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Reinhold Messner, Free Spirit: A Climber's Life
Known as one of history's greatest Himalayan mountaineers, Reinhold Messner was the first person to climb all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks, many of them solo. In this definitive work, he recalls his early climbs in the Alps, expeditions to the Himalaya, the first solo ascents, a trek across Antarctica, and numerous other adventures. 70 photos .
256 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 1991
About the author
Reinhold Messner
208 books217 followersReinhold Messner (born September 17, 1944) is an Italian mountaineer and explorer from South Tyrol, often cited as the greatest mountain climber of all time. He is renowned for making the first solo ascents of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen and for being the first climber to ascend all fourteen "eight-thousanders" (peaks over 8,000 metres above sea level). He is the author of at least 63 books (in German, 1970–2006), many of which have been translated into other languages.
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Displaying 1 - 21 of 21 reviews
May 13, 2021
Легендарен и много земен .Беше удоволствие да прочета за свободният път на Меснер!!!
October 28, 2016
In the sport of mountaineering, Reinhold Messner is widely regarded as the greatest ever. Not just because he succeeded in accomplishing a number of firsts (first Everest summit without oxygen, first Everest solo ascent, first to complete the 8000ers, etc), but also because his whole approach to climbing, from technical to ethical considerations, resulted in a paradigm shift. It is difficult and perhaps unfair to ascribe a community-wide change to a single individual; Messner certainly wasn't the first climber to subscribe to the ideas of 'light and fast'. However, the fortuitous combination of skill, strength, evolved equipment and pure luck came together in this legendary man from South Tyrol, whose accomplishments turned out to be ahead of his time. In fact, some of his climbs have never been repeated.
The reasons for Messner's undisputed success are partially explained in Free Spirit, a curiously short retrospective that progresses from highly specific youthful exuberance on rock in the Alps to pushing the limits of mind and body on icy Himalayan giants, finishing with a deeply introspective look at life as a survivor. Because above everything else, Messner was a survivor - his fanatical preparation and total commitment did see him through unbelievably difficult situations, but he also needed to get lucky, which he did more than once. What I find to be most amazing about this man, to whom I can relate because I am also a mountaineer, is that he came through experiences with his wits unscathed. It is well known that Messner's personality can be abrasive and that he broke many partnerships because of grudges or arguments, but at the end of the day Messner not only came down from the mountains in one piece, he detailed his experiences in presentations, writings and arguments that are as touching as they are persuasive. Free Spirit fits well in this canon.
The first part of the book is spent recalling, with a wealth of detail, the early climbs completed by the protagonist in his native region of Tyrol, at the borders of Italy and Austria, then in the Dolomites and finally in the western Alps. I admit I wasn't enthralled with the narrative here, as the steady accumulation of names describing peaks, routes and individuals crossing paths with young Reinhold became hard to keep track of, yet the importance of these exploits lies in the fact that they provided the foundation of skill and strength which was critical to his later ascents in the Himalayas and the Karakoram. Climbing increasingly difficult routes, first free and then solo became an all-consuming obsession to the point where Reinhold decided to sacrifice school and professional career in order to become the leading climber of his generation.
The turning point in Messner's life, and perhaps one of the key moments in the history of mountaineering, was the Nanga Parbat expedition of 1970. The tragic loss of his brother Gunther on the descent of a completely unknown face affected Reinhold just as much psychologically the amputation of six toes due to frostbite did physically. Since the loss of toes meant Messner was unable to climb at the same level on rock as before, he turned his energy to putting up new routes on the world's highest peaks "by fair means", meaning no supplemental oxygen and a minimum of equipment. The recounting of hair-raising ascents such as those of Manaslu (1972), Everest without oxygen (1978), K2 (1979) and the ultimate feat of mountaineering, Everest solo (1980) makes the second part of Free Spirit a more enjoyable and engaging read.
With the summit of Lhotse in 1986, his last 8000er, Messner gave up high altitude mountaineering, having accumulated a resume which firmly established him as a legend years before his retirement. However, he did not stop exploring, instead focusing his efforts on expeditions in parts of the world as varied as Antarctica, Greenland, the Arctic region between Canada and Siberia, the Gobi Desert, Tibet, South Georgia Islands and so on. I was looking forward to learning more about these adventures in this book, but as the end was approaching the chapters became smaller and the details fewer, signaling the author's desire to 'wrap it up'. There are some gems of Messner's ideals in the later chapters, philosophical musings on how one can justify the relevance of one's life, but they dwindle in number by the end, which is neither revelatory nor stunted.
For those looking to get a feeling for Messner, Free Spirit is a good introduction. Nevertheless, in order to really get into the mind of this truly larger than life figure, clearly one of the greatest adventurers of all times, one should consider continuing with The Naked Mountain, about the Nanga Parbat specter that dominated Messner's life since 1970, and The Crystal Horizon, which I consider the best mountaineering book ever written - because it describes the greatest mountaineering feat ever done, Everest solo. Once one gets to "know" Messner, one can never forget him.
The reasons for Messner's undisputed success are partially explained in Free Spirit, a curiously short retrospective that progresses from highly specific youthful exuberance on rock in the Alps to pushing the limits of mind and body on icy Himalayan giants, finishing with a deeply introspective look at life as a survivor. Because above everything else, Messner was a survivor - his fanatical preparation and total commitment did see him through unbelievably difficult situations, but he also needed to get lucky, which he did more than once. What I find to be most amazing about this man, to whom I can relate because I am also a mountaineer, is that he came through experiences with his wits unscathed. It is well known that Messner's personality can be abrasive and that he broke many partnerships because of grudges or arguments, but at the end of the day Messner not only came down from the mountains in one piece, he detailed his experiences in presentations, writings and arguments that are as touching as they are persuasive. Free Spirit fits well in this canon.
The first part of the book is spent recalling, with a wealth of detail, the early climbs completed by the protagonist in his native region of Tyrol, at the borders of Italy and Austria, then in the Dolomites and finally in the western Alps. I admit I wasn't enthralled with the narrative here, as the steady accumulation of names describing peaks, routes and individuals crossing paths with young Reinhold became hard to keep track of, yet the importance of these exploits lies in the fact that they provided the foundation of skill and strength which was critical to his later ascents in the Himalayas and the Karakoram. Climbing increasingly difficult routes, first free and then solo became an all-consuming obsession to the point where Reinhold decided to sacrifice school and professional career in order to become the leading climber of his generation.
The turning point in Messner's life, and perhaps one of the key moments in the history of mountaineering, was the Nanga Parbat expedition of 1970. The tragic loss of his brother Gunther on the descent of a completely unknown face affected Reinhold just as much psychologically the amputation of six toes due to frostbite did physically. Since the loss of toes meant Messner was unable to climb at the same level on rock as before, he turned his energy to putting up new routes on the world's highest peaks "by fair means", meaning no supplemental oxygen and a minimum of equipment. The recounting of hair-raising ascents such as those of Manaslu (1972), Everest without oxygen (1978), K2 (1979) and the ultimate feat of mountaineering, Everest solo (1980) makes the second part of Free Spirit a more enjoyable and engaging read.
With the summit of Lhotse in 1986, his last 8000er, Messner gave up high altitude mountaineering, having accumulated a resume which firmly established him as a legend years before his retirement. However, he did not stop exploring, instead focusing his efforts on expeditions in parts of the world as varied as Antarctica, Greenland, the Arctic region between Canada and Siberia, the Gobi Desert, Tibet, South Georgia Islands and so on. I was looking forward to learning more about these adventures in this book, but as the end was approaching the chapters became smaller and the details fewer, signaling the author's desire to 'wrap it up'. There are some gems of Messner's ideals in the later chapters, philosophical musings on how one can justify the relevance of one's life, but they dwindle in number by the end, which is neither revelatory nor stunted.
For those looking to get a feeling for Messner, Free Spirit is a good introduction. Nevertheless, in order to really get into the mind of this truly larger than life figure, clearly one of the greatest adventurers of all times, one should consider continuing with The Naked Mountain, about the Nanga Parbat specter that dominated Messner's life since 1970, and The Crystal Horizon, which I consider the best mountaineering book ever written - because it describes the greatest mountaineering feat ever done, Everest solo. Once one gets to "know" Messner, one can never forget him.
August 14, 2022
Да рискуваш да се върнеш променен. Или въобще да не се върнеш.
“Пустините и планините са катализатор за човещината ни. Чрез тях ние откриваме способнпстите и ограниченията си. Дивата притода е най-доброто огледало за душата ни.”
“Със съзнанието, че целта никога не е успехът или върхът, а опитът да се отиде до там.”
“Пустините и планините са катализатор за човещината ни. Чрез тях ние откриваме способнпстите и ограниченията си. Дивата притода е най-доброто огледало за душата ни.”
“Със съзнанието, че целта никога не е успехът или върхът, а опитът да се отиде до там.”
March 22, 2016
Reinhold Messner made the first successful summit of Mt Everest without supplemental oxygen. He also climbed the highest points on every continent, all mountains over 8000 meters, and had many first ascents on new routes. He spent decades climbing, beginning as a child in South Tyrol (Italy). He has also written numerous books and guides, restored a farmhouse in Tyrol, and opened several museums about mountain people, climbing, etc.
He also claims to not be foolhardy when it comes to climbing. I disagree. It is amazing that this man is still alive (though some of his climbing partners, including a brother, did not survive their expeditions). "Storm? Lets keep trying! I will keep trying alone! Let's split up!" Crazy talk. He seems to have mellowed a bit with age. He has also had at least 3 wives (3 are mentioned by name in this book), and I can imagine how being married to someone with such a one-track mind would be exhausting. He has at least 1 son and daughter. Even at the age of 70 he cannot stop traveling to remote locales, having adventures.
But the book. It is interesting, the writing is fine if the translation (from German) a bit awkward at times. (Cram full for crammed full, for example.) But what this book needs are a few maps, a glossary of climbing terms, and a glossary of people. So many names are thrown out there (are these people historically significant? some are for sure); so many climbing terms (tower, piton, bivy sac, buttress, rock slabs, friable, etc etc etc) thrown out on the assumption that the reader knows what they are.
So an interesting read, but I do not think I would like this man in person.
He also claims to not be foolhardy when it comes to climbing. I disagree. It is amazing that this man is still alive (though some of his climbing partners, including a brother, did not survive their expeditions). "Storm? Lets keep trying! I will keep trying alone! Let's split up!" Crazy talk. He seems to have mellowed a bit with age. He has also had at least 3 wives (3 are mentioned by name in this book), and I can imagine how being married to someone with such a one-track mind would be exhausting. He has at least 1 son and daughter. Even at the age of 70 he cannot stop traveling to remote locales, having adventures.
But the book. It is interesting, the writing is fine if the translation (from German) a bit awkward at times. (Cram full for crammed full, for example.) But what this book needs are a few maps, a glossary of climbing terms, and a glossary of people. So many names are thrown out there (are these people historically significant? some are for sure); so many climbing terms (tower, piton, bivy sac, buttress, rock slabs, friable, etc etc etc) thrown out on the assumption that the reader knows what they are.
So an interesting read, but I do not think I would like this man in person.
March 17, 2018
I have been an armchair mountaineer for most of my life and this book took me to more peaks than any other. A comprehensive history of Reinhold Messner's entire mountaineering and adventuring career, this book instantly transports you to the Dolomites of his home, the Himalaya of his dreams and the seven summits of every continent. I wouldn't be able to read this in the original German, but I thought the translation was great, expecially considering Jill Neate and James Heath needed to convey not only intense moments of life and death, but also technical mountaineering terms. Through his entire career, Messner's constant is his desire to climb, through hardship and tragedy, success and failure, he always finds his way back to his passion. Messner is wonderful with his descriptions of the mountains, but I thought his best writing comes when talking about pursuing his dreams, for example, "I saw that something in me had changed. An examination was not important, rather the identification with one's own goals. I had to give my life an unequivocal direction."
October 3, 2016
Четох я бавно, много много бавно като се опитвах да вниквам във всеки един детайл и момент, защото въображението ми е богато и успявах да си пресъздавам всичко, което Меснер е преживял. Успях да преживея толкова много благодарение на тази книга. Това беше едно много вълнуващо пътуване из върховете по света и след нея още повече уважавам този иначе доказал се инатлив тиролец, който вярвам нищо не може да му се опре. След нея съм още повече вдъхновен за високи изкачвания и истински приключения и я препоръчвам не само на хора, които имат отявен интерес към планината.
June 23, 2018
I truly enjoyed the book. Messner describes all his adventures as if you’re there. If you want to learn more about his challenges and his way of thinking while summiting the peaks for his Himalayan crown read the book.
April 25, 2023
Favorite parts:
• Setz dich den Zufall aus, übernimm Verantwortung, bleib dir selbst treu
• Mit Günther in der Höhle beim Wettersturz
• Ungewissheit und Erlösung
• Reinholds Unruhe und Zweifel vor der Droites Nordwand
• Reinholds Tränen nach der Droites Nordwand
• Reinhold versteht inder Langkofel Nordwand was "nie wieder" bedeutet
• Reinhold sieht sich als Stellvertreter für ungelebte Träume von Büromitarbeitern nach Dienstschluß
• Mountain Wilderness. Unverfälschte Landschaften erlauben eindeutige Erfahrungen.
• Messners Mauersturz eröffnet die vierte Lebensphase
• Setz dich den Zufall aus, übernimm Verantwortung, bleib dir selbst treu
• Mit Günther in der Höhle beim Wettersturz
• Ungewissheit und Erlösung
• Reinholds Unruhe und Zweifel vor der Droites Nordwand
• Reinholds Tränen nach der Droites Nordwand
• Reinhold versteht inder Langkofel Nordwand was "nie wieder" bedeutet
• Reinhold sieht sich als Stellvertreter für ungelebte Träume von Büromitarbeitern nach Dienstschluß
• Mountain Wilderness. Unverfälschte Landschaften erlauben eindeutige Erfahrungen.
• Messners Mauersturz eröffnet die vierte Lebensphase
April 24, 2019
Interessantissimo e dettagliato resoconto delle imprese di Messner, fa capire molto di più di tutto quello che ha affrontato in parete, in solitaria, sui ghiacciai.
Se posso fare un solo appunto, le foto sono un po' "sparpagliate" e spesso non combaciano con l'impresa che il capitolo ci riporta: avere delle foto specifiche per ogni impresa e magari il tracciato della via fatta da Messner avrebbe, a mio avviso, completato meglio il libro.
Se posso fare un solo appunto, le foto sono un po' "sparpagliate" e spesso non combaciano con l'impresa che il capitolo ci riporta: avere delle foto specifiche per ogni impresa e magari il tracciato della via fatta da Messner avrebbe, a mio avviso, completato meglio il libro.
December 24, 2022
"....че планинската култура съществува равноправно наред с водещата днес градска култура и че планините могат да разкажат много неща, дори и на онези хора, които никога не са се качвали на нещо по-високо от столчетата в бара....."
March 19, 2024
Достъпно написана, нешлифована, разказана честно и от сърце история от човека, който "обича да живее опасно". Разкази обхващащи всички експедиции, изкачвания и приключения на автора от най-ранното му детство продължаващи и до днес. Мотивираща книга
February 16, 2018
A struggle to read, but that was more due to the translation being awkward at times and seeming to jump around. I found it very interesting and the second to last chapter was very well done.
September 1, 2018
Messner ... badass
June 14, 2020
Desde la memoria
Si interesa la temática de las expediciones de montaña..., este libro es de los mejores.
Si interesa la temática de las expediciones de montaña..., este libro es de los mejores.
August 9, 2022
Prekvapila ;)
November 2, 2015
Reinhold Messner is the king of the world's mountains. Now half-retired to his Sigmundskron Castle near Bolzano in the South Tyrol, he is most famous for having made the first successful summit of Mount Everest, minus additional oxygen supply. He is the author of numerous books about mountain climbing, biographies about other famous mountaineers, and a book about his quest for the yeti or abominable snowman. Messner has been a businessman, an elected MEP (Member of the European Parliament) for the Italian Green Party, and established the Messner Mountain Museum. He is irascible, driven, impatient and has been the subject of controversy, but frankly does not give a hoot what anyone thinks. There have been seven famous summits and Messner has climbed all of them, and to the list added a summit of his own, which he claimed was more challenging. All of these mountains are on the following continents: Africa, Antarctica, Asia, Australia, Europe, North America and South America. Messner has been on many other expeditions all over the world.
This book is a compressed overview of Messner's lifetime achievements, told in his spare, direct writing style minus any dramatic overtones. His adventurous achievements do not warrant any hyperbole. The chapters are broken down chronologically starting with his early years growing up in Villnoss, a small community in the northern part of Italy, high in the southern Tyrol area. At the young age of five, Messner was taught how to climb by his father. And it is obvious that like high-achieving fencers, martial arts athletes, and ballet dancers, this early training frequently creates an advantage for later success. Add motivation, natural body attributes, an innate drive to conquer fear, and an exceptional mountaineer was born. Other than the first chapter which covers his idyllic childhood, the following twenty-nine chapters describe individual climbs, with details about equipment, terrain, weather, other climbers on the treks, and Messner's own emotions and thoughts. These climbs are not without loss and tragedy. He climbed Nanga Parbat five times. On one expedition he lost four toes on his left foot and two toes on his right, but there was the greater loss of his brother, Gunther. Messner returned on another expedition to try and find his brother's remains.
Mountain climbers, ice climbers, perhaps even weekend mountain hikers will be roused by these descriptions, but so will other readers. I am not a mountain climber, having had fleeting moments of interest, but not the nerve, endurance and mostly desire to participate. However Messner’s life time adventures provide insights about the why and how of climbing, and more importantly lots of vicarious thrills.
Reviewed by Sheryn Morris, Librarian, Central Library,
This book is a compressed overview of Messner's lifetime achievements, told in his spare, direct writing style minus any dramatic overtones. His adventurous achievements do not warrant any hyperbole. The chapters are broken down chronologically starting with his early years growing up in Villnoss, a small community in the northern part of Italy, high in the southern Tyrol area. At the young age of five, Messner was taught how to climb by his father. And it is obvious that like high-achieving fencers, martial arts athletes, and ballet dancers, this early training frequently creates an advantage for later success. Add motivation, natural body attributes, an innate drive to conquer fear, and an exceptional mountaineer was born. Other than the first chapter which covers his idyllic childhood, the following twenty-nine chapters describe individual climbs, with details about equipment, terrain, weather, other climbers on the treks, and Messner's own emotions and thoughts. These climbs are not without loss and tragedy. He climbed Nanga Parbat five times. On one expedition he lost four toes on his left foot and two toes on his right, but there was the greater loss of his brother, Gunther. Messner returned on another expedition to try and find his brother's remains.
Mountain climbers, ice climbers, perhaps even weekend mountain hikers will be roused by these descriptions, but so will other readers. I am not a mountain climber, having had fleeting moments of interest, but not the nerve, endurance and mostly desire to participate. However Messner’s life time adventures provide insights about the why and how of climbing, and more importantly lots of vicarious thrills.
Reviewed by Sheryn Morris, Librarian, Central Library,
October 2, 2007
Messner has had an incredible career of climbing hard. I was just a bit disappointed with this memoir, but it wasn't necessarily his fault.
The book was translated from German, and I think it lost A LOT of its potency. Climbs that would scare the bejesus out of many people sound like cake walks. I don't think he's trying to be overly strong, but his words just don't sound quite the same in English. Oh well.
The book was translated from German, and I think it lost A LOT of its potency. Climbs that would scare the bejesus out of many people sound like cake walks. I don't think he's trying to be overly strong, but his words just don't sound quite the same in English. Oh well.
June 28, 2013
I loved it! He's a pretty intense individual. This book really got into the mind of a true mountaineer. If you're into mountaineering and gritty mountain speak then this would be a good book for you!
May 25, 2016
I had to read this to try and understand Messner. I don't think I accomplished that. He is an icon among those who care anything about climbers but not an individual that is easy to relate to. I guess that I need to read more...
April 11, 2009
This is a classic of climbing literature. Messner is both an incredible climber and an incredible writer. This book will in inspire anyone one to go out and climb mountains.
November 8, 2010
Really amazing stories, just told in seemingly broken english.
Displaying 1 - 21 of 21 reviews