Act 1 - Northern Mexico: Eduardo Treviño was born and raised in Zaragoza, Coahuila, not far from the border towns of Piedras Negras and Eagle Pass. America Quintanilla was born and raised in General Bravo, Nuevo Leon, which lies almost dead center between Monterrey and Reynosa.

Act 2 - Chicago, Ill.: The Immigration and Nationality Act of 1965 led to an increased migration of Mexican families to U.S. cities including Chicago. Eduardo joined his brother in the Windy City, and America moved there to join her sister. A mutual friend invited both of them to a New Year's Eve party at Chicago’s Aragón Ballroom in 1970. They fell in love and eventually married.

Act 3 - The Montrose neighborhood in Houston, Texas: With their family growing, the Treviños moved to Houston with the hopes of owning their own business. They purchased La Mexicana supermarket in March 1982. Besides selling groceries, sodas, beer and snacks, they also began selling sandwiches. And then, by customer request, they started selling tacos and tamales. The supermarket was later converted into La Mexicana Restaurant and Bar.

La Mexicana has grown and evolved, surviving recessions, gentrification and even a worldwide pandemic. The restaurant has become a mainstay in the growing Montrose community, providing delicious Mexican dishes such as carne guisada, flautas, enchiladas and lots of breakfast options, which are served all day. Eduardo and America Treviño love Montrose, and their regulars love them right back.

“Food equals happiness” America Treviño proclaimed when I asked her what she enjoyed about the restaurant. “We strive to make our customers happy by paying attention to their feedback, both good and bad.”

In one such case, La Mexicana used to serve traditional Mexican enchiladas—tortillas dipped in red salsa, folded into a taco, and topped with queso fresco and crema. But the customers would send those orders back to the kitchen. They wanted Tex-Mex style enchiladas, with enchilada sauce and melted yellow cheese.

“So we changed the recipe and added the Tex-Mex enchiladas to the menu,” Eduardo Treviño recalled. “Not only did the customers stop sending their orders back to the kitchen, the enchiladas became one of the most popular items on our menu.”

I first started eating at La Mexicana during my days at the University of Saint Thomas in the early to mid 2000s. Sometimes I would stop in for breakfast tacos before class, or enchiladas on my way home. I definitely enjoyed many margaritas on the patio, which overlooks the corner of Montrose and Fairview.

There's still a small lunch counter as you walk into the store, serving breakfast and lunch plates to people on the way to work or during their break. La Mexicana makes its own delicious tortillas de harina (flour), which I love eating with chicharron en salsa verde. They also serve great bowls of menudo and pozole.

Act 4 - The Next Generation: After 42 years, Eduardo and America Treviño are still proudly running their little grocery store, now turned into a widely popular restaurant.

The Treviños have three children: Zulema Gonzales, and Briseida and Dante Treviño. They literally grew up at La Mexicana, doing homework, playing around the kitchen and even waiting tables and tending bar. The trio has helped their parents from the beginning and continue that work to the present day. Gonzales is general manager, Briseida Treviño is beverage director, and Dante Treviño is operations manager.

Late last year, with their parents' blessing, the siblings opened La Mex at The Stomping Grounds in the Garden Oaks/Oak Forest neighborhood. It's a fast-casual sister restaurant, serving many of the same popular menu items like fajitas, enchiladas and carne guisada. The margaritas are also always available.

And it all goes back to love: the Treviños love for each other, love for Mexican food and its traditions, and the love for their community.

The late, great Mexican singer Juan Gabriel used to frequent La Mexicana when visiting Houston. He loved to eat flautas de res and sopa de fideo. His photo is proudly displayed behind the counter at the restaurant. 

If one of the world's foremost love experts loved La Mexicana, maybe you will too.