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Fashion Design

1922 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This fashion design was created by the House of Worth for the actress and theatre director Charlotte Lysès in 1922. It was probably designed by Jean-Charles Worth, the creative director at Worth at that time who succeeded his uncle Jean-Philippe after the First World War ended in 1918. Charlotte Lysès (1877-1956) is best known in England for being the first wife of Sacha Guitry. Many successful performers, actors and celebrities bought their clothes from French couture houses such as Worth and Paquin, though by the 1920s, younger and newer designers such as Chanel, Patou and Molyneux offered a challenge to the longer-established houses.

Worth was founded in Paris in the 1850s by Charles Frederick Worth and Otto Bobergh, quickly came to the attention of Empress Eugenie of France, and subsequently became one of the couturiers of choice of royalty across Europe, dressing the crowned heads of Norway, Italy, Denmark, Russia and Spain as well as Belgium. After Worth died in 1895, his son, Jean-Philippe, became designer. After the 1910s, Jean-Philippe appointed his nephew, Jean-Charles to succeed him as designer, and in the mid-1930s, his son Roger Worth, Charles' great-grandson, took over as designer. Roger's brother, Maurice, was the last designer for Worth in the early 1950s before the Paris house of Worth was bought out by Paquin in 1953. Paquin closed in 1956, donating a wide range of fashion plates and designs from their archives and reference collections to the Victoria & Albert Museum. The London house of Worth was originally a branch from the Paris house that opened in 1911. In 1936, the London fashion house Reville-Terry took over the branch and renamed it "Worth London", with Elspeth Champcommunal as head designer. From that point, until its closure in 1967, Worth London was a completely separate business to Worth Paris.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
watercolour and gouache on white paper, cut out and pasted to sugar paper
Brief description
Jean-Charles Worth. Black coat with silver fox trimming for Charlotte Lysès. Dated 1922
Physical description
Original fashion design for a black coat with silver fox collar and cuffs and a coloured applique with long fringe at the hip designed for Charlotte Lysès, annotated with client's name and date. The design drawn on white paper and cut out and pasted to textured grey paper.
Credit line
Given by the House of Worth
Summary
This fashion design was created by the House of Worth for the actress and theatre director Charlotte Lysès in 1922. It was probably designed by Jean-Charles Worth, the creative director at Worth at that time who succeeded his uncle Jean-Philippe after the First World War ended in 1918. Charlotte Lysès (1877-1956) is best known in England for being the first wife of Sacha Guitry. Many successful performers, actors and celebrities bought their clothes from French couture houses such as Worth and Paquin, though by the 1920s, younger and newer designers such as Chanel, Patou and Molyneux offered a challenge to the longer-established houses.

Worth was founded in Paris in the 1850s by Charles Frederick Worth and Otto Bobergh, quickly came to the attention of Empress Eugenie of France, and subsequently became one of the couturiers of choice of royalty across Europe, dressing the crowned heads of Norway, Italy, Denmark, Russia and Spain as well as Belgium. After Worth died in 1895, his son, Jean-Philippe, became designer. After the 1910s, Jean-Philippe appointed his nephew, Jean-Charles to succeed him as designer, and in the mid-1930s, his son Roger Worth, Charles' great-grandson, took over as designer. Roger's brother, Maurice, was the last designer for Worth in the early 1950s before the Paris house of Worth was bought out by Paquin in 1953. Paquin closed in 1956, donating a wide range of fashion plates and designs from their archives and reference collections to the Victoria & Albert Museum. The London house of Worth was originally a branch from the Paris house that opened in 1911. In 1936, the London fashion house Reville-Terry took over the branch and renamed it "Worth London", with Elspeth Champcommunal as head designer. From that point, until its closure in 1967, Worth London was a completely separate business to Worth Paris.
Bibliographic reference
Victoria and Albert Museum Department of Prints and Drawings and Department of Paintings Accessions 1957-1958 London: HMSO, 1964
Collection
Accession number
E.22239-1957

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Record createdJune 30, 2009
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