THE TASTE OF THINGS/ La passion de Dodin Bouffant

France, 2023, 135 minutes, Colour.

Juliette Binoche, Benoit Magimel, Emmanuel Salinger.

Directed by Anh Hung Tran.

The title is a bit generic! But it does lead us in the way of food. Perhaps the original French title, La passion de Dodin Bouffant, which actually indicates the narrative of this story, seem too cumbersome for the English version.

Chef, menu, restaurant, gourmet, all words that lead us to France and French cuisine. And, for 135 minutes, this is a film, with extraordinary detail, about French cuisine. No idea here of just rustling something up for the evening meal!

What is immediately attractive about the presentation is that this is a period drama, an elegant 19^th century mansion, costumes and decor, a slower paced atmosphere, inviting the audience in, to become more quiet, to observe, to wonder…

In fact, for the first 30 minutes of the film, there is a detailed step-by-step preparation of a meal – an ordinary meal in this household rather than a banquet even though the dishes prepared would serve beautifully at a banquet. This is the household of Didon Bouffant who is a master chef. And he is assisted, for over 20 years, by Eugenie, obviously in love with her but her refusing his proposals. Eugenie is seen gathering the vegetables in the garden, then that half-hour in the kitchen, such preparation of each of the ingredients for the meal, the vast fire stove, the utensils, the attention given to preparing fish, meats, vegetables, sauces, precision with tastes and the time for cooking…

And, of course, beautiful desserts.  We feel we are there. And there are still more meal preparations to come. And the guests savouring the meals. And a celebration for Eugenie herself.

Obviously, this is a film for audiences who value food, who appreciate preparation and cooking, who have a discriminating sense of taste. For audiences who do not, especially with fast-food habits and taste to match, this film will be a challenge – or, perhaps, too detailed, even boring.

The film was written and directed by Vietnam-born, Ahn Hung Tran, directors of Vietnam themed films like The Scent of Green Papaya, Cyclo. The screenplay is based on a book by Marcel Roufe (1877-1936, drawing on his own experiences of that period). There had been a French movie for television of his book in 1972.

Juliette Binoche has been wonderful in films for over 30 years and brings an extraordinary charm and strength to Eugenie, an older woman, cooking her life, working with Dodin in the kitchen, supporting him in his meeting this with business associates from the area, but not wanting to sit and eat with them though she has strong friendships with them. Dodin is played by veteran actor, also charming, Benoit Magimel.

There is a pleasant subplot, the assistant cook and her younger sister helping out, and Eugenie’s discovery that the young girl is gifted with all kinds of culinary talents, and the desire for her to become an apprentice in the kitchen, her parents initially wary, but the young girl eager to learn.

And for the Romantics in the audience, the gently-pleasing relationship between Eugenie and Dodin, genteel, restrained, and his growing concern about her health.

So, what else can a reviewer say, except that the film is so beautiful to look at, the cast is charming, and the food, preparation, cooking, serving…Parfait!

1. The tone of the English title? The essence of the French title?
2. French sensibility, food, cooking, gourmet? Audience response?
3. The period, 19^th century style, pace, costumes and decor, the mansion, the interiors, the garden? The focus on the kitchen, the detail, the dining room? Eugenie’s room? The musical score and tone?
4. The situation, Dodin, his ability as a chef, cook, social status, his associates, his work in the kitchen, his hosting the dinners, his relationship with Eugenie, in love, the proposals, her refusals, the quiet intimacy between them? The Prince and his visit, the program of the eight-hour dinner? The issue of Eugenie’s health? The staff in the kitchen, the assistant, her niece, the talent, hope for the future?
5. Eugenie, age, experience, longtime cooking, the relationship with Dodin, 20 years, love, refusing the proposals? Seen in the garden picking the vegetables, her work in the kitchen, meticulous attention to detail, with the assistant, with the young girl, appreciating her talent, finalising the meals, their being served, her not joining the guests? Her quiet life, her health, her fainting, collapses, medical attention? Her death? And the final reprise of the end of the film with her being with Dodin?
6. The first 30 minutes, the meticulous preparation of the dinner, so much detail? Audience response?
7. The further work in the kitchen, Dodin and his working with Eugenie, the assistant, the approach to the parents of the young girl, their eventually bringing her, her skills, her ambitions, going to work in the kitchen?
8. The background of the director, Vietnam, his move to France, his sensibilities?
9. For audiences who love food and cooking? The impact for those who tend to be observers than experts on food?