Visiting Japan’s Ishikawa Prefecture After The Earthquake

On the north coast of Honshu Island, scenically hugging the coastline of the Sea of Japan and just a bullet train ride from Tokyo, Ishikawa Prefecture is a hidden gem amongst the better-known of Japan's tourist destinations. Ishikawa combines cutting-edge contemporary art and centuries-old crafts, stunning ocean vistas and incredible mountain views, cherry blossoms in spring and ski slopes in winter. Ishikawa is the rugged Noto coastline and the serene Kenrokuen Gardens. It's relaxing hot springs and traditional Japanese ryokans. It's the vibrant geigi culture of Kanazawa, the seafaring city of Kaga, and the mountainous Hakusan region. Ishikawa is a rare glimpse at uncompromising beauty and traditions that span centuries.

After COVID-19 travel restrictions ended, Ishikawa saw a steady climb in tourist numbers. However, New Year's Day 2024 changed all that. A magnitude 7.6 earthquake struck the Noto Peninsula in the northern part of the Ishikawa Prefecture. On a peninsula known for its rugged coastlines, rural views, and agricultural heritage, the quake and its accompanying tsunami caused widespread destruction. Some 232 people lost their lives, and tens of thousands had to evacuate their homes, with the most extensive damage occurring in Ishikawa's northern Noto Peninsula.

Residents are still reeling from the earthquake's devastating effects, and many businesses, especially tourism-related ones, have seen a drastic drop in activity. Outside of the damage caused by the quake, businesses across Ishikawa say they're struggling with tourism drying up. Even businesses in unaffected or minimally impacted areas say they see waves of cancellations. In the region's capital city and tourist magnet, Kanazawa, 75 miles south of the earthquake's epicenter, the streets are noticeably less crowded.

Many rural communities in the prefecture rely heavily on tourism to keep their local economies afloat, and the Noto earthquake has seen a ripple of knock-on effects as travelers avoid the region, unaware of what areas they can safely travel to. While months may be needed for certain parts of the Noto Peninsula to reopen to tourism, large areas of Ishikawa remain untouched and open for business. Local businesses, celebrities, and politicians are begging tourists to return. Ishikawa Prefecture governor, Hase Hiroshi, and Kanazawa mayor, Takahasi Murayama, have called tourists to keep their plans and to explore the area's resilient beauty. They say that now is a good time to visit, as tourism will greatly help recovery efforts. One volunteer tour guide in Kanazawa said, "We'd be happy just seeing visitors. It would revitalize the area."

While the Noto Peninsula is still off-limits for tourists, areas like Kanazawa and Kaga suffered minimal damage, and most attractions and businesses here and in the southern parts of the prefecture are open. If you're planning to travel to Japan in the next few months, consider a trip to Kanazawa and southern Ishikawa Prefecture. The region could use your support – now more than ever.

EXPLORING ISHIKAWA PREFECTURE

Kanazawa, the capital city of Ishikawa Prefecture, has a rich culture and history and is the perfect jumping-off point to start your exploration. Kanazawa Castle is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Ishikawa Prefecture. Built in 1580, the castle has suffered a lot throughout history, with several devastating fires over the years. The city has recently rebuilt sections of the castle, and it's an impressive place to visit. A traditional tea service is available at Gyokusen'an Rest House in the Gyokusen'inmaru Garden in the Kanazawa Castle grounds.

Once the outer garden of Kanazawa Castle, Kenrokuen Gardens is one of the city's main attractions. Constructed by the ruling Maeda family over nearly two centuries, the gardens opened to the public in 1871. This is one of Japan's most beautiful and famous traditional gardens. Kenrokuen is small enough to see in an hour if you're in a rush, but it's also a place you could happily stroll through time and time again. Trees, shrubs, ponds, waterfalls, this garden has it all and its appearance changes with the seasons - cherry blossoms in spring, carpets of green moss in summer, in autumn the Japanese maples turn crimson and russet, and in winter gardeners tie up the trees with bamboo and rope to protect them from heavy snowfall. Shigure-tei teahouse sits within the grounds of Kenrokuen and is perfect for relaxing while enjoying a bowl of Japanese tea and traditional snacks.

A stone's throw from Kenrokuen Gardens, the Higashi Chaya District, with its many restaurants and shops, is the entertainment district of Kanazawa. The chaya or 'teahouses' were traditionally places customers would visit for performances by geisha (or geigi as they are called in Kanazawa). A visit to In Kanazawa House is the place to experience a traditional geisha evening with food, entertainment and a chance to talk with the delightful geigi ladies between their performances. In Kanazawa House also offers Japanese cooking classes, which start with a morning visit to Omicho Market, Kanazawa's largest fresh food market, which has existed since the 1600s. Visiting some of the over 180 stalls and restaurants, you'll shop for supplies, before returning to the teahouse to watch, learn, and try your hand at making sushi.

Barely a mile from the Higashi Chaya or Teahouse district are the cobblestone streets and tiled earthen walls of Nagamachi District, once home to several samurai families during the Edo period (1603–1867). Spend a little time exploring here to get a sense of what life was like for the samurai of that time. One of the highlights here is the Nomura Residence, the only samurai residence open to the public in Nagamachi. Various heirlooms are on display here, including a full suit of antique samurai armour.

A great choice for lodging in Kanazawa is the Hyatt Centric Kanazawa, an upscale hotel in the heart of the city, close to all the attractions and just seconds from the railway station where the bullet train to and from Tokyo arrives and departs.

Under an hour's drive from Kanazawa city lies the hamlet of Kanagaso, so tiny that even many locals don't know it exists. Here, you'll find the Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute. Noguchi Naohiko is one of Japan's most famous Toji (sake master brewers) who has made sake since 1949. In 2017, he came out of retirement to open the Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute to teach future master brewers. Try some of the institute's delicious sakes in their special tasting room. Just down the road is Auberge Eaufeu, an elementary school that closed years ago and has been reborn as a luxury hotel and fine-dining restaurant. The restaurant here is overseen by Chef Shota Itoi, the youngest chef in history to win the Grand Prix de la Culture Gastronomique – awarded to chefs who have distinguished themselves in the field of gastronomy.

Drive 45 minutes south of Kanazawa and you'll reach Kaga Onsen, a collection of four hot spring towns (onsen). These hot springs were discovered over 1,300 years ago by monks visiting Mt Hakusan and have been popular ever since. A characteristic of Kaga's hot spring towns is their public bath houses (soyu), found in each town's center.

One of these traditional hot-spring resort towns is Yamashiro Onsen, nestled in the foothills of Mt. Hakusan. Visitors can immerse themselves in the atmosphere of old Japan by staying in a ryokan (inn) and taking a soak in the town's Soyu (public bath) or Ko-Soyu (old public bath). If public bathing is too much for you, then stay at the lovely Tachibana Shikitei ryokan in town where you'll have a private thermal bath in your room. Alternatively, the stunning Mori no Sumika Resort & Spa, with gorgeous rooms, incredible food, and fantastic hot spring baths, is just outside town.

Another one of Kaga's traditional hot spring towns is the nearby Yamanaka Onsen. This small resort town runs parallel to the Kakusenkei Gorge, with its beautiful forest trail and picturesque river. Yamanaka Onsen's hot-spring waters are said to ease muscle and joint pain, speed recovery from disease, and improve one's general health. You can bathe at the Kikunoyu, Yamanaka's public bathhouse right in the town center, which has separate buildings for men and women.

Essential to visit when in the Kaga area is the beautiful Natadera Temple complex. Here, dramatic cliffs and natural rock formations tower over unique temple buildings, serene mossy forests, peaceful carp-filled ponds, and traditional-style gardens. In 717, the monk Taicho climbed Mt. Hakusan and, while meditating on its highest peak, was inspired to build Natadera. The temples' wooden halls and pagodas feature intricate carvings with Chinese zodiac animals, peonies, and chrysanthemums. The main hall, used for most Buddhist services, houses a 25-foot statue of Kannon (the Buddhist goddess of mercy and compassion).

Ishikawa Prefecture is a golden destination where ancient traditions are carried into the future. As the dust settles on the devastation in the north of the prefecture, the next step for this part of Japan is to look forward, and tourism plays a vital part in this. Visiting this special part of Japan now not only brings much-needed income and support but also allows you to experience a unique part of the world.