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There have been all kind of polls about what O-Gauge track is most popular and why, but when the pavement meets the road, it is more important as to what you use and why.
These questions were prompted as I was recently asked as to what track we were planning to use for our new layout. I have used tubular track since I was a kid with great success. Once down and tested, there has never been a problem with it. It is as reliable as the number of years it has been in service.
In 1996 when I got back in to the hobby with both feet, I was introduced to Johnson roadbed that mates so nicely to tubular track. Not only does it improve the looks of the track, it has super sound deafening qualities.
Since I have a ton of it and since it has worked so well for me in the past, I see no need of changing it to another track system. Switches, well that's another story. I have used Lionel 0-72 switches (new era) and don't like them. They will be replaced by Ross switches.
Tell us what you use and why, I am sure that many can learn from your experiences as there are some really wonderful track products now available.
This photo shows tubular track with Johnson roadbed.
I use Gargraves track and Ross switches because they both support the modular club I belong to and both are great guys.
I learned a few years ago that good riding buddy of mine was a roomate of the Johnson roadbed guy when they were in college.
My friend is not a train guy so I never got the back story on Johnson and his business.
I went with Atlas steel years ago. At the time I wanted to run postwar and modern on the layout, and wanted the advantage of magne-traction. My interests changed over time, and I became more interested in scale items, sometimes with O-scale wheels, and the Atlas track works well with the smaller flanges. It's been very dependable and adaptable track system for me.
I use tubular 027 track. Reason?
About a year back, I tinted the windows on a friends car here. (I was a pro for 30 years)
He paid me in Lionel! Serious! He gave me the Ballyhoo Bros. Circus train, a X1110 Scout, some rolling stock and tons of track!
The original count was 95 straight, 48 curved. All 027.
Never had any problems with it. Just tighten up the pins and connectivity is good. A few spots I have had to run a jumper from the lockon or soldered connection to curved areas where the trains slow down.
That has cured that problem.
I use the foam roadbed from Hobbylinc.com. http://www.hobbylinc.com/woodland-t...cale-o-scale-model-train-track-roadbed-st1473
(Infact, they used my pics on their page for this product)
I find it extremely easy to use. Curves do need for you to split the roadbed down the center and use the two piece method.
But the decibel drop is fantastic. Oh, there's no completely silencing an O scale train!
But the difference between attaching to plywood and to the foam roadbed is incredible.
I started out with O27 (Lionel and K-Line), but I went with Gargraves flex track back in the mid 80s since it was a lot less expensive than O27 at the time…not sure if that’s still true. I like the wooden ties and the fact that you can bend it to any diameter. I have never had any problems with continuity. The original (1980’s) track is still on the layout. I use mostly Gargraves and a few Ross switches. The Ross switches are better, but also much more expensive.
Lately I have installed both Gargraves and Ross sectional track at a few locations. I wanted exactly O72 in a few locations and I wanted exactly O32 and O36 in a few others. The flex track can be a pain to bend to the smaller diameters.
I used some of the old O27 for a trolley loop. The trolley has scale wheels and kept derailing at one spot on the tubular track so I changed that curve to Gargraves.
I use Atlas track. The reasons are:
- It looks reasonably realistic
- It's a good solid track, well made, and easy to install with the end clips, etc.
- Solid rail is both quieter and conductors electricity better, also easier to solder (I solder all joints)
- Flextrack - 85% of my track is flextrack. It is easy to install and fits anywhere because I can make it any curve diameter I want.
I use tubular track. I like the classic toy look of it, and as Brian said, it's very reliable. Everything I have except for 2 Lionel scale locos will run on it, and it's easy to make custom cut sections, so for me it's a winner all the way around. I'm running mostly prewar Lionel, so Ross switches are out unfortunately. For switches, I've gone to Lionel fastrack, and so far so good. The only other O Gauge track I'd consider is Lionel T Rail, but it's expensive.
John, There is a guy in Canton, MA by the name of Marty Visnick who has a ton of T track. He goes to York and is in the Red building. I have his email if you want it.
This question does come up often and for me I was just thinking about it last night while I was working on some major changes to my layout.
It would appear to me the track decision is based on what you have worked with. You learn all of the ins and outs of your track and after all of the years of working on your layout, changing track is not something most people want to do.
My original track was O27 and "after all of the years" I have learned the ins and outs. After spending countless hours with Lionel switches I did dump them and use Gargraves switches.
Here are my reasons.
1. Cost - inexpensive
2. Profile - very low and attractive
3. Ability to modify is excellent.
4. Conductivity - is perfect with soldered joints and soldered lead attachments.
In the below picture you will see modified O27 with 3R plastics ties and Gargraves switches. Adjacent to this is original O27 and Lionel switches which are now history and the entire area is modified O27 with Gargraves.
I like my tubular o. It's old , it works and it's what I remembered from childhood. I'm not into super realistic track or wisper quit trains. My road bed is cheap shingles , looks good but probably isn't quite. I did lay down some foam board over the plywood, so that helped a bit. The foam board was more to make slight grades more then sound dead inning.
Blue comet, what is lionel t rail? I never heard of it? Supper O
I started out with O gauge track, 031 curves and 022 switches in the late 1960's. I have been using O gauge tubular track for years with great success.
Lionel's switches 6-23010 & 23011 are total duds in my opinion.
Tried Fastrack but was hugely dis-appointed with it!! Tarnished super quick and very bad electrical connections. Traded off my Fastrack for an MTH PS-1 steam engine, in my opinion it was a very good deal!
So I am back to O gauge tubular with Gargraves track and Ross switches. Gargraves switches work great with Williams engines, Ross works great with MTH steam engines.
I use 027 track as well for elevated areas and around the top of the room layout.
I use either Moondog or 3R Plastic rubber ties under my O gauge and 027 track.
I have done an experimental thing with an old 027 switch that was going into the trash otherwise, I installed a DZ-1000 switch motor to the switch housing. Had to strip the old switch down to just the base, but it was missing too much to be salvageable otherwise. Works great and I can get much more through the 027 switch now because the Lionel solenoid housing is gone.
Interesting. My choice depends on what layout I have created. My home layout is Lionel Fastrack since I like the looks and once I got into placing 20+ turnouts in a small 8' x 11' layout I was into the Fastrack switches pretty heavy. I got most of them prior to the price going crazy. I then added the upper elevated rail using traditional tubular track. I have had some continuity issues on the Fastrack but nothing that a little cleaning and tweaking could not fix. I then have my All Aboard Fastracker squares so you know what that has and then I built some mini squares using O27 tubular.
My son got tired of me cutting myself on the tubular track and told me he liked the Fastrack better anyway so that is what moved me to it.
I used O-27 style track because I am cheap. One point I like compared to standard O was that it was lower and did not look as toy-like. I had no brand preference, price was more important. Switches/turnouts [whichever you prefer] are all K-Line O-42. Minimum curve is O-42. I did not paint rail sides, too much trouble for me. Track is ballasted except in tunnels.
I may have used Fastrack except for me it was too costly, especially the switches.
When my club started 32 years ago, it was built using a combination of tubular and Gargraves Track. The switches were Lionel 022 some of which were modified to other radiuses. over time the track was replaced with all Gargraves track. The switches were first changed to Gargraves. When Ross Curtis switches were introduced we started using them and then went to Curtis switches when Ross and Curtis split up and now we use all Ross switches.
Gargraves Flex Track is used because it is realistic, The wood ties also insulate the outer rail and the flex track allows us to put track where we want and not conform to standard radius. It is also very reliable our layout gets heavy use and the track has proven itself over many years.
Ross switches are used for their reliability as well as realistic look and large variety of types and sizes. We use Tortoise motors under the table. The lack of a visible motor adds to the realism and we have found the Tortoise Motors very reliable.
When I got back into O gauge in October 2014 I started from scratch. I went with FasTrack because it was readily available and looked good. I significantly reduced the noise by putting carpet padding under the track. I'm moving soon and will start a new layout and will probably stick with FasTrack since I have 10 remote controlled O36 switches and generally like the track.
O-31 tubular track: Retro looks, economical, nostalgic sound. O-22 type switches can be had for cheap and function flawlessly after servoguy's tune-up is applied. I use 5132/33, mainly because I prefer the controller colored lenses to the painted bulbs.
O gauge tubular. I changed over, for a brief period to Atlas, 21st century track. I didn't care for it much, since I was running carpet layouts, and couldn't keep it together. So I sold it off and repurchased a ton and a half of tubular. Now i have much too much, and it sits in boxes.
I've used them all. Started out with tubular track and switches. Then Gargraves and ROW switches, which were junk. Then Gargraves and Curtis switches which was pretty good but I did not like the designe of the layout so I wanted to start over.
I decided on Ross Track and switches for the new layout and it has worked out great. I'm not sure if it was the design of the layout or just luck but I only had to cut four pieces of the track on the entire layout.
I used black wire ties to attach the track to the homosote over plywood base and it has worked out great. There is virtually no noise.
I've been using fastrack since around 2007. We found it to be more reliable on my theater display than the O-27 I had used previously. Mainly it provided protection from the fibers of the cotton snow material we use on the Christmas display at the theater. Unfortunately it's a lot louder than I'd like. Some of the organists playing the theater organ, which has it's console located right next to the display complain about the noise. Luckily the theater has stuck with my side of things over the years and it hasn't been a huge issue.
I've been having issues with some of the die-cast pins breaking on a few pieces this year which aren't available as spare parts from Lionel, but as long as connections are tight, I run enough power feeds that it hasn't been much of an electrical issue.
Since I run a carpet layout, I use Lionel FasTrack system. Very reliable. Would definitely recommend this track system.
I have always liked Lionel tubular track and wanted a layout that used it. Once I have a permanent table layout, it will be Lionel tubular with Ross tinplate switches.
I wanted reliability, so when I started to buy track many years ago I went with Ross because it was considered the best. It still is in my opinion. However, for my double track mainline curves, I'm using Atlas track because I can get smooth parallel curves with 4.5 inch center-to-center separation. I was finding Ross/Gargrave's 4 inch distance a little too tight for my larger engines. Ross and Atlas mate together fairly easily, Gargraves and Atlas less so.
I prefer to use the Atlas track joiners instead of the Atlas adapter pins because the joiners make a much more solid connection. The joiners work well with Ross switch/track, just cut the stringers on the last tie of the Ross switch and move the tie back a little. The joiner fits nicely.
This is not the case with Gargraves. With Gargraves you have to cut the bottom flange's off that hold the rail to the tie before you can use the Atlas rail jointer. Much more labor intensive.
Fast track for the Christmas carpet central because it is easy to use, stays together, and keeps any potential dirt off of our antique Persian carpet. Don't like the noise but address it by running modern can motored locomotives at relatively slow speeds.
For our permanent O gauge layout, we use Lionel O gauge track, postwar switches (O-31 and O-72 turns) and K line switches (for the 42 inch turns). I have found traditional O gauge track to be reliable and I like how it looks when additional ties are utilized. I also like the switches for the same reason, and at this point I have too much of it to switch without spending a small fortune.
For my layout which will be trolley; hand-laid to a specific plan of my choosing (not mine but this is representative of what it will be):
* D. C. = Dirty Carpet
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