What counts as men’s dress clothes? And what specific garments does every guy need from this category? I’ll break everything down here.
Have you ever been invited to a party, and the host (or your girlfriend) requests that you “dress up”? You kind of just agree and shrug it off. Then, when the time comes, you wonder what exactly that means. Dress up as what?
Dress clothes for men, fortunately, aren’t as varied as they are for women. I say fortunately because I respond well to constraints.
However, that doesn’t mean that we’re impervious to a faux pas here and there. Even more, there’s definitely a checklist of garments every guy needs at his arsenal.
Today, we’re talking all things dress clothes. From what they are to what you need to where to get them. Let’s get to it!
Men’s Dress Clothes
Dress clothes are anything you wear in a white-collar professional office environment or a formal environment. Dressing down means being casual and, more importantly, comfortable. So, dress-up clothes for men usually refer to suits, suit separates, or anything in the suit family.
For the most part, your dressed-up outfit will likely have that suit-like silhouette.
However, more casual versions may exclude the jacket. This dress-shirt-dress-pant combo can be topped off with a merino or cashmere pullover or even a vest. It can be worn with or without a tie.
The Suit Spectrum
Tie or no tie, suit components often make the foundation of a dressed-up outfit. As such, let’s look at the different kinds of tailoring available to men in order of formality.
Broken Suit
There are two approaches to achieving a broken suit. It can be a full suit, but with trousers that are a different color than the jacket. Or, it’s a suit, but with chinos or khakis in place of the trousers. You can also go for jeans, but that’s arguably no longer “dressed up.”
The blue blazer-khaki-pant combo is a preppy and country club staple. This is especially so when paired with a club tie and cable-knit vest.
Full Suit
A full suit consists of a suit jacket and suit pants, a dress shirt, a tie, dress socks, and dress shoes.
Black is the most formal color, though navy and charcoal can often be worn in most contexts black can.
Olive and maroon suits are excellent options for expressive yet still elegant tailoring.
Patterned suits can still be considered dressy, though they’re not always professional. The louder and less subtle the pattern, the less professional it is. Glen check is often considered formal enough for most offices.
Relatedly, tweed suits with finer patterns and darker colors are more formal than those with light, bold patterns.
And finally, a double-breasted suit jacket is often considered more formal than a single one. Or at least, it’s more of a “special occasion” suit.
Stroller Suit or Lounge Suit
This suit is rare in everyday situations and has several names. It’s called a stroller in the US, a lounge suit in the UK, and a Stresemann suit in Europe.
The reason it’s rare is because it’s the daytime version of a black-tie dress code. For most daytime formals, a regular suit often suffices. Often, but not always.
A stroller consists of dress trousers that are usually striped, a lounge jacket that’s either single or double-breasted, a waistcoat, and sometimes a homburg hat.
In my life, I’ve mostly seen strollers in two contexts.
I’ve seen men wear them at formal daytime church weddings, especially in England. And I’ve seen them requested on the invitation for the occasional formal daytime garden party.
Black-Tie Tuxedo
A black tie tuxedo is exactly what you think it is. A tuxedo, which is different from a suit, by the way, topped off with a black tie.
A tuxedo shirt is usually made of cotton and is either solid or features an understated pattern. It has a soft turndown collar and soft cuffs, unlike the more structured white-tie tuxedo shirt.
Morning Dress
Just as the stroller is the daytime version of the black-tie tuxedo, morning dress is the daytime version of a white tie. That being the case, it’s either more formal or equally as formal as a black-tie tuxedo. It’s hard to tell.
Night-time dress codes are naturally more formal. It’s why cocktail ranks above semi-formal in formality — most of us have cocktails at night-time.So, since morning dress is the day-time equivalent white-tie, which is more formal than black-tie, I think they’re more or less equal.
The morning dress features a morning coat, which is longer in the back than a stroller jacket and a tophat.
The waistcoat, striped gray trousers, and shirt and tie are otherwise mostly identical to those of the stroller. And, like the stroller, receiving an invitation requesting morning dress is increasingly rare.
White-Tie Dress Code
And finally, a white-tie tuxedo is one with, as its name implies, a white tie. You’d also wear a white tuxedo vest, not a black one. And you can top it off with a tophat.
A white-tie shirt is more structured than that of a black-tie shirt. It features a stiff collar and stiff single cuffs. Though most people wouldn’t be able to tell the difference, it’s always best to be respectful to the hosts of an event. This includes, of course, how you dress.
Dressy Men’s Clothes: The Necessities
Here are what dress clothing you need in your wardrobe:
Types of Dress Shirts
A dress shirt is a long-sleeve button-up shirt. It’s not a button-down, which is a lot like a button-up, except the collar points are fastened to the shirt with buttons. That’s a more casual look.
You’ll definitely need at least one white or off-white dress shirt and one light blue one. From there, you’re welcome to add a few in your favorite colors. The more muted the shade, the more professional and versatile it is.It’s also important that you get the right fit.
Cotton, especially with a subtle basket-shaped oxford weave, is a classic option that can be worn casually or formally. Same with straight, classic, and spread collars.
Linen is perfect for warm weather situations.
Stripes, bold colors, and silk can still be considered “dressed up,” but they wouldn’t be appropriate in more conservative contexts. Dressing up for a lounge or club? Sure. Dressing up for a church wedding or board meeting? Probably not.
Types of Suit Jackets
These days the basic suit jacket is one with two or three buttons, with a notch lapel.
You can also go for wide lapels for a slightly vintage look that goes well with the double-breasted aesthetic. In today’s world of pluralistic fashion, nothing ever looks irrelevant. So, it’s not actually that vintage-looking. It’s just less common.
Again, fit is important.
Blazers and sports coats are more casual but can “dress up” an otherwise relaxed outfit. They’re good options for dressing up jeans, button-downs, and even t-shirts without looking too “high-low”.
Types of Ties
Fortunately, we have a whole guide on every type of tie you can go for.
The most common one is the traditional, long necktie, otherwise known as the Langsdorf. Solid ties are the most formal, while striped or club ties and knit ties are elegant yet relaxed.
If the dress code allows, feel free to have fun with your tie. It’s a great way to express your individuality, even within the constraints of a dress code.
Types of Dress Shoes
You’ll need at least one pair of black dress shoes and one pair of brown dress shoes. For formal events, such as black-tie affairs, you’re going to need a pair of black cap-toe Oxfords or black whole-cut dress shoes.
Not to be morbid, but you’ll likely also need those black dress shoes for funerals.
You’ll get a lot of mileage out of oxfords and slim, minimal loafers.
For a comprehensive guide to dress shoes, check out our guide on the matter!
Casual or Smart Casual Pieces That Can Be Dressed Up
And, of course, dressing up doesn’t always have to mean going full penguin mode.
Here are some pieces to consider that are on the more casual side of the spectrum but can be worn in a dressed-up way in certain dress codes.
Polos are perfect for a warm, smart, casual day. You can go for a knit polo, which is light and effortless looking. Meanwhile, pique polos have a golf club look to them. There are also knit polos with cinched hems, which combine the structure of a pique with the lightness of a knit.
In warmer months, white or off-white t-shirts are also an option.
You can always wear chinos and khakis with your suit jacket to create a more relaxed broken suit look.
My advice with this is to just make sure the suit is balanced out. Since you’re already taking liberties with the pants, don’t do it anywhere else. For example, stick to leather dress shoes and don’t wear eye-catching accessories.
Pullovers and vests, especially in cashmere, can be both dressy and cozy. I like to add a cashmere sweater under my suit jacket on fall or winter days to take the stuffiness down a notch.
And finally, certain
Where To Buy Men’s Dress Clothes
Of course, classic, old-fashioned tailors are the best place to buy men’s dress clothing. They aren’t cheap, but they’ll ensure a custom, personal experience. The resulting suit or shirts will likely last you for decades.
If you can, it’s a good idea to invest in at least one suit or two this way.
Otherwise, don’t be ashamed of going to something like Bonobos or even Uniqlo if that’s all you can afford. My advice when it comes to budget suits is to simply get it tailored.
Often, a $300 suit can end up looking like a $1200 suit when tailored properly. Check out our guide on how to find a tailor you can trust. The same goes for dress shirts.
You can also check out mid-market department stores like Nordstrom Rack or Macy’s. They’re always having sales. Sign up for their newsletters, and you might end up with a $3,000 Brooks Brothers suit for just a grand.
You can also order men’s dress clothes online if you know your actual size and measurements. Again, if you go for budget pieces, you’ll almost certainly need to get it tailored anyway.
Check out our piece on SuitSupply. We go in-depth on the shopping experience they provide.
Conclusion: Suit Up, Soldier
Even those of you with the most casual lifestyles need to know the fundamentals of dress-up clothes for men. It’s the grown-up thing to do.
Besides, as mentioned, it’s an easier world to navigate than ladies’ dress clothes. Consider us lucky!
How often does your lifestyle call for you to dress up? Do you have any hacks for affordable dress clothes? Let us know your thoughts in the comments! We love hearing from you!
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