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The Biggest PFW Trends From Fall/Winter 2020 & How To Wear Them
As another fashion month comes to a close, we’re taking a look at the all the PFW trends that you need to know for next season!
- by Nav Gill
- Last Updated: May 15, 2024
Edited by Jaclyn Bloomfield
1/17
Luxe Latex
Latex may not be the first thing that springs to mind when you picture Parisian runways, but the smooth, ultra form-fitting fabric stole the show at both Balmain and Saint Laurent this FW20 season.
Anthony Vaccarello added an electric touch to Saint Laurent’s collection, with latex dresses, leggings and pussybow halterneck tops arriving in vibrant hues of red and purple.
Olivier Rousteing took an alternative route, opting for dark brown, tan and caramel tones for his latex-tinged collection. Here, we saw tops that appeared to be almost sculpted onto the body as well as turtlenecks, slick leggings and oversized blazers. The real moment latex was cemented as a need-to-know trend, however, is when Kourtney and Kim Kardashian wore these Balmain pieces mere days after their runway debut to Kanye West’s Sunday Service.
How to Wear: This trend is definitely one for the more daring and while a full latex look may be a little too extreme for most, there are ways to incorporate the trend into more pared-back outfits. Start off simple by choosing items like latex leggings or easier still, accessories like latex gloves, to add a futuristic touch to your look.
2/17
PFW Trends: Check, Please!
Checks are a perennial favorite when it comes to seasonal patterns, and although the runways this month were peppered with variations on the print, including gingham and plaid, the classic check shone through on the Paris runways. Arriving mostly in muted tones of camel, tan and dark brown, as well as contrasting hues of navy, deep red and pastel blue, the timeless check transitioned seamlessly into the contemporary outerwear seen at Givenchy, Lanvin and Hermès, amongst others.
The refined check also found its way onto skirts and shirt-dresses at the likes of Dior, Chloé and Miu Miu, proving that the print is here to stay through the FW20 season and likely beyond.
How to Wear: It’s hard to go wrong with such a classic pattern, but the key is to choose one statement piece in a checked print to act as the focal point of your look. If you do opt to double-down on the trend, take your style cues from Givenchy and Miu Miu and select pieces that have matching or similarly-sized checks to keep look consistent.
3/17
Everyday Leathers
When it comes to fall/winter, leather is a staple in most women’s wardrobes. This season, we saw the fabric take on exaggerated silhouettes like ’80s power shoulder at Miu Miu and remixed rock ‘n’ roll at Off-White. Matte black leather was the most popular iteration of this trend – understandably so, since it’s long been the symbol of understated yet edgy garments, however glossy leather had its moment at both Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton.
At Hermès and Louis Vuitton, leather veered away from structural silhouettes and instead took on a more romantic approach, with sleek pleating and ruffled details adding a more fluid look to the fabric. Accessories, like chunky boots, statement belts and gloves were also given a makeover in leather, allowing those who may be less daring with this trend an easy way to incorporate it into their everyday looks.
How to Wear: If you’re no newcomer to this trend, FW20 is the perfect season to cement your commitment to the leather look and go all-in with a full leather jacket and pants combo. If you’re looking for a simpler way to incorporate leather into your closet, stick to classic pieces like a leather jacket or trench coat or alternatively, invest in some new-season leather accessories, like elbow-length opera gloves.
4/17
Shear Genius
Shearling is an obvious choice for the winter season; not only is it timelessly chic, it will keep you cozy on those colder days too. The fuzzy fabric was all over Paris’ FW20 runways in muted, neutral colorways like cream, light brown and camel. Shearling coats were commonplace, with CELINE opting for ’70s-style shaffy shearling coats, Isabel Marant showcasing oversized power-coats and Stella McCartney transforming the teddy-bear look into an elegant, long-line coat.
At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri chose to construct cool, cropped-to-the-hip bomber jackets from a soft, cream shearling complemented by oversized, ribbed detailing in brown on the cuffs and hem. For those who prefer a more laid-back take on the shearling outerwear trend, selecting casual silhouettes like this contemporary bomber is the ideal entry-point.
How to Wear: A high-quality shearling coat is the ultimate investment piece. Not only will this timeless garment transcend seasonal trends, it will retain its look and function to serve you well in the years to come. Ever-chic, this transformative coat has the ability to make you look effortlessly put-together, regardless of the rest of your look.
5/17
PFW Trends: Stark Contrast
For a low-key yet statement look this season, look no further than stark contrast outfit pairing. On the runway, this trend was translated mostly in monochromatic finishes, with entirely black and white ensembles bringing an almost cinematic feel to the collections.
At Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent, this was translated through styling, with black and white separates worn together for an impactful half-and-half look. At Balmain, Chanel and Givenchy, however, garments were spliced together in two separate tones, resulting in coats, blazers and blouses that look instantly cool thanks to their sharp, graphic appeal.
How to Wear: The sheer simplicity of this trend makes it one of the easiest FW20 looks to pull off. Simply pair together separate garments in black and white for a sleek and chic outfit. Alternatively, you could opt for a fully tonal look in black, contrasted by white footwear and accessories, or vice versa.
6/17
'70s Bourgeoisie
The seventies inspiration has been almost too apparent across all the fashion weeks for fall/winter 2020, however the footwear was where it really came into play in Paris.
At Dries Van Noten, we saw psychedelic, stacked platform boots whilst Paco Rabanne kept it a little more muted in chunky, tonal brown boots. CELINE opted for platform loafers and classy T-bar shoes in leather, some with an on-trend croc-embossed leather finish. Rochas chose an even girlier approach, showcasing platform velvet sandals in ultra-feminine colors like pastel pink and lilac with a double ankle-strap fastening. The theme also extended to the wider ready-to-wear collections, particularly when it came to outerwear. Long-line coats with oversized, shaggy collars were the go-to silhouette that we’re sure to see on the street style set as the fall/winter season approaches.
How to Wear: The chunky, ultra-high nature of seventies footwear means it’s best-placed to wear with wide-leg pants or floaty midi dresses. Additionally, you could embrace the era fully with some flared jeans to wear alongside some retro platform boots. The ’70s coats are statement-makers all on their own but you can add some definition to the exaggerated silhouette by styling with a belt at the waist.
7/17
Peacoat 2.0
The traditional, navy-inspired peacoat received a modernized update this season, with everyone from Jonathan Anderson at Loewe to Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino putting their own spin on the formal garment. We saw the coat transformed into a heavy wool cape, adorned with gold-tone buttons, a hip-skimming coat with squared, mutton shoulders and an elegant navy wool silhouette with a wide neckline and off-kilter lapels.
These classy coats as a parallel to the edgy outerwear seen elsewhere on the runways during fashion month, and have the ability to add a refined element to your fall wardrobe.
How to Wear: The traditional cut and toned-down color of these peacoats mean they’re well-suited to be paired with the more formal garments in your wardrobe. Select structured tailoring, or ’70s-inspired skirts and blouses to complement this retro piece.
8/17
PFW Trends: Modern Trenches
The timeless trench is seen pretty much every season, and for good reason too – it’s a silhouette which genuinely never goes out of style. Thanks to it essentially being a blank canvas of a garment, designers are able to reinterpret the coat every time in accordance with the newest trends.
FW20 gave us everything from short trenches with exaggerated epaulettes at Chloé and trench coats with built-in cropped capes at Nina Ricci to those with experimental draped panels on the sleeves at ROKH. Each trench coat on display this season had a decidedly contemporary twist, cementing the garment’s status as an essential piece in the wardrobes of modern women, worldwide.
How to Wear: Trench coats are amongst the most versatile of outerwear pieces and can act as the ultimate topper, whatever your outfit. Style these with garments in complementary tones for an on-trend “espresso dressing” look as seen on the London Fashion Week circuit, or else contrast a neutral trench coat with darker pieces, like the black leather pants seen at the Off-White show.
9/17
Nouveau Knits
Not just resigned to cozy sweaters, this season knits made their presence known in almost every garment you could imagine. From knitted power dresses at Isabel Marant to knit cardigan and skirt combos at Altuzarra to full-body knitted looks at Paco Rabanne, the fabric truly made its mark in Paris.
Standout looks straight from the catwalk included Chanel’s knitted grey coatigan and skirt as well as Givenchy’s fuzzy, long-line cardigan with oversized pockets. This is one chic and comfy trend we’re willing to get behind when it comes to layering up this coming fall.
How to Wear: Embrace model off-duty style by throwing a casual, loose-fit cardigan over a ribbed top and denim jeans – this look works especially well during the summer to fall transition. When it comes to nailing a casual yet chic look, those matching knitted combos are the way to go and we predict they’ll be a hit with your favorite fashion influencers next season, too.
10/17
Cape Crusaders
Capes were a hit on the New York runways, so it was no surprise that the trend crossed over to the French capital, too. In Paris, however, the capes seemed to draw inspiration from more traditional silhouettes and colors. The palette was muted, with cream, grey, olive and navy amongst the most popular tones, though there was a slight element of color, like the dusty blue seen at Paco Rabanne.
Loewe took cues from the resurgence of the peacoat, adorning it’s long-line cape with a panelled front, lined with gold tone buttons. CELINE incorporated another trend, the check print, on its iteration of this season’s cape but Isabel Marant stole our attention with its expertly-draped oversized cape, cinched at the waist with a signature belt.
How to Wear: Capes are the ultimate way to appear almost effortlessly put-together this fall. Wear a cozy wool cape with knee-high boots and opera gloves for an easily on-trend look. Alternatively you could add even more glamour to an elegant evening look by finishing it off with a sleek silk or embroidered cape, too.
11/17
Feathers
Fashion week truly is the best time of year for fashion designers, industry insiders and influencers to peacock, so it seems fitting that one of the biggest PFW trends was quite literally, feathers. The opulent embellishment was spotted on the bottom of skirts, upon collars, across the front of sheer blouses and bringing some flair to footwear and accessories.
Key looks for us included Givenchy’s sheer black high-neck blouse with white feather detailing running diagonally and Dries Van Noten’s feather-hemmed skirt.
How to Wear: This trend can veer more toward the extravagant side of fashion, so if you’re reluctant to step out in a fully feathered look, incorporate it subtly through your accessory selection. Altuzarra’s feather-heeled shoes and feathered belt are both perfect examples of how you can make this outré trend more easily-wearable.
12/17
PFW Trends: Proportion Play
It’s no surprise that with Demna Gvasalia still at the helm, Balenciaga‘s FW20 show was packed with weird and wonderfully exaggerated silhoutettes. Oversized jackets and ultra-wide shoulders were present on mens and women’s pieces throughout the collection and the power-shoulder also made an appearance at Balmain.
Super-long, slouchy pants were a recurring theme within both Off-White and Valentino‘s collections, whereas elongated sleeves were spotted upon a monochrome shirt and reimagined trench coat at Loewe and on a larger-than-life coat at Margiela.
How to Wear: When it comes to statement-making pieces, it’s important to play down the rest of your outfit. When it comes to oversized blazers or outerwear, streamline your look with some sleek, tailored pants. Likewise, if you’ve opted for extra-long, slouchy pants, team them with a fitted turtleneck and some chunky jewelry.
13/17
Heavy Footing
It goes without saying that boots are a fall/winter essential, but it looks like this upcoming season, chunky silhouettes will continue their reign at the top of the PFW trends. The runways of Giambattista Valli and Valentino seemed to indicate that the lug sole boot will remain a key look, whilst brands like Paco Rabanne took inspiration from classic Dr. Martens, elevated with a luxurious edge.
Stella McCartney’s take on the trend included platform gum-sole boots contrasting the patent upper while Dior incorporated sportswear references by adding a shell-toe and rubber detailing on the heel.
How to Wear: Chunky boots aren’t only practical in the adverse weather than can come with the fall/winter season, they’re the ideal way to add some edge to any look. Pair them with denim jeans and a leather jacket for instant cool-girl appeal, or style them with midi dresses and soft fabrics to toughen up the look.
14/17
Modern Medallions
Statement jewelry always leaves it mark on the runway, but in Paris this season, it was all about the medallions. Gone was edgy, utilitarian hardware, replaced by ornate and oversized jewels that acted as the perfect centerpieces for labels like Alexander McQueen, Chanel, Saint Laurent and more.
Although the chains ranged from delicate and long to ultra-chunky, there’s no questioning that when it comes to the pendant – the bigger, the better.
How to Wear: Considering the sheer size of these statement medallions, you may want to tone down the rest of your look. We suggest pairing large jewelry agains more minimal, tonal garments to truly let your gems shine.
15/17
Statement Chokers
While a few seasons ago, the simple ’90s choker was the hottest commodity when it came to trends, the accessory has gotten a more elevated touch this season. Now, metal is the go-to, with chokers arriving in a slew of statement, metallic options.
Our favorite picks from the runway include Chanel”s black and crystal-studded chain choker, Saint Laurent’s classic velvet band and oversized gold chain combo and Alexander McQueen’s futuristic double band in smooth, mirror-like silver.
How to Wear: The beauty of statement chokers is that they can be worn with almost any look. Add some instant luxury to a casual outfit by accessorizing with a chunky, chain-link choker or make those party-ready looks even more opulent by opting for some heavily-embellished iterations.
16/17
PFW Trends: Glove It
Gloves are, indeed, a winter staple – necessary for keeping your extremities cozy in the colder months. That doesn’t make they can’t be chic, however, as evidenced at Paris Fashion Week. We spotted elbow-length opera gloves in leather at Balmain and Lanvin, whereas at Givenchy, they took on a more casual, rolled-down finish paired alongside a crisp, tailored suit.
At Off-White, Virgil Abloh used the accessory to add a flash of neon into his collection and French designer Marine Serre showcased her take on the trend in forest green and fuchsia crushed velvet.
How to Wear: The beauty of gloves is that they can easily be incorporated into any outfit. For casual looks, opt for short leather gloves like those seen at Lacoste, or play with textures like velvet. Add some old-school glamour to your occasionwear by pairing elegant evening dresses with elbow-length opera gloves in satin.
17/17
Hands Full
Following the runaway success of Bottga Veneta’s The Pouch bag, the clutch silhouette has cemented its staying power as a key trend for yet another season.
The silhouettes seen during Paris Fashion Week were so versatile, there’s a shape for occasion. Between Loewe and Isabel Marant’s softly structured clutch bags to Lanvin and Givenchy’s sturdier itereations and CELINE’s geometric take on the silhouettee, we’re truly spoilt for choice when it comes to deciding on the it-bag for FW20.
How to Wear: The simple, practical clutch bag may have traditionally been seen as the perfect accompaniment to elegant eveningwear but it’s also a great way to level-up your everyday outfit. Choose a statment-making yet still functional bag like those seen at Miu Miu to add some sophistication to your off-duty looks.
