Everything I Upsized in 2022
In 2022, I upsized 22 (-ish, may have forgotten a couple) fragrances that I had previously sampled, so excluding any reckless untested buys that worked out anyway. Mostly I upsized to FS bottles, but I also started buying some chonks to keep my collection more manageable, and found this works really well for fragrances I like but probably won’t wear more than once a month or so. Full descriptions are below and will review anything on request, but a summary-
Top Brands
Possets were by far my favourite brand of the year. After falling hard for Barbara Villiers from the 2021 Valentines release, I upsized it in 2022 and ordered dozens more samples throughout the year across every release to see what else I had been missing out on. What I found is that my success rate isn’t actually that high with Possets, but when one of their fragrances works, it does to me whatever Calvin Klein’s Obsession For Men apparently does to big cats. I mostly loved Possets for big dramatic gothy fragrances, but then I also upsized Madame X, which is an unexpectedly “ooh, you smell nice” kind of work-friendly fragrance parked right in the middle of all my absolutely NSFW incensey Possets perfumes.
Beyond that, Poesie sneaked up on me with some cheeky sleeper hits (and I actually went on to upsize Villa Diodati and Black Cat Cuddles in 2023), and BPAL remained a consistent favourite. I would have upsized at least twice as many BPAL fragrances, but missed out on some limited editions. They were Womb Furie 2022 and Triumphant Vulva, so may actually be a blessing in disguise, since I’d have worn them all the time, and when you’re wearing a fragrance with a name like Triumphant Vulva, you can guarantee that everyone will suddenly need to know the name of that lovely perfume you’re wearing.
Top Three Smells of the Year
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Possets - Nefertiti and Ankhenaten
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Possets - Bar Sinister
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Possets - 3:5:8
Top Three Smells of the Year That Aren’t From Possets
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BPAL - Boomslang
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TSS - God of the Lost
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D&F - The Sweater
(This was quite a hard decision, so I went with the three I’ve been wearing the most, but I had a lot of big hits over the year)
And descriptions of everything-
Poesie
Eat Me (peach lavender cake with a marshmallow frosting dotted with red currants)
Athena (sun-baked Mediterranean herbs and earth, a rich and resinous vanilla spiked with a complex blend of incense and spice, exquisite grey musk)
Possets
Barbara Villiers (Egyptian Red Musk with a dusting of darkest and somewhat bitter chocolate, a nice smooth amber, a tiny bit of orange zest, and a light light infusion of mint)
3:5:8 (the darkest of all black musks, a gleaming DRY smokey vanilla, a very light dusting of precious jasmine, finally a light version of night blooming cereus and a wild incense which is like the lovechild of nag champa, high and dark)
Mayan Queen Bloodletting Sacrifice (incense smoke, copal resin, red fruit rich in iron scent, and the background of cacao and jungle atmosphere of greenery)
Madame X (skin musk, wax, cream, lemon zest, champagne, and a kiss of bitter vanilla)
Nefertiti and Ankhenaten (sweet sticky golden amber, a sugared spikenard, green patchouli, and a drop of yellow musk, mixed together with a skin of henna and a measure of sandalwood)
Bar Sinister (green Bourbon vanilla extract, sweetbriar, a powerful green musk, and a very highly refined leather, a background of labdenum, and a high and intoxicating silk accord)
Lachrymosa (salty tears, what else would one think of, the bitterness of loss, the pain of a broken heart. A whiff of smoke, salt, oxygen (a mineral airy scent), and a bit of embalming spice) (not pictured)
Crow & Pebble
Prismatic Crow (soft woods, dark forest fruits, dry pine needles, juniper branches, rosemary and a wisp of smoke)
Astrid
Monarch’s Farewell (blood orange, myrrh, dried leaves, pear, black pepper, vanilla, cider, cream, and amber)
Solstice Scents
Sea of Grey (vanilla rain, saltwater, seaweed, ambergris (vegan), white amber, roasted seashells, white sandalwood, frangipani)
BPAL
Boomslang (Snake Oil with cocoa, teakwood, and rice milk)
Asp Viper (Snake Oil with King mandarin, myrrh, and almond)
Nui Cobalt
Sacred Space (a misty, moss-covered glen, a simple wooden pagoda, steam from a cup of black tea, a tendril of incense smoke)
Meditation (smouldering frankincense and myrrh, copal, nag champa, white sandalwood, golden amber, a trace of Buddha wood and a wisp of oudh)
Death and Floral
The Sweater (a luscious blend of three different vanillas, resinous amber, Arabian sandalwood, a soft cashmere sweater)
With the Fishes and the Dead (black squid ink and mile long oceans. Black ambergris, black labdanum absolute, salty ocean water, and black pits of stretched out emptiness)
Damned Nightfall (the deepest and darkest amber blended with violets, black labdanum, vanilla absolute, espresso absolute, fresh cocoa beans, and honey)
The Strange South
God of the Lost (birch, mud, honey (vegan), pelting rain, and the hulking, faceless creature trailing your scent)
Caught Ye (plum blossom, fig, burnt sage, heather, clover, catnip, and ruffled hair)
Begotten (cracked earth, mandarin peel, marigold, pistachio, and willow leaf)
Curious about your impressions of Prismatic Crow!
It’s a really nice chilly forest scent! It’s got the same cold, sweet air impression as Death & Floral’s Half Hoping, but it’s a bit damper and mistier, and definitely has a bit more oomph as well (I love Half Hoping, but it is quite faint). Lots of notes I’m usually a bit suspicious about (don’t tend to gravitate towards fruity fragrances, smoke can be a bit iffy, juniper can be a bit medicinal), but they’re all really well balanced so it feels very outdoorsy.
I have nothing to contribute, just wanted to let you know that I absolutely love this post! What a nice way to reflect (:
Thank you! I like having a look back, I definitely go through cycles of liking certain brands or fragrance types, and I don’t even realise it at the time.
What a wonderful round-up! I wish I could show that kind of restraint. I'm weak when it comes to Astrid and Possets, and I own way too many scents from both.
Your comment about Madam X captures that scent perfectly. I get some nice comments whenever I wear it out and about.
I've had Posie's Athena on my ISO list for quite some time, I just never see it in swaps. I might just have to order it direct.
I think Astrid may be my weakness next year! I’ve never really got into them before, but their autumn and winter fragrance descriptions really appealed to me this year, and I also loved Sea Bones & Offerings (bought from Ajevie in their leftover sales, so not counted here).
And Athena is lovely, I requested it as a free sample when I bought Eat Me and upsized it straight away. It smells so warm and dry, I love using it when it’s raining and I feel a bit sad and soggy.
I am so glad I ordered a sample of 3:5:8, even though it sounds a bit outside of my comfort zone!
It’s definitely dramatic and a bit of a beast, but it’s lovely and well worth trying! I think it’s going to be my high-key summer night fragrance of choice this year.
I ordered a sample of it too! How would you describe yours?
I haven't received it yet! But I will let you know when I try it out!
What is your impression of Boomslang & Asp Viper? Long have I debated upon going after a bottle of these two Snake Oil variations...but have held back! I've heard they both can be very close to the skin sort of scents.
Boomslang is lovely. It’s very soft and smooth and milky, and a much more mellow and gentle take on Snake Oil. Having said that, although I really like it, I think you have to be looking for Snake Oil to know it’s there.. but I got my bottle before they brought back the rebooted Snake Oil, so that may be a factor (I don’t know whether it’s just me, but the SO flankers I bought after the reformulation are indeed much stronger and closer to the original). It’s a really nice and rich velvety cocoa and incense fragrance in its own right, just could be disappointing if you’re looking for more SO.
Asp Viper.. I loved my sample, but I think the bottle needs to age. The sample was like a cleaner, brighter take on Snake Oil, softened out with the almond. The bottle is OK, but it’s a bit astringent at the moment, though I’m happy to let it age and see what happens to it.
Thank you for these details! The new Snake Oil variation is definitely...something else LOL! I had SO samples that smelled quite different from the recent FS bottle I got, so I bet older scents with original SO are possibly more vanilla leaning, rather than the blackest, deepest patchouli one has ever beheld.
Boomslang is still very interesting to me, I definitely love different versions of Snake Oil (like Bobbing for Snake Oil, Womb Furie & Please Scream Inside Your Snake Oil. PSIYSO is what I wish regular Snake Oil was like, actually. More spiced vanilla, less aggressive patch!)
hi! love this round up i think it's so cool! but im so curious about what you think of Lachrymosa from possets and With the Fishes and the Dead from d&f! overall love how interesting and different these scents are!
I love both of those two, though they’re definitely a bit weird. Lachrymosa really does remind me of dried tears, it’s a slightly bitter and salty fragrance, and maybe a bit mineralic and airy too.
With The Fishes actually fits a similar niche for me, and I didn’t even realise it until you paired them together. It’s also bitter and and salty, but if Lachrymosa is silver, WTF&TD is definitely smells like it would be black. It’s dark and inky and murky, but in a very sniffable way.
I absolutely love this idea! And Monarch’s Farewell is so gorgeous, I was absolutely blown away by that scent ❤️ you have some great top picks :’)
Thank you, and definitely agreed on Monarch’s Farewell, it’s a lovely autumnal scent. Very excited to try more Astrid fragrances next year.
What a wonderful thing to celebrate! Damned Nightfall is one of my favorites C: How do you like God of The Lost? What does it smell like?
God of the Lost was a real surprise hit for me. I’d bought a sample probably at the end of 2021 (maybe even earlier), but it didn’t grab me in the vial and I didn’t get round to sampling it until near the end of 2022. It’s just a really simple, clean birch and honey fragrance, which is something I didn’t know I would go for until I tried it. It’s hard to review because that’s all there is to it on me, but I find the combination really lovely and calming.
that does sound wonderful!
I love this concept, and the way you presented it feels so...celebratory. I love it.
If it's no trouble, could I get your thoughts on Prismatic Crow and Damned Nightfall?
Thank you, I did feel pretty pleased with myself when I looked back and realised how many wins I’d had this year!
Damned Nightfall is a weird one, I used up and enjoyed my sample, but the bottle feels like it might need some time to age. Sample was a lot darker and stickier, like a very black violet with a big thump of dark resinous honey, so I hope the bottle matures a bit (it’s a perfectly nice fragrance now, but a bit lighter and almost slightly soapy).
Prismatic Crow (copied and pasted because I just wrote a quick review now) is a really nice chilly forest scent! It’s got the same cold, sweet air impression as Death & Floral’s Half Hoping, but it’s a bit damper and mistier, and definitely has a bit more oomph as well (I love Half Hoping, but it is quite faint). Lots of notes I’m usually a bit suspicious about (don’t tend to gravitate towards fruity fragrances, smoke can be a bit iffy, juniper can be a bit medicinal), but they’re all really well balanced so it feels very outdoorsy.
Thank you!
Prismatic Crow sounds even better than I'd hoped - I don't pull towards fruit a lot either. I'm glad you found so many things you enjoyed.
such a lovely post! I have samples of Athena and Bar Sinister on the way and you’ve made me extra excited to try them out!
I hope they work for you! I can’t even describe the notes I get from Bar Sinister, but it just hits all the right buttons for me. And Athena is so lovely and warm, I’m a big fan of fragrances that smell noticeably hot or cold.
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I'd love to hear your Lachrymosa review! I was searching for some here. Looks like we might have similar taste, I love Possets, Strange South and BPAL.