3 perfect days in Budapest

From cliff-top castles and steamy thermal baths by day to edgy ruin bars and romantic river cruises by night, there’s always something to do in Budapest. But the Hungarian capital really comes alive after hours meaning you can explore around the clock. And a three day jaunt is the perfect amount of time to experience the best of the city.

My advice: Just don’t forget to wander around. As I learned from a recent trip there, Budapest's most surprising, special spots—underground tea houses, palatial libraries, and secret gardens—are often discovered by accident. This three-day itinerary includes both the major sights and some hidden gems, with plenty of Tripadvisor traveler reviews and ratings so you know you're in good hands.

Fun fact: Buda and Pest are two separate sides of the city, divided by the Danube River. Your first day will focus on the hilly, historic Buda section on the west bank. Start the morning in the Neo-Gothic Central Market Hall at the base of the Liberty Bridge. This 19th-century covered market spans three floors (look up at the colorful Zsolnay ceramic tile ceiling). Browse the stalls for fresh produce, fish, meat, cheese, and Hungarian wine, and pick up a pastry to go. Then, cross the Liberty Bridge to Gellért Cave, a church that’s literally carved into the dolomite rock abutting the river.

If you have energy, you can hike a half hour to the top of Gellért Hill, where there’s a citadel and a sweeping view of the city skyline. Or, skip straight to the R&R and continue up the road to the Gellert Thermal Bath. Fans of Art Nouveau architecture will love the opulent tile pools here. Note: Most days are co-ed, but some mornings the entire indoor section is closed off only to men or women.

For a pick-me-up after your soothing soak, there are two cute cafés nearby: Spatula (try the sweet crepes and other freshly baked goods) and Kelet, a charming bookstore, gallery, and coffee shop.

Ready for some sightseeing? Hop on the old-school trolly at the bottom of Gellért Hill, which runs along the river to the famous Széchenyi Chain Bridge. Here, you’ll find a vintage funicular—Europe’s second oldest, built in 1870—that whisks you to the top of Buda Hill. (We warned you Buda is steep!) Dating back to the 13th century, the eponymous castle (also called the Royal Palace) has been through a lot in its lifetime: It was razed and rebuilt six times—between the Renaissance, Turkish occupation, Habsburg reign, and WWII—and is still under construction today. You could spend a few hours here, as the complex comprises the castle, the Hungarian National Gallery, the Budapest History Museum, and the National Library. Plus, there are panoramic views of the Pest side, with its iconic Parliament Building, from the castle’s terrace.

Staying on the hilltop, stroll 15 minutes to Matthias Church. Like many important buildings, this church looks very different than it did when it was first built in the 11th century. Today, the Neo-Gothic and Baroque blend of architecture is more reflective of the 19th century. Yet, as beautiful as the façade is—with an ornate spire and eye-popping tile roof—the inside is just as stunning (picture: rich frescos, stained glass windows, and intricate stonework).

Beside the church is Fisherman's Bastion, arguably Budapest’s most popular viewpoint. This former fish market (hence its name) sits on the edge of Buda’s ramparts. Wander around—and on top of—the fairytale towers and cloisters. If you’re lucky, you can snag a seat at one of the cafés literally built into the walls.

BUDA SIGHTSEEING TOURS

At golden hour, walk along Tóth Árpád Setany, a promenade that circles the walled fortress. You’ll get a 360-degree view of the Buda side, which is particularly pretty around sunset. If you want a happy hour drink (or a perfectly buttery, flaky croissant), stop at Rojt és Bojt, which is hidden in a leafy staircase on the way down the wall.

Save room for dinner at Déryné, a quick five-minute walk away. This brasserie has a lovely outdoor terrace, an in-house bakery, and live music every day. The menu (a fusion of Hungarian and French food) is equally impressive. We loved the crispy eggplant schnitzel and the oxtail tortellini, served with a dollop of Arabic yogurt and freshly grated parmesan cheese. Note: This bistro also has a buzzy Sunday brunch with DJs spinning upbeat records.

In the mood for a nightcap? Take the bus through the tunnel (it’s less than five minutes) to Leo Rooftop Budapest, a posh circular cocktail bar with floor-to-ceiling windows framing the Széchenyi Chain Bridge and the elegant Four Seasons Gresham Palace hotel. (Tip: Make reservations in advance.) Another unique overlook is from the rooftop hot tub at Rudas Baths, which is open from 10 p.m. to 3 a.m. on weekends (yes, you read that right), so you can see the city lit up at night. The 16th-century spa has traditional Turkish baths and saunas, too.

While you won’t be climbing as many stairs on the Pest side, prepare to hit the ground running—there’s tons to see on the flatter eastern bank. The best way to get the lay of the land is on a guided walking tour. Here, you’ll learn about Hungary’s turbulent past as well as stop at Budapest’s main landmarks. Most begin at the ferris wheel in Elizabeth Square and head north toward St. Stephen’s Basilica. Tip: The Catholic church has an unbeatable view from the top of its Neoclassical dome. Turn up Andrássy Avenue, a wide, leafy boulevard that looks straight out of Paris. This will lead you to the Hungarian State Opera House and Drechsler Palace (reopened as a W hotel in 2023).

Next, make your way to the riverfront, where you’ll learn the haunting history behind the Shoes on the Danube Bank Holocaust memorial before stopping beside the striking Neo-Gothic Hungarian Parliament Building. You need to book a 45-minute tour to go inside, but it’s worth the extra time to see the pillared hall, grand staircase, and crown jewels. At the end of the tour, loop back to Vörösmarty tér square and treat yourself to some sweets at Café Gerbeaud, a famous confectionery that’s been operating since 1858.

BUDAPEST WALKING TOURS

Continue down Váci u, a pedestrian street with shops and cafés that spill onto the sidewalk, until you reach Gerlóczy Kávéház restaurant. Grab a table and tuck into a classic Hungarian lunch. The stuffed peppers are to die for and the wine list has interesting local labels. Then, poke your head into Párisi Udvar Hotel Budapest to see the art nouveau architecture from its former life as a shopping arcade.

Turning north to the famous Jewish Quarter, you’ll see the massive Dohány Street Synagogue (Europe’s largest, seating 3,000 worshipers) and the adjacent Hungarian Jewish Museum and Archives on the corner. It’s worth looking inside to see the soaring arches, lavish chandeliers, and intricate woodwork. Wander 10 minutes east on Wesselényi utca to Massolit, a cozy bookstore with vintage furniture and a peaceful backyard. Whether you’re still hungry or not is besides the point—you must check out Mazel Tov, an Israeli restaurant that renovated a ruin bar and turned it into an indoor garden with green walls and sun-drenched skylights.

Cross Rákóczi út street divides the Jewish Quarter and the Palace District. The latter is an affluent neighborhood with grand mansions that have been converted into cultural institutions. For instance, there’s the Hungarian National Museum and the Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library, a jaw-dropping hidden gem. During happy hour, join the locals at Mikszáth Kálmán tér, a vibrant square surrounded by bars. Prefer wine? Walk over to Tasting Table, where a team of knowledgeable oenophiles walk you through Hungary’s wine scene in a secret cellar. If you don’t drink, don’t worry: Sirius teahouse is tucked underground next door.

Fuel up for a long night at the upscale Negro Mangalica Bistro & Bar, where the chefs take a creative twist on traditional Hungarian food. You must order the melt-in-your-mouth pork cheek with a red wine sauce and potato dumplings. Finish it off with the “floating island” dessert.

Now that you have some food in your stomach, it’s time for a Budapest bar crawl. For more mature patrons, DOBLO features live jazz, natural wine, and huge cheese platters in a sultry brick bar. Otherwise, join the younger crowd at a ruin bar, Budapest’s grungy dive bars and dance clubs housed inside dilapidated warehouses and courtyards. Szimpla Kert is the most famous (and funky) one, and the long lines snaking around the block reflect its popularity. The three-story Instant-Fogas is another great choice, with each room dedicated to a different music genre. (We were partial to the rock and roll room.) Gozsdu Court is a vibrant arcade with restaurants, bars, and karaoke lounges on each side. If you have late-night munchies, you’re bound to find something to satisfy your craving at the open-air Street Food Karaván court. Personally, we like Lángosom’s classic Hungarian snack: fried dough with cheese and sour cream on top.

After a whirlwind trip, take it easy on your final day in Budapest. Meander north of the Jewish Quarter to the Insta-worthy New York Café. This brunch hotspot draws a big crowd but mainly due to the glamorous interiors. If you forgot to make reservations (and don’t want to wait in line), we suggest you continue walking to Freyja, which makes the best pan au chocolat we’ve ever tasted. Get a few sweet treats—likely still warm from the oven—to go, so you can nibble on them while you stroll through Városliget Park. This massive green space is home to the towering Vajdahunyad Castle, the cutting-edge House of Music Hungary, and the century-old Széchenyi Baths.

Tip: If you’re an early riser, make a beeline to Széchenyi first thing in the morning when there are fewer crowds. Meanwhile, night owls might prefer the after-dark “sparty,” complete with EDM beats, rave lasers, and Cirque du Soleil-like acrobatics.

SZÉCHENYI THERMAL BATH TOURS

Once you’ve dried off, take the metro (right outside the bathhouse) to the Újlipótváros residential area that’s chock full of charming cafés, gourmet grocers, and design-forward restaurants. If you need a little caffeine, there are endless options to choose from: Madal Café, Partisan Coffee Shop (pick up a plant-based bite), and Italian-inspired Caffé Daje. To try some Hungarian cheese, meats, and treats, pop into Fromage. Or if you’re really hungry, UnoMas Tapas Bar is usually packed with locals (always a good sign).

After, take the tram directly across the bridge to Margaret Island. In the middle of the Danube River, splitting the Buda and Pest banks, this 250-acre green space is the city’s own Central Park. Pedestrian promenades encircle the island, giving families plenty of room to jog, bike, or pedal cute four-wheel carts around. As far as sights to see, there are plenty. We loved the 13th-century Dominican convent, the tranquil Japanese garden, the art nouveau water tower, and the outdoor movie theater and beer garden (open seasonally).

We’ve saved the best for last. Sure, it may sound touristy, but you can’t miss a classic Danube River cruise. We recommend going in the evening to see the Hungarian Parliament glow in gold. You can choose a short sightseeing tour or a multi-course dinner cruise with live music (a romantic date night option). Either way, you’re sure to have a fantastic time and appreciate the city lit up at night.