVEN Shinsen Junmai Gingo Nama** from the **Higashi Shuzo Sake Brewery** , founded in 1860 in Ishikawa, is so called because Yusuke Higashi is the seventh owner. Sales are limited to just seven stores. It is released in July, and seven is a lucky number in Japan. Served cold, this sake is all about purity of taste with no obvious flavors that leap out at you. It is equivalent to some of the neutral, low-intervention wines that I encounter in South Africa. There is a subtle resinous scent on the nose, perhaps a distant note of mountain pine. The palate is exquisitely balanced, fresh and slightly oily in texture. It is a perfect foil for the sashimi, cleansing the mouth with each sip.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712930117515-sake+glasses+%281%29.jpg)

_Two of the “hidden sake” bottles posing with the ornate glassware in which it was served._

Now for two of the “hidden sake” offered by the owner, to which I say, _arigato gozaimasu_.

The **Kachikoma Junmai Nama** was the first limited sake bottling from the **Kiyoto Sake Brewery** in Takaoka City in the Toyama Prefecture, founded in 1897 and registered as a cultural property in 2000. Production is limited because this sake is handmade by just five brewers from Gohyakumangoku rice, which is 50% polished. Served cold, the bouquet is complex with hints of dried banana skin and Anjou pear. Like the SEVEN sake, the palate is all about umami sensation, fresh and lively but with real depth, just a very slight bitterness imparting tension on the oily-textured finish. The **Haneya Shine Limited Namagenshu** comes from the **Fumigiku Sake Brewery** in Toyama, founded in 1916, using water from the Joganji River that flows from the 3,000-meter mountains. Again, this is an artisan operation. Slightly more aromatic on the nose, there was a hint of rosewater and yellow fruit. The palate is slightly more viscous in texture yet with ample freshness and weight on the finish. It’s all about the umami, and it is absolutely delicious.

Gyo-kaijin encapsulates everything life-affirming about Japan’s dining scene. It is inexpensive, has impeccable service, a lively ambiance and, most of all, a standard of cuisine that you have to eat to believe. It was a serendipitous discovery, but knowing Japan as I do, I recognize that there were probably half a dozen other establishments lurking around the corner that would blow my mind and my tastebuds in a similar fashion.

Next time.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Gyo-kaijin, Kanazawa, Japan

Vinous Table: Gyo-kaijin, Kanazawa, Japan (Apr 2024)

### Kanazawa Setsuri

4-5 Takaokamachi

Kanazawa

Ishikawa 920-0864

Japan

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 11, 2024

### The Food:

Grilled squid with dashi, Japanese basil

Baby spring fish [ayu] with Tosazu vinegar sauce

Red sea bream, rice and caviar

Savory egg custard with matsutake, lily bulb and Bottarga sherbet

Pike conger [hamo], shirakami awabitake mushroom, lemon, asparagus, pickled plum paste served in Wajima lacquerware

Light smoked wild caught tuna, Botan shrimp from Shinminato with submerged Shijo flower

Long-tooth grouper, Neon flying squid, bottarga Sudachi citrus fruit with Hokkaido shima shrimp

Abalone with steamed Kombu in a dashi broth

Stewed and shallow-fried Kamon aubergine with horseradish.

Noto beef, pike conger and leek

Nukazuke: mizunasu, kiwi and yellow courgette

Somen with sea urchin in Kaga cucumber, shredded okra

Beef curry

Yamanashi watermelon, local peach, Shine moscato with Earl Grey jelly and gold leaf

**The Wine:**

2017 Vincent Bachelet Chassagne-Montrachet Village 89

Kanazawa lies on Japan’s northern coastline, a little more than a couple of hours on the bullet train from Tokyo. Kanazawa is well worth the trip for two main reasons. Firstly, you can tour the famous Kenroku-en, considered one of Japan’s three most beautiful national gardens, draped over 11.4 idyllic hectares in the center of the city, featuring tranquil ponds, tea houses and obligatory pagodas or two. Secondly, Kanazawa boasts a smorgasbord of fabulous places to dine. The gustatory highlight during my entire stay in Japan was not in Tokyo or Kyoto but in this city. The first night, I booked two seats at the Michelin-starred Kanazawa Setsuri, which, by chance, was located just a five-minute walk from my hotel. One advantage of moving out of the Tokyo metropolis is that it’s far easier to get around and reach destinations. Like many places, the restaurant is located in a plain two-story building, so discrete that I spent several minutes searching on Google Maps before realizing I was standing outside its front door.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712862288664-setsuri+exterior.JPG)

_I wanted to convey the anonymity of many restaurants in Japan. Consider that behind this door lies one of Kanazawa’s notable chefs. We stood outside for several minutes before working out that this was the destination._

The interior is your typical Japanese _kappo_ restaurant, a broad term that means the chef is in close proximity to their customers. It is spartanly furnished: a small counter for seven people plus a private room. A wide-screen television hangs behind the counter depicting rotating images of clichéd Japanese landscape, which seemed a bit superfluous. Setsuri is popular with locals. On this particular evening, our fellow diners are three retired female doctors on their annual pilgrimage to Setsuri, plus a group of suited salarymen in the private room who keep disappearing outside for cigarettes, to the chagrin of the chef. There is one compulsory multi-course menu determined by what is in season and what can be found at the market that day. Yasuo Kawada came to prominence after competing in Japan’s version of _Iron Chef_ and later TV program _Jonetsu Tairiku_. His previous restaurant, Kaiseki Tsuruko, was awarded two Michelin stars before closing its doors in 2018, reopening in late 2019 and duly renamed. With the famous Omicho market barely a few minutes' walk away, Kawada sources all his ingredients from the most trustworthy brokers with whom he has established long-term relationships, buying according to how he feels on the day. Kawada refreshingly shuns the solemnity of some of Japan’s chef-cum-gods, chatty and amiable, cracking jokes along the way to create a relaxed atmosphere. He’s here to entertain, not just cook.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712862330070-setsuri+squid.JPG)

_Grilled squid with dashi, Japanese basil_

Readers should note that neither Kawada nor his assistant speak English. That does not seem to prevent you from reserving a seat, though just bear that in mind and maybe see if you can go with a Japanese speaker.

It's worth it. The food is wonderful.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712862369705-setsuri+spring+fish.JPG)

_Baby spring fish [ayu] with Tosazu vinegar sauce_

We commence with grilled squid with dashi and Japanese basil [õba]. The squid is chilled right down to act as a palate freshener. The consistency of the squid is so spot on. The flavors are so pure and, for want of a better word, energetic that it sets you up perfectly for what follows.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712862455812-setsuri+sea+bream.JPG)

_Red sea bream, rice and caviar_

The baby spring fish [ayu] is doused with Tosazu vinegar sauce, a mixture of vinegar, soy and rice wine together with soup stock from dried bonito. As you can see from the photograph, I had to pause and admire the remarkable bowls and plates, original pieces of Kutani-ware, noted for their vivid dark hues. As usual, you eat the fish whole, from head to tail, and this example delivers just the right amount of crunch and salinity. The sauce is subtle in flavor and allows the nuanced fish to shine.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712862490529-setsuri+egg+custard.JPG)

_Savory egg custard with matsutake, lily bulb and Bottarga sherbet_

The next dish is served on a small shell-like plate comprising red sea bream, rice and caviar. Very subtle in flavor, the caviar lends just the right amount of salinity. Hot on its heels, a bowl of savory egg custard is served with matsutake mushrooms, lily bulb and Bottarga sherbet and then, pike conger [hamo] from Seto Naikai (the inland body of water that separates the islands of Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu). This came with Shirakami Awabitake mushroom, a mixture of Trumpet mushroom and Chinese Abalone mushroom foraged from Akita in northern Japan, lemon sourced from Hiroshima and asparagus from Nagano with a pickled plum paste. This is all presented in Wajima lacquerware from Ishikawa. Divine.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712862527019-setsuri+tuna.JPG)

_Light smoked wild caught tuna, Botan shrimp from Shinminato with submerged Shijo flower_

The next dish consists of lightly-smoked wild-caught tuna and Botan shrimp from Shinminato, a rare species now only found off the coast of southern Japan. It comes with Shijõ flowers set in clear jelly, optional lime and wasabi on the side. This just needs a light drizzling of lime because the succulent shrimps explode with flavor once popped into the mouth. Kawada then serves long-tooth grouper [known as “ara” in Kyushu, where it is a highly prized fish], and Neon Flying squid, a species that, as the name suggests, can actually fly using a kind of jet propulsion. This had been left in the fridge for two days. It comes with a slice of bottarga Sudachi, a Japanese native citrus fruit and Shima shrimp from Hokkaido that Kawada meunièrs in a Japanese style. The shrimp is exceptionally sweet with a slightly gooey texture that effortlessly partners with the Sudachi.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712862579612-setsuri+grouper.JPG)

_Long-tooth grouper, Neon flying squid, bottarga Sudachi citrus fruit with Hokkaido shima shrimp_

The abalone comes from the Noto peninsular and is presented in an oyster shell with steamed Kombu, which is edible kelp, and a light dashi broth. The abalone is very tender and flavorsome. The kelp imparts salinity and texture, while a small Shiso leaf lends a touch of pepperiness.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712862635649-setsuri+abalone.JPG)

_Abalone with steamed Kombu in a dashi broth_

After a shallow-fried Kamon aubergine sourced from Kyoto, the sukiyaki dish contains thinly sliced beef from Noto, pike conger and small leeks from Kujõ. The beef has a natural richness and melt-in-your-mouth consistency, blending perfectly with the pike conger and giving a bite by the leeks. It is a perfect combination.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712862661866-setsuri+beef.JPG)

_Noto beef, pike conger and leek_

The next dish is a trip back in time. The small bowl of pickled vegetables and fruit, known as nukazuke, derives from 17th century Japan when food was preserved by fermenting them in rice bran [nuka]. Ours had been fermented over three days and comprised of kiwi fruit, yellow courgette and mizunasu. This translates as “water eggplant” and comes from Senshu in the southern extremity of the Osaka prefecture. As its name suggests, it tends to contain higher water content and is sweeter than regular eggplant, to the point where many people eat it raw.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712862758125-setsuri+noodles.JPG)

_Somen with sea urchin in Kaga cucumber, shredded okra_

The somen noodles arrive in a hollowed-out Kaga cucumber, in the middle of which is sea urchin topped with shredded okra. The noodles are cooled and refreshing. The sea urchin has perfect consistency and is delicately lifted by the okra.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712862803719-setsuri+curry.JPG)

_Beef curry_

Kawada has a trick up his sleeve, a bit of a joke, serving what might be considered a basic beef curry dish. The beef had been frozen and then stewed over three days. I’ve devoured Japanese curry countless times, though none had such an impact of flavor, every mouthful savored. I could have polished off three or four bowls. To finish, Yamanashi watermelon with locally-picked peach with Earl Grey jelly and gold leaf.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712862820580-setsuri+fruit.JPG)

_Yamanashi watermelon, local peach, Shine moscato with Earl Grey jelly and gold leaf_

The one downside of such restaurants, even those with a Michelin star like Kanazawa Setsuri, is that wines are often given short shrift. This is understandable. With such a small number of covers, few can afford or risk stocking a vast range of wines, notwithstanding there just isn’t the space. We select the **2017 Chassagne-Montrachet** from **Vincent Bachelet** , an unfamiliar grower but hailing from a vintage where the Burgundy whites excelled. It fits the occasion perfectly. Orchard fruit and light resin scents appear on a nose that is quite immediate, simple, yet focused. The palate delivers the weight one expects from this appellation. The cooler vintage heightens the acidity, and pineapple and lime come through on the unpretentious finish.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712862839209-setsuri+wine_copy.JPG)

It is easy to see why Kanazawa Setsuri is a popular local haunt. Sure, the food is absolutely top-notch, in a different league to what I find in the UK, even at exalted prices. The precision here is breathtaking. But what I really appreciate is the bonhomie of Kawada San and his assistant. They made it a dinner that was “fun." I just wish my Japanese was better so that I could have understood the wisecracks that had our doctor friends in stitches. Prices are very reasonable compared to overseas, partly because of the weak Japanese yen, sitting at just over ¥20,000 per person.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Kanazawa Setsuri, Kanazawa, Japan

Vinous Table: Kanazawa Setsuri, Kanazawa, Japan (Apr 2024)

### Takasegawa

260-4 Nishikiyamachi-dori

Matsubaraagaru

3 Chome Ichinocho,

Kyoto-shi

Shimogyo-ku

Kyoto, Japan

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 10, 2024

### The Food:

Seasonal appetizer box: ayu (spring fish), Kyoto aubergine, salmon with miso, octopus, abalone, nori

Clear soup with chicken and namafu (wheat gluten)

Tuna sashimi with wasabi and shiso leaf

Yakitori skewers: Omi chicken thigh, breast and skin with soy sauce

Wagyu beef cutlet with tomato, soy and Daitokuji natto sauce

Sea bream soup chazuke with dashi

Mascarpone cheese and honey meringue

**The Wine:**

Miyao Brewing Company (Niigata) Shimeharitsuru Jun Junmai Gingo Sake 93

As mentioned in [my primer](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-japan-gastronomy-a-primer-apr-2024), you can spend endless hours planning the ultimate gastronomic tour. Lo and behold, the gustatory high point is an unplanned visit to an unknown restaurant that whispered into your ear as you nonchalantly walked past its door: “Discover me. Or you’ll regret it for the rest of your life!”

It’s happened countless times. This sojourn was no different. Allow me to set the scene. It is a sultry Sunday, and I’d spent a thoroughly enjoyable, if fruitless, day flitting between Kyoto’s vinyl emporiums and Buddhist shrines. Feeling peckish, I walk down the famous Kiyamachi-dori, a narrow pathway that follows the Kano River. Illuminated by suspended lanterns and flanked by higgledy-piggledy wooden buildings, it evokes a scene from a Miyazaki animation. I feel spirited away. The choice of places to eat is endless. Every building accommodates a restaurant catering to every facet of Japanese cuisine, from Michelin-starred temples to touristic noodle bars. However, on the eve of the Goin festival, the passageway heaves with tourists. So, I venture further south past Kawaramachi Station and along the Takase River until I reach Shimoguyamachi. My nose starts twitching, and I am pulled towards the opposite side of the stream to a simple doorway where I read the wooden inscription…

Takasegawa.

“Discover me!” it whispers. “Come inside!”

Heeding the call, I peer behind the hanging noren curtains and look upon a small counter with two empty stools. A young, aproned girl appears, and I enquire if they are taken.

“_Dõzo_. Please, take a seat,” she gestures against expectations and pulls out a stool.

One of the culinary highlights of my trip to Japan is about to unfold.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712764986219-takesegawa+chef_copy.jpg)

_The chefs running the show at Takesegawa_

Type “Takasegawa” into a search engine, and you’ll see it classed as a “yakitori” restaurant. This is a bit of a misnomer. It’s more of an upmarket counter-bar restaurant offering a seasonal _omakase_ menu selected on the day by Chef Moto. It’s a two-person operation, just Moto and the young lady charged with greeting customers, pouring drinks, washing up and prepping whenever necessary. I adore the interior. The setting is everything you want. Overlooking the Takase, it comprises a six-seat counter that looks directly over the bijou kitchen so diners can observe every turn of the skewer and every slice of sashimi. Part of the joy is watching the interplay between the chef and his right-hand-woman – there is barely a divide between them and their customers. Another part of the pleasure of being seated at the counter is conversing with strangers, though, of course, it depends on the quality of the stranger. Tonight, my diners-in-arms are an amiable Montreal-based Korean family…

“Whenever I come to Kyoto, this is the first place that I book,” the mother enthuses, barely concealing her excitement to be here, handing her son an iPad to keep him occupied. Lucky lad. I was eating fish fingers and chips at his age.

Chef Moto doesn’t speak English, but his assistant speaks enough to get by without too much trouble, notwithstanding the fact that an English menu is provided. The dozen or so drinks are written in Katakana script that I can read myself, but your smartphone will be able to translate them. A seasonal appetizer box is offered for ¥3,500, which you can augment à la carte if you wish. I opt for the appetizer box and take barely two mouthfuls before requesting to upgrade to the chef’s ¥8,500 omakase menu. This is an astonishing monetary value for the quality of cooking and ingredients.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712765015997-takesegawa+box_copy.jpg)

_Seasonal appetizer box: ayu (spring fish), Kyoto aubergine, salmon with miso, octopus, abalone, nori_

The appetizer box includes grilled ayu or spring fish. This one is less bitter than the ayu served the day before at [Tempura Matsu](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-tempura-matsu-kyoto-japan-apr-2024). The aubergine, picked locally in Kyoto, was sweeter compared to others that I have tasted in Japan and needed no seasoning. The two mouthfuls of tako (octopus) are beautifully seasoned and complemented by a sweet soy dressing and salmon sashimi with miso - tender and refined. The abalone offers pleasing chewiness but is not rubbery, cooked to the exact millisecond.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712765043281-takesegawa+soup_copy.jpg)

_Clear soup with chicken and namafu (wheat gluten)_

The first course consists of a clear soup that is exquisitely seasoned, given just the right amount of edge thanks to the judicious use of rice vinegar. It is enhanced by chicken and namafu or wheat gluten, which tastes a bit like mochi, though softer. Meguro or tuna sashimi follows, paler in hue as it should be, with a melt-in-the-mouth consistency. I wrap mine in shiso leaf and just a dab of wasabi in the soy sauce since I find Kyoto wasabi less potent. Of course, it is freshly ground, and maybe that just takes out the sting.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712765068778-takesegawa+yakitori_copy.jpg)

_Yakitori skewers: Omi chicken thigh, breast and skin with soy sauce_

Meanwhile, Chef Moto has three types of chicken yakitori sizzling over coals: thigh, breast and skin. Here, the chef uses Omi Shamo chicken, which is known for its heightened flavor and elasticity of the skin. My preference is for the sweet soy sauce rather than salted. I must confess, though I love crispy chicken skin, I’ve never felt it quite works as a yakitori.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712765096440-takesegawa+beef_copy.jpg)

_Wagyu beef cutlet with tomato, soy and Daitokuji natto sauce_

One of the highlights is a wagyu beef cutlet covered with panko served with tomato, soy and Daitokuji natto sauce. This is commonly available in Japan and can be found in department stores, though it came from the Daitoku-ji temple itself. It imparts an irresistibly rich and relatively salty flavor, and the beef has a melting consistency that you can only find in Japan.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712765124077-takesegawa+chazuke.jpg)

_Sea bream soup chazuke with dashi_

The sea bream soup chazuke with dashi is next. Chazuke is a simple rice dish, usually topped with fish, over which Chef pours either a dashi or green tea (“cha” means tea in Japanese and “tsuke” is to submerge). This is absolutely divine. The sea bream is mouth-wateringly tender and delicately seasoned with sesame, wasabi and radish. The dashi, again, is unbelievably nuanced.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712765153883-takesegawa+dessert.jpg)

_Mascarpone cheese and honey meringue_

Dessert almost seems superfluous to requirements, yet the mascarpone cheese and honey meringue are to die for.

This is definitely an occasion when wine just feels out of place. Upon their recommendation, I opt for sake. Shimeharitsuru Jun is a Junmai Ginjo using Gohyakumangoku rice with a polishing ratio of 50%. It is produced by the Miyao Brewing Company, established in 1819 in Murakami City in Niigata, renowned for the quality of its rice and the natural soft water of the Miomote River. It is the perfect foil for the dishes, with a more neutral aroma and touches of linseed oil developing with aeration. The palate has weight in the mouth yet is relatively lighter in style, more about texture than overt flavors so that the Japanese dishes could shine. There is a clarity/focus to this sake that makes it easy to drink, and readers should note that it is inexpensive and exported to the United States.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712765344541-takesegawa+sake_copy.jpg)

Takesegawa epitomizes everything that makes Japan such a special, unique place to dine. The care afforded to every dish is evident by observing the chef and the flavors in the mouth. It’s the kind of place that you fall in love with and, like my fellow diner, you vow to return to every time you go back to Kyoto. It embraces several aspects of traditional Japanese cuisine and delivers them all with simplicity and nuance. I end up paying less for the entire meal than a single course in some of London’s over-priced restaurants. If you are in Kyoto, take a peek behind the noren curtains and treat yourself.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Takasegawa, Kyoto, Japan

Vinous Table: Takasegawa, Kyoto, Japan (Apr 2024)

### Tempura Matsu (天ぷら松)

21-26 Umezu Onawabacho

Ukyo Ward

Kyoto

615-0925

Japan

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 09, 2024

### The Food:

Boiling black squid with dashi

Sea bream in aubergine and rice vinegar sauce

Squid and sea bream sashimi

Black Throat Sea Perch sushi

Horsehair crab

Fatty tuna with sesame dressing on rice

Grilled eel

Assorted tempura: scallop, lotus root, king prawn, okra, silverfish and finally, onion

Cold soba with egg yolk served in a block of ice

Roast tea ice cream

**The Wine:**

2018 Domaine Servin Chablis Les Pargues 87

Tempura Matsu is located on the western fringe of Kyoto towards Arashiyama and overlooks the Katsura River, beyond which lies Japan’s deeply forested, mountainous interior. This part of Kyoto is less touristic, although it attracts gourmands visiting nearby Kitcho, one of the country’s triple-starred restaurants. Shunichi Matsuno established Tempura Matsu in 1973 as a tempura bar, and it remains a family concern. The reins have now passed to his son, Toshio, who completed stints with Alain Ducasse and Grant Achatz before working alongside his father. The restaurant gained renown after being featured in travel writer Matt Goulding’s book _Rice, Noodle, Fish_.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712671258721-tempura+matsu+exterior_copy.jpg)

_The Tempura Matsu exterior_

The restaurant is easy to find using a Smartphone. It occupies a two-story black and white building that is not dissimilar to a residential house. Its purpose is given away by the chefs visible, prepping away through the front window. Like many places in Japan, it is bijou in size, with seven counter seats (where I like to be seated), a couple of booths and a private room. The décor is cozy, homely and simple, with large oak beams and traditional lanterns dangling from the ceiling. It is a place that feels lived-in, timeless in some ways.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712671316939-tempura+matsu+chef_copy.jpg)

_The Tempura Matsu chef_

Taking my seat, I notice rudimentary equipment in the kitchen. A tempura frier is located by the window. Toshio Matsuno is readying himself for lunch that day, deftly slicing squid into tiny ribbons with a knife that may have been forged by Hattaro Hanzõ himself (Tarantino fans will get the reference). Some of the equipment looks as if it might be decades old. The maître d’, who I find very hospitable and speaks a few words of English, is actually Shunichi’s mother.

I am dining alone without the aid of my Japanese wife-cum-translator. My basic understanding of the language helps, and the dishes recounted in this Vinous Table were translated by myself and scribbled down in my notebook as lunch unfolded, so apologies if anything is lost in translation! I believe you should get along fine if your Japanese goes no further than “Arigato”. One notable aspect of Tempura Matsu is their use of antique ceramics or _oribe ware_, renowned for its vivid colors. Some of Matsu’s chinaware dates back 300 years.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712671444632-tempura+matsu+squid_copy.jpg)

_Boiling black squid with dashi_

Before describing the dishes, I must point out that its name is misleading because, despite the restaurant’s name, tempura is just one part of a multi-course _kaiseki_ menu, of which there are three options between 15,000 to 25,000 Yen per person. That is definitely on the expensive side, though no more than elsewhere you would find at this level. The cooking here is deceptively straightforward, quintessentially Japanese. The only frill is the carved block of ice used to cradle the noodles, but otherwise, the menu abides by the idea of fresh, meticulously sourced ingredients expertly prepared in front of customers and presented with minimum fuss. There is nothing conspicuously flamboyant at Tempura Matsu, no fireworks or pretension. This is all about subtle flavors that gently build throughout the dozen or so courses that somehow match the vista of the countryside visible through the window.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712671437031-tempura+matsu+aubergine_copy.jpg)

_Sea bream in aubergine and rice vinegar sauce_

The first course is served. Chef deftly slices a small black squid and pops it into an octagonal dish. It’s patently so hot that I don’t even attempt that ritual of wetting my finger to double-check (don’t we all do that?). He pours in a dashi that instantaneously bubbles like a cauldron about to froth over, then adds a sprinkle of powdered ginger and advises me to mix the contents. It’s a delicious, if a low-key starter. I foolishly make the mistake of spooning some rice from the sides that are so hot that it scalds my mouth. Idiot.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712671512289-tempura+matsu+sea+perch_copy.jpg)

_Black Throat Sea Perch sushi_

The second dish is divine. It is comprised of a small wedge of sea bream topped with crisp bonito flakes that sit in a pool of aubergine and rice wine vinegar sauce seasoned with sweet red Japanese pickles. The sea bream is flanked by a lightly fried slice of aubergine to mop up the remainder of the sauce once I’ve finished with the fish. The sauce is dreamy – perfectly balanced, delicate yet so focused in flavor. The pickles lend piquancy. What’s Japanese for “more please”? Too late! The next course beckons. It is a simple yet extraordinary sashimi dish of squid aged for three days and sliced into wafer-thin ribbons in front of customers’ eyes. Let me state for the record: this is the most mind-blowing squid that I’ve ever eaten. It explodes in slow motion in the mouth and mischievously encourages chewing as slowly as possible without dribbling everywhere. All it requires is a judicious dab of sweet Japanese soy to set it off. The squid is dipped into a ponzu and spring onion dressing, that steals the limelight from the accompanying raw sea bream.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712671577291-tempura+matsu+crab_copy.jpg)

_Horsehair crab_

The fourth serving is a sushi roll of black throat sea perch served on warm rice with a dab of wasabi that is ground right in front of my eyes. I am advised to pop it into my mouth. It’s so subtle in flavor, a gentle, almost teasing crescendo before it’s down the gullet. You register the sea perch’s fattiness and sweetness in hindsight. Can I ask for another, just to check? No, the following course is hot on its heels.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712671616859-tempura+matsu+tuna_copy.jpg)

_Fatty tuna with sesame dressing on rice_

The next course consists of a rare and super-expensive horsehair crab encased in its shell and served in a clarified consommé. I follow orders to drink the consommé first and then crack the shell so the crab infuses and alters its texture and consistency. I notice how the crab is intermixed with shards of fluffy potato. It’s delicious, though part of me feels that the nuanced flavor of the crab is diluted away. I use my chopsticks to pick out morsels of crab that have yet to disintegrate.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712671659278-tempura+matsu+eel_copy.jpg)

_Grilled eel_

Up next is one of my favorites: slices of pale tuna with just the right fattiness, the type that just melts in your mouth, served with a sesame dressing, sesame seeds and Japanese nori over a bed of rice. It’s a perfect combination, layer upon layer of gorgeous flavors. Chef prudently ensures that the sesame does not overpower the delicacy of the tuna. Insert the superlative of your choice.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712673221818-tempura+matsu+scallop+tempura_copy.jpg)

_Scallop tempura_

The seventh course comprises two miniature slices of eel, caught in Lake Biwa on the other side of Kyoto, where I had completed a ParkRun that morning, procured at the market three hours earlier and served with a thickened soy sauce. These are cooked over charcoal and charred to lend a subtle acrid note that counterbalances the sauce's sweetness. It works wonderfully, although once slice comes dangerously close to being excessively charred.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712673235664-tempura+matsu+prawn+tempura_copy.jpg)

_King prawn tempura_

Given the restaurant's title, one would depart disappointed if there is no tempura. One of the more senior chefs is in charge of the frier. He has a stoic expression and doesn’t engage in light-hearted conversation. He’s on a mission. He serves tempura in the order of scallop, lotus root, king prawn, okra, silverfish and finally, onion tempura. The latter is gently battered for 30 minutes, so it just melts in the mouth. It’s wonderful. The batter is quite thin, but not so gossamer thin that you cannot enjoy its flavor.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712671803712-tempura+matsu+udon_copy.jpg)

_Cold soba with egg yolk served in a block of ice_

Then, Tempura Matsu’s signature dish, their pièce de résistence: soba served in a cold dashi broth, and an egg yolk ingeniously served in a hollowed block of ice that keeps it cold and refreshing. The soba might well be the best I have eaten; it is just so full of flavor and perfectly marries the dashi. It looks amazing, yet it is deceptively simple.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712671847056-tempura+matsu+ice+cream_copy.jpg)

_Roast tea ice cream_

We finish with roast tea ice cream. The flavor of the tea comes through quite strongly. Its seduction is heightened by the fact that it’s probably 36 or 37 degrees outside.

The wine list is pretty rudimentary, but prices are not too bad. I am here more for the food than the fermented grape juice, so I order a bottle of **2018 Chablis Les Pargues** from **Domaine Servin**. Like many in this vintage, it cannot disguise its tropical nose with passion fruit and melon but retains satisfying delineation. The palate displays fine weight with some fatness that might displeasure purists seeking more traditional Chablis. Perfect for drinking now. I would not cellar it for a long time. However, I must mention the homemade sparkling plum juice. This was absolutely divine, fresh, pure and packed with flavor. Do try it.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712671909850-tempura+matsu+chablis_copy.jpg)

The Michelin guide has not recognized Tempura Matsu. It is rather a Kyoto institution that attracts locals and those piqued by Goulding’s aforementioned book. As I mentioned before, there is something timeless about this restaurant that foments from its half-century of history, its rustic, almost tavern-like interior and its straightforward dishes. Some of the courses, such as the squid sashimi, the aubergine sauce and the soba, are outstanding. The series of tempura is delicious, yet I would say that none strike me as mindboggling. Overall, it is an excellent lunch. In terms of value, some might consider a little on the high side, but there is no doubting the lengths that they go to sourcing ingredients. I should forewarn that Tempura Matsu does not accept cards here, so make sure you bring cash.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Tempura Matsu, Kyoto, Japan

Vinous Table: Tempura Matsu, Kyoto, Japan (Apr 2024)

### Koumoto

106-0047

5-1-10 Minamiazabu,

Minato-ku, Tokyo, Japan

(nearest Metro is Hirõ)

BY NEAL MARTIN | APRIL 08, 2024

### The Food:

Kyoto unpressed tofu with wasabi leaf, homemade tuna with Indian spinach and pickled plum, boiled and seasoned Okinawan spinach, eel and cucumber salad and whelks

Ginjo karasumi soba

Seasonal sashimi

Charcoal grilled sweet fish

Grilled fillet of Hida beef

Seasonal vegetable with prawn tempura

Handmade soba noodles

Cold peach shiruko soup

**The Wines:**

| NV Billecart-Salmon Brut Rosé |
| 2008 Viña Errázuriz Don Maximiano | 90 |
| 2008 d’Armailhac | 91 |
| 1989 Calera Pinot Noir Jensen Vineyard | 93 |
| 1975 Batailley | 90 |
| 1976 Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon Estate | 96 |

Everyone’s career begins somewhere, a sliding door moment when an opportunity presents itself. Grab it, or else life will switch to another track. The door slid open for this writer in June 1996 when interviewed for an administrative position at Japan Airlines. I would be responsible for wine and paper cups, so who knows, I might have become king of the paper cup industry in an alternate universe. It doesn’t quite have the same ring as “wine writer”. Anyway, having feigned expertise in fermented grape juice at the interview, I stumbled into a wine career as its most unqualified entrant. That didn’t prevent me from being bitten by the wine bug. You know the rest of the story.

I have never forgotten the opportunity that my first job presented, not least, my Japanese colleagues. Robert Parker quite correctly insisted I quit the role to avoid conflicts of interest, though I could stay in touch. A lot of water has passed under the bridge during the 18 years since. All but one in the wine department has retired or gone on to new pastures. Nevertheless, on my second night in Tokyo last summer, I arranged to meet my former JAL colleague, Hiro. I predictably found myself aimlessly wandering Minamiazabu in the vain hope of locating our rendezvous. Koumoto is so hidden away that even Google Maps admits defeat and begins suggesting findable alternatives. Pre-empting this situation, I spot Hiro, who guessed I would be lost and guides me down a secluded passage. If Koumoto was staring me directly in the face, I still would have no chance of finding it. Its façade is anonymous, just showing small signage in Japanese script. Only upon entering do you realize that you are entering an epicurean wonderland, something that happens constantly in Japan.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712597166856-koumoto+starters_copy.jpg)

_Kyoto unpressed tofu with wasabi leaf, homemade tuna with Indian spinach and pickled plum, boiled and seasoned Okinawan spinach, eel and cucumber salad and whelks_

The interior is divided into different-sized private rooms, catering for two to about twenty persons, each spartanly furnished in a traditional style. Thankfully guests sit on chairs rather than cross-legged on the floor. Dishes are brought in one by one. As a reintroduction to the unmatchable heights of Japanese cuisine after a five-year absence, Koumoto is perfect. The restaurant is famed for its soba, although every dish exudes subtle seasonal flavors, impeccable sourcing of ingredients and serves as a guided tour through traditional Japanese cuisine.

The five-way starter sets the tone: unpressed tofu from Kyoto with wasabi leaf, homemade tuna with Indian spinach and pickled plum, boiled and seasoned Okinawan spinach, eel and cucumber salad and whelks, each served in unique lacquerware. The eel is magnificent. Just one mouthful popped into the mouth delivers a satisfying depth of flavor. The tuna is also exceptional, a stunning marriage of flavors lent zest by the pickled plum. These starters are paradoxically subtle yet intense, readying the senses for the delights that follow.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712597193000-koumoto+ginjo+soba_copy.jpg)

_Ginjo karasumi soba_

The Ginjo karasumi soba is a blend of 90% buckwheat and 10% wheat flour and is delicately curled into a ball. Karasumi is a bit like bottarga, essentially dried mullet roe that is dried in sunlight, a delicacy one sees often in Taiwan. These soba are slightly richer in flavor. The rose imparts salinity and a slight bitterness. It is a perfect foil to the Chilean wine (see below).

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712597218844-koumoto+sashimi_copy.jpg)

_Seasonal sashimi_

Next comes a divine plate of seasonal sashimi that is so beautifully presented it feels sacrilegious to dismantle it with my chopsticks. The tuna is iridescent and fresh, while the sea bream and mackerel are as pure and saline as you will find. Heavenly.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712597265796-koumoto+sweetfish_copy.jpg)

_Charcoal grilled sweet fish_

One of my favorites arrives: charcoal-grilled sweet fish that came from the Tenryu River in central Honshu, Japan’s main island. This is slightly too big to eat whole, head ‘n all, as is custom, but after a couple of mouthfuls, it is gone. This is one of the best examples that I have encountered in Japan. Again, it is intense and pure in flavor, with almost arresting salinity and slightly bitter. Perhaps this was the one dish calling out for a white wine, maybe a slightly oxidized Jura or Vouvray?

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712597295994-koumoto+gifu+beef_copy.jpg)

_Grilled fillet of Hida beef_

The sublime meat dish comprises a grilled fillet of Hida beef. These black-haired calves are bred in the Gifu prefecture on the foothills of the Japanese Northern Alps, one of Japan’s most revered breeds renowned for its marbling that must be graded A or B by Hida Beef Brand Promotion Conference. Though the breed has inhabited Japan for centuries, it only became famous in 1981 when a cattle breeder found that a bull named Yasafuku had the perfect genetic composition to create the highest quality marbling throughout all cuts of the animal. Since then, 39,000 offspring have come from this one bull, now as coveted as the finest Kobe beef. It is fabulous. Just one mouthful is so subtle, juicy and melting in the mouth. It needed minimal accoutrements: Japanese salt, tomato and grilled mange tout. Such is the flavor of the meat, I opt not to season it.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712598167885-koumoto+tempura_copy.jpg)

_Seasonal vegetable with prawn tempura_

Next comes the tempura, prawn and aubergine. The batter is light and delicate, not too oily. The prawn is succulent and sweet.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712597356369-koumota+soba+noodle_copy.jpg)

_Handmade soba noodles_

The bowl of handmade soba noodles with ribbons of daikon (mooli) and seaweed is one of the finest I have eaten, noisily sucked into the mouth with utmost pleasure, the broth delicately seasoned and not too strong or salty.

We finish with a cold peach Shiruko, a traditional Japanese dessert made from azuki beans.

My former colleague chose the wines. They are served to me blind because he loves to put me on the spot. We begin with a **NV Brut Rosé** from **Billecart-Salmon** , though I am too busy catching up with my friends to compose a note. All of the wines are reds on this occasion.

The **2008 Don Maximiano** from **Viña Errázuriz** is a blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, the rest a blend of Carmenère, Petit Verdot and Syrah. Smoky red fruit appears on the nose, quite warm and inviting yet not overly rich, perhaps melted by time in bottle. It offers scents of brown spices, earthenware and curry leaf with further aeration. The palate has a sumptuous texture, rounded and full in the mouth. Bottle age softens the tannins with brown spice and subtle meat juice notes towards the finish. It is delightful, although I would drink bottles sooner rather than later. The **2008 d’Armailhac** is one of my favorite wines from this period. The nose bursts with freshly picked blackberry, rolled tobacco and just a touch of brine, all well-defined and unashamedly classic in style, perhaps too austere for some. The palate is elegant and poised, with plenty of black fruit in the context of the growing season. This is a Pauillac that is _à point_.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1712597391000-koumoto+bottles.jpg)

The **1989 Pinot Noir Jensen Vineyard** from **Calera** is a real surprise. I am inexperienced with respect to mature Californian Pinot Noir, and Josh Jensen’s wine was a revelation. Candied red fruit commingles with blood orange and Kirsch, unmistakably not from Burgundy because it is too rich, but it is certainly not over-ripe. The palate is overly sweet and Californian on the entry. Still, there is structure behind this Pinot extant after more than three decades, with quite plush raspberry fruit on the quintessentially Californian finish. It's just a lovely wine that is, once again, perfect to drink now. The **1975 Batailley** is a vintage poured at a vertical at the Pauillac estate with Frédéric Castèja a few months earlier, but perversely, this bottle shows better. There’s a strong marine influence on the nose, and kelp and crustacea intertwine with slightly rustic but attractive black fruit, austere, compared to recent vintages, albeit typical of that period for Batailley. The palate is gentle, perhaps a little angular, though this bottle exhibited a touch more black fruit on the finish to counterbalance its obdurate tannins, a trope of the 1975 Left Banks. The aforementioned vertical will appear this year.

The **1976 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate** from **Clos du Val** is the most interesting of all the wines. The estate was founded by John and Henrietta Goelet in the early Seventies when the couple challenged recently graduated winemaker Bernard Portet to create a Bordeaux-inspired estate in Napa. Clos du Val attained global recognition when its inaugural 1972 Cabernet Sauvignon was one of the wines poured blind by Steven Spurrier at the epochal _The Judgement of Paris_, so this bottle of 1976 was one of their earliest bottlings that, incidentally, came directly from Clos de Val’s apparently meager reserves. It is very elegant and perfumed on the nose, typical old school, classic Napa Cabernet in all its unfettered glory, beautifully defined with wilted rose petals and a light fish scale element. Supple, very pliant tannins define the palate. There remains ample freshness and poise, a fine silver thread of acidity and a clove-tinged, rounded, exquisitely balanced finish that would surpass practically every other Bordeaux from this vintage. Outstanding.

Koumoto is fantastic from start to finish. It is not too pretentious. The staff are friendly and attentive. If you want a masterclass in traditional Japanese cuisine based on fastidiously sourced ingredients, your tastebuds will be eternally grateful. Yes, it is difficult to find, though not impossible, so do as much research as possible beforehand to get your bearings.

I bid adieu to my former colleague. We’ve both come a long way since we first met many years ago. From the youngest member of the wine department, he’s now running the show, and my own career isn’t going too badly. Domo arigato Hiro San.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Koumoto, Tokyo, Japan

Vinous Table: Koumoto, Tokyo, Japan (Apr 2024)

Vinous Table: Japan Gastronomy: A Primer

Vinous Table: Japan Gastronomy: A Primer (Apr 2024)

### [Plénitude](https://www.chevalblanc.com/fr/maison/paris/restaurants-et-bars/plenitude/)

### 

Cheval Blanc Paris

8 Quai du Louvre

75001 Paris

France

Tel: +33 (0)1 40 28 00 00

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 29, 2024

### The Food:

Partridge / Autumn Vegetables / Ballerina  
For Consommé ‘Plume Sauvage’

Rabbit / Crayfish / Chanterelle  
For Double Sauce ‘Lac des Merveilles’

Sole / Pomme de Mer / Caviar  
For Bouillon ‘Ode A L’Iode’

Langoustine / Jerusalem Artichoke / Black Cardamom  
For Sabayon ‘Astera’

Poultry / Artichoke / Pilaf  
For Poulette “D’Y”

Red Mullet / Boulangère / Crocus  
For Fumet de Roche ‘Bravade’

Emotional Memory  
Apple / Quince / Vanilla / Pommeau

Cocoa Pod Flower  
Pear / Chocolate / Tonka

**The Wines:**

| 2010 Dom Ruinart | 98 |
| 2014 Domaine Dujac Morey-Saint-Denis | ? |

Three-star Michelin restaurants are usually not my cup of tea. Let me get that out of the way. I often find the ambiance at these establishments far too formal and structured for my personal taste, while I tend to enjoy simpler, more ingredient-driven cooking most of the time. However, when I asked friends and colleagues whose opinions I respect where to eat in Paris, one name popped up on everyone’s list.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711743746478-IMG_6082_copy2.jpg)

_Partridge, Autumn Vegetables, Ballerina, For Consommé ‘Plume Sauvage’_

Plénitude is located in the Cheval Blanc Hotel, one of the hottest spots in Paris. The hotel boasts a stunning collection of restaurants and a gorgeous bar, but Plénitude is the crown jewel. Chef Arnaud Donckele is among the brightest young stars in the world of French Haute cuisine. Donckele was introduced to the food at a young age. He started by working alongside his parents in their charcuterie business. Studies in cooking led to positions with several elite chefs, including Michel Guérard and Alain Ducasse. Donckele became chef at La Vague d'Or in the Cheval Blanc Hotel in St. Tropez at age 27. The coveted three Michelin stars followed a few years later.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711730339596-IMG_6113_copy.jpg)

_Chef Arnaud Donckele and his team in action. Every party is brought into the kitchen at some point in the evening._

The staff is immediately welcoming. First we are taken to the visit the extensive wine cellar. The elegant, well-lit dining room feels intimate and sophisticated. Tables hug large windows that look across the Seine. Another set of tables sits further back, slightly elevated, offering a feeling of airy spaciousness. My only real critique of the room is that the acoustics are so crisp that it is very easy to hear the conversations of nearby tables, even though tables are set far apart. Donckele has thought about every detail, from how the room is arranged to breezy, impeccably ironed uniforms for the staff that convey lightness and movement through space in a sort of Paris meets the Alps kind of look. Service is attentive but never intrusive.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711720572067-IMG_6069_copy-rabbit.jpg)

_Rabbit, Crayfish, Chanterelle, For Double Sauce ‘Lac des Merveilles’_

Dinner starts with a fresh, briny oyster and a glass of **2010 Dom Ruinart**. It’s a beautiful pairing. I have always loved the 2010 for the way it straddles the worlds of Champagne and still wine. It is absolutely glorious on this night. In fact, I could have had it for the entire meal. A deep, luscious morel broth and Brittany scallops are other highlights among the amuse-bouches.

Plénitude offers two tasting menus, both built around the concept that sauces are the central building block for each dish rather than accompaniments. Symphonie (€475 per person) is described as a six-course symphony of sauces in six acts, while Fugons Ensemble (€390 per person) is a four-course menu composed by the guest. For smaller groups of four and under, each person can have their own menu, which provides an opportunity to taste many dishes. Three wine pairing options are offered, ranging from €195 to €495 per person. Reservations are a must and are booked 5-6 months in advance.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711721066479-IMG_6094_copy+-+caviar.jpg)

_Sole, Pomme de Mer, Caviar, For Bouillon ‘Ode A L’Iode’_

The wine list is suitably impressive, as befits a restaurant of this level. There are plenty of options, naturally with a good bit of focus on wines from the LVMH collection of properties. Our server, who has been with Plénitude since opening, does a great job with wine service. That said, I am surprised there are no sommeliers on the floor. Perhaps we visited on an atypical night. In my view, a three-star Michelin restaurant must have sommeliers. Presumably one of the reasons why wines in elite restaurants like Plénitude are pricey is service. Fine, no problem. That’s part of the package. But that service, that attention to detail, it has to be there. This is the one part of the dinner that is a bit disappointing.

Unfortunately, the **2014 Morey-Saint-Denis** from Domaine Dujac is not at all expressive. It happens. I found the 2014 terrific a year ago, but on this night, it is in a rather grumpy mood. There is nothing obviously wrong with this bottle, but it’s just not great. This is one of the downsides of tasting wine critically for work. I find it hard to enjoy a wine if there is anything slightly not perfect about a bottle. Not an issue, though, as the focus is more on food than wine anyway.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711721102314-IMG_6089_copy+-+langoustine.jpg)

_Langoustine, Jerusalem Artichoke, Black Cardamom, For Sabayon ‘Astera’_

Speaking of food, every dish is sublime. Here, I must apologize, as the photos can’t possibly do justice to elaborate presentations that include numerous components for each course. The food is highly complex in execution, while flavors and textures are deeply layered, yet there is no feeling of heaviness at all. I have described the dishes with quite a bit of detail but have not listed all the ingredients. Foodies will be delighted with the full descriptions of the sauces that the kitchen leaves with guests at the end of dinner.

The Partridge, served with autumn vegetables in a consommé flavored with partridge truffle essence, Cognac, fennel, juniper berry and shallot, is fabulous. I am not sure which part of this dish is the ‘main’ part, but it does not matter. The consommé is so deep and satisfying that I would be happy with it alone, but the whole course is brilliant. The Rabbit is brought out of the kitchen in a glass dome, shown off for maximum visual impact, and then presented in a full composition a few minutes later, with all of its components artfully arranged. The Double Sauce of tomato essence, crayfish broth, roasted head oil, rabbit brother and farmer’s lard is superb. My only quibble here is that the plating is so complex that the rabbit is only lukewarm by the time it arrives at the table.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711721147863-IMG_6127_copy+-+red+mullet.jpg)

_Red Mullet, Boulangère, Crocus, For Fumet de Roche ‘Bravade’_

Donckele’s Sole is sweet, salty and creamy all at once. The fish is perfectly cooked, a dollop of caviar is generous, and the accompanying bouillon with caramelized lemon balm branch, dry plankton powder, abalone juice, brown butter, Furio wine vinegar and Verbena pepper is delicious. It’s a stunning dish in every way. The Langoustine is another highlight. Here, the Sabayon ‘Astera,’ with its bold, luscious mix of citrus, helianthus essence, shallot, black cardamom and intense shellfish flavors, steals the show.

At this point, we are escorted into the kitchen for a tour and a refreshing spoonful of sorbet at the chef’s table. Donckele is hard at work at the pass, finishing all the dishes with meticulous attention to detail, but he wants to meet all his guests. This interlude is another nice touch that brings guests closer to the restaurant and makes them feel part of the overall experience while also offering a change of scenery that is invigorating.

Dinner continues with a very tasty, moist chicken served with slivers of caramelized artichoke and rice pilaf on the side, finished with a gorgeous sauce of saffron chicken broth, Ygrec, lemongrass, orange zest, celery, rosemary, cream, tangerine olive oil, semi-salted butter and Timut pepper. It’s not your ordinary chicken, to say the least. Red mullet is one of my favorite fish. Here it is served with two sauces, a Provençal-inspired bouillabaisse of rockfish, pastis, Cognac, shallot, fennel, celery, crab broth, orange peel, saffron, potato, olive oil, sea urchin juice and Voatsiperifery pepper and sabayon of vegetables. It’s another dish full of bold, rustic flavors that are elevated to the sublime.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711721201501-IMG_6166_copy.jpg)

_Emotional Memory: Apple, Quince, Vanilla, Pommeau_

Desserts are a fitting conclusion to this dinner. The Emotional Memory is quince and apple dessert Donckele and Pastry Chef Maxime Frédéric inspired by nostalgic memories. An anise-flavored tuile with a dollop of rice-infused Chantilly cream seems to float over a sauce flavored with quince and apple essence, saffron infusion, lemon juice and grated fresh apple.

_![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711730849748-IMG_6153_copy.jpg)_

_Cocoa Pod Flower, Pear, Chocolate, Tonka_

As delicious as it is visually stunning, the Cocoa Pod Flower is a tour-de-force, and I say that as someone who does not have a huge, sweet tooth. The contrast of flavors, textures and temperatures is sheer mastery. It is presented first as the Triple Sauce Belle Helène, a raw cocoa bean emulsion with Tonka chocolate sauce, candied pear, Polignac almond and pear sorbet served over a warm open flame. Both desserts are terrific but also a bit sweet for my personal taste.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711721235978-IMG_6144-copy+-+cocoa+pod.jpg)

_Triple Sauce Belle Helene_

Vanilla and orange blossom-infused crème anglaise is the last sauce of the evening. It is another fabulous creation. Ice cream flavored with Madagascar vanilla and kirsch is a veritable explosion of flavors. The last sweet bites are presented on a whimsical pop-up map of the main sights of Paris. It’s a fun touch that perfectly embodies the combination of seriousness and whimsical fantasy that lies at the essence of what Plénitude is all about.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711744738036-IMG_6178_copy.jpg)

_The last sweet bites are presented on a whimsical pop-up map of the main sights of Paris._

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Plénitude, Paris, France

Vinous Table: Plénitude, Paris, France (Mar 2024)

[
### Le Dôme Montparnasse
](http://www.restaurant-ledome.com/)

### 

108 Boulevard du Montparnasse

75014 Paris, France

Phone: +33 1 43 35 25 81

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 22, 2024

### The Food:

Plateau de Dôme

Millefeuille Napoleon with rum and vanilla

**The Wine:**

2016 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat Chablis 1er Cru La Forest 93

I was very pleased to be nimble enough with my phone to snag a last-minute lunch reservation at Le Dôme Montparnasse just a few minutes before closing on a cold Sunday afternoon.

A veritable Parisian institution, Le Dôme was founded in 1898 and gained its early fame as a favorite haunt of writers, artists and intellectuals. Le Dôme was highly recommended by several locals. This very casual lunch certainly did not disappoint.

Le Dôme is located in the 14th arrondissement, not too far from the Montparnasse train station. The kitchen, under the direction of Japanese Chef Yoshihiko Miura, offers an extensive menu of mostly seafood and fish. Be warned: this is not the place to visit if you are craving steak frites. From what I have been able to gather, this part of town has a large population of residents originally from Brittany. Fishermen would bring their catch into Paris via the train. Eventually, many of them settled in the neighborhood.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711116986022-IMG_6220_copy.jpg)

_Plateau de Dôme_

The first thing I saw when I walked in was the Napoleon being served to the last of the lunch crowd. That was a good sign. Not wanting to deal with the large choice of dishes and really in the mood for something light, I ordered the Plateau de Dôme, one of the several seafood platters on the menu. Our waiter had to check if it was still available given the late hour, but fortunately, the oyster shucker was still in the house.

After a short wait, the Plateau arrived. What a treat. I have fond memories of eating a seafood tower with my parents when I was a kid, so this lunch brought back so many memories of those early trips to Paris. Everything is absolutely delicious. The oysters are wonderfully briny. The crab, and especially the baby shrimp, require a combination of patience and manual dexterity, but every bite is worth the effort.

Le Dôme offers a small but well-chosen, unfussy wine list. I could not resist the **2016 Chablis La Forest 1er Cru** from **Vincent Dauvissat**. I can’t think of too many things I would rather eat and drink than this food and this wine. With a little age, the 2016 La Forest is exquisite. Light on its feet and yet wonderfully layered, it is sublime today. Light citrus, floral, sage and mineral inflections dance on the palate. It should continue to drink well for another decade or more.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1711116955089-AG+VT_March222024.jpg)

_Millefeuille Napoleon with rum and vanilla_

I am not the biggest dessert fan, but there was no way I was going to pass on that Millefeuille Napoleon. Just a bite or two is enough. Well, maybe more than that. It’s a super-classic and not-too-sweet finale to this simple but deeply satisfying lunch.

Aside from the obligatory foie gras dish, the menu at Le Dôme is pretty much all fish and seafood. I can’t say if the other options are as good as the seafood tower, but I have made it a point to find out very soon.

Paris can be a challenging city for eating, especially on the weekends, when so many places are closed. Le Dôme is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, which makes it a very useful address. Service is incredibly professional and friendly.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Le Dôme Montparnasse, Paris France

Vinous Table: Le Dôme Montparnasse, Paris France (Mar 2024)

### [Caffé Toscanini](https://restauranttoscanini.nl/en/)

Lindengracht 75

1015 KD Amsterdam

Netherlands

BY NEAL MARTIN | MARCH 15, 2024

### The Food:

Oysters

Buffalo mozzarella with seasonal vegetables

Octopus with chickpeas, sweet peppers, chickpea puree and friggitello

Sea urchin linguini

Gnocchi with mortadella and chicken

Forest fruit jam tart and pannacotta al caramello

**The Wine:**

2017 Antoniolo Gattinara Riserva 93

I could never understand the role of a music conductor. All musicians need to do is read the time signature. As the all-important third clarinetist in Westcliff High School for Boys’ orchestra, I don’t think I looked at our baton-wielding music teacher once. I just stared at the score, hoping to play the right notes in the right order. Our beleaguered maestro grew ever more irate as every single player, from piccolo to timpani, ignored his increasingly furious waving, face turning the color of beetroot, until finally, he exploded.

“Look at the baton!” he yelled. “What do you think I am waving it for?”

Well, I couldn’t answer that question because, frankly, I had no idea. He mopped his perspiring brow, tapped the lectern, and once more, we started mauling the 1812 Overture until Tchaikovsky could take no more, exhumed himself from the grave, marched into the school hall, and exhorted us to just stop. It usually took a few bars before our exasperated conductor was being ignored, and sections of the orchestra slipped into their unique tempo, from _larghissimo_ to _vivacissimo_. It was mean of us, really. This schoolboy experience instilled disregard for the profession. I had more respect for bus conductors. But recently, that all changed. Watching the film _Maestro_ on Netflix, I was transfixed by its central scene, the spinetingling re-enactment of Leonard Bernstein conducting the LSO at Ely Cathedral in 1973, a bravura performance of Mahler’s Resurrection Symphony. How ironic that it took an actor, namely Bradley Cooper, to finally make me appreciate the artistry of making funny faces and odd arm movements while gracefully swishing a wand.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710510391992-toscanini+facade_copy.jpg)

_The Toscanini façade_

Perhaps it was fate that, a couple of days later in Amsterdam, I was being guided to a table at a restaurant named after another maestro, Italian conductor Arturo Toscanini. It was obviously “conductor week”. And if music is the food of love, then eat on because Toscanini was an absolute delight from the moment we stepped inside until we bade farewell. Caffé Toscanini, to give its slightly misleading full name because, by all appearances, it is not a café but rather an institution that has served Florentine cuisine since 1985. In 1999, it was bought by Leonardo Pacenti, South African-born with an Italian father and a delicatessen was added next door.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710510445997-toscanini+kitcehn_copy.jpg)

_The Toscanini kitchen_

Caffé Toscanini is a relatively large restaurant for Amsterdam; even so, it was packed to the rafters on a Friday night. Indeed, its popularity is such that reservations must be made weeks in advance. I had to pull a couple of strings to secure a table. Its popularity doesn’t stem from glittering awards or celebrity chefs. People just want to be here. I cannot think of a restaurant that exuded such an infectious, palpable, welcoming ambiance upon entering, as if two invisible arms reached out and gave me a hug. If Toscanini could bottle its atmosphere and sell it to other restaurants, it would make a fortune. Everyone seemed elated to be here: couples, families and small groups, hipsters to pensioners, hipster pensioners, gourmands to casual diners, all out to have a good time and eat handsomely. Seated at the rear next to the open kitchen, I was afforded a bird’s eye view as chefs busied themselves at worktops and stoves, all with smiles on faces, focused on their tasks, yet lending to the party atmosphere.

Pacenti himself came out and greeted us. Advising that we had already eaten earlier that day at [Zoldering](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-zoldering-amsterdam-netherlands-feb-2024), he took out requests and organized a bespoke lighter dinner, mainly from that day’s specials.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710510549251-toscanini+oysters_copy.jpg)

_Oysters_

We commenced with a plate of oysters that were fresh and tangy, benefitting from the mignonette that lent sharpness without overpowering the bivalve. Delicious.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710510515681-toscanini+veg_copy.jpg)

_Buffalo mozzarella with seasonal vegetables_

The first dish was a medley of vegetables and buffalo mozzarella that Pacenti advised to mash together, comprising deep-fried artichoke, aubergine, broccoli, carrot, pumpkin and chicory leaves. The vegetables were fresh and perfectly cooked, the sweetness and freshness of the mozzarella imparting a delicate sweetness and enhancing the umami sensation.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710510580170-toscanini+octopus_copy.jpg)

_Octopus with chickpeas, sweet peppers, chickpea puree and friggitello_

Next, octopus with chickpeas and sweet peppers served with a chickpea purée and friggitello or sweet Italian peppers. This was a winning combination. The octopus was perfectly cooked and packed with flavor, the friggitello soft and sweet. The chickpea purée worked as a neutral canvas, though I wondered whether a different purée, something more citric, might have enhanced our eight-legged friend, especially as this dish was already adorned with fried chickpeas that had a lovely crunch.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710510623489-toscanini+linguini_copy.jpg)

_Sea urchin linguini_

We downsized main courses as pasta can fill you up and leave you waddling out of the restaurant. The sea urchin linguini is delicious. The homemade pasta had a perfect al dente consistency, perhaps a little hard for some, but just how I like it. The sea urchin was fine, though having eaten some incredible ‘uni’ in Japan, I was just looking for a bit more salinity and texture. The accompanying gnocchi dish with mortadella and chicken was an absolute treat, beautifully cooked and delicately seasoned.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710511082695-toscanini+gnocci_copy.jpg)

_Gnocchi with mortadella and chicken_

To finish, I chose the forest fruit jam tart. This had an impressive depth of flavors that made a nice contrast with the pastry's sweetness; though I could have gobbled it down twice, the single slice was plenty. The pannacotta al caramello was sweet and decadent, perfect wobble, and perhaps I didn’t really need the caramel.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710510681480-toscanini+tart_copy.jpg)

_Forest fruit jam tart_

One reason that I selected this restaurant is the wine list, which is outstanding. Exclusively focused on Italy, every region is comprehensively catered for, a mixture of marquee names and reams of smaller quality-driven growers. Frankly, it was almost too much trying to choose one, so I whipped out my phone and used an App called “Vinous”. You might have heard of it. It’s quite good. I selected the **2017 Gattinara Riserva** from **Antoniolo** and had to resist gulping down the entire bottle before Primi. The aromatics are clean and delineated, with dark cherries mixed with wild heather and a very light marine influence. Reading Antonio’s note, he found the tannins quite strong. Perhaps they have begun to soften because they provided ample backbone, but I did not find them obtrusive and counterbalanced the intense flavors of our dishes. Red cherries, blueberry and freshly rolled tobacco furnished the finish that had real “bite”, sufficient sapidity to tempt you back for more. It was the first time that I had drunk a wine from this producer, and hopefully, it will not be the last.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710510732426-toscanini+pannacotta_copy.jpg)

_Pannacotta al caramello_

Toscanini should be high on the list for any Italian epicures or oenophiles. The lively atmosphere is worth the entry price alone. Speaking to Pacenti later, he explained how regulars tend to come on Friday night and how customers are exacting in their demands with respect to seasoning, consistency of pasta and so on. At Toscanini, this is no problem. It is all part of the service. Factor a wine list that is so chock full of gems that I considered putting in a request to swap Bordeaux for Italy (only joking). Then you understand why this restaurant has been part of Amsterdam’s dining scene for almost four decades.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1710510753748-toscanini+wine_copy.jpg)

Finally, I would like to sincerely apologize to my music teacher. It’s too late now. I ought to have paid attention, followed his lead and kept time instead of wandering off at my own speed like a toddler with a short attention span, eager to finish the 1812 before everyone else, unlike this restaurant, where I would have loved to have stayed longer.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Caffé Toscanini, Amsterdam, Netherlands

Vinous Table: Caffé Toscanini, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Mar 2024)

[
### Glen Ellen Star
](https://glenellenstar.com/)

### 

13648 Arnold Drive

Glen Ellen, CA 95442

Phone: +1 707 343-1384

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | MARCH 08, 2024

### The Food:

Pizza Margherita; basil, tomato, mozzarella

Simple garden greens; shallot and Dijon vinaigrette

Wood-fired whole branzino; mole dulce, sweet potatoes, broccolini, cipollini onion, chili lime butter, crispy seeds

Vanilla Maple Bourbon Affogato

**The Wine:**

2001 Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon Artist Series 94

I was very much looking forward to this dinner at Glen Ellen Star after a long day of tastings. The restaurant is in the small village of Glen Ellen, just a few minutes north of Sonoma, in the heart of Sonoma Valley. I spent a lot of time here when we worked on our Sonoma Valley map project a few years ago. Sonoma Mountain is just behind the restaurant, while Moon Mountain is east. Being in this unique part of Sonoma County always brings back a lot of memories.

Chef/Owner Ari Weiswasser offers a Cali/Italian-inspired menu with a focus on dishes cooked in the wood-fired oven. Weiswasser worked at a number of restaurants on the East Coast before moving to California and later working at the French Laundry before opening Glen Ellen Star in 2012. There are two dining rooms, one with a small bar area and the wood stove and another larger room that is a sort of covered terrace. Reservations are essential, as the restaurant fill up quickly with both locals and visitors.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1709908839904-AG+VT_March072024_1.jpg)

_Pizza Margherita; basil, tomato, mozzarella_

We order the Pizza Margherita to start while contemplating the menu. It disappears so fast I am barely able to take a picture. The simple garden greens salad dressed with Dijon vinaigrette is light, refreshing and beautifully done. I then settle into the whole branzino, which is stuffed with mole dulce, sweet potatoes, broccolini, cipollini onion, chili lime butter and crispy seeds, then cooked in the wood oven. It’s a rich, heady dish full of bold flavors that are perfectly suited to a cold winter evening and red wine.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1709908856298-AG+VT_March072024_2.jpg)

_Simple garden greens; shallot and Dijon vinaigrette_

Glen Ellen Star has a terrific wine program, especially for a restaurant of its size. There are plenty of choices, from highly affordable bottles all the way to more lavish options, including a few older wines, some of which are very well-priced. The focus is on Sonoma and Napa, with plenty of smaller artisan producers featured. Unfortunately, the above is not a given these days, so the wine program deserves kudos.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1709908875794-AG+VT_March072024_3.jpg)

_Wood-fired whole branzino; mole dulce, sweet potatoes, broccolini, cipollini onion, chili lime butter, crispy seeds_

My eye is immediately drawn to the 2001 Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon Artist Series, which is on the list for a very reasonable tariff. Over the years, I have had a chance to taste several of the Artist Series Cabernets made by Mike and Karin Lee – not as many as I would like – but enough to know this is a very special wine. According to what I have been able to gather, the Artist Series Cabernets were built on a core of fruit from Montecillo (which the Lees owned at the time) and other celebrated sites in what is now the Moon Mountain District AVA, including Chuy (today is Mid-slope).

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1709908890795-AG+VT_March072024_4.jpg)

A dark, potent wine, the **2001 Kenwood Cabernet Sauvignon Artist Series** is packed with black fruit, gravel, incense, lavender, black olive, sage and tobacco. It’s a wine made in the style of the time, which is to say, with quite a bit of extraction and oak impact. Even so, the 2001 has aged impeccably, far better than many of the 2001 Napa Valley Cabernets I tasted in 2021 for a 20-year report on that vintage. Moreover, the 2001 Artist Series has none of the Brett issues that afflict so many other wines from Napa in that era. It’s an absolute treat to drink this from an impeccably sourced bottle.

Dessert is simple. Affogato is next to impossible to beat in my book, so affogato it is, done here with Vanilla Maple Bourbon ice cream.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1709908909275-AG+VT_March072024_5.jpg)

_Vanilla Maple Bourbon Affogato_

This was a fantastic dinner all around. However, I would be remiss if I did not mention a few things that readers should be aware of. Glen Ellen Star is a very expensive restaurant in its peer group. These are decidedly big city prices. Let me be clear. I don’t envy anyone in the restaurant business. I know enough to know how brutal the hospitality industry is. How long the hours are, how hard it is to find good people, how thin margins can be. So, I hope at least the staff is well compensated. I also find the addition of a 3% service charge for bills paid with credit cards to be obnoxious. This is what small service businesses do. It’s not something elite restaurants should do.

Vinous readers venturing into Sonoma County should plan on checking out Glen Ellen Star. The drive from Napa Valley is about 45 minutes, but I advise caution, especially if driving back late at night, as roads can be treacherous for those not accustomed to these rural areas.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Glen Ellen Star, Glen Ellen, CA

Vinous Table: Glen Ellen Star, Glen Ellen, CA (Mar 2024)

[
### Angler
](https://www.anglerrestaurants.com/san-francisco)

### 

132 The Embarcadero

San Francisco, CA 94105

+1 415 872 9442

BY ANTONIO GALLONI | FEBRUARY 23, 2024

### The Food:

Bluefin Tuna with Sanbaizu Jelly & Shiso

Scallop Crudo, Yuzu & Fig Leaf

Embered Oysters with Smoke Chili Butter

Blistered Broccolini, Pistachio Bagna Cauda

Whole Sea Bream with Vermouth Butter

Soft Serve Sundae

**The Wines:**

| 2021 Cédric Bouchard-Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Noirs Val Vilaine | 93 |
| 2020 Domaine Y. Clerget Meursault Les Chevalières | 90 |

  

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1708724000576-IMG_7944_copy.jpg)

_Bluefin Tuna with Sanbaizu Jelly & Shiso_

Angler is the sister restaurant to [Saison](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-mount-sinai-charity-dinner-at-saison-nov-2019) and one of my favorite places in San Francisco. It opened Embarcadero District in 2018 and is a sort of alter ego to the ultra high-end Saison, offering dishes with similar inspirations, but in a less formal setting. The focus is on fish and seafood. As at Saison, a large open fire is the heart and soul of Angler. COVID-19 disrupted what were once regular visits. This was my first time back in several years. Perhaps for that reason, I especially enjoyed this dinner.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1708724025876-VT_Feb232024+-+Scallop.jpg)

_Scallop Crudo, Yuzu & Fig Leaf_

A challenge any frequent traveler to California wine country has is finding a restaurant to have a good, real dinner ibefore hopping on a red-eye back to the East Coast. Angler is my favorite stop. With some preparation and careful scheduling, dinner on the way to SFO is easy to do. It’s also a far better option than anything at the airport. One word of advice: If parking in a garage, check hours of operation. I once nearly missed a late-night flight because I arrived to pick up my car at the last possible minute.

_![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1708712177002-VT_Feb232024+-+Oysters.jpg)_

_Embered Oysters with Smoke Chili Butter_

The dining room was bustling when we arrived for our seats at the bar. We started with the bluefin tuna appetizer, which was delicious. It was served with a crispy shiso wafer and a cool, refreshing jelly of sanbaizu, the traditional Japanese, rice vineyard, sugar and soy sauce dressing. The scallop crudo was equally divine, with the yuzu and fig leaf beautifully playing off the sweetness of the scallops. Angler’s embered oysters were recommended by the couple sitting next to us and did not disappoint. Although we were drinking Champagne and white Burgundy, this is a dish that could have also worked well with red wine.

_![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1708712218939-VT_Feb232024+-+Roasted+fish.jpg)_

_Whole Sea Bream with Vermouth Butter_

A whole sea bream cooked on the open fire and served with Vermouth butter was the perfect dish to share. It was delicious. There is something about a pristine fish cooked on the grill that just can’t be beat. Blistered broccolini made for a fine accompaniment.

To say Angler's wine list is extensive would be a massive understatement. Co-Founder/Beverage Director Mark Bright and his team have put together a fabulous list. The Champagne section alone would take considerable time to study in detail. I was tempted by many German wines, but that is not my area of expertise. Perhaps I will be more adventurous next time. Prices are, in many cases, exceptionally fair for restaurants in the United States. I happened to see one wine that was almost half of what I had seen on a Napa Valley wine list just a few days prior!

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1709916885999-Wine+VT+March8replacement.jpg)

**Cédric Bouchard’s 2021 Blanc de Noirs Val Vilaine** is even more powerful than I recall from the last time I tasted it, about three months prior. Low yields resulted in an especially rich Champagne. In 2021, the Val Vilaine is very much a wine for the dinner table. As much as I enjoyed tasting the 2021 before dinner, it is far from an aperitif Champagne. I was delighted to find Thibaud Clerget’s Meursault Les Chevalières on the list, as it is one of my favorite white Burgundies that remains affordable. The 2020 does not disappoint. It’s just too young. Bright, crisp and minerally, it is a fine accompaniment to our dinner. I especially admire its chiseled energy and overall vibrancy. The inquisitive wine lover will surely find much to explore on this list. My only regret was that I had a flight to catch.

We had just enough time for dessert. The soft serve sundae, generously topped with caramel sauce and pieces of chocolate, is very much in the style of similar desserts at Saison, which is to say pretty strong on sweet, milky flavors. We devoured it.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1709916929249-VT_Feb232024+-+Ice+cream+%281%29.jpg)

_Soft Serve Sundae_

Angler offers a fabulous menu of exceptional food served in a casual environment that in no way sacrifices fine service. Everything was just as great as I remembered. I am already looking forward to going back.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine critic's_



Vinous Table: Angler, San Francisco, CA

Vinous Table: Angler, San Francisco, CA (Feb 2024)

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

### [Manteca – Spitalfields](https://www.mantecarestaurant.co.uk/)

49-51 Curtain Road,

London

EC2A 3PT

(nearest tube – Liverpool Street)

BY NEAL MARTIN | FEBRUARY 09, 2024

### The Food:

Coppa

Pheasant cotoletta with three-cornered leek mayo

Pork and beef meatballs with San Marzano tomato sauce and Parmesan

Tagliatelle al ragù Bolognese

Amarena cherry and almond cake with vanilla gelato

**The Wine:**

2020 Garesio Langhe Nebbiolo 92

Not so long ago, the weakest link in London’s dining scene was finding top-notch Italian restaurants. There are so many pizzeria chains in London that you can smell melted cheese in the air. But exciting Italian chefs pushing boundaries seemed few and far between. I guess the last high-profile opening was _Locanda Locatelli_. That was so long ago that Radio One DJ Chris Evans was wooing Billie Piper at the adjacent table. (I am aware those names will mean little to those in the USA, though Piper turned from a teenage pop star to one of the UK’s best actresses.) Thankfully, matters have changed in recent years. There’s _Bocca di Lupo_, still firing on all cylinders when I took that Martin clan several years ago and probably overdue a Vinous Table. More recently, I visited _Brutto_ in Farringdon, where I enjoyed a delicious porcini tagliatelle shortly before the untimely passing of founder Russell Norman. There’s also _Padella_ in Borough Market, which is more casual, though queues stretch a long way every lunchtime for good reason.

In early 2022, I attended a tasting of Chris and Andrea Mullineux’s wines at an Italian restaurant called Manteca. After stints in Soho and Mayfair, the restaurant had recently settled down in the posher part of Spitalfields, around a 15-minute walk from Liverpool Street Station. It is a joint venture between David Carter of Smokestak and chef Chris Leach, ex-Kitty Fisher’s and [Petersham Nurseries](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-petersham-nurseries-cafe-richmond-uk-mar-2021). The dishes served that day stuck in my memory. Manteca subsequently gained a reputation as one of the capital’s go-to Italians. So, just before Christmas, I met a friend to check out whether Manteca was as good as I remembered.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1707489237600-manteca+coppa.JPG)

_Coppa_

The restaurant occupies a ground floor and basement, a former Pizza Express. On a drizzly cold December lunchtime, I found it was jam-packed, buzzy, and so noisy that often I had to raise my voice above the din. It’s not a place for a romantic meal to whisper sweet nothings into your lover’s ear. In the basement, you walk past a salumeria where assorted salami, prosciutto and hams are aged, tables here packed closely together. One thing that bothered me was that our coats had to be slung over the chairs, and mine kept sliding off. The theme is nose-to-tail eating, certainly leaning towards meat dishes with an in-house butchery and pasta made on-site. Many of the dishes are designed to be shared. What the dishes might lack in subtlety and presentation is more than compensated for with lip-smacking, deliciously, bold flavors. You’re not going to leave feeling hungry because just about everything on the menu is tempting.

We chose coppa from the salumeria, sliced perfectly thin with just enough fat. Delicious! The next dish was Pheasant cotoletta with three-cornered leek mayo. I was a bit shocked with the claw, which might be off-putting for some, yet the meat itself was delicious in terms of gaminess, perhaps just a tiny bit drier than preferred, the splodge of leek mayo lending welcome tanginess, powerful flavors with real punch. I could have eaten another, maybe just requested slightly less cooked.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1707489275624-manteca+pheasant_copy.jpg)

_Pheasant cotoletta with three-cornered leek mayo_

The pork and beef meatballs with San Marzano tomato sauce and Parmesan were a conservative choice, but hey, you just cannot go wrong. These were, again, perfectly cooked and had an oozing flavor.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1707489311976-manteca+meatballs.JPG)

_Pork and beef meatballs with San Marzano tomato sauce and Parmesan_

The tagliatelle al ragù Bolognese was another safe choice, but I was in a pasta kind of mood. My only quibble is that I could have done with a bit more on my plate. Maybe looking back, I should thank the kitchen because I still had room for dessert before my tummy said “full”.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1707489343019-manteca+tagliatelle.jpg)

_Tagliatelle al ragù Bolognese_

The Amarena cherry and almond cake with vanilla gelato was to die for. Moist and crumbly, partnered with the gelato, this was a perfect finish to what had been a superb Italian lunch.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1707489379711-manteca+dessert.JPG)

_Amarena cherry and almond cake with vanilla gelato_

The real attraction for wine lovers is a superb list of mainly Italian wines from various wine regions at reasonable prices. One section labeled “down the rabbit hole” has a long list of cultish names. There are a few orange wines for those who don’t get along with sulfur. I chose the **2020 Langhe Nebbiolo** from **Garesio** at around £60 for a bottle, and it was perfect. I don’t mean it was the greatest wine in the world; rather, at that precise moment, if you had come out with a bottle of, say, Sassicaia 1985 on a silk cushion, I might have waved you away and declared that I was perfectly fine, thank you. Garesio is not a producer that I had heard of before, but I will certainly be keeping my eye out. Lively red cherries and wild strawberry commingle with hints of loam on the nose, the palate quite tart in the mouth, racy acidity with a brisk and lively finish that ably handled with the potent flavors on the plate. I exuded _joie-de-vivre_ and adored it from the start until turning the bottle upside down to eke out the final drops.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1707489420582-manteca+wine.jpg)

Manteca does not quite have the same high profile as its peers, yet it was packed to the rafters, probably more of a lunch venue than an evening. It is not pursuing awards or Michelin stars, and all the better for it. Given the escalation in restaurant prices across London, while Manteca is not inexpensive, it is certainly affordable, and the wide choice of wines will please oenophiles. If you find yourself in the City or around Spitalfields, I heartily recommend this Italian. I’ll follow this Vinous Table with another that has been touted by a friend who knows his stuff. Stay tuned.

At last, London has plenty to offer pasta-hounds like myself who desire more than Pizza Express.

_© 2024, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Manteca, London, UK

Vinous Table: Manteca, London, UK (Feb 2024)

Vinous Table: Where Do I Eat In Burgundy?

Vinous Table: Where Do I Eat In Burgundy? (Jan 2024)

### [Dorian](https://www.dorianrestaurant.com/)

105-107 Talbot Road,

London, W11 2AT

(Nearest tube: Notting Hill – 20 minute walk)

BY NEAL MARTIN | DECEMBER 29, 2023

### The Food:

Gillardeau oysters

Prawn rösti

Sea urchin rösti

Scallop and red mullet with sea urchin sauce

Partridge, fig, cauliflower mushrooms and Guanciale

Turbot with parsley sauce

Pecan pie

Miyagawa sorbet

**The Wines:**

| 2021 Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Kabinett trocken | 93 |
| 1990 Maucaillou | 83? |

Dorian bills itself as a “local bistro”. I always take the description with a pinch of salt. What does that mean exactly? Will there be some bouncer on the door asking for a utility bill to prove I live no more than a ten-minute walk away? If only I did!

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703784653072-dorian+interior_copy.JPG)

_The Dorian interior_

But upon entering Dorian’s doors and surveying the clientele, I recognize no fewer than four acquaintances who live a stone’s throw from its entrance. There’s the former chairman of Manchester United, a wine-lover with whom I’ve shared a few fine bottles, dining with a Masterchef champion who attended one of my book dinners in May. Next table, a food/travel writer that, if memory serves, I last met for lunch just around the corner about 15 years ago. Ah, there’s Aiste Misevicuite, a super-model turned food writer (whose _Luxeats_ social feed/website I highly recommend, especially for those interested in the fine dining scene in Japan).

I double-check that Hugh Grant isn’t sharing a gazpacho with Julia Roberts.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703784678207-oyster_copy.jpg)

_Gillardeau oysters_

Dorian’s credentials as a “local bistro” are therefore confirmed before I’ve even sat down, before proprietor Chris d’Sylva bounds over to our table brimming with bonhomie. I like this. The only other person who does the rounds of the table is Michel Roux Jr. in the now-shuttered La Gavroche. D’Sylva is already well-known in restaurant circles as the proprietor of _Notting Hill Fish+Meat_, so one can expect top-notch ingredients. Dorian’s other credentials stem from the staff. Chef Max Coen is ex-Ikoyi, currently one of the capital’s hippest restaurants, the bar run by Ale Villa, formerly of Clare Smyth’s Core, just round the corner. By now, you can deduce that Dorian is the place to be seen and hearing that the wine list was worth investigating, I booked a table. I was asked to pay £50 in advance, which has bristled some of my friends, though I understand given the number of no-shows these days. I became accustomed to paying in advance in Japan, where the practice is more common, and I suspect it will become more widespread here. The interior is comprised of a lengthy bar and a counter where customers can pop in for an impromptu bite, tables close but not too close together and olive-hued banquets round the side, so comfy that your backside will refuse to budge for three or four hours. The large window frontage lends plenty of natural light. It’s buzzy, not noisy, a reassuring background din of chatter, the clatter of pans and the occasional rattle of cocktail shakers.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703862475967-prawn+rosti_copy.jpg)

_Prawn rösti_

The menu here is top-notch. Half-a-dozen Gillardeau oysters, which seem to be the Oyster de Choix at the moment, are tangy and saline and commence lunch in the perfect way, except I could always eat more.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703862523629-sea+urchin+rosti_copy.jpg)

_Sea urchin rösti_

Dorian instantly became renowned for its rösti. Back in my student days, rösti were the ideal hangover cure, a sponge to soak the previous evening’s excess vino. Dorian seeks to reinvent the dish and does it with style. The prawn rösti are pink with an almost diaphanous gleam, yet they are so nuanced in flavor. The sea urchin rösti takes it to another level. Sea urchin is one of those delicacies where sourcing must be uncompromising, and these really are fabulous. It’s not just the flavor but the texture that makes great uni (I tend to use the Japanese word as I tend to eat them more over there). Who knew? The seafood delicacy makes a great rösti.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703862561662-scallops_copy.jpg)

_Scallop and red mullet with sea urchin sauce_

The urchin theme continues with the scallop and red mullet that comes with a sea urchin sauce, all served in a shell. A little spicier than expected, this has a real kick that almost overwhelms the red mullet, but overall, it retains balance and is one of the highlights.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703784786078-partridge_copy.jpg)

_Partridge, fig, cauliflower mushrooms and Guanciale_

Moving from sea to field, the partridge is served with fig, cauliflower mushrooms and Guanciale. The gaminess of the bird comes through nicely, well-cooked and lightly seasoned, though I am more taken by the succulent fungi that simply ooze flavor.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703784818318-turbot_copy.jpg)

_Turbot with parsley sauce_

For the main, it has to be half a turbot. Inevitably, one compares the fish to Tomos Parry’s at _Brat_ and now _Mountain_ restaurants. If forced to choose, I’d probably still go with Parry’s, but that’s not to take anything away from this beautifully cooked fish whose meat slides off the bones and whose flavors are lifted by a punchy yet balanced parsley sauce. The difference between them is probably just the umami sensation that Parry imbues his turbot by cooking over charcoal.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703784844065-pecan+pie_copy.jpg)

_Pecan pie_

To finish, it has to be good old pecan pie. Outstanding. It’s a perfect denouement to lunch, a bit old school, but there’s nothing wrong with that. The Miyagawa sorbet is a refreshing way to finish; Miyagawa is ostensibly a seedless mandarin from Japan that delivers bite and bitterness. The sorbet is the kind of dish that wakes you up if you’re about to depart for an extended lunch.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703784863861-miyahawa+sorbet_copy.jpg)

_Miyahawa sorbet_

Now, the wines. Dorian is serious about fermented grape juice and has a wide selection of wines to choose from. When they first opened their doors, the wine list was overseen by Dan Keeling and Mark Andres from Noble Rot, though the sommelier informs me that they have expanded their selection, as well as listing mature bottles from shareholders’ collections.

Let’s get this out of the way. A cursory glance at the list demonstrates why Burgundy is pricing itself out of the pockets of all but the super-wealthy. Even a selection of regional Bourgogne Rouge and Blanc easily top three figures. I look on incredulously when I spot a 2013 Bourgogne Rouge from Roumier for £600. I know it’s a blue-chip producer, but surely there’s a limit? Flip the page to Bordeaux, and even some of the Grand Cru Classé are less than half the price. Interestingly, if you’re prepared to shell out more, I do find some mature clarets for very reasonable prices, and if I wanted to splash out, then I would go for that 1962 Cheval Blanc. There are plenty of wines from other countries, if that Roumier is above your budget, with some wines in 500ml servings, always a useful measure for two.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703784882310-koehloer+riesling_copy.jpg)

I plumped for the **2021 Kallstadter Kabinett Trocken** from **Koehler-Ruprecht** – 10% of the price of the Roumier. German Riesling like this should be flying off shelves: taut and linear on the nose at first, it opens wonderfully with orange rind, linseed oil and litchi scents, gaining delineation with every swirl. The palate is beautifully balanced with a razor-sharp line of acidity that lends it perfect freshness. There’s real depth and a slightly honeyed finish to this Trocken, the kind of wine that you have to resist drinking too fast. Thankfully, at 11% alcohol, you can drink as much as you like with fewer consequences the following morning.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703784896286-maucaillou+1990_copy.jpg)

Old vintages of Maucaillou can be excellent. Alas, the half-bottle of **1990 Maucaillou** was so oppressed by Brettanomyces that it was difficult to discern the fruit, however hard I tried. You can tell there is actually a very decent Moulis in the glass, but the palate is, again, hampered by Brettanomyces to the extent that I cannot finish even this demi-bouteille.

Dorian is a great place to visit for either lunch or dinner. I might prefer the former, but then again, I’ve not been at night. It’s very…Notting Hill. Everyone here seems to have done splendidly in life and appears determined to restore the tradition of a long and slightly boozy lunch, one that gobbles most of the afternoon. Dorian is not inexpesive. Then again, nothing is in this part of London. If it’s a local bistro, then it knows that locals won’t balk at paying premium prices, not least one that comes with plenty of atmosphere and the food reaches high standards without Michelin-starred pretensions. For oenophiles, the wine list has plenty to offer. We’ll ignore that aforementioned Roumier because it’s an extensive list for a bistro, blue-chips cohabiting with more affordable names like the Riesling I ordered.

_© 2023, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



Vinous Table: Dorian, London, UK

Vinous Table: Dorian, London, UK (Dec 2023)

[
### Restaurant Gordon Ramsay
](https://www.gordonramsayrestaurants.com/restaurant-gordon-ramsay/)

68 Royal Hospital Rd

London SW3 4HP

Nearest tube: Sloan Square (20 minute walk)

BY NEAL MARTIN | DECEMBER 22, 2023

### The Food:

Gougères, pastrami beef tartare, whipped lardo with black garlic and bee pollen

Spiced duck tea infused with orange and Madeira

Isle of Skye scallops with maitake, pickled walnut and jus gras

Lobster, langoustine, salmon ravioli with lemon and sauce Americaine

Chestnut linguine with aged parmesan and white truffles

100-day aged Cumbrian Brue Grey beef, Tokyo turnips, black garlic and smoked bone marrow

Frangola, Moscato d’Asti and violet sorbet

Caramelized apple tarte tatin with Tahitian vanilla ice cream

**The Wines:**

| 2011 Keller Riesling Dalsheimer Hubacker Grosses Gewächs | 96 |
| 2014 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru | 94 |

  

Let me lay my cards on the table. I’ve never been a fan of Gordon Ramsay. His splenetic kitchen tirades and grapeshot of expletives thrust him out of the kitchen and into the celebrity sphere, and before you could utter another four-letter word, he was globally recognized. I can live with that. But perhaps his heinous crime from my quarters was his restaurants’ blanket ban on BYO. I know, I know. If a restaurant’s survival is driven by the margins of its wines, then who am I to jeopardize that with my impudence? Therein lies my counterargument. Restaurants can not only survive but _prosper_ by a reasonable BYO policy. Secondly, how would a chef feel if the tables were turned, and I paid a tiny margin or even loss for my beloved fermented grape juice to accompany a main course costing hundreds of pounds? I guess what it boils down to is defending my right to match fabulous wine with commensurate fabulous food without having to win the lottery.

So, when a friend from the Far East invited me to Ramsay’s flagship Hospital Road restaurant for the first time, the spiteful side of my character rubbed its hands, ready to skewer his reputation and mock its three-starred status.

Annoyingly, from the moment I entered its doors to the moment I exited, I bloomin’ well loved it. Just about every facet was precisely what I wanted on a rainy Friday night in Chelsea. The ambiance was understated and cozy. Service was attentive and friendly without being overbearing. This first-timer was made to feel like a regular. The Japanese sommelier knew his claret from his Beaujolais without insisting on a wine that hadn’t been within 100km of sulfur. When asked if I could take the Tarte Tatin home for the kids, someone out the back performed origami with tin foil for no other reason than to make it look pretty and easy to carry.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703260792327-ramsay+duck+tea_copy.JPG)

_Spiced duck tea infused with orange and Madeira_

In some ways, the food was not as complex or boundary-pushing in the vein of, say, [Moor Hall](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-moor-hall-lancashire-uk-jan-2023) or that of Ramsay’s former protégé Clare Smyth, now at [Core](https://vinous.com/articles/vinous-table-core-by-clare-smyth-london-united-kingdom-jul-2020). Reflecting upon the dishes, the theme was one of deceptive simplicity. I didn’t feel as if I was putting my taste buds through a MENSA test. They just registered that everything was very, very delicious, which derives from impeccable sourcing and chef patron Matt Abé’s deft touch in the kitchen. No need to show off. None of the razzle-dazzle. Unnecessary.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703260830069-ramsay+scallop_copy.JPG)

_Isle of Skye scallops with maitake, pickled walnut and jus gras_

The gougères were as airy as any enjoyed in Burgundy, and the pastrami beef tartare oozed freshness. My favorite amuse-bouche: the whipped lardo that came with black garlic and bee pollen. The spiced duck tea infused with orange and Madeira was a refresher in disguise, a palate cleanser. It was exquisitely balanced with a neutral opening but delivered a subtle tang on the finish.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703261472611-ramsay+ravioli_copy.JPG)

_Lobster, langoustine, salmon ravioli with lemon and sauce Americaine_

The Isle of Skye scallops were cooked to perfection. These came with the elusive maitake mushrooms (I’ve searched everywhere, and they’re bloody impossible to find beyond Japan), pickled walnut and jus gras.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703261501559-ramsay+linguine.JPG)

_Chestnut linguine with aged parmesan and white truffles_

The lobster, langoustine and salmon ravioli with lemon and sauce Americaine is one of Ramsay’s signature dishes. Yeah, it was just ravioli. But you wanted to just roll the flavors around your mouth for as long as you could before dribbling over the ironed white cotton tablecloth. Chestnut linguine with aged parmesan and white truffles? Shave away, waiter, shave ‘til your heart’s content. As I have said before, I’ve never quite understood the fascination of white truffles and sacrilegiously prefer the more rustic flavors of their black counterpart. But I’ve never claimed to be posh and won’t start now. Needless to say, I wanted to lick the bowl.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703261537006-ramsay+beef_copy.JPG)

_100-day aged Cumbrian Brue Grey beef, Tokyo turnips, black garlic and smoked bone marrow_

Since I had eaten a lot of mainly vegetarian food over the previous few days, I treated myself to the 100-day-aged Cumbrian Brue Grey beef served with Tokyo turnips, black garlic and smoked bone marrow. I appreciated that the beef was not excessively large, which would have upset the overall balance of the dinner. In any case, if I want a large slab of cow, I’ll go to Angus Steak House (if they still exist). It was tender and succulent, the marrow lending a little spice and the black garlic a touch of smokiness.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703261574161-ramsay+frangola_copy.JPG)

_Frangola, Moscato d’Asti and violet sorbet_

The pre-dessert consisted of frangola, Moscato d’Asti and violet sorbet that came with such an intricate lattice on top that it felt a shame to smash it with my spoon. It was the warm-up to the caramelized apple Tarte Tatin with Tahitian vanilla ice cream. My friend and I quartered it, which was sufficient for both, the other half winging its way back to Guildford as an apology for dining out gloriously while the kidds chucked something in the microwave.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703261600492-ramsay+tarte_copy.JPG)

_Caramelized apple tarte tatin with Tahitian vanilla ice cream_

Since my host drinks a lot of white Burgundy, I asked if he fancied something different and whether he was familiar with the brilliance of German Riesling. “Not really,” he answered candidly, gesturing me to pick whatever I fancied. Not a difficult choice. The **2011 Riesling Dalsheimer Hubacker Grosses Gewächs** from **Weingut Keller** demonstrated the immeasurable talent of Klaus-Peter Keller to such a degree that the following morning my friend sent a text enquiring where he could acquire bottles. As usual, I wisely asked the sommelier to decant the Riesling to watch it unfold in the glass. As suggested by its deep color, there is a hint of botrytis: dried honey, acacia flowers, saffron and crushed stone, all delivered with stunning delineation. The palate is underpinned by an absolutely killer line of acidity and a salinity that gets the saliva in a blather. Alchemically, this dry Riesling seems to expand in the glass, revealing more and more layers while retaining pin-point precision. Magnificent.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703261633357-ramsay+keller.JPG)

The **2014 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru** from **Domaine de la Romanée-Conti** was a prelude to my revisiting that vintage in the Côte d’Or that autumn. It’s at a beautiful place right now. Vivid Morello cherries, wild strawberries and hints of pressed violet petals unfold on the nose. It is not the most intense I have encountered from this wine, yet the delineated nose is dazzling. The palate is tensile right from the start, prioritizing energy and verticality over horsepower, bright red fruit laced with oyster shell that almost reluctantly fans out on the finish. At nearly ten years of age, I see no reason not to crack one open now, but it will give pleasure over the next 15 years.

![](https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.vinous.com/uploads%2F1703261647314-ramsay+drc.jpg)

It was time to return home after a splendid meal and an overdue catch-up with my host. In retrospect, maybe Hospital Road was more low-key than expected. Maybe misled by its namesake’s showmanship, I had anticipated more razzle-dazzle, but that would be totally surplus to requirements. Is it expensive? For sure, but restaurants at this level are everywhere nowadays, and it’s easy to list pricier places elsewhere in London. As for the attitude to its founding chef, like most famous people I’ve met on my travels, they tend to be very different in the flesh than on TV. No doubt he’s a gentleman. I just wish that once in a while, his establishments would give momentary relief to beleaguered wine lovers being priced off restaurant lists…

Cue a volcanic tirade of expletives from Hospital Road.

_© 2023, Vinous. No portion of this article may be copied, shared or re-distributed without prior consent from Vinous. Doing so is not only a violation of our copyright, but also threatens the survival of independent wine criticism._



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