Spal Fan Wiring Help.. (SOLVED)

No one has any ideas?

I'm in a similar situation where I bought an aftermarket (stronger) fan, but later realized I needed the fan control module from the OEM setup. Well it was broken, so I just wired a switch in my glove box when I need to turn the fan on. (Almost never unless I'm stopped or tracking).

Is that the wiring harness from SPAL? Do you have any check engine lights? I have one that tells me it lost communication with the fan control module, obviously. I'm looking for a way around that. Might just have to junk yard find a control module and wire it back in. It would be an easy fix and should get rid of the cel.

good luck

Well it ended up being fairly simple once I studied the electrical diagrams and spoke to SPAL on phone. To answer your questions; no check engine lights, no need for fan controls and that is the SPAL 30$ relay module.

Unfortunately the SPAL relay and fan speeds are not compatible with E46 OEM temperature sensor or the fan control signal coming from the DME.. I also figured out that tapping into the actual coolant temperature sensor only works on E36 because they have two speed fans. E46 on the other hand is controlled by the DME and has various speed settings; controlling the fan through volts on green and black wire. There might be possible ways to tap into actual coolant sensor, but since DME needs that sensor for whole array of other important stuff, I opted to leave that be.

SPAL fan relay on the other hand accepts either on (ground) or off.. This is also how their 185 and 195 degree thermostats work as well. Meaning E46 thermostat and DME fan signal is useless because they control through voltage and have constant power on the line.

My resolution;
Currently there is no place to plug in the SPAL sensor on the E46 so I am custom ordering a inline hose tee with 3/8' NPT to put it along the lower radiator hose. I see no point to purchase a fan controller that would do the same. So instead I used my fog light connections which I have deleted a long time a go. I plugged the ignition of SPAL relay to 12v current of fog lights and gray signal wire to fog light ground. Meaning I could turn it on with fog light switch anytime even when the car is off.
When the part comes in, I will install the temp sensor, plug relay ignition to 12v constant power because I want it on until coolant is cool even if the car is off, then gray wire of relay to temp sensor with fog lights, meaning I could turn it on whenever I please even under 185 for cool down laps and etc.

Other possibilities;
You could also plug the relay ignition to dme white stripe pink dotted cable (I think thats the one I have to look it up) so fan turns on only when car is on, or your day lights. With this you could either also use a switch to kick the fan on manually or just ground the wire and let it come on whenever you turn on the car.

Notes: Important wires for power is to use either current fan power and ground if you are upgrading the current fan, if not you must use a separate power source and use the supplied fuse! If you are using current fan connections you dont need the supplied fuse because Fan connections already have 50A fuse in relay box.
Rest of the wires, ignition and sending wire can be tapped into anything you dont mind tapping into. Just be careful around DME or diagnostic plug if you dont want your car throwing codes.

As far as SPAL fan, I opted to purchase the straight blade 16" high performance pusher fan. I am told it is considerably louder but more powerful than the curved blade, and it is true. I could comfortably touch the hood of my car at 100+ degree idles while car sits around. My A/C never worked better, and I havent noticed and air blockage to radiator during high speeds when fan is off. When you open the bonnet, air smacks you in the face and you can even touch your engine cover or radiator pipes without burning your hands. At the same time engine is not cool and I noticed about a 1mpg increase so thats a plus for daily commute. I also have dont have air box now, so this means my filter stays within outside temperature according to laser sensor. And according to my multimeter it uses slightly less power, and with sensor it will use even less because it wont be on as long as OEM fan. OH and my a/c never blasted colder air, I was thinking about adding freon but turns out not needed.

Cons: This is loud, not as loud as the mechanical fans at their loudest and you cant really here it from the cabin when windows shut. However, with curved blade I am sure it isnt a problem. Install is a bit of custom work with brackets, and cable work is confusing to figure out, because not many people attempt to do this.

All and all, cost is about 150$ relay one of the best cooling investments I have made. I was planning to upgrade my radiator when it gave out but I doubt it will anytime soon with this fan. I am an OEM guy mostly but I am comfortable to say OEM fan has nothing on SPAL fans, especially considering the price difference and customer service and warranty. Lets face it, E46 cooling parts are mostly crap plastic and designed poorly.

Next stop make an aluminum shroud with 16" diameter hole to improve air flow! 15$ tops!

Glad to hear about the Spal fan being so effective. I'm about to install one in my e30 after switching to R-134.