Everything you need to know about Everglades National Park

Why you should go to Everglades National Park

Sprawling between South Florida’s Lake Okeechobee and the Gulf of Mexico, the Everglades is one of the world’s largest tropical wetlands. About 20 percent of the region is protected within the confines of Everglades National Park, the third largest national park after Death Valley and Yellowstone in the lower 48 states. While the park’s main purpose is preserving wilderness, Everglades also provides plenty of scope for outdoor adventure.

Although technically a wetland, perhaps it’s best to think of the Everglades as the nation’s slowest, widest river—a constant stream of freshwater roughly 60 miles wide, moving at a speed of around 2.5 miles per day as it makes its way south to Florida Bay. The Seminole people called the region Okeechobee (“river of grass”). And while a large part of the Everglades is covered in razor-sharp sawgrass, the region also encompasses mangroves, tropical hardwood hammocks (island forests), pine and cypress forests, freshwater prairie, and various marine and estuarine habitats.

(This ambitious new trail will someday connect South Florida’s two national parks.)

“A visitor with an untrained eye—especially one used to the dramatic vistas of some western national parks—might arrive at Everglades National Park and think ‘What's the big deal?’” says Eve Samples, executive director of Friends of the Everglades. “It's a park that requires you to really train your eye and be mindful and be present. When you do that, you can experience some really incredible and subtle nature.”

Where to find the best views in the park

With elevation ranging between sea level and eight feet, it’s not easy to snatch a lofty view of the park anywhere other than the 70-foot-high Shark Valley Observation Tower. Opened in 1984, the futuristic spiral renders views of up to 20 miles across the Everglades.

Fourteen miles west of Coe Visitor Center along the Main Park Road, the Pa-Hay-Okee boardwalk and elevated shade shelter provides another wide view across the river of grass.

One of the best coastal views is from the second-floor breezeway of the Guy Bradley Visitor Center in Flamingo.

Where to find the park’s best trails

Located near Coe Visitor Center, the Gumbo Limbo Trail (0.4 mile) and Anhinga Trail (0.8 mile) meander through Royal Palm hammock, while the 22-mile Long Pine Key Trails penetrate the park’s largest stand of native pines.

Dead flat and paved, the 15-mile Shark Valley Trail varies between sawgrass marsh and tropical hardwood hammocks. Despite the name, there aren’t any sharks, just snoozing gators to step around (at a safe distance, of course).

Where to spot wildlife

Flamingo village is surprisingly good for wildlife. Osprey hatch and raise their young on nesting towers beside the marina, while manatees and American crocodile are sometimes spotted in the bay and nearby mangrove channels.

Alligators routinely emerge from the swamp and sun themselves on or beside the Shark Valley Trail. It’s also a primo bird habitat for creepy-looking wood storks, gorgeous roseate spoonbills, and anhinga “snakebirds.”

Other places to watch gators and birdlife are the Anhinga Trail and Big Cypress Bend Boardwalk in Fakahatchee Strand Preserve State Park adjacent to the national park.

(Go on a wildlife odyssey through the Everglades and Key West.)

How to visit the park like a Nat Geo Explorer

National Geographic Young Explorer and conservation biologist Gabriela Tejeda has guided visitors along the park’s Florida Bay coast in boats, kayaks, and on paddleboards.

Her favorite way to explore inland areas is "slough slogging." It entails hiking in knee-to-waist-high water through sawgrass to reach secluded hardwood hammocks or cypress domes—flora and fauna rich arboreal islands in the sawgrass.

When viewed from above, the domes form a rough circle around a pond. “What I didn’t know the first time I explored a dome,” Tejeda recalls, “is that the water in the middle is an ‘alligator hole’—a place where they hang out in the winter when the rest of the Everglades is drying out.”

“[The cypress domes] are unlike anything I had ever seen,” Tejeda continues. “I like to equate them to a fairy tale—a little fairy dome where you just feel like there’s going to be something magical flying around.” No fairy sightings so far. “But I always see owls and alligators and snakes.”

She highly recommends joining a ranger-led slough slog to Double Dome or other cypress domes along the Main Park Road.

Notable activities and excursions

Driving: The Main Park Road runs through a variety of Everglades ecosystems—freshwater prairie, cypress forest, mangrove, and coastal marsh—on a 38-mile journey between the Coe Visitor Center and Flamingo. Along the way are sideroads to the Royal Palm trails, Historic Nike Missile Site, the Mahogany Hammock boardwalk trail, and West Lake Boardwalk.

Tours: Shark Valley offers two-hour narrated tram tours that stop at the Shark Valley Observation Tower. January through April, rangers lead Full Moon/New Moon Bike Rides and other activities.

Narrated boat tours depart from Flamingo and Everglades City. The latter is also homebase for private outfitters offering airboat tours, including Everglades City Airboat Tours. History buffs should visit the town’s small but interesting Museum of the Everglades.

Paddling: Flamingo and Everglades City bookend the Everglades’ ultimate kayak/canoe experience—the Wilderness Waterway—a 99-mile meander through mangroves and marshes with raised platform “chickee hut” campsites along the way. Everglades City is also the starting point for self-guided paddles along the Turner River Canoe Trails.

Best things to do for families

Bikes & boats: If keeping kids active is your mission, rent bikes and dodge snoozing alligators along the Shark Valley Tram Trail or explore Florida Bay and the mangroves by boat. Flamingo Adventures offers canoe and kayak rentals in two-hour increments, as well as full-day pontoon boat rentals.

Tours: Hop aboard a narrated boat tour of Florida Bay (from Flamingo Marina) or the Ten Thousand Islands (from Port Everglades); or feel the wind in your face during an adrenaline-pumping airboat ride from outfitters around the periphery of the park.

Junior Rangers: Offered in English, Spanish, and Haitian Creole, the park’s Junior Ranger Booklet features hands-on and self-guided activities including a scavenger hunt to spot wild animals that call the park home.

The park also participates in the Every Kid Outdoors program that provides vouchers for fourth graders and their families in the U.S. to visit the Everglades (and other national parks) free of charge for an entire year.

Where to stay

Hotels: Destroyed by a hurricane in 2005, Flaming Lodge is open again with new waterview rooms. Outside the park, the closest hotels are in Homestead and Doral (on the eastern edge of the park) and Everglades City, Marco Island, and Naples (beyond the western edge).

Houseboats: Modern, six-person, 42-foot houseboats at Flamingo Marina are equipped with a bathroom (and with shower), an indoor galley, outside grill, air conditioning, bedding, and fish-cutting tables.

Camping: Long Pine Key Campground is open November 1 to April 30. Flamingo Campground is open year-round. Both feature bath houses, dump stations, and potable water. Reservations highly recommended. For camping with the comforts of home, Winter Glamping Tents are available November-April in Flamingo.

Wilderness camping is allowed on certain ground or beach sites or “chickees” (elevated camping platforms). Most sites are accessible only by water and all require wilderness permits. Reservations at Recreation.gov.

Here’s what else you need to know

Access: Although the entire coast is open to exploration via watercraft, land-bound visitors have three options for entering the park: Everglades Homestead in the east, Shark Valley in the north, and Gulf Coast in the northwest.

When to visit: The dry season (December to March) is when most ranger programs and park concessions are available. This is also the best time to see wading birds and other wildlife. The wet season (April to November) is hot, humid, buggy, and has fewer park services.

“Many people prefer the winter for the terrific weather,” says ranger Allyson Gantt. “But each season offers something special. The shoulder seasons of fall and spring are less busy and may offer more solitude. Summer is especially great for boating and other water activities.”

Closures: A multi-year construction project to raise the level of the Tamiami Trail (U.S. 41) often features delays. Shark Valley parking is often full by 10 a.m. Check out the latest road, trail, and parking lot conditions, plus weather and prescribed burning alerts at the park’s conditions page. 

Fishing: Unless you’re under 16 or a Florida resident 65 or older, a state fishing license is required. Anglers casting south of Nine Mile Pond need a saltwater fishing license; from Nine Mile Pond northwards, a freshwater fishing license is mandatory.

Swimming: Swimming and snorkeling are forbidden anywhere inside the park.

Remote control aircraft: Drones, model airplanes, and similar unmanned aircraft are not allowed in the park.

Read before you go: Originally published in 1947, the definitive Everglades book remains The Everglades: River of Grass, by Florida writer and conservationist Marjory Stoneman Douglas.

Are pets allowed? 

Because of the park’s wildlife-rich environment—and the potential threat that it poses to both pets and wild animals—pets and service animals are only allowed in parking lots, on boats, and in the campgrounds and picnic areas at Flamingo and Long Pine Key.

How accessible is Everglades?

Among the accessible sites and services are seven trails, all four visitors centers, two developed campgrounds and one backcountry campsite, narrated boat tours, and the Shark Valley Tram Tour. Visitor information via TDD is available at (305) 242-7740.