BULLETIN
ofthe
Society for
^Renaissance Studies
r
Volume xin
Number i
October 1995
In the Tradition of Princely Collections:
Curiosities and Exotica in the Kunstkammer
of Catherine of Austria
Annemarie Jordan Gschwend
E CABINET OF cuRiosixiES became a widespread feature in the
sixteenth Century (Kunst- and Wunderkammern generally designate collections north of the Alps from chambers of art and marvels from Italian
studioliJ) when both princes and humanists developed the taste for collecting. Although they assembled exceptional and extraordinary objects and
juxtaposed oddities of nature (naturalid) with those fashioned by human
hands (artifiäalia) — the greater the diversity the better—the princes and
humanists alike were not just interested in a random collectionrit was rather
an intellectual quest that drove their collecting. It is not an exaggeration to
say that this was a philosophical aspiration for a universal and encyclopaedic
knowledge and a desire to create a showcase where the inner world (microcosm) would reflect the outer world (macrocosm).2
1 In fifteenth-century Italy, the studio was a room reserved for retreat and scholarly
pursuits, furnished with ancient and modern art. See Wolfgang Liebenwein, Studiolo: Die
Entstehung eines Raumtyps und seine Entwicklung bis um 1600 (Berlin, 1977); L. Cheles, Tfie
Studiolo ofUrbino:An Iconographic Investigation (University Park.Pa., 1986), 22—5.
2 There is an extensive literature on the history of collecting. I list here some of the more
important studies. Their bibliographies should be consulted for other related publications
and articles.
J. von Schlosser, Die Kunst- und Wunderkammern der Spätrenaissance (Leipzig, 1908); B. J.
Balsiger, 77)6' Kunst- und Wunderkammern:/! Catalogue Raisonne of Collecting in Germany,
France, and England, 1565-1750 (PhD dissertation, University of Pittsburgh, 1970); Elisabeth
Scheicher, Die Kunst-und Wunderkammern der Habsburger (Vienna, 1979); The Origins of
Museums: The Cabinet of Curiosities in Sixteenth- and Seventeenth-Century Europe, ed. Oliver
Impey and Arthur MacGregor (Oxford, 1985); K. Pomian, Der Ursprung des Museums vom
Sammeln (Berlin, 1988); Paula Findlen, 'The Museum: Its Classical Etymology and Renaissance Genealogy',_/OHrna/ of the History of Collections, i (1989): 59-78; A. Lugli, !\~aturalia et
mirabilia: II collezionismo enciclopedico neue IVunderkammern d'Europa (Milan, 1990); K. Pomian,
Collectors & Curiosities: Paris and Venice, 1500—1800 (Venice, 1990); 77«? Agc of the Marvelous
(exh. cat.; Hannover, N.H., 1991); Distant Worlds Made Tangible: Art and Curiosities; Dutch
[2]
ANNEMARIE JORDAN
GSCHWEND
Their origins can be traced to the medieval treasury, or Schatzkammer,
where jewels, regalia, gold plate, rieh textiles, ivories and tapestries were
accumulated by ecclesiastics and kings. Often objects of rarity—unicorn
horns, vessels made of rock crystal and other precious stones, reliquaries and
antiquities (ancient cameos and portrait busts) were included for their
technical virtuosity and splendour. To the medieval mind, artefacts were
endowed with an innate meaning, especially valued for their miraculous
properties.3 According to medieval aesthetics, art and nature reflected the
ideal beauty of God, and the relations of natural and artificial phenomena
were rationalized through symbol and allegory.
In 1565 a Flemish physician, Samuel Quiccheberg, set out the organization of an ideal collection, based upon Pliny's Historia naturalis,in his Inscriptiones vel tituli theatri amplissimi (Munich, 1565). The Kunstkammer should be
divided into several categories, clasr.es and subclasses, with a hierarchy of
high-quality objects,natural and artiücial, arranged according to their materials and in a logical sequence. Quiccheberg then applied the current notion
of Giulio Camillo's memory theatre,4 a theatrum sapientiae. Accordingly, this
theatre of the world, in all its variety, was hermetically contained in one
space, its Contents decided by diversity, abundance, the irregulär, the odd and
the uncommon. His treatise defmed for the first time Kunstkammer (a chamber for artistic objects) and Wunderkammer (a repository for extraordinary
objects), terms that were already in circulation, but more frequently used in
later centuries.
According to Quiccheberg, a collection and its objects both defmed and
justified the Status, role, and character of the owner, the quality of an art
work and its appreciation formmg a reflection of the honour of the owner.
For these reasons, the collector engaged skilful artists in his Service to fulfill
commissions, staging festivals, triumphs and ceremonials to further promote
his power and image. For Quiccheberg, a collection was the microcosm of
the outside world symbolically possessed, controlled and understood by the
owner, in which objects belonging to a certain tradition of collecting were
selected to exemplify the owner's knowledge, power and Status.
Collections, 1585-1735 (exh. cat.; Amsterdam, 1992); T. DaCosta Kaufmann, Tlie Mastery of
Nature: Aspects of Art, Science, and Humanism in the Renaissance (Princeton, 1993); H. Bredekamp, Antikensehnsucht und Maschinenglauben: Die Geschichte der Kunstkammer und die Zukunft
der Kunstgeschichte (Berlin, 1993); and T. DaCosta Kaufmann,'From Treasury to Museum:
The Collections of the Austrian Habsburgs'.in Tlie Cultures of Collecting, ed. J. Eisner and R.
Cardinal (London, 1994), 137-54.
3 Alan A. Shelton/Cabinets of Transgression: Renaissance Collections and the Incorporation of the New World', in The Cultures of Collecting, 175—203.
4 FrancesYates, The Art of Memory, and ead., The Theatre of the World (Chicago, 1969).
THE K U N S T K A M M E R OF CATHERINE OF A U S T R I A
[3]
It is in this context that I should like to discuss the collection of the
Portuguese queen, Catherine of Austria (i507-1578).Born in Torquemada,
Spain, she was the youngest (and posthumous) daughter of Philip the Fair
and Juana la Loca, betrothed in 1524 to King John III of Portugal (1521—
!557)- F°r scholars concerned with Habsburg patronage, the role of the
fernale collectors of the family has been paid far less attention, except in
the case of the regent of the Netherlands, Margaret of Austria (d. 1530).The
primacy of the male members of the house (Charles V, Philip II, Archduke
Ferdinand of Tyrol, Rudolf II) äs Renaissance patrons and collectors has
always been readily acknowledged, while the women who were notable
collectors have suffered ironic fates at the hands of art historians. Despite
many studies in recent years dedicated to Austrian and Spanish royal collections, scholars have remained unaware of Catherine of Austria's activities.
The collection of Flemish tapestries,courtportraits,precious objectsjewels,
exotica, furniture, plate, and books she amassed was amazingly large, carefully organized, and assiduously assembled over the course of fifty years. The
result, unfortunately no longer extant, compares in varying degrees of content and size with contemporary Habsburg collections in Madrid, Brüssels,
Vienna, and Innsbruck. A vast body of documents, largely unpublished, of
inventories, correspondence, patent-letters, mandates, and receipts record
her collection.
In 1525 Catherine came to Portugal armed with Flemish tapestries,
illuminated manuscripts, family jewels, and a lavish wardrobe, the requisite
dowry of a Castilian princess destined to be queen. These personal goods
that formed the nucleus of her collection evolved into one that later clearly
defmed her social and political position, reflecting a particular hierarchy and
symbolism. As a foreign-born queen, Catherine used her possessions to
create her own identity at the Portuguese court. Shortly after her arrival
sometime between 1525 and 1528, Catherine began collecting imported
wares, gems, and jewelry from India and the Far East, which were available
there in great supply. A System that allowed her to purchase directly overseas
was organized, and Portuguese viceroys in India were recruited to obtain
goods for her. One of her court goldsmiths was sent to reside in Goa for
a number of years with the primary responsibility of obtaining the best
gems and Indian and Ceylonese jewelry available for regulär shipment to her
inLisbon.To citebut one of many instances,in 1551 the treasurer of Cochin
bought for the Queen a jewel niade in India, set with seven emeralds, four
rubies, and eight pearls. Her fortunate access to these exotic wares was
widely known and often members of her Habsburg family asked her to
obtain for them exotic animals (like parrots and elephants) for their royal
[4]
ANNEMARIE
JORDAN GSCHWEND
menageries and other rarities such äs bezoar (a hardened substance found in
the stomachs of camels and prized for its magical powers).
Judging both from the quantity of objects and from their excellent quality, Catherine of Austria amassed the largest collection of non-European
objects in Europe before the mid-sixteenth Century,and only later Habsburg
rulers—Philip II, Archduke Ferdinand of Tyrol and Rudolf II—formed
comparably important collections of'Indian' objects. Catherine's acquisition of luxury objects from the Portuguese colonies (äs in naturalia and
handmade objects or artißdalia) underscored her position äs queen of an
overseas empire, a unique position for a woman of her time and one she was
evidently proud of. Her collection was the first significant Renaissance
Kunstkammer in Iberia. It bridged two collecting traditions: her dowry, a late
fifteenth-century treasury, evolved into a prototypic collection of curiosities
with primarily precious and rare objects from the Orient. She was unsystematic in approach and organization, and her collection lacked the scientific understanding evident in later curiosity cabinets. There is no evidence
of an intellectual, didactic, or instructional purpose. A degree of personal
capriciousness must be acknowledged, however, for her Kunstkammer was
not just an assemblage of curios. She frequently indulged in her 'shopping
sprees' and with a great deal of financial investment, displayed a persistency
which can be judged äs systematic. As a collector she was consistent in her
procurement of eastern products, and her collection can be described like
that of Ferdinand of Tyrol, äs containing 'natural specimens and exotica
from overseas with artißdalia, things made by man, that could be described äs
exhibiting Kunst' .5
Her inventories from 1528 to 1570 record in detail the curiosity objects
found in other contemporary collections. Many examples fall under the
category of naturalia. Some had amuletic or magical properties: two 'scorpion's tongues' (fossilized sharks' teeth); a snake's head encased in gold, used äs
an antidote for poison; two heart-shaped jasper stones used to staunch
blood; a coral branch to ward off the evil eye; the root of a peony encased
in gold, which functioned äs a prophylactic; enormous quantities of assorted
loose gems and stones (diamonds, rubies, cat's eyes, sapphires, emeralds,
turquoise) and a 'unicorn's hörn' (a narwhal tusk, considered a symbol of
Christ).
Under the category of artißdalia, Catherine owned diverse mirabilia, or
precious relics (a remnant of the medieval Schatz) thought to produce
miracles: a piece of rock from the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem; the hat of St
s
Kaufmann,'From Treasury to Museum', 142.
THE K U N S T K A M M E R OF CATHERINE OF AUSTRIA
[5]
Leonard to aid in childbirth; a reliquary containing the monies paid to
betray Christ; rosaries with cameos, depicting scenes of the Passion of
Christ (perhaps carved prayer nuts), others made with coral beads or cherry
stones filled with amber; a relic of St Eusebius and a gold St Andrew's cross
with the image of the saint, set with five large table-cut diamonds. Even two
Indian crystal statuettes wearing gold crowns, collars, and bracelets referred
to äs ydolos (idols) were listed.
Exotic objects classified äs artißdalia mcluded an Indian crystal elephant
(illustrated on the cover of this Bulletin) and dog mounted äs saltcellars,
Ceylonese ivory combs and chests encrusted with rubies and other gems,
a mother-of-pearl ewer, a gold filigree Indian 'bug', a gold Statuette of
a donkey laden with filigree baskets stuffed with assorted gems, small tortoiseshell caskets, and a lapis-lazuli vase. For example, in 1556 Catherine
purchased for her menagerie a parrot with a cage (one of many she owned),
and in the same year received a belt made in India, consisting of 34 pieces
encrusted with small diamonds, rubies, and emeralds, with a large ruby-andemerald clasp. An Indian necklace purchased in 1552 was set with 400
diamonds. Two black and gilt wooden folding chairs and four ivory fans were
obtained from China in 1562,sent to Lisbon via Goa. Also enumerated in her
documents were countless purchases of bezoar, musk, and civet (a gland of
a cat-like animal used for making a musk-like scent) either for medicmal
purposes or äs aphrodisiacs; agate and crystal Utensils inlaid with precious
stones (to ward off the effects ofpoison); Chinese gold and silver buttons and
silk for clothes; tortoiseshell plates and bowls;Japanese lacquerware; IndoPortuguese chess boards and furniture; and mounted coconut shells.
Curiously, Catherine of Austria did not seek out art works from Italy,
which were accumulated in great quantities by contemporaries. She did not
collect antiquities, medals, coins, bronzes, or large-scale sculpture (ancient or
Renaissance copies). Nor drawings, significant paintings, religious or otherwise, except royal portraits and retables, which were probably Luso- or
Hispano-Flemish in origin. African objects such äs the Afro-Portuguese
saltcellars, oliphants, and horns avidly sought by curiosity collectors and seen
in abundance at the Lisbon court during the previous reigns of John II
(1481-1498) and Manuel I (1498-1521) were not collected. Evidently, her
tastes did not lean in these directions. She was defmitely not a connoisseur
of painting, her objectives contrasting greatly with those of other female
collectors like Isabella d'Este.
Her Kunstkammer and wardrobe were located within her quarters in the
Lisbon royal palace, in a suite of up to three small rooms with an adjoinmg
library, like an Italian studiolo, intended for private viewing with some ob-
[6]
ANNEMARIE JORDAN GSCHWEND
jects kept in storage (locked trunks), others possibly set out on tables. Great
importance was given to its maintenance, and its administration remained
under the direct and personal supervision of the queen. During the 15505
Catherine's collecting activities became more public and moved to the
queen's hall where fetes and entertainments were held. It appears that she
became preoccupied with the decoration of the public and private spaces
normally reserved for the ruler and male courtiers, and ofthose designated
for women. Dynastie ties were reaffirmed by her formation of a large
portrait gallery during the 15 505, the majority of the pictures being painted
by Anthonis Mor, who was sent from Brüssels exclusively for this purpose,
and by the quantity of Flemish tapestries she owned (from her dowry and
later frequent purchases), which decorated these halls and thematically represented her links with her Burgundian and Habsburg heritage.
Her family consciousness is further evidenced by her 1577 testament, in
which relics formerly belonging to Emperor Maximilian I, sent to her from
the chapel of Wiener Neustadt, were selected from her Kunstkammer to
remain forever in the Portuguese royal treasury. This was a move to institutionalize at least a part of her collection, select objects with some hierarchical significance (personal and dynastic), and safeguard them for future
generations. She also bequeathed her most important papers and inventories
to the heir, King Sebastian, for his use or for future Queens of Portugal,
perhaps in Imitation of her brother Emperor Ferdinand I, who did the same
in 1565 with prized possessions of the Habsburgs. The accumulation of
these ancestral relics show her ties and devotion to the Habsburg dynasty, in
part brought about because in Catherine's eyes the prestige of the Avis royal
house was enhanced by its relationship — artistic and political—to the Habsburgs. Both royal houses were closely allied through several decades of
marital alliances, and at her Lisbon court she represented the political and
social interests of both famüies by the exchange of gifts, heirlooms, and
relics, and by the acquisition of specific objects symbolic of a family and/or
dynastic collective.
Exoticism and a Burgundian love of display marked Catherine of Austria's collecting and also innuenced ceremonial practiced at the Portuguese
court during her reign. An account, Nanatione particolare delle gran feste
e trionß fatti in Portogallo et in Fiandra . . . (Bologna, 1576), written by
Francesco de' Marchi, describes the marriage ceremonies of Alexander
Farnese and Mary of Portugal celebrated in 1565, during which there was an
opulent dinner offered by Catherine of Austria in her quarters.6 The food
6
G. Bertini, 'O "Livro de cozinha" de Maria de Portugal e a cozinha de corte em
THE K U N S T K A M M E R OF C A T H E R I N E OF A U S T R I A
[7]
and spices served were said by the author to have come from all corners of
the Portuguese empire.'Not even Roman banquets in antiquity had so many
products brought from such distances.' The waters served at these functions
came from the Ganges, from a river in the Moluccas, from other rivers and
lakes in Africa and Asia, even from the Tiber, which the Portuguese court
judged äs,'la piü perfetta et eccellente acqua ehe sia al mondo'. Oriental
porcelain and plate was used to serve the food and the ostentatious display of
these wares on buffets and credenze in the palace halls showed off the splendour of the queen and her court.
In a recent essay on Central European Kunstkammern, Thomas DaCosta
Kaufmann outlines the motivations behind these collections.7 He emphasized the 'cultural politics' and ethic of magnificence fundamental to these
Habsburg collectors. This was also true of private collections like that of
Rudolf II. Regardless of the levels of accessibility, collecting and ceremonial
were tied, with the reputation of a collector and/or his collection extending
beyond territorial boundaries. From his essay it is clear that there are similarities between the objectives and patterns of collecting by male members
of the Habsburg house during the sixteenth Century and those of some
female members like Catherine of Austria.
A collection (no matter how large or how many objects it contained)
must be understood in terms of its symbolic content. Not a mere microcosm, it resembled the world itself; a cosmic view that could advance the
political claims of the owner. In the case of Rudolf II, his Kunstkammer in
Prague represented the emperor's symbolic mastery of the world, the idea of
representatio its principle message.
This analogy could be applied to Catherine of Austria, no less conscious
of her image äs Habsburg infanta and Queen of Portugal. The implications
of her Kunstkammer seem explicit—her collection of Oriental rarities was
a visible Symbol of her political position and magnificence at the Lisbon
court. By the mid-sixteenth Century, Portugal had reached the height of
overseas explorations and conquests, dominating the scientific advancements made in the previous decades in geography, cartography, astrology and
navigation. The imperial concept of dominus mundi (emperor of the eastern
and western worlds) and cosmological imagery (the armillary sphere, emblem of the Portuguese kings) were promoted through specific artistic
commissions. A number of Flemish tapestries in Catherine's collection
Bruxelas e em Lisboa ao tempo das suas nüpcias com Alexandre Farnesio', Occanos, 21 (Jan.
1995): 119-25.
7 'From Mastery of the World to Mastery of Nature: The Kunstkammer, Politics, and
Science,' Tlie Mastery of Nature, 1993, eh. 7, pp. 174-94.
[8]
ANNEMARIE JORDAN GSCHWEND
promulgated this cosmic symbolism. The cycles of the Conquests oflndia and
Romulus and Remus emphasized the founding of a new empire and a new
Rome; the Conquest of Tunis showed victory over the infidels; the Months of
the Years symbolized control over nature and the seasons; and the Spheres
(terrestrial, armillary, and celestial) depicted Catherine of Austria and her
husband äs the mythological figures Juno and Jupiter. All hung in the royal
palace, which also housed the king's magnificent library, filled with globes,
maps, portulans, accounts, and books relating to the Age of Discovery and
Exploration.
Catherine of Austria, by means of her exotic objects, was brought into
closer contact with other worlds separated from her by geographical distance, but nevertheless under her control. Given the wealth of the inventories and her care in acquiring objects, it is evident that she viewed her
Kunstkammer, not äs a theatre of the worid guided by scientific principles,
but äs a reflection of power and rule, her personal mastery of the world.
Imperial iconography was äs significant for the Avis family äs it was for the
Habsburgs—Austrian and Spanish.
SUGGESTED READING
Samuel Quiccheberg
Elisabeth Scheicher,'Die Rolle der Theoretiker im Sammlungswesen des 16. Jahrhunderts', in Die Kunst- und Wunderkammern der Habsburger (Vienna, 1979),
68-71.
P. Falguieres, 'Fondation du theatre ou methode de l'exposition universelle: Les
Inscriptions de Samuel Quicchelberg (1565)', Les Cahiers du Musee National d'Art
Moderne,^ (1992): 91-115.
E. Schulz, 'Notes on the History of Collecting and of Museums', Journal of the
History of Collections, 2 (1990): 205-18.
D.J.Jansen,'Samuel Quiccheberg's"Inscriptiones":De encyclopedische verzameling als hulpmiddel voor de wetenschap', in Verzamelen van Rariteitenkabinet tot
Kunstmuseum (Heerlen, 1993), 57-92.
Tlie Collection and Patronage of Catherine of Austria
Annemarie Jordan,'Catherine of Austria and a Habsburg Relic for the Monastery
of Valbemfeito, Obidos', Journal of the History of Collections, i (1990): 187-98.
,'A Crystal Elephant from the Kunstkammer of Catherine of Austria',Jahrbuch
der Kunsthistorischen Sammlungen in Wien, 87 (1991): 121-6.
,'A Capela-Mor: Um panteäo real para a dinastia de Avis\Jeronimos: Quatro
Seculos de Pwfura^exh. cat.; Lisbon, 1992), 70-90.
-,'Catarina de Austria: Colecfäo e Kunstkammer de uma Princesa Renascentista', Oceanos, 16 (Dec. 1993): 62-70.
[9]
, 'The Development of Catherine of Austria's Collection in the Queen's
THE K U N S T K A M M E R OF CATHERINE OF A U S T R I A
Household: Its Character and Cost' (PhD dissertation,Brown University, 1994).
, Retmto de Corte em Portugal: O Legado de Antonio Moro (1552—1572) (Lisbon,
1994),Metaphors ofPrincely Magnificence: Flemish Tapestries in Portuguese Royal Collections (forthcoming).
Portuguese Royal Collections
Susan Davidson, African Ivories from Portuguese Domains: Symbols of Imperial Rule
in European Courts, 1462-1650 (Master's thesis, George Washington University,
1985).
Annemarie Jordan, Portuguese Royal Collections, (1505-1580): A Bibliographie and
Documentary Survey (Master's thesis, George Washington University, 1985).
Habsburg Collections and Patronage
•
Alphons Lhotsky, Die Geschichte der Sammlungen, I: Von den Anfängen bis zum Tode
Kaiser Karls VI. 1740 (Vienna, 1941-5).
H. Trevor-Roper, Princes and Artists: Patronage and ideology at four Habsburg courts,
1517-1633 (NewYork, 1974).
FrancesYates, Astrea: The Imperial Theme in the Sixteenth Century (London, 1975).
T. DaCosta Kaufmann,'Remarks on the Collections of Rudolf II: The Kunstkammer
äs a form of Representatio', Art Journal, 37 (1978): 22—8.
S. Alfons/The Museum äs Image of the World', in The Archimboldo Effect: Transformations ofthe Facefrom the Sixteenth to the Twentieth Century (Milan, 1979), 67-85.
M. Morän and F. Checa, El Coleccionismo en Espana: De la cämara de maravillas a la
galeria depinturas (Madrid, 1985).
T. DaCosta Kaufmann, The School of Prague: Painting at the Court of Rudolf II
(Chicago, 1988).
Die Kunst am Hofe Rudolfs II. (Hanau, 1988).
Prag um 1600: Kunst und Kultur am Hofe Rudolfs II. (Freren, 1988).
Prag um 1600: Beiträge zur Kunst und Kultur am Hofe Rudolfs II. (Freren, 1988).
Fernando Checa, Felipe II: Mecenas de las Artes (Madrid, 1992).
Maria van Hongarye: Koningin tussen keizers en kunstenaars, 1505-1558 (Utrecht, 1993).
Sabine Tischer, Tizian und Maria von Ungarn: Der Zyklus der 'pene infernali' auf
Schloss Einehe (1549) (Berne, 1994).
D. Eichberger and L. Beaven, 'Family Members and Political Allies: The Portrait
Collection of Margaret of Austria,' Art Bulletin (June 1995), 225-48.