May 21, 2024
America doesn’t follow a style agenda—it’s a country that sets it. There’s the famed streets of New York City, where Uptowners don their sophisticated staples and Downtown mavericks embody contemporary individualism with rule-breaking statement pieces. Then, on the opposite coast, you’ll find the sleek uniform of Jacquemus blazers and retro jeans adopted by LA cool girls such as Hailey Bieber and Kendall Jenner. In between, it’s Western flair as far as the eye can see—cowboy boots, Americana prints, and Nudie Suits reign supreme. In short: the United States is a melting pot of unique sartorial bids. So, it’s no wonder that the Metropolitan Museum has decided to dedicate its exhibition and its yearly fête to the very best American fashion designers. This year's Met Gala theme is the confluence of two separate exhibits (In America: A Lexicon of Fashion, which opens on September 18, 2021, and In America: An Anthology of Fashion, which opens in May 2022). Basically, get ready to see some ’90s Tom Ford silhouettes and a color palette of red, white, and blue, courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger.
In preparation for the much-adored Met Gala, we thought it was high time to brush up on our American fashion knowledge—to pay tribute to those from LA to New York who have redefined the term “style” and reshaped our everyday wardrobes along the way. Below, find the best American fashion designers that you can shop right now.
1. Halston
American fashion wouldn’t be what it is today without the ultra-glamorous designs offered by Roy Halston Frowick—otherwise known as Halston. Starting as a milliner at Bergdorf Goodman in the early ’60s, Halston built a reputation for creating innovative accessories adored by high society (he is the man behind Jackie Kennedy’s pillbox hat). But Halston understood that the world was changing, and he knew he needed to expand his artistic touch as a result. With that, he created his own womenswear line in 1968, and it was an instant success.
Rejecting the restrictive ’50s corset skirts pioneered by Christian Dior, the American designer centered his collections on unstifled femininity, creating caftan dresses, elegant jumpsuits, and ultra-suede garments that complement the natural curvature of women’s bodies. His designs were adopted by celebrities like Liza Minelli, high-fashion models like Pat Cleveland and Karen Bjornsen (who would later become the Halstonettes), and has even inspired a Netflix series and an exclusive capsule collection.
2. Tom Ford
You can’t utter the words American fashion without thinking of Tom Ford. After working at New York fashion house Perry Ellis, Ford joined the Gucci workforce as an in-house designer. Through the entrepreneurial tutelage of Dawn Mello, the young designer developed an acute understanding of the inner workings of the fashion industry—knowledge that served him well when he was appointed the Italian brand’s creative director. At the helm of Gucci, Ford transformed the then-struggling fashion house into a hub of distinctive style.
His provocative campaigns (we all remember the “G” wax), combined with his ’70-style silhouettes donned by Gwyneth Paltrow and sensual product range (see the Gucci thong)—all of these served as flashpoints that cast the brand in a new light; one of high-fashion sex appeal. It’s this rebellious spirit and understanding of the modern woman that makes Ford such an expert designer, and it’s a practice that he has carried into the eponymous line that he launched in 2005. Consisting of luxury sunglasses, lust-worthy fragrance, and expert tailoring, the Tom Ford brand caters to the person we all want to be.
3. Kate Spade
The wide success of Kate Spade means that you have probably stumbled across one of her famous bags without knowing. Following a successful career as a fashion and jewelry editor, Missouri-born Spade decided to channel her creative energy elsewhere. In 1993, a Kate Spade boutique opened in the fashionable neighborhood of Soho, Manhattan. The brick-and-mortar shop specialized in luxury handbags with a recognizable modern edge, consisting of colorful hues and utilitarian shapes. One of the brand’s standout pieces is the Sam Bag, which launched the same year as the brand’s inception; its boxy exterior, sleek color palette, and nylon fabrication made it a ’90s hit.
Following its initial success, Kate Spade expanded rapidly moving into womenswear and shoes, ensuring that all products continued to align with the brand’s motto: “live colorfully.” And while the brand’s founder is no longer with us, her presence can still be felt through the brand’s ebullient product range.
4. Ralph Lauren
The tale of Ralph Lauren is one of aspiration, and how, like the fictitious Jay Gatsby, you can cultivate the life you want simply by dressing the part. Born Ralph Rueben Lifshitz, which he changed in his adolescence to sound more American, the designer first showed an interest in the world of fashion when working for a Manhattan-based tie company. It was here where he developed an affinity for quintessentially British style (think cable-knit sweaters, tweed suits, and luxurious neckwear) which became the basis of his 1963 collection.
Popular amongst the sporty American East Coast elite, the line included signature staples like the polo shirt (decorated with the brand’s renowned logo) and collegiate-style blazers. Ralph Lauren became associated with a moneyed look that was equally aspirational as it was attainable. Though the designer has since stepped down from the eponymous brand, Ralph Lauren’s contemporary collections still show the same affinity for expertly crafted clothes.
5. Anna Sui
For some, designing is less of a choice and more of a calling. This was the reality for Anna Sui who decided she wanted to become a fashion designer at the young age of four. Born in Detroit, Sui started experimenting with different aesthetics through the encouragement of her mother, which eventually led her to attend Parsons School of Design. There, she fostered a relationship with acclaimed fashion photographer Steven Meisel, who would later photograph her designs on Madonna. After gaining some experience in the sportswear industry, Sui decided to start producing her eponymous line.
Inspired by the alt-girl-adjacent ’80s grunge movement, she started creating clothes aimed at a younger, more rebellious demographic, which caught the eye of the fashion press and scored her a slot at the coveted New York Fashion Week. Some of Sui’s most notable designs include the ’90s baby doll dress, which has been sported by supermodels Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista, and her punk-centric footwear, products that have since helped Sui expand into fragrance and cosmetics. It’s her ability to move with the times and understand the changing fashion landscape, shown by the products below, that has made Sui such a revered force in American fashion.
6. Virgil Abloh (Off-White and Louis Vuitton)
With a name like Virgil Abloh, it’s no wonder that he is synonymous with the coolest fashion pieces to date. Starting his career as the creative director of Kanye West’s Donda agency (the pair bonded during their time interning at Fendi), Abloh has not had the most traditional route into the world of fashion design. But, in a way, that’s exactly what’s made his work so groundbreaking. His multi-disciplinary touch, calling on all creative facets such as art, design, and music has made him standout amongst the pool of American fashion designers and even scored him a Grammy nomination.
In 2013, the multi-hyphenate launched Off-White, an apparel and accessory brand that combines streetwear and luxury fashion—flanked by Off-White’s signature hovering quotation marks, which are showcased throughout its footwear and leather goods. The success of Off-White solidified the American designer’s innovative vision, landing him the role of creative director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear division in 2018. It’s a position that he has truly made his own, incorporating stronger elements of diversity and expanding the realities of catwalk with his performance-based runway presentations.
7. Tory Burch
Tory Burch has made a name for herself by producing wardrobe staples that are made to last. After working for Yugoslavian-designer Zoran and heading up PR for brands like Vera Wang, Ralph Lauren, and Loewe, Burch set her sights on a new venture and decided to open her boutique in 2004. Through this initial store, set in Manhattan’s Nolita district, Burch wanted to build an experience focused on femininity and freedom—notions she incorporated in everything from the store’s music to her candle choice. This approach proved to be successful as Burch sold out of all her product by the end of the first day, and it’s one she has continued throughout her business. The expansion of her collection into handbags and jewelry, and the introduction of her subsidiary line Tory Sport, shows how Burch is constantly working to represent women—in all their forms.
8. Calvin Klein
Surprisingly, Calvin Klein’s arrival into the world of fashion wasn’t through the medium of underwear—though that has become one of his signature products. Born in the city of New York, the American fashion designer acquired his interest in dressing from his grandmother, who was a tailor in a local boutique. His constant visits to her shop encouraged Klein to start sketching different garments, eventually landing him a seat at the prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology in 1963. From there, Klein would juggle a series of low-paying industry jobs until he decided to take matters into his own hands and start his eponymous brand.
With financial backing from his childhood friend Barry K. Schwartz, Klein was able to cultivate his first collection—focused on technical tailoring, luxurious fabric choices, and minimalist designs made to last. But it was his venture into menswear that positioned him as a key player in luxury denim; you’ll probably remember the iconic campaigns starring Brooke Shields and Mark Wahlberg in Klein cladding. Once Klein had conquered the world of denim, it wasn’t long before the designer would dominate the rest of the industry with the release of underwear and fragrances, both of which have become best-selling products for the brand. Today, Calvin Klein still embodies the same commitment to quality clothing for each and every person.
9. Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen (The Row)
Actresses-turned-fashion powerhouses Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen didn’t take the traditional route into the design world. With no formal training—aside from a few collaborations with retailers like Walmart and JCPenney—the famous duo made their first “real” mark on the industry in 2006 by debuting a range of classic white tees under the name The Row (an ode to Saville Row—the British street known to house esteemed tailors).
While a plain white tee may not be considered the boldest of debuts, like Molly Goddard’s vibrant pink hue tulle skirt, The Row’s success lies in its ability to play on the finer details. From the French seam in its Wesler Cotton T-Shirt that prevents unwelcome bunching to the pleats in the trousers for a polished and pragmatic look, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have built a brand around a commitment to sartorial elegance; the type of pristine, pared-back style that keeps fashion fans like Zoë Kravitz and Kendall Jenner coming back season after season.
10. Zac Posen
You can’t have American glamour without Zac Posen. From a young age, the American designer displayed a natural aptitude for fashion, which his mother and father encouraged by allowing him to enroll in a pre-college program at the prestigious Parsons School of Design. After that, the only way was up for young Posen. In 1999, he started studying at Central Saint Martins in London. It was here where supermodel Naomi Campbell stumbled across one of his designs that was emblematic of Posen’s sensual and elegant design touch and requested a bespoke dress. Two years later, he was on the official New York Fashion Week schedule, showcasing his eponymous line with esteemed Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour supporting him from the front row.
With a natural skill for expertly tailored dresses that were elegant and sexy, with a fairytale element to them, Posen became the in-demand designer for the hottest galas and red carpet events. In 2008, Posen decided to expand his product offerings into bags and shoes—all with the same whimsical through-line, but built to be more applicable to the modern woman. Fast-forward 11 years later, and in 2019, the New York designer announced the closure of his eponymous brand and subsidiary due to the growing financial difficulties accumulated by the brand. While Posen is no longer producing ready-to-wear collections (don’t worry, you can find vintage styles on the Outnet), his pieces will forever embody the unwavering spirit of American glamour.
11. Marc Jacobs
What would American fashion be without Marc Jacobs? Short answer: boring. Born and bred in the forever stylish New York City, Jacobs’ was first encouraged to pick up a sewing needle by his grandmother, who taught him the basis of design on evenings when he would stay over at her apartment. This first dalliance was what encouraged the American designer to further hone his craft at the Parsons School of Design, where he would go on to present a sold-out graduation collection of oversized knit sweaters. This would not only get him institutional praise, but would also lay the groundwork to a highly successful career in fashion.
Jacob’s ability to take a holistic view of pop culture and hone in on specific parts, ascribing a uniform to them, is what has made him such a standout designer. This is most prominent in his womenswear collections for Perry Ellis (Jacobs was named vice president of womenswear for the brand in 1988), where he gained much praise for his grunge collection which played off the emerging music scene—think bold combat boots paired with ultra-feminine dresses. In 1993, Jacobs relaunched his signature brand, and the rest is history. Since this initial launch, Jacobs has gone on to release a series of subsidiary lines like Marc by Marc Jacobs, Marc Jacobs Beauty, and most recently his brand Heaven which consists of teenage-dream-inspired clothes.
12. Tommy Hilfiger
With his signature red, white, and blue color palette, you can’t get more American than designer Tommy Hilfiger. His rise to fashion titan didn’t happen overnight—it was a tour de force in entrepreneurial resilience. After a series of short-lived ventures focused on denim and bohemian apparel, Hilfiger was approached by Indian entrepreneur Mohan Murjani in 1984 to head a new sportswear label. Hilfiger agreed with one condition: that the line be named after him.
The pair kicked off Hilfiger’s arrival to the fashion scene with overt marketing tactics, that presented the American designer as the next Calvin Klein or Ralph Lauren. Though bold, it was an approach that worked, as Hilfiger’s preppy designs consisting of oversized rugby shirts and tailored denim were adopted by key ’90s fashion players like Snoop Dogg and Kate Moss.
With Hilfiger still as the principal designer, the brand has expanded massively from its original core line. The designer has welcomed collaborations with contemporary figures like Zendaya and Gigi Hadid, who have ensured that the Hilfiger brand continues to serve as a mirror for the world around it. It’s for this reason that Tommy Hilfiger is still a part of the fashion conversation today.
13. Kate Mulleavy and Laura Mulleavy (Rodarte)
American fashion gets a fantastical twist, thanks to Rodarte’s head designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy. After the pair had graduated from the University of California, the sibling duo began pooling funds for their first collection, taking jobs waitressing and selling their personal possessions to earn the money needed. Completely self-taught, the pair created a capsule collection of seven dresses and two coats under the name Rodarte (the Spanish pronunciation of their mother’s maiden name). Their work was featured in the February 2005 issue of WWD for its whimsical, ultra-romantic designs, which look like they have come straight from A Midsummer Night’s Dream. It wasn’t long before fashion matriarch Anna Wintour became aware of the brand eventually giving Rodarte her seal of approval. Today, the duo are still the head designers at the brand offering whimsical collections that act as the perfect medium between fantasy and reality.
14. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez (Proenza Schouler)
A culmination of designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez’s mother’s maiden names, Proenza Schouler was born out of friendship and a shared appreciation for fashion. Launched as part of this senior thesis at Parsons, their first collection, consisting of slouchy tops, outerwear, and evening dresses, was bought in its entirety by Barneys.
Since their debut collection, Proenza Schouler has really come to understand its design aesthetic of refined ease and youthful vigor (the brand featured Ella Emhoff in its Fall/Winter 2021 collection) as well as its signature pieces like the PS1 handbag. What’s more: its exclusive collaborations with brands like Birkenstock and MAC Cosmetics have further cemented the brand’s success. Today, Proenza’s seductive silhouettes and staple accessories stand as symbols of contemporary culture.
15. Michael Kors
Last (but by no means, least) on this list is Michael Kors. Appearing in a slew of modeling campaigns as a child, Kors had started accumulating knowledge of the fashion industry from a very young age—one that the American fashion designer would constantly add to when Vogue arrived each month. In the early ’70s, Kors left his hometown on Long Island to study at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City. However, he dropped out after two semesters.
Still determined to make his mark on the industry, Kors worked in a variety of boutiques and eventually launched his first Michael Kors’ women’s collection in 1981. The collection consisted of elegant staples like tailored blazers and evening dresses, all of which were made for the New York woman. This sophisticated aesthetic has become a key part of the brand’s DNA (Michelle Obama opted for a Michael Kors dress for her first official portrait) but Michael Kors, through his subsidiary line, has also been able to gain mass-market appeal, offering handbags and watches at more achievable price points. This ability to walk the line between high-fashion and commerciality has ensured the success of the American brand.
