節慶極品烤乳豬 - 專欄 - Annie Leong Look & Cook 東周網【東周刊官方網站】
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主頁  > 專欄  > Annie Leong Look & Cook 2009 年 12 月 30 日

梁許安璞

梁許安璞(Annie Leong)於2005 年4 月開始撰寫這個專欄,隨後更出版了《安璞.滋味.知美》及《安璞.滋味.知緣》兩本烹飪書。憑着她對食物的極端執着與狂熱,對任何菜式都鍥而不捨地解構烹調技巧及製作完美食譜,深得忠實讀者的擁護。梁太於2007年10 月成立了www.cookwithannnie.com 網站,透過網站的討論區,與會員直接互動,交流各式各樣的題材、疑問和意見,也為她帶來更多刺激的新方向。梁許安璞熱情傾注的非凡入廚之旅,就只等你開卷一讀! annie.leong@singtaonewscorp.com

節慶極品烤乳豬

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當我嘗試做意大利傳統菜「烤釀豬」(Porchetta)的時候,得到了新的煮食靈感。原本這道菜是在去除內臟和骨的全豬內,釀入一層層肉、脂肪和皮,然後封口,傳統的做法是把它串起來,放在火上燒烤。我用爐做的烤釀豬味道雖佳,只是肉的份量太多了!於是,我借用了將乳豬除掉內臟和骨的意念,以「百寶鴨」的餡料代替肉來釀入其中。效果如何?保證令人大開眼界,大飽口福。

極品烤乳豬
Roast Suckling Pig Extraordinaire

材料Ingredients
乳豬(約4.5公斤) 1隻 1 suckling pig (about 4.5kg)
鹽(幼海鹽為佳) 3湯匙 3 tbsp salt (preferably fine sea salt)
烤焗時額外用鹽 2茶匙 Extra 2 tsp salt during roasting
白胡椒粉 1茶匙 1 tsp white pepper
紹興酒 3湯匙 3 tbsp Chinese Shaoxing wine
溶化牛油 半杯 1/2 cup melted butter for roasting

製法

乳豬拆骨步驟╱Boning a suckling pig

1. 首先移除脊柱:沿着脊骨的連接肌肉組織切開,然後鬆開周圍的肉和肋骨。
The first thing is to remove the spinal column : Cut through the connective tissue along the spine, then loosen the surrounding flesh and the ribs.
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2.由連接頭部的一端開始,刀口順勢而下,一邊削一邊提起骨頭,整條脊骨便可輕易取出。
To free the spine, work the knife blade along the entire length, starting from where it joins the head, lifting the bone away as you cut. The whole of the spine bone should come away easily.
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3.移除肋骨:用手指將肉推開,將刀斜斜插入肋骨末端的底部,刀口滑向背部,割出整排骨並取走。
Removing the ribs : With your fingers pulling the meat away, insert the knife blade crosswise under the tips of the ribs. Slide the blade towards the back to free the rib cage and remove.
4.切割肩胛骨:肩胛骨外包着一層肉,所以需要切開些少,直至確定骨的位置,然後小心地沿着骨頭切出。
Excising the shoulder blade : The shoulder blade is covered by a layer of flesh, so cut this open a little to locate the shoulder blade, then follow the contours of the bone carefully with the knife blade.
5.移除盆骨:小心地沿着盆骨切開,找出腿骨末端位置,切斷軟骨,將腿骨分離,接着以刀口沿盆骨削出所圍着的肉,移除盆骨,腿骨則可原好地留下來。
Removing the pelvic bone : Carefully cut around the edge of the pelvic bone, then locate the tips of the thigh bones. Cut through the cartilage to separate the bones. Now follow the contours of the pelvic bone with the knife blade and scrape all surrounding flesh away to remove the pelvic bone. I leave the leg bones in place.
6.皮向上放,在全豬表皮刺上多個小孔,令油分得以在烹煮時流出,做出脆皮效果。
With the skin side up, punch holes into the skin all over the pig so fat can escape during cooking. This will help to make the skin crisp.

烤乳豬/Roast Suckling Pig

1.為突出肉的鮮味,首先要將乳豬完全吹乾,然後塗上3湯匙紹興酒,醃半小時至酒液乾掉。之後在內腔擦上2湯匙鹽,豬皮擦上1湯匙鹽,全豬再灑胡椒粉。置乳豬於托盤,皮向上,毋須加蓋,放入雪櫃過夜。翌日,用毛巾徹底抹乾乳豬內外。
To heighten the flavour of the meat, you first need to dry it thoroughly. Then rub the pig with the 3 tbsp Shaoxing wine, and leave it to marinate for 1/2 hour and for the wine to dry out. Now rub 2 tbsp salt inside the body cavity, and 1 tbsp salt on the pig's skin. Sprinkle white pepper all over the pig. Leave the pig on a tray and place in the fridge uncovered, overnight, skin side up. The next day, dry the pig thoroughly inside and out with a towel.
2.預備好餡料(另見下文),釀滿整個豬腔內。不要填得太實,因為餡料會在烤焗時膨脹。用烤肉針把乳豬縫合好。
Prepare the stuffing (see below), and stuff the pig until the entire cavity is filled. Do not pack the stuffing too tight as it will expand during roasting. Sew the pig with trussing needles.
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3.置乳豬於烤架上,再將烤架放烤盤上。全豬抹上已溶化牛油,肚朝向上,豬皮擦1茶匙鹽。
Place the pig on its belly on a baking rack and put this in a large roasting pan. Smear the pig all over with melted butter, then rub 1 tsp salt into the skin.
4.預熱焗爐至220℃(425℉或煤氣7度),並開風扇。將乳豬放進焗爐的最底層,肚朝向上,焗15分鐘,令豬皮變脆。在乳豬皮上再次塗上牛油,焗15分鐘。
Place the pig, belly up, on the lowest position of the oven, and roast in a preheated oven, with the fan on, at 220℃ (425℉ or Gas Mark 7) for 15 minutes, to get the skin crackling. Now baste the skin with butter, and roast a further 15 minutes.
5.從焗爐取出乳豬,翻轉至背向上,用錫紙遮蓋耳及尾部,以防焗焦。全皮塗上更多已溶化牛油及1茶匙鹽,放回焗爐焗15分鐘。(這時要關掉焗爐的風扇。)
Now take the pig out from the oven; turn it skin side up. Cover the ears and tail with aluminum foil to prevent burning. Brush with more melted butter, and rub 1 tsp salt all over the skin. Put it back into the hot oven, and roast for 15 minutes. (You need to switch off the fan in the oven.)
6.在乳豬上添加更多油脂,繼續以高溫烤焗10分鐘。
Baste the pig with more fat and continue to roast at high temperature for 10 minutes.
7.把焗爐溫度減至170℃(325℉或煤氣3度),再多焗1小時。每20分鐘塗油一次,直至豬皮變得深色和鬆脆即表示完成。
Then turn the heat down to 170℃ (325℉ for Gas Mark 3) and roast for 1 hour. Continue to baste the pig every 20 minutes. The pig is ready when the skin has turned to crisp brown crackling.
8.這時候如表皮仍軟,調高爐火至220℃,並開風扇,繼續多焗10至15分鐘。每5分鐘塗油一次,直至皮鬆脆。(密切留意焗爐內情況,因為乳豬在這時候很容易變焦。)
If at this time, the skin is still on the soft side, turn the temperature up to 220℃, with the fan on, continue to roast for 10-15 minutes. Baste the skin with oil every 5 minutes until it turns crispy.(You need to keep watch craefully, because the pig can be easily burnt at this stage.)
9.從焗爐取出乳豬,除去烤肉針,將豬放在大碟上,切片,上桌。
Remove the pig from the oven. Pull out the trussing string, and place the pig on a platter. Crave the pig into slices, and serve!

秘訣/Secrets

  1. 拆去乳豬骨時,要用一張鋒利的短尖刀,盡量將刀貼近骨頭,慢慢地把肉削離骨,而不是切斷。
  2. 削肉時刀口時刻向下,否則很容易弄傷自己。
  3. 在最後的高溫烤焗時,最好同時把風扇開上。
  4. 這一章示範了拆骨和烤焗乳豬的方法,至於釀料方面則可隨個人喜好,選擇不同材料,例如蘋果核桃餡、鼠尾草洋葱餡、水果餡、肉腸餡等。總之,款式千變萬化。
  1. For boning the suckling pig, use a short sharp knife. Work slowly, keeping the knife as close to the bones as possible. Scrape the meat away from the bone rather than cutting it.
  2. The blade of the knife should always face down towards the meat; otherwise, it is extremely easy to cut yourself.
  3. For the final high-temperature roasting, it is best if you can have the convection fan on.
  4. This recipe sets out to demonstrate the boning and roasting of the suckling pig. For the stuffing, you can substitute your favourites, e.g., apple walnut stuffing, sage and onion stuffing, fruit stuffing, stuffing with sausage meat... the list just goes on. Enjoy!
釀料(餡料) For the stuffing(Filling)
糯米 4杯 4 cups glutinous rice
金華火腿粒 1/2杯 1/2 cup Chinese Jinhua ham, diced
冬菇(浸透及切粒) 3/4杯 3/4 Chinese mushrooms, soaked and diced
竹筍粒 1/2杯 1/2 cup bamboo shoots, diced
瑤柱(蒸軟及拆絲) 1/2杯 1/2 cup dried scallop, steamed and shredded
洋薏米(冷水浸兩小時) 1/2杯 1/2 cup pearl barley, soaked 2 hours in cold water
白果 1/2杯 1/2 cup gingko nuts
蓮子(浸透) 1/2杯 1/2杯 1/2 cup lotus seed, soaked
蝦米蓉 2湯匙 2 tbsp dried shrimps, minced
葱粒 3湯匙 3 tbsp spring onion, diced
紹興酒 1湯匙 1 tbsp Chinese Shaoxing wine
生抽 2湯匙 2 tbsp light soya sauce
1茶匙 1 tsp sugar
胡椒粉 少許 dash white pepper
食油 2湯匙 2 tbsp oil
1.糯米浸水1晚,次日瀝乾放入鍋,開蓋蒸熟。把蓮子、白果及洋薏米在滾水中煮至半熟。
Soak the glutinous rice in water overnight. The next day drain the rice and steam uncovered until cooked. Blanch lotus seed, gingko nuts and pearl barley until semi soft.
2.白鑊燒熱,放下蝦米蓉,中低火烘乾身,加入2茶匙食油,轉中火炒香,然後加入葱粒,再炒香。
Heat up a wok with no oil, then toast the minced dried shrimp on medium-low heat, until dry. Add the 2 tbsp oil to the dried shrimp. Turn heat to medium and fry until fragrant. Now add the diced spring onion; stir-fry with the dry shrimp until fragrant.
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3.加入其他材料:金華火腿、冬菇、竹筍、瑤柱絲、洋薏米、白果及蓮子,炒勻,灒酒,用生抽、糖和胡椒粉調味。
Add in the rest of the ingredients : Jinhua ham, Chinese mushrooms, bamboo shoots, shredded scallop, pearl barley, gingko nuts, and lotus seed. Stir to mix well, then sizzle in the wine and season with light soya sauce, sugar and white pepper.
4.加入蒸熟糯米、炒勻,上碟留待釀入乳豬內。
Add the steamed glutinous rice into the wok and mix thoroughly with all the ingredients. Dish up and set aside to be stuffed into the pig.