Understanding The Hilt’s wines means exploring the rugged Sta. Rita Hills Valley. Divided into four quadrants, their vineyards sit in the northern, ocean-facing quadrant. Despite being challenging for growers, these sites yield wines of exceptional depth and complexity, shaped by the harsh coastal elements.
I had the chance to sit down with Matt Dees, Winemaker for The Hilt, The Pairing, and Jonata Wines at 55 Seventy, to hear the story and taste the 2021 wines (pictured in the photos above kindly provided by the winery).
The History
Rancho Salsipuedes, home to The Hilt wines, has vineyards located approximately 13 miles inland from the ocean to the west. This property offers different altitudes, orientations, soil compositions, and microclimates. Matt utilizes this varied landscape to select grapes from distinct vineyard parcels, crafting wines with unique characteristics.
Despite its diversity, Salsipuedes exhibits consistent features. The vineyards thrive in poor soils, compelling the roots to penetrate deeply; the winds are relentless; a cold maritime climate ensures slow ripening, preserving acidity despite ample sunlight; and a low vine vigor leads to concentrated, complex grapes with low yields. Poor soils, coastal winds, cool climate, and low-vigor vines define Salsipuedes within the Sta. Rita Hills AVA.
Matt talked about ten years of working on the property and learning to get the most out of the vineyards using cool climate viniculture techniques. He told me that with the land, “he knew they could make great wines from any variety.”
Matt’s Background
Matt has an impressive background working first at Staglin, Stag’s Leap and was hired by Billionaire Stan Kroenke as the winemaker for The Hilt, Jonata and The Paring wines in 2014. Kroenke also owns California Screaming Eagle and a vineyard in Corton-Charlemagne. He also is the owner of the Los Angeles Rams, the Denver Nuggets, and the Arsenal Football Club. Stan’s ownership of the wineries will allow Matt to make key investments to work with the best vineyards in Santa Barbara County — Radian, Bentrock, Puerta del Mar and the Estate Vineyards.
We tried a variety of Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, which were delicious, distinct, and reflected the diversity of the vineyards.
- 2021 The Hilt Radian Chardonnay – the vineyard is known for its “extreme viniculture” resulting in more complex wines. I tasted notes of lime, green apple, orange, lemon pith, and saline.
- 2021 Hilt Bentrock Pinot Noir – notes of raspberry, clove, black cherry, plum, cigar, black tea, and violets. Described by Matt as “red and joyful,” I completely concur.
- 2021 Hilt Estate Chardonnay – a single vintage wine, made of two single vineyards described by Matt as showing “topicity, consistency and typicity.” I tasted lime zest, sea salt, brioche, peaches, apricots, and tropical fruit.
- 2021 Hilt Radian Pinot Noir— very aromatic and exotic with notes of violets, graphite, dried herbs, and black fruit.
- 2021 Hilt Estate Pinot Noir – this was a blend of two vineyards resulting in an energetic wine. This was a crescendo wine – it kept building. I tasted violets, black cherry, black pepper, lavender, pine needle, rosemary, and blackberry.
We talked a little about what was coming next, and a sparkling is on the horizon. Matt told me “As the vineyard gets better, it brings us more opportunity to see how different clones grow and flourish.”
The Hilt wines embody the rugged beauty of Sta. Rita Hills Valley and the expertise of winemaker Matt Dees. The tasting of their 2021 wines revealed their diversity, craftsmanship and Matt’s understanding of the terroir. With a sparkling wine on the horizon, The Hilt continues innovating and exploring new winemaking frontiers.
