DIY - 2020 Highlander Installing OEM Tow Converter, harness and Curt Hitch Installation! Updated! | Toyota Nation Forum
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DIY - 2020 Highlander Installing OEM Tow Converter, harness and Curt Hitch Installation! Updated!

99K views 211 replies 76 participants last post by  21HighXLE 
#1 · (Edited)
I went ahead and going to put this all together in one topic because there is a lot of different posts with mixed information.

The reason I am going with the Curt, is because it allows the hands free tailgate to continue to work since the Curt hitch sits behind the sensor unlike the OEM you lose it completely with and have to relocate the sensor. The Curt is slightly lower than the OEM one as well, but you can flip the hitch ball receiver going up instead of down.

Tools:
1 - 10mm socket
1 - extension
1 - Rachet
1 - Tie Strap (Optional)

Parts:
1 - Toyota Tow Converter PN# PT725-48200
1 - Toyota 4 pin Wire Harness PN# PT725-48201
1 - Curt Hitch 13453

Link: Curt Hitch Installation below

Installation Procedure:

1. Move rear seat on driver 2nd row forward.

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2. Pop this panel up and out with your hands. Start with the carpet side and pull up.

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3. Remove cap off of screw with pry tool into the small slot at the top of it. This will expose the 10mm bolt hidden.

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4. Remove 10mm Nut from behind the cover first before removing cup holders.

5. Pry up the cup holders panel with the plastic pry tool as seen. Easiest way was to use it upside down and stick it in and twist it. And it started to pop.

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6. Remove cover.

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7. Remove the bolt behind where the cup holder was.

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8. Pull down the chrome hook and open the plastic cover inside(behind) it as seen in the pictures below. This exposes another 10mm nut and remove it.

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Next Reply continued.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
9. Remove the door rubber seal by pulling it up and to the left.

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10. Next Pull the panel from the window out to the inside of the car, it will take some force to pop it loose.

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11. Next grab your Toyota OEM converter to install with 10mm bolt.

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12. Pull panel away and install the Tow Converter into factory hole with supplied bolt. It will be difficult to get into there with two hands, but just work it in. There is a slot the bracket goes into and then put the bolt into it. Prevents it from turning the wrong direction. Twist the bolt into the hole as far as you can do it by hand, then use the rachet to install.

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13. Next release the connector next to it that is tapped. It's the one to the right in the picture above. Just pull on it and the tape will break.

14. Insert that connector into the Tow Converter bottom with the release side out.

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15. Put the interior back together the same way you took it apart. Make sure the panel snaps are lined up with the holes near the door before pushing it all the way in.

16. Once the interior is put together, go to engine compartment.

17. Pop engine, on the right side, there is a fuse box. Pop the panel open.

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18. If you do not have the 30amp fuse installed, you will need to install the supplied 30amp that came with the tow converter in the highlighted red section above.

19. Close the fuse box back up.

Next Reply for continued.
 
#3 ·
19. Go to rear of vehicle, driver side, and lay under the back end.

20. You will see a white connector cap that you will have to remove. Push in the left side of it and pull down.

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21. Once removed, it will look like this.

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22. Grab supplied Toyota 4 pin cable.

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23. Wrap it over the bumper connection and connect it.

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24. For now, I have it tie strapped to the metal body bracket till I get my hitch. This will be continued then. But if you have a hitch, you would route it to the mounting location on it, and mount this wire with the supplied screws to it.
 
#43 ·
19. Go to rear of vehicle, driver side, and lay under the back end.

20. You will see a white connector cap that you will have to remove. Push in the left side of it and pull down.

View attachment 305720

View attachment 305721

21. Once removed, it will look like this.

View attachment 305722

22. Grab supplied Toyota 4 pin cable.

View attachment 305723

23. Wrap it over the bumper connection and connect it.

View attachment 305724

24. For now, I have it tie strapped to the metal body bracket till I get my hitch. This will be continued then. But if you have a hitch, you would route it to the mounting location on it, and mount this wire with the supplied screws to it.
Best documentation there is. I only lost 3 screws in the panel. I really appreciate you showing us how it's done. Waiting on my hitch to come to complete the work. Again thank you so much.
 
#7 ·
Thanks you everyone. Appreciate the kind words. Helps make the community grow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#8 ·
First off, agree with the props to @pimpin-tl !

I just had a question about this step:

2. Pop this panel up and out with your hands. Start with the carpet side and pull up.

View attachment 305702
Removing that panel is not in the installation sheet for the converter and I was wondering if in the end you found it to be necessary or if the side panel would have pulled out far enough to reach the converter mounting location without doing so?
 
#9 ·
First off, agree with the props to @pimpin-tl !

I just had a question about this step:



Removing that panel is not in the installation sheet for the converter and I was wondering if in the end you found it to be necessary or if the side panel would have pulled out far enough to reach the converter mounting location without doing so?
Unless you have tiny arms and hands, you really do need to pull the panel out like in my picture. It actually isn’t that hard to get it the amount I did. You don’t need to remove it or remove the bottom. Just release the upper half and lean it out while holding it back use your other hand to mount it.


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#11 ·
You know, you probably don’t need to do that step if you want to get behind the panel and just work with the tight space. That lower part was in the Toyota instructions so I included it but never removed the whole panel myself either.


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#12 ·
Ordered the Curt Hitch today. Will complete this diy once I receive it. :)


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#14 ·
I'll definitely have pictures, but not a video as I'll be the only one installing it. lol.
 
#16 ·
I haven't even received my hitch yet. I'll post once I get it installed. :)
 
#17 ·
Seems the place i ordered the hitch from realtruck.com is screwing around with me. Wont give me tracking or a response on where my order is. I finally opened a claim with PayPal since they can't answer it to get a refund and I'll order elsewhere.
 
#18 ·
Awesome - thank you! I installed the hitch on our last Rav and I wish someone posted as

I just ordered from autoanything.com. I chatted with an agent that made sure I received one of the 3 they had in stock, vs shooting me to back stock. I’ll let you know if it ships this week!

Also, do you have the Toyota Hitch Prep installed or did you do all the wiring yourself?
 
#19 ·
All the wiring is done by me as seen in the diy above. I just need the hitch itself to get here. Lol
 
#21 ·
Yep saw that. I wish I got it there but I ordered it from Amazon the second time around which shipped. It'll be here tomorrow.
 
#22 ·
Hello Bro pimpin-tl, thanks for the all the infos, (step-by-step) very much appreciated. Just want to ask where did you order your parts below, want to order as well and install.
Parts:
1 - Toyota Tow Converter PN# PT725-48200
1 - Toyota 4 pin Wire Harness PN# PT725-48201
1 - Curt Hitch 13453 (Soon)
 
#24 · (Edited)
Curt Hitch Installation

Tools:

1 - 10mm
1 - 12mm
1 - 17mm
1 - 19mm

1 - 6" socket extension
1 - Rachet
1 - Plastic Pry tool or flathead screwdriver
4-6 - long tie straps
2 - Jack Stands or Jacks
1 - Torque Wrench ft. lb.


1. Unpack the new Curt Hitch out of the box.

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2. Next, get under the back end of the Highlander, and remove the plastic shield, bracket off from driver side. Remove all the 10mm bolts and plugs with flat head by popping out the center first then the whole unit will come out. See pictures below all circled.

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3. Once all bolts and plugs are removed, these last two higher up, will need you to pull down at the same time as unscrewing it. They do not come off and if you try to pull it, it could break them.


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4. And it's off. Next remove all the plugs from under the car on the frame rails. All Circled in red. Use the pry tool to just pop them out. Also, remove bracket on passenger side. That will not be reinstalled.

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Continued on next post....
 
#25 · (Edited)
5. Remove the rest of the snap plugs on the rear of the bumper that stretch across where the hitch needs to go.

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6.. Get yourself two jackstands, or jacks and sit the hitch on them like below in the pictures. You can slowly notch it up on each side till it gets to the height you need. On the passenger side, you will need to wedge it above the muffler, but also above that plastic deflector that is above the muffler tip. That can be bent down while you push the hitch up.

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7. Once you get it high enough, start to work in the back bolt towards the front of the car. Once you get it turned on a couple of threads each side, then you can start with the rest. This may require help, but I was able to do it myself with the help of the jack stands.

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8. Tighten them all up to 86 ft. lb. of torque with a Torque Wrench.

9. Next pull the trailer harness out, that you wired earlier in this DIY, and tie strap it to the bottom of the hitch. I didn't have another way to mount it, but the tie straps should work fine for this. Used the tie straps to route the wire behind the hitch bar as well.


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9. Cut the cover in the two places you see in the pictures below. I did not follow Curts instructions on the cut, I wanted the holes to be smaller. So I put it up, saw where it needed to be cut, and cut, checked, cut, checked, cut and it was good.

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10. Reinstall all the bolts and snap plugs back into the cover, mudflap area, and the flaps that come down to the bumper area.

11. Done!
 
#135 ·
Question: (first of all thanks for all of this great detailed info)... I bought this same Curt hitch, and I thought I read on this forum that it will allow the hands-free liftgate to still work? I notice there is mention in your notes of having to MOVE the sensor? Is that true? How does one move the sensor? Is it very straight-forward? Thanks for your response.
 
#26 · (Edited)
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#28 ·
Anti-Rattle security lock. Forget where I got it, its like 10 years old now and recently found it again, so I put it on for now.
 
#30 ·
You'll have to relocate the foot sensor either way because it'll be in the way for the install. The oem hitch sticks out a lot more than the Curt due to it having a step on it.
 
#31 ·
On the Limited, the lower bumper panel matches the color of your car. The OEM install requires a replacement lower rear bumper panel with the correct cutout, but it is black, based on other research I have done. I just bought a Limited. I am going with the Curt. It comes out just below the existing lower rear bumper panel. Will not mess up the color scheme. But my use is mainly for a bike rack. I am going to put in the towing relay converter and the harness in case I ever need to tow something. Don’t really care much about the tail gate foot sensor.
 
#33 ·
First, thanks so much for this tutorial. Installed the tow relay converter, got everything back together with out breaking anything! I have 2 additional tips which I annotated on 2 of your photos. Here. Thanks again.
View attachment 309711

View attachment 309712
Good point. I forgot about that other bolt and leaving the cup holders on is good advice. I'll edit the post when I get to a pc again.
 
#34 ·
Updated instructions.
 
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#35 ·
HI, I'm the new owner of a 2020 Highlander XLE. I got the Toyota hitch and flat 4 wire plug installed with the purchase. I have a 3,500 lb boat that I tow on a trailer with surge brakes. I need the back-up light connection to allow me to back the trailer. The dealer did put on a 7 pin receptacle, but didn't wire anything other than the 4 wire plug that plugs into the back or the 7 pin receptacle. Can anyone tell me where to best find access to the back-up light wiring? I've seen on-line videos of the installation in a 2019 Highlander, but the 2020 seems to be a little different in the wiring from the rear of the vehicle to the rear door where the back-up lights are. Also, do I need a relay to get enough power to the solenoid in the surge brake or is the wiring robust enough to handle it? Thanks, this has been very frustrating getting a new vehicle (my 2006 4Runner was all set up) that doesn't seem to easily be set up for a surge brake trailer.
 
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