Solo Travel

Okay this is the third time I’ve written this blog. My iPod has been acting up much to my horror. Nothing would solidify my position in the pc camp faster then this baby dying  within the first year let alone the first month!

The honest truth, this is my first solo trip. As it comes to a close I’ve begun an honest reflection on how it went. Now before anyone protests I don’t count moving to a foreign county by myself as traveling alone. Starting a new life and vacationing are two very different ballgames. For instance when moving to a new country one always has the company of a previous contact who will bend over backwards helping one adjust and get their feet wet meeting new acquaintances etc. Now traveling on your own such a person is not provided. If one can not make acquaintances within hours the traveler is left to their own company with no chance of companionship. As my less than friendly disposition puts me in the latter camp I found my own company rather dull at times.

The following are merely observations gleaned from my week. They are in no ways snubs to previous travel companions only reflections.

Advantages:

•Decisions being unilateral are reached must faster as time for a consensus is unnecessary.

•Meals can be decidedly cheap or skipped altogether depending on the activity at hand with no cranky aftereffects.

•Abrupt changes in the planes are not met with frustrations.

•Getting on and off crowded buses is much much easier.

•There is no coaxing required when you wish the day to star at 7:30 to ensure short lines and plenty of sites.

•Retiring at 9:00pm is not met with jests of premature aging.

Drawbacks:

•If unable to make friends quickly one is left to entertain oneself the duration of the trip.

•When one forgets toilet paper or the stall door won’t close there is no one there to cover your backside, literally.

•A quick trip to the restroom, trashcan, counter etc requires lugging all your bags with you.

•When one falls into an indecisive mood one can end up standing at a bus stop watching numerous pass whilst looking like an idiot mulling over options in ones mind.

Now this is the part my mother would love to see the conclusion the advantages don’t outweigh the drawbacks thus is will be my first and last solo vacation. But in all honesty I don’t think I’ve reached a verdict. I’ve enjoyed the freedom of solo travel but at the same time I can understand the desire for a companion.

In future (like the British phrase) I’ll seek a travel companion where possible but won’t cancel on lack of one.

A full day…

The Bridge Market view from the center

Taking out my list I decided to start this morning with the Bridge Market Victoria told me about. She went with one of her students last year and was impressed with the variety of goods or to be more specific a special ingredient for family soups, opium pods. Her student had informed her it was illegal to add more then two to any dish but it was perfectly legal to add one or two. Victoria asked what would happen if someone added three. The student grew confused and said “but that’s against the law. Why would they do that?” Victoria just chuckled. “You’re right why would they do that?” The market is a large out door market that is located beneath five consecutive bridges. It has been held daily for decades And increases in size on the 7th and 9th of the lunar calendar. I went to find the market with high anticipation.

Yeah I'm pretty sure this is dog. I don't know any animal with teeth like that besides a dog.
So many delicious spices!
The final bridge was less crowded

I caught the 363 out to the middle of nowhere and quickly found the steep stairs I’d been warned about. I descended into the market via the seafood section and was assaulted with the accompanying aromas. I must admit I still giggle when I get hit by spitting clams, I’ll never say the same for spitting men though. A drawback of traveling alone is there is no one to make the best of dashed expectations with. The market lacked the unique old oriental atmosphere I had anticipated. I walked to the end rather quickly as without friends I’m no shopper and really had only gone for the atmosphere. Ah well. I did find the more interesting sections on my return trip on the far side. The meat stalls are always fascinating for one. I think I’ve seen my first skinned dog. I tried to take a picture discreetly but got q few laughs all the same. I only managed to stumble across the spice stalls at the end. I don’t know exactly what the pods looked like but I think I found them. I wish I knew my spices I wanted to buy some just fir the sake of it. I caught the bus back and decided to take. Break at the hostel before heading out for the afternoon.

The Governor's Mansion aka The Qingdao Guesthouse

I was having a hard time getting directions to the Governor’s Mansion unilateral I realized I’d been referring to it incorrectly. Only foreigners call it by that, the Chinese call it the Qingdao Guesthouse. It was officially changed by The Party soon after it had been confiscated by the “occupying German forces”. The Guesthouse was nestled on the side of Signal Hill deep within the German Quarter. It was used as a guesthouse for visiting Party officials throughout much of it’s history until it was turned into a museum and opened to the public in1999. It was constructed around 1907 and was turn into the Party’s guesthouse in the late 30’s.

Now doesn't that furniture just scream, PHOTO-OP!

The museum is an empty house containing a sprinkling of European furniture and an abundance of placards commemorating the various Party officials who resided there. As it was designed and constructed for German residents one is almost transported to a European residence then inevitably you are drawn back to China with the following commotion. Now only in China would a mother have the audacity to wave off a museum guard insisting her bare bummed child was justified in lounging on the roped off leather sofa for a photo-op. The guard obviously didn’t feel the photo-op worth his job but as he went for the child she darted around the room before crossing back over the rope to her mother. I had to stifle a laugh as the mother was leaning over the “Do Not Touch” sign. The poor guard was having a day and a half as only minutes later he was forced to approach a couple who having grown curious about a German made bureau were thoroughly examining it’s compartments. Ropes and signs have no sway with the Chinese tourist as again the “Do Not Touch the Cultural Relics” sign was inches from her head. Maybe we’ve been wrong all this time regarding the Chinglish signs. Maybe they are just as ambiguous and poorly worded in Chinese thus the general confusion and lack of observance on the part of the Chinese. That’s not to say it’s not terribly frustrating when a disobedient Chinese Tourist goes unnoticed while the offending foreigner seconds later is thoroughly castigated for not following the unintelligible signage.

This piano was manufactured by a first class master in Germany.
The Foyer was huge
Of course the plaque noting all the famous Party officials who have stayed here.

As I left the mansion I couldn’t help but feel the same forced effort at remembrance and immortalizing of the glorious beginning when I visit Party sites.

An interesting detail within the foyer
I didn't know what this was but as it was a German Governor's House, I'm going with Bomb Shelter
View of the Harbor from Signal Hill

As I had overestimated the time for visiting I found myself with practically an entire afternoon to spare. As I was already near the entrance to Signal Hill Park I decided to go. It had begun to sprinkle but soon stopped. As I ascended the Hill I enjoyed the breathtaking harbor views and gorgeous German Quarter that surrounds it. I found a secluded bench at the top to rest on until it started to rain. I rushed to the observatory to escape the rain, unfortunately I was just behind a group of Chinese Tourist. There are few things worse then being stuck behind heir tour group. They are always loud pushy impolite and never even try to hide the fact that you the foreigner are what they are taking a picture of. Really, come on at least I angle my camera towards the scenery I don’t point and laugh as if I’m at the zoo photographing the wildlife. The observation tower rotated so I sate through two rotations hoping to outlast the rain. I finally gave up and headed back down the hill.

Governor's Mansion from Signal Hill
Seven Dragon Fountain - based on a folklore
From the Observatory atop Signal Hill
Two of the three Observatories
The Old Protestant after the same architectural style as the Governor's Mansion

As the rain only continued to fall harder I sought refuge in the Protestant Church down the block. I climbed the bell tower in time to hear the bell strike five. As I walked the grounds I came across this sign and just had to laugh. What exactly it’s suppose to mean I don’t know but what it brings to my mind is not very pleasant “Religious activities were rehabilitated here in November 1980”.

The Original Bell

The rain finally began to subside so I headed downtown for dinner.
I went to my favorite restaurant for dinner, the Diner. I had a more than obliging waitress, Michelle, who called to confirm directions to an Indian restaurant for tomorrow evening for me. She even gave me explicit directions to the Golden Beach I have been told so much about. Dinner was delicious as always. Pasta carbonara with a side of French fries. I know pasta and French fries aren’t exactly kosher but their French fries are gourmet and I just couldn’t resist. I caught a bus back and turned in early yet again. I did manage to make an acquaintance. The occupant of the bunk opposite me asked to borrow my iPod charger. I suppose the rest all think I’m mute as I keep to myself.

Qingdao thus far

KaiYu Hostel - Great Location and always clean.

Thus far the trip has been wonderful. The train coming was on time, not crowded and clean. The weather was not what I had anticipated but really nothing to complain about. Leaving high humidity at 98*s for high 70*s and an ocean breeze isn’t going to kill me. I was hoping for a little more sun for tanning purposes but the week is still young.

I’d opted for a quiet week in Qingdao over Beijing as I wanted a relaxing week that didn’t require much mental exertion for getting around. I quickly reached the hostel and checked in. I swear they have me in the system tagged for bed G it’s the dorm bed they always give me. It’s a great bunk and I settled in to an empty dorm. I’ve discovered the perfect traveling bag, my big red one I packed for the day and set out to tackle my list of must-dos.

Jimo was first, Rolexes for Victoria and if I’m at Jimo it’s required I stop by Sunny’s so I picked up pearls for presents and actually showed some restraint for once and didn’t buy anything for me. I did stop by the perfume shop to get a bottle of Burberry Weekend. Katie had picked some up in Xi’an and I just loved it. I bought a Chinese burrito from a stand and for the first time contemplated the probability of food poisoning but my cast iron stomach seems to be doing fine still.

The Protestant Church over by Jimo

After my rather successful shopping trip I wandered around the old German neighborhoods and found the Protestant Church. In my opinion Christian churches in China always have a deserted feel even if they are in service.

The first real Graffiti I've seen in China
A path along the hill within the German Quarter
You never know what you will come across on a walk.
Beehives I stumbled across
Monument at May 4th Square


I walked down to the beach and caught a bus uptown. I stoped at May 4th Square and enjoyed people watching. The sun came out for a bit and I read.  I began to wonder if I’d been presumptuous in planning four days in Qingdao with no set itinerary. I’m always complaining I don’t see enough of Qingdao as a tourist spot but I don’t treat it as such and thus failed to do my homework. I began to worry I would get bored and stick to my usual spots. So I made a list of spots I’d wanted to visit in the past. That’s what I’ll do.

Water activities are a favorite in China - Every major square as some sort of activity
The site of the Olympic Sailing events in Qingdao

Last week I’d tried to give Brad directions to our favorite DVD store and so I went to see how off I was as they had been unable to find it. I felt terrible Was about five blocks off. For future reference it’s a block east of MyKal not Carrefour. I stopped by but as I wasn’t invited to the back room I saved my money and headed to the grocery store. I qued behind an Egyptian who was shopping for could only be a splendid meal. He offered an invitation, no Mom I didn’t accept. We chatted fir a while and he suggested a quite beach to the east near Lao Shan  for a pleasant day.

I bought Subway for dinner and headed back to May 4th Square to enjoy it.I returned early and read in the lounge for a while. Oh the ease of wi-fi I quickly discovered the wi-fi on the third floor and sent about an hour online. I’ve up until his point only appreciated my iPod for it’s offline features wi-fi this thing and you couldn’t pry it from my dead body.

I soon went to sleep with only one roommate in. Oh the wonders of a sleeping mask. I had been too lazy to retrieve my earplugs and paid for it as each other occupant returned.

Last night in Tibet

When we returned to Lhasa from Shigaze we return to the same hotel but new rooms. Our new room had a better view of the neighbors. We couldn’t exactly figure out what they were laying out in the sun but it was interesting to watch nonetheless.

View our our window. What are the neighbors doing?

Our final night in Lhasa we returned to the Snowflake Restaurant and I had a delicious Indian Chicken Masala. Oh how I miss good Indian food.

Katie and I did some last min shopping and I barely managed to stay within the my ridiculously generous budget. I had had no inclination to buy souvenirs as I was proud of the 1 backpack and 1 side bag I’d managed to pack everything in. Needless to say I ended up having to check a bag each flight after Tibet.

Ride to the Airport

 

Early the next morning we were headed to the airport for our departing flights. I must admit the view was spectacular as the early morning clouds had yet to lift.  

 I really wish I could take panoramic pictures on my camera. So many of the other point and shoots have it these days but I can’t find it if I do.

The mountains were beautiful in the morning, even if they were brown.

As beautiful as the scenery was it did not make up for the horrible airport that followed. Flying into an airport you really don’t get the feel of it. But spend several hours waiting to depart and you get your fill. There was no particular incident that claimed my dislike just the overall experience and lack of airport conveniences. I understand the relinquishing of liquids at security but does that call for the deprivation of all liquids once in the gate area. It took us over an hour to locate the Y10 half bottles for sale at the information desk. Really the information desk!? There were no snacks to be found and well it was a Chinese airport which just means aggravation from the start.

The only upside to our airport experience for the day is the following!

I can officially say I've been to Shang-Ri-La!

 

I even have a picture of the layover ticket to prove it!

 

After our lovely but rather short trip to Shang-Ri-La we caught a continuing flight to Kunming to catch our connecting flight to Lijiang.

Western Tibet and Shigatze

Tibet Day Three:
Today we headed to Shigatze the second largest city in Tibet.
 
Itinerary:
  • D 5: (B D)  Lhasa to Shigaze
  • Visit the the Yangzhuoyong Holy Lake on the way to Shigaze, you will admire the beautiful scenery on the way.  Overnight in Shigaze (3-4 star hotel)
Ladders to Heaven

 

 The ladders are painted in correspondence to prayers to Buddha. They are painted to invite Buddha to descend from heaven. 

Vendors at every stop

 

Tibetan Water Funeral

 

  It is tradition to dispose of the dead by, Marvin’s words not mine, cutting the body into pieces and throwing it into the river. 

Tibetan Villages along the highway

 

  We took the scenic route to Shigaze, it was about seven hours. Fortunately the road has been paved in the last few years which sped up the trip. The scenery was intriguing and the views spectacular. I enjoyed seeing the traditional homes and villages along the roadside. 

The biggest tourist trap yet

 

  The Tibetans have capitalized on tourism and every tourist stop is packed with rather pushy vendors. This stop did offer some unique photo opportunities. This stop was a scenic view of the Yangzhuoyong Holy Lake. 

Picture on a Yak Y10

 

Tibetan Prayer Flags strung across the

 

Tibet Prayer Pile, okay I can't really remember what these were, but they are suppose to bring good fortune to those who build it.

 

According to Yahoo Answers...this is a chorten.

 

Yangzhuoyong Holy Lake

 

The rock piles covered the lakeside

 

A glacier covered mountain - between the lake and Shigaze

 

    This was the highest elevation we encountered on our trip – 16,568ft. My headache is Lhasa had disappeared but as I stepped off the bus and walked around it returned once again. 

Traditional Nomad Tents

 

Religion is a prominent part of daily life in Tibet

 

An ancient fortress nestled amongest the hills.

 

The reflection was spectacular!

   Once we had descended again into the valley I began snapping pictures out my window without really looking. As I reviewed my shots later I found this one. I wish I had been paying attention so I could have centered it a little better. I was shocked at the reflection. 

Traditional Homes along the roadside

 

I never tired of the clear blue sky

 

More homes

 

The colors were all vibrant

 

Dried Yak Chips covered the outside of the walls, insulation?

 

Itinerary: 

Tashilhunpo  Monastery, founded in 1447, was once inhabited by over 4,000 monks.Today,only600 remain there .This monastery is one of the few that weathered the stormy seas of the Cultural Revolution relatively unscathed. 

It is the home of the Yellow-Hat-Panchen Lamas and one of the most beautiful remaining ensembles of Tibetan architecture. The Grand Hall contains the tomb(containing more than 85kg gold lots of jewels ) of the

I’ve been to Tibet and Back

We left Chengdu early Monday morning. By 7:30 we were on the plane to Tibet. I lucked out with the a window seat and marveled at my first glimpses of Tibet.
My first glimpses of Tibet
The view was spectacular and I lucked out with a window

 Our new tour guide met us at the airport. He welcomed us to Tibet giving each person I white scarf. After our welcome he quickly gave us the rundown on altitude sickness. Prior to Tibet I’ve never been one for health warnings honestly. I’m young, healthy why not be careless when it comes to travel. I’ve some how managed to escape contracting any disease or parasites before, goodness knows how I’ve tried to contract a tapeworm. So why did Marvin’s current health speech peak my interest? Well let me give it to you roughly and you decide.

Everyone will experience altitude sickness. The degree will vary but be prepared for the following symptoms:

Shortness of breath

Dizziness

Headache

Vomiting

Diarrhea

Achy ALL over

Those who have the flu or a serious cold should not go to Tibet as their symptoms will only get worse and require immediate evacuation.

If you experience any of the previous symptoms to an uncomfortable degree you should contact your guide and medical attention will be sought for. If any water accumulates in your lungs you must be evacuated immediately. At this altitude it could be deadly in a matter of hours. (Okay, that was the clincher)

How to avoid increasing symptoms:

Do not shower for the first day and a half (If you get cold your body is unable to warm up again)

No alcohol (that was tough)

First day rest, don’t do anything strenuous or physical.

HYDRATE

Eat little

No greasy foods

Not only did I listen to the medical warnings, I took notes. I made it out alive with only a few set backs.

The airport is an hour and a half outside of the city. Marvin was a very insightful tour guide. The ride in was filled with history and culture. It was absolutely wonderful. Once we got to our hotel, my headache and dizziness had peaked, I decided to rest up for the afternoon as advised.

About 5 o’clock the gang assembled and decided to hit the town. Our hotel was in an amazing location. We were a block from the heart of the City. The Jokhang Temple is in the middle of town surrounded by a huge market. Together we explored the surrounding area and took in the clean glorious air.

Pilgrims circling the Jokhang Temple

 There are three main pilgrim routes in Lhasa. The smallest is the walk around the Jokhang Temple. The pilgrims circle the temple clockwise chanting the Buddhist mantras and rotating prayer wheels.

Central Lhasa

 The streets surrounding the temple are filled with vendors. Each stall has an abundance of wares for sale. Beautiful jewelry (my favorite of course), clothing, trinkets and various cultural objects.

Nothing beats a water fight on a hot afternoon.

It didn’t take long before we were tired. Adjusting to the altitude was not as easy as I’d anticipated. Even after a four hour nap, two hours of browsing the stalls felt like a marathon. We found a shady bench along the street and enjoyed the water fight out of the line of fire, or so we thought. The little girl was having a go at her neighbor. It seemed like an ongoing battle as he always managed to get out of the line of fire at the last min. Her mother didn’t seem that worried as ou can tell.

For dinner Dorthy, another member of our group, suggested the Snowflake Cafe. The food was delicious. I was just thrilled to see a non-Chinese food menu. Their specialties were Tibetan dishes of course but they had plenty of Indian and Naplese dishes as well. I settled on Yak and Potato Stew and was quite satisified. I’ve always been a carnivore nothing has cured that yet and I think I finally found something to rival beef.
Potato Yak soup, delicious

 Day Two:

The first day we arrived and took it easy in hopes of accumulating to the altitude. Day two was the day of stairs. We began the morning with a trip to the Summer Palace on the outskirts of Lhasa. The buildings were spectacular.

Most of the buildings throughout Tibet still follow the traditional style
The doors throughout Tibet were fascinating
Mastiffs are the mascots of Tibet
The theater and entertainment area at the Summer Palace
The Summer Palace for the Dali Lama
The summer palace was beautifully decorated throughout

 After visiting the summer palace we went to a factory to look at Buddha Stones. It is a cylinder shaped stone that has been uniquly carved from a bicolored stone with a unique pattern. I will try and add a picture later. In the same factory we were able to see the making of traditional Tibetan rugs.

Traditional Tibetan Rugs
In the afternoon we visited the main site of Lhasa the Potala Palace. It was spectacular. Yes, we climbed all the way to the top.
The Potala Palace
I just couldn't get over how clean and blue the sky was
The stairs were never ending

Katie was the official step counter. She tallied our ascent at 366 steps in total. Now you may look at that and think not so bad but 366 steps at 11,800 ft is quite an accomplishment in my opinion.

The traditional Window designs were fascinating
Don't forget your Umbrellas

For those who remember my post on the Chinese attachment to umbrellas I have to give them this one, I’ve never felt the sun so strong in all my life.

Open Market

We finished the afternoon with a trip to the Jokhang Temple. This temple houses a statue of the original Buddha. It was brought to Tibet as a dowry for the princess who married the King who united Tibet.

Potala Palace - Evening

 When I get home ask me about this evening and what happens when you try to set your bag down in the square.

For every one’s protection and the ability to keep up this blog I’m going to turn off the comments for the following few posts.

Le Shan – Giant Buddha

We took a day trip to see the Le Shan Buddha. The drive to Le Shan was beautiful. The countryside in the Southwest is so different from Shandong. It is lush and green with various crops.

Tea Fields covered the hills
The river often floods

The Leshan Giant Buddhawas built during the Tang Dynasty (618–907). It is carved out of a cliff face that lies at the confluence of the Minjiang, Dadu and Qingyi rivers in the southern part of Sichuan province in China, near the city of Leshan. The stone sculpture faces Mount Emei, with the rivers flowing below his feet. It is the largest carved stone Buddha in the world and at the time of its construction was the tallest statue in the world.

The largest Buddha in the world
The Leshan Buddha has been greatly affected by the pollution caused by the unchecked industry in the area.
Stairs asecnding the mountain
The Gang

 On the trip we met two couples who have been teaching English for the past year in China. Sue and her husband taught in Xi’an.

The gang and Sue Wood

Chengdu and the Panda Reserve

After leaving Xi’an we met up with the tour group in Chengdu Saturday morning.

 That after noon we went to the Giant Panda Base. Really quick a few things I’ve learned about Pandas: 1. they are very picky eaters, there are 5 varieties of bamboo of which the Panda will only eat one. 2. they are temperamental when it comes to weather and when the weather gets warm they must stay in the AC. 3. If they give birth to twins they will only raise one and leave the second to die. 4. They refuse to adapt to their surroundings which leaves some scientist wondering why we aren’t taking a hint from mother nature and letting them go extinct.

I’ve come to decide they are just the supermodels of the animal kingdom which leaves every other animal wondering why they get so much attention when they refuse to follow the rest of the group. I’m not sorry if I see, cynical I’ve never been a real animal lover and quite frankly they are just not as cute and cuddly as I thought they were.

The Great Panda, or should I say the Great Picky Panda

 

No if only I could afford to spend my days like that all would be right with the world

 

Not the enclosures I would have imagined. But then again I grew up with the Chaffee Zoo in Fresno

 

The Red Panda is definitely more entertaining to look at.

 

This animal is called the Red Panda. I see the similarity in the face but not much else. Some speculate that the panda should be considered in the raccoon family rather than the bear as their markings have a closer resemblance. When you look at these creatures you can not help but to agree as they most definitely resemble the raccoon in both markings and body.
 
Yes, I'm going to go with a member of the raccoon family on this one.

 

The Reserve was beautiful

 After the Panda reserve we had a wonderful dinner and then went to see a Sichuan Variety show. The different acts highlighted the various arts popular in the province as well as the China as a whole. The fist act was that of Beijing Opera. Before I’d felt inclined to go to a Beijing Opera performance as it was a traditional art of China, now I think I’ll leave that ticket available for some who, how shall I say it, appreciates that kind of ear splitting, headache inducing performance.

What's a traditional showcase with out Beijing Opera

 

 The Shadow puppets were quite impressive and I felt like a little kid taking pictures of each and every one. Does anyone else see Scooby Doo or is that just me?

Now that's an impressive shadow dog
Now that's an impressive shadow dog.

 

My favorite shadow puppet

 I was grateful our tour guide explained this act prior to the show as I appreciated much more understanding the context. It is a common belief that in the Sichuan province the women wear the pants. In this act the man arrived home late, after losing his shirt in yet another gambling game his wife makes him go through a series of repent acts. Each act must be complete with a full oil lamp balanced atop his head.

And who says men can't be trained...

 The first is a reenactment of a famous dialogue between a husband and wife, he must play both parts with acceptable gestures, voice inflection and so on. Another feat is that of crawling under the two benches and back again without touching the lamp with his hands.

Quite a feat, I was enthralled.

 

 A musical number was preformed on the Er Hu.

The Er Hu, it is beautiful to listen to.

 Face Changing is a unique performance in China. I once watched a TV special on the reigning master of face changing. He can do over 100 face changes in a single performance. The performer changes the mask so quickly it seems as if it is done by magic.

Traditional Face Changing Show

 The next morning we went to LaShan. When we returned we browsed through the Old Town in enjoying the low altitude for one final night.

My new obsession - hair sticks
Old Town Chengdu, pricey but a wonderful atmosphere.
ummm...not much I can say

 That evening we were on our own for dinner. We stumbles across a BBQ restaurant and we decided to give it a try. We didn’t exactly understand what we had gotten ourselves into but enjoyed it all the same. We soon realized it was an all you could eat buffet and Thomas and I decided to make the most of the meat selection.

All you can eat smorgasbord, and only 29kaui
Okay so not exactly following any health codes but....

 

 Katie, as a culinary student unfortunately knows all the health code rules and was horrified to see the conditions from which we selected the food. But in the end we all knew we’d eaten worse here so as long as we have Imodium who really cares.

I must admit it was a delcious meal. The seasonings were delicious and all you can eat meat, I was in heaven.

Xi’an and the Terracotta Warriors

My two week escape around Southwest China started in the ancient city of Xi’an.    

We left Weifang Wednesday morning and took the train to Qingdao. Katie wanted to hit up Jimo one final time and with to objections we all tagged along.  I ended up purchasing 3 more pearl necklaces. We caught a taxi to the airport and had a rather pleasant even more surprising, rather long conversation with the taxi driver. Between the three of us, Katie, Thomas and I we understood about 85% of what was said.    

Our plane to Xi’an landed early evening and we caught the shuttle into town. We soon found our hostel which was conveniently located at the south gate, great location for taxi drop off, Nan Men 南门 is easy to say and remember. We tried to find the large antique market but must have missed it as we ended up wandering narrow alleys with less than pleasant aromas.    

We turned in for the night and soon discovered why the room was so cheap. NO AC. We had figured booking the basement would be cooler but we hadn’t taken into account we were next to the laundry and boiler rooms. To keep things pleasant lets just say I’ll be more than happy to pay the extra 25 kuai a night next time.    

As usual I had my activities for the day booked solid and started early.    

First stop: Small Wild Goose Pagoda –    

     

Small Wild Goose Pagoda Bell Tower

 The Small Wild Goose Pagoda, is one of two significant pagodas in the city of Xi’an. The Small Wild Goose Pagoda was built between 707–709, during the Tang Dynasty under Emperor Zhongzong of Tang (r 705–710). The pagoda stood 45 m (147 ft) until the 1556 Shaanxi earthquake. The earthquake shook the pagoda and damaged it so that it now stands at a height of 43 m (141 ft) with fifteen levels of tiers.  The pagoda has a brick frame built around a hollow interior, and its square base and shape reflect the building style of other pagodas from the era.    

During the Tang Dynasty, the Small Wild Goose Pagoda stood across a street from its mother temple, the Dajianfu Temple. Pilgrims brought sacred Buddhist writings to the temple and pagoda from India, as the temple was one of the main centers in Chang’an for translating Buddhist texts. The temple was older than the pagoda. The temple was originally called the Daxianfusi or Great Monastery of Offered Blessings by Zhongzong, until it was renamed Dajianfusi by Empress Wu Zetian in 690.  (wikipedia.org)    

Small Goose Pagoda

      

Memorial Steele - Small Goose Pagoda Temple Grounds
Memorial Steele with in the Temple Compound

After visiting the Small Wild Goose Pagoda we went to the Shaanxi Museum. It was a beautiful collection of artifacts collected throughout the province. Shaanxi Province is known for its neolithic cultures and long history of settlement. We got a preview of the Terra-cotta warriors and many magnificent bronzes.    

Before heading back into town we stopped at a small Temple mentioned in my guide book. It was a peaceful experience. The temple was under going major renovations but we came during lunch as there was no one working at the time. It is always amazing how even though we were in the middle of a busy neighborhood the grounds were peaceful.  

Major renovations were underway at this small temple.

 We headed to the Muslim corner for lunch and an afternoon of sites. First we strolled through the shopping streets as we mede our wat to the Great Mosque.  

   

The back market streets, aka Tourist traps

The old town shopping area had an upbeat thriving atmostphere that was a pleasure to stroll through.
The Great Mosque – Xi’an

    

Although it was Muslim there was a strong Chinese influence

After visiting the mosque we continued to wander through the Muslim Quarter looking for a place to eat. The Muslim food is the pride of Xi’an and we were not about to pass that chance up. 

Umm, should someone say something?

We decided on fresh pulled noodles in a spicy broth. Yumm 

Fresh pulled noodles, nothing beats food from Xijiang - Uyghur people

We spent the evening roaming the town and turned in early for a good night’s rest, or atleast as good as one can get when sweating like a pig.   

Friday was the Terra Cotta Warriors. We had gotten directions from the hostel on how to take a bus out to save money. We left in what we thought would be plenty of time but well nothing ever goes as planned. We finally reached the Train Station and ran like crazy to the bus area. We spotted our bus and made a mad dash to the door. What a relief, we made it with two mins to spare, no exaggeration. I was horrified to discover had we missed it we would of had to wait an hour for the next. We settled in for the hour out to the site. It was well worth all the hassle and worry.    

Pit 1 - Infantry & Calvary

The Terracotta Army is the Terra Cotta Warriors and Horses of Qin Shi Huang the First Emperor of China. The terracotta figures, dating from 210 BC, were discovered in 1974 by some local farmers near Xi’an, Shaanxi province, China near the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor. The figures vary in height (183–195 cm – 6 ft–6 ft 5in), according to their roles, with the tallest being the generals. The figures include warriors, chariots, horses, officials, acrobats, strongmen, and musicians. Current estimates are that in the three pits containing the Terracotta Army there were over 8,000 soldiers, 130 chariots with 520 horses and 150 cavalry horses, the majority of which are still buried in the pits. (wikipedia.org)      

  

Each are distinct and spectacular in its own right
Excavation and remodeling is still underway and will continue to be so for years to come.
The work done is phenomenal.

 The opportunity to see this piece of Art History was truly spectacular. No slide can ever compare with the opportunity to see it first hand.     

The site of the well

 

Pit 2

   

The world famous "Archer"

   

Pit 3 - Command Headquarters

After a long morning at the Terra Cotta Warriors we decided to take a leisurely bike ride around the city wall. Well for the other three it was leisurely, I was just grateful I made it.   

Xi'an City Wall - Restored obviously

   

9km once around

   

For the record I’ve never claimed to be athletic. You rented the bikes for 1½ hours, for 20kuai after that each additional 10min was 5 kuai I was more than happy to pay the extra but as we were all on the same ticket I wouldn’t put it past the Chinese to charge everyone for my lack of athleticism. So the last thirty mins was a made push to avoid paying everyones late fee. I did it, and true to their character not one of them made me feel bad for falling behind.    

   

Xi’an was a wonderful city. We lucked out with beautiful weather; it had remained in the 80’s each day with cloud cover. We had be worried as Victoria had gone the week before and the weather had not dropped below 95 the entire time. I happily have crossed off yet another item from my bucket list! 

Yentai – Day 2

Sunday we drove to Yentai. The tour guide had scheduled a tour of the Wine Museum. I opted out and went to the Municipal Museum with a few others instead.

The drive from Penglai to Yentai was rather interesting. It is a wine area and as you pass the vineyards every so often you see a French Chateau, no joke. I wish I had gotten a picture to prove it. The Chinese love to imitate that’s for sure. It was so random, rundown cinder block homes, dusty vineyards, yup French Chateau!

Yentai has a very modern feel

 

The Community Center

 

The Temple of the Sea Goddess

 

The oldest Buddha statue I've seen so far

 

The old Yentai Hutongs

 

The trip was short and sweet. I would like to return to Yentai as there seems to be much more to see. There is a mountain to the south that is famous for its temples and pagodas. I have a few students from Yentai and hope to return this summer.