When it comes to skincare, applying sun protection is a non-negotiable step in every beauty routine, especially when you are exposed to the extreme sun in Malaysia.

How many times have you come upon articles touting the virtues of “skinimalism” (using less products and keeping it as natural as possible), only to find SPF (sun protection factor) sitting right up there alongside cleanser and moisturiser?

More people are realising that applying sun protection on your skin is an essential step in your daily skincare routine.

The beauty industry has responded with an array of formulations: from sprays to brush-on powders, whipped mousses to roller sticks, there’s an SPF for every preference and lifestyle.

In 2020, the global value of sun care products was US$10.7bil (RM50bil), and according to market analysts at Grand View Research, the global value of sun care products is projected to grow by 4% each year until 2028.

By the end of the decade, the sector is expected to reach upwards of US$14bil (RM66.35bil).

While sun protection has been a hot topic of late, there may still be confusion over the types of sunscreens out there along with many other questions.

Read more: The 'berry makeup' beauty trend revives interest in a bright, colourful look

Physical or chemical?

There’s no such thing as a one-size-fits-all SPF, and users will usually have to experiment with several types before they find one that suits them.

Supergoop! founder Holly Thaggard tell us how to differentiate between physical and chemical sunscreens.

“Physical (or mineral) sunscreens are typically white and sit more on top of the skin to act as a barrier between it and the sun’s UV rays. Chemical SPF, on the other hand, can be clear and more lightweight and they will absorb UV rays as a way of protecting your skin from the damage they can cause,” she says.

Ultra Violette co-founder Ava Matthews notes that there isn’t a huge difference in how physical, mineral and chemical sunscreens work, but the latter uses either Titanium Dioxide or Zinc as their actives for UVA and UVB protection.

“There is a common misconception that these actives reflect 100% of the sun’s rays, however, they actually do a combination of reflecting and diffusing,” says Matthews.

It's essential to choose a sunscreen that provides broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays. Photo: Sunplay“Mineral or physical sunscreens are often more mattifying and are a thicker texture. Chemical sunscreens are often more lightweight and can be found in a varying number of textures as they interact in a similar way to typical skincare formulations,” she adds.

Sunplay brand manager Sukie Teo says that physical sunscreens are often preferred for sensitive skin as they are less likely to cause irritation or allergic reactions.

“Chemical sunscreens, however, tend to be more cosmetically elegant, as they generally apply more smoothly and do not leave a white cast on the skin,” she says.

For those whose skin is prone to breakouts, Thaggard recommends using mineral formulas, which sit more on top of the skin and are great for those with super sensitive and/or acne-prone skin.

Matthews’ advice is to avoid anything too thick or heavy.

“These days, with all the new SPF technologies, that’s pretty easy. If you’re sensitive to some SPF filters, this can cause reactions to skin which may manifest in breakouts. If you know you’re sensitive to sunscreens, look to physical SPFs – zinc oxide is anti-inflammatory so helps calm and manage breakouts,” she explains.

“Patch testing can also help you see if you’re going to break out as often, it happens very quickly. The other thing to help eradicate breakouts is ensuring you wash the SPF off your face properly at the end of the day – this means double cleansing especially in the heat of summer when you’re probably (hopefully!) applying multiple layers daily.”

Teo suggests looking for oil-free, non-comedogenic (which means it won’t clog your pores) formulas labelled as suitable for acne-prone or sensitive skin.

“Additionally, look for sunscreens that are specifically formulated for acne-prone or sensitive skin, as they are designed to be less likely to cause irritation or breakouts. It’s essential to choose a sunscreen that provides broad-spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays to effectively shield the skin from sun damage without aggravating existing skin concerns,” says Teo.

Read more: What is 'banana botox' and does this anti-ageing beauty trick really work?

Sun protection products galore

From spray-ons to stick sunscreens and powders and balms, consumers have a myriad of choices when it comes to choosing suncare products.

With so many options, how can we tell which ones work best? The answer depends on various factors, such as application technique, formulation and which areas of the body you want to cover.

“Spray-on, stick, and powder sunscreens can be effective when used correctly, but their efficacy may vary depending on factors such as application technique and sunscreen formulation,” says Teo. “Spray-on sunscreens are convenient for covering large areas of the body quickly, but they may be less effective if not applied generously and evenly. Stick sunscreens are portable and mess-free, making them suitable for on-the-go application, but they may require more effort to blend evenly onto the skin.”

Teo goes on to add that while powder sunscreens offer a lightweight and matte finish, making them ideal for re-application over makeup, they may provide less comprehensive coverage compared to other sunscreen formulations.

Matthews notes that figuring out the various formats and formulations can be tricky because with any SPF, you need to apply 2mg per square cm in order to get the protection listed on the packaging.

“That’s for all sunscreen formulas, no matter the brand or texture. With sticks and powders in particular though, it can be hard to reach that amount due to the format of the product,” says Matthews.

Ultimately, the effectiveness of these sunscreen types depends on proper application and adherence to reapplication guidelines.

For reapplication over makeup (experts recommend touching up your sunscreen often throughout the day), it’s all a matter of personal preference.

“We make a resetting powder and a resetting spray so that you can choose your own adventure when reapplying your SPF throughout the day,” says Thaggard.

When it comes to individual needs and preferences for reapplication, convenience and effectiveness are key factors, says Teo.

“Spray-on sunscreens are a popular choice as they allow for easy application without disturbing makeup. They can be lightly misted over the face and offer a quick and convenient way to top up sun protection throughout the day,” she says, adding that a colour correcting spray has the additional benefit of brightening dull skin.

A minimalist routine

Some people swear by 10-step or more routines made popular by the K-beauty wave, but the skinimalism movement has also gained traction over the years.

Many are scaling back their use of products, preferring to keep the number of steps to a minimum, sometimes using sunscreen in place of a daytime moisturiser to save time and money.

Matthews says that whether doing this is a good idea depends on the formula of the SPF and how much hydration your skin needs.

“Those with dry skin will often need to layer a moisturiser underneath their sunscreen, but if you have normal-oily skin, you could do a trial wearing your SPF alone to see if it offers enough hydration,” says Matthews.

Infusing SPF into everyday skincare and beauty go-tos is one to go about it, according to Thaggard.

“That being said, I’m all about an SPF wardrobe, or layering our SPF products on top of one another, to ensure your skin is being adequately protected and you aren’t missing any spots,” she says.

Sunscreen is essential for daytime skincare and Teo says it should ideally be used in conjunction with a daytime moisturiser.

“While sunscreen primarily provides protection against UV radiation, moisturisers focus on hydrating and nourishing the skin. However, there are sunscreen products with skincare benefits, combining hydration and sun protection in one product,” says Teo.

Look out for gels that hydrate and moisturise the skin, which are also packed with sun protection benefits.